IN-HOUSE PUBLICATION OF THE LARGEST DIAMOND MINING COMPANY WINTER 2021

THE LARGEST POLISHED DIAMOND EVER PRODUCED IN RUSSIA EDITORIAL NOTE

Some think this has been the worst year ever, while others would regard it as just the strangest. Jewelers, diamond sellers and cutters told ALROSA how they got through 10 months of the pandemic and kept on working. ALROSA, despite the severe consequences of the coronavirus for the diamond industry, made a historic sale of the Spirit of the Rose and completed work on the largest diamond in its history. Read more on the pages of this issue. The central hero of the issue is a doctor. Yulia Kulakova, Head of the ALROSA Medical Center, introduces the reader to the company's medical infrastructure and describes the transformation of the corporate clinic, which left no stone unturned to protect the company’s employees and the local population of the diamond province from the novel coronavirus. Continuing the Map of Wonders art project, we present to you a diamond area of Europe which has many surprises in store apart from precious stones. We know that you have missed your travels. Join us for a walk through iconic jewelry locations in Japan. And for some people, distant journeys are part of the job, and no lockdown can stop them. ALROSA’s river workers, who spend several months on the main river Sof the North, the Lena, are all about life on the water. ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter

1 CONTENTS

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IN DETAIL

26 Opinion Challenge-2020 Market players sum up the results of the pandemic year

32 Interview Natural colored diamonds are the best objects to preserve the family’s wealth for the next generations One of the most respected experts on the 04 market Eden Rachminov about the rarest diamonds 38 Art project 56 Shine and mesmerize COMPANY

04 Fancy colored Pink record-breaker TERRITORY LIFESTYLE Momentous sale of ALROSA’s diamond 20 64 Interview 46 Interview 06 Cover story Calling on medics Hemmerle: “The Spectacle” Head of the ALROSA Medical Center, Yulia a house of traditions The largest diamond in ALROSA’s history Kulakova, about the medical center of the and innovations diamond mining company and the fight 12 Interview Yasmin and Christian Hemmerle about against COVID-19 in Siberia German family-owned high-jewelry Rules of the Trade house 52 Art project According to Head of the Client Policy Center of the ALROSA United Selling Organization, Map of Wonders 70 Jewelry travel Stanislav Martanus Diamond piece of Europe Japan: 20 Inner light 56 New generation treasure island Luminous Diamonds River journeys 78 Collection on the Red Carpet Our three heroes about work and life on the Jennifer Lopez chose jewelry with fluorescent ships that deliver equipment from the mainland Jewelry diamonds for the Red Carpet 32 to ALROSA's remote mining sites 70 stories 78

IN-HOUSE PUBLICATION OF THE LARGEST DIAMOND MINING COMPANY WINTER 2021 ALROSA IN-HOUSE Promotional Booklet Magazine Team: ­Evgeniya Kozenko, Pavel Publishing House Address: 3, Kostomarovsky Signed to For free PUBLICATION Prytkov, Yana Yushina, Diana Asonova lane, bld. 1A, Moscow 105120 print: distribution Editorial Office Address: Tel.: (495) 640-08-38; (495) 640-08-39 29.12.2020 24, Ozerkovskaya naberezhnaya, Head Editor: Polina Tyutina

building 1, Moscow Magazine designed with the participation Printed in accordance with the materials On-line version is ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter 115184 The picture on the cover: Diamond “The of MediaLine PH www.mlgr.ru provided in the Mediacolor Printing Office Publication available

Spectacle”, we i g ht : 100.94 carats Director General: Maksim Shlegel Printing Office Address: date: on the website THE LARGEST POLISHED DIAMOND EVER PRODUCED IN RUSSIA Tel.: +7 (903) 265-36-00 Photo by Evgeny Likhatskiy Project Manager: Karina Melkumyan 19, Signalny proezd, Moscow 12.01.2021 www.alrosa.ru 3 fancy colored

4 A RECORD HOLDER IN THE WORLD OF PINK

THE RUSSIAN FANCY VIVID PURPLE PINK DIAMOND “THE SPIRIT OF THE ROSE” AUCTIONED OFF AT SOTHEBY’S

FOR $26.6 MILLION AND SET A WORLD RECORD FOR A DIAMOND PRICE AS WELL AS PER DIAMOND CARAT IN FANCY VIVID PURPLE PINK.

The diamond’s weight is 14.83 carats, the cut is a modified oval, and the clarity is Internally Flawless. It is acknowledged as the largest diamond of its color ever to be offered in an auction. This unique diamond was created by the Moscow-based “Diamonds of ALROSA” diamond cutting division from a rough diamond weighing 27.85 carats. It was discovered at a placer mine in Yakutia beyond the Arctic Circle. The auction took place in Geneva in November 2020. The buyer’s identity has been withheld. The cost of one carat of the diamond was assessed at $1.8 million.

It is the largest vivid purple pink diamond that the Gemological Institute of America has ever evaluated. Diamonds of this size, color and clarity are extremely rare. It is the first diamond of this importance from Russia that has ever made it to an auction. It is also the first diamond of such a color that has been auctioned off, said

senior specialist of Sotheby’s Jewelry Department in Geneva Olivier Wagner, as quoted by RIA Novosti. He also ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter called this sale historic.

Photo: Andrey Rudakov / Bloomberg via Getty Images 5 cover story

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ALROSA PRESENTS THE LARGEST SPECTACLE DIAMOND EVER CUT IN RUSSIA

of Lightphoto: and EVGENY LIKHATSKIY, Facets DMITRY STOLYAREVICH

POLISHED DIAMOND PROFILE

Weight 100.94 carats Color D Clarity IF Shape Emerald Number of facets 57

ROUGH DIAMOND PROFILE

Extracted May 2016 from the Zarnitsa pipe, Yakutia

Weight 207.29 carats Color Colorless

Masters of the Moscow Cutting Division of the diamond mining company have cut an over 100-carat diamond which has won the highest ratings for color and clarity. The diamond

was named “The Spectacle” and became part of a diamond collection of the same name ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter dedicated to Russian ballet. 7 cover story

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Planning the rough diamond for the Spectacle

The Challenges of Marking and Cutting we managed to save more weight and “extract” Anatoly Kienko, Chief Specialist at the Diamond a little over 100 carats. Each cut shape has its own Selection, Expert Evaluation and Planning tolerances—limits for angle and proportion that we Department of “Diamonds of ALROSA”, has had need to adhere to. The cutter used these principles to deal with particularly large diamonds and managed to achieve the purest diamond before, but not with any of such high possible,” explains Anatoly Kienko. clarity and color as this one. This It took over a month to mark the big rough 207.29-carat crystal has proved to be diamond. As a result, in addition to the main colossal one of the most challenging in his diamond, eight others were cut from the 200-carat career. And here is why. crystal: six pear-shaped, one oval, and one round, the The geometry of the crystal’s facets largest weighing 6.05 carats. did not allow all its internal inclusions Special cutting discs and a setting were prepared INITIALLY, THE PROGRAM FOR to be seen. To look inside, experts had to to cut the Spectacle. Laser sawing of the diamond PLANNING AND MARKING THE cut “windows” all over the surface. carried high risks: because of the crystal’s high ROUGH DIAMOND CALCULATED The standard equipment used to scan a diamond internal stress, it could have cracked or burst. A 95-CARAT DIAMOND. BUT and all its inclusions and build a 3D model cannot “But our work always involves risk. Mechanical DURING PROCESSING WE accommodate a 200-carat stone. That is why the sawing would have taken us months, if not a year, and MANAGED TO PRESERVE MORE company purchased the latest foreign equipment we would have had to sacrifice a lot of the diamond’s WEIGHT AND “EXTRACT” for scanning particularly large stones. However, the weight. Meanwhile, laser sawing of one part or top A LITTLE OVER machine only recognized defects with saturated (diamond tip — ed.) took only an hour,” comments contours. The capacity of the lens did not capture Anatoly Kienko. The skill of the cutter played a huge the smallest inclusions. “After setting up the facet part: “Nikolay Mirskov worked on the Spectacle for windows, we studied the diamond from the inside, over a year and achieved a perfect result. To cut with a microscope, and marked the inclusions old- a colossally expensive diamond is also a mentally fashioned way, by hand with a marker,” says Anatoly demanding job, so, immediately after finishing work Kienko. on the Spectacle, Nikolay went on vacation.” C A R A T S . The main polished diamond created from the 100 207-carat crystal could have had a pear shape. “The The Rarest elongated shape of the diamond suggested two The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has potential cut options: a pear or an emerald. At last defined the 101-carat diamond as belonging to type IIa.

we chose the emerald option. Initially, the program Diamonds of the second type, IIa and IIb, contain few ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter for planning and marking the rough diamond nitrogen atoms in the crystal lattice, if any. Less than calculated a 95-carat cut stone. But during processing 2% of all the world’s diamonds fall into this category. 9 cover story

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LEGENDARY DEPOSIT

The crystal from which the Spectacle diamond was cut was extracted from the Zarnitsa kimberlite pipe in Yakutia. It was with the opening of this pipe that the history of Russian diamond mining and ALROSA began: Zarnitsa was the The GIA explains that Type IIa diamonds are the first primary diamond deposit found in the Soviet Union. most chemically pure and are extremely transparent. The Spectacle diamond is the same type as the famous diamonds of the British Crown Jewels: the Cullinan I, weighing 530.2 carats, and the Kohinoor, weighing 105.6 carats.

The Art of Glitter The 101-carat emerald-cut diamond “performs” in trio with the pink Spirit of the Rose and the honey-colored Firebird, named after two Russian ballets. Together they form the eponymous Spectacle collection of unique diamonds. The Spirit of the Rose (Vivid Purple Pink color, 14.83 carats) sold at Sotheby's in November 2020 for $26.6 The field was discovered by the outstanding geologist, Larisa Popugaeva. At the time of million (including taxes and the auction house’s fees) the discovery on August 21, 1954, Larisa was and set a record price per carat for a diamond of that 30 years old. She searched for diamonds using the color. method of another remarkable geologist, Natalia The Firebird (Vivid Yellow color, 20.69 carats) was Sarsadsky, who had proposed prospecting for diamonds by searching for pyropes, which are acquired by the famous Graff Jewelry House at the indicator minerals. end of 2019. Both colored crystals from which the diamonds were cut were found in Yakutia in 2017, at the alluvial deposits of ALROSA’s subsidiary, Almazy

Anabara. ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter The Spectacle 11 interview

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RULES OF THE TRADE

HEAD OF THE CLIENT POLICY CENTER OF THE ALROSA UNITED SELLING ORGANIZATION, STANISLAV MARTANUS, ON WHO MAKES A GOOD SALESPERSON AND HOW TO RAISE A TEAM.

Interviewer: Evgeniya Kozenko problems and needs, and has constant interaction with Photo: EVGENIY LIKHATSKIY the client. All of this is systematized in the CRM. In addition to the group of KAMs, the Client Policy Center ON CUSTOMER SERVICE AND ITS DEVELOPMENT also develops and grows the client service department. The employees ensure the timely updating of If you had to explain the meaning of your work in documents by clients and provide visa support and one phrase, what would you say? client service during their visits to the USO. A special We do everything for our clients. Starting from area is dedicated to new product development: clients the service that supports a trading session all the receive support in the formulation of a product way, essentially, to discussions for the sale of rough range that better meets their needs; one could say diamonds. Plus everything connected with setting they get modified boxes. Clear division of functions up the CRM system we manage in conjunction with is important, since the issues are resolved very IT specialists, along with the particular direction of differently—from buying diamonds to more everyday new product development (NPD). The Client Policy moments, like booking a viewing room, a cab from the Center also includes a department which works with airport, and helping people get around Moscow. In ALROSA’s foreign sales network, serving as a ‘single- addition, we are a single point of entry for our clients window’ for interaction between headquarters in to the company. Moscow and our colleagues working abroad. I understand that each company’s selection of What does customer service look like? Is there a diamonds will be more or less the same, since that separate employee assigned to each client? is how the earth makes them. So, is service the Naturally, every member of the ALROSA ALLIANCE is only thing that can foster company loyalty? supported by a key account manager (KAM), but they Broadly, yes, an understanding of the client and are not exclusive. A KAM manages several clients, service. It is an all-encompassing approach which and is de facto responsible for work with clients from involves understanding the client’s value chain and a large region. At the same time, each employee has which includes many elements, right down to the a very good understanding of the client's situation, system of consolidating information and managing interview

