The U.S. vs. Laxness

Attention!

Icelandic Surfers Take to the Ocean • Reykjavík Rockers Fight for Their Right to Party Full Schedule Revisiting the Tragedy of República de Cromañón • Daytrips Around Reykjavík

Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Info, Music, Arts and Events Issue 2 // 09 February - 08 March 2007 P_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_YEAR 05_FEBRUARY_09_MARCH_08 Articles The Reykjavík Grapevine crew

06 The Joy of Failing Miserably The Reykjavík Grapevine An interview with journalist Eric Weiner Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík www.grapevine.is 10 194 young people who just wanted to rock [email protected] Concert disaster in Buenos Aires Published by: Fröken ehf.

12 Think Like a Tourist Editorial Office A column by Gabriele R. Guðbjartsson +354 540-3600 / [email protected] for inquiries regarding editorial content. 19 If David Letterman Only Knew A column by Erik J. Davidek Marketing Office +354 540-3605 / [email protected] 24 Should You Be Eating This? for inquiries regarding advertising, marketing, distribution Grapevine journalist contemplates the annual Þorrablót celebrations and subscriptions.

Publisher’s Office Features +354 540-3601 / [email protected] for inquiries regarding this publication. 14 Garage Days Revisited? TÞM’s Fight For The Right To Party The Reykjavík Grapevine Staff Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] 16 Halldór Laxness and the CIA Editor: Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] Was the CIA spying on him? Assistant Editor: Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] Marketing Director: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] Support Manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / [email protected] Essentials Art Director: Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] Photographer: Óskar Hallgrímsson / [email protected] 14 Fiction in the Grapevine: Staff Journalists: Haukur Magnússon / [email protected] The Bell of Iceland by Halldór Laxness Sales staff: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] Distribution: Sæmundur Þ. Helgason / [email protected] Music & Nightlife Proofreader: Jane Victoria Appleton

21 CD Reviews Cover illustration by: Sara Riel On cover: Halldór Kiljan Laxness and the American Eagle 20 Those Crazy Kids, What Will They Think Of Next? Booka Shade at Gaukurinn Printed by: Prentsmiðja Morgunblaðsins printing press # of copies: 30.101.

Outside Reykjavík The Reykjavík Grapevine can be found in: Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður, Kárahnjúkar and at key 26 Underground locations around road #1 and at all major tourist attractions and tourist information Exploring the Þingvellir lava fields from the inside out. centres.

27 Short Day Trips Around Reykjavík Are you planning an event? Do you want to tell us something? Send a press release to: [email protected] 28 “As long as there’s surf, we won’t be leaving!” We are always looking for articles. Send your submissions to: [email protected] Grapevine follows a group of local surfers to Þorlákshöfn Are you interested in working for the Reykjavík Grapevine (or the other way Info. around)? If so contact: [email protected] You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. B01 Listings (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’). B08 Food Reviews The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from B09 Bezt í Heimi: Fylgifiskar November through April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this mag- azine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the B10 Ultimate Survival Guide publishers. Although the magazine has endeavoured to ensure that all information inside the magazine is correct, prices and details may be subject to change. B11 Taking Dance to the Extremes Trolls and Transformations in February’s Grand Premiere Subscribe to the Reykjavík Grapevine by visiting www.grapevine.is. Subscription inquiries: [email protected] and +354 540 3605.

From the Editor’s Chair

Iceland has been gripped with handball age of the tournament and an explanation fishing and have a hard time imagining my- Obviously, sports do not carry the same fever for the past month. The Icelandic of the part Tom Cruise played in the whole self getting worked up over standing waist weight as important political issues in the national team recently participated in the fiasco). deep in a salmon stream. That doesn’t mean grand scheme of things, but let us not for- International Handball Federation World In the wake of the tournament, many I cannot relate to people who do enjoy fish- get that wars have been fought over such Championship, the handball equivalent of Icelanders have felt a little… sad. In Iceland, ing. And I cannot relate to people who feel preferential matters as religion (actually, the FIFA World Cup. Handball is the single it is perfectly reasonable to ponder if there that the results of a sporting competition wars have been fought over sporting results biggest unifier in Iceland. It brings together is life after handball? It ranks right up there carry no weight for people off the field. as well). Does religion carry more weight people of different ages, genders, religions with the other big philosophical questions, Being a sports fan, like much else in than sports? And if you think so, why? and, lately, races. such as: Is there a god? Does life have a life, is about picking sides. You pick a side Allowing yourself to be affected by Unfortunately, the results were not as meaning? Should I stay or should I go? based on individual preference; there is sim- sporting results is another way to affirm and fruitful as many had hoped. Team Iceland Still, it seems that not everyone is of the ply something on one side that appeals to embrace life. It simply means that you care, ended up in eighth place, a respectable re- opinion that handball is a matter of life and you. You enjoy the game and you hope the that you are willing to take sides in life and sult for sure, but a disappointment none- death. There are people who believe that results will be favourable to the team you care about something other than yourself. theless, considering the team lost a game the outcome of handball games, or any oth- support. When they aren’t, you feel disap- To me, that is an admirable quality. against Denmark in the eight-team finals er sporting result for that matter, should be pointed. This is the exact same rationale by the narrowest of margins, in overtime. met with stoic indifference and who fail to that takes place in politics, music, public de- Had the results of that game been differ- understand how this can affect people. That bate, what have you… One side appeals to ent, Iceland would have been in one of the is a gross misunderstanding. I can relate to you more than the other. top four spots. But, such is life in sports (see people who say they don’t particularly en- Denying this is preaching absenteeism www.grapevine.is for more detailed cover- joy sports. I myself do not particularly enjoy and detachment from the world of feelings. 0_RVK_GV_ISSUE 02_2007_LETTERS REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_NEWS_0 Sour Grapes News in Brief

Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to [email protected]. Text by Haukur Magnússon, Steinunn Jakobsdóttir and Sveinn Birkir Björnsson.

Gabriele Gudbjartson writes “If you Sir Dear Alex, Ousted Manager Splits From ‘Lib- is in the making and will run in the upcoming on the brink of succumbing to such trends. the responses at magni-ficent.com, his offi- do say you are a believer, how well I picked up a copy of your wonder- I applaud in your general direction, eral Party’, Party Then Splits parliamentary elections. The analyst goes on to list some of the vari- cial fan-site, were no less interesting to read. do your actions separate you from fully entertaining and enlighten- too. Bringing in large communities Last weekend’s ‘Liberal Party’ (Frjálslyndi As stated above, dozens of members ous benefits an economy can gain from im- Devastated fans apologized for the “incom- an unbeliever?” The arrogance is ing Grapevine during my recent of misogynistic, backward, ghetto- Flokkurinn) conference saw a lot of action, have resigned from the party since the con- migrants and migrant workers; that they prehensible behaviour of the US govern- breathtaking. Show me one shred four-day stay in Iceland. Of course, folk that reproduce incessantly and as the party’s Vice-President, Magnús Þór ference, but chairman Kristjánsson maintains contribute more to society through taxes ment” among other things. Others offered of evidence that believers are kind- four days were more than enough educate their children to live off Hafsteinsson, narrowly beat his challenger, that there is no split within their ranks. In than they receive from it, and that they usu- to pull some strings and even have a talk er, more generous or more willing for me to become thoroughly ac- Iceland’s generous welfare system ousted Party Manager Margrét Sverrisdót- an interview with ‘Icelandic National Radio’ ally staff jobs that locals are either unwill- with the country’s ambassador. And Icelan- to make sacrifices to help others quainted with the country’s special would be a truly bad idea. Call off tir, in an election for the position with 460 (RÚV) Kristjánsson said that he was sorry to ing or unable to, for instance. Helgadóttir dic devotees of course had their own solu- than atheists. charms and also to understand the boats, close the gates and draw votes against Sverrisdóttir’s 351. Her defeat see Sverrisdóttir and her supporters leave the closes by stating that the Analysis Division tions to the dilemma. One fan wrote: “Sorry Reliogous beleif involves super- immediately the solution to all its the bridge: The backward ghetto- prompted Sverrisdóttir to formally resign party, and that he regrets her decision to do of Kaupþing assesses that the flow of immi- about that Magni. But we live in Iceland, call stition and irrationality and some- problems (just kidding). societies are upon us yet again! from the party, as did several of her follow- so, stating that her claims that she was be- grant workers to Iceland will mostly depend Valgerður our foreign minester [sic], first times, pure nastiness. These are a I did notice that the issue I read While I refuse to pander to my ers (around two dozen have resigned thus ing forced out of the party were untrue, she on the economy’s demand for them. thing tomorrow morning! I’m not joking! few of the actions of believers: (number 18) carried a number of tremendous urge to make jokes far, and more are expected to follow). The merely lost in a fair fight. He also said that This is, of course, excellent news for those She wants votes!!!” Numerous other sup- In Nicaragua last year, the Cath- articles about the immigration de- on your expense about the useful- conference and its voting process has been the party would respond to her allegations recently outspoken Icelanders concerned porters expressed the same opinion while olic Church led the successful cam- bate. This debate is not unique to ness of building giant, steel walls highly criticised by Sverrisdóttir’s supporters, of an unfair election after meeting with the that an influx of bloodthirsty “Sons of Al- threatening to take serious action if the paign to ban all abortions, even Iceland – many countries are deal- around those backward people- with some claiming that Hafsteinsson’s sup- partys’ Central Committee, although that re- lah” was on its way to destroy civilization as problem wasn’t fixed pronto. where it might save the mother’s ing with similar issues. But for Ice- filled ghettos, I will allow myself to porters were enlisting new party members sponse remains to be seen. we know it. Rather, Icelanders now get to Iceland’s golden boy luckily managed life. land immigration has a special di- say that I am truly appalled by your and paying their fees a full hour after voting Sigurjón Þórðarson, one of the party’s reap the benefits of an underpaid immigrant to procure a visa in the end and can now In the US, Christians have been mension: with its small population, determinist view on human beings commenced. three MPs, wrote on his blog that there was workforce and its tax money without any ob- be found performing cover versions of mid- trying to have Creationism, under it would take only a small number in general. Sverrisdóttir opted to challenge Hafs- no rift between the party and Sverrisdóttir ligations at all! nineties grunge songs in front of adoring au- its new name of Intelligent Design of unsuccessful immigrants to dis- But it’s great that you like our teinsson in the wake of a huge in-party de- over issues, stating that her leaving has more diences. and for which there is no evidence, rupt society’s delicately balanced country, and feel free to come bate that followed Supreme Court lawyer Jón to do with her dislike for some of the party’s taught as an equal alternative to social contract. back as often as you want. You Magnússon and his also-ran political party recent Nýtt Afl additions. Reykjavík Icicle Alert! evolution, for which there is a In my opinion – and I realize that are clearly neither backward nor Nýtt Afl (‘A New Force’) joining Frjálslyndi Mid-January, Reykjavík police issued a warn- Activists Raid London: Tate mountain of evidence. no one has asked for my opinion misogynistic. And you don’t seem Flokkurinn last November. The group’s entry ing on their website, alerting the city’s pe- Modern Unscathed Plenty of churches view homo- – Icelanders should actively seek interested in abusing our generous was marked by a significant change in the Ísafjörður Teen Attacked destrians to stay on the lookout for icicles On New Year’s Day, protesters associated sexuality as a sin, including the out immigrants who identify com- welfare system. party’s stance on immigration issues, with With Car Door falling off ledges, roofs and other high with the group Saving Iceland (savingice- Catholic Church, Anglican churches pletely with Icelandic values (self- HM Magnússon famously running an article en- On a late-January Friday night at 4:45 AM, places. The announcement went on to say land.org) climbed London’s St Paul’s Cathe- in Africa and plenty of US evangeli- reliance, full civil, political and eco- titled ‘Iceland for Icelanders?’ in major news- a teenager walking alongside the Ísafjörður that falling icicles can prove quite dangerous dral and the Tate Modern Art Museum, with cals. Millions are condemned and nomic rights for everyone – women paper Blaðið, spurring many to declare him expressway, Skutulsfjarðarbraut, suffered for unguarded heads, and that homeowners banners to draw attention to the destruction in many countries their lives are in included) and who are anxious to Greetings. I’m happy that I have “Racist!” as the party gained a much wider minor injuries as a hooligan-filled car passing and custodians should take action to clear of wilderness at the hands of the aluminium danger because of something that work hard to advance themselves found your publication, as I like to following than it was used to (going from by knocked him over. According to Ísafjörður any rogue ice off their ledges. As is plainly industry in Iceland and in Trinidad. occurs naturally and not just in hu- and their children and to integrate keep up with what is going on in 2% to 10% in some polls). police, the hooligans opened one of the stated in the 7th article of the Reykjavík po- Strong winds hampered the action at St. mans. into the surrounding society. Don’t Iceland and unfortunately Morgun- It soon became clear that the party was car doors as they passed the unfortunate lice agreement: “The owner or custodian of Paul’s Cathedral, as the big banner could not Many Christians oppose the use try to use immigration to solve the bladid publishes only in Icelandic. I split in its stance towards the new mem- young man, resulting in him being knocked a building is obliged to remove from said be straightened out in a readable manner. of condoms, which are an effective world’s problems. Iceland is small am curious, however, why you refer bers, with some welcoming the increase in to the ground. After being tended to at the building snow and icicles that may fall down Security guards quickly removed the protest- weapon in the battle against AIDS. and the world’s problems are big. to persons in your articles by their following as others tried to quell allegations Ísafjörður hospital, the badly bruised boy was and cause danger to pedestrians.” ers from the Tate Modern. For religous reasons, the US has cut Don’t bring in large communities patronyms instead of their given that they were using racist dialogue to ap- taken to his home for recovery. A picture accompanying the police warn- support to AIDS projects that in- that will reproduce generation af- names after the initial reference. Is peal to uninformed sectors of society. What Ísafjörður police apprehended the 22- ing displayed quite well the dangers that clude the use of condoms. ter generation of their misogynis- it because most Westerners are ac- followed can only be classified as a political year-old driver shortly after the assault, and hanging icicles can pose, as well as how Oil Companies Lose Court Battle And by the way, Christians appro- tic, backward societies in ghettos, customed to that style of address? shitstorm, with Sverrisdóttir, the main critic note in their journals that his car door was some Reykjavík homeowners are ignoring With Reykjavík, Public Transit priated the 25th December, not to educating their children to live for- Thank you for posting your paper. of Nýtt Afl’s entry, being ousted from her quite damaged. The driver reportedly refuses their duties towards society. Iceland’s three major oil companies, Ker, mention the Christmas trees, yule ever off Iceland’s generous welfare It’s good reading. position as Party Manager, followed by her to reveal which one of his passengers opened Olíuverslun Íslands and Skeljungur were or- logs, holly, ivy and mistletoe. They system. If you bring in the right Sincerely, Tom Booker decision to run against sitting VP Hafsteins- the door in question. It remains to be seen if dered recently by Reykjavík district court to are all as pagan as wicker men. people – and by “right people” I son. She also left hints that she might opt further interrogations have persuaded him to Magni Denied pay a fine of 72 million krónur to the city of emphatically do NOT mean people Your guess is absolutely spot-on! to run against the party President, Guðjón reveal the assailant’s identity. Things looked bleak for Rockstar: Supernova Reykjavík, and 5 million to its public transit Andrew Clarke of a certain skin color or religion – We DO refer to persons in our ar- Arnar Kristjánsson after he pledged his sup- It should be noted that the act of “get- contender Magni and his rising music career system, Strætó Bs. The claims were put forth then immigration will make Iceland ticles by their surnames or patro- port to Hafsteinsson, a highly criticised move ting someone with the door” is an oft-told at the beginning of January. Magni, who was on the grounds that the three oil companies Is the lesson, then, that not only a better place for everyone, immi- nyms instead of their given names by some. joke among Icelandic teens on the ‘Rúntur’ supposed to be touring the States with Rock had cheated considerable amounts of money various Christians, but also Athe- grants and old-timers alike. But if after the initial reference because In a declaration announcing her immi- (driving around in circles with friends, a pop- Star: Supernova and the Supernova house from the plaintiffs during a specified period ists, Pagans, Moslems, Buddhists, you bring in the wrong people, you most Westerners are accustomed nent resignation, Sverrisdóttir wrote that “… ular activity in small and large towns alike), band, was stuck in Iceland for the first part of time by illegally consulting on pricing poli- Libertarians, Communists and Free- will saddle yourselves and your chil- to that style of address. If it’s both- Frjálslyndi Flokkurinn MPs and Nýtt Afl’s rep- although there are few documented cases of of the tour because of an incomplete appli- cies. masons – PEOPLE, for short – fos- dren with problems that will never, ering you at all, we might consider resentatives have clearly been trying to push them actually going through with it. cation for a performance visa in the U.S. The city’s and Strætó’s barristers were ter tendencies to be self-righteous ever go away. changing our ways, but this ar- me out of the party’s forefront. In light of the Magni was far from being OK with the quoted as saying that the results were sat- and sanctimonious? And that it is Best of luck to your lovely coun- rangement has worked fine thus methods employed at last weekend’s party situation. On his MySpace, he wrote: “Ok isfactory, even though the court had not suspect to generalize about large try in making the right decision on far. conference, it is clear to me that I can no lon- Immigrants: Not Evil After All? just as if my life isn’t complicated enough ruled in favour of their original, much higher groups of people? I would think this and all other issues you face. I Thank you for your kind words ger work within its ranks. I am sure that my The steadily rising flow of immigrants and (my fault - I know) - my visa application to claim, which amounted to around 140 mil- so! personally cannot wait to get back about our paper and enjoy life, supporters can see as clearly as me that the migrant workers Iceland has seen in the past go on the rockstar tour got denied today!!!! lion krónur. HM for a much longer visit. wherever you find yourself. party abandoned me, rather than me aban- decade or so is actually highly beneficial to It’s my understanding right now that the rea- The “competing” oil companies on the Alex Ragen HM doning the party.” the Icelandic economy, as well as Icelanders son for my denial is that my dear friends on Icelandic fuel market have long been known Jerusalem, ISRAEL She closed by stating that she was by themselves, according to Þóra Helgadóttir, the other end seem to have failed to file the to co-operate with one another when de- no means leaving politics, and was currently a specialist at the Kaupþing Bank (formerly application properly - and so I have to do it ciding prices and such. Some of them re- looking at her options. Her supporters within Búnaðarbanki, KB Bank) Analysis Division. again - this time I’m putting it into the hands sponded to a highly incriminating report by Winner of the December/January Readers’ Survey Lottery is the party then sent out a statement explain- In an interview published in the business sec- of someone I trust… This is bloody irritating the Icelandic Competition Authority a few ing their resignation from Frjálslyndi Flok- tion of Morgunblaðið’s on-line edition, Hel- and I really pisst [sic] because I am so looking years ago (on which the aforementioned kurinn, claiming that the parties’ focal points gadóttir is quoted as saying that an imported forward to having some fun with my friends case is partially based) with an excruciatingly Kate Smith and work methods had changed since Nýtt workforce has been one of the key factors in and see the US - people say it’s nice - I hope embarrassing ad-campaign that had their ex- Afl’s members joined. She has since hinted holding back inflation and over-expansion in I’ll get to agree on that soon!!!” ecutives posing with common pump-jockeys that a new right-wing party, headed by her, the Icelandic economy – one that’s forever His idolaters were pissed off as well and and cleaning ladies. She receives a day trip to Greenland with Air Iceland and a day trip of her own choice from Reykjavík Excursions.

WULFFMORGENTHALER

see more at www.wulffmorgenthaler.com Cappuccino + bagle + yoghurt = 650 kr. 0_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_INTERVIEW/POLITICS

told me that in Iceland you never fall into a black hole, and this is true. There is a sense of belonging that other countries don’t have, and I think that’s a source of happiness for people. It may get a bit claustrophobic at Special offer times, but then that’s what you have the air- port in Keflavík for, so you can get out. I think there’s a reason why Iceland is happier at this moment of time instead of twenty years ago, you’re wealthier and there’s a freedom of movement that maybe wasn’t here for your parents’ generation. So you’ve concluded that Icelanders ac- tually are happier? Yes. Statistically, you have a good combina- tion of capitalistic opportunities and a social safety net. You’re halfway between the U.S. and Europe, geographically, of course, but also in other ways. Culturally. You have the American can-do attitude and entrepreneur- ial spirit, which a lot of European countries lack, and you have the social safety net. Not to say that those things cancel each other out, but we certainly don’t have the same amount of social safety we used to. The extremes are growing. Someone will take a chance and suc- ceed, and that will move them further away from the general population… Next thing you know they’re flying in Elton John to perform at their birthday! That’s a good point, that’s why I think happiness is a fluid thing and there is such a thing as geog- raphy of happiness, it’s geography and points in time. And Iceland, maybe you’re enjoying the success of five or ten years ago. People and nations tend to be their happiest when about to achieve something great, not when they’ve already achieved it. Afterwards, you feel a bit lost; you don’t know what to do next. Right before, that’s a good place to be, and maybe you’ve already passed that curve. Then again, Reykjavík is a good place to be young and artistically inclined right now, bursting with energy, some say. Definitely, and that’s what I’ve been trying to answer, first of all: does that contribute to happiness? And yes, the artistic scene con- tributes to it, but why? The Joy of Failing Miserably, or: Couldn’t you just as well say that having a safe and happy nation would contrib- ute to the artistic scene? Why Icelanders Really Are Happy That’s true. I’ve heard a lot of answers; that Discounts on day tours sense of safety, that it’s OK to fail, the his- tories and the Sagas, which give people Text by Haukur Magnússon Photo by Gulli firm ground to stand on, and the land itself, which for someone like Hilmarsson provides a lot of inspiration. The land shapes the cul- Award winning journalist Eric Weiner has right. B, if so, then why? And C, if there are poser and head of the Ásatrúar sect. He’s a ture, and I think the people in 101 Reykjavík 5% discount for 1 daytour seen a lot of the world. His post as a foreign any lessons for the rest of us, for America, in character, in a good way. Here’s a guy that still have that element of the fisherman in correspondent for respected U.S. radio sta- terms of what they’re doing in Iceland, Swit- composes the most amazing musical scores them, however far removed. But those are tion NPR (National Public Radio) has brought zerland or India; are there any life lessons to for Hollywood, and he’s also a heathen. In all fuzzy concepts. him to over fifty countries, as far as Tokyo be found there. It’s like flipping journalism America that has really negative connota- I’ve chosen three words to frame my 10% discount for 2 daytours and New Delhi, covering a wide range of over, I’m actually looking for the good stuff tions, but over here it’s just another religion trip to Iceland: small, dark and hip. The dark topics including growing tensions in Iraq and in the country. and respected as such. He was interesting, as would be the winter, which some people hate the rise of the Taliban movement in Afghani- Where has your trip taken you, and was just about everyone I’ve met, you know. and others claim to thrive on, citing a beauty stan. Now on leave from some of his journal- why? And why Iceland? You meet a lot of people who’ve done like to the cold, dark winter. This was surprising, 15% discount for 3 daytours istic duties, Weiner is researching a book he I’ve visited, or will visit, The Netherlands, five different things and their CV is all over as the American concept of paradise is more has in the works, entitled ‘The Geography of Switzerland, Iceland, Indian Bhutan, Thai- the place. I think that’s common in Iceland, along the lines of a tropical beach. The small Bliss – One Grump’s Search for the Happiest land, Qatar, Moldova – the least happy coun- and when investigating what makes Iceland- part is, then, the family ties and connections, Places in the World’. And the self-proclaimed try in the world, by the way, I went there ers happier I think one of the main differ- that village feel, which has some negative Tours must be purchased at Reykjavik Excursions grump’s search brought him to Iceland for for comparison. All these happy places were ences lies in that, the flexibility in careers you sides too. And there’s the hipness, this cre- two weeks this January. getting me down, so I went to Moldova and see here. ative thing. Why are there so many writers, sales offices: BSI Bus Terminal, Radisson SAS Hotel Saga, I can tell you, they’re really unhappy there. The possibility of change? filmmakers and artists here? There are cer- Our brochure is available /// What inspired your search for the When I go someplace, I’ll pose the question, Yeah, you don’t get pigeonholed here, and tain periods of history that are hotbeds of Icelandair Hotel Nordica, Icelandair Hotel Loftleidir. happiest places on Earth? And what could I be happy here? I try not to behave you can always start over. And you can fail. creativity, ancient Greece, Florence, maybe at all major hotels and does such a search entail? like a tourist, but not like a journalist either. That’s a big thing I’ve discovered here, that Reykjavík in the nineties was a place like that, One reason is that I’ve been visiting a lot So I set up shop here and pretended to live failure is always an option. And it seems that everything was lined up and the right scene guesthouses. of places where bad things are happening, here for a couple of weeks, not doing tour- Icelanders like failures, people who have for creativity was born. Overall, I’d say that which is what you do as a foreign correspon- isty things. Also, I’ll do some reporting in the failed, the heroic failure. Not that they want you guys are happier than you think you are. dent. I saw some amazing things, but it’s a U.S., look at America, why people move to to fail, but it’s OK to fail. You take care not to say it too loudly. depressing job, because by definition you’re certain cities, and why they are considered Wouldn’t that be a result of the Social But you’ve been interviewing a very pretty much going to places where people the most liveable. Democratic system that has been preva- specific portion of the population, art- are unhappy. Where they’re killing one an- And that’s all based on…? lent in Scandinavia, and is rather on the ists and journalists, mainly, rather than SIA.IS KYN 35667 01.2007 other, dying of disease. And if you go to a I partly base my criteria on happiness re- decline? the farmers and factory workers. ÍSLENSKA happy country, you look for the tensions, search. I am in Iceland mainly because the Yeah, that is a part of it. Is the trend towards Yes, I have. I’m not trying to be comprehen- where things are falling apart. That’s where surveys consistently show that Iceland ranks fewer benefits these days? Even still, com- sive, and I haven’t gone to villages and talked journalism is; we’re negatively oriented. as one of the top three happy countries in pared to the U.S., you’re working with a net. to fishermen. I’ve talked to the people who And this gets depressing. About a year the world. Denmark scores a little higher, We’re working without one. Ironically, Amer- work at my hotel, but you’re right, I am look- ago, I thought to myself, why am I travel- but I thought Iceland was more interesting, ica is supposed to be the land of opportunity ing at a slice of the demography. But I still ling halfway around the world to interview and it’s more counter-intuitive. Iceland is a and risk-takers, but the system is actually set think that underlying with anyone I’ve talked people that are more miserable than myself, more interesting country than Denmark, and up to discourage risks, to discourage some- to is a good, positive and mentally healthy which is basically what I do for a living. So I then you have the artistic scene, which you one from quitting their job at the insurance attitude. You have all the ingredients; you’re thought, what if I spent a year only travelling really don’t have in Denmark to such an ex- company to become an artist, because then a wealthy country, a fairly humanitarian one, to the happiest countries and got a publisher tent. You’ve got some weird characters too, they won’t have health insurance and a net. a creative one... It’s sort of like all the stars Booking phone: Tel: (+354) 562 1011 www.re.is e-mail: [email protected] to pay me for it? That’s what I’ve been doing, strange people that make for some interest- But I don’t think the differences in welfare are lined up for a happy country. travelling to about a dozen countries, trying ing stories. systems tell the whole story. to figure out if they really are happy. If A, Take Hilmar Örn Hilmarsson, who I just There’s also the familial safety net. the surveys and ‘science of happiness’ are met for the second time. He’s a musical com- That’s true. One of the people I interviewed 0_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_POLITICS/ELECTIONS 2007

Should Iceland Pursue a Seat in the United Nation’s Security Council? In the build up to the 2007 parliamentary elections, The Reykjavík Grapevine will be asking representitives from each of the political parties to answer questions regarding the most pressing issues.

