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Nothing but Gum Trees :Textile Manufacturing in New South Wales 1788-1850

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Nothing but Gum Trees :Textile Manufacturing in New South Wales 1788-1850 AUSTRALASIAN HISTORICAL ARCHAEOLOGY, 11, 1993 Nothing But Gum Trees :Textile Manufacturing in New South Wales 1788-1850 EVE STENNING ... we must remember that there is a vast difference between the old country, where all machinery is ready to the hand for carrying on the work, and a country like this, where we have nothing but gum trees to begin with. Sir Henry Parkes Immediately after the arrival of the First Fleet efforts were made to produce textile fibres and it was not long before the government attempted to make cloth with the help of unskilled convict labour By the 1820s a tex- tile industry had developed to satisfy some of the colony's needs, and by the later 1840s some up-to-date fac- tories had been built. This paper analyses the historical and archaeological evidence for the early Australian textile industry. The business of transporting convicts and their guards halfway round the world and keeping them fed and clothed was expensive. The British had to seize any opportunity to make the new settlement useful to the Mother Country and pay for itself. When the eleven ships of the First Fleet sailed from England the first governor, Arthur Phillip, had among his instructions a section concerning the urgent production of flax fibres, 'as a means of acquiring clothing for the convicts and other persons who may become settlers ... it may ultimately become an article of export3.1These words reflect the serious problem the British Admiralty had in the last quarter of the eighteenth century with the shortage of canvas, cordage and cables for the Navy. No time was lost; just over a fortnight after the arrival of the First Fleet in Sydney Cove, Governor Phillip sent Philip Gidley King, second lieutenant of His Majesty's ship Sirius, as super- intendent and commandant with a group of twenty-three people - including a self-proclaimed weaver - to Norfolk ~sland.~Following the report of Sir Joseph Banks, who had accompanied Captain James Cook on his first voyage, great expectations were held for the flax that was growing wild and abundant there. King was given instructions to cultivate not only native flax, but also cotton as well as corn and other grains.3 He did not know that the native flax, Phormium Tenax, that Captain Cook and Sir Joseph Banks had seen, looked quite different from the European flax plant (Fig. 1). John Hunter's exploring party found the plant by accident, when at Anson's Bay they came across a 'perpendicular cliff with a large kind Fig.1: Phormium renux, native flux. of iris growing on the side of it ... if the iris had not been suffi- In addition to trying to make cloth the convicts used the plant ciently strong to have supported our weight we must have to make fishing lines and anchor ropes, and for a shoa while fallen down a depth of 90 feet.'4 even thatched roofs. Hume sent an 18-gallon keg of collected An 'expert', Andrew Hume, was sent to the island in 1890 flax seed back to the mainland. It soon became obvious and immediately set to work. Although he came free to however that the strange flax had different properties from the supervise convicts, he was no better than his charges, according one that grew in England and could not be handled by to a letter sent from the Cape of Good Hope to England about traditional means. The decision was made to make use of the his behaviour on the voyage out.5 Hume's efforts bore some knowledge New Zealand natives had of treating the flax. At result - after some time he managed to weave two pieces of first the Government wanted to send someone to New Zealand cloth of locally grown flax at Cascade Bay. Archaeologist to see how it was done, but instead, two Maori men were Robert Varman and his team discovered traces of human kidnapped at the Bay of Islands. They arrived at Norfolk Island habitation and rural activities on this site some time ago but in May 1793. Unfortunately they were the wrong people to found no remains to indicate the original purpose of the site. capture, for in New Zealand the working of flax was done by women, and these men - one a priest and the other a warrior Governor. He found the achievements of the factory 'extremely chief - could only give very sketchy advi~e.~It became clear trifling'. As one of the reasons for this was the extreme that the procedure for treating the plant was different and so shortage of both wool and flax, experimentation with other was the part of the plant used -the Maoris used the leaves, not fibrous materials was pursued with vigour, just as today's the stalk of the plant. Even with the most determined effort scientists are eager to find new raw materials to replace natural Hume was not successful in making a competitive product of fibres. By the time Lachlan Macquarie arrived as Governor in Phormium tenax. No more manufacturing of cloth was done on 1810, there was an adequate food supply, people wore clothes the island, although the finished product compared well with instead of rags; there was time to take stock, and think of the its European counterpart. future. Meanwhile in Sydney different experiments were carried During the beginning of the Macquarie years (18 10 - 1822) out. Food and clothes were in desperately short supply and the Female Factory was working at reduced capacity, partly hardly any supplies arrived by ship. The need for cordage and because of bad management since the death of Mealmaker, but sails was as urgent as for clothes. Attempts were made to use mainly because of the unsuitable nature of the building (Fig. 2). the bark of the kurrajong tree by combining it with either wool In 18 14 Macquarie found a 'proper and well qualified Person or wild flax. No acknowledgement was given to Aborigines in as Superintendent' in Francis Oakes. l2 At the time there were the obvious examples they gave of using native plants for already 150 women working at the Factory, who between them useful purposes.7 Wool was beginning to be regarded as a had 70 children. Conditions were appalling in the crowded possibility for producing quantities of cloth. There was even factorylbedroomlnursery/kitchen, which was upstairs. Men talk of it as a possible export article, but there was not enough, were working and living below, and the women not only partly because the available sheep were used for meat and squabbled between themselves but annoyed the men by partly because the quality was not as good as that to which throwing things down at them. The equipment to produce manufacturers in England were accustomed. Manpower was textiles was as inadequate as the conditions, specially in also in short supply, as people who professed to be weavers comparison with the well-equipped factories in Britain and in preferred to work on the land to produce food.8 The America at the time. manufacture of cloth hardly amounted to anything in the 1790s Those convicts who could afford it, still lived in the huts even though two men were constantly making and repairing along the main street that became George Street. The footings spinning wheels and even fabricated two looms in 1798 for the of two of these huts were excavated by Ted Higginbotham in use of the convict 'factory' at ~arramatta.~Hunter - the new 1985.13 Governor - complained bitterly in 1799 that no clothes or A new Female Factory was planned as part of Macquarie's blankets have been received for the last three years.10 Some public building program. It was designed by Francis Greenway effort was made in Parramatta by the convict women to make the convict architect. Building started in 18 18 north of the old clothes out of sacks in which vegetables were packed. When one, next to the river.14 A plan of the Factory drawn in the late the women were not occupied with stitching these bags, they 1820's shows some of the buildings. Plans of the factory drawn were set to work at spinning, or whatever else needed doing. in 1833 were found at the Public Records Office at Kew in Philip Gidley King arrived in 1800 as Hunter's successor, England (Fig. 3115 There are some contemporary images that convinced that the Government's efforts in textile manufac- show the Female Factory was a complex of fine buildings turing were specially important, and he took a concerned surrounded by high walls (Fig. 4). It has been changed many interest in the budding industry. Before leaving England he times since it was built, but it is probable that some of the walls engaged a master weaver, Edward Wise, to become superinten- that are there today were built in the 1820s. One of the dent of the factory and ordered the long-awaited equipment. buildings built in Governor Darling's time is still standing The unfortunate Wise drowned on the way to the colony having almost in its original form (Fig. 5). No archaeological investi- been swept overboard from the ship Porpoise. King had to start gation has been done on either of the three gaol sites at from scratch; not only did he have no superintendent but the Parramatta, except for the research and survey done in the equipment ordered on the advice of 'experts' was of the course of writing my thesis. l6 outdated kind used in England before the development of Unfortunately, John Thomas Bigge, appointed in 1819 as spinning machines in the 1760s.
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