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Within the coming year. We are currently signing a What is the most important thing for you when contract with the contractor. We wanted to start this interviewing candidates? year, but the pandemic interrupted our plans. It depends on the position. There are positions which ALROSA has big initiatives planned, involving the require an analytical mindset, financial knowledge, digital exchange of contracts with diamond buyers and an understanding of corporate management, and so digital selection: having received the specifications, on. In the client group, commercial skills are most clients will be able to indicate their selections via their important, since the people there are responsible for personal accounts. Our neighbor, the sales support sales effectiveness. If we are talking about the customer department is working on this, and it is an important service department, language skills and the ability to step for the company. On the one hand, it will allow maintain a conversation are important, and, no matter the removal of the human factor, but on the other how good they are, a nice appearance, or at least a hand, it will speed up and simplify our work. readiness to bring it up to certain standards of corporate style. These are the faces of the company, after all. Was digital development spurred on by the coronavirus, or had you thought about it before? And what candidate qualities are a clear reason for We thought about this a long time ago. Since last rejection? year, under the leadership of the Strategic Design and Aggressiveness and being too quick to judge. I had one Analysis Center, the company has been implementing of the most ridiculous interviews of my life at ALROSA. its “Digital Twin” project—with the creation of digital An applicant for Key Account Manager claimed to representations, it allows us to display diamonds to the love sales. He laid out the theory perfectly—how to maximum number of potential buyers. work with clients, and with objections. I started to What developed during the pandemic was a system ask slightly more pointed questions about his past of remote diamond viewings. When a client cannot experience, and he changed completely: he turned red, visit for a showing, we can display rough diamonds raised his voice, even started to wag his finger. I asked using video and send photographs: our experts make him whether his emotionality interfered with his work. them with their own hands and eyes. We have already That surprised him, and he said he was not emotional shown the whole range of products in this way, from at all and did not tend to react to negatives. industrial to large diamonds, and the system has Of course, everyone’s character and temperament worked successfully. are different. But when working with clients there is a rule: you may disagree, but be polite and reasonable. Did you order it from somewhere? This is part of the profession. No, this is entirely our own development. The Client Policy Center has an employee responsible for the Do you have any special tricky questions that you development of new products. He is the absolute ask candidates? driver in this area, very passionate. He thought over There are no trick questions, no. I have a set of the product catalog and figured out how best to show questions that help me identify some or other qualities diamonds in photos and how to create a digital method in a person. For example, I may give a simple math of demonstration. When the coronavirus began, he and logic task, something resembling a brainteaser. databases. For us, it is important to the principle that “Of course, everyone’s character and was the first to take a smartphone in his hands to show Maybe a question such as: “How many people visit the we “offer to those who buy”: we have got to optimize temperament are different. But when clients rough diamonds: there was no other way—no shopping centers of Moscow in a weekend?” Obviously, our offerings of rough diamonds such that the boxes working with clients there is a rule: one would buy them blind. And then he thought about no one knows the answer—what is important here reach those who are truly interested in them. Just as in you may disagree, but be polite and a comprehensive system. All the way to the point is seeing how people think, how they orientate the grocery store: if someone wants to buy ingredients reasonable. This is part of the profession.” that he started to make paper cubes, like origami, to themselves. for borscht, there is no sense in offering them fish. understand what could be attached to a lamp to make Everyone has heard that salespeople are often told We have now passed the first stage of development it possible to photograph diamonds. It is now a fully “Sell me this pen!” in interviews, and 99% of the time, of the CRM system. It is already functional: we established process which will be developed together they interpret the question incorrectly. The point is not already have client managers, but we do not yet have We already allow clients to place orders for diamonds with the IT department. You can see how interestingly to think up something brilliant on the fly and convince convenient tools for interacting with buyers directly via a smartphone app, which is quick and convenient. it came about: it is not just a story of technical the interviewer to buy the pen. The point is to show via the electronic system. That is, we do not yet have I would like specifically to highlight the work of our development, but also of how every employee has their that you follow all the steps of sales: self presentation, a unified account system for rough and polished IT department. Clients can't praise too highly our place. identification of a need, presentation of the product, diamonds. That is the issue we are currently working personal account system, the sales platform dea.alrosa. work with objections, and so on, till the deal is closed. on. Clients will be able to upload information and ru. The pandemic has made it very clear that digital ON HOW TO FORM A TEAM… If you just ask a person “what stages of sales do you view the status of their purchases and shipments, technologies are the future, even in a business as know?”, you are likely to hear words learned from a including their history. That is, part of the interaction conservative as ours. But, of course, we'll continue to Do you have a young team? textbook, but this test shows it all in practice. will move online, which will be more convenient for have client managers for personal communication. We recruited the team above all by business qualities,

everyone: firstly, everything will be saved, so it will not by age. The majority are aged between 30–40. How do you understand if a person can deal with ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter not be possible to forget anything, and secondly, many When will the new functions of the system be Some are younger, some are older, but everyone is on stress? After all, the work is connected with business issues are now solved through smartphones. developed? the same wavelength. negativity. 15 interview

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You have to either start arguing, or ask questions that “A sense of ownership and create tension. For example, they tell you about their involvement is very important. achievements, and you suddenly ask: “And do you People should understand that they think that was the right decision?” A person will react are not just performers solving to that somehow. If it is obvious that the question has problems from above. If they can invest bothered them, but they do not show it and can find a part of themselves in a task, it is likely arguments while staying reasonable, then great, they to be better for both the result and the can go into commerce. It is very important to apologize development of the employee.” afterward and explain that the question was part of the interview, and not an attempt to hurt them.

…AND HOW TO MANAGE IT I would make some introduction, for example: “Look, these guys are working on a super-interesting Are you doing anything to build up the team, task, tell me, how is the work going?” They would or are you letting people develop their own tell us, everyone would listen with interest, because connections? it was something new, which might raise our overall I believe that in team building, it is important that effectiveness. You can also start with a funny story, everyone understands his or her role in our work, in and everyone will relax, which is conducive to the work of the whole company, and what we all do. It discussion of projects. is necessary to establish not only a vertical exchange of information, but also horizontal, between employees. Are there conflicts in the team? And so, in our work with our colleagues, we always try There are no personal conflicts, but of course there to find time, even if it is desperately short. We gather are emotions about work issues. There are occasional and discuss things together, including when a task outbursts. That is normal, we are all real-live involves only a certain group of people or even a single humans. What is important is how people behave employee. in conflict situations. We once had an argument I try to involve the team in many decisions. The between two employees, first in person, then in feeling of participation and engagement is important, messages, then other people got involved. I had to but even more important is participation and reprimand both: one for raising his voice and for engagement in the process—it is wonderful to see making the argument personal, the other that he when jointly made decisions are transformed into real took the bait and responded in kind. They both got it, results. It is motivating. People should understand made peace, and got on with their own work. And the that they are not just performers solving problems problem was quietly resolved. from above. If they can invest a part of themselves in a task, it is likely to be better for both the result and And what if only one party to the conflict is to the development of the employee. For that reason, it blame? is important to delegate tasks, and, if you delegate, to That does not happen. It is like with a failed marriage: accept the solutions offered by your employees. if it fell apart, both spouses were involved. It is the same here: instead of discussion, we get an uproar. Even if the decision is wrong? There were similar cases at my previous place of work If it is wrong, it is necessary to explain how to correct as well. An employee starts up, so you tell him: “Go it. And not just say, “It’s great, but you’ll have to redo it and drink some water, and we’ll talk in half an hour. all!” You need to explain correctly, so that the person But not right now.” A half hour goes by, we meet, and can fix the work. If you can see that the employee’s we can discuss things constructively. We are here to solution is normal and gives the necessary result, but work, not to fight. you yourself would have done it a little differently, then yes, you should accept it. Either you trust your Okay, no raising of voices. What else is not team, or why would you have the team? allowed? Arguing after a decision has already been made. At Are people willing to participate in collective the discussion stage, any employee can express his discussions? or her opinion, defend it, and argue for it. But when Now, yes. At first, they approached them very a decision is made, that is it. From that moment, we cautiously. Some had the outdated corporate culture work, and we do not rewind anything. If you were hanging over them, that they needed to “capitalize” silent at the meeting, and now you do not agree— on their own value, not share anything with their too bad, sorry. This approach encourages people to

colleagues, and do everything on their own. Others, on get involved, and not be “extras.” It is a different ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter the other hand, did not want to stand out: I won’t take matter if new circumstances arise—we are all acting, any special steps, and just do ordinary work. as economists love to say, within the bounds of 17 interview

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rationality: we do not know everything 100%. It is “It is not enough to be just a trader— important to be flexible. you need to combine market And sabotaging decisions is not allowed. If a task understanding, analysis is set, it must be done. Excuses like “I know for sure and strategic foresight with that it’s unrealistic,” or even better, “I know the conversational science”. client will say no, so I won’t even suggest it” are immediately cut short. The person does not even want to try, although the result could be anything.

ON WORKING WITH CLIENTS Do you often receive suggestions from clients about improving your sales system? You came from another industry—does your As a rule, these are suggestions for extending work previous work differ significantly from work in with a particular client, rather than for the system as the diamond market? a whole. That is logical: why would one participant In the grand scheme of things, no. But there is an suggest improvements for all? But very valuable important difference: in my previous work, which propositions do arise—during the pandemic, we was connected with the sale of railway wheels, it had over 200 Zoom calls with clients and constantly was necessary to be thoroughly acquainted with discussed possibilities for business development, technical nuances. It was impossible, for example, mutual support, and the organization of our work. to offer Georgians wheels for German railways. We are often asked, and not only by clients, why But here, it is more important to understand the we have such a large list of clients. If we agreed to specifics of the client’s business, the industry good terms with just a few large companies, it would as a whole, and the mindset of a certain person. be more convenient and less work. On the one hand, The diamond industry is very close and friendly, that would certainly be more convenient, but on the everyone knows everyone. Clients willingly discuss other, our company would have no insurance that their needs, and they are open to a dialog, they do way. If you only have a few clients, it means that each not try to trick you. But without knowledge of the of them is responsible for a significant amount of product, you could never manage. In the beginning, sales, and the loss of even one will be a huge hit to it was not easy to sort it all out, but thanks to my your sales. And in the world, as we see, there is always So, a new office with a large number of Alrosa “Here is your box. You have to sell it for so much, and expert colleagues from the USO, it all came together. something happening: the coronavirus, trade wars, viewing areas is not being built for nothing? anything more than that, you can keep for yourself.” And agreements are very strong in the diamond protests, or something else. It is not being built. It is an existing building. We are I sold the whole box. Of course, the buyers were industry: a verbal assurance is often stronger than a just renovating it. The new building—it will open in probably won over by the fact that I was so small. contract. Even in the difficult period of the pandemic Is it difficult to constantly maintain balance 2022—has quite a different concept: separate floors there were only a few incidents where clients went under such conditions? are allocated for viewing rooms, with a separate floor – Did you to study to become a trader? back on their word and appealed to the lack of a That is our job. The principle is simple: first of all, for the client recreation area; there are two large – An economist. My father has always been, and contract. we think of the company and its interests, and, lounge areas, a multicultural kitchen… A storage remains, an authority for me. And he, like all my ultimately, about the 30,000 people working in system for clients’ belongings will be available, so family, my mother, my grandfather, is inseparably Our market is multicultural, with people of Yakutia. But we are focused on real demand, and don’t that they can bring their own equipment for viewing connected with Moscow State University and with different countries, cultures and religions. Was it give any preferences to anyone. We support clients and evaluation. Naturally, the level of client service economics: they graduated from the faculty of hard to get used to that? who work responsibly. will be greatly improved—the current building is very economics, and then taught there. I watched my I worked in international sales in my old job, so I old, you can’t walk around in it. father, and I always wanted to be like him. That is am used to the situation. Although there was some Continuing the theme of force majeure, do normal for a boy. His example was quite enough for embarrassment, for example, when I mixed up which you think there will be live viewings of rough BONUS: ON HOW TO BECOME A TRADER me. I never had the desire to become, for example, a restaurants in Moscow to suggest to whom. diamonds at all, or will they become obsolete with cosmonaut. time? – Is this the kind of work you dreamed about So I graduated with a bachelor’s degree, then a Do you often have to deal with complaints from I think viewings are here to stay after Covid. People doing as a child? master’s degree in economics from Moscow State customers? will still travel. It is not just the rough diamond – Absolutely. Without exaggeration: working with University in the field of strategic planning and Of course. It is an integral, and perhaps normal viewing, but a lifestyle: working with diamonds, clients, in sales, interacting with people, I have forecasting and worked in analysis for a long time. part of our work. We sometimes make mistakes, and meeting suppliers and colleagues. Everything always been drawn to it. But at some point I realized I did not have enough due to human error. It happens that the buyer feels happens within a fairly compact period: 5 days in a “life.” I wanted more active work, not just making their needs are not completely satisfied or that one trading session, with up to 15–20 companies every – Do you remember how you earned your first presentations, although that is important too. So, of our competitors is better for them. There was day. The clients meet one another, interact, and share money? when the opportunity arose to leave analysis and a particularly hot period at the beginning of the their thoughts. It is possible that the structure of – I was 7. My relatives were traders: they bought enter sales, I jumped at the chance. But my previous pandemic, with a lot of emotion, which is quite visits will change: experts will come to the viewings, goods in Turkey and resold them in Russia. One day, experience really helps me in my current position, understandable. Only in April-May did the rhetoric while the top people will come more for the talking. while staying with them on holiday, I asked them if where it is necessary to blend an understanding of

begin to return to normal. But on the whole, around But nevertheless, the format will remain the same. I could trade. Well, what can you trust a child with? the market, analysis, and strategic prediction with ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter 80% of our clients are constructive and understand Chances are, only those who buy small quantities will They gave me small amulets to ward off the evil conversational science. It is not enough to be “just a our actions. make fewer trips. eye—pendants, charms, and badges. They told me: trader.” 19 inner light

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INNER RADIANCE EARRINGS

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FLUORESCENCE ISN’T ONLY MAGICAL AND BEAUTIFUL TO OBSERVE, BUT ALSO SERVES AS A UNIQUE SIGNATURE TO THE NATURAL ORIGINS OF YOUR DIAMOND.

The pop diva appeared at the November music carbon crystallization process. In some diamonds, event in a silver Balmain evening top and skirt set, under specific conditions, nitrogen atoms form which was complemented by Luminous Diamonds a sufficiently high number of N3 centers—perfect earrings and rings. She published her photos triangular patterns surrounding a vacancy—that from the ceremony on her Instagram page with interact with a UV light by transforming the 133 million followers. The photo gathered over 3 diamond’s hue into a soft blue glow. Fluorescence million likes, and more than 40 publications wrote isn’t only magical and beautiful to observe, but also about the singer’s attention to the new Luminous serves as a unique signature to the natural origins Diamonds brand. of your diamond.