Sæunn Stefánsdóttir Candidate for the Progressive Party xB Yes, I think we should. In the United Nation’s char- national relations. has been on respect for international law, human ter, the Security Council is given the main respon- I’m therefore convinced that such candidature rights and democracy; respect and tolerance in in- sibility of retaining peace and security in the world. would strengthen Iceland’s position in the interna- ternational relations and the importance of facing As members of the United Nations for more than tional arena and take care of Iceland’s interests in threats against security in the widest context, espe- 60 years we are bound to contribute to pursuing foreign affairs, and other Nordic countries interests cially regarding individuals’ safety and connection these main goals. Therefore it is time to take full ac- as well, as our candidature is Nordic. between development and peace building. The tion and apply for a seat on the Security Council. If Iceland is elected and takes a seat in the UN importance of considering the needs of women in My opinion is actually that Iceland’s candidature Security Council I am convinced that we have a war-torn areas and in peacekeeping has also been on the Security Council isn’t a goal in itself but a valid role in being there. Iceland is a peaceful nation stressed, which I find very important as women are logical continuation of the development in secur- and doesn’t have any complex interests to protect often victims of conflicts, directly and indirectly. ing Iceland’s foreign interests, with an active par- around the globe. Therefore we have credibility and ticipation in international cooperation, not least in we will be listened to. the United Nations. As a prosperous and sovereign Iceland’s emphasis in the candidature focuses nation we have a duty to take responsibility in inter- on these facts and I like it. There, the emphasis

Ármann Kr. Ólafsson Candidate for the Independence Party xD It is tempting for a nation like Iceland, with only indicated that there was broad support for that The question here was: Should Iceland apply 300 thousand inhabitants, to get a seat on the decision. Support from the Nordic countries was for a seat in the UN Security Council? Security Council and have a profound influence known in advance, and usually that should be The status now is that Iceland has done that and on the development of world affairs. In short, enough. Later on, Turkey also made a claim for a if we get the seat we have to be careful that we this influence, could help present our good seat and therefore Nordic solidarity is no guaran- will be listened to. We can’t just present some causes in the international community. We can’t tee for Iceland’s plans becoming a reality, seeing general goals. Iceland’s initiative has to be to re- forget though that the five member states who that three states want the two seats available. view specific matters concerning individual na- have permanent seats on the Security Council - The struggle for the seat will therefore become tions. What the international community gains Britain, The United States, France, China and Rus- really expensive, as would membership itself. by our membership is that we don’t have any sia hold veto power which underlines the great In my opinion it is possible to achieve many no- interests vested in the states the Councils powers imbalance between real powers of influence in ble goals with systematic work-methods and less are, for the most part, governed by and we can the Council. expenditure than by joining the Security Council. arrive fresh to the table. When Iceland pursued a seat on the Security Here we can point to specific projects in the field Council for the term 2009 to 2010, everything of human rights, development and welfare aid.

Magnús Þór Hafsteinsson Candidate for the Liberal Party xF The chapter addressing foreign affairs in the and education. We can’t see how it can be jus- Liberal Party’s political proposal, which was ac- tifiable to spend hundreds of millions just to un- cepted at the party’s national convention held dergo such world-power dreams and ambitions. January 26th and 27th, reads as follows: In our opinion, that amount is better spent on “The Liberal Party declares that it is against other projects and humanitarian issues.” Iceland’s application for a seat in the United Na- tion’s Security Council and criticizes the amount of money spent already. We in the Liberal Party are opposed to Ice- land applying for a member seat on the Security Council and think that the money supposed to be wasted in applying would be better spent in developing aid for states and ethnic groups that need guidance and help to pursue a better life

Guðmundur Steingrímsson Candidate for the Social Democratic Alliance xS No, I see little reason for that. Participating is ex- I don’t feel we have a specific business in the unique position – I think we could possibly have pensive and I think the money would be better Security Council is because the nation’s foreign some purpose in the Security Council, as an es- spent elsewhere. Besides, it is hard to see what policy has been deeply abject in recent years, if sential voice. But sorry to say, this isn’t the voice we are meant to do in the Security Council. I sus- not always. We have gone along with the United Icelandic government uses when addressing for- pect that what we have here is the extravagant States far too much, as can be seen in the gov- eign affairs. As long as this is the case, we have ambition of a few people who rushed in on this ernment’s support of their invasion in Iraq. We no business in joining the Security Council except without asking a single soul. It has never been ex- have presented an independent foreign policy far for drinking cocktails and chatting with powering plained well enough why on earth it is supposed to rarely. Icelandic authorities emphasized disar- nations to be important for us to join the Security Council mament on open waters by the time of the Cold with all the expenses attached. War, but any other examples are hard to find. The diplomatic service’s strengths would If we, on the other hand, had adopted an in- come to better use in other projects, in devel- dependent, unique and noteworthy foreign poli- opment aid for example or to support Icelandic cy, which would emphasize pacifism and the fact interests in foreign trading. The main reason why that this nation has no army – a fact that gives us

Katrín Jakobsdóttir Candidate for the Left-Green Movement xV It is natural for an independent nation with some tion take the initiative in working against climate ing the Security Council and it’s plainly a waste to ambition in international issues to want a seat on change and, in that field, Icelanders could have a spend hundreds of millions in such process. the Security Council. But then, the purpose has significant role if there were the political will to The main issue in foreign affairs should be to to be clear. What business has Iceland in the Se- adopt a new environmental policy. change this policy. Before we do that, we have curity Council? On the other hand, it is hard to see what Ice- no business in the Security Council or any other An issue Icelanders should address in this as- landers are planning to do in the Security Coun- international institutions where important deci- sembly is respect for international law, increased cil if the present foreign policy does not change, sions are made. emphasis on peace-building and unconditional where we would always look to the American denunciation of war-invasions of any kind. We representative before passing a vote. That’s how can also point out more initiative in international Iceland’s foreign policy has been in reality; uncon- environmental affairs, such as climatic change, ditional support of Uncle Sam, probably reaching which will by all likelihood become the biggest its peak with our support of the pointless and security issue in the future. bloody war in Iraq in 2003. While we still follow It’s really important that a responsible na- such foreign policy we have no business in join- 10_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_MUSIC/TRAGEDY

194 Young People Who Just Wanted to Rock

Text and photo by Jade Augusto Gola

Concert disaster is a good chance to under- two years before; and the exterior roof in- get its musical scene back, and people start- gentinian soul. A sanctuary was built close to stand a little of Argentina tended for expelling toxic air was covered ed travelling on weekends to other cities in the venue for the victims with chairs, post- with two soccer fields (!). Among the dead Buenos Aires province, such as Mar del Plata, ers, homages and altars. People come there The main concept of tourism for young peo- were a few children of the employees, who to party. to pray, cry, remember, think and leave per- ple in Brazil is the search for cheap places took their kids to the place because it was a sonal belongings, letters, gifts and the like that are completely different from the typi- holiday. District Rock (a mother left a pack of Marlboro close her cal national identity. This New Year’s holiday I watched a retrospective about Cromañón son’s picture). The space functions as a per- I thought it would be perfect to fly to Buenos Punishment on a local TV news station. In an interview manent cemetery where people can express Aires, a city that feels European, filled with Osmar Chabán, Cromañón’s owner, was im- with the TV station, a young rocker said that not only their views, but mainly their sad- beautiful people, good food and cheap cur- mediately accused. A famous local promoter he and some friends would fight against ness. A cop told me it’s common for people rency (thanks to our über-valorized reais). It and stage person since the 80s, he helped the restriction of fires at concerts, because who are sad for any reason to go there to was also the anniversary of the tragedy at shape the Buenos Aires rock scene as it is to- “it was part of a culture”. Argentines are sit and cry, seeking solace in the company Plaza Once, where 194 died (including ba- day: hard guitars in pop tracks, extreme com- as attached to their traditions as they are of the victim’s families and sensible “b-side” bies, one of them only ten months old) and petition among the bands and huge concerts to good wine and barbecues. The rock au- tourists. It’s almost impossible not to feel 714 were injured in a fire in República de with pyrotechnics. While Chabán has been dience behaviour can, in some ways, be depressed visiting the space, and the way Cromañón, one of the five biggest night- jumping from prison to prison for the past compared with soccer hooligans. The bands Argentines deal with the loss and the sad- clubs in Buenos Aires. Two years after the two years, investigators have found ghost come from the suburbs, bringing with them ness is almost poetic. It is not by chance they second biggest non-natural disaster in Ar- companies created by Chabán, intended to young neighbours supporting the guys who have the tango and the highest number of gentina, Plaza Once is as much alive as it has clean up dirty money. So far, he is the only grew up in the same distant area, loving only psychologists per capita in the world. ever been with protests, marches and shouts one who has been arrested in relation to the THAT band, and no other. It is district rock, In the building, protest paintings, post- for justice on the “porteño” streets. incident. There are 17 more people awaiting something that conservatives would even ers and lots of burnt Converse All-Stars hang On a still night on December 30, 2004, trial in early 2008, including the band mem- call “gangs”. Callejeros came from the poor on a rope, the official symbol of the tragedy. the band Callejeros (Spanish for “streetwise”) bers. Villa Celina. While they have been chastised The text “Los Pibes Solo Querian a el Rock” were playing at the República de Cromañón The investigations lead to the resigna- for being opportunistic and irresponsible, (The people only wanted to rock) inscribed nightclub for an audience of 3000 people, tion of Aníbal Ibarra, mayor of Buenos Aires, they are also, somehow, victims of the fire: on several of them makes this “symbol” look when a pyrotechnic flare set fire to a plastic- mainly because of his suspected links with the singer lost his fiancée and the guitarist like a morbid art installation. Another sym- net roof. The panic spread while a huge toxic Chabán and for not attending to any of the four relatives. bol of Cromañón is a sign with “Prohibido black cloud formed. Most victims died from 40 alerts about the awful situation in several In 2005, any intentions for the band’s Olvidar” (Never Forget), that made me think asphyxia and burning of respiratory organs Buenos Aires venues, including Cromañón. comeback were ruined by a noisy protest by about Brazil. Rather than glamourizing sad- All back issues available online by carbon monoxide and cianidric acid. Oth- Anibal and Chabán are the two main vil- an association of victims’ families. The band ness, Argentina really preserves what hap- ers died from burns and from being crushed lains called “¡ASESINOS!” (murderers) in all members are often called murderers and at- pens in its history. The cliché aphorism about in the middle of the choas, some of them marches, including the recent two-year an- tacked on the streets. Furthermore, no man- us Brazilians, “Brazil has no memory”, is 1400 articles, listings and daily news from Iceland having come back into the club to rescue niversary protest in Plaza de Mayo. ager or promoter wants the “fire band” in sometimes true: a plane crashed here a few friends. The official capacity of Cromañón A judge accused the Callejeros of “the their venue. It was only in July 2006 that they months ago killing 150 people and we don’t was 1300 people, and four of the six emer- promotion of pyrotechnics with absolute returned to the stage, as guests of a famous even know if they have families mourning gency doors were locked with padlocks so disrespect for physical health of its fans”. band they were friends with. The rock crowd them! It’s the price we pay for being “the attendants couldn’t come in without paying. They deny all charges but some witnesses remain the staunchest supporters of Calleje- Latin-American country of the future!” – we In Argentina, flares have always been have said that they wanted fire that night, ros, including the music media. “It was the end up without a past. used in rock concerts, just as much as in even helping people to get into Cromañón biggest penal discussion in Argentina’s his- When I left the Cromañón sanctuary, I WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS soccer matches, with the same passion and through backdoors, far from the security. tory but some tried to divert it to the rock noticed one more sign that serves as a final cathartic intensity. The fact that the person Others say that three little kids ignited the field: to its musicians, audience, and media”, note on this travesty. A hundred metres from responsible for lighting the flare has never flare, some claim it was the stage assistant. said the last Argentinian edition of the Roll- the venue, a huge advertisement, the only been found is not the most tragic aspect of The truth will probably never be known. ing Stone, with a huge six-page-interview coloured thing in Plaza Once, reads: FUEGOS this episode. It is the neglect that is fright- In the wake of the tragedy, all clubs and with Chabán. ARTIFICIALES JÚPITER (Júpiter Pyrotechnics). ening: the old brown classic building didn’t stages in Buenos Aires were closed and they It is stupidly ironic, if not sad. Arts | Music | Movies | Dining | Shopping | Traveling have exterior ventilation; ten of the fifteen could only be reopened when proper docu- Sanctuary fire-extinguishers were not pressurized; the mentation and new safety and fire systems The Cromañón ashes are now a perfect ve- Jade Augusto Gola is the asst. editor of Interviews | Local Voice | Columns | Features | Lifestyle | Editorials club’s fire inspection certificate had expired were in place. It took months for the city to hicle for a foreigner to comprehend the Ar- www.rraurl.com in São Paulo, Brazil 12_RVK_GV_02_2007_OPINION Think Like a Tourist By Gabriele R. Gudbjartsson

be the busiest place in town where life completely changes her ward- robe after 10 pm. I, on the other, hand prefer the traditional alternative of being en- tertained – by professionals who at least appear to be sober while performing their God-given talent. Live jazz music on a random Tuesday night, discovering an authentic new Middle Eastern restaurant with old friends or catching a dynamic play or show that won’t be in town too long are some of the things I miss doing without having to sacrifice a quarter of my salary. Although it is quite unfair to compare New York and Reykjavik in the category of entertainment, I do wish the in- I don’t drink and the smell of dustry could be more creative in its smoke makes me want to wear a business ventures when it comes to gas mask. And just for the sake amusement activities. By the sheer of confusion, no, I am not a nun. number of bars compared to any Based on my “unique lifestyle” and other form of late night diversions, standard appetite for mental, au- it is clear what product is valued dio and visual stimulation, at times most by consumers and commerce I feel stuck between a rock and a alike. hard place when it comes to mak- In order to feel entertained in ing weekend plans. I have done this city, thinking like a tourist is my share of frequenting the cin- beneficial because you are forced ema and bowling to funky sounds to think of outings that promote an We deliver it clean. from the disco era and frankly, I’m experience to remember, therefore a bit tired of the whole scene. In making each event worthwhile and my position, one has to be quite devoid of anything routine and or- creative in choosing leisurely activi- dinary. When I lived in New York ties on the weekends in Reykjavik. City I used to ask native New York- Thinking of ways to “seize the day” ers all the time if they had ever been Have a dirty time! has become quite a challenge, and to the Statue of Liberty, climbed since being surrounded by the in- the steps all the way to the top of (Book our nice prices at www.sixt.is or call 540 2222) toxicated or smelling like an ashtray her crown and looked out over the the morning after is not scripted in Hudson River. Most people had the my daily journal, my only option at same answer – no, but I live here, this point is to change my frame of so I can go anytime. reference. Unfortunately after September When the decision was made 11th, that golden opportunity to to move from New York City to stand atop Lady Liberty has been Reykjavik I knew I would be faced taken away and now that mem- with the dilemma of limited en- ory only exists for the millions of tertainment options. Relocating to people that have simply “passed any new environment requires ad- through” New York City. Thinking justing to a whole new social set- like a tourist gives you the motiva- ting, and to avoid wallowing away tion and energy to do things you in the sea of regret I had to take wouldn’t ordinarily do. However, a look around and really recognize as a resident we often forget to what Iceland had to offer. In order take advantage of the jewels of our to have a satisfying social life I had distinctive surroundings and, like to think outside of box and adapt many New Yorkers, we miss the a nomadic perspective. Sometimes boat altogether. Customers of Kaupthing can receive online service in four languages. Business in Kaupthings we need to adopt the mindset of Just last week a friend and I a temporary wanderer to soak up visited the National Gallery of Ice- Netbank can be conducted in four languages: Icelandic, English, Danish and Polish. and appreciate the precious time land to see the French Expression- we have while existing in such a ist Exhibition. Taking an afternoon Access to Kaupthings Netbank is free. Drop by your Kaupthing branch to apply for your own unique place. to surround oneself with the works password. Then you can conduct your banking transactions on the Kaupthing Netbank and speak The majority of weekend enter- of the masters definitely provides a the language you prefer. tainment that Reykjavik’s “down- break from the monotony of daily town” has to offer consists of an routine. It was a Wednesday after- Kaupthings Netbank is simple and comfortable – any time, anywhere. available seat or private corner noon and although the museum to stand in, an expensive glass of was quite empty I felt like a tourist liquid courage and blaring beats appreciating what the city had to Flersproget bankservice Bankowość internetowa vibrating from the speakers of a offer. There was also a slight feel- Kaupthings Netbank på fire sprog w czterech językach fairly lavish sound system. There- ing of privilege in taking a moment fore the entertainment portion of to value such talent in the midst of Kaupthings kunder kan få service på nettet og ordne Klienci Kaupthing mogą korzystać z usług internetow- the evening is left solely up to the work and running errands. Adapt- deres bankforretninger på fire sprog: islandsk, engelsk, ych w czterech językach. Operacje w Kaupthings Netbank consumer and the magical anti- ing this new perspective in thinking dansk og polsk. przeprowadzać można w języku islandzkim, angielskim, dote concocted by the slaving bar differently about what I do with my duńskim oraz polskim. tender behind the counter. Hence- time has made life much more in- Adgangen til Kaupthings Netbank er gratis. Det eneste forth, you find yourself not exactly teresting and enjoyable. My advice du skal gøre, er at kigge ind i den nærmeste filial af Kaupthing og få lavet et password. Derefter kan du ordne Dostęp do Kaupthings Netbank nie wymaga opłat. Wystarczy being entertained, but often being from all this is to take the time to dine bankforretninger i Netbanken i fred og ro på det odwiedzić swój oddział Kaupthing i wystąpić o indywidualne the focal point of the show itself. be creative and seize the day be- sprog du ønsker. hasło. Można wtedy prowadzić wszystkie operacje w ramach Even still, weekend after weekend fore the day ends up seizing you. ENNEMM/SÍA/NM25710 Kaupthing Netbank w wybranym przez siebie języku. downtown Reykjavik continues to Kaupthings Netbank er en simpel og nem måde at ordne bankforretninger på —hvor og hvornår det skal være. Kaupthings Netbank jest prosty i wygodny – zawsze i wszędzie.

The only guide that tells you the talk of the swimming pools, how to find the best cafes, how to recover from all night parties, an A to Z of Icelandic music and what "Viltu kaffi?" can really mean. Travel Guides Can Be Honest. Really

Available at your nearest bookstore WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS

NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS 14_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_FEATURE/MUSIC/HOUSING REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_FEATURE/MUSIC/HOUSING_15

