The U.S. vs. Laxness Attention! Icelandic Surfers Take to the Ocean • Reykjavík Rockers Fight for Their Right to Party Full Schedule Revisiting the Tragedy of República de Cromañón • Daytrips Around Reykjavík Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Info, Music, Arts and Events Issue 2 // 09 February - 08 March 2007 P_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 0_YEAR 05_FEBRUARY_09_MARCH_08 Articles The Reykjavík Grapevine crew 06 The Joy of Failing Miserably The Reykjavík Grapevine An interview with journalist Eric Weiner Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík www.grapevine.is 10 194 young people who just wanted to rock [email protected] Concert disaster in Buenos Aires Published by: Fröken ehf. 12 Think Like a Tourist Editorial Office A column by Gabriele R. Guðbjartsson +354 540-3600 / [email protected] for inquiries regarding editorial content. 19 If David Letterman Only Knew A column by Erik J. Davidek Marketing Office +354 540-3605 / [email protected] 24 Should You Be Eating This? for inquiries regarding advertising, marketing, distribution Grapevine journalist contemplates the annual Þorrablót celebrations and subscriptions. Publisher’s Office Features +354 540-3601 / [email protected] for inquiries regarding this publication. 14 Garage Days Revisited? TÞM’s Fight For The Right To Party The Reykjavík Grapevine Staff Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] 16 Halldór Laxness and the CIA Editor: Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] Was the CIA spying on him? Assistant Editor: Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] Marketing Director: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] Support Manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / [email protected] Essentials Art Director: Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] Photographer: Óskar Hallgrímsson / [email protected] 14 Fiction in the Grapevine: Staff Journalists: Haukur Magnússon / [email protected] The Bell of Iceland by Halldór Laxness Sales staff: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] Distribution: Sæmundur Þ. Helgason / [email protected] Music & Nightlife Proofreader: Jane Victoria Appleton 21 CD Reviews Cover illustration by: Sara Riel On cover: Halldór Kiljan Laxness and the American Eagle 20 Those Crazy Kids, What Will They Think Of Next? Booka Shade at Gaukurinn Printed by: Prentsmiðja Morgunblaðsins printing press # of copies: 30.101. Outside Reykjavík The Reykjavík Grapevine can be found in: Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður, Kárahnjúkar and at key 26 Underground locations around road #1 and at all major tourist attractions and tourist information Exploring the Þingvellir lava fields from the inside out. centres. 27 Short Day Trips Around Reykjavík Are you planning an event? Do you want to tell us something? Send a press release to: [email protected] 28 “As long as there’s surf, we won’t be leaving!” We are always looking for articles. Send your submissions to: [email protected] Grapevine follows a group of local surfers to Þorlákshöfn Are you interested in working for the Reykjavík Grapevine (or the other way Info. around)? If so contact: [email protected] You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. B01 Listings (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’). B08 Food Reviews The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from B09 Bezt í Heimi: Fylgifiskar November through April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this mag- azine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the B10 Ultimate Survival Guide publishers. Although the magazine has endeavoured to ensure that all information inside the magazine is correct, prices and details may be subject to change. B11 Taking Dance to the Extremes Trolls and Transformations in February’s Grand Premiere Subscribe to the Reykjavík Grapevine by visiting www.grapevine.is. Subscription inquiries: [email protected] and +354 540 3605. From the Editor’s Chair Iceland has been gripped with handball age of the tournament and an explanation fishing and have a hard time imagining my- Obviously, sports do not carry the same fever for the past month. The Icelandic of the part Tom Cruise played in the whole self getting worked up over standing waist weight as important political issues in the national team recently participated in the fiasco). deep in a salmon stream. That doesn’t mean grand scheme of things, but let us not for- International Handball Federation World In the wake of the tournament, many I cannot relate to people who do enjoy fish- get that wars have been fought over such Championship, the handball equivalent of Icelanders have felt a little… sad. In Iceland, ing. And I cannot relate to people who feel preferential matters as religion (actually, the FIFA World Cup. Handball is the single it is perfectly reasonable to ponder if there that the results of a sporting competition wars have been fought over sporting results