Color of Nature Collection The Luminous Diamonds brand belongs to ALROSA Inspired by a woman’s inner light and strength, diamond mining company. The main role in the the pieces are designed with the shape of a free- jewelry series is given to rare fluorescent natural form hexagon as a central motif to celebrate the diamonds that acquire a mesmerizing blue glow individualistic spirit of each woman. The offerings in ultraviolet light. Diamonds with a fluorescence range from diamonds that can be worn as an level from medium to very strong are specially everyday luxury, to couture jewelry pieces, each selected for Luminous Diamonds jewelry. Less than carrying an intimate, hidden message, held in a 6% of the world’s diamonds reach the company’s central vortex of light, revealed only when the color and intensity requirements to show up in wearer chooses. Luminous Diamonds pieces. Luminous Diamonds products are created A fluorescent diamond’s dazzling inner glow in cooperation with such leading jewelry comes from the presence of specific elements manufacturers as A. Link & Co., SDC Designs, and naturally formed within a diamond during the M. Suresh.

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More about Luminous Diamonds

From left to right: From left to right: Be Inspired Be True ring, pendant, Inner Be Inspired Passion earrings Earrings

Luminous brand heroines embodiment of its slogan: independent, successful, Elliott Sailors, plus-size model Denise Bidot, and model dare us all to stand out by sharing our inner selves,” In support of the collection, the brand launched the without losing strength of spirit or inner radiance in and photographer Marian Moneymaker, who has had a says Rebecca Foerster, president of Alrosa USA. Greatness Is Made Under Pressure campaign, linking all circumstances of life: WNBA (Women’s National successful photography career for over 60 years. “Greatness in people, like diamonds, is made under

it with one of the most famous hits of the British Basketball Association) athlete Skylar Diggins-Smith, “These diamonds are stunning, luminous, and pressure. When a woman follows her own inner light, ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter band Queen—Under Pressure. The heroes of the attorney and travel writer Cynthia Andrew, hip-hop make a statement. They reflect the way modern others see it. Our diamonds are an enduring reminder campaign are women whose lives can serve as the violinist Ezinma, defender of gender-fluid people women wear confidence like a rare jewel, and they of this light.” 25 оpinion

26 CHALLENGE-2020 DIAMOND AND JEWELRY MARKET PLAYERS ARE SPECULATING ABOUT WHAT THIS INSANE YEAR DEPRIVED US OF AND WHAT IT GIFTED TO THE INDUSTRY. LIZA BORZAYA DESIGNER AND CREATOR OF THE JEWELRY BRAND LIZA BORZAYA HIGH JEWELLERY, MOSCOW, RUSSIA

First, I want to tell you about the main trend of the year for us: since foreign markets were closed, we turned our attention to the domestic market, where we were not so widely represented—we mainly worked with private clients. This step has already brought unexpectedly pleasant results—for example, we have signed a contract with the Bosco di Ciliegi group of companies and are now selling our jewelry at Vesna Shopping Center. We strive to see advantages in any situation, therefore the restrictions imposed by the pandemic were taken as a guide to action. In addition, I finally decided that I would continue to work in the high price segment and create complex piece jewelry as I had done so far. Previously I had wondered about launching a parallel simplified line that could be sold in stores. Now I have completely abandoned this idea. I will continue to only deal with high jewelry, exclusive and personalized products, while continuing direct contact with clients. The truth is that our regular customers did not go anywhere during the pandemic, and we continued to work with them as before, and therefore did not feel any financial losses. But if we had relied on the mid-price segment, on sales in stores that have been empty for ELLIOT TANNENBAUM several months, I think things would be difficult for us now. SENIOR PRINCIPAL OF LEO SCHACHTER DIAMOND GROUP, In my opinion, this globalization, when everything is simplified for the sake of NEW YORK, US increasing turnover, will lose relevance. The market is already oversaturated with simplified “below-par” products. I spoke with my colleagues: those who were focused on personal work with clients went through this year without suffering big losses in the It was a year of challenge and of opportunity. As we learned in 2008–2009, we should same way—this category of clients will continue to buy as they bought before. However, never waste a good crisis. The lockdown periods during the pandemic offered a good those brands that depended on store turnover, unfortunately, nosedived. opportunity to reassess the future and make the major changes a large business doesn't Of course, we had to change many plans: we were preparing for exhibitions in Las often see or have the chance to rescale during its day-to-day activity. Fortunately, I think Vegas and Hong Kong, and, as we know, everything was canceled, and contracts were that it also reminded us that diamonds and diamond jewelry gift giving are still an postponed to next year. important mainstay in our society. If we talk about the near future, I think that travel around the world will still be I believe the crisis is making parts of the pipeline more efficient but, more importantly, limited: we are locked in our countries for now. And what will happen in a few years is more forward-looking. still difficult to say. It helped highlight the importance of brands and branding. Many people are now talking about good prospects for online sales, but in my price This year allowed us to do a major corporate reorganization, one very much different segment it is unlikely to somehow affect the influx of customers: everything here is from the one we originally had in mind. based on direct communication with them. Such expensive jewelry is usually not bought What about our clients’ preferences, we have noticed a continued uptick in bridal and online: people first have to get to know the brand well, see its jewelry somewhere in ear studs. at exhibitions, and examine it up close. Maybe after that, when they have already And about trade shows. It's hard to tell, missing only one year shouldn't be too impactful. established a personal relationship with the brand, they purchase remotely. But the However, I do think trade shows are still important, if only for the commingling of the online sales thing is more likely to target more accessible and recognizable brands. industry and exchange of ideas and information during them that it causes.

Those who were focused on personal work with clients went through this year ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter without suffering big losses in the same way: this category of clients will “As we learned in 2008–2009, we should never waste a good crisis” continue to buy as they bought before”. 27 оpinion

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OTTO JAKOB DAVE MELESKI DESIGNER AND CREATOR OF THE JEWELRY BRAND OTTO PRESIDENT & CEO OF RICHLINE GROUP, NEW YORK, US JAKOB, KARLSRUHE, GERMANY

Except for a two-week interruption to allow me to recover from my own Covid-19 2020 gives meaning to the phrase “never say never”. As someone who has managed infection, my atelier has remained open and worked at its usual capacity throughout the through many different “events” over the last 38 years, the pandemic let me know pandemic. The imposed social and geographical seclusion, while certainly inconvenient you never know what is around the corner. It was faster, and more instantly damaging on the personal level, was of little practical change to our usual business model. On the than any previous business event I have seen. As we now approach the year end, the plus side, the liberated time and energy went to fuel new projects. challenges of health and safety of our employees are still there, although managed. The As for the future, it is still much too early in the pandemic to be able to predict the true challenges of the supply chain as a result of the pandemic are now showing in full force, scale of its consequences. I stand by the expectation I expressed in our spring interview, and to that end, I look forward to a new year and start in 2021. that it will help to separate the wheat from the chaff in the extremely oversaturated The jewelry market, like most consumer product categories, has moved very quickly jewelry market. into a virtual space out of necessity. I believe this will only accelerate in the future and demand will be driven accordingly through these tools. Following from the above, virtual communication has accelerated, with tools being developed for jewelry presentation and sale through the supply chain, and ultimately online to the consumer... this has been accelerated by 3 to 5 years in my opinion. We began to change back in March, and have continued throughout the year as we learned more and more as the calendar moved along. We have adjusted every aspect of our business already as we turn to 2021.

Our retail customers have focused less on newness in 2020 as they all looked to generate business from what they have in place... 2021 should bring a return to newer products in assortments as whatever “new normal” is established in consumer shopping. Certainly online-shopping has been extremely important for our retail customers as they have relied on this during the shutdown of stores. In our other businesses, we have seen more investment demand in precious metals through our coin business.

I think trade shows have become an unnecessary cost during the pandemic for some EVE GOLDBERG, channels of supply. There will be some need to still have traditional shows, but the fast CO-OWNER OF WILLIAM GOLDBERG DIAMOND JEWELRY forward of virtual selling as a result of the pandemic will forever change the old structure of trade shows... they will need to find a better way to provide opportunity for buyers and HOUSE, NEW YORK, US sellers to get together in the future.

This year required a tremendous amount of positivity and commitment to our staff and company. Our people are part of the engine that makes everything work every day. Like so many businesses, we had to be nimble and quick to adjust. And we wanted our partners and clients all over the world to know we would support their businesses in any

way we could. ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter Our business has always operated with a handshake, trust and looking people in the eye, and that has not changed. We were already growing our social media platforms 29 оpinion

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and email marketing, but this year has made us all realize the need to adapt and change and be forward-thinking. We put a lot of emphasis into social media, especially for our proprietary ASHOKA diamond brand, by doing some new and fresh and modern looks. These platforms give us the creativity to present our collections and designs immediately and engage with people all over the world. The pandemic has certainly influenced our customer’s preferences. Much like in the fashion industry, our clients are looking for something they can wear every day. Most people are not dressing up and going out to fancy parties, so understated diamond jewelry is a definite trend. Our ASHOKA diamond brand has been growing significantly worldwide, especially in the engagement ring and diamond band category. Large, important stones are also selling, and people are seeing this as an opportunity to put their money into bigger diamonds. Diamond studs, pendants and diamond chains are becoming a staple. Why not feel special and good every day by wearing something wonderful, even with a T-shirt and a pair of jeans! Diamonds are perfect for Zoom! How has the closure of trade shows affected the jewelry market? I am sure it has ELENA ESAULOVA affected the jewelry market in a big way. For us, trade shows are not an essential part FOUNDER OF THE E2J JEWELRY BRAND, COLLECTOR, of our business. We have great relationships with our clients and let them know about new items regularly, through social media and email blasts that we send out. We also MOSCOW, RUSSIA have a B2B platform where our partners worldwide can view our collection and express interest in buying specific pieces. Undoubtedly, it was a year of unique opportunities—we were able to stop, look around, breathe, and analyze what we have done and without the usual pressure to be “faster, “The pandemic has certainly influenced our customer’s preferences. M u c h better and stronger” to choose the optimum path of development. like in the fashion industry, our clients are looking for something they can As for the general situation on the professional market, in some areas it nosedived— wear every day” following the weakening of purchasing power, but young brands and designers, for example, got the unique chance to show themselves and “shoot”. The closure of borders and difficulties with international logistics have greatly reduced the amount of goods on the shelves of small shops (especially those relying on online trade), and this forced many of them to take a closer look at what local craftsmen offer. And then the question arose for these craftspeople how ready they are to get the seller and the consumer interested. Of course, in the current situation, it is difficult to plan for the long term, and it makes us think very carefully about every decision, every step. After all, any wrong consideration may be irreversible. This year gave me an opportunity to get myself together and hold my first personal exhibition in a Moscow gallery. There was time and the desire to make a new full- fledged limited collection, which gave me a new round of development, moreover, both creative and personal—the lockdown redistributed finances and made it possible to allocate funds for what was previously postponed “for later”. If we talk about my customers, it seems to me that thanks to the opportunity to stop and turn off the external “visual noise”, many of them became bolder and more interesting when choosing jewelry. Now they choose precisely for themselves: that is, not in order to please the tastes of their environment, but in order to smile at their own SCOTT SAUNDERS reflection in the mirror. SENIOR VP-BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT AT LONDON I think we will be able to talk in a few months about how the closure of borders, and jewelry exhibitions in particular, affected the market in general, when we see collections JEWELERS, NEW YORK, US that designers and jewelry brands made during the period of total shutdown of borders. The fashion business is already showing the first results, and the turn of the jewelry 2020 has been very challenging for all retailers both on the internal side and the segment is not far off. consumer side. Without gatherings and trade shows it has changed everything. Retail And we continue to observe an increasing trend of transition to online trade, and to environments have also been forced to change and adapt. Digital marketing and online displays. I think this direction will be developed in the jewelry industry as well as e-commerce have proven to be a very vital and critical part of any business today. We in the fashion industry. Many brands are already moving away from the format of large have plans for a website re-design and have dedicated more resources to e-commerce. presentations towards private displays and personal meetings, and in the future, this Without trade shows it has been difficult to see new ideas and styles in person. Virtual process will only gain momentum. trade shows did not work so far. Meetings have obviously been stopped and the trade

show was a big part of our routine to bring product to our clients. I am sure changes will “Many brands are already moving away from the format of large ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter need to be made as we go forward because everyone will still have great concerns about presentations towards private displays and personal meetings, and in future, travel and crowds for a long time to come. this process will only gain momentum” 31 interview

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EDEN RACHMINOV IS ONE OF THE MOST RESPECTED EXPERTS ON THE MARKET OF NATURAL COLORED DIAMONDS THROUGHOUT THE CONTINENTS. THE HISTORY OF RACHMINOV DIAMONDS 1891 LTD. STARTED GENERATIONS AGO. WE ASKED EDEN ABOUT INVESTING IN COLORED DIAMONDS, MISCONCEPTIONS ABOUT THESE MINERALS AND HIGH TECHNOLOGIES BEING WAITED BY THE INDUSTRY. EDEN RACHMINOV “NATURAL COLORED DIAMONDS ARE THE BEST OBJECTS TO PRESERVE

THE FAMILY’S WEALTH FOR THE NEXT What is the secret of a family's inexhaustible to the next generation, the young generation needs passion for diamonds? How do previous to actively “take” the diamond profession and not GENERATIONS” generations transfer their experience to the wait for it to be “given”. The older generation can new ones? Did you visit cutting and polishing financially support and open the doors to younger facilities in your childhood? generation but, in order to learn and maintain I was never asked this question; I think it’s growth, it’s up to your personal skills. a fascinating subject. As a child, I spent countless hours underneath my father’s table in the office, How often do you recut polished diamonds after looking for tiny diamonds that got lost in the buying them? And what are the reasons? carpet. As an adolescent, I wanted to count, weigh Most of the polished goods that we buy go through and sort thousands of carats during my school a re-cutting process in our factory. My team and holidays. At the age of 21, I couldn’t wait to go to I have spent years developing a unique cut for the factory and learn how to polish. And by the age fancy color diamonds to maximize their beauty. of 23 I made my first solo-buying trip to Belgium Because fancy color diamonds are cut “free-style”

and bought a blue diamond without asking my and most manufacturers care mostly about yield, ALROSA 2020 # 2 (12) Winter father’s approval. As opposed to the common belief, most polished diamonds on the market do not reach the diamond business cannot really be handed over a high aesthetic level in my opinion. In addition, 33 interview