Fight Fire With Fire way into the owners’ pockets. The two en- …Still Don’t Get It ers (Utangarðsmenn) I’ve seen an economy Lanky 19-year-old student Benjamin Mark tities are entirely unconnected. “The house Says Birkir Fjalar Viðarsson, not afraid to raise build up around rock.” Garage Days Revisited? Stacey is quick to agree with Pollock’s senti- needs to be sold, the owners [sic] are already his voice: “I know kids will always find ways And there’s still room for one more com- ment. His band, Sudden Weather Change, in minus and the need to sell it to bring the to play their rock if they want it bad enough. parison to the sports movement: “It takes have been honing their craft at TÞM for little debt to zero. Then we’ll rent it off the new But if we really want this scene to flourish, a tremendous amount of money to run a Text by Haukur Magnússon Photos by Skari under a year, and he even took on a part-time owners while we develop this further and I believe some support is in order. There’s sports arena, but it’s used consistently. And job as an attendant there. He says he spends then find a bigger, larger location when the more room for creation if you’ve got a de- we use this more than that is used, ‘cause most of his free time at TÞM and that he time comes. There are bands waiting for a cent space to create in and some resources. there’s something going on here from noon Tónlistarþróunarmiðstöðin, a rehearsal space been hanging out there a whole lot. Íslands entitled ‘Steel Meets Steel’, have been “There are no rules, that’s the only rule,” has witnessed many exciting happenings at space here right now.” And I’ve learned through my work with teen- ‘til midnight, sometimes all night long, con- and concert venue, hosts fifty bands that op- Comfortable and safe practice spaces, a steadfastly ignored by city and government Pollock says. While that’s strictly speaking not the premises since he started going last year. agers [Viðarsson works as a counsellor in a stantly. And we’re really only getting 20% erate in the Reykjavík area. It has been a ha- bunch of 40m2 rooms each shared by 2-3 officials alike. So it’s likely that this valiant ef- completely true (there is, for instance, a total “The metal bands are incredibly diligent at 5-4 = UNITY Reykjavík youth community centre] that for of what we need right now. The people in ven for fledgling musicians for close to four bands, are TÞM’s biggest draw. Bands are fort will come to a close sometime during the ban on the use of intoxicants on the prem- throwing concerts, they do an excellent job The responsible officials are finally starting to every kid that’s into sport, there’s a kid who’s charge need to understand the possibilities, years now. Due to a lack of funding, it will unpopular tenants in Reykjavík’s garages, next six months and those 50 bands, those ises), TÞM seems more about offering these at that. And, you know, it’s a nice place to take notice, according to Pollock, although into being in a band, going to shows and fol- that this is an important thing that needs likely close down for good sometime over which are commonly over-priced, under 200-plus musicians, will thus soon be on the kids a place and the freedom to do their own hang out and meet people.” As he tells me that has yet to bear any fruit. Meetings with lowing his favourite groups around. to be supported. That this is for the future. the next few months. The Reykjavík Grape- heated and vulnerable to burglars wanting prowl for garages and basements. Not to thing than preaching the values of hard work this, a tall, longhaired blonde dude passes, government officials are lined up, and Pol- “Literally thousands of youths in Iceland Otherwise, these groups will end up on the vine paid a visit. to make a quick few thousand króna. Even mention a kick-ass concert venue. and clean living. If those get transferred along a whole three guitars strapped to his torso. lock seems hopeful that they will turn in prefer this hobby to sports. And the lack street.” those places are hard to come by. TÞM’s Although things seem bleak at the mo- the way, then that’s all the better. “There are A shorter dude deftly follows him, lugging some positive results. “The city council re- of support for their dreams and aspirations Standing in the corridors of Tónlistarþróu- practice spaces are relatively available and ment, TÞM manager Daniel Pollock seems guidelines, but we mainly demand that the drums. Always something going on. ceived many, many e-mails from all sorts of makes me feel kinda like officials are ignoring I Wanna Rock! narmiðstöðin (‘The Music Development Cen- they’re monitored by a security service, so unabashedly optimistic when we meet for bands show each other and themselves some An hour earlier, Pollock explained TÞM’s people regarding this, somewhere around the needs of one of their kids, while pamper- When leaving TÞM after a long conversation tre’ or TÞM) on a given Sunday afternoon can their popularity is understandable. For these a conversation in his very own TÞM practice respect. That’s a key factor. There are other current financial plight, and that if govern- 3,000. We have 700 union members, aside ing the other. Other Scandinavian countries with Daniel Pollock, I am drawn to the sounds be an unnerving experience. First of all, there’s amenities, and others, bands will pay 25.000 space. Pollock is a rocker in his own right, places to drink, we play our music here, we mental and municipal authorities reject their from all the other artists and foreign bands have been providing support for these activi- of someone wailing metal on an electric gui- the relentless banging of many drums. Count- ISK per month. making a name for himself playing along- do this kinda shit here… if you want to do call for support they will have to close down that have performed here, so we have ties for decades. The idea of TÞM is old-hat tar, spewing out riffs and licks that tickle my less Dave Lombardo disciples kicking the shit side his brother Michael and pop star Bubbi the other thing, then you’ve got to go some- in a matter of months. He tells me they are a group. And there’s power in unity, we there, and has given various results, hell, even inner Slayer-fanboy. I cautiously enter and out of their hard-earned kits, an aggressive Hardly Getting Over It Morthens, among others, in Iceland’s infa- where else. This is a place of creation, work, asking for 12 million ISK in support annually, have a political force of sorts, with parents, stimulated the economy. If the state wants am confronted with a couple of longhaired arrhythmia pounding its way through your One of TÞM’s more popular features, espe- mous punk pioneers Utangarðsmenn. He is, and the kids respect that. which is half the yearly cost of running the grandparents and concertgoers. I calculate to partake in various recreational activities, Spicoli-ish dudes ragging on their Flying-V’s skin, inducing sweat and anxiety. Then there cially among the all-ages crowd, is a spacious as always, working on a multitude of musical “Everybody needs a place to do what facilities. “I’ve been working on this project that somewhere around 30,000 people that’s fine, I’m all for that, but they can’t be and Dime’ model Deans. They have huge are guitars, so many guitars, all distorted and concert venue, Hellirinn (‘The Cave’), which endeavours while overseeing TÞM’s day-to- they’re gonna do, and there’s so few places for five years and we keep telling them the pass through here annually. Responses have hypocritical and pander to one half and not amps. They are shy boys, and comprise the muffled, coupled with the steady rumbling can play host to up to 300 patrons and offers day activities and searching for ways to keep left,” he continues. “This scene has always same thing year after year, over and over been getting better, but they’re still up and the other. That’s unfair and unreasonable.” guitar section of two-year-old thrash-metal of capricious bass players trying their best to a slew of professional PA and lighting equip- it in operation. He seems more interested in been so disorganized, but now we have this again. We’ve gotten the best responses so down because this is new and they don’t An assumption one could make at this band Blood Feud. They write lyrics about se- bring down houses. And at first it all sounds ment most garage bands have a hard time talking about the various projects TÞM has collective here and we can get things done far this year, but then come the other com- know how to take it. But I think they’re fi- point is that Reykjavík’s interest in all things rial killers, and God. They love it here, and like so much static, but you manage to make gaining access to. “It’s just a real comfortable spurred and its ambitious plans for the fu- more easily, pass the information along, ex- plications, ‘cause we are in major debt and nally getting it through their heads that this rockin’ has finally grown to the level that de- they love playing music, their band practices out a tune through the rubble: in one of these place to play,” says Birkir Fjalar Viðarsson, ture, than any problems with running it, al- change ideas and help each other make them we need to sell the house. Then some coun- is a very important part of the local culture, mands action and support on behalf of the three times every week, and they hope to rooms, someone’s aptly ploughing through frontman of local hardcore legends I Adapt, though those concerns inevitably get aired. a reality. And we’re seeing some results. Bands cil members might think that the owners and will only grow in importance as time powers that be, not unlike what happened get in even more practice time in their new, Cindy Lauper’s ‘True Colors’. who’ve played close to a dozen shows there. that work or have worked here run their gam- of the house [actually Pollock himself, and progresses.” with the sports movement early in the 20th less-crowded room. Soon, they will record “It’s the best all-ages venue available in the Expendable Youth bit all around town, Iceland Airwaves, Culture a business associate] will make a tremen- Twelve million ISK annually may seem century. There are enough kids with fresh their demo. And they fund their hobbies It was beautiful. area. Throwing a show at Hellirinn means Pollock claims TÞM has had some very posi- Night, whatever is going on, they come and dous amount of money. That’s fucked up, steep for some, but compared to the pub- guitars, drums, keyboards and basses out with their summer-jobs. Founded in March of 2003, TÞM has been you can concentrate on just playing the tive effects on the Reykjavík music scene and go. Look at Airwaves, the bands were better but the owners are businesspeople, we [the lic funding some other hobbies receive, it’s there that want to pursue their passions that “Of course our dream is to get to play going strong for over four years now, hosting music. It’s free of all the hassle that comes its participants, not least the youngsters who prepared this time around than ever.” TÞM organization] have never owned any- only a drop in the ocean of, say, the hun- an overhead organization such as TÞM is music all the time, tour the world. We’re a myriad of concerts by nearly every damn with playing bars and the like, renting a PA, are entering the field and need help realizing And he believes it’s a result of some of thing, we’ve always rented. That’s the way it dreds of millions poured into the heavily sorely needed. And TÞM is providing steady working on that. We’ve played four shows band operating in Iceland (and some visiting having your equipment stolen, dealing with their visions and ideas. This is echoed by the their experiences at TÞM. “It’s almost like a should be done.” disputed symphony hall under construction ground now, with years of experience and here in Hellirinn, and one at Kaffi Amster- ones too). It has provided many of them with shitty sound and annoyed staff.” kids I speak to while there, and on numerous rock and roll high school, we get people here What Pollock is perhaps confusingly in downtown Reykjavík. Grapevine’s corre- know-how, not to mention passion for the dam. The difference is great; the sound in much needed space to rehearse, grow, turn Plans are also underway to install a pro- on-line chat boards. It might be said that aside who don’t know anything about getting a referring to is the fact that the area which spondents from the music scene also con- work, already there. Pollock concurs: “This Hellirinn and all the gear provided is awe- their hobbies and tinkerings into concrete fessional recording facility on the premises from the practice spaces and concert venue, good live sound, setting up a show, but af- TÞM is based in, Grandi, has recently been sistently point to public funds earmarked is a golden opportunity, and if people look some. At Amsterdam, we get beer however, structures, albums, blissful shows; untold that would serve as a haven for fledgling mu- TÞM also offers a resource for bands in other ter practicing here and associating with their named as a likely candidate for being devel- for sports activities. But not bitterly, they at the big picture over a long term, they will so that’s good.” hours of pure, clean fun with friends. It acts sicians making their first forays into commit- respects. Advice from some of the veteran peers they get familiar with the tools of the oped into a residential area, thereby driving all just seem to feel that their respective find that something like this is needed, and I ask them how they would feel if TÞM as a home to fifty bands of all styles and incli- ting their sounds to plastic. That might not musicians operating there is often invaluable, trade. Those with the experience will pass it property values up considerably. While this hobby deserves the same amount of sup- we have it right here, now. A whole indus- closed down. “Man, well, that would fuck- nations (although rock is surely the predomi- happen, however, as TÞM could be seeing its according to Pollock. He says that a camara- on, give guidance and answer questions but means that he and his business associate will port the others seem to warrant. Lest we try can build around this, whether it be with ing suck.” nant form), so it can be assessed that well last months of operation, as the organization derie and community is formed with the mu- that’s the extent of it. You still have to do it likely get a fair amount of money when they forget, the City of Reykjavík and the whole instrument stores, repair shops, sound engi- over 200 people, mainly youngsters, employ behind it is waist-deep in debt. Repeated sicians, them bouncing ideas around and find- yourself, with all the freedom that entails. sell the house, the partnership is still not of Iceland continually take pride in a vibrant neers, studios… there are so many aspects it to their benefit. Many of the great acts you calls for added public funding, most recently ing inspiration from one another, all under the That’s the best way.” connected with TÞM and its operation, and music scene and use it to their benefit, for to this if you expand the scope to 10 or 20 saw at last year’s Airwaves festival, they’ve with a giant all-day concert event at Listasafn tenet of mutual respect. no funding earmarked for TÞM will find its instance in marketing Iceland to foreigners. years. Even since I started with The Outsid- 16_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_FEATURE/ESPIONAGE REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_INFO_ISSUE 02_2007 info. Incubus and Mínus Rock the House Food and Fun Festival in Reykjavík Alex Zaklynsky An Exhibition About Us Emilie Simon, Air and a Grand French Film Festival French Spring in Iceland Reykjavík Underworld Taking Dance to the Extremes Music, Art, Films and Events Listings

(transformation) The Icelandic Dance Company gets ready for the premiere pose. B2_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 02_2007_LISTINGS Music Art Films Events Music Art Films Events RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 02_2007_LISTINGS_B3

Reykjavík Art Museum – 21 - 25 Feb. The Nordic House – 20 Jan. - 4 Mar.

Food and Fun Festival in Reykjavík An Exhibition About Us

February is the time for lots of labrú and VOX. An exhibition about being Nordic your eye is a photograph of rusty food and an equal serving of fun If a meal at any of those places has opened in one of the worst boat going under the surface. A when the annual gourmet fiesta isn’t enough to satisfy your stom- exhibition spaces in Reykjavik: the young boy is staring at us from the invades various restaurants around ach or your interest in fine dining, basement of the Nordic house cockpit, the background is warm the city. Iceland Naturally, a group the grand Cooking Competition, which architect Alto intended for autumn colours, and it leaves you of Icelandic seafood, agriculture, taking place at the Reykjavík Art storage. This should not stop you feeling uneasy but might also evoke water and tourism leaders, Icelan- Museum, February 25, is a special from seeing the photographs by a sense of recognition. dair, Icelandic agriculture and the treat for the taste buds and espe- Finnish artist Susanna Majuri cur- “I follow the logic of colours, City of Reykjavík are the hosts of cially fun to watch. During that rently on display. when I combine places, people and this five-day festival, where world- event, which also marks the end of Entitled You Nordic, Majuri clothes. To me, the most important renowned chefs from France, Ger- the festival, all participating chefs seems to have a romantic notion quality of photography is its capa- many, Finland, Norway, the UK and have to produce a three-course of Nordic inhabitants, and she has bility to convey emotions. I want to USA collaborate with Reykjavík menu and cook it on the spot, cre- photographed people in Iceland, start secret love affairs with places. I restaurants to create a special Food ating a massive cooking show open Denmark, Norway and Sweden. want to be attracted,” she explains. and Fun menu by using only Icelan- to all. “I want to show that one can The Finnish photographer was dic ingredients. The participating find fantastic from near by. Fiction indeed attracted to Iceland; she restaurants this year are: Apótek, Reykjavík Art Museum, Tryggvaga- blends into our life. The imaginary stayed in Reykjavik for months. Domo, Silfur, The Grill, La Prima- ta 17. More info at www.foodand- is in fact actual,” says Majuri in de- EMF vera, The Pearl, Salt, The Seafood fun.is scribing her project. Cellar, Siggi Hall at Óðinsvé, Skó- Many of the pictures revolve The Nordic house, Sturlugata 5, 101 around water. One that catches Reykjavik

Laugardalshöll – 3 Mar. at 20:00 Háskólabíó – 3 Mar. - 1 Apr. Incubus and Mínus Rock the House Emilie Simon, Air and a Grand French Those into the mainstream US rock fans who are pleased that the band scene, Mínus, will be the opening Film Festival scene should start digging deep still has what it takes. act at Laugardalhöll. This should into their wallets as the California- Their career spans 15 years, be an awesome event for all true A true fiesta for all movie lovers, Leclère; a series of films starring tion has spread. based rock group Incubus are on with seven studio albums, and fans, as they are also promot- especially those fascinated with Isabelle Huppert, a symbol of As if all this isn’t enough, a their way to Iceland next month. tours with the likes of System of ing their forthcoming album, The French cinematography, the an- French filmography; and a cycle of grand concert with the experi- This will be their first visit ever, a Down, Black Sabbath, Korn, Pri- Great Northern Whale Kill, which nual French Film Festival will take nine films by award-winning film- mental electronic duo Air is sched- something their many devotees mus, Mr. Bungle and Deftones. is their fourth studio album, sched- place for the seventh time next maker Pierre Coulibeuf, of which uled for July. Their newest album, have been anticipating for months. Several awards and nominees have uled for an early summer release. month when French flicks will be Warriors of Beauty with Erna Pocket Symphony, is set to be re- The concerts taking place in Lau- also helped make Incubus a multi- This should be reason enough to Gallery Gel – 16 Feb. screened daily in Háskólabíó Mov- Ómarsdóttir should be an interest- leased on March 5th. gardalshöll March 3rd is part of the platinum seller and its members, arrive early and jump in the mosh ie Theatre from March 3rd to April ing piece. A 50% discount is offered to band’s worldwide tour in support of especially frontman Brandon Boyd, pit at Laugardlashöll, anything else Regnboginn 1st. To mark the opening of the all members of Alliance Française their latest album, Light Grenades. pop icons in the alt-metal music would plainly be inexcusable. After Alex Zaklynsky Among a broad selection of 35 festival, talented French songbird buying tickets. The program will Featuring songs like Dig, Love Hurts scene. Light Grenades’ first single, opening for Metallica, Foo Fight- films to be featured is the romance Emilie Simon will throw a con- be available online at the Alliance and Anna Molly, the album is pro- Anna Molly, has been on top of the ers and Queens of the Stone Age, On February 16th, New York native lations inspired by the nature sur- Cold Trail with English Subtitles Paris I Love You (Paris, je t’aime), cert in Háskólabíó on March 4th. Française website, www.af.is, in a duced by Brendan O’Brian, famous charts all around the globe, includ- they sure know how to do the job and multi-talented artist Alex Zak- rounding the Kárahnjúkar area, a co-operative project where 18 Known for her crystal voice, she brochure available at Háskólabíó for working with Pearl Jam, Sound- ing in Iceland. Playing a mixture of right. lynsky will open a solo exhibition as well as paintings and altered T- The acclaimed Icelandic thriller Cold the film has received great reviews directors join hands in a film set took on the task of composing the and in the March issue of the garden and Rage Against the Ma- hard rock and softer power ballads, in Gallery Gel, where a trendy hair shirts. The opening party will start Trail, which premiered in Reykjavík from critics and has been doing ex- in various locations around the soundtrack to the film March of Reykjavík Grapevine. chine, and debuted at number 1 on the band’s live gigs are renowned Tickets can be bought at midi.is, in salon and a small exhibition space at 18:00 where guests can exam- a month ago, will be showing with tremely well at the box office. city, each with their own take on the Penguins and is becoming an the Billboard 200 list last year. This for being energetic and spicy, per- all Skífan stores and BT for 4,500 coalesce under one roof at Klap- ine the art while enjoying some English subtitles in the movie the- the subject of love. Also included extremely popular electronic art- Háskólabíó Movie Theatre at Haga- first album since 2004, which saw forming for full houses wherever ISK. parstígur 27. light refreshments. atre Regnboginn. Directed by Björn Regnboginn, Hverfisgata 54. For in the program will be: My little ist in her home country. Her latest torg. www.haskolabio.is. the release of A Crow Left of the they go. Entitled Spirit Exposés, the ex- B. Björnsson and starring Þróstur dates and screening hours visit: Finger told Me by Pascal Thomas; album, Végétal, released in 2006, Murder, has been well received by Uncrowned kings of Iceland’s rock hibition features sculpture instal- Gallery Gel, Klapparstígur 27. Leó Gunnarsson and Aníta Briem, www.bio.is Me and My Sister by Alexandre was highly praised and her reputa-

If you would like to be included Thu 15.02 Dust Cap and Red Motor concerts every Wednesday night and Hressó Thorvaldsenstræti 2 Fri 09.02 DJ Árni Sveins If you want Blood … you’ve got it! Medieval Manuscripts; The National Másson and Jack Frost. Klapparstígur 33 in the Grapevine listings, free of Dog in concert. Starts at 22:00 rock DJ’s every weekend. Austurstræti 20 Sat 24.02 Sálin in concert Sat 10.02 DJ Biggi Veira: GusGus prer- Stephan Stephensen / President Bogo Museum – as it was. Gallery Turpentine Tue.-Fri. 11-17 charge, contact the Grapevine by Fri 16.02 Envy of Nona release concert Fri 09.02 DJ’s Steinunn and Silja Here, troubadours play sing-along Thu 01.03 Lisa Ekdahl in concert elease party photo exhibit. The Library Room; The Road to Zion; Ingólfsstræti 5 Sat. and by appointment 13-17 email at [email protected]. Sat 17.02 DJ Fúsi Sat 10.02 DJ Andrea Jóns hitters until midnight followed by DJs Sun 04.03 Lisa Ekdahl in concert Thu 15.02 DJ Roesbert Anima Gallery Berlin Excursion Tue.-Fri. 12-18 www.i8.is Thu 22.02 Hjalti and Silli from Dimma Wed 14.02 Bennys Crespo’s Gang + playing whatever the crowd is aching Tue 06.03 Stranglers in concert Fri 16.02 DJ Krummi Ingólfsstræti 8 / Lækjargata 2 Dwarf Gallery Sat. 11-16 18 Jan – 24 Feb Music Fri 23.02 DJ Master friends for at the moment. Wed 07.03 Stranglers in concert Sat 17.02 DJ Jón Atli Tue.-Sat. 13-17 Grundarstígur 21 www.turpentine.is Kristinn E. Hrafnsson displays two steel Bar 11 Sat 24.02 DJ Master Thu 15.02 Grasrætur in concert Fri 09.02 Pub-lic followed by DJ Maggi Prikið Thu 22.02 DJ Chuck www.animagalleri.is Opening Hours: Fri. and Sat. 18-20 Current exhibition sculptures and 32 prints Laugavegur 11 Café Cultura Fri 16.02 Foreign Monkeys + DJ’s Sat 10.02 Helgi Valur troubadour and Bankastræti 12 Fri 23.02 DJ Krummi Artótek www.this.is/birta Jón Gunnar Árnason exhibition 18 Jan – 24 Feb A popular hangout for Reykjavík’s Hverfisgata 18 Steinunn and Silja DJ Maggi This old coffeehouse turns into a hip- Sat 24.02 DJ Árni Sveins Tryggvagata 15 Current exhibition Gallery Úlfur Björk Viggósdóttir exhibition rockers and their young idolaters with Music from the world’s four corners Sat 17.02 DJ Andrea Jóns Fri 16.02 Touch in concert followed by hop mania at weekends where not Wed 28.02 Sprengjuhöllin in concert Mon. 10-21, Tue.-Thu. 10-19, Fri. 11- Video-work by Unnur Andrea Einars- Baldursgata 11 Háskólabíó Movie Theatre DJ’s playing classic rock‘n’roll hitters. Fri 09.02 DJ Lupin Wed 21.02 Perfect Disorder in concert DJ Johnny only DJs but also drummers and bass- and Best of 2006 Party with madches- 19, Sat. and Sun. 13-17 dóttir Mon.-Fri. 13-18. Hagatorg Fri 09.02 DJ Gulli Ósóma Sat 10.02 Russian Night with DJ Sergei Fri 23.02 Græsrætur + DJ Mikkó Sat 17.02 Pub-lic followed by DJ ists create a crasy pit at the dancefloor. ter.is www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/Artotek Gallery 100 Degrees www.3frakkar.com/galleryufur.php www.haskolabio.is Sat 10.02 DJ Óli Dóri Café Rósenberg Sat 24.02 DJ Andrea Jóns Johnny Fri 09.02 Franz and Kristó followed Sportbarinn Until 18 Feb Bæjarháls 1 Until 20 Feb 1 Mar – 31 Mar Fri 16.02 DJ Óli Dóri Lækjargata 2 Wed 28.02 Live concert Fri 23.02 Touch in concert followed by by Blautt Malbic extravaganza: Danni Jafnarsel 6, Breiðholt Iðnaðarlandslag / Industrial Landscape Mon.-Fri. 8:30-16 Fæðing Upphafs / The Birth of Begin- The Plane: how does it work? Sat 17.02 DJ Palli Maus A true jazz club featuring live gigs with Thu 01.03 Beerday + Grasrætur DJ Maggi Deluxe, Dóri DNA and DJ Óli Sat 10.02 Benefit concerts for children Guðrún Öyahals exhibition. www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100 ning An exhibition presenting the evolution Fri 23.02 DJ Gulli Ósóma some of Iceland’s finest jazzists almost Fri 02.03 DJ Mikkó Sat 24.02 Pub-lic followed by DJ Maggi Sat 10.02 DJ Peter Parker warms up suffering from heart diseases: Foreign Aurum Current exhibition Paintings by Þórhallur Sigurðsson of aeronautical science and technology Sat 24.02 DJ Óli Dóri every night of the week. Sat 03.02 DJ Andrea Jóns Fri 02.02 Touch in concert followed by the crowd before DJ Anna Rakel and Monkeys, Perfect Disorder, Dimma, Bankastræti 4 Artwork owned by Reykjavík Energy. Gel Gallerí through the pioneers and the discover- Fri 02.03 DJ Palli Maus Fri 09.02 Sviðin jörð big band in Wed 07.03 Live concert DJ Johnny DJ Hjalti Celestine and Helshare. Starts at Mon.-Fri. 10-18 Gallery Fold Hverfisgata 37 ies that defined its history. Spanning Sat 03.03 DJ Gulli Ósóma concert Fri 09.03 Noice in concert followed by Sat 03.02 Nanas in concert Wed 14.02 DJ Andri 22:00. Tickets for 1000 ISK. Sat. 11-16 Rauðarárstígur 14-16 Mon.-Fri. 10-19 the history of aviation from the first Fri 09.02 DJ Gulli Ósóma Sat 10.02 Sviðin jörð big band in DJ Mikkó Fri 09.03 Touch in concert followed by Thu 15.02 DJ Kári Vegamót www.aurum.is Mon.-Fri. 10-18 Sat. 10-17 aeroplane made by Clément Ader until Sat 10.02 Ten Steps Away + guests in concert Hallgrímskirkja Church DJ Maggi Fri 16.02 Franz and Kristó followed by Vegamótarstígur 4 The Einar Jónsson Museum Sat. 11-16 From 16 Feb the last plane conceived by Airbus, the concert followed by DJ Óli Dóri Wed 14.02 Einar Snorri trio Skólavörðuholt Kaffibarinn Gísli Galdur and Addi the drummer A weekly anticipation for its trendy Eiríksgata Sun. 14-16 Alex Zaklynsky exhibition A380. B5 Thu 15.02 South River band Tue 27.02 Concerts with French organ- Bergstaðastræti 1 Sat 17.02 Old-school night with Benni clientele, always dressed for the occa- Tue.-Sun. 14-17 www.myndlist.is Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Icelandic Labour Union’s Bankastræti 5 Fri 16.02 Ljótu hálfvitarnir in concert ist Vincent Warnier With a mixture of techno, reggae, hip- B-Ruff sion, the party starts at midnight and www.skulptur.is Selling a large selection of Icelandic Gerðuberg 3-5 Art Gallery Fri 09.02 Grapevine Party. Ta! Ta! Ta! Sat 17.02 Ljótu hálfvitarnir in concert Háskólabíó hop and classic dance hitters, the DJs Wed 21.02 DJ Playmobile ends early in the morning. Permanent exhibition and international art and hosting Mon.-Thu. 11-17 Freyjugata 41 and Esja. Starts at 22:00 Thu 22.02 Misery Loves Company in Hagatorg are usually capable of crowding the Thu 22.02 Lay Low and Pétur Ben in Fri 09.02 DJ Símon The work of sculptor Einar Jónsson exhibitions on a regular basis. Wed. 11-21 Tue.-Sun. 13-17 Broadway concert Thu 01.03 The Icelandic Symphony dance floor each weekend and getting concert followed by DJ Benni B-Ruff Sat 10.02 DJ’s Anna Rakel and Hjaldi Á næstu grösum restaurant Gallerí Sævars Karls Thu.-Fri. 11-17 Free Entrance Ármúli 9 Fri 23.02 Ásgeir and Hannes quartet Orchestra: Eroica. Ludwig van the regulars frisky at weekdays. Fri 23.02 Franz and Kristó followed Thu 15.02 DJ Símon Laugavegur 20B Bankastræti 7 Sun-Sat. 13-16 3 Feb – 25 Feb Sat 17.02 Tina Turner tribute show Sat 24.02 Ásgeir and Hannes quartet Beethoven; Symphony no. 3 Fri 09.02 DJ Alfons X by Blautt Malbic extravaganza: Danni Fri 16.02 DJ Benni www.aneastugrosum.is Mon.-Fri. 10-18 www.gerduberg.is Leiðsla / Trance with Sigga Beinteins Thu 01.03 Dúi Jazzband Sun 04.03 French singer Emilie Simon Sat 10.02 DJ Benni B-Ruff Deluxe, Dóri DNA and DJ Óli Sat 17.02 DJ Dóri Current exhibition Sat. 10-16 3 Feb – 15 Apr Eygló Harðardóttir exhibition. Video Fri 23.02 Queen Party Fri 02.03 Hlynur Ben troubadour in concert Wed 14.02 DJ’s Steinunn and Silja Sat 24.02 DJ De la Rósa and DJ Óli Fri 23.02 Vegamót DJ Vera / Stay www.saevarkarl.is/gsm/ Tími – Afstæði – Gildi/ Time – Relativ- installation, paintings, drawings and Sat 24.02 Tina Turner tribute show Fri 09.03 Siggi Perez in concert Hitt Húsið Thu 15.02 DJ Pétur Wed 28.02 DJ Gunni Stef Sat 24.02 Vegamót DJ Ellen Marie Fodstad photo exhibit Current exhibition ity – Relevance 3D works. with Sigga Beinteins Deco Pósthússtræti 3-5 Fri 16.02 DJ Árni Sveins Sirkus The Culture House Photographs by Gunnar S. Magnússon. Rúrí retrospective. 23 Feb – 25 Mar Café Amsterdam Austurstæti 12 Tue 15.02 British rockers The October Sat 17.02 DJ Gísli Galdur Klapparstígur 30 Art Hverfisgata 15 Gallery Tukt Gyllinhæð Exhibition of Etienne de France Hafnarstræti 5 Fri 09.02 Vocal House Night: Singer Game in concert. Also performing are Thu 22.02 DJ Tommy White Playing reggae, country and occasion- 101 Gallery Open daily 11-17 Pósthússtræti 3-5 Laugavegur 23 Kling & Bang Gallery Fri 09.02 Coburn and Ronda & the Seth Sharp and DJ Tommy White The Foreign Fri 23.02 Don Balli Funk ally hosting at least one live gig at Hverfisgata 18 www.thjodmenning.is www.hitthusid.is Thu.-Sun. 14-18 Laugavegur 23 Runestone Cowboys in concert fol- Dillon Monkeys, The Unknown, UnaStef and Sat 24.02 DJ Alfons X weekdays, Sirkus’s veteran techno DJs Thu.-Sat. 14-17 and by appointment Until 27 Feb From 3 Feb Students from the second year of the Thu.-Sun. 14-18 lowed by DJ Master. Starts at 23:00 Laugavegur 30 Vafurlogi. Open to all ages free of Wed 28.02 DJ Benni B-Ruff keep the party going until morning at www.101hotel.is/101hotel/101gallery/ Icelandic Fashion 2006 Percussive Poetic Photography. Art Academy Free Entrance Sat 10.02 Buff and Brain Police Legendary rock pub featuring live charge. Nasa weekends. 18 Jan – 15 Feb Permanent Exhibits Cooperative photo project by G. Karel i8 Gallery www.this.is/klingandbang B4_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 02_2007_LISTINGS Music Art Films Events Music Art Films Events RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 02_2007_LISTINGS_B5

Various locations – 22 Feb. -12 May. Miklabraut – 22 Feb. -28 Feb.

