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Mount Everest: the Sixth Expedition. H • • • THE .I VOL. XLVIII NOVEMBER 1936 NO. 253 MOUNT EVEREST: THE SIXTH EXPEDITION 1 BY HUGH RUTTLEDGE Read before the Alpine Club, October 27, I 93 6 LTHOUGH t~is year's expedition to Mount Everest resulted in complete failure to climb the mountain, or indeed to set foot above the N. Col, it is hoped that the experience gained will be not without value to future expeditions. In organizing the expedition no avenue opened by previous attempts was left unexplored, and particular attention was paid to the selection of personnel ; I think it would be difficult to find a stronger party, from every point of view, than that which set out in the spring of this year to make a sixth journey to Mount Everest. As is well known, it was thought desirable on this occasion to collect a party of which the members had climbed together before and therefore knew each other's form, who had some experience of high-altitude conditions, and had given proofs of the capacity to acclimatize well. The reconnaissance led by Shipton last year to Everest and the work done by Smythe in the Alps at the • same time gave the Mount Everest Committee and the leader of the expedition more data to guide them than had been previously available ; the Committee gave the leader very full discretion as to the use of this data and, after exhaustive discussion with both Smythe and Shipton, a party of twelve tnen was decided upon, of whom eight were considered to be potentially capable of reaching the summit. Of these eight, six had been to Everest before; a seventh, Oliver, had climbed Trisul; and one only, Gavin, had not been to' the Himalaya. Gavin owed his place 1 The names of the members of the party appear on p. t8 5 and on the illustration accompanying this pape·r. VOL. XI~VIII. NO. CCLIII. Q 222 MOUNT EVEREST: THE SIXTH EXPEDITION not only to sound mountaineering ability but to the fact that the extremely rigorous medical test of the Royal Air Force Medical Board had placed him in a class by himself. I may say here that their verdict was thoroughly borne out on the mountain. Of the four men not expected to go very high, one only Humphreys - had not been to Everest before, but his record of expeditions indicated that he was capable of almost infinite endurance. The party was brought out to India in echelon, to obviate waste of time and money; the work of selection of porters, organiza­ tion of transport and other preliminaries being done by Morris, Shipton, Wyn Harris and the leader at Darjeeling while the others • were still at sea. At home the whole organization of the expedition \vas carried through by Shipton, Smythe and the leader, with the generous assistance of very many willing helpers, of whom I may specially mention Mr. C. Scott Lindsay, to whom we are indebted for the quite exceptional rationing which was a feature this year. A good deal of trouble was taken to improve equipment in the light of past experience, and a new type of Arctic tent was pro­ vided with the particular object of rendering conditions more tolerable than before at Camp V, where much misery has been endured in the past. One cannot expect men to give of their best in the final assaults if already, at comparatively low altitude, 25,700 ft., their vitality has been lovvered by extreme discomfort. The oxygen problem was again considered, not only in view of the already well-known opinions of distinguished physiologists, but as a result of conversations with the expert staff at the Royal Air Force factory at Farnborough. Although some of our best men are still convinced that the mountain can be climbed with­ out the use of oxygen, and argue that the dangers and transport difficulties inseparable from its employment outweigh any possible benefits, one did not feel justified in a refusal to have this aid available and, after many tests, an apparatus lighter than that taken in 1933 was adopted. Throughout the expedition Warren took a great deal of trouble to make experiments and collect data as to its value. Experience gained in 1933 enabled Smijth-Windham, though working single-handed, to make most effective wireless arrange­ ments, among which may be specially mentioned here the pro­ vision of very light high-altitude sets which there is every reason to suppose could have been used up to the highest camp. Owing to these it was possible to dispense with telephone wire, and communication could be established not only between Darjeeling and the Base Camp, but along the whole of our lines of communi­ cation. Gavin well upheld the reputation of the Corps of Royal • MOUNT EVEREST: THE SIXTH EXPEDITION 223 Engineers for versatility by learning the Morse code in record time and by making himself master of the transmitting and receiving apparatus at Camp III. So much work is now being done in the Himalaya that the Sherpa community has become thoroughly imbued with the spirit of high-altitude mountaineering ; but the quality of the porters obtained for the expedition this year surprised even those of us who had already experienced the value of these men. News that an Everest expedition is again in being is broadcasted with that mysterious efficiency which the East invented long before the B.B.C. was thought of, and candidates good, bad and in­ different converged from all points of the compass upon Darjeeling during the winter. Fortunately Morris was already out there, and his exceptional knowledge of Nepali and his capacity for dealing with these men saved much time. The whole of his first selection was taken without hesitation and within two days we had 65 first­ class porters. A number of these possessing experience and character were appointed as sardars and under-sardars and given non-commissioned officers' stripes and special equipment; they were employed not only to keep discipline amongst the men but also to make themselves responsible for specified collections of equipment and stores during the march, an arrangement which worked so well that our total losses on the way to Everest amounted to only two or three tins of soup which must have fallen out of a disintegrated box. In every way the conduct and bearing • of this year's porter corps were superb. In order to minimize expense and transport difficulties, two recruiters were sent out to Sola Khombu in Nepal to select 100 porters who should join at Rongbuk on our arrival there. In consequence we had at our disposal for the operations on the mountain an additional corps of men of whom it might be said that although many of them looked as if they had come ' straight off the trees ' and had certainly never been on an ice slope, they shov\ted a strength, endurance and natural mountaineering ability beyond all expectation. Hitherto, all expeditions outward-bound have travelled via the Phari plain, partly because the services of the Tibetan Govern­ ment trade agent are available for transport, and partly because it was considered too risky to attempt crossing early in the year the two 17 ,ooo-ft. passes dividing Northern Sikkim from Tibet. After much inquiry and consideration it \vas decided this year to try the Sikkim route. Not only does this save the expedition the great rigours of the Phari plain in the early spring, but it is shorter by at least five marches than the old route. The Sebu La and Kongra La are neither steep, narrow nor difficult ; there is no risk whatever 224 MOUNT EVEREST : THE SIXTH EXPEDITION from avalanches and it is extremely unlikely that even an unseason­ able, heavy fall of snow would cause more than a few days' delay. Adequate transport is available from Lachen, and we have in the Maharaja of Sikkim a firm friend and ally who put the whole resources of his staff at our disposal for the collection of transport animals, assembly of provisions, and the necessary repair of roads and bridges. In addition, the expedition received most valuable help from Mr. B. J. Gould, the Political Officer in Sikkim, to whose diplomatic resource we owe the punctual arrival of our passport from the Tibetan Government, and whose hospitality we shall never forget. A strategic and technical plan had of course been discussed at great length long before the expedition left England ; and in a party of such wide experience the methods of discussion and consultation were likely to produce better results than the ex parte decisions of a Fuhrer. With a view, however, to raising such· discussions and consultations above the level of mere ad hoc camp arguments, a kind of staff was formed consisting of the most experienced men Smythe, Shipton, Wyn Harris and Kempson and at a meeting of this staff at Gangtok on March 17 the whole of our problem was reviewed and definite plans were made. I may say that at this and all subsequent meetings of the staff a most excellent spirit prevailed. Argument \vas sub­ ordinated to reasonable discussion, and even the most ardently held personal opinions were modified to obtain the greatest possible measure of common consent. The principal matters settled at the meeting of March 17 were : I. Arrival at Base Camp somewhere about April 24. 2. The establishment of Camp IV on theN. Col about May 22. 3. The formation of three camps above the N. Col instead of two as in the past. 4· The inclusion of a definite oxygen attempt.
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