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our clients are very fastidious when it comes to certain external defects which are mostly left on the stone, for economic reasons. We try to eliminate all of them. “Fancy color diamonds usually enter a jewellery collection after the You have an opportunity to analyze a long fourth or fifth colorless diamond has family experience. How have clients’ taste been purchased. It is connected with and preferences in sizes, colors, clarity the high dollar value of this category” characteristics of diamonds have changed over the decades? Until the 1980’s fancy color diamonds were considered to be freaks of nature and very few people understood how rare and beautiful they You conduct business in North America, were. Prices were determined only by the seller as Europe and Asia. How do clients’ choices differ there was no real market for these gems and traders depending on geography? Are Europeans didn’t know for how much a similar stone was sold interested in colored diamonds? for on the other side of the globe. In the mid-1990s, Fancy color diamonds are in demand all over the communication was improved, and the “Vivid” world. The European continent was among the first grade was introduced by the GIA for the first time, places these diamonds found their way into nobles’ which created a bigger color hierarchy and a new jewelry collections. These days, most clients are pricing structure. Jewellers also started using fancy Asians who shop for fancy color diamonds all over color diamonds more often and diamond lovers the world. started collecting them. In fact, only when you have critical mass of the What colored diamond would you call the same product (such as watches and clothes) trends most interesting and magnificent from the and fashion are created. Fancy color diamonds are standpoint of a scientist? too scarce and valuable to create change in prefer- Scientifically, Chameleon diamonds are the most ences over the years, a factor that eliminates trends intriguing as they change colors when exposed to and fashion for this collectable item. very high temperatures or just being in the dark for 24 hours. Till this day no one can explain this Which colored diamonds become investments? phenomenon. It is an interesting subject; I don’t think I am able to give a comprehensive review on this complex Can you define the most significant differences subject in a few words. If I had to generalize of colored diamonds from different territories— without going into the exceptions, I would say the Australia, Canada, Africa, Russia? following: The changes are quite obvious in certain colors. Firstly, all fancy color diamonds are rarer than Yellow fancy color from Canada has a distinct colorless diamonds. Secondly, all mining operations warm undertone under direct sunlight, which is will disappear in 60 years and the only place you quite different from the yellows that are found in will be able to find diamonds will be the second- Russia. The famous pink diamonds from Argyle hand market. (Australia), on the other hand, are quite similar to As such, any fancy color diamond is considered the new pink diamonds found in the Karpinskogo to be a good investment. It is only a matter of how pipe in Arkhangelsk in Russia. In Sierra Leone, long you are willing to wait before your investment you can find vivid yellows from the Zimmi area— will mature. The quality of the “investment” is their color and inclusions characteristics and lack measured according to the beauty of the stone, the of fluorescence are quite easy to detect. They rarity of the diamond and its price. From the pure are also all Type Ia. Other than that, most fancy investment point of view, they are the best objects color diamonds in the world are not really visually to preserve the family’s wealth for the next genera- detectable. tions. Having said all of that, remember that fancy color diamonds are first of all objects of beauty of You pay a lot of attention to educational issues which we celebrate life with, before they are an in the diamond industry. What are the main investment. gaps in clients’ and consumers’ understanding and accessing colored diamonds? In your opinion, must a seller invest in his customer’s

education? “The main reason I publish my books is to bring some ALROSA 2020 # 2 (12) Winter The main reason I publish my books is to bring clarity to the market, untangle many myths and give some clarity to the market, debunk many myths and sellers some real talking points” 35 interview

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professionals and auction houses. It is the most acceptable organization in the market after the “Fancy color diamonds GIA. In the last few years the FCRF has been led by are too scarce and valuable Miri Chen and my involvement is minor. to create change in preferences over the years, a factor that What high technologies do you consider the eliminates trends and fashion for this fluorescence could improve the appearance of most important for developing the market of collectable item” a diamond with a green color. natural colored diamonds? I would like to see a technology helping us to There are many more misconceptions and much identify the geographical source of a diamond after more information about the pricing structure it has been polished and a technology that could of fancy color diamonds. I strongly recommend reveal the prehistorical age of the diamond. These reading professional literature and educating two points of data could romanticize the diamond give sellers some real talking points. Historically, yourself with real facts from a reputable source. and increase its appreciation. essential information about fancy color diamonds The FCRF is one of them, for example. didn’t pass in an orderly manner from the wholesale How is the pandemic affecting the natural market, downstream. In colorless diamonds, the By the way, about the Fancy Color Research colored diamonds market? GIA took upon itself to educate the supply chain Foundation, FCRF. Why have you devoted the The first thing the pandemic did, it kept high net but when it came to fancy color diamonds there project to specifically colored diamonds? How worth individuals at home and prevented them was a void. Now, the gaps in knowledge are slowly do you see the prospects for the project? from celebrating their wealth. They couldn’t narrowing down, however there are still many Many years ago, I came to the conclusion that the celebrate anniversaries, go on luxury vacations, misconceptions that disrupt the market and market needed a non-profit organization that could shop and so on. For some of them, the need arose to sellers must educate themselves and their clients. cultivate appreciation for these rare diamonds. invest their unspent money in multimillion-dollar Because there was an educational void concerning One that could grant access to research-based fancy color diamonds jewelry—a fact that had some to fancy color diamonds, many still give too much facts about the fancy color market, price trends, impact on demand during this period. Secondly, importance to gemmological characteristics on rarity data and more. This endeavor would not it created a logistics freeze worldwide; diamonds the report, and wrongly implement the colorless have been so successful without the help of large could not be exported or shipped out from suppliers diamond value methodology on fancy color fancy color diamond companies donating their to buyers and simple transactions took five to six diamonds. However, they forget that colorless data on a regular basis. Among the FCRF members months to conclude. Thirdly, diamond mining diamonds get their value from less (less color, less you will find all the large jewelry brands, mining stopped completely for several months and I have fluorescence, fewer inclusions…) and fancy color Type IIa, D color stones, will be granted companies, large fancy color manufacturers and a feeling we will experience a shortage of fancy diamonds get it mainly from the visual elements. c. a premium because the lack of nitrogen even investment firms. The FCRF publishes the color diamonds during 2021. Here are some examples: gives an extra “whiteness” to a D color. In pink Fancy Color Diamond Index, rarity data, auction diamonds, Type IIa diamonds can also be found, analysis and many other essential services for How has the closure of trade shows affected Clarity in colorless diamonds has a great however, the lack of nitrogen doesn’t have the jewelry market? In your opinion, must a. impact on price. A rationale supported by a positive impact on the diamond’s appearance. traditional formats of professional trade shows a price list. In fancy color diamonds, stones with Still, many sellers love to mention this fact to give change because of the situation that arose in rare colors, whether they have a VS2 or IF clarity, a feeling their pink diamond is better than a Type 2020? will have the same price. Generally speaking, the Ia pink diamond. Because auction houses love to The fact that the industry didn’t have trade impact of clarity on price in fancy color is symbolic mention this characteristic in their catalogs, as if shows this year affected companies that have as long as it doesn’t affect the appearance. it’s a premium quality, many collectors worldwide their turnover based on random sales. Diamond insist on having Type IIa pink diamonds and are companies that have long lasting relations with Polish and Symmetry grade in colorless even willing to overpay for one. Tragically, most their client base maintained a decent turnover this b. diamonds has a significant impact on price. Type IIa pink diamonds are less transparent and year, despite the fact we didn’t have trade shows. On the other hand, fancy color diamonds are only suffer from a warm undertone which means they polished to achieve high color uniformity and are less attractive. reinforcement of color. In the wholesale market, a rare color diamond that has a “Very good” or Fluorescence in colorless diamond, even “Good” polish and symmetry grade will be sold at d. in the lower levels, may have a visual almost the same price as an Excellent graded stone. impact and will attract a discount. In fancy color diamonds, blue fluorescence, up to ‘medium’, will not have a visual effect and should not impact the price. Because there are many different fluorescent “When the fluorescent color matches the colors, such as green, orange, yellow and so on, color of the stone it could grant a premium when the fluorescent color matches the color of the as it reinforces the color of the stone it could attract a premium as it reinforces diamond under a direct sunlight” ALROSA 2020 # 2 (12) Winter the color of the diamond under direct sunlight. For example: Strong Yellow or Strong Green 37 art project

38 Alexander Konkov / TASS photo chronicle and mesmerize

“Fall in love with the moment, don't hold back” Maya Plisetskaya

Great Soviet and Russian ballet dancer

Great dancers are often referred to as the diamonds of the ballet scene. We, in turn, never cease to find inspiration in the art of ballet. ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter

39 art project

40 Alamy Legion-Media /

“Always take the stage with the whole story in your mind. Keep it there until

the Rudolf end” Nureyev

Soviet, British and French ballet dancer, one of the most famous dancers in the world

“The Spectacle” Diamond color: D (colorless) weight: 100.94 carats cut: emerald ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter

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42 Alexander Makarov / RIA Novosti

“The essence of all art is to have

pleasure in giving pleasure” Mikhail Baryshnikov

Soviet and American ballet dancer, one of the most well-known modern dancers

color: Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink weight: 0.62 carats cut: pear

цвет: желтый; Intense Yellow огранка: «овал» вес: 7,90 карата

color: Fancy Brown-Pink weight: 16.53 carats cut: pear ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter

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44 Vladimir Vyatkin / RIA Novosti

“I don’t understand how it is possible to enact love if you have never truly f eltNatalia it!” Osipova Russian ballet dancer, principal ballerina with the Royal Ballet in London

color: Fancy Deep Yellow weight: 31.1 carats cut: cushion ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter

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CALLING ON MEDICS

Healthcare workers have become a symbol of fighting global disease. The pandemic has drawn the attention of humanity to their working conditions, self-sacrifice, and many other problems in this sphere not related to COVID. As a town-forming enterprise, ALROSA has a medical complex of its own in the diamond valley of Siberia. It often remains outside the information agenda of the diamond mining company. However, ALROSA’s doctors have been fighting for the health and well-being of tens of thousands of diamond miners and inhabitants of the region for many months, alongside their colleagues from across the globe. We spoke to Yulia Kulakova, Head of the ALROSA Medical Center, to find out how doctors work in the North.

photo: GRIGORY IFTODIY

The epidemic and ALROSA’s Group at home and provides preventive through COVID and gained immunity to doctors treatment. Finally, we are responsible for infection. When did the ALROSA Medical Center the creation and support of the strategic join the fight against COVID-19? What medicine stockpile meant for treating How would you evaluate the accuracy medical procedures and kinds of work coronavirus. of test results? Many people say does it undertake? that PCR tests often provide false Since February 2020, the Medical Center Does the Medical Center conduct negatives or false positives. has had to urgently reorganize its work COVID tests on its own? It depends on the laboratory and to take the new reality into account. The Medical Center, alongside with state reagents used. ALROSA has purchased ALROSA purchased two mini-laboratories medical organization of the district, mini-laboratories for the Medical for Medical Center which complete up to has formed 14 brigades with a goal of Center. Their capacity is not that high, 300 tests per day. From the beginning biomaterial selection for PCR testing. One but their responsiveness is. Additional of the pandemic to September 2020, our brigade can serve up to 25 addresses per antibody blood tests are definitely going laboratories conducted 15,500 tests. day. Our medics also test people who have to increase diagnosis accuracy, and the We created a unified testing center, and arrived by plane, are on a business trip, percentage of false positive results will its functions include planning of testing or in a risk group at all industrial sites. be minimized. volumes, sample selection, test results Tests are distributed between laboratories analysis and creating a database for them. of the ALROSA Medical Center, Moscow, How has your staff reacted to COVID- Our employees have also formed mobile and state hospitals in Mirny and Yakutsk. related mobilization? brigades in order to evacuate patients from Almost every resident of the Mirny Our employees reorganized their remote industrial sites of the company. district has been tested for COVID-19 at work methods quickly. They began For example, back in October, the brigades least once. to provide care delivery at home, evacuated almost 200 infected rotating We started doing antibody level collect biomaterials, and conduct shift workers from Nakyn. blood tests in October. For now, we only PCR diagnostics, as well as to provide At the moment, the Medical Center take blood samples and send them to outpatient and in-isolation ward provides services to 7 in-house a laboratory in Moscow. However, we are coronavirus treatment. Our medics have observation facilities with over 800 also working on the issue of conducting been working for 6–8 hours a day in beds in total and 5 isolation wards tests here in Mirny for the sake of protective suits, goggles and respirators.

of the company with a bed capacity responsiveness. Antibody testing is It is indeed exhausting, but nobody is ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter of over 400. In addition, the Medical really important, especially now, since complaining, and everyone understands Center helps employees of the ALROSA there is a group of people who have come what is going on. 47 interview

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Testing at the Medical Center

WHAT THE ALROSA MEDICAL CENTER IS

There are 28 health facilities on ALROSA’s industrial sites. Pre-shift and pre-trip medical Above and left: analysis check-ups, emergency medical services and laboratories in the Medical employees’ vaccinations are performed there Center on a daily basis, as well as the provision of a daytime inpatient facility. Sanitary-hygiene control of working meal and welfare facilities is also a part of their service.