French Spring in Iceland Reykjavík Underworld

An extensive French Cultural Matisse and Renoir. There are at least two groups afterwards, equipped with paint festival will be taking place in Patrons can also take part in a who may never agree on whether rollers and brushes to cover the Iceland for the first time this wine-tasting seminar, flock to graffiti is a creative art form or whole creation again. The look of year, entitled Pourquoi Pas? Its Háskólabíó Movie Theatre for just pure vandalism. These are this underpass is never the same. opening act, a project organized the French Film Festival, see the the graffiti artists on the one There can be artistically painted in collaboration with the Reykjavík exhibition Celebration Park by Pierre hand, who see their spraying and pictures or graffiti of any shapes Winter Lights Festival starting the Huyghe in Reykjavík Art Museum painting as a modern work of art, and sizes, and an hour later, no same day, features Michel Moglia plus a design-art exhibition with and the Reykjavík City cleaning sign of all the hard work. That playing a fire-organ at Austurvöllur, M/M (Mathias Augustyniak and team on the other, which couldn’t same applies of course for the February 22nd. Michael Amzalag) in collaboration agree less. cleaning team, as Grapevine isn’t There are almost continuous with Gabriela Fredriksdottir, watch Last January, artist Rósa Sigrún about to take sides on this issue. events taking place during the break-dancers Pockemon Crew Jónsdóttir devoted her time to the After walking through this festival, in the field of art, music, perform at the Reykjavík Theatre continuous war between these two underpass every day, Jónsdóttir film, fashion, science, performing and enjoy concerts with Françoiz groups, by photographing the small realized that the war is mostly arts and literature. If highlights are Breut at the National Theatre. underpass where Lönguhlíð and characterised by short-term to be recommended, Grapevine As there’s something happening Miklabraut cross. That particular wins and losses on both sides. would first of all like to point out every day until May 12th, no one underpass has long been a popular Inspired by the battle, she took 31 the final days of the exhibition should have any trouble finding graffiti spot, where the walls photographs from January 1st to Regard Fauve at the National something of interest. function as a large canvas. Armed 31st, documenting the constant Gallery. Anyone who hasn’t yet with their spray-cans, the graffiti change. seen this exhibition should hurry The full program will be available artists continue their struggle The result will be on display up and do so quickly, as it’s not online at www.pourquoipas.is. for domination and freedom of to any underpass pedestrian as every year locals get the chance to expression by decorating the part of the Reykjavík Winter Lights see the works of French masters walls in various colours, while Festival, February 22nd to 28th. such as Bonnard, Dufy, Marquet, the cleaning team arrives shortly

10 Feb – 4 Mar Open daily 10-17 Iceland. Hafnargata 22, Keflavík A comedy involving a museum guard Foreldrar (Parents) tackles the role of Björk lends her voice to Anna, Damon ring him, Matt Damon, Angelina Jolie always become a little wiser. In order tickets visit: www.id.is Exhibition by Helgi Hjaltalín and Pétur Reykjavík Art Museum – Ásmun- Safn Thu.-Fri. 16-18 played by Ben Stiller who wakes up a parents in modern society. Sambíóin Albarn to Anna’s father and Terry and Patrick Wilson, this political flick to help Icelandic people become more How do you adopt the Euro? Örn Friðriksson where they emphasise dur Sveinsson Sculpture Museum Laugavegur 37 Sat.-Sun. 14-17 lot of creatures one night. Icelandic Álfabakka, Sambíóin Akureyri. Jones is the narrator. (February 9) about misdeeds and corruption in the familiar with the rich wine culture, 02.03 The University of Reykjavík technology mania as a recognized Sigtún Wed.-Fri. 14-18 www.sudsudvestur.is Robbie Rotten Stefán Karl Stefánsson Babel Pursuit of Happiness CIA has gained very mixed reviews but the French-Icelandic Chamber of together with Glitnir Bank present a lifestyle Open daily 10-16 Sat.-Sun. 14-17 DaLí Gallery lends his voice to some Icelandic Vi- By 21 Grams director Alejandro A Will Smith drama based on a true at the same time will be among the Commerce, in partnership with the lunch meeting where the question of Liborius Admission ticket is valid for three days Free Entrance Brekkugata 9, Akureyri kings. Supposed to be quite hilarious. González Iñárritu, an Oscar nominated story about a single dad who dreams nominees at the next Oscar Award Icelandic Wine School, have organised how to adopt the Euro will be exam- At Mýrargata in all three museums. www.safn.is Mon.-Sat. 14-18 Smárabíó, Laugarásbíó, Regnboginn, thriller with Brad Pitt and Cate Blanch- of a better life for his kid. (February 9) ceremony. (February 23) a French Wine Seminar, taking place ined and the requirements set by the www.liborius.is Free entrance every Thursday. Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Gallerí+ Borgarbíó Akureyri, Selfossbíó, Sam- ett among the cast. Set in the Moroc- Hannibal Rising Regnboginn, Hverfisgata 54 February 13–15th at Hotel Reykjavík European Union reviewed. Inigi Arruga Open daily from 11-18, except Sundays www.listasafnreykjavikur.is Laugarnestangi 70 Brekkugata 35, Akureyri bíoin Keflavík. can desert, it starts with a female Yes, Hannibal the cannibal has re- 101 Reykjavík, Tel. 551-9000 Centrum. Guests will get to taste some Oleaga, a Principal Legal Counsel at Fri. 17 Feb Until 18 Mar Tue.-Sun. 14-17 Jónas Viðar Gallery Apocalypto tourist being shot by two Maroccan turned yet another time, now telling Sambíóin, Álfabakki 8 of the renowned French wines while the European Central Bank, will give a Art auction from Skaftfell Cultural Ásmundur Sveinsson – Man and Permanent exhibition Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri Mel Gibson’s newest blockbuster boys, triggering a chain of events link- the tale of the man-eating maniac 109 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 the Wine School headmaster guides lecture. Participation fee is 1.500 ISK Centre at 17:00. The works will be on Material The work of sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson Fri.-Sat. 13-18 drama set in the ancient Mayan region ing her with a Japanese teen in Tokyo when he is still an innocent teenager. Smárabíó, Smáralind them through the distinctive flavours with a light lunch included. To register, display at Liborius shop from February Selected works from Ásmundur www.jvs.is/jvgallery.htm in Mexico, and centres, as the name and a nanny smuggling two kids into After witnessing his parents getting 201 Kópavogur, Tel. 564-0000 they taste. call 599-6267. 9th. Sveinsson, illustrating his use of >>> OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK Akureyri Art Museum suggests, on the decline of civilisa- Mexico. Sambíóin Álfabakka, Sambíóin killed during WW2 he ends up in an Háskólabíó, Hagatorg Hotel Reykjavík Centrum, Aðalstræti The University of Reykjavík, Ofanleiti 2. Living Art Museum materials such as wood, clay, plaster, Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri tion. Smárabíó, Laugarásbíó, Sambíóin Keflavík. orphanage and slowly starts changing 107 Reykjavík, Tel. 525-5400 16, starts at 18:00. For more info visit: Starts at 12:00. Laugavegur 26 bronze and other metals. Hveragerði Library Tue.-Sun. 12-17 Keflavík. Perfume: The Story of a Murderer into the brutal serial killer movie-goers Kringlubíó, Kringlan 4-12 www.vinskolinn.is Tango at Iðnó Theatre Wed., Fri.-Sun. 13-17 Reykjavík Art Museum Austurmörk 2, Hveragerði www.listasafn.akureyri.is Dreamgirls Tom Tykwer takes on the tough task know all too well. (February 16) 103 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 Roots of Competitiveness 06.03 Every first Tuesday each winter Thur 13-22 – Hafnarhús Mon.-Fri. 15-19 From 13 Jan Beyoncé Knowles, Eddie Murphy and of filming the best-selling novel by Notes on a Scandal Selfossbíó, Eyrarvegur 2 16.02 A convention dedicated to com- month, teachers Þórdís and Daði show www.nylo.is/ Tryggvagata 17 Skaftfell Les yeux de l’ombre jaune Jamie Foxx, in a 1960s-style adapta- German author Patrick Suskind, Das Starring Cate Blanchett as a pottery 800 Selfoss, Tel. 482-3007 petitiveness in international trading guests how to dance the Tango, step- Until 18 Mar Open daily 10-17 Austurvegur 42, Seyðisfjörður Jón Óskars exhibition tion of a popular Broadway musical. Perfume. Starring Ben Whishaw as the teacher who begins an affair with one Laugarásbíó, Laugarás will be held at Nordica Hotel, February by-step. Presque Rien 2 Feb – 29 Apr www.skaftfell.is From 13 Jan Laugarásbíó, Borgarbíó Akureyri. young killing perfumer, Jean-Baptiste of her underage students. (February 104 Reykjavík, Tel. 565-0118 16th from 09:00-16:00. Dr. Christian Iðnó Theatre, Vonarstræti 3, starts at A contemporary art exhibition with Erró - Gleymd framtíð / Erró – Forgot- 2 Dec – 20 Feb 2007 Tyrfingar Little Children Grenouille, who was born with a 16) Sambíóin Akureyri, Ráðhústorg Ketels, a member of the Michael E. 20:00. works of French artists like Robbert ten Future Haraldur Jónsson exhibition Adam Bateman installation Dealing with common problems facing unique olfactory sense. The movie, set The Number 23 600 Akureyri, Tel. 461-4666 Porter’s Institute for Strategy and The French Commercial Days Filliou & Joachim Pfeufer, Michel Blazy, 100 watercolour paintings by Erró Open 13-17 on weekends GalleriBOX the every day lives of a group of young in 18th-century Paris, follows the story A thriller with Jim Carrey taking on Nýja-Bíó, Hafnargata 33 Competitiveness at the Harvard Busi- 08.03 Within the framework of the Rebecca Bournigault, Jean-Baptiste from the period 1981-2005. Gallery Klettur Kaupvangstræti 10, Akureyri couples, this humourous yet disturbing of Grenouille, and his search for the the role of a man whose life will soon 230 Reykjanesbær, Tel. 421-1170 ness School, will lecture on the sub- French Culture Festival, the French-Ice- Bruant & Maria Spangaro, Clôde Coul- 2 Feb – 18 Mar Helluhraun 16, Hanfarfjörður www.galleribox.blogspot.com flick was nominated for three Golden perfect perfume. (February 9) change after discovering a mysterious ject, and administrators from Actavis, landic Chamber of Commerce presents pier, François Curlet, Gérald, Philippe Installation and photographs by Birta Open Sat. 10-14. At other times by 10 Feb – 17 Mar Globe awards, including best drama. Smokin’ Aces book he thinks is based on his life. Events Landsbankinn Bank, Össur and Exista the fifth annual French Commercial Meste, Hugues Reip and Jean-Michel Guðjónsdóttir in the D Gallery arrangement. Kristín Helga Káradóttir exhibition Laugarásbíó, Regnboginn. This film centres on a young snitch As the book ends with a murder, he Prét-á-Porter in Hafnarfjörður will give short presentations. After Days. From March 8th to 18th, French Wicker. 23 Feb – 29 Apr Hafnarborg DaLí Gallery Little Miss Sunshine getting prepared to testify against the becomes paranoid and scared and Movie Theatre lunch, all participants will be offered products will be promoted in more Mokka Fagnaðargarðurinn / Celebration Park Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður Brekkugata 9, Akureyri Pure brilliance! A low-budget inde- mob. Rather than keep a low profile tries to fight what he is now convinced 10.02 The National Film Archive of to partake in workshops where the than twenty shops around Reykjavík’s Skólavörðustígur 3a French artist Pierre Huyghe displays his Mon.-Sun. 11-17 www.daligallery.blogspot.com pendent movie the likes of Sideways, while waiting to face his destiny, he is his brutal destiny. (February 23) Iceland in Hafnarfjörður continues subject is analyzed further. Participa- centre – including L’Occitane, Kisan, Open daily 9:30-23:30, Sun. 12-23:30 recent works. www.hafnarborg.is Populus Tremula about a highly dysfunctional American runs of to a Lake Tahoe casino with Last King of Scotland offering old classics to cinema lovers tion fee is 19.500 ISK. and Du Pareil Au Même – and a series www.mokka.is Reykjavík Art Museum 11 Jan – 4 Feb Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri family travelling across the country in a group of angry assassins chasing Set in Uganda, this movie is inspired for only 500 ISK per ticket, this time Nordica Hotel, Suðurlandsbraut 2. of events will take place around the Until 5 March – Kjarvalsstaðir Faroese Paintings poptrem.blogspot.com/ a yellow mini-bus to get the youngest after him before he gets the chance to by the life of the country’s dictator Idi screening Robert Alman’s controversial More info at www.mbahi.is city. At the same time, the French Jaguar Flókagata Edward Fuglø, Astri Luihn, Sigrún Gun- VeggVerk daughter to a beauty pageant. One of squeal. (February 9) Amin and his brutal governance in the flick Prét-á-Porter. Performance by the Iceland Book Week will take place at Mál Guðmundur Heimsberg photo exhibit Open Daily 10-17 narsdóttir, Torbjørn Olsen, Eyðun av Strandgata 17, Akureyri the more interesting films of last year. Anna and the Moods 1970s as experienced by his Scottish The National Film Archive of Iceland, Dance Company og Menning bookshop where book The National Gallery 10 Feb – 29 Apr Reyni and Ingálvur av Reyni Open all hours Selfossbíó, Regnboginn. An Icelandic animated flick about personal physician. Forest Whitaker Hvaleyrarbraut 13, starts at 20:00. 23.02 The Iceland Dance Company lovers can get acquainted with French Fríkirkjuvegur Foss / Falling Water Gljúfrasteinn / Halldór Laxness 27 Jan – 9 Mar Man of the Year Anna, who wakes up one morning takes on the role of Amin. (February French Wine Seminar premieres two new dance pieces literature. Tue.-Sun. 11-17 The exhibition explores the relation- museum Our Greatest Fear From the director of Sleepers and looking like a Marilyn Manson replica 23) 13-15.02 Everyone who enjoys a glass created by choreographers Roberto Free Entrance ship between art and nature through 270 Mosfellsbær Werner Berger and Timothy Murphy Wag the Dog, this comedy is about a and is terribly moody and is shipped The Good Shepherd of red or white with dinner knows the Oliván and André Gingras. listasafn.is the work of Hekla Dögg Jónsdóttir, Open daily except Mondays from paint statements on the mural popular TV talk-show host played by to Dr. Artman’s lab to fix the problem. Directed by Robert De Niro and star- quality of French wines, but one can Reykjavík City Theatre, Listabraut 3. For 15 Dec – 25 Feb Ólafur Elíasson, Pat Steir and Rúrí. 10-17. Robin Williams who decides to run for Un Regard Fauve 10 Feb – 2 Sep Hafnarfjörður institution of president without ever expecting to French Expressionism K-Þátturinn / The K-Factor continuing education win. The results? Well, you’ll just have The National Museum Jóhannes S. Kjarval retrospective. Skólabraut 1, Hafnarfjörður to see for yourself. Sambíóin Kringlan,

Suðurgata 41 4 Feb – 6 May Paintings by Sigurður Örlygsson, Árni www.gljufrasteinn.is Sambíóin Álfabakka. Open daily 10-17 Kjarval og bernskan / Kjarval and Rúnar Sverrisson, Inga Dóra Guð- Blood Diamond natmus.is/ childhood mundsdóttir, Ester Jóhannesdóttir, In the middle of a bloody civil war in Until 29 Apr Jóhannes S. Kjarval exhibition espe- Helga Sigurðardóttir, Kristín Pálmadót- Films Sierra Leone, the lives of a local fisher- With a Silverneedle cially for the young ones. A program tir, Svandís Egilsdóttir, Charlotta S. Rocky Balboa man, American journalist and a South Elsa E. Guðjónsson textile designer for children every Sunday at 14:00. Sverrisdóttir, Ágúst Bjarnason and A Sylvester Stallone comeback about African smuggler intersect as they Until 12 Mar Reykjavík Museum Kristbergur Pétursson the infamous boxing hero Rocky go on a dangerous journey to find a Guðni Þórðarson photo exhibition Kistuhylur 4 Kópavogur Art Museum Balboa. In this final part of the series, cursed diamond everyone cherishes. Ingimundur Magnússon and Kristján www.arbaejarsafn.is – Gerðasafn a middle-aged Rocky steps back into Sambíóin Kringlan, Sambíóin Álfa- Magnússon photo exhibit The Reykjavík Museum Hamraborg, Kópavogur the ring for one last fight against bakka, Sambíóin Akureyri. Permanent Exhibitions: of Photography Open daily 11:00-17:00 except Mon- heavy-weight champion Mason Dixon. The Prestige The Making of a Nation Grófarhús, Tryggvagata 15, 6th floor days Smárabíó, Regnboginn, Borgarbíó A flick about the battle between two ABC-kort The Nordic House Weekdays 12-19 www.gerdasafn.is Akureyri. magicians whose rivalry leads to a Sturlugata 5 Sat.-Sun. 13-17 13 Jan – 11 Feb Charlotte’s Web dangerous obsession with the ultimate Tue.-Sun. 12-17 Free Entrance The exhibition INDIGO Wilbur the pig gets friendly with other last trick. Starring Christian Bale, Hugh Hjálpaðu bágstöddum börnum og njóttu afsláttar í leiðinni www.nordice.is/ www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is Helgi Þorgils Friðjónsson, Daði Guðb- farm animals and a talking spider Jackman and Scarlett Johansson. Sel- Með ABC-kortinu færðu 10% afslátt í verslunum 20 Jan – 4 Mar 11 Jan – 20 Feb jörnsson, Eggert Pétursson, Kristín named Charlotte who helps him await fossbíó, Sambíóin Kringlan, Sambíóin 66°Norður um land allt og 1% af upphæðinni Þið þessi norrænu / You Nordic Menjar tímans / Relics of Time Gunnlaugsdóttir, Sigtryggur Bjarni the destiny of becoming the Sunday Álfabakka. rennur beint til ABC-barnahjálpar. Finnish photographer Susanna Majuri Sissú photo exhibit Baldvinsson, Sigríður Ólafsdóttir, Sig- dinner. Based on the popular children’s Foreldrar exhibition 24 Feb – 25 Mar urður Árni Sigurðsson, Birgir Snæbjörn book. Smárabíó, Sambíóin Kring- The second part of Vesturport’s twin Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 : Jo Duchene photo exhibition display- Birgisson, Ransu and Jóhann Ludwig lan, Sambíóin Álfabakka, Sambíóin feature theme project written and Þú sækir um ABC-kortið The Settlement Exhibition ing his documentary of private, public, Torfason. Akureyri, Sambíóin Keflavík. directed by Ragnar Bragason. After hjá Netbankanum á www.nb.is Aðalstræti 16 industrial and religious housing in Suðsuðvestur Night at the Museum Börn’s (Children) gleaming reviews, 86;wH G:HI6JG6CIH & - I†j9gdeVg &* C¨hi^7Vg '' 7dhidc '* yahid[Vc '- 7Vg^cc (& () 6g\Zci†cV (, >cY^VcBVc\d )) 7¨_Vg^ch7Zhij @V[[^=a_‹bVa^cY Laugavegur 27 Ingólfsstræti 1a Laugavegur 28b Vegamótastígur 4 Laugavegur 22 Kdg HiZV`]djhZ Frakkarstígur 12 Tryggvagata Laugavegur 21 A very nice, old-fashioned café. It’s sub- Næsti Bar can be a godsend on those Located above the second-hand fashion Ölstofan has been attracting a clientele Up-and-coming Barinn is becoming Laugavegur 24 Barónstígur 11 Located on a quiet Laugavegur side There’s a good reason why there’s always terranean, as all traditional coffee shops nights when queues seem to snake all store Spútnik, with its roomy bar floor of late twenties and up who come for quite popular among Reykjavík party street, Indian Mango has infused the a line in front of Bæjarins Bestu, regard- This organic, free-trade café prides itself Vor’s refreshing take on café-style eat- True to its name, restaurant Argentína should be, and this place makes you feel the way down Laugavegur, no seats are and nice sofas in the lounge room up- the drink and stay for the company, as scenesters. Its three floors and equally Reykjavík restaurant scene with incred- less of the weather or time of day. Select- on being a non-profit company and a ing is marked by its use of fresh ingre- specialises in Argentinean steaks and warm, both with its atmosphere and the available anywhere and you just want to stairs, Boston is a fresh addition to the blasting DJs here have been replaced by numerous bars get quite crowded dur- ible delicacies originating in the rich food ed the best hot-dog stand in Europe by dedicated venue for the hardcore and dients and a health-conscious menu that southern decorations where dancing generosity of the coffee refills. chat with some friends over a beer. Fre- Reykjavík bar scene. Old-school yet styl- nice background music to go with the ing weekends where a mix of dancing traditions from the Goa region in India, The Guardian, a fact locals realized de- cultural scene by hosting concerts, lec- emphasises French and Mediterranean flames in the fireplace welcome every quented by the literary and acting elite, ish interiors, and enough tables to cre- drink. Better show up early on week- downstairs and chatting upstairs make honed to perfection at the Four Seasons, cades ago, it has been serving “ein með tures and poetry nights. Serving delicious cuisine. The fresh spring salad and the guest that walks inside. The tender meat, those folk usually don’t mind if you pop ate a good vibe, make the place a comfy ends before the regular clientele rushes for a good night out. Though mostly a during the owner’s period as head chef. öllu” (“one with the lot”) to downtown soups and vegetarian dishes as well as excellent carrot-ginger soup are excellent excellent wines, generous portions and a in for a quick beer and make use of some café as well as a laid-back tavern where in as its popularity makes it hard to find DJ bar, Barinn occasionally hosts live gigs A local favourite, Indian Mango is known pedestrians since 1935, making it the organic tea, coffee and cake, this is the pick-me-ups on rainy days, and the cof- selection of quality cognac, whiskey, li- of the (usually) available tables, so long the music is good but never intrusive. a table. and is always a fun party venue. both for the quality of the food as well oldest fast food restaurant in the coun- place to visit for a reasonably priced fee served is of the highest quality. queurs and cigars all helped in making it as you don’t sing. as the service. try. Grabbing a bite couldn’t be easier. healthy lunch. a recommended place for fine dining.