biggest unifier in Iceland. It brings together is life after handball? It ranks right up there carry no weight for people off the field. as well). Does religion carry more weight people of different ages, genders, religions with the other big philosophical questions, Being a sports fan, like much else in than sports? And if you think so, why? and, lately, races. such as: Is there a god? Does life have a life, is about picking sides. You pick a side Allowing yourself to be affected by Unfortunately, the results were not as meaning? Should I stay or should I go? based on individual preference; there is sim- sporting results is another way to affirm and fruitful as many had hoped. Team Iceland Still, it seems that not everyone is of the ply something on one side that appeals to embrace life. It simply means that you care, ended up in eighth place, a respectable re- opinion that handball is a matter of life and you. You enjoy the game and you hope the that you are willing to take sides in life and sult for sure, but a disappointment none- death. There are people who believe that results will be favourable to the team you care about something other than yourself. theless, considering the team lost a game the outcome of handball games, or any oth- support. When they aren’t, you feel disap- To me, that is an admirable quality. against Denmark in the eight-team finals er sporting result for that matter, should be pointed. This is the exact same rationale by the narrowest of margins, in overtime. met with stoic indifference and who fail to that takes place in politics, music, public de- Had the results of that game been differ- understand how this can affect people. That bate, what have you… One side appeals to ent, Iceland would have been in one of the is a gross misunderstanding. I can relate to you more than the other. top four spots. But, such is life in sports (see people who say they don’t particularly en- Denying this is preaching absenteeism www.grapevine.is for more detailed cover- joy sports. I myself do not particularly enjoy and detachment from the world of feelings. 0_RVK_GV_ISSUE 0_007_LETTERS REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 0_007_NEWS_05 Sour Grapes News in Brief Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to [email protected]. Text by Haukur Magnússon, Steinunn Jakobsdóttir and Sveinn Birkir Björnsson. Gabriele Gudbjartson writes “If you Sir Dear Alex, Ousted Manager Splits From ‘Lib- is in the making and will run in the upcoming on the brink of succumbing to such trends. the responses at magni-ficent.com, his offi- do say you are a believer, how well I picked up a copy of your wonder- I applaud in your general direction, eral Party’, Party Then Splits parliamentary elections. The analyst goes on to list some of the vari- cial fan-site, were no less interesting to read. do your actions separate you from fully entertaining and enlighten- too. Bringing in large communities Last weekend’s ‘Liberal Party’ (Frjálslyndi As stated above, dozens of members ous benefits an economy can gain from im- Devastated fans apologized for the “incom- an unbeliever?” The arrogance is ing Grapevine during my recent of misogynistic, backward, ghetto- Flokkurinn) conference saw a lot of action, have resigned from the party since the con- migrants and migrant workers; that they prehensible behaviour of the US govern- breathtaking. Show me one shred four-day stay in Iceland. Of course, folk that reproduce incessantly and as the party’s Vice-President, Magnús Þór ference, but chairman Kristjánsson maintains contribute more to society through taxes ment” among other things. Others offered of evidence that believers are kind- four days were more than enough educate their children to live off Hafsteinsson, narrowly beat his challenger, that there is no split within their ranks. In than they receive from it, and that they usu- to pull some strings and even have a talk er, more generous or more willing for me to become thoroughly ac- Iceland’s generous welfare system ousted Party Manager Margrét Sverrisdót- an interview with ‘Icelandic National Radio’ ally staff jobs that locals are either unwill- with the country’s ambassador. And Icelan- to make sacrifices to help others quainted with the country’s special would be a truly bad idea. Call off tir, in an election for the position with 460 (RÚV) Kristjánsson said that he was sorry to ing or unable to, for instance. Helgadóttir dic devotees of course had their own solu- than atheists. charms and also to understand the boats, close the gates and draw votes against Sverrisdóttir’s 351. Her defeat see Sverrisdóttir and her supporters leave the closes by stating that the Analysis Division tions to the dilemma. One fan wrote: “Sorry Reliogous beleif involves super- immediately the solution to all its the bridge: The backward ghetto- prompted Sverrisdóttir to formally resign party, and that he regrets her decision to do of Kaupþing assesses that the flow of immi- about that Magni.