Health facilities in underground mines and some of the main industrial sites 1. work round the clock.

The second activity block of the Medical Center is sanatorium resort therapy and 2. medical rehabilitation of the ALROSA Group’s employees. DURING THE PANDEMIC, GENERAL PRACTITIONERS Overall, more than 20,000 of the HAVE BEEN WORKING IN ALROSA Group’s employees get medical 3. care at the Medical Center. OBSERVATION FACILITIES AND ISOLATION WARDS. DENTISTS, The Medical Center also provides paid What was the hardest thing for you NURSE PRACTITIONERS AND services to physical and legal entities and your colleagues over these last few 4. that are not a part of the ALROSA months? NURSES TAKE SAMPLES FOR Group. Constant stress due to tight schedules and CORONAVIRUS AND PERFORM high levels of responsibility. MEDICAL EVACUATION.

Have you experienced a lack of certain specialists, resources or equipment Despite the strict measures (such as dynamics been different from the rest we would be able to protect ourselves anti-epidemic measures as strict as to comply with safety rules? How during epidemic peaks? observation of every single worker of the world? from the infection completely. We had possible every day. We have the same seriously do people take it? The lack of medics – general rotating in, three-time testing, anti- The infection made it to Mirny district the aim of buying more time in order to goal: to control the process and to avoid They take it seriously in most cases. practitioners, infectologists, and lab epidemic measures in the village itself), of Yakutia, where ALROSA mines prepare the healthcare system to work an excessive avalanching pressure so There is probably not a single person workers – is being especially felt. The the virus entered the rotation village diamonds, much later than to central with a large number of patients: we everyone who requires medical help can left whose acquaintances have not been company has entered into an agreement anyway. Based on the experience of other regions of the country. The first cases prepared wards, ventilators and oxygen receive it. infected. People do have an interest, with Yakutsk State University in order subsurface users, as well as our own, we appeared in May 2020. The pandemic concentrators, and created a supply of not only in statistics, but in information to attract more attending physicians, realized how fast the virus is spreading in even affected the district at different medicines. Have you been through both on the disease itself, its activators, and 30 young specialists have fought rotation villages. First of all, it’s caused by periods: it started in Mirny and made it We never thought we would need coronavirus waves? treatment methods and interpreting test the pandemic alongside their more a high concentration of people living on to Udachny and Aykhal only in autumn. to increase the number of infection- According to my examination, we have results. The company employees often experienced colleagues and shown a great site and other characteristics of rotation What has been stopping the virus? Strict associated beds from 20 to 250. However, had a controllable increase in the number ask me questions in WhatsApp chats, and professional competence. Unfortunately, shifts, such as buses, canteens, and pre- disease spreading prevention measures: several months later, there were 200 of infection cases due to the virus I see neither skepticism nor sarcasm, but it is not easy to counter-balance the lack shift medical check offices. We managed testing of all visitors from other regions patients with the COVID pneumonia making it to our district much later and concern with their health and the health of epidemiologists. to suppress the Nakyn outbreak in a short of Russia and other countries, as well as at Mirny Central District Hospital the very strict measures we have taken. of their loved ones in these questions. time frame. people returning from business trips, department. The hospital was fully The temporary sharp spike has happened When we began to provide workers In October, there were over a hundred began in spring. We quarantined every prepared for that turn of events, and only in the Nakyn rotating village in with preventive treatment, the number cases of infection per 800 people at The epidemic and inhabitants of person with acute respiratory infection now we can treat our patients, even in October. of refusals was very low. This year, we

Nyurbinsk GOK. Why did this happen the Diamond Province in Russia symptoms and searched for people who difficult cases. had a record-breaking flu vaccination ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter despite every person being in a two- How has the epidemic developed in had been in contact with those infected. At the moment, with COVID widely How would you evaluate the reaction turnout, which confirms the high level of week quarantine prior to the shift? Yakutia and Mirny district? Have the We were not cherishing illusions that spread in our towns, we are keeping of locals to the epidemic and the need people’s responsibility for their health. 49 interview

50

Left: health post of the Medical Center in the Vilyuis expedition

strategy for 2023. We along with our independent auditors agreed that our Center’s health facilities provide excessive medical services at the expense of main goals. If we optimize work processes in health facilities, we will be able to create an occupational therapy service and outpatient clinic departments. The medical information system will be improved in accordance with the strategy as well. We plan to focus on increasing the quality of candidate selection during the recruitment process, the quality of medical check- ups, regulating occupational disease levels, as well as on the audit of staff health via preventive check-ups and medical screenings. The strategy is yet to be refined, with new coronavirus-related THE MEDICAL CENTER challenges taken into account. It is STAFF CONTINUES TO absolutely necessary for us to develop What advice would you give to PERFORM PRE-SHIFT a preventative disinfection department ALROSA employees and others? A lot AND PRE-TRIP MEDICAL within the company, enhance the of things were said about the new CHECK-UPS OF ALROSA emergency medical aid on industrial coronavirus since spring 2020, but it EMPLOYEES AND sites and create a laboratory complex flared up in autumn, both in Russia based at the already-functioning PROVIDES EMERGENCY ALROSA MEDICAL CENTER STAFF and the rest of the world. MEDICAL CARE. laboratory.

I cannot say anything new. I encourage As the head of the ALROSA Medical everyone to have patience and limit Center, what would you like to visiting public places with large change there? numbers of people. To comply with doctors paramedic workers junior medical staff members work I would like the Medical Center to basic behavior rules in public places: at the Medical Center become better at several levels— wear a medical mask and keep a social increase the quality and range of distance, and wash your hands often. 38 162 19 medical aid and the convenience To reinforce immunity with vitamins. of service provision. We absolutely There’s no way to invent simpler and The future of the ALROSA Telemedical services have been provided a non-professional, even if it’s your best during the pandemic, when the medical have to reinforce our diagnostic base, more effective methods of combating Medical Center to diamond mining company employees friend or a neighbor. staff is overwhelmed. implement new and effective medical the infection until systemic vaccine ALROSA has included the via a smartphone app for 2 years, and In fact, doctors don’t prescribe rehabilitation methods and invite implementation. opportunity of a remote doctor they have been rather popular (services treatment during online consultations. There has been some talk regarding skilled professionals to work at the appointment into the health are provided by the diamond mining They only let patients know what to the restructuring of the Medical Medical Center. To do this, we need to Everyone wants to know when it’s insurance for employees. Do you company’s partner and not the ALROSA pay attention to, what institution and Center. Why are these changes create comfortable working conditions going to be over. Do you have any consider this way of providing Medical Center – ed.). Of course, it’s specialists to contact, what tests to get, necessary and what goals are they for our specialists, for example,

answers? medical services a workaround not the same as an actual doctor's how to correct diet and lifestyle. This aimed at? provide them with a respectable salary ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter The pandemic can only be stopped once during the epidemic, when visiting appointment. However, it’s better to is why patients can address any health In February 2020, ALROSA approved and quality equipment. That is very and for all by mass vaccination. public places is not advised? consult a trained specialist rather than issue. Telemedicine is a great help the corporate healthcare development important. 51 art project

52 MAP OF WONDERS

Arkhangelsk Region: a Diamond Piece of Europe In the last issue, we introduced you to the jewels of Yakutia: wherever you go, you will find diamonds, and wherever you can’t go, there are mammoth bones, and wherever you turn, a fox will pass by.

As we have already explained, ALROSA’s staff work on both sides of the Arctic Circle. This time we will show you the European diamondiferous area. A hundred kilometers away from Arkhangelsk, ALROSA’s subsidiary, Severalmaz, mines diamonds known for their variety of shades, from green to orange. On the map, we have marked two active diamond quarries, although a total of 6 kimberlite pipes were found at the Lomonosov deposit.

From the Lomonosov deposit you can reach the White Sea, the inner sea of the Arctic Ocean. And on the other side, beyond the Arctic Circle is Lapland. By the way, to enjoy the main wonder of the north, the aurora borealis, we don’t need to bother Santa: at our deposit, workers can see the Northern Lights from the fall.

VIKTORIA MEZENOVA

visual artist ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter

53 54 project art

COD BELUGA Cod has been the main fish of coast dwellers In Arkhangelsk region at Beluga Cape you since ancient times. And the residents of can watch white whales from the land or Arkhangelsk region are even called cod eaters. even hear their songs without disturbing Salted, dried cod saved people from hunger them from a boat on the open sea. Pink diamond during the hardest war years. A monument was The white whales were nicknamed the 12.13 carat erected in Murmansk (the neighboring region “canaries of the sea” due to the variety 2018 to Arkhangelsk) in its honor. It contains a rich of sounds they make. Researchers have Lomonosov deposit composition of vitamins and minerals and is counted about 50 sounds of the white whale, used in cooking all around the world. Among including whistling, squealing, chirping, other things, cod is considered a non-waste screeching, piercing screams, roaring and product—all its parts are used. others. In addition, white whales use body language (slapping on water with tail fins), and even mimicry. In addition to screaming, white whales make clicks in the ultrasonic range. Green diamond KHIBINY—MINERALOGICAL PARADISE 11.81 carat Khibiny is an ideal place for environmental tourism, 2017 and in particular botanical excursions. As the Lomonosov deposit portal goarctic.ru explains, even during a one-day excursion to the Khibiny Mountains, despite their SEVERODVINSK— low altitude, you can see how the main natural THE BIRTHPLACE OF SHIPS belts of European Russia—taiga, birch forests Severodvinsk was founded as a satellite and mountain tundras—replace each other. This city of the largest shipbuilding complex diversity is explained by its location beyond in the country. Here, submarines, surface the Arctic Circle, which creates high mountain ships and offshore drilling platforms are conditions even with small mountains. Khibiny is a Brown diamond built and repaired. “world record-breaker by number of mineral species 11.2 carat known within a single geological site: almost 600 2020 minerals have been found in the Khibiny Mountains, Lomonosov deposit while all science now knows just under 5,500 of them, so more than 10% of the total world mineral diversity is found in just this one mountain range! REINDEER The second record of Khibiny is the number of new We talked about reindeer and their role minerals, i.e. those that have been discovered here in the ecosystem in the first series of our for the first time—there are 126 of them today. Map of Wonders art project. In Arkhangelsk region, the wild reindeer population is very small. In the forests of this region, there The national flag of Sámi (Sámi are only 1000–1300 animals, according to people flag), a nation living in zoologists. Lappland POLAR BEAR The largest ground predator on the planet. Its body weight can reach 800 kg. The polar bear is covered with insulated fur, which grows even on the pads of its paws, to PLESETSK COSMODROME protect it from frozen surfaces and ensure It is used for scientific, applied, defense its grip on ice. Females with small cubs are and commercial launches of unmanned very caring toward orphaned cubs: there are spacecraft. In 2019, there were 8 launches known cases when they have adopted and into space from Plesetsk. fed them together with their own. Arctic Circle

55 *Sources: National Geographic, Moscow Zoo, goarctic.ru. ALROSA # 2 (12) Winter 2021 new generation

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River navigation is an important way to deliver fuel, equipment, and other vital cargo to support northern diamond mining during the summer. This story is about the people who tirelessly journey up and down the Lena, a mighty river in the heart of Siberia, and its tributaries, shipping essential goods to ALROSA sites. All of them are employed by the ALROSA-Lena shipping company.

text: ELLA ZAKHAROVA photo: GRIGORIY IFTODIY JOURNEYSRiver ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter

57 new generation

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RiverMake or sea? Me – River Choose: South or North? – North Cruise ship or fuel barge? – Fuel barge, because I’m sailing on a barge right now New Year’s Eve or the first day of summer? – New Year’s Eve

Konstantin SAVELYEV, I have plenty of experience now, but not. It all influences how long the voyage is and one electrical technician. We all do turns running off to see our families. I’m at the beginning of my career, I sometimes going to be. But on average, it takes us 9–10 our best to stick by our boat. married, and have two little girls, one 31, second mate and assistant ship mechanic on the got into misadventures that made my blood days, though some other vessels make the My work day starts at half past year apart. The youngest is turning four tugboat Nelkan run cold. Like what happened during my same journey in two weeks. three in the morning. My watch is at in November, and the oldest is turning first navigation season. The wind had been Once in Lensk, we head for the pier, four, and then at eight, the mechanic five in January. It’s hard, of course, but I was born in the Republic of blowing in one direction the whole day, where all the shipping operations are takes over for his own 4-hour watch. you get used to it. When navigation stops Buryatia. I went to school there, and and then suddenly changed at night. Our officially recorded and all the paperwork Then it’s the captain’s turn, and then in winter, I spend all the time I have with after graduating, I moved to Ust-Kut boat broke its moorings and began to drift is done. Then, we go upstream, where we mine again, at 4 p.m. my family, to make up for my absences. to go to river college and train as away, carried by a strong current. I didn’t take on cargo again before sailing back to The hardest part is getting up for We try to travel a little, to the nearest a navigator. My cousin went to the same notice it right away, even though it was my Ust-Kut. So it’s a kind of circle. We go back the night watch: 6 a.m. is when sleep big city: Krasnoyarsk, Novosibirsk, or college 10 years before me. But I wouldn’t watch. And I didn’t really have a good grasp and forth between these two locations is the sweetest. I used to really struggle Irkutsk. We’ve been taking our kids with say that he influenced my choice of of what I needed to do. I had to go wake up throughout the navigation season. Our with steering the boat properly, but I’m us since they were infants. My little girls career. I was just genuinely interested. the first mate, and he walked me through it. tugboat closes the season too: while the rest past that now. love these trips. Long story short, I became a student, I definitely got quite a scare! of the fleet has already stopped operating, As for the best part, it’s the work I’m not planning to leave the river then three years later I found work and We are the ones to open navigation. we go on working until early November. itself. I think everyone feels content any time soon, not for the next few settled down in Ust-Kut. It’s the tugboat that leads the rest of the I’ve been sailing on the Nelkan for when they have something to do. I also years. On the contrary, I want to grow I did not become an ALROSA fleet out of the boat yard. Then, we join 5 years. I’m quite happy here, so I don’t love those moments when we pass by professionally, qualify as first mate... employee straight away. Before I got the shipping operation too: we carry cargo have any plans to leave for another my home. It makes me feel all warm and And then, if I do everything right, a job aboard the Nelkan in 2015, I sailed between Ust-Kut and Lensk. The journey vessel. We have a small but close-knit fuzzy, even though I might not be able to I might even become captain. There are

on several different ships. In 2020, I’m from Ust-Kut to Lensk really depends on crew, just 10 people: the captain, the actually drop by my house. exams every spring, overseen by a special ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter approaching the end of my thirteenth the weather, whether there is fog or strong mechanic, me, the third mate, the cook, Our boat stops in Ust-Kut for 24 committee; and I’ll also have to prepare season. wind, and on whether the vessel is loaded or the crewman, three engine mechanics, hours to load up cargo. We take and submit paperwork. 59 new generation