' XZaVcY^X;^h]8]^eh (- H¨\gZ^[^cc )* Fj^ocdh Hverfisgata 16a Laugavegur 18 Vegamótastígur 4 Hverfisgata 18 Austurstræti 12 Ingólfsstræti 3 REYKJAVíKAðalstræti 12 Tryggvagata 8 Verbúð 8, Geirsgata Lækjargata 8 A small antique-style non-smoking cof- On the top floor of the giant bookstore Vegamót (crossroads) has an appealing Located inside the Intercultural Cen- Located in a former drugstore, Deco is an A spacious designer bar specially suited Last time we checked, Maru manages Not the regular fish’n’chips diner but a Located right next to the Reykjavík har- A chain of sandwich outlets special- fee house in a Hverfisgata basement, Mál og Menning, you’ll find the casual lunch menu, they serve brunch during tre, Cultura is a restaurant/bar with a upper-middle priced bar/bistro catering for an evening drink, the newly reno- to shell out some near-perfect sushi at healthy restaurant using only organic bour, Sægreifinn fish shop and restau- izing in toasty baguette-style subs, but legendary for its early opening hours, booklover coffee house Súfistinn. What the weekends, and the kitchen is open cosmopolitan feel, hosting an array of to those who prefer elegant surround- vated Q-Bar is a welcome addition to the very reasonable prices. Their downtown vegetables, quality fish products and rant is truly like no other you’ll witness in also serving soups and salads. Choose amazing breakfast and strong coffee we love about this place is the selection until 22:00 daily. After that the beat goes events and various theme nights like ings. A good choice for a light lunch or nightlife downtown. In stylish and com- location makes it an excellent place for no wheat or white sugar in its kitchen. the country. The menu features various your toppings and variety of sauces and that will easily wake you up in the morn- of books and magazines you can take on, and you can check the end results in Salsa teaching, tango nights and fusion an afternoon glass of red vine. Features fortable surroundings, with a lounge-like take-away, a fact that’s emphasised (and Deep-fried catch of the day served with fish dishes and a rich portion of the best you’ll get a fresh sandwich to suit your ing. We especially recommend The Truck, from the store and read while enjoying photos published the day after on their parties. The menu features all sorts of an above average whiskey selection. atmosphere, a good vibe and plenty of suggested) by the menu. When dining oven baked potatoes and Skyronnes, lobster soup we’ve ever tasted. It also ca- taste. Ask for the lamb sub, an Icelandic American style breakfast consisting of a breakfast, light lunch or afternoon website www.vegamot.is. If you like Oli- international dishes like Thai soup, Span- seats, the place never gets uncomfort- in, however, make sure to compliment a sauce made out of the fat-free milk ters to groups upstairs where the room speciality. Then put a double chocolate eggs, bacon, pancakes, fried potatoes, coffee. Browse the shelves and grab a ver, try Vegamót and vice versa. ish tapas, fahjitas and falafel mixed with ably crowded nor too noisy for con- your spicy tuna maki with a nice glass of product Skyr and flavoured with all sorts looks more like a cabin than a diner and chunk brownie in your take-away box tomatoes, syrup and toast. The bagels table. bistro regulars such as sandwiches and versation, making it a popular pre-club Asahi ‘Super Dry’ and a chaser of sake. of spices, on the side for 1350 ISK. They the Sea Baron himself can often be seen. and you’re good to go. are also excellent. salads. destination. also offer take-away at all times. The good food and welcoming service WiNTERmake this place a must-try. ( &% &, (. )+ Bd``V HkVgiV@V[[^ 8V[‚8don 9DLCIDLCG:N@?6KÏ@ 6e‹iZ`7Vg"snacks and cappuccinos to Laugavegur writing, Café Cozy is indeed very cosy, )+ lent menu, it’s no wonder this restau- Nonnabiti, or Nonni as the locals call it, café in the city centre and the founder of pedestrians every day of the week. The and especially so if you happen to be Hafnarstræti )) rant is always packed during weekends.Full scheduleis one of the more popular junk food a very rich coffee culture in the country. appeal lies partly in their famous Súpa same-sex oriented. During weekends, (( Located inside a building that used to places around, offering a large selection Its old interiors full of character make the í brauði, (translates Soup in bread), but this small café usually turns into a full- house the downtown pharmacy, the res- of take-away or dine in subs, sandwich- stay both relaxing and comfortable and also in the romantic atmosphere created fledged discothèque with bouts of table taurant is a true haven for food lovers es and burgers with a nice dash of the a great place to linger on a Sunday af- by candlelight on every table and easy- dancing and general hedonism while Austurstræti&' )' where the pleasure of dining in the open unique Nonni-sauce. If you have a late ternoon. Mokka’s regular art exhibits are listening music. A nice hideaway in the weeknights find the clientele discussing '+ + and lively environment is almost inde- night craving there’s no need to worry, always worth a look. early evening for a drink or two. current-affairs over pints and cups of LiGHTSscribable. After the meal, order a Mojito Nonni is open longer than most other (. coffee. '& – it’s the best you’ll get in the city. places. ). Bank &- astræti Ingólfsstræti 76GHC7>HIGDH )* , &* ' ) G{Â]h`V[[^ && &- G‹hZcWZg\ && '( )% K^ÂI_Žgc^cV ), =VbWdg\VgVWaaV Tjarnargata 11 Lækjargata A^ia^A_‹i^6cYVgjc\^cc Lækjargata 2 Templarasund 3 I‹bVhVg7aaVc ') Hverfisgata Located inside the City Hall with a great Lækjargata 6b Café Rósenberg features a venue for Laugav'% One of Reykjavík’s classics, with a view Geirsgata 1 view over the pond, this coffee house easy going troubadours, jazz bands and over the pond and a menu almost Known for its all you can eat fish buffet, '. egur has a good selection of cakes and pas- blues groups, providing a relaxed atmo- &) solely consisting of traditional Icelandic Frequently lauded by Iceland’s hamburg- this restaurant/guesthouse is also a fine HEDII=>H/=VbWdg\VgVWaaVI‹bVhVg ( er aficionados as the best place to get a tries for pedestrians who like to relax sphere almost every day of the week and Skóla & dishes, this restaurant is just as popular place to sit down and relax with a latté real hamburger in Reykjavík, ‘Búllan’ (as after a stroll in the centre. A large topo- making Rósenberg one of a very few jazz Geirsgata 1, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 511 1888 &( among tourists as it is among Reykjavík’s or some beer when suffering from a case FESTiVAL&+ . it’s affectionately known to the locals) graphic model of Iceland and regular art clubs living up to its name in Reykjavík. &. - residents. The reindeer-steak with port- of severe hipster-burn. vörðustígur '* exhibits add to the pleasure. The live gigs, which are almost guaran- Frequently lauded by Iceland’s hamburger ers that are sure to take the edge off any '- sauce or the pickled herring and ferment- does indeed serve up some extra-tasty )- burgers that are sure to take the edge teed on weekends, attract a very mixed aficionados as the best place to get a real hangover. What makes it so good is hard Klapparstígur (& ed shark served with Icelandic schnapps '' off any hangover. What makes it so good crowd, all looking for that chilled-out hamburger in Reykjavík, ‘Búllan’ (as it’s to say, but liberal helpings of rare beef con- (% both come highly recommended. feel. affectionately known to the locals) does tribute a lot. in collaboration with Pourquoi Pas? is hard to say, but liberal helpings of rare indeed serve up some extra-tasty burg- beef contribute a lot. * &' &. )& ;6HI;DD9 )- 7VWVa 7Zaan»h Óa^kZg (- ), Ìc¨hij\gŽhjb Skólavörðustígur 22a Hafnarstræti 18a Laugavegur 20a 6bZg^XVcHinaZ Ìc¨hij\gŽhjb Walking up Skólavörðustígur, you can’t A spacious pub, although the complete If you like trendy party-types who dance (* Tryggvagata 26 Laugavegur 20B miss café Babalú, a pleasant destination opposite of bright and airy, Belly’s de- like crazy to a lively mix of music where in its own right, as it has to be ranked serves praise for having the cheapest glamour is all that counts on the spa- What makes American Style burgers dis- Many locals claim this to be the best as one of the cosiest places for a coffee bar-price around, selling a large beer cious dance floor, the stylish Óliver is tinct from all the other ones in the city is vegetarian restaurant in town offering a and cake. With nice old sofas and books for only 350 ISK. Attracting a mixture the nightclub for you. For all the others the size, the soft bun and the amount of menu with plenty of vegan and vegetar- lining the shelves, you can’t help feel- of students, sailors and all those who who hate that kind of a party, the good (+ ', fresh veggies used as toppings. Grab a ian options, both healthy and tasty. Ask ing you are at your grandma’s place. We don’t want to drain the wallet, there are air-conditioning, fine food and excellent &, seat in one of the booths with your bbq for the daily special or try the selection could sit there every day, all day, if our enough tables for everyone and TVs on brunch served during the day makes Austurstr heavy special with bacon and cheese, of three different courses. The Indian daily duties wouldn’t pull us out again. every wall for all you sports enthusiasts Óliver a recommended choice for mid- (' æti Ingólfsstræti fries and a soda, and you won’t be hun- theme on Fridays is usually a hit and the out there. priced meals. Bankastræti gry for hours. sugar free banana cake just one of the Hverfisgata highly tempting desserts. )% ) Lækjargata Skólavörðustígur Laugavegur + HZ\V[gZYd &( @V[[^WVg^cc '% 7Vg&& )' E^ooV@^c\ ). @ZWVW=h^ By Lækjartorg Bergstaðastræti 1 Laugavegur 11 )( Hafnarstræti 18 Lækjargata 2 (, *% The Italian coffee-chain found its spot in A popular coffee place on weekdays, es- Featuring occasional concerts on Friday Tjarnargata & This small pizza place is not only cheap Fancy a kebab? There aren’t many choic- Þingholtsstræti () the heart of Reykjavík, with its windows pecially among students and downtown nights and DJs calling the tunes every * but offers the largest slices of pizza you’ll es – Kebab Húsið is the only place selling facing the Lækjartorg Square. Serving workers who like to enjoy a bottle of weekend, Bar 11 is a popular late-night Bergstaðarstræti get downtown. Charging only 350 ISK them in the city. But if you don’t set the lunch snacks like paninis and strong beer after a busy day. At weekends, Kaf- haunt on two floors. Emphasizing old Frakkastígur per slice, not to mention the special standard too high and note that you’ll espressos for coffee lovers whether you fibarinn becomes the opposite of a quiet rock’n’roll classics and chart-toppers, the lunch offer where a 10” pizza with three never have to wait longer than five min- need to grab a cup and sandwich on the destination, as its two floors fill up with crammed dance floor tends to turn into Óðinsgata toppings of your choice and a can of utes for your piping hot döner with veg- way to work or want to enjoy your drink the late-night souls. With DJs playing live a war zone at weekends when it’s impos- Coke costs only 800 ISK, Pizza King is gies, yoghurt and chilli sauce, you’re in on the spot. sets from Wednesday to Saturday, the sible to have a private chat. That whole a local favourite. The fact it’s open until for a fine meal. Especially popular among party doesn’t start winding down until fiasco can be an interesting experience, 6 on Friday and Saturday nights doesn’t hungry club crawlers on weekends. early morning. especially if you join in the fun. hurt either. Barónsstígur

, @V[[^i{g &) H^g`jh '& =gZhh‹ ') Eg^`^ ', @V[[^6bhiZgYVb (% 9^aadc (( =dgc^ (+ H_{kVg`_VaaVg^cc )( 7Zgc]Ž[ihWV`Vg† *% 6jhijgaVcYV" Bankastræti 8 Klapparstígur 30 Austurstræti 20 Bankastræti 12 Hafnarstræti 5 Laugavegur 30 Hafnarstræti 15 Aðalstræti 2 Bergstaðarstræti 13 ]gVÂaZhi^c At Kaffitár, making coffee is a way of Attracting a mixed crowd of party-peo- A spacious neutral place with no par- This two-floor café/pub has been a part One of 101’s more established taverns, The quintessential rock-pub, Dillon fea- The casual family-friendly Italian-style In an elegant setting, Seafood Cellar It’s a bakery, the oldest one in the city Hverfisgata 64A celebrating life. Offering all sorts of deli- ple, the small bar Sirkus has always been ticular type of clientele, Hressó is a place of Reykjavík’s bar scene for decades. Kaffi Amsterdam seems to have been in tures moderately priced drinks, a dark corner restaurant has operated at the chefs serve gourmet fusion style dishes, in fact, selling all sorts of bakery goods, Although a little pricey for a take-away, cacies to go with your morning fuel and popular among musicians and the cre- where the menu spans a variety of lunch With a large and fairly cheap bistro business forever, really, as some of their and cosy mood and some pretty good same spot since 1979 when it became where the emphasis is not only on ocean snacks and an extensive selection of the charging around 1600 ISK for a main a nice selection for those with a sweeter ative crowd who get along well although dishes during the day and troubadours menu, Prikið attracts a mix of university decorations bear witness. Recently re- music (especially when local favourite a loyal member of the Icelandic dining- delights, but also on all sorts of tempt- sweet stuff from early dawn. We particu- course, the food is well worth that extra tooth, it’s an excellent choice for eat in the breathing space can be limited on and tap-beer are the order of the night. students with their laptops and elderly invented as a live venue, weekends see DJ Andrea Jóns mans the decks). The out tradition. Most famous for its pizzas ing Asia-inspired dishes. The most fun larly love the spelt bread in the morning, spending once in a while. Serving typi- or take away. Their special coffee-blends weekends. While Sirkus’s DJs provide for A somewhat basic club during week- devoted regulars during the day while some of Reykjavík’s most rockin’ bands tattooed, beer-lovin’ types who hang and the generously stuffed calzone, the is to order the exotic menu, a range of and some snúður, kleina and vínarbrauð cal Indian dishes, the menu is a treasure are a tad pricy, but well worth that little the greatest party possible every week- ends, notable for its size and amount of the younger clientele fills up the space strap on their guitars for some… rockin’. out there on school nights are joined by wholesome menu prides itself on all sorts courses carefully selected by the chef, to go with the afternoon coffee. chest for those with a penchant for a extra change. If you like your coffee, buy end, the bar occasionally hosts concerts seats. during the evening and especially at The beer’s also cheap and you will get legions of parka-clad students during of high-standard pasta dishes, vegetarian and share it with your dining partners. spicy bite. There are also a few tables in- a bag of beans to take home. on weeknights. weekends when the music is mostly exposed to some ‘colourful’ characters. weekends, creating a party atmosphere and meat courses, all very affordable. side for those who choose to dine in. dedicated to hip-hop and R&B. that’s always fun to partake in. G:N@?6KÏ@TL>CI:GTA><=IHT;:HI>K6AT'%%, G:N@?6KÏ@TL>CI:GTA><=IHT;:HI>K6AT'%%,

I]ZHVakVi^dcFjVgiZiHVakV\Zh the French Ambassador join the children in 444&./%% 8]^aYgZc»h>ciZgcVi^dcVa9Vn 444&-/%% HVijgYVn!;ZW#')!&(/%%"&-/%%ViciZgcVi^dcVa9Vn Location: Iðnó, Vonarstræti. 444'%/%% 444&)/%% Scotland, Denmark, Croatia and Germany. GdX`VcYGdaa!7gZV`9VcXZ EVgVYZVcYH^c\^c\ IAdmission: 200 ISK. 6aai]ZXdci^cZcih^cdcZeaVXZ# VcYHigZZiI]ZVigZ AVXZaVcY^X[da`YVcXZh gahlíð. Open from February 22 – 28. Music and mingling – tones and talk – excit- be waiting in Viðeyjarstofa, where the his- ;gZcX]8dciZhi en María Jónsdóttir, and others. Energetic dance lessons to a powerful drum Instruction in Icelandic folk dances and vi- ing Åland Islands cuisine. 444&+/%%"&-/%% tory of the island will be recounted. The ferry A French contest for French language stu- Location: Kartöflugeymslurnar by Ártúns- beat. Lots of motion, lots of rhythm. kivaki dances. 444'%/&* Location: Nordic Association by Óðinstorg. heads back at 22:15. dents in Icelandic secondary schools. The brekka. 6gVW^X8Vaa^\gVe]n 7Va`VcYVcXZh BZZiNdjg8^in8djcX^aBZbWZg Location: Sundahöfn contest theme is “France in Your Eyes”. How does the Arabic alphabet work? Chil- The Balkans are known for their rich danc- I]ZVigZIVa` AVcYhWVc`^cc=^hidgn:m]^W^i^dc Reykajvík City Council members invite citi- Students will communicate in French, using 444''/%% dren learn about the Arabic alphabet, and ing tradition and mesmerising music. The team behind the play Day of Hope, A guided tour of an exhibition of the 120 zens to sit down with them and discuss city almost any medium they can think of. Stu- draw a few Arabic letters. I]Zk^`^c\igVY^i^dc shown in the Reykjavík City Theatre, discuss- years of Landsbankinn’s history. matters. Light refreshments. HVijgYVn!;ZW#') dents can choose to work alone or in groups. 9^dcnhdhA^kZ^c>XZaVcY <]VcVYVcX^c\ Workshops in both weapon making and es the production with guests. Location: Aðalstræti. Location: City Hall. Preliminary contests will be held in all sec- Dionysos is a French rock band formed in The dance reflects the history of Ghanaian fencing. Location: Reykjavík City Library – Kringlusafn, 444&'/%% ondary schools and the best project from 1993 in Valence. The group has released eight aborigines, tribal struggles and mating ritu- Kringlan. @gVb]h^Â9VcXZ;Zhi^kVaViCVhV 444&,/%% each school will enter the main contest. albums, garnering critical and popular suc- als. Cdgi]6bZg^XV A diverse multinational dance program from ;gVcXZ^ci]ZB^cYd[>XZaVcY^X Location: Iðnó, Vonarstræti. cess in France. Their music, a unique blend of =^e=deVcY@gjbe"YVcX^c\ 444'%/(% Kramhúsið. The Motion dance group dis- Thailand, strate and teach the art of balloon decora- Location: Reykajvík City Library – Grófarhús, music for guests after the program. Doors I]Z7ZVhi^cBZ ruary 24 at 12:00. First prize for each grade is Senior Citizens Theatre Group, Árskógar Lights Festival before a full house on Satur- where fruits and vegetables are carved in tions. Tryggvagata 15. open at 20:00. Joint exhibition of six artists from Egilsstaðir a ticket for two to Paris with Icelandair. Edda Song Group, Young dancers from Breiðholt, day night. an artistic manner on festive occasions. GVecG]nbZh Location: Nasa by Austurvöllur. in East Iceland. The exhibition is called The Publishing awards places 2-6 with books. Hrunamannahreppur’s Theatre Group, Po- Location: Reykjavík Art Museum – Hafnarhús, Dóri DNA and Steindór Andersen teach this 444'&/%% Beast In Me, and each of the artists con- The competition is run in cooperation with etry, Dance Group, an honorary guest, and Tryggvagata 17. 6jhigVa^V modern form of poetry with old roots. structs a piece to interpret the title. the Winter Lights Festival and the French cul- Breiðholt’s folk dance group. The band I]ZbV`^c\d[i]Z9^Y\Zg^Ydd 69Vg`A^\]i ;g^YVn!;ZW#'( Location: Kartöflugeymslan by Ártúnsbrekka. tural festival Pourquoi Pas? Vinabandið will play a few dance tunes. Entertaining and informative workshop Hdji]6bZg^XV British artists Kathryn Thomas, Tamany Baker Location: Ingólfsnaust, Aðalstræti 2. Location: City Hall, Vonarstræti. This program is subject to change. More where children learn how to decorate pipes 8Vg^WWZVcYVcX^c\ and Simon Whetham visited Iceland in De- 444%./(% 444&-/%% info, updates and a detailed program according to the old traditions of Australian The most popular dances from the Carib- cember 2005 and were captivated by the 444&(/%% 444&+/%% available at www.visitreykjavik.is. aborigines. bean. Excellent opportunity to get to know endless darkness and the harsh Icelandic ;g‚gZ?VfjZh I‹cVW¨g;gZZhinaZ9VcXZ =dlideaVni]Z9^Y\Zg^Ydd South-American and Caribbean culture. winter. The result is their joint exhibition, A 400 young children from the city’s day care 8dbeZi^i^dc L^ciZg

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Reykjavík Museum Night is an extravaganza lectures or guided tours through their exhi- where all museums in Reykjavík open their bitions, and in many cases there are special doors and invite guests to enjoy special exhibitions put on display for the occation. programs, free of admissions. The Museum The full program for the Museum Night can Night bus will offer free rides between mu- be found on the back page. Carefully study seums between 19:00 and 01:00, making the program to select an art cocktail of your transportation easy. There are is a variety of liking. attractions available, most museums offer