60 Фото: Александр Шин

from midnight to 4 a.m. I wake up at about 10, check the engine room, then go up to the wheelhouse and go through documents. After the watch, it’s break time, then dinner from 5.30 to 6.30 p.m. We also get all kinds of regular drills, and there’s a lot of paperwork to fill out, too. If the night watch tires you out, the main thing is to get lots of sleep. But we This is my second marriage. I have four do have some bonding activities: we watch kids: two daughters, aged 16 and 14, and movies and play games, like Monopoly, two sons, aged 8 and 5. We are on good chess, or cards. And there’s all sorts of terms; I see my kids all the time, and we routine stuff you have to take care of. You have videochats on WhatsApp when I am Dmitry FROLOV, don’t really notice how the time between away on my ship. But that’s when the watches flies by. signal is good; Lensk and Ust-Kut have 42, captain of the lake tanker Alexei Pakhomov We have 9 people on our crew. The pretty decent Internet, but it gets spotty in core of the crew has had a solid working smaller villages, so then we just call each I was born in Kirensk, Irkutsk Region, relationship for years. Me, my first mate, other. Before I sail off, I fill a flash drive to a community of river navigators, and I still and my second mate—we’ve worked bursting point with family photos. I browse live here today. My parents took river trips together, and received promotions together, them sometimes in the evenings, and get together: my father was a ship mechanic, since 2004. There are also two engine nostalgic: for our vacations, or for how tiny and my mother was an onboard cook. Most mechanics and a crewman that are now my kids once were. They grow up so fast. of my relatives on my father’s side, aunts, starting their third season aboard our ship. Blink, and you’ll miss it. uncles and everyone, are also in shipping. Our entire crew loves fishing. Everyone My wife has gotten used to my I went to school in my home town, to has their own spinning rod, and we fish schedule, of course; I don’t have to explain Professional Lyceum No. 3. every chance we get. After we catch the things to her. She used to sail too, to I’ve worked aboard this ship since fish, we dry it, cure it, marinate it, and fry support herself when she was a student. She 2000. I started out as third mate, became it. Sometimes, we even make smoked fish. was a sailor for 6 years, so she knows what second mate in 2006, then first mate. I was There are good spots for catching pike our work is like. made captain in 2018. This makes for an downstream: huge fish, up to 12–13 kilos. entire career aboard one ship. And when you go upstream, you can catch We carry cargo up the Lena, to Ust- Arctic cisco, broad whitefish, muksun, Kut, that is the port of Osetrovo, and down sturgeon, or nelma. the Lena too, usually to Lensk. We also go The best part of my job is knowing that up and down the little side rivers like the I have people waiting for me: I love coming Viluy, Aldan, or Vitim. We make deliveries back home and bringing gifts to my kids... to diamond mining sites, delivering light oil But then the navigation season starts, and products, that is gasoline, aircraft kerosene, you get restless; when the ice breaks, you and summer and winter diesel fuel. start yearning to return to the river. Are When navigation is active, from May to things hard sometimes? Sure, as in any October, we don’t get any days off. We just other profession. I don’t let them bother take a good long break for the rest of the me; we cross these bridges when we come year. Then, in February, we go out again, to them. for navigation prep and winter repairs. We Two years ago, my wife and I bought get the ship ready for navigation all the way a house with a mortgage, so in between through April: we inspect the engines, the voyages, I mostly see to that. We also go steering systems, and all the documents. on family vacations to the hot springs This way, we make sure that nothing breaks in Severobaikalsk, to Lake Baikal, or to down or goes wrong when we are en route. Irkutsk, where we shop, go to the movies— Our regular round trip, from Ust-Kut unwind, you know. We live a six-hour Make Me Choose: to Lensk and then from Lensk back to drive away from Lake Baikal, if the road River or sea? – River, where you can see land Osetrovo, takes 10 days. If we have to go to conditions are good. And Severobaikalsk is South or North? – North Prilensk, though, or further downstream, or even closer than that. So we just get in the Cruise ship or fuel barge? – Cruise ship past the Arctic Circle, then the journey can car, and off we go! New Year’s Eve or the first day of summer? – ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter take up to four weeks. New Year’s Eve We take turns steering the ship: me, my first mate, and my second mate. My 61 watches are from noon to 4 p.m. and then new generation

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Make Me Choose: River or sea? – River, I’m used to it South or North? – North Cruise ship or fuel barge? – Cruise ship New Year’s Eve or the first day of summer? – The first day of summer

A l i n a Y A N U S ,

22, crew member on the motor vessel Yuri Arbatsky

I am an alumna of the river college in Ust-Kut, my home town. I studied to become a water engineer. I wanted to get a job as soon as possible, so I could support myself, because I am one of a large family, and my parents struggle with all of us. I went sailing both as part of my training and afterwards, but I’d already set my mind on quitting, because it’s hard to spend six months every year away which I usually spend in the crew’s common area, from your family. But then, the coronavirus hit, and which also doubles as a dining room. There’s a TV set I figured that it would be a bad call to just throw a job in there, and you can read a book, too. Almost all crew away during such a difficult time. So I stayed. members have their own personal cabins, but they are How did I get a job on this ship? A guy I knew very small, so we tend to relax in the common area. worked for ALROSA, so he said, “Come to us, we’ll I’m used to always having someone nearby. Once find you a job!” And so they did. This year is our ship’s the navigation was over, the first thing I did was visit first voyage after a major refit. The crew is really my family in Ust-Kut: my mom, and then my aunt and young, and it’s our captain’s first year captaining, uncle. And the next day, I found myself at my own too. We’ve traveled from Ust-Kut to Lensk and back, place, all alone for the first time. It felt so odd, and carrying fuel. boring. I’m used to working all the time, and having There are a lot of good things about this job: nothing to do eats me alive. you have a roof over your head, and get nice meals, Right now, I live in Irkutsk. I will have to look for and don’t have to worry about money: you receive work, because there’s a university degree to think your wages and instantly save them, because there’s about, and I’ll need money for that. So I’ll definitely simply nowhere to spend money when you’re out on sail again next season. As for what I am going to the river. study, I haven’t decided yet. Law, maybe. I’m also Physically, a sailor’s work is not very considering construction or engineering, since it’s challenging. I think it’s much harder to sit in the related to my water engineer qualification. same place all day, like a cashier, for example. My

working hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. I’m in charge ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter of cleaning: I scrub the deck, the utility rooms, the portholes. I do the laundry too. Then I get free time, 63 interview

64 HEM A HOUSE

OF TRADITIONS MER AND INNOVATIONS LE:

The history of Hemmerle, the German jewelry house, goes back 127 years and 4 generations, with a radical change in design, completely transforming its aesthetics. We talked to Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle, the fourth generation, about how their creativity has changed over time, what its beginnings were and what the house is like today.

H I S T O R Y OF THE HOUSE ALROSA: Frau and Herr Hemmerle, your brand has always had a family history behind it. So you of all people should know the answer to the question on how to combine business and family Brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle 1 8 9 3 take over an established goldsmiths life? specializing in medals and orders, CHRISTIAN HEMMERLE: Yes, Hemmerle has been an independent bring their own style and ideas to the family company for 127 years—today the brand is headed by my wife business, renamed Hemmerle. Yasmin and me, and my parents, Stefan and Sylveli. Work and family life are really closely intertwined, and there are many advantages to The Hemmerle brothers become 1895 official suppliers to the Royal Bavarian it: it's an opportunity to learn from each other, and everyone brings Court, producing royal regalia, such as something different to the common cause. Interaction, discussion The sophistication of colour is integral to our aesthetic orders and medals. and community are an important part of our ethos. and we didn’t want to limit ourselves by focusing solely on classical materials in our aim to complement all the Hemmerle win a coveted prize for 1900 the Bishop’s Cross in enamel and A LROSA: How do you work on jewelry—do you also create it different hues of a gemstone, utilizing its full natural gemstone at the World Exhibition in together? potential. We use unconventional materials not just because Paris. CHRISTIAN HEMMERLE: As a family business, we have a very they are intrinsically different – it links back to our collaborative and discursive design process. When conceiving of philosophy where we strive to give each and every stone Opening of the Hemmerle store in new jewels, dynamic exchange allows us to maintain a consistent the perfect home. We study, research and sample a material 1904 Munich on Maximilianstrasse 14—a modern boutique and workshops that design thread through all our creations. We also have a deliberately for as long as necessary to achieve a desired texture or colour. are still located at the same address slow rate of production to allow true creativity and craftsmanship We have learnt to break down all material hierarchies in what today. to flourish. We first sit down together to discuss an idea, and then we use or how we use it.

р. 48 interview

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treasures. Here in Munich at one of our museums there is an inscription on the walls of a gallery filled with ancient Egyptian artefacts and it states “All art is contemporary”. This encapsulates all that we aim to achieve in terms of our aesthetic and cultural legacy.