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In relation to the Reykjavík Winter Lights in obtaining documents from immigrants to Festival, The Reykjavik Municipal Archives Iceland, not necessarily in Icelandic. To learn wishes to obtain documents from the citi- more, please contact the museum by phone, zens of Reykjavík for storage. The museum is 563-1770 or by e-mail, borgarskjalasafn@ particularly interested in diaries, letters, pho- reykjavik.is, or come by the museum Mon- tographs, post cards and other cards; and day – Friday between 10:00 – 16:00. The other personal documents. The documents museum can provide translation service if will be preserved for future generations for required. a»Dg\jZV;ZjI]Z;^gZDg\Vc AVXZaVcY educational and historical research purposes. It is possible to restrict access to the docu- The Reykjavik Municipal Archives l’Orgue a Feu or the Fire Organ is an instru- tubes of the Organ, which are generated by La Guardia Flamenca mixes the passion of ised fashion but then the emotions of the Dionysos are living proof that French creativ- vent an energetic rock with a original blend ments. The museum is especially interested Tryggvagata 15, 3rd floor. ment by French artist Michel Moglia that multiple vibrations within, are directly linked the flamenco dancer and the structure of the flamengo beat take over and the organised ity is still alive. They might not be the only of delicate melodies, simple folk and mis- transforms the heat from a flame into sound. to meteorology. In collaboration with Pour- majorettes in a charming way. With horns majorettes turn into dramatic expression of jewel in the crown, but they do shine more chievous technology. The concert is in col- The thermal exchanges that take place in the quoi Pas? blowing, the group marches in an organ- indivituality. brightly than most. Dionysos playfully rein- laboration with Pourquoi Pas? You will find the full schedule for the Museum Night on the back page 444 On cover: French band Dionysos Photo by: Benni Valsson & 86;wH - &* '' '* '- (& G:HI6JG6CIH () (, )) G:N@?6KÏ@TL>CI:GTA><=IHT;:HI>K6AT'%%,I†j9gdeVg C¨hi^7Vg 7dhidc yahid[Vc 7Vg^cc 6g\Zci†cV >cY^VcBVc\d 7¨_Vg^ch7Zhij @V[[^=a_‹bVa^cY Laugavegur 27 Ingólfsstræti 1a Laugavegur 28b Vegamótastígur 4 Laugavegur 22 Kdg HiZV`]djhZ Frakkarstígur 12 Tryggvagata Laugavegur 21 A very nice, old-fashioned café. It’s sub- Næsti Bar can be a godsend on those Located above the second-hand fashion Ölstofan has been attracting a clientele Up-and-coming Barinn is becoming Laugavegur 24 Barónstígur 11 Located on a quiet Laugavegur side There’s a good reason why there’s always terranean, as all traditional coffee shops nights when queues seem to snake all store Spútnik, with its roomy bar floor of late twenties and up who come for quite popular among Reykjavík party street, Indian Mango has infused the a line in front of Bæjarins Bestu, regard- This organic, free-trade café prides itself Vor’s refreshing take on café-style eat- True to its name, restaurant Argentína should be, and this place makes you feel the way down Laugavegur, no seats are and nice sofas in the lounge room up- the drink and stay for the company, as scenesters. Its three floors and equally Reykjavík restaurant scene with incred- less of the weather or time of day. Select- on being a non-profit company and a ing is marked by its use of fresh ingre- specialises in Argentinean steaks and warm, both with its atmosphere and the available anywhere and you just want to stairs, Boston is a fresh addition to the blasting DJs here have been replaced by numerous bars get quite crowded dur- ible delicacies originating in the rich food ed the best hot-dog stand in Europe by dedicated venue for the hardcore and dients and a health-conscious menu that southern decorations where dancing BjhZjbC^\]igenerosity of ;g^YVn!;ZW#'(the coffee refills. chat with some friends over a beer. Fre- Reykjavík bar scene. Old-school yet styl- nice background music to go with the ing weekends where a mix of dancing traditions from the Goa region in India, The Guardian, a fact locals realized de- cultural scene by hosting concerts, lec- emphasises French and Mediterranean flames in the fireplace welcome every quented by the literary and acting elite, ish interiors, and enough tables to cre- drink. Better show up early on week- downstairs and chatting upstairs make honed to perfection at the Four Seasons, cades ago, it has been serving “ein með tures and poetry nights. Serving delicious cuisine. The fresh spring salad and the guest that walks inside. The tender meat, those folk usually don’t mind if you pop ate a good vibe, make the place a comfy ends before the regular clientele rushes for a good night out. Though mostly a during the owner’s period as head chef. öllu” (“one with the lot”) to downtown Participatesoups and vegetarian in Museum dishes as Night well as and have a forward and tell the story behind the photo. 444 '&/(% Björn Thoroddsen’ Trio plays History Museum answer questions. excellent carrot-ginger soup are excellent excellent wines, generous portions and a in for a quick beer and make use of some café as well as a laid-back tavern where in as its popularity makes it hard to find DJ bar, Barinn occasionally hosts live gigs A local favourite, Indian Mango is known pedestrians since 1935, making it the chanceorganic totea, see coffee the and real cake, Mona this is Lisa.the Participa- 444 &./(%  '&/%%. Guided tour of With a French music. Hlemmur bus terminal. pick-me-ups on rainy days, and the cof- selection of quality cognac, whiskey, li- of the (usually) available tables, so long the music is good but never intrusive. a table. and is always a fun party venue. both for the quality of the food as well oldest fast food restaurant in the coun- place to visit for a reasonably priced fee served is of the highest quality. queurs and cigars all helped in making it tion slips available at the Tourist Information Silver Needle, exhibition asof you women’s don’t sing. artistic 444''/(% Foss. The artist Rúrí gives a guided &./(%!'&/%%''/(% Natural History Muse- as the service. try. Grabbing a bite couldn’t be easier. Officehealthy inlunch. Aðalstræti 2 and all participating handicraft through centuries past. tour of the exhibition. um? Yes Please! Guided tour and discussions a recommended place for fine dining. museums. Get stamps from the museums. Suðurgata 41, open 19:00 – 24:00. 444 '(/%% La Guardia Flamenca perform in the museum’s exhibition area. february One' lucky winner will travel to Paris and. see &+ Anda la Banda.'( Hlemmur'+ 3 - 5. '. (' (* (- )* the Mona Lisa.XZaVcY^X;^h]8]^eh H¨\gZ^[^cc Fj^ocdh FRI.09 informationHverfisgata at www.visitreykjavik.is 16a Laugavegur444 &./%% 18 ¶ ')/%% Urban Youth.Vegamótastígur The Cen- –4 24:00. Hverfisgata 18 in the North.Austurstræti Short lectures 12 and discussions: Ingólfsstræti 3 Aðalstræti 12 Tryggvagata 8 Verbúð 8, Geirsgata Lækjargata 8 A small antique-style non-smoking cof- On the top floortre offor the Oral giant History bookstore collects Vegamót childhood (crossroads) stories has an appealing Located inside the Intercultural Cen- Dr.Located Snorri in a Baldurssonformer drugstore, and Deco Dr. is Guðmundur an A spacious A. designer bar specially suited Last time we checked, Maru manages Not the regular fish’n’chips diner but a Located right next to the Reykjavík har- A chain of sandwich outlets special- & SETH SHARP :^cVg?‹chhdc6giBjhZjbfee house in a Hverfisgata basement, Mál og Menning,from you’ll Reykjavík find the citizens, casual oldlunch and menu, young. they Come serve brunchGZn`_Vk†`6giBjhZjb during tre, Cultura is a restaurant/bar with a Guðmundssonupper-middle priced from bar/bistro the Natural catering Historyfor an Mu- evening drink, the newly reno- to shell out some near-perfect sushi at healthy restaurant using only organic bour, Sægreifinn fish shop and restau- izing in toasty baguette-style subs, but legendary for its early opening hours, booklover coffee house Súfistinn. What the weekends, and the kitchen is open cosmopolitan feel, hosting an array of to those who prefer elegant surround- vated Q-Bar is a welcome addition to the very reasonable prices. Their downtown vegetables, quality fish products and rant is truly like no other you’ll witness in also serving soups and salads. Choose SAT.10 DeZc^c\d[BjhZjbC^\]iamazing breakfast and strong coffee we love aboutand this shareplace is yourthe selection memories until and 22:00 stories. daily. After that the¶ÌhbjcYVghV[c beat goes events and various theme nights like seum.ings. A good choice for a light lunch or nightlife downtown. In stylish and com- location makes it an excellent place for no wheat or white sugar in its kitchen. the country. The menu features various your toppings and variety of sauces and 444that &./%% will easily The wake Museum you up in the Night morn starts- of in books the and444 magazines&./%%¶%&/%% you can takeLets Makeon, and Poetry! you can Joincheck usthe end444 results &./%% in ¶Salsa '&/%% teaching, Workshop tango nights for and children fusion Möguleikhúsið,an afternoon glass Hlemmur,of red vine. Featuresopen 19:00 fortable - 24:00 surroundings, with a lounge-like take-away, a fact that’s emphasised (and Deep-fried catch of the day served with fish dishes and a rich portion of the best you’ll get a fresh sandwich to suit your mysticaling. We especially garden recommend of the Einar The JónssonTruck, Artfrom Mu- the storein and creating read while collage enjoying poems. photos published the day after– Thinkingon their aboutparties. form The menuand colour features all sorts of an above average whiskey selection. atmosphere, a good vibe and plenty of suggested) by the menu. When dining oven baked potatoes and Skyronnes, lobster soup we’ve ever tasted. It also ca- taste. Ask for the lamb sub, an Icelandic seumAmerican where style a breakfast chilly winter consisting evening of a will breakfast, be 444 light lunch or afternoonArts Exhibition.website www.vegamot.is. Artwork If you444 like Oli- Guidedinternational tour dishesof the like exhibition Thai soup, Spanwith- seats, the place never gets uncomfort- in, however, make sure to compliment a sauce made out of the fat-free milk ters to groups upstairs where the room speciality. Then put a double chocolate eggs, bacon, pancakes, fried potatoes, coffee. Browse the&./%%¶%&/%% shelves and grab a ver, try Vegamót and vice versa. '%/%% ish tapas, fahjitas and falafel mixed with I]ZGZn`_Vk^`Bjc^X^eVa6gX]^kZhably crowded nor too noisy for con- your spicy tuna maki with a nice glass of product Skyr and flavoured with all sorts looks more like a cabin than a diner and chunk brownie in your take-away box transformedtomatoes, syrup into and a toast.quiet The summer bagels night.table. from the City Library’s Artoteque. special focus bistroon Sveinson’s regulars such Paris as sandwiches years. and 444&./%%!'&/(%'(/(% Projectionversation, of old making it a popular pre-club Asahi ‘Super Dry’ and a chaser of sake. of spices, on the side for 1350 ISK. They the Sea Baron himself can often be seen. and you’re good to go. 444are'%/(%''/%% also excellent. Concert. Performers: Pa- 444'%/%%¶')/%%Knitting Café. The City Li- 444 '&/%% Gujasalads. Dögg Hauksdóttir director Reykjavík post cards. destination. also offer take-away at all times. The good food and welcoming service FRI.16 mela de Sensi, flute, and Sophie Schoonjans, brary’s handicraft enthusiasts instruct guests of the Reykjavík Art Museum – Architecture 444&./(%!'%/(%''/(% Our Town (1957). make this place a must-try. harp. in the art of knitting and other handicraft. Department talks about the architecture of A Reykjavík movie by Magnús Jóhannesson. Njarðargata, open 19:00 – 24:00. 444'%/%%¶')/%%. Film a Short. Shoot your Ásmundarsafn. 444'%/%% Savings, Stocks and Bonds – Op- SAT.17 ( Bd``V &% HkVgiV@V[[^ &, 8V[‚8don (. 6e‹iZ`7Vg"XZaVcY with the help of Theodór Kristjánsson, ani- Þóranna Dögg Björnsdóttir. Four saxophone bank for all. 444Mokka has been attracting coffee-thirsty A cosy second floor café offering lunch Reykjavík’s only gay-bar at the time of 444 )& With airy and stylish interiors and excel- Renowned for its greasy sandwiches, regulars'%/%% since Look 1958, at making art. A it guided the oldest tour throughsnacks and cappuccinosmator and to computer Laugavegur expert.writing, All Café equipment Cozy is indeed players very cosy, and four projected images. Saxo- '&/%% Guðni Th. Jóhannesson, historian lent menu, it’s no wonder this restau- Nonnabiti, or Nonni as the locals call it, the exhibition Regard Fauve for the whole will be available. phone players: Sigurður Flosason, Jóel Páls- gives a lecture on Iceland’s defences against Hafnarstræti)+ café in the city centre and the founder of pedestrians every day of the week. The and especially so if you happen to be )) rant is always packed during weekends. is one of the more popular junk food family.a very rich coffee culture in the country. appeal lies partly444 '%/%%'(/&* in their famous Súpa Casting same-sex the Runes. oriented. Learn During son, weekends, Eyjólfur Þorleifsson and Óskar Guðjóns- nuclear attacks during the Cold War. (( Located inside a building that used to places around, offering a large selection 444Its old'&/%% interiors Authors full of character Pétur make Gunnarsson the í brauði, and (translates to use Soup tarot in cardsbread), andbut oldthis magical small café runes usually with turns son. into a full- 444 ''/%% Halldór Guðmundsson, literary house the downtown pharmacy, the res- of take-away or dine in subs, sandwich- stay both relaxing and comfortable and also in the romantic atmosphere created fledged discothèque with bouts of table taurant is a true haven for food lovers es and burgers with a nice dash of the Sigurðura great place Pálsson to linger talk on a aboutSunday af European- by candlelight art Eva on everyHauksdóttir table and fromeasy- thedancing Witchcraft and generalStore. hedonismÁsmundarsafn while by Sigtún, open 19:00 – scholar talks about the author Þórbergur Austurstræti&' )' where the pleasure of dining in the open unique Nonni-sauce. If you have a late andternoon. literature Mokka’s at regular the artbeginning exhibits are of thelistening 20th music. 444 A '%/%%¶'%/(%nice hideaway in the Writing weeknights a Song. find Musician the clientele 24:00. discussing Þórðarson. '+ + and lively environment is almost inde- night craving there’s no need to worry, century.always worth a look. early evening Ingvifor a drink Þór or Kormáksson two. instructscurrent-affairs guests over in pintsthe and cups of 444'(/%% Modern Magic. The ideology be- (. scribable. After the meal, order a Mojito Nonni is open longer than most other 444 ''/(% Guided tour through the exhibi- basic principles of song writing.coffee. 6HÏ6giBjhZjb hind magic and how it is manifested in mod- '& – it’s the best you’ll get in the city. places. tions Jón Stefánsson Pupil of Matisse and 444 '&/%%  ''/%% Breaking the Silence. 444&./%%¶')/%% Exhibitions in Ásmundar- ern society. Lecture by Eva Hauksdóttir from ). Bank &- Ingólfsstræti Regard Fauve. Have you always dreamt about being loud at salur and Gryfja: Trance by Eygló Harðardót- the Witches’ Store. astræti 76GHC7>HIGDH )* &* Fríkirkjuvegur 7, open 19:00 – 24:00. the library? Join Óskar Einarsson, conductor tir. Paintings, drawings and text done in a 444%%/%% Magga Stína and Kristinn H. Árna- , ' ) G{Â]h`V[[^ && &- G‹hZcWZg\ && '( )% K^ÂI_Žgc^cV ), =VbWdg\VgVWaaV Tjarnargata 11 of the Reykjavík Gospel Choir, in communal hypnotic state of mind. son perform songs by Megas and others. Lækjargata A^ia^A_‹i^6cYVgjc\^cc Lækjargata 2 Templarasund 3 I‹bVhVg7aaVc singing. Everyone can join in! 444 Exhibition opening in The Reykjavik Municipal Archives, Tryggva- ') Hverfisgata H^\jg_‹cÓaV[hhdc6giBjhZjbLocated inside the City Hall with a great Lækjargata 6b Café Rósenberg features a venue'%/%% for ¶ ')/%% Laugav'% One of Reykjavík’s classics, with a view Geirsgata 1 444view '%/%% over the School pond, thischildren coffee introduce house works Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagataeasy going troubadours, 15. jazz Arinstofa:bands and Etienne de France. LIFE SUCKS! gata 15, open from 19:00 – 01:00. over the pond and a menu almost Known for its all you can eat fish buffet, '. egur has a good selection of cakes and pas- blues groups, providing a relaxed atmo- &) solely consisting of traditional Icelandic Frequently lauded by Iceland’s hamburg- which they have selected from the museum’sthis restaurant/guesthouse Open 19:00 is –also 01:00. a fine Photographs. HEDII=>H/=VbWdg\VgVWaaVI‹bVhVg ( tries for pedestrians who like to relax sphere almost every day of the week and dishes, this restaurant is just as popular er aficionados as the best place to get a website www.lso.is. place to sit down and relax with a latté Etienne de France is a young French artist. In I]Z8jaijgZ=djhZ Skóla & after a stroll in the centre. A large topo- making Rósenberg one of a very few jazz &( among tourists as it is among Reykjavík’s real hamburger in Reykjavík, ‘Búllan’ (as or some beer when suffering from a case Geirsgata 1, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 511 1888 &+ . 444graphic ''/%% model Guided of Iceland tour and throughregular art the exhibi- CdgY^X=djhZ clubs living up to its name inhis Reykjavík. works he deals with the virtual reality of 444'%/(% The final days of the exhibition Ice- &. - residents. The reindeer-steak with port- it’s affectionately known to the locals) of severe hipster-burn. vörðustígur '* tion.exhibits add to the pleasure. 444 &./%%! '%/(%! ''/%%The  live '(/(% gigs, whichParques are almost the guaran internet- and proposesFrequently laudedquestions by Iceland’s regard- hamburgerlandic ersFashion that are Design sure to takeFeaturing the edge ten off Icelandicany '- sauce or the pickled herring and ferment- does indeed serve up some extra-tasty )- burgers that are sure to take the edge teed on weekends, attract a very mixed aficionados as the best place to get a real hangover. What makes it so good is hard Klapparstígur (& ed shark served with Icelandic schnapps Laugarnestangi 70, open 19:00 – 24:00. Majeures “Alive and virtual installation”. ing utopia, reality and virtual community. designers. Exhibition ends February 27. '' off any hangover. What makes it so good crowd, all looking for that chilled-out hamburger in Reykjavík, ‘Búllan’ (as it’s to say, but liberal helpings of rare beef con- (% both come highly recommended. World premiere of a 20 feel.minute virtual real- The exhibition is partaffectionately of Pourquoi known Pas? to the locals) does444 '&/(%tribute a lot. ''/(% Ólöf Arnalds performs is hard to say, but liberal helpings of rare XZaVcY^X (, *% The Italian coffee-chain found its spot in A popular coffee place on weekdays, es- Featuring occasional concerts on Friday Tjarnargata & () This small pizza place is not only cheap Fancy a kebab? There aren’t many choic- basicthe heart moves of Reykjavík, of disco with dancing. its windows pecially amongGrófarhús, students and downtown Tryggvagata nights 15, and open DJs calling 19:00 the tunesand everypresent mayor of Akranes, both called Eg^cibV`Zgh6hhdX^Vi^dcÞingholtsstræti but offers the largest slices of pizza you’ll es – Kebab Húsið is the only place selling Kistuhylur 4, open 19:00 – 24:00. – 01:00. Gísli, sing and play for guests. Repeated at 444&./%%¶')/%% Shadows of Love by Bragi * facing the Lækjartorg Square. Serving workers who like to enjoy a bottle of weekend, Bar 11 is a popular late-night Bergstaðarstræti get downtown. Charging only 350 ISK them in the city. But if you don’t set the lunch snacks like paninis and strong beer after a busy day. At weekends, Kaf- haunt on two floors. Emphasizing23:00 old Ásgeirsson. Lithography on Hahnemühle A3 Frakkastígur per slice, not to mention the special standard too high and note that you’ll GZn`_Vk†`=Zg^iV\ZBjhZjb¶ÌgW¨_Vg"espressos for coffee lovers whether you fibarinn becomesGZn`_Vk†`6giBjhZjb¶=V[cVg]h the opposite of a quiet rock’n’roll classics and chart-toppers,444 ''/(% the Wine tasting. Selected French paper. 100 numbered copies available. lunch offer where a 10” pizza with three never have to wait longer than five min- need to grab a cup and sandwich on the destination, as its two floors fill up with crammed dance floor tends to turn into Óðinsgata toppings of your choice and a can of utes for your piping hot döner with veg- hV[c!GZn`_Vk†`7diVc^XVaXZaVcY^X;ddY>chi^iji^dc HÏB¶I]Z6hhdX^Vi^dcd[>XZaVcY^X Barónsstígur bæjarsafn, Reykjavík Botanical Garden and 444 '%/(% Erró – Forgotten Future – water 444'%/%%VcY''/%% Biscuit for a Mitten A K^hjVaVgi^hih Reykjavík Energy History Museum invite you paintings from 1981-2004. Þorbjörg Gun- short lecture on food relations between Ice- 444&./%%¶%&/%%The SÍM house is decorat- for, an educational@V[[^i{g walk from Hlemmur&) to H^g`jhnarsdóttir gives a guided'& tour through=gZhh‹ the land and France') in theEg^`^ past. Sigrún Ólafsdót- ed', with a@V[[^6bhiZgYVb piece by SÍM’s January guest(% artist, 9^aadc (( =dgc^ (+ H_{kVg`_VaaVg^cc )( 7Zgc]Ž[ihWV`Vg† *% 6jhijgaVcYV" LaugardalurBankastræti and the Reykjavík8 Botanical Gar- Klapparstígurexhibition. 30 Austurstræti 20 tir, ethnologist. Bankastræti 12 Shingo YoshidaHafnarstræti from 5 Japan, Comfort Place Laugavegur 30 Hafnarstræti 15 Aðalstræti 2 Bergstaðarstræti 13 ]gVÂaZhi^c dens.At Kaffitár, Along making the way,coffee historians is a way of willAttracting inform a mixed444 '&/(% crowd of Guided party-peo tour- throughA spacious the neutral exhibi- place with444 no'&/%% par- FrenchThis two-floorsongs. Performed café/pub has by been Sigríður a part #3.One Inside, of 101’s anmore exhibition established taverns,by February The guest quintessential rock-pub, Dillon fea- The casual family-friendly Italian-style In an elegant setting, Seafood Cellar It’s a bakery, the oldest one in the city Hverfisgata 64A participantscelebrating life. on Offering the life all sortsof Reykjavík of deli- women,ple, the small tionbar Sirkus Celebration has always beenPark – Pierreticular type Huyghe. of clientele, Part Hressó Thorlacius is a place andof Steingrímur Reykjavík’s bar Karl scene Teague. for decades. artists,Kaffi Amsterdam Megan seemsO’Beirne to have and been Clare in Carter.tures moderately priced drinks, a dark corner restaurant has operated at the chefs serve gourmet fusion style dishes, in fact, selling all sorts of bakery goods, Although a little pricey for a take-away, whocacies before to go with the your days morning of electricity fuel and usedpopular the among of musiciansPourqoui and Pas? the cre- where the menu spans a varietyGrandagarður of lunch With 8, open a large 19:00 and – fairly 24:00 cheap bistro Hafnarstrætibusiness forever, 16. really, as some of their and cosy mood and some pretty good same spot since 1979 when it became where the emphasis is not only on ocean snacks and an extensive selection of the charging around 1600 ISK for a main a nice selection for those with a sweeter ative crowd who get along well although dishes during the day and troubadours menu, Prikið attracts a mix of university decorations bear witness. Recently re- music (especially when local favourite a loyal member of the Icelandic dining- delights, but also on all sorts of tempt- sweet stuff from early dawn. We particu- geothermal springs in Laugardalur to do 444''/(% D1 Birta Guðjónsdóttir – Guided 444&./%%¶')/%%Guest artist Sigbjörn Brat- course, the food is well worth that extra tooth, it’s an excellent choice for eat in the breathing space can be limited on and tap-beer are the order of the night. students with their laptops and elderly invented as a live venue, weekends see DJ Andrea Jóns mans the decks). The out tradition. Most famous for its pizzas ing Asia-inspired dishes. The most fun larly love the spelt bread in the morning, spending once in a while. Serving typi- laundry.or take away. Ca. Theirone specialand a coffee-blends half hour. weekends. Whiletour. Sirkus’s DJs provide for A somewhat basic club duringI]ZA^k^c\6giBjhZjb week- devoted regulars during the day while liesome from of Reykjavík’sNorway andmost Fiona rockin’ Kelly bands fromtattooed, Ireland beer-lovin’ types who hang and the generously stuffed calzone, the is to order the exotic menu, a range of and some snúður, kleina and vínarbrauð cal Indian dishes, the menu is a treasure 444are''/(% a tad pricy, A shorter but well versionworth that of little the walkthe from greatest party444 '(/%% possible every Guja week Dögg- Hauksdóttirends, notable for director its size and 444amount &./%% of ¶the ')/%% youngerAlmost clientele Nothing, fills up the space That exhibitstrap on intheir the guitars showroom for some… on rockin’. the ground out therefloor on school nights are joined by wholesome menu prides itself on all sorts courses carefully selected by the chef, to go with the afternoon coffee. chest for those with a penchant for a theextra Gazebo change. Ifin you the like Botanicalyour coffee, Gardenbuy end, to thethe bar occasionallyof the Reykjavík hosts concerts Art Museum seats. – Architecture is Not Nothing.during Exhibition the evening by and Michel especially Blazy, at ofThe Seljavegur beer’s also cheap32. and you will get legions of parka-clad students during of high-standard pasta dishes, vegetarian and share it with your dining partners. spicy bite. There are also a few tables in- a bag of beans to take home. on weeknights. weekends when the music is mostly exposed to some ‘colourful’ characters. weekends, creating a party atmosphere and meat courses, all very affordable. side for those who choose to dine in. laundry springs. Department talks about the architecture of Rebecca Bournigault,dedicated to hip-hop Jean-Baptiste and R&B. Bruant Seljavegur 32. that’s always fun to partake in. Hlemmur – Laugardalur, open 19:00 – 24:00 Hafnarhús. & Maria Spangaro, Clôde Coulpier, François 444 '(/(% French songs performed by Sig- Curlet, Robert Filliou & Joachim Pfeufer, HEGDC CVi^dcVaBjhZjbd[>XZaVcY ríður Thorlacius and Hjörtur Yngvi Jóhanns- Gérald, Philippe Meste, Hugues Reip and ¶6heZX^VahjeedgiZgd[BjhZjbC^\]i EZdeaZ;gdbi]ZEVhi8dbZ6a^kZ son, accordion player. Jean-Michel Wicker. The focal point of the 444&./%%¶')/%%Artist Ragnhildur Stefáns- 444'%/%%''/%%. Örn Magnússon, Marta Tryggvagata 17, open 19:00 – 01:00. exhibition is the 1978 work Poïpoïdrome, dóttir will exhibit sculptures in the SPRON Halldórsdóttir and Sigursveinn D. Kristinsson by Robert Filliou and Joachim Pfeufer. The branch on Skólavörðustígur. perform beautiful songs from past centuries, GZn`_Vk†`6giBjhZjb artists will work around the piece, further- 444 '&/%% La Guardia Flamenca perform using old instruments. Guests are encour- ¶@_VgkVahhiVÂ^g ing the idea of the “République Géniale” to Anda la Banda. aged to sing along. 444&./(%'%/(% Kjarval and Youth – guid- benefit mankind. Part of Pourqoui Pas? SPRON, Skólavörðustígur 11. 444 &./%% ¶ ')/%%. Historical people come ed tour and projects for children of all ages. Laugavegur 26. to life. Guests can try their hand at games 444 '%/%% Guja Dögg Hauksdóttir director and quizzes related to these people and the of the Reykjavík Art Museum – Architecture CVijgVa=^hidgnBjhZjb This program is subject to change. More collection. Department talks about the architecture of 444&./%%Have you Seen a Polar Bear? info, updates and a detailed program 444'%/%%¶''/%%. Exhibition of photographs Kjarvalsstaðir. Exhibition on the history of polar bears in available at www.visitreykjavik.is from the 1950s and the 1960s by Guðni 444 '&/%% K-Factor. Curator Einar Garibaldi Iceland and climate change. Þórðarson. People in the photographs step Eiríksson gives a guided tour of the exhibition. 444&./%%Q & A: Experts from the Natural B8_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 02_2007_REVIEWS/FOOD RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 02_2007_BEZT Í HEIMI_B9

Rauða húsið Domo Ban Thai

Búðarstígur 4, 820 Eyrarbakki, Tel.: 483 3330 Þingholtsstræti 5, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 552 5588 Laugavegur 130, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 552 2444

Located in a roomy, red building at Eyrarbakki, a small histor- Domo first opened its doors a little over a month ago. In the Many regard family run Restaurant Ban Thai as one of Reyk- ic fishing village on the south-coast of Iceland, the restaurant short time since its opening it has garnered a good reputati- javík’s hidden treasures in terms of authentic Thai cooking. I Rauða húsið (The Red House) is a friendly place definitely on through word of mouth. I am pleased to inform you that have been a regular there for many years, and their meticu- worth visiting. Due to its popularity, the restaurant moved the reputation is mostly well deserved. lously prepared food and relaxing atmosphere have always to a larger locale two years ago. Its two floors and small and The restaurant’s simplistic, yet elegant design presents an lived well up to my standards (although the service can be a cosy bar in the basement are open every day of the year, ca- aura of no-frills attitude towards fine dining. Monotonous little haphazard at times, depending on how crowded they tering to big groups as well as couples and individuals from black and white interior, peppered with warm wood and are). A personal favourite (especially when eating on a bud- lunchtime to late in the evening. red décor that give the place warmth, despite the minimalist get) is the perfectly spicy Tom Kha Kai soup, a single order This is predominantly a seafood restaurant, but while the design. It fits the menu perfectly. With a dominating Asian of which provides more than enough food for two persons, main attractions on the menu are the various fish dishes, themed cuisine, Domo offers a lot of sushi types and other especially when enjoyed with a Singha beer or two. Rauða húsið offers plenty of options for meat lovers, includ- “cold” dishes; yet, each dish is nicely decorated, earning Ban Thai was completely empty the Monday evening a ing lamb-carpaccio and a steak and lobster combo. praise from my companion as “the most beautiful food in companion and I dined there for reviewing purposes. The Since it’s not every day that one has such delicious seafood Reykjavík.” If nothing else, a dinner at Domo is an aesthetic mood was comfortable nonetheless, with mellow lighting BEZT Í HEIMI: Fylgifiskar dishes on offer, I decided to stick with the ocean’s delights. experience. and some pleasant Thai music blaring from the speakers. Af- As a starter, the Rauða húsið speciality – a creamy seafood We selected the Domo Surprise, a five-course combo se- ter browsing through the informative menu (among other Skólavörðustígur 8, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 533 1300 soup, rich with vegetables and the catch of the day – was lected by Domo’s chefs. At 6,800 ISK (ca. $100) it could be things, it features a detailed account of Thai food, and how an easy pick. Served with freshly baked bread and extremely considered a bargain, as on average, a simple starter comes to enjoy it) we decided on some Poh Tia Tord (spring rolls) The streetscape of Skólavörðustígur, stretching up salad one can get in this country and excellent sushi tasty, chunky hummus, the soup alone would have easily suf- at around 2,000 ISK and a main course around 4,000. The and Pla Mug Chup Pang Tord (deep fried squid) for start- from Laugavegur to the Hallgrímskirkja church, has trays are true luxuries and available for a reasonable ficed as a main course, and is, understandably, a reason for wine selection was left in the hands of the waiter, and he ers. Our entrées were tasty and crunchy in their deep-fried changed rapidly in the past few years. Where there price. the restaurant’s loyal customer base, which doesn’t let the proofed fit for the job. pleasantness, and the sweet and sour dipping sauce that ac- used to be less inviting clothing shops and old apart- Another opportunity to enjoy a fine Fylgifiskar 45 minute drive from Reykjavík prevent them from enjoying For starters, we were served a mixed sushi platter, eight companied them complimented the taste nicely. ment buildings there are now numerous galleries, de- meal is to choose some take-away. The wide selection that delicious hearty dish. My dining partner was equally sat- different kinds in total, with a glass of light Italian wine that Outside was quite cold, it being January and all, so we signer stores and gourmet shops. Among them is Fyl- of pre-prepared fish that’s been marinating in all sorts isfied with his creamy lobster soup, with cognac and large proofed fitting. They were all good and although my compa- opted for some of the hotter dishes for our main course. gifiskar, translated as Follow that Fish, a gourmet fish of exotic sauces is a treat every day of the week and pieces of lobster, and, as with my soup, it was a generous nion did not care for squid, I must mention the salmon maki, The Chicken Pad Khing’s ginger-laced infusion suited the flu- store and lunch deli specializing in everything that can comes highly recommended. You may select from at portion. which I thought stood out among them. season finely. Although we agreed that it could have done be caught in the ocean. A true pleasure palace for all least eight different items and several small courses. As a main dish, I ordered the lobster. Cooked to a melt- The second starter was a delight. First, a lightly broiled with a bit more spice the taste of fresh ingredients shone food lovers and the first of its kind in the city centre, Be it a dish of artic char with sesame seeds, fresh co- “One of Europe’s in-your-mouth perfection, served with salad, lemon slices kangaroo, served with pears and cashew nuts. Perhaps fit- through. the shop is a welcome addition to the downtown din- riander, garlic and sweet chilli-sauce or the traditional and garlic butter, just as simple as a lobster dish should be in tingly, the kangaroo was served with a glass of Australian Our favourite by far was the Kaeng Mas-Sa-Man, pork in ing tradition, especially for all the workers and inhabit- favourite Icelandic plokkfiskur, a homely fish stew with finest ensembles.” - BBC Music Magazine my view, it made me wonder why on earth I hadn’t visited white Riesling. Second, perfectly fried scallops with corian- a typical South-Thailand Masman curry. There’s a lot to be ants in the area. A generation that craves a diverse, potatoes and onion in white sauce, a recipe just like this place long before. The Lamb-Symphony was too inviting der. It was the peak of the night. said about properly spicy Thai food. Many Icelandic Thai res- healthy diet and modern ways in preparing fish has you would get at your moms place. Add some rye upcoming concerts to get my companion to try anything else. Although a little The main course consisted of fried cod in garlic and Soya, taurants tragically turn down the heat to accommodate the therefore welcomed the chance to choose from an as- bread and butter to your basket, crucial combos to THursdAy, March 1st @ 7:30pM THursdAy, March 15th @ 7:30pM too well done to his taste, the lamb, together with the fresh a delicious treat, lightly fried duck breast, a very good choice, nation’s virgin taste-buds, not realising that those who long tounding array of the seafood served in the shop from the Icelandic speciality, and you’re all set for a yummy beethovens’ eroica russian giants Conductor ::: Lawrence renes Conductor ::: rumon Gamba herbs, potato-omelette and Madeira sauce, more than satis- and grilled lamb with plum sauce, which I frankly felt was for mild food will simply… order mild food. While not scath- lunch to dinner hours. meal. In fact, if your hungry for some fish and salad soloist ::: Gunnar Kvaran soloists ::: Tatiana Monogarova fied his expectations. beneath the standards set by previous dishes. But again, the ingly hot, the pork dish still managed to sear our tongues Only freshly caught fish is good enough for this on the side, there’s no need to stop anywhere else on Hector Berlioz ::: Le Corsair, overture sir John Tomlinson As if the aforementioned food wasn’t enough, there was red Australian Shiraz Cabernet was a fitting selection. After while still allowing room for taste, something that makers of shop. Although somewhat small in size, it offers a the way home. Selling vegies, sauces, potatoes, rice, John speight ::: Cello Concerto Igor stravinsky ::: Fireworks Ludwig van Beethoven ::: symphony no. 3 sergei rackmaninov ::: Isle of death still some room for the sweet stuff. The Lava of Þjórsá was enjoying chocolate tarte, raspberry ice cream and exotic fruit, spicy food should always strive for in my opinion. The added large variety of fish products, including halibut, had- cheese and almost everything needed for preparing a dimitri shostakovich ::: symphony no. 14 the most tempting dessert. A warm chocolate cake with ice- the evening was brought to a close by another excellent se- nuts were a pleasant bonus. dock, scallops, monkfish, lemon sole, shrimps, catfish, whole meal, and you don’t even have to cook. Just put sATurdAy, March 10th @ 3:00pM cream and fruit, together with a cup of coffee, provided the lection by the waiter, a glass of France Muscat wine. Ban Thai has yet to fail me. salmon and cod and if anyone knows how to cook the fish in the oven and wait 20 minutes for a piping family concert THursdAy, March 22nd @ 7:30pM Conductor ::: Berharður Wilkinson romeo & juliet perfect ending to an outstanding meal. The excellent service As far as fine dining in Reykjavík goes, Domo is up there those delicious treats, it’s the chefs at Fylgifiskar. hot meal. Dinner preparations can’t get any simpler Benjamin Britten ::: young persons’ Guide Conductor ::: pietari Inkinen and friendly atmosphere made the stay even more pleasant. with the best of them. Serving daily specials until 14:00 every weekday, than that. to the Orchestra soloist ::: sif Tulinius Fylgifiskar is an excellent choice for hungry patrons piotr Tchaikovsky ::: romeo & Juliet sATurdAy, March 10th @ 5:00pM sofia Gubaidulina ::: Offertorium, who can grab some spicy oriental fish soup, tortilla Opening hours: Open weekdays 11:30 to 18:30. Closed chamber music at the national Concerto for Violin & Orchestra wrap generously filled with salmon and vegetables, between 14:00 and 15:00. gallery of iceland serge prokofiev ::: romeo & Juliet, fish of the day or just eat on the spot seated on a una sveinbjarnardóttir, violin from suite 1 & 2 sigurgeir Agnarsson, cello bar-stool with magazines to read. Small salads includ- Anna Guðný Guðmundsdóttir, piano THursdAy, March 29nd @ 7:30pM Reviewed by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Reviewed by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Reviewed by Haukur Magnússon ing piri-piri shrimps, smoked-trout salad, the best crab Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Hafliði Hallgrímsson ::: Metamorphoses easter concert Ludwig van Beethoven :: piano trio 1 & 2 Conductor ::: Hörður Áskelsson Claude debussy ::: piano trio Choir ::: Mótettukór Hallgrímsskirkju Felix Mendelssohn ::: paulus tickets sold at www.sinfonia.is or tel. 545 2500 All concerts take place in Háskólabíó unless otherwise noted.

Við Tjörnina seafood restaurant was established in 1986 and celebrates its 20 years annaversary now.

Opening hours are from 18.00 every day. F í t o n / S Í A

fl group is the main sponsor of Phone (+354) 551-8666. Templarasundi 3, 101 Reykjavík. the iceland symphony orchestra www.vidtjornina.is - [email protected] B10_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 02_2007_ULTIMATE SURVIVAL GUIDE RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 02_2007_ART/DANCE_B11

Services Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri Bankastræti 2, Tel: 510 5700, Service in English is at Hallgrímskirkja Icelandic citizenship although some Useful Numbers 09-16. www.kleif.is every last Saturday each month, start- exceptions exist to that general rule. Emergency number: 112 Information on day tours, accommo- ing at 14:00. The Roman Catholic Applications are at the Ministry of Police: 569 9000 Getting Around dations, car rental and everything else Church also has masses in English and Justice and Ecclesiastical Affairs, Medical help: 1770 Public transport you need to know when travelling in Polish. Skuggasund, Tel: 545 9000, Dental emergency: 575 0505 The only public transport system in Iceland. Other religious movements in Reykja- www.domsmalaraduneyti.is AA: 551 2010 Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run Iceland Visitor vík are for example: Unemployment benefits: Director- Information: 118 every 20 minutes and price per fare is Lækjargata 2, Tel: 511 2442, The Muslim Association of Iceland, ate of Labour, Public Employment Telegrams: 146 250 ISK for adults and 75 ISK for chil- www.icelandvisitor.com Ármúli 38 Service, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 515 4800, Tax Free Refund dren. Complete route map at: www. A travel agency offering travelling Ásatrú Association, Grandagarði 8 www.vinnumalastofnun.is Iceland Refund, bus.is. Tel: 540 2700 package trips and custom-made tours Bahá’í, Álfabakka 12 Icelandic social security number Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400 Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on as well as car rental, day tours and The Church of Evangelism, (kennitala): National Register, Bor- www.icelandrefund.com weekdays and 10:00-24:00 on week- accommodations for visitors. Hlíðasmári 9 gartún 30, Tel: 560 9800, Laundry Service ends Tourist Information Centre The Icelandic Buddhist Movement, www.hagstofa.is HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, Rent a bike Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, Víghólastígur 21 Driver’s license: Those who have a Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50, www.visitreykjavik.is Reykjavík Free Lutheran Church, foreign license don’t need an Icelandic Úðafoss, Vitastígur 13, Tel: 551 5653, www.borgarhjol.net Offers information for tourists as well Fríkirkjuvegur 5 one for the first six months. After that Tel: 551 2301, www.udafoss.is HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, as providing internet access, booking Pentecostal Assembly, Hátún 2 time you have one month to apply for Post Office Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is service, a phone centre, money ex- Roman Catholic Church, an Icelandic driver’s license. Applica- Post offices are located around the Tourist Information Centre, change service, tax refund and selling Hávallagata 14 tions are at police stations. city as well as in the countryside. Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, the Reykjavík Tourist Card. The Reykja- Church of Jesus Christ of Latter- Tax card: Tax office, Laugavegur 166, The downtown post office is at www.visitreykjavik.is vík Tourist Card gives admission to city Day Saints, Ásabraut 2 Tel: 563 1100, www.rsk.is Pósthússtræti 3-5. For a full list and Taxi busses, various museums, Reykjavík Jehovah’s Witnesses, Sogavegur 71 Rent subsidies: Social Service Office, info on opening hours visit www. Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir, swimming pools, The Family Park and Seventh-Day Adventists, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 411 9000 www. posturinn.is. Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522 Reykjavík Zoo, The Culture House and Suðurhlíð 36 felagsthjonustan.is Stamps are also sold in bookstores, BSR, Tel: 561 0000 the National and University Library. Zen Buddhism in Iceland, gas stations, some grocery stores and For disabled travellers The Icelandic Tourist Board Reykjavíkurvegur 31 Facts on Iceland tourist shops. Reykjavík Group Travel Service, Lækjargata 3, Tel: 535 5500, Independent Church, Iceland is a constitutional repub- Embassies and Consulates Brunastaðir 3, Tel: 587 8030, www. www.visiticeland.com Háteigsvegur 101 lic with slightly more than 300,000 in Iceland randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_trav- All information needed before travel- The Russian Orthodox Church in inhabitants. Reykjavík has been the United States, Laufásvegur 21, el_service/ ling in Iceland. Iceland, Sólvallagata 10 country’s capital since 1786 and today Tel: 562 9100 A useful brochure, Accessible Reykja- Goethe Institute The Cross, Hlíðasmári 5-7 almost two-thirds of the population United Kingdom, Laufásvegur 31, vík, can be found at tourist offices. Túngata 14, Tel: 561 5921, Trade Unions live in the greater capital area. Tel: 550 5100 Car rentals www.goethe.de/island The Icelandic Federation of Labour, The 17th of June 1944 Iceland Russia, Garðastræti 33, Átak Car Rental, Smiðjuvegur 1, A cultural institute that offers movie Sætún 1, Tel: 535 5600, www.asi.is became an independent republic. Tel: 551 5156 Tel: 554 6040 screenings, lectures and German The Federation of State and Mu- That day is the national holiday and is China, Víðimelur 29, ALP, Dugguvogur 10, Tel: 562 6060 language courses. nicipal employees, Grettisgata 89, celebrated all around the country. Tel: 552 6751 Avis, Knarravogi 2, Tel: 591 4000 Nordic House Tel: 525 8300, www.bsrb.is Alþingi, the national parliament, For a full list visit Ministry for Foreign Eurocar, Hjallahraun 9, Tel: 565 3800 Sturlugata 5, Tel: 551 7030, The Association of Academics, Bor- is the oldest assembly in the world, Affairs: www.mfa.is/diplomatic-mis- A.G Car Rental, Tangarhöfði 8-12. www.nordice.is gartún 6, Tel: 581 2090, www.bhm.is established at Þingvellir in 930 but sions/icelandic-missions/ Tel: 587 5544 The Nordic cultural centre organises Efling, Sætún 1, Tel: 510 7500, restored in Reykjavík in 1844. The par- Internet Access Atlas Car Rental, Dalshraun 9, various cultural events, conferences www.efling.is liament is comprised of 63 members, Most coffeehouses have wireless Tel: 565 3800 and exhibitions. The Commercial Workers’ Union, who are elected by popular vote every Internet access. Berg Car Rental, Tangarhöfða 8, All major tourist spots in Reykjavík also Kringlan 7, Tel: 510 1700, www.vr.is four years. Icelandic citizens over 18 Computers with Internet connections Tel: 577 6050 offer brochures, maps and information Union of Public Servants, Grettis- years of age have the legal right to are available at: Hertz, Flugvallavegur, Tel: 505 0600 for travellers. gata 89, Tel: 525 8340, www.sfr.is vote. Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Tjarnargata 11 Airlines Useful Websites Parliamentary elections were last BSÍ Bus Terminal, Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, Useful Information www.visitreykjavik.is (The official held in 2003 with 33.7 percent of Vatnsmýrarvegur 10 Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is Where to learn Icelandic as a tourist website of Reykjavík) votes going to the Independence Ground Zero, Vallarstræti 10 Air Vestmannaeyjar, Tel: 481 3255, foreign language www.gayice.is (Information about Party. The Social Democratic Alliance Taking Dance to the Extremes: Trolls and Transforma- The Reykjavík City Library, www.eyjaflug.is Icelandic on the Internet, the gay scene in Iceland) got 31 percent, the Progressive Party Tryggvagata 15 Bus Terminal www.vefskoli.is www.fjolmenningarsetur.is 17.7 percent, the Leftist-Greens 8.8 tions in February’s Grand Premiere The National and University Li- BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, Mímir Continuing Education, (The Multicultural Centre) percent and the Liberal Party 7.4 per- brary, Arngrímsgata 3 Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is Skeifán 8, Tel: 580 1800, www.mimir.is www.hostel.is cent. The Independence Party and the Tourist Information Centre, Samferda.net Námsflokkar Reykjavíkur, (Hostel International in Iceland) Progressive Party formed a coalition Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Photo by Skari Aðalstræti 2 A reasonable choice for the budget Fríkirkjuvegur 1, Tel: 551 2992 www.vinnumalastofnun.is and together lead the government. Icelandic Travel Market: Bankastræti 2 traveller. You log on to the website Fjölmenning, Laugavegur 59, (Public employment services) Iceland has 12 ministers with the Opening hours www.samferda.net, choose your Tel: 511 1319, www.fjolmenning.is www.gulalinan.is (The yellow pages) prime minister and head of govern- This February will see the premiere of two dancers. Remarkably, six of them are for- inspiration from Icelandic folklore. more like looking at a painting than watch- Bars and clubs: According to regula- destination and hopefully find a travel The Icelandic College of Engineer- www.leigulistinn.is (Rent a flat) ment being Geir H. Haarde, who is new pieces performed by the Icelandic Dance eigners. Grapevine met with Brad Sykes and When asked to clarify a bit, the guys be- ing TV.” tions bars may be open until 01:00 on buddy to share the cost. ing and Technology, Höfðabakki 9, www.simaskra.is also chairman of the Independence Company, an independent national institu- Cameron Corbett, and learned among other came quite mysterious. “We are doing two And then there is the question of mon- weekdays and 05:30 on weekends. Tel: 577 1400, www.thi.is (Icelandic telephone directory) Party. The President of Iceland is Ólafur tion focusing solely on contemporary and things that they love the small institution and very different and challenging pieces that are ey. A production like the one in the making Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun Cultural Centres and Iðnskólinn í Reykjavík, Where to get … Ragnar Grímsson, who has been in modern dance. Working this time with two their life in Reykjavík, they think of the group not predictable theatre pieces. There is lots takes endless time and daily rehearsals not closed. The shopping centres Kringlan Tourist Offices Skólavörðuholti, Tel: 552 6240, Work and residence permit: The office since 1996. He is the Chief of internationally acclaimed choreographers, as cultural ambassadors and would like to of crazy dancing, a huge amount of energy to mention the financial costs. The yearly fi- and Smáralind as well as most super- The Intercultural Centre www.ir.is Directorate of Immigration, Skógarhlíð State although his duties are mostly the group is in its final stage of rehearsing see more support from the government to and acrobatics. One of the pieces, the one nances are far from being enough and Brad markets and tourist shops have longer The Intercultural Centre throws oc- The University of Iceland – Depart- 6, Tel: 510 5400, www.utl.is. ceremonial. and creating the next performance that will give this art form the chance to grow at the we just started working on with Oliván, is and Cameron both agree that they would opening hours. casional cultural events and confer- ment of Continuing Education, Insurance and benefits: The State Time Zone: GMT 0 premiere February 23rd. same pace as other cultural institutions in the actually a bit of a secret because we are still like to see more support, especially as the Swimming pools: weekdays ences but its main purpose is to be an Dunhagi 7, Tel: 525 4924, Social Security Institute, Laugavegur Currency: Íslensk króna (ISK). While trying to be as versatile as possible, country. creating it and don’t know exactly how it will company provides service and entertainment 06:30-22:30, weekends 08:00-20:30 information and counselling centre www.endurmenntun.is 114-116, Tel: 560 4400, www.tr.is International Dialling Code: +354 nurturing young artists, developing the art Cameron Corbett, born in Portland, Ore- turn out. We do have certain themes we are to the public. although some may be open an hour and serve as an advocate for the rights Religious movements Icelandic citizenship: Unless you Weather: Average temperature dur- form and pushing it to the furthest limits gon, has been dancing in Iceland since 1997 focusing on though. Icelandic folklore, like “You would hope Iceland would have an longer. of immigrants in Iceland. The national church in Iceland is the come from a Nordic country, foreign ing summer is around 10ºC and winter with the aim of introducing Icelandic and and during that period has not only worked trolls, elves and stuff like that. Oliván is using organisation helping those who want to do The State owned ÁTVR liquor Hverfisgata 18, Tel: 530 9300 Evangelical Lutheran Church. Masses citizens have to have had an unre- 0ºC. For information on weather in international talents to the public and the for the Dance Company but has also taught some of that idealism as inspiration. It’s not the art and so the kids practising ballet can stores: Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat www.ahus.is are generally held on Sundays at 11:00 stricted residence permit in Iceland for Iceland visit www.vedur.is or Tel: 902 world, the Dance Company has always em- a lot. He is one of the founders of the Reyk- like the piece is going to be us dressed as have the hope of dancing as professionals 11-18. Icelandic Travel Market in churches all around the capital. at least seven years in order to get an 0600. phasized giving the audience a chance to see javík Dance Festival. little trolls though,” Brad tells me. in the future. This is one of the reasons for cutting-edge performances often connected “Before I came here, I was working in Although they have witnessed some in- having a dance company and a reason for with a wide range of local music creations to Germany as a solo artist for four years with creasing interests in the art of dance in Ice- supporting it” Brad explains and continues: give it that little extra kick. In recent years, basically one choreographer. Working with land, Cameron doesn’t want to go so far as “Our dream would be to be more important the Dance Company has worked with artists the Icelandic Dance Company is therefore a saying there has been an awakening in soci- in Icelandic culture. We are also introduc- and composers such as Quarashi, Gusgus, completely different experience for me,“ he ety. ing Icelandic modern dance to the world, the Iceland Symphony Orchestra, and múm says. “We have a nice core audience that al- by touring for example. Dance is an inter- to name just a few. Brad Sykes, a Canadian native, came to ways comes to shows and we do see new national language, that’s the beautiful thing Currently, it is a company of 14 dancers. Iceland because of his urge to move abroad people coming in. We are respected in the about it. Dance companies are like cultural Despite that fact, the group has been tour- and the gypsy blood running through his community but the numbers aren’t growing. ambassadors because they can travel the ing the world in recent years and earning a veins. He thought the fact that a small is- Today we can do only six or seven shows per world and represent a certain society. Dance good reputation, being described as an ener- land even has a dance company remarkable production,” he says. is something so many people are afraid to do getic, humourous, vivacious and sexy group enough to see it for himself, and hopefully “I think people are a little bit scared of but with each performance you see, you kind and a world-class company, by critics across join in the fun. dance here. The work doesn’t appeal to as of want to imagine yourself a part of it, you the globe. Its international recognition is They will both be important parts of many people as theatre does for example. It want to relate to the people on stage, you growing by the minute and with this year’s the February performance, consisting of can be frustrating being a dancer knowing can watch and imagine yourself being part schedule – the group is not only preparing two new and challenging pieces, created how popular theatre is. There are two large of the show and get excited about it.” for the February show, but is working on a by award-winning choreographers Roberto theatres and extra independent stuff. Why The duo is hopeful about bringing in big- dance-film project, a dance-theatre competi- Oliván from Spain and Canadian André Gin- does a bad play get 30 performances for ger audiences for the forthcoming shows tion and various workshops, not to mention gras, who is known for his radical and critical example and a good dance production only and promises some incredible dance moves scheduled tours to China, USA, France and creations where sensitive subjects are usually eight? That’s frustrating,” Brad adds. and tough acrobatics in a show bubbling The Netherlands – there’s no way to predict his prime inspiration. Cameron has his own theory: “I think the with freedom, emotion and explosions of how far the group can go in the international Gingras’s piece revolves around transfor- audience doesn’t know what to expect and energy. dance community. mation, from small insects to religious beliefs, find that not exciting maybe. Sometimes a When the company was established in with music created by Belgian musician/com- dance performance is just pretty pictures and Premiering in the Reykjavík City Theatre on WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS 1973 it used to consist of all women dancers. poser Jurgen DeBlonde. Roberto Oliván, who all sorts of emotions and that is just enough. February 23, the performances will be held Since then it has undergone certain changes is currently working with the dancers, has a You don’t have to get worried if you don’t every Sunday after that until March 25. For NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS and now includes seven male professional very different take on things. He gathers his understand everything that is going on. It’s tickets visit: www.id.is or call 568-8000. REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_FEATURE/ESPIONAGE_17 The Reykjavík Grapevine Readers’ Survey HALLDÓR LAXNESS Win incredibly warm AND THE CIA SWEATERS experience an arctic ADVENTURE and a daytrip outside REYKJAVÍK Text by Chay Lemoine Illustration by Sara Riel ...the Agency can neither confirm nor deny the exis- tence or nonexistence of records responsive to your PRIZES Two sweaters from Cintamani request... Daytrip for two with Arctic Rafting In 1946 Halldor Laxness’ epic novel Indepen- the book sold well to the surprise of the furnished to the Bureau promptly.” is minimal. I sent $10 to Hilary Clinton last dent People was published in America. The publishers and began appearing on lists of Paranoia gripped the FBI players as evi- year and I always encourage my students to Daytrip for two with Reykjavík Excursions publication and the success of the novel in the greatest novels of all time. Writers and dent in another memo to Hoover from the vote. I’m hardly a radical. the United States caused Laxness and Iceland academics were rejoicing the republication New York office of the FBI which states “It’s Although I had received much useful in- to become of interest to both the Federal Bu- of the novel. Halldor Laxness’ reputation not deemed advisable to direct a letter to the formation from the FBI after many requests reau of Investigation and the Central Intel- was becoming solidified. The reissuing of his Treasury Department for the above informa- and waiting close to a year, I still did not ligence Agency. Laxness was an unknown other novels previously translated soon fol- tion in view of the apparent discreetness of have all of the information. After receiving author writing about a country and a culture lowed. the investigation requested by the State De- the documents there were several pages that that to most Americans existed in the realm partment.” were sent “blank” and I had sent a request of the fantastic. Laxness did little to dispel The Red Scare American publishers were warned not to asking for the information on these blank that notion, depicting an archaic nation Of course the works of Halldor Laxness were publish works from Communist sympathiz- pages. struggling with a world that was changing, not lost. They were still published and read ers. Best selling American writer Howard Fast I was told by the caller that the remaining giving and taking away small crumbs of op- with great interest in Iceland and in Europe. was jailed for three months for his political three pages I requested were not forthcom- portunity. Why was Laxness not reissued in the United views, and pressure from the United States ing at this time but my request was currently The book became a best seller in the States after he had won the Nobel Prize for government forced Little Brown to cancel being taken under advisement. Yes the call United States selling 450 thousand copies. Literature? Certainly there would have been publication of his historical novel Spartacus. made me a bit nervous. I had published re- It was a main selection by the Book-of-the- at least minimal interest in the Icelandic writ- He was forced to publish it himself and it be- cently declassified documents in another Month club and mailed to thousands of er after winning the highest literary honour came a huge success and a movie based on country. I was the only Laxness researcher households around the country. Before the in the world. the book was also successful. currently with an interest in this topic and Tell us what you think advent of television, book clubs and reading The answer to that question is that Hall- I had some new information so of course I were a main source of entertainment in the dor Laxness was blacklisted in much the The Bureaucratic Run-around was going to publish. Answer honestly for a chance to win exciting prizes United States. American readers embraced same way that many American writers were I have previously written an article, published I waited a few months and placed a the often difficult and lyrical novel. There blacklisted for their political views. Much in Mannlíf in February, 2005, based on my call to the State Department official. I had was even speculation in an article in the New has been written about the blacklisting of research regarding Halldór Kiljan Laxness his number and since we are on first name York Times Book Review as early as August American writers and artists during the “Red and the FBI, explaining and detailing aspects terms I decided that I would try to find out The Reykjavík Grapevine readers’ survey at www.grapevine.is 1946 that Halldor Laxess was shortlisted for Scare” in the McCarthy era but little is writ- of the “Red Scare” and the firm grip J. Edgar the status of my request. He returned my call the Nobel Prize for Literature. ten about foreign writers whose works in Hoover had on all branches of government in and said that the office that handles these In 1955 the highest literary honour, the translation were not published or reissued the United States at this time. requests did not receive it. My request for Nobel Prize, was awarded to Halldor Kiljan because of pressure from the United States The day before the Mannlif article hit the the three missing pages was “lost”. He did Laxness. By then, Laxness was no longer a government. newsstands I received a call from the State say that he would make sure that it received favourite of the American reading public Two years ago I received information un- Department. The caller was civil and acted immediate attention. I waited a month and and out of print in the United States. In a der the Freedom of Information Act which as if this was common practice. The FBI gets made another call. There was some action front page article on October 28, 1955, The proved that J. Edgar Hoover and the Fed- thousands of Freedom of Information Act on my lost request. I was informed that the New York Times chronicled the award of the eral Bureau of Investigation had an interest requests every year and many of these re- files in question were not FBI files, but files Nobel Prize, focusing on Laxness’ past Com- in Laxness. Top secret memos to and from quests take years before the information is from another agency. That particular agency munist interest and steering away from his Hoover regarding the income derived from forthcoming. I have asked several individu- would make the determination if these files literary accomplishments. The article stated: the sale of Laxness’ book in the United States als who have requested information under were to be released. I asked when this would “informed sources said the Swedish Acad- show that Halldor Laxness was a person of the Freedom of Information Act and they happen and he said that was up to the other emy, some of whose members disapprove interest. There was great concern that the never received a phone call. A few had been agency. I asked which Federal agency had ju- of Mr. Laxness’ political views, decided to money gained from the sale of Independent waiting for over a year for an answer to their risdiction over the files, but I was not allowed award him the prize this year only because of People would fall into communist hands. In a written request. that information. the relaxation of East-West tension.” memo from the State Department, J. Edgar I hope you will permit a bit of paranoia on Once again I waited several weeks. I was American academic and writer Brad Hoover was asked to provide information re- my part. I had resisted publishing this article not surprised to receive nothing from the “al- Leithhauser helped to reintroduce Indepen- garding payments to Laxness from the Book- in view of the media’s reporting that there leged other agency” regarding the status of dent People to the American reading pubic of-the-Month-club: “Your office should en- was domestic spying taking place in the Unit- my request. I decided to move in several di- by personally taking an interest in the novel deavor to discreetly ascertain the amount of ed States. At this time in my career I do not rections. I sent a letter to the FBI requesting and lobbying a publisher to reissue it, result- money Laxness has received from the sale of feel it is in my best interest to make myself a the three pages that were missing from the Prizes are valid throughout the year ing in the book being reissued in January, his book in this country through the Book-of- “person of interest”. I am a literary research- documents. I also tried under the Freedom of 1997 by Vintage International. Once again the-Month-Club. This information should be er, teacher and writer. My interest in politics Information Act to find out the agency that 18_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_FEATURE/ESPIONAGE RVK_GV_02_2007_OPINION_19 WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS If David Letterman Only Knew… By Erik J. Davidek