ALROSA: What is comes first for you, the material or the idea? CHRISTIAN HEMMERLE: Materials are our starting point and drive our creativity. Often we center our creations around an artefact or a stone in an effort to develop the perfect home for it. We experiment Clockwise from left: with unconventional materials not just to Hemmerle boutique on Maximilianstrasse in 1904. be different but to develop an ideal and Working on an order. resolved creation that reflects our ethos. Hemmerle boutique on Maximilianstrasse. ALROSA: Could you please tell us about Courtesy Hemmerle From left to right: The house was delegated the other non-traditional materials you Hemmerle's work presented 1905 honorary mission to release work with? at the world's fair in Paris in Maximiliansorden, the Order of 1900. CHRISTIAN HEMMERLE: We have worked with "Maximiliansorden", the order King Maximilian II of Bavaria “For constant research, innovation and bold unique materials for decades now including of Maximilian. achievements in science and art”, established in 1853. This award is experiments. There was a radical change as you mention 17th – 19th century micro- Courtesy Hemmerle still being issued by Hemmerle to in Hemmerle philosophy in 1995 when my mosaics defined by the highest levels of this day. father, Stefan Hemmerle, created a unique craftsmanship historically achieved with avant-garde aesthetic. Thinking about the 3,000 to 5,000 tesserae per square inch. Carl Hemmerle takes control of 1937 the business. design of a ring for the wife of a famous Paired with aluminium that has been German collector, who “couldn’t stand patinated to reflect the colour hues of blue The family searches for special and unusual Carl Hemmerle renovates the pretentious jewelry”, he decided to turn to evidenced in each provides for exactly the stones, sometimes waiting years to find 1968 boutique and hands over the her favorite famous Berlin jewelry made of right balance between the contemporary the perfect match. The design of each reins to the third generation of cast iron: in the 19th century, the Germans element and the artefact that defines our piece is often inspired by a central stone or the Hemmerle family, Stefan and Franz. received them in exchange for gold and aesthetic. material and is a collaborative process for silver jewelry, which had been sacrificed in the family and our workshop. Each piece is 1995 Stefan Hemmerle and his wife support of the Wars of Liberation against ALROSA: Do you have particular favorite CHRISTIAN HEMMERLE: No two Hemmerle shaped through iterative sketches and then Sylveli, decide the time is right to Napoleon. As a result, my father inserted historical periods or directions? jewels are alike and no combination of handcrafted in Hemmerle’s atelier, taking break with the past and to start transform the jewels into a true a diamond not in traditional gold or CHRISTIAN HEMMERLE: Everything around materials the same. We do however have up to 500 hours to complete. contemporary work of art. each creation is crafted from start to finish platinum, but in textured iron. Combining me that has beauty. I travel a lot for work signature styles such as the open-ended by just one of our master craftsmen – “ordinary” metal and a sparkling gem was and have learnt inspiration can often lie harmony bangle with its seamless closure, ALROSA: Where and how is your product A town house in the heart of besides stone setting, which is done by quite daring at the time: the iron setting in everyday things and objects. The most structural pieces with geometric lines created? 1999 Munich is renovated as the atelier specialist master craftsman who focus perfectly emphasized the sparkling beauty beautiful things are usually the simplest. and necklaces with chains knitted in the YASMIN HEMMERLE: We put no limit on the expands to house 15 dedicated goldsmiths. All jewellery is made just on this process at our atelier. As of the diamond. The combination of Our design ideas originate from round of cut stones using an old Austrian amount of time it takes to make a single onsite and nothing is outsourced. we value experimentation, it is never a ‘common’ metal with a brilliant, precious a plethora of historical periods from Post- technique, hung with a luxuriant tassel. creation, often devoting hundreds of Every piece is hand-crafted and a straightforward process, but rather stone was unusual, yet the iron band war art to minimalist and from a creative Our open-ended Harmony bangle can be hours to a single piece, and we produce entirely bespoke. It is not unusual a journey of creative discovery, and striving uniquely enhanced the diamond’s sparkling urge for self-expression. We are inspired by found in the permanent collections of the approximately 200 pieces a year and for 500 or more hours to be spent on the making of a single for the highest quality and intricacy of beauty resulting in a striking modernity what we see around us—culture, history, Victoria & Albert Museum in London and a creation could take over 500 hours to Hemmerle jewel. craftsmanship. that has heralded the new era in our art, architecture, nature and more. Creative the Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt in New complete. As mentioned, we prioritize creative vocabulary. ideas for us reside in everyday life and York. innovation and creativity, so wish to give A collection of “mushroom ALROSA: When a brand exists on the can be found in the most mundane, from YASMIN HEMMERLE: We believe an a certain freedom to our master craftsmen 2004 brooches” is launched—the idea market more than a century, its style ALROSA: How do you see ideal Hemmerle a conversation with our son about machines identifiable red thread in our design to do their incredible work. Each jewel to came after Stefan Hemmerle and his niece had looked through will invariably change. How has the jewelry? and their components which inspired our philosophy and creations is instrumental come out of the atelier is as unique as a work a book about mushrooms. Hemmerle style changed, and how would CHRISTIAN HEMMERLE: It should have a clear kinetic cog wheel earrings, to the spatial and acts as a driving force to our creativity. of art. you describe it today? aesthetic with bold contours and original awareness of a room and an architectural We do not have seasonal collections and CHRISTIAN HEMMERLE: Our deliberately Christian Hemmerle, Stefan's CHRISTIAN HEMMERLE: Our style consists settings that are part contemporary art, detail we observe on our daily walk to work. accordingly the use of non-precious metals slow rate of production provides for true 2006 son, and his wife Yasmin join ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter Hemmerle and now stand at of the combined knowledge and skills of part museum acquisition and defined by and materials is not tied to a specific period creativity and craftsmanship to flourish the helm of the brand with their several generations of craftsmen under difference, a hint of rebellion, imaginative, ALROSA: How important is a recognizable in time but instead is a common thread with a visual language that best expresses parents the roof of our Munich studio, as well as individual and cherished as everyday style for a jewelry brand? throughout Hemmerle’s unique creations. our ethos defined by courage, originality 67 Top to bottom clockwise:: Hemmerle necklace, Java bead, sapphires, agate, dumortierite, silver, white gold. Hemmerle bangle, diamonds, bronze, white gold. They are becoming increasingly diverse Hemmerle bangle, diamonds, silver, white and we sell by private appointment all gold. Hemmerle earrings, around the world. We are recognized for aquamarines, micro- our innovative use of materials and we mosaics, bronze, white gold. work with all kinds of collectors who have a real eye for the unusual; they want to wear Сourtesy Hemmerle. pieces which are truly individual. I would say the common denominator is that they are art lovers with an eye for originality and and innovation. We currently have 22 style. When choosing a piece from us they master-craftsmen in our atelier including look for interesting design, craftsmanship 2 apprentices, many of whom have been and then colour, pattern, clarity and with us for their whole career. The atelier luminescence. is where the true magic and heart of Hemmerle resides. A LROSA: How would you describe 2020 in brief? Has your work been affected by A LROSA: How and where do you sell your the pandemic? products? YASMIN HEMMERLE: Our world became YASMIN HEMMERLE: Our boutique originally smaller, yet our focus increased and our opened its doors in 1904 and is still to senses sharpened. This year we have this day our only location. We exhibit at experienced the space around us on a more international art and design fairs, such as conscious level than ever before. Having TEFAF in Maastricht and PAD in London, plenty of ‘psychological’ space allows us to and organize private appointments around maintain perspective, use our time wisely, the world to engage with an expanding and work not only more efficiently, but more audience of collectors. Our creations are creatively. The art of crafting jewellery has also part of permanent museum collections always demanded this combination of focus including the Metropolitan Museum of and sensitivity. Art, New York and the Victoria and Albert Museum, London amongst others as well as exhibited in institutions worldwide. Above: Hemmerle earrings, antique glass beads, diamonds, ALROSA: What picture would you paint bronze, white gold. of your clients? Where do they live Below: Hemmerle earrings, diamonds, and what makes them buy Hemmerle bronze, white gold. jewelry? ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter Courtesy Hemmerle YASMIN HEMMERLE: Our collectors are our biggest asset; they are our ambassadors. 69 jewelry journeys

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JAPAN: TREASURE ISLAND The passing year, on one hand, has limited our travel around the world, but, on the other, has revived the unique feeling of looking forward to travel. Realizing that every new trip may be the last before a new wave of lockdowns, we have begun to plan our trips more scrupulously, still asking ourselves: where do we actually wish to go?

text: ELENA ESAULOVA, creator of the E2J jewelry brand, collector Photo: Press services

Traveling along the little-known jewelry routes of Japan was an old dream of mine that finally came true, which filled me with joy with the new discoveries. While gastronomic tours of Japan are no surprise, getting to know the art of Japanese jewelry masters is still a new experience for many. In search of this unique beauty, I would like to invite you on this trip where we, while exploring the central part of Tokyo, will also set off on a real treasure hunt around small towns and islands of the incredible and still mysterious Land of the Rising Sun. ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter

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Having enjoyed the diverse atmosphere of Tokyo to the fullest extent, you can adventurously plan Shinji Nakaba Designer Shinji your next stop, and Hakone, a national park and Nakaba and his resort area southeast of Fuji, can be that special decoration in the style of veritas travel destination. It is the home of both wonderful museums of glass and contemporary art. And, of course, a special part of the program is combining your jewelry trip with the pleasure of seeing the majestic view of Fujiyama or Fuji-san, perhaps, the If time is of the essence, you will Hprincipal symbol of the Land of the Rising Sun. benefit from looking at the poster But our basic goal is a visit to the private museum of exhibitions held in Tokyo and dedicated to Rene Lalique, one of the most prominent, Mikimoto nearby cities and find exhibitions beloved and still in-demand jewelry masters of the organized by the Albion Art 20th century. Institute. They are absolute must- I have been to many museums where the works of Tourists are not the only sees: Kazumi Arikawa, the iconic this genius are kept, but this is the place where I come ones dreaming of having collector of our time, is behind back over again and again—every time I am in Japan. a Mikimoto them, which means that visitors The quality of the collection and exhibition is so souvenir: it is on the wish-list will have a great opportunity to perfect that even the most sophisticated connoisseurs of almost every I see part of his unique jewelry art of exhibition spaces cannot remain indifferent. It is Japanese man or woman collection. The collection actually there, in the Hakone Museum, where one can fully contains a myriad of treasures, apprehend both the master’s contribution to the including famous tiaras. The shine promotion of Art Nouveau, and his influence on a of diamonds, multiplied by Kazumi wide variety of areas of visual arts. There you can find Arikawa’s impeccable taste, will Those who adore the the original Orient Express car designed by him, and not leave you unmoved. extravagant and somewhat the figurines gracing the hoods of the most beautiful gloomy vanitas aesthetic must rare old cars, as well as his later works. The Japanese, For many jewelry lovers who have flown to the visit the workshop of another aside from the creation of the huge Lalique collection, fabulous island, the most famous jewelry treasure is incredible master, Shinji Nakaba: were also successful in showing the master’s truly the Mikimoto brand, whose headquarters rise high it is a place where one can find amazing artistic versatility. in the center of Tokyo. On each floor, pearls with and rings and bracelets with pearl Car of the famous without diamonds, of varied color and size, matching skulls, brooches with antique Orient Express, any taste and budget, shine like in Aladdin’s cave. profiles showing through, designed by Rene ADDRESS: Lalique And this is where one has to mention right away that spotless fragments of the body 4-5-5 Ginza Chuo-ku tourists are not the only ones dreaming of having and irregularly-shaped necklaces www.mikimoto.com a Mikimoto souvenir: it is on the wish-list of almost inspired by the Japanese wabi-sabi Fevery Japanese man or woman. Therefore, local aesthetic. It is quite easy to visit residents, along with the “guests of the capital”, are the original jeweler from Tokyo, invariably among those exploring the floors of the who lives and works in a nearby building. suburb. By the way, the building itself, built in 2005 by Toyo Ito, a prominent architect, is also a work of art to a certain extent. Ito faced the task of designing a strikingly recognizable structure that would become a hallmark of Mikimoto. What ultimately came to Lalique be never disappoints any guest of Tokyo: in the Jewelry from the Albion evening, the irregularly shaped windows reflecting Art Institute`s collection the neighboring houses blink with a soft warm light, the building resembling a giant highlighted jewelry showcase. If you are a fan of “insightful tourism”, you may

proceed with exploring the brand, spending another ADDRESSES: couple of days of your trip going to Mikimoto Island. Albion Art Institute: That is where you will learn and see how pearls were www.albionart.com ADDRESS: 186-1, Sengokokuhara, actually grown and harvested in the old days: in Shinji Nakaba: 4594-3 Hakone-machi, Ashigarashimo- addition to a museum tour dedicated to a detailed Kawashiri Midori-ku gun, Kanagawa ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter history of the company, guests are entertained with a s-nakaba.shop-pro.jp www.lalique-museum.com spectacular female diver show. 73 jewelry journeys

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Much like Lalique, Kunio Inspired by what we have seen, we get on a high- Nakajima does a lot of speed train and, still admiring the views of Japanese Kunio Nakajima experiments with enamels, motifs of nature nature through its huge windows, but from another angle, move to the old capital of Japan, Kyoto. It is a place where national costumes and traditional food are found on the streets much more often than in many other cities with ancient historical roots. However, Kyoto is worth going to not only for the tea ceremony, the royal palace or a dinner in the company of a geisha. This is where we will meet one Iof the youngest modern Japanese masters, Shota Suzuki. He is the only master on my “Japanese list” who never works with stones: his element is metal, with its amazing possibilities. In particular, one of Suzuki’s touches are unique patination techniques. Like many of his colleagues, he has his workshop away from the tourist routes: you will have a great opportunity to take paths only local people walk. And certainly there is a special chic in this, step by step, Shota Suzuki searching for jewelry, discovering the country and its cities, recalling now and then the words of King George III, who was, by the way, one on the Internet. Therefore, high-quality of the most significant collectors of photos of the results of his work are quite all time: “Choose the best. Not the The wild forest and sea animals created by Buchin rare. How can you visit his workshop? good, but the foremost.” Yoshioka are agile, and, for the most part, differ little Preferably, it can be arranged via a local in appearance from their intermediary, who will arrange a meeting natural prototypes Buchin Yoshioka with the artist (Buchin Yoshioka speaks only his native language, Japanese) and will take you to the destination. I am incredibly fond of this master, who has created the most intricate mechanisms, which he generously adds to Shota Suzuki never his pieces. The wild forest and sea animals works with stones: It is little wonder that in a country with created by Yoshioka’s talent are agile, his element is metal with its amazing such a unique collection of Art Nouveau and, for the most part, differ little in possibilities genius, there are immediate, sometimes appearance from their natural prototypes. even fanatical, disciples. The next In his struggle to achieve complete stop in our virtual journey will be the likeness of nature, Buchin Yoshioka is workshop of Kunio Nakajima. Much like ready to fight to the finish—and all for the Lalique, he does a lot of experiments with sake of his own curiosity. His dragonflies, enamels, motifs of nature, and generously studded with small diamonds, move their encrusted his works with pearls and eyes, have multiple joints, can rotate their Istones, adding a precious shine to them. legs, and look as if they are about to flap Now, let us make a little deviation—this their wings and fly away. master’s works appear in Moscow from In such a scrupulous approach, time to time, brought there by the Russian Japanese jewelers definitely have no retail giants. peers. The long hours many of them

ADDRESSES: This is the place where another solitary spend in meditation and observation Kunio Nakajima: Japanese jeweler, Buchin Yoshioka, lives of the surrounding nature inevitably www.nicks-factory.co.jp in a village at the foot of the great Fuji- yield fruit—some items are literally Buchin Yoshioka: san. His life is fully ascetic, as he works indistinguishable from the natural ADDRESS: a workshop in the village almost around the clock—each work originals. This is both high art and shota-suzuki.stores.jp at the foot of Fujiyama, takes three months of his time or more, something that is quite rarely found in https://shota-suzuki. ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter by arrangement and he never advertises himself in any the work of European masters: the talent stores.jp/inquiry way and has almost no representation to convey pristine natural beauty. 75 jewelry journeys

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In Japanese culture, the rhythm of the seasons has a special meaning: seasonal changes in nature are met here with equal attention and expectation

Gimel

ювелирный дом Giolleria Bastianello

An interesting fact relating both to the Gimel brand and to the general approach of Japanese craftsmen is that they never work with metal that has been used before. nature that has influenced the formation They use only new ingots and only stones of Kaoru’s inner world and the jewelry that were selected to match each piece of masterpieces she has created. jewelry. And if we talk about metal, it often The huge windows of the Gimel plays a supporting role in Japanese jewelry. Gold is used rarely or in small quantities, workshop open on views of the with their own “branded” non-precious alloys If you’ve already made it to Kyoto, I enchanting transformation of nature or patina, the art of which has developed highly recommend going inland a little all year round: the mutable colors over centuries, being preferred. Stones, further, for the sake of the two amazing of the sky, the drifting clouds, the whenever they are used, are the purest and revelations. fluttering butterflies and dragonflies, the choicest only. And, almost always, the motif of changeable, elusive nature is the basis on The first of them is Kanazawa, a city of bumblebees dancing near the flowers, the which the item is created. craftsmen with a captivating atmosphere, young leaves full of life and freshness in where, since the times of the samurai, spring, and the withering crowns of the masters have worked with fullering and trees in autumn. In Japanese culture, gold leaf. There, you can take a stroll the rhythm of the seasons has a special Ithrough the oldest wooden quarters, and meaning: seasonal changes in nature even taste ice cream and tea with the are met here with equal attention and finest real gold added. expectation. And Ms. Akihara is no Going deeper into the woods, you can exception. In one interview, she confessed find the unique workshop of the Gimel that she saw special meaning in the daily Jewelry House. In 2000, Sotheby’s auction ascent of her employees up the mountain is responsible for the whole cycle of an house declared its founder, Kaoru Kei where the factory is located: on their item’s creation process, from the cutting Akihara, one of the most revolutionary way, they can admire the flowers and and polishing of stones to their setting. and influential jewelers of the 21st trees, the change of colors and weather Here, in the national park of Mount

century. Gimel Workshop is located on In the city of craftsmen you can take conditions. And a jeweler, in her opinion, Rokko-san, we will end our immersion the top of Mount Rokko-san, near Kobe, a stroll through the oldest wooden must be constantly looking at something trip to the amazing world of Japanese quarters, and even taste ice cream the capital of Hyogo Prefecture, and is and tea with the finest real gold beautiful—only then will he be able to jewelry. But I am quite sure that your

added ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter remarkable—like many other national create perfect pieces of jewelry. By the personal immersion in the nature of this ADDRESS: parks in Japan—for its truly extraordinary way, there is no traditional European art, and in the art of Japanese nature, will gimelgimel.com beauty. Perhaps it is the harmony of division of labor at Gimel: each craftsman not end at this point. 77 collection

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Photo: press service press materialsPhoto: The story of No Rules by Kate Moss, a high jewelry art collection from French brand Messika, started in the Ritz Hotel, where its founder, Valerie Messika, met model Kate Moss during the traditional Galette des Rois Christmas celebrations in France. Valerie noted the impressive number of jewelry items Kate was wearing, and that ignited a long conversation. As it turned out, the model is simply obsessed with jewelry: she has a jewelry collection of her own, related to stories from her life, and her favorites are yellow gold, emeralds and baguette cutting. By the way, Kate Moss was already the face of the Messika Lucky Move collection in 2019, but this time she was also offered the chance to become the co-creator of jewelry items. Inspiration came from her personal jewelry box, where Aztec and Art Deco styles are combined with Messika’s recognizable light, relaxed style. Valerie Messika defined the general mood of their joint collection, consisting of seven sets and more than a hundred pieces, as “relaxed luxury”, which precisely reflects both the style of Kate Moss, and of the brand itself. JEWELRY

THIS YEAR, THERE WERE NO TRADITIONAL RED CARPET EVENTS WHERE MOVIE STARS COULD WEAR LUXURIOUS NECKLACES, AND NO PRESENTATIONSstories OF HIGH JEWELRY ART AS PART OF THE SUMMER HAUTE COUTURE FASHION WEEK WERE HELD. NEVERTHELESS, JEWELRY BRANDS STILL CREATED THEIR COLLECTIONS, ADDRESSING TIMELESS THEMES AND STORIES: NATURE, BRAND HERITAGE AND HISTORICAL STYLES, FROM

BAROQUE TO AVANT-GARDE. ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter

This ALROSA report informs us about the most beautiful collections and jewelry stories of the year. Messika 79 ВЕЧНОЕ

ТЕМЫ ЮВЕЛИРНЫХ КОЛЛЕКЦИЙ – ТА СТАБИЛЬНАЯ СОСТАВЛЯЮЩАЯ, НА КОТОРУЮ НЕ ВЛИЯЮТ СОЦИАЛЬНЫЕ, КУЛЬТУРНЫЕ ИЛИ ЛЮБЫЕ ДРУГИЕ ТРЕНДЫ. ЧТО БЫ НИ ПРИНОСИЛ ВЕТЕР ПЕРЕМЕН, КАЖДЫЙ ГОД ЮВЕЛИРНЫЕ ДОМА БУДУТ ПРЕДЛАГАТЬ НОВЫЕ ВЕРСИИ УКРАШЕНИЙ НА ИЗВЕЧНЫЕ ТЕМЫ: СЕРДЦА, КРЫЛЬЯ И НИКОГДА НЕ УВЯДАЮЩИЕ ЦВЕТЫ.

Nature is the main character in Cartier’s (Sur) Naturel story, and that is more than just a traditional theme for any jewelry house. The brand’s masters have spoken an unconventional language. Instead of recognizable silhouettes close to the originals, there came combinations of conventional shapes and color accents: just like those on abstractionists’ canvases. Even the famous Cartier panther, holy of holies of the brand, did not escape transformation: the image is the basis of the Panthère Cartier Tropicale watch. There is none of the familiar shape of the jewelry predator, but there is a detail that refers to it: a spotted The stunning collection of Dior, named Tie & Dior, also shows pattern of diamonds and black onyx set abstract images. Victoire de Castellane, Chief Designer of the along the perimeter. Dior Joaillerie jewelry line, created more than a hundred pieces However, the most exciting stories of inspired by none other than the tie-dye technique. The technique natural metamorphosis are told by the has been used for hundreds of years, and has been common in necklaces. For example, in Tillandsia, named China, India and Africa. In the 20th century, it became popular in after the evergreen herbaceous plant, a riot Europe and in the USA thanks to the representatives of the hippie of South American vegetation is conveyed movement who appreciated its natural effect: the distinctive by a pair of huge oval beryls complemented feature of tie-dye is its spontaneous abstract pattern, which by yellow-brown diamonds. can never be seen in absolute precision beforehand. The Tie & At the same time, the Hemis necklace, Dior jewelry items of precious metals and bright stones look named for a national park in the Himalayas, just as lively and impromptu. Multi-colored stones of diverse paints the picture of a snow leopard crossing cutting may be weaved in the asymmetric earrings of one pair, a mountain stream. Smooth opals evoke but, notwithstanding that, the earrings are perceived as a pair. associations with river pebbles, and the Massive pearls of milky, pink or greenish-yellow colors are the

fractional contrasting structure of the “core” elements of most of these items of jewelry. ALROSA 2020 # 2 (12) Winter jewelry – with the spotted colored marking of the leopard. 81 collection

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The concept of the Contemplations collection was inspired by Boucheronthe vacations of Claire Choisne, Boucheron’s Creative Director, when she was relaxing at her home in Portugal, indulging in the meditative contemplation of nature. At some point, she realized that her impressions—the feeling of the transience of a moment, the play of light and shadow, and the purity of the divine—are all worthy of embodiment in jewelry. In a word, just like the impressionist painters at the turn of 19th and 20th centuries, Claire Choisne set herself the goal of freezing the moment, in all its caprice and fluidity. But how can the freshness of a raindrop be conveyed in a piece of jewelry, or a piece of the sky settled on the neck? The latest of Claire’s ideas was embodied in one of the most sophisticated pieces of the collection, the Goutte de Ciel necklace (French for “A drop of heaven”). Having tried all the traditional jewelry materials and yet not finding anything suitable, she decided to go beyond the customary. The answer to her question was aerogel, which was used in NASA’s Stardust project to trap cosmic dust. The bluish substance was encased in a rock crystal shell, and the pendant thus formed was placed in a necklace set with transparent quartz and diamonds. ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter

83 The history of the creation of the Red Carpet collection by Chopard jewelry house dates back to the 60th anniversary of the Cannes InternationalChopard Film Festival, celebrated in 2006. As an Official Partner of the major European film forum, Chopard released, specifically for the event, 60 items for the actresses walking up the stairs of the Palais des Festivals. Since then, Chopard jewelers have created a new Red Carpet collection every year, and one new item is added to it every time. This year, the collection includes 73 jewelry pieces with images of plants and animals: Caroline Scheufele, co-president and artistic director of the House, chose nature as the core theme of the collection. Moreover, the representatives of flora and fauna look more than realistic. For example, in the Owl watch, the night bird sparkles with its clock-face eyes framed by multicolored sapphires; the Orchid earrings show little sapphire petals that could be taken as real, and in the Parrot necklace, a parrot looking quite like a live creature but, on the other hand, resembling a fairy-tale illustration of colored and transparent diamonds, pink sapphires, black opals and rubies, has landed on white pearl threads.

This summer, the jewelry brand presented its solemn baroque collection, which is called simply Barocko. And where else but in Roman architectureBvlgari can one search for the roots of this style, especially since the history of Bvlgari began in Rome in 1884. Each item is a kind of reminder of iconic places, monuments of architecture and the rivalry between two geniuses of Roman Baroque: Gian Lorenzo Bernini, fortune’s favorite, and Francesco Borromini, no less brilliant, but not so lucky. The Fountain of the Four Rivers in Piazza Navona, nearby Sant’Agnese in Agone church, the Farnese Gardens on the Palatine Hill... To embody this challenging and bold idea, Lucia Silvestri, director of Bvlgari, used multi-color gems, though some of them had to be sought for over several years. Thus, one of the core treasures of the collection, the Cabochon Exuberance necklace, is made of unique precious stones of various colors and sizes, united by Cabochon cutting. Just like other items in this collection, Cabochon Exuberance tells us its Roman story. It is dedicated to one of the most influential aristocratic families in Italy, and its prototypes were the Farnese Gardens, a paradisical oasis in the center of the Eternal City, where luxurious festivals in baroque style

have been held. ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter

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Chaumet House told us a story that is impressive in its graphic quality and energy of color, a story inspired by architectural motifs. The Chaumetbrand’s jewelers have turned to architecture almost from the time of its founding in 1780, but in Perspectives de Chaumet, the new collection, their affection is quite vivid. There are discernable features of the Italian Renaissance, and Bauhaus, and deconstructivism... The source of inspiration for Lux, the Italian line, were the multi-color domes of the Renaissance, and this theme was conveyed by Chaumet masters using in it. In 1954, a tweed suit precious stones and minerals: Australian opals, lazurite beads, square-cut became the protagonist diamonds, cabochons sapphires... The Skyline line reflects the precision, of Chanel’s iconic fashion scale and sharpness of modern cities. Their features were conveyed by show. By that time, the the designers by means of the combination of the warm shades of gold, Mademoiselle had not massive emeralds and diamonds. The collection’s oriental theme, Lacis, released her collections for makes reference to narrow Arab streets and mashrabiyas. The story of 15 years, and the industry deconstructivism is told in the Ondulation line, with its unity of details was already ready to write and fragmentation of forms, while Russian constructivism is clearly seen ChanelEarlier this year, Chanel’s her off. As we know, the show in Labyrinthe line, with its geometric shapes and contrasts of black onyx, jewelry unit launched was a sensation, and tweed transparent diamonds and colored stones, such as rosy tourmalines, a collection of 45 pieces became one of the House’s Zambian emeralds and Burmese sapphires. of amazing beauty and symbols. representation, dedicated But how might the pliability to tweed, one of the house’s and flexibility of soft woolen iconic materials. Coco Chanel fabric, its rhythm and turned her attention to tweed spontaneity, be added to gold in the mid-1920s: they say it and diamonds? The answers happened due to the courtesy to the question were the of the Duke of Westminster agile mountings designed and his impeccable woolen by Chanel Jewelry Studio. suits—she was attracted by Thanks to these mountings, the natural, uneven texture jewelry really becomes agile of the material, its flexibility and soft, while the lively and practicality. At the time, weaving of tweed threads tweed was used in men’s is recreated by means of

clothing only, but Chanel the special arrangement, ALROSA 2021 # 2 (12) Winter quickly corrected that gender combination and polishing of injustice, clothing women precious stones. 87 collection

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EASY DETECTION FOR DIAMONDS AND DIAMOND JEWELRY

The rst Russian-made portable device for diamond identi cation: ALROSA Diamond Inspector showed high results in ASSURE project testing held at independent laboratory UL Veri cation Services, Inc. in Boston, MA. With three methods of optical analysis, easy-to-navigate user interface and a low cost compared to similar tools, this device is suitable for retail shops, pawnshops, distribu- tors, gemological laboratories and jewelry manufacturers.

Van Cleef &

The Jewelry House presented three Cleef & Arpels. The actress purchased unique items of high jewelry art, and the piece, decorated with rubies and eachArpels of them is a dedication to iconic diamonds, in 1937: it can be seen in jewelry which belonged to prominent many of her photographs, as well as in clients of the House. the Alfred Hitchcock film Stage Fright ALROSA DIAMOND INSPECTOR IDENTIFIES: The Merveille d’émeraudes necklace, (1950). The new bracelet dedicated to with five pear-shaped Colombian the film consists of 72 Burmese rubies / polished lab-grown / polished diamonds / non-diamond imitations emeralds of a total weight of 70.40 of “cushion” cutting, weighing a total of diamonds grown or simulants (moissanite, carats, reminds us of the collar necklace 84.74 carats. using HPHT, CVD or other / enhanced or treated cubic zirconia, etc.) of Faiza, the Egyptian Princess, which Finally, the Tendresse étincelante methods polished diamonds was created in 1929. It became the earrings with detachable pendants property of Her Royal Highness in 1947, are a tribute to the Van Cleef & Arpels and in 2014 it was returned to Van diamond and ruby earrings which were Cleef & Arpels, joining the House’s presented in 1968 by Aristotle Onassis to collection. Jacqueline Kennedy as a wedding gift. In The Rubis en scène bracelet is the tribute version, the graceful flower- a tribute to the Jarretière bracelet, shaped earrings were supplemented one of the favorite jewelry items of with pear-shaped diamonds (DFL/2A) [email protected] / www.alrosa-inspector.com / +7 (495) 108-52-58 Marlene Dietrich, created by Van weighing a total of 20–21 carats.