that my digestive condition would require surgery. Today’s modern equipment al- lows surgeons to perform many procedures without the need to cut the patient open, and luckily my procedure could be done in this manner. Unfortunately the most convenient path through which the surgical equipment could enter my body was the place where things usually come out. I was getting the feeling that making it through this was going to take far more humour than I possessed, but I could give it a shot. The morning of my surgery, I had my wife pick up a black perma- nent marker on the way to the hos- David Letterman once said that pital. When we got into the prep Was the CIA in Iceland watching the movements of everyone should memorize three room, I asked the nurse which side funny stories about themselves and of my body I would be laying on be ready to tell them at any time. during the invasion. Right before Halldor Laxness? I cannot say for certain that was This is one of mine, and it is all true. they wheeled me in, I laid on the BERGSTAÐASTRÆTI 13 I wish to God it weren’t, but it is. gurney in the position that I would About two years ago I started assume during the procedure and - PHONE: 551 3083 the case. But I can say for certain that the CIA had having some digestive problems. had my wife write the famous line I’ll spare you all the messy de- from the opening of Star Trek, “To tails, but let’s just say that things boldly go where no man has gone an interest in the Icelandic people and had much weren’t flowing through the pipes before…,” on my butt cheeks with Oldest bakery in Iceland like they should have been. Like any the marker. If this didn’t make him to say about Iceland, Icelanders and their political real man, I ignored all the signs of laugh, nothing could. At least I fig- trouble, thinking that everything ured that it would be something would magically fix itself. I hoped that his proctologist buddies would since 1834 situation. that maybe it was just something get a good chuckle out of the next that would go away on its own, like time they played golf, or finger had jurisdiction of the documents I wasn’t The denial letter stated: “Exemptions (1) (b) applies to matters 23 January 1978, the CIA makes political ob- the Ebola virus. painted, or did whatever proctolo- receiving. “I note that your appeal is limited to con- that are in fact properly classified pursuant servations regarding security, the communist But of course it didn’t, which gists do in their spare time. Initially I thought the agency that had had cerns you have related to the FBI’s referral of to such Executive Order.” “Exemption (b) (3) threat and the economic status of the coun- meant a visit to the doctor. And I expected to experience a sig- the documents must be The Department of records to another agency. After carefully applies to matters that are specifically ex- try: not just any doctor – I needed to nificant level of discomfort from the Immigration. Today, that department has considering your appeal, I have decided to empted from disclosure by statute provided “The Communist Party is no longer a very see a proctologist. Our meeting surgery, but when the drugs wore been renamed as The Department of Home- affirm the FBI’s action on your request. The that such statute establishes particular cri- important factor in Icelandic politics; it can was destined to happen for the off I felt like I had just calved a baby land Security. I would comment on the name FBI referred eleven pages that originated teria for withholding or refers to particular neither make nor unmake a government. De- dreaded prostate exam that every elephant. There was a birthday change but I don’t want another phone call. with another government agency for pro- type of matters to be withheld”. spite their lack of direct political influence, man must eventually endure, but I party happening in my rear and my I had spent hours going over every inch of cessing and direct response to you.” The files are classified and the type of the Communist can still arouse and solidify a wasn’t supposed to receive my first anus was the piñata. I was curled the FBI files for any information that was not Hold on! I was originally told there were classification stated means they do not come fairly strong segment of public opinion, and good probing until I was 40. I had up in the foetal position in one of obvious on the first reading. I did find in the three pages denied. On the phone the State under the umbrella of the Freedom of Infor- create doubts as to the wisdom of govern- expected about ten more years to those horrible hospital gowns with corner of one of the documents Laxness’ De- Department had mentioned nine pages. mation Act. I firmly believe that the CIA has ment policy on certain issues. prepare. the split down the back, exposing partment of Immigration file number. One of Now in this denial I was being told there classified files not only on Halldor Laxness “Icelanders are opposed to the estab- The only way that I knew how my abused underside for the world Ekki the ploys of the Freedom of Information Act were eleven pages. but on the CIA’s presence in Iceland during lishment of foreign military bases on their to deal with the discomfort that to see. All I could do was lay there is to send you a form letter saying that they the late 40s. The withholding of information island in time of peace, but would probably awaited me at the doctor’s office sucking my thumb and moaning. “can neither confirm no deny the existence The Department of Homeland may be more about cold war espionage than be willing to receive NATO forces if war or was with humour. As the doc- My wife saw that I was awake of the files”. Before you can gain access to Security surveillance of Halldor Laxness. the threat of war made Iceland’s involvement tor asked me questions about my and that I was completely incapaci- vEra súr the files first there has to be an admission My request to The Department of Homeland I had always found it odd that J. Edgar’s seem imminent. condition and my general health, I tated, so she came over to spread that the files actually exist. That admission Security went much smoother. The fact that Hoover’s interest in Laxness seemed to end “Solely because of its strategic location, peppered him with one-liners. a blanket on my shaking body. As happens when you receive the files in a large I had Laxness’ Department of Immigration in September/October 1947. There are a Iceland has been drawn into the current of “Well, at least it looks like you she brought the blanket around my Eru tennurnar í sýrubaði oft á dag? brown envelope and not before. The Depart- file number cut down the number of let- few insignificant pages regarding Laxness’ world affairs, albeit unwillingly and hesitant- have very soft hands...” violated backside, she stopped and Sýran í sykruðum og sykurlausum gos- ment of Immigration could not deny that the ters where they would “neither confirm nor visit to the United States in 1957. Except for ly. Icelanders desire only to be left alone, but “I usually have to buy someone started laughing hysterically. Based drykkjum getur eytt glerungi tannanna – files were in existence so I saved them some deny the existence of the file”. July 8th 2005 a telegram in 1948 sent to the Secretary of it is as clear to them as to others that their flowers and dinner for this kind of on the way I was feeling, I thought og hann kemur aldrei aftur. Það er ekki postage. I received a big brown envelope and a letter State by the American Legation (Embassy) in island will not be left alone in war; perhaps action...” that the view might be more scary bara súrt heldur líka sárt.

Because of the encouragement of a few stating that “We have completed the review Iceland the FBI seems to have forgotten that not even in peace. “Have you ever been in pris- than amusing, so I asked her gruff- 8AA8@@"FÜ4"A@%(%#' who had an interest in my work I sent a re- of all documents responsive to your request Halldor Laxness was a person of interest. If “A Communist decision to seize control on?” ly what in the hell could be so hi- Drekktu vatn – líka kolsýrt vatn! quest to the Central Intelligence Agency and have identified 8 pages that are respon- this particular individual was a threat to na- of the island could be implemented with as He didn’t laugh, and for some rea- larious. All she could say was, “He (CIA). I reasoned that with the current politi- sive to your request” All but two of the pag- tional security why was there not a follow up few as 500 organized armed men. Although son that bothered me even more wrote you back.” cal climate, the CIA was not going to send es were totally blank. “We are withholding on his alleged subversive activities? the Communist Party has been capable over than having most of a stranger’s I struggled to my feet and made me any files even if the documents did exist. 6 pages in full”. One of the pages that I was The answer as to why the FBI seemed to a considerable period of seizing power by hand in my large intestine. His hunt my way over to the mirror in the I was right but I did uncover some interesting allowed to access was not legible. The other lose interest according to the FBI documents force of arms it’s unlikely that the Commu- for the cause of my condition took bathroom. Twisting to see my ass information which makes me believe that the page was one that I had in my FBI docu- in my possession may lie in the fact that un- nist would attempt a coup without prior about ten minutes, with a prostate in the mirror, I pulled back the blue CIA may very well be the agency that has the ments. There was a notation that was not on der the provisions of the National Security assurance of Soviet support, without which check thrown in for good mea- hospital robe and saw new letter- missing documents. my FBI copy. Hand written in fairly large print Act of 1947 the Central Intelligence Agency they could not consolidate or maintain their sure. ing written in blue marker. was the word “Subversive Library Index”. I was established on September 18, 1947. It position except for a relatively short period.” “Since we’re in there anyway,” It read, “Been there, done that.” FBI Appeal have subsequently tried to get a copy of this was the Central Intelligence Agency’s task to There are nine pages of observations that as he put it. I guess he had the last laugh. After waiting several months for a reply to index but that request was denied and the coordinate all international intelligence activ- certainly could not have been made with- The good news was that my my FBI request for the three missing docu- FBI will neither confirm nor deny if it exists. ities. We know from the 1948 telegram that out a CIA presence in Iceland. If there was a prostate felt wonderful (at least ments I received a denial October 9th. The the American Legation (Embassy) in Iceland CIA presence in Iceland and the FBI was very from his end). The bad news was post mark on the envelope was October 3rd. Central Intelligence Agency was reporting on Laxness’ movement. What concerned just a year before about Iceland’s The denial letter was written August 17th. I was of the opinion that asking for docu- is of note about the telegram sent in 1948 is most famous citizen it would not take a leap You have 60 days to file an appeal from the ments from the CIA would be a complete that it was a top secret aerogram notifying of imagination to infer that the CIA was ob- date of the denial letter. Mailing this letter waste of time. Still there are those who had the Secretary of State of the United States serving Halldor Laxness. The CIA has sent me almost two months after it was written was followed my research and suggested that I that Halldor Laxness had left Iceland for the a form letter saying they can “neither con- a good way to ensure that I would have little follow up with a request for any documents winter, was visiting France and was believed firm nor deny” the existence of CIA files on or no time to file an appeal. With each denial that the CIA should have in its possession. In to be in Italy at this time. Halldor Laxness. I will not speculate on what comes a letter explaining the appeal process. a matter of several months I was both denied Was the CIA in Iceland watching the is in those files but I will speculate that they The process on how to appeal this particular the documents and the appeals. The letter movements of Halldor Laxness? I cannot do exist. denial did not accompany the letter. I had less states: say for certain that was the case. But I can than a week to appeal and I had no informa- “The Agency Release Panel has consid- say for certain that the CIA had an interest Chay Lemoine is a Laxness scholar in the tion on how to appeal this particular denial. ered your appeal and has determined that the in the Icelandic people and had much to say United States. [email protected] I wrote a sarcastic letter and in a couple of Agency can neither confirm nor deny the ex- about Iceland, Icelanders and their political weeks received instructions on how to ap- istence or nonexistence of records responsive situation. In a 9 page classified CIA docu- WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS peal. I filed an appeal and it was of course to your request on the basis of the Freedom of ment called “Current Situation in Iceland” denied. Information Act exemptions (b)(1) and (b)(3). published 18 October 1949 and declassified NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS 20_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_REVIEWS/MUSIC/LIVE REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_REVIEWS/MUSIC/CDS_21

And so, my face turned to the stage, I was entranced. Booka Shade somehow managed to procure music that appealed at once to my booty and my brain, bringing to mind some exotic blend of the finest pop I’ve heard to- gether with the heaviest metal. I was lost in music, as were my compatriots out on the dance floor. I thought some thoughts: “Why would the crowd in a dance-music event be facing the stage? Shouldn’t they be grinding against one another? Or dancing? Why are the girls here prettier than at rock shows? Why do the audience participate more than at regular concerts, instead of bouts of head nodding and foot-tapping?” Skúli Sverrisson Forgotten Lores Jónas Sigurðsson And it slowly dawned on me that those Sería Frá heimsenda Þar sem malbikið svífur mun ég dansa questions were all wrong. For what I was witnessing was no techno dance spectacle, I Skúli Sverrisson is a world renowned bass player. Over here 15 tracks of Icelandic rap. Forgotten Lores arrive with a much Jónas Sigurðsson has been making music for a long time. He was witnessing a rock show. And this is why he’s probably best known for his work with the New York anticipated follow up to their debut, Týndi hlekkurinn. Their was a drummer in Trassarnir and the singer in Sólstrandargæ- most of the crowd, especially those who had group Blonde Redhead. It is mostly an instrumental album, live shows are always fun. At the recent Airwaves festival jarnir. Ask any Icelander no older than 40 to sing “Rangur been exposed to the band’s songs during except for 3 tracks where Ólöf Arnalds sings. This is a tough their performance was one of the highlights. Rap is about maður” by the Sólstrandargæjar and you will be treated to visits to non-musically segregated clubs like album to describe. It is melancholic, sad and beautiful. It’s words and Forgotten Lores include Iceland’s best rappers. a fine example of music that everyone knows and likes but Kaffifbarinn, loved it, while techno purists not an aggressive album, it is subtle and low-key without Their flow and rhymes are really, really good. The beats and pretends to dislike. This debut album is not at all like that. It were intrigued and, in some cases, put off. fading to the background as sometimes occurs. It is obviously music fall into the same category. It is so rewarding to hear is very personal and its Icelandic lyrics are better than aver- See, Booka Shade’s show is highly the work of very skilled people – it sounds professional. It the innovative ways these guys use language. Icelandic hip- age. The music is also much better than average. It’s easy- marked by… showmanship. Something that has great Quality with a capital Q. The various musicians are hop is not heard very often, so I had high hopes for this al- listening pop with meaning. Jónas writes good songs but the seems to be sneaking through the back door all known for excellent work, but it’s Skúli’s bass, guitar and bum, wanting to hear a solid and good rap record. I was not arrangements make this album excellent. It’s innovative and of dance music once again, after The Prodigy dobro playing that form the backbone of each track. It is a disappointed. It is full of ideas, fun and excellence. Makes me quirky and really needs to be heard to be understood. Jónas all but killed it with their silly haircuts and mature piece of music that is very pleasing to the ears. want to rap. Music that does that to you is great. is obviously a talented musician. A very fine album. sub-par albums. One of techno’s trademarks for a long time has been relative anonymity for its artists. They will release countless al- bums under countless monikers, slowly mak- ing names for themselves within small circles of informed hipsters. It is pointedly anti-ce- lebrity. Those Crazy Kids, What Will They Think of Next? So what am I to make of the two deut- schmen standing on stage before me? One of them is playing ‘E-drums’, triggering sam- Text by Haukur S. Magnússon Photo by Skari ples by hitting plastic shields. The other is singing into a microphone. No audible lyr- ics, but he’s still singing. It’s actually pretty site of a show by recently revered techno- the masses, as was made abundantly clear as corny. And their melodies are reminiscent of Who: Booka Shade hipsters Booka Shade, that he could “hardly the night progressed. The Cure. So this is a hybrid of sorts, and Where: Gaukurinn spot any drugs on anyone.” I had just as- As I entered Gaukurinn, a crowd pulsat- this is why they seem to be reaching out to When: January 19, 2007 sumed otherwise, going by what I thought I ed. It cheered as it flung its arms into the a greater audience. And this is why the pur- knew. air. Some lights blinked, and blinked. All this ists were confused, while those out of vogue No matter what anyone tells you, the 101 See, I am naïve. I am from the country- commotion was in order to prove that said loved it. Reykjavík nightlife scene is druggy, and it is a side, and I have no idea how to tell if anyone crowd was in fact “ready for Booka Shade!” Booka Shade’s command of their audi- cousin of both tears and regrets. People who is sorted for E’s and whizz. Where I come as had been repeatedly asked by a blonde ence was all but revelatory. Although for- frequent clubs and bars during the weekend from, we stick to beer and glue-sniffing. Add woman standing on a stage more accus- ward-facing, and noticeably drug free, they are most likely found in the city’s movie thea- to that the fact that I decided on reviewing tomed to hosting shitty Icelandic pop-rock managed to shake them like no rock band Canora Shadow Parade Björgvin Halldórsson tres on Sunday nights, as those give a great the Booka Shade show in question out of cu- outfits than Teutonic techno giants. After I’ve ever seen (with the exception of Black Kelvinator Dubious Intentions Björgvin ásamt Sinfóníuhljómsveit... excuse to not talk at all for two hours or so. riosity; because I hadn’t really attended such untold hours of well-received warm-ups Sabbath feat, Ronnie James Dio and my Preferably more. an event up until then and thought it would from popular local artists such as FM Belfast, mom, in ’92). Their big hits, Mandarine Girl Metal can be great. We all know that. Almost any kind of Melancholic and dark. Shadow Parade follows bands like This is a live CD, accompanied by a DVD, recorded in Sep- What we have here is a city filled with provide ample opportunity to acquaint my- Hairdoctor and Jack Schidt, Booka Shade’s and Body Language, set the room afire and metal is great, with the exception of black-metal, which is Coldplay or Radiohead. In fact, the singer’s voice is almost a tember 2006 at Laugardalshöll. Björgvin has been one of the unhappy, traffic-jammed, annoyed folk, that self with Reykjavík’s dance music culture, appearance was finally imminent. even got my chubby legs shakin’. And it was not great. It is bad. The cover of Canora’s first album hinted carbon-copy of Thom Yorke on some tracks. This isn’t neces- nation’s most popular performers for decades, graduating magically transform into party-hat wearing, and dance music in general. How can you I was drawn from where I stood at the a notably sweaty, happy crowd that left at black-metal. Therefore I was moderately pleased when Kel- sarily bad and in this case it isn’t... most of the time. This is from sexy teenage idol to seasoned, pudgey crooner. This breast-flashing Vikings come Friday night. tell, I asked, and he answered that he usually short-stocked bar, conversing with some Gaukurinn that Friday night. vinator turned out to be a good metal album with no songs a fine album. It is well played, haunting and eerie. It is radio concert was a big one. The booklet states that 300 people And these are chemicals at work, the peo- just could. “You learn to notice. Tonight is rocker types whom I hadn’t expected meet- In conclusion, Booka Shade are more like about church burnings or members named Gormarsloth or friendly. It sounds international. It has the potential to be very took part in organizing it but the biggest part is played by ple and the alcohol and the nicotine (I don’t marked by a notable absence of some of the ing here, by a pulsating melody I couldn’t a rock or pop act than a techno one. This is the like. At times Canora sounds like classic nu-metal, at popular, possibly all over the world. And it would be great Björgvin, singing some twenty songs, sometimes solo and have a valid source for this, but it is often drug crowd that I’m used to seeing at these recognise but made for a sort of siren song why I really enjoyed myself. I like rock, and I times heavy-rock and at times like metal influenced pop. It is if only Radiohead wasn’t looming in the background like a sometimes with others. His son Krummi, of rock band Mínus, suggested that Iceland has the highest ratio happenings.” through my g&t induced haze. In an interview like pop, and I know how to read those gen- melodic and interesting. The lyrics, which are in English, are white elephant. But sometimes Shadow Parade makes you sings with him and his daughter Svala who is in Steed Lord. of weekend-only smokers in the world). What he was perhaps insinuating was with Polish web-zine Juju, Booka Shade’s res. The fact also made this less of a learning very metal which is fitting but won’t win any awards. Basi- forget and then it really clicks. Then it’s simply good song Björgvin proves that he’s popular and if you like him then So, this is not a clean-living, healthy city, that Booka Shade, surprise techno superstars Arno Kammermeier cited British new-wave experience for me than I had thought. It was cally it boils down to this: Kelvinator is a solid metal album writing and playing. But then Mr. Yorke steps back into the this is excellent stuff. It is big and bold and a little bit tacky. and its inhabitants are anything but bal- and the night’s headliners, were appealing and electronic music from the eighties as kinda like Sebadoh at GrandRokk in 2003, – the kind boys will like but girls won’t but all should. Why room and I don’t like having him around. Shadow Parade The symphony orchestra is excellent and the arrangements anced. And this isn’t necessarily a bad thing. to a much wider crowd than these dance- a prime inspiration. The Smiths, Tears for in a way. Some things I did learn, however, it’s named after a refrigerator is a puzzle. have made a good, but not so original, album. fit most of the time. Check this out if you dream of going to It makes for some decent nights out, as vapid offs usually do. And that seemed obvious to Fears, Soft Cell. “That’s probably where our were that you can supposedly tell if some- Vegas to see Frank Sinatra but would settle for an Icelandic vacantness and desperation are bound to me upon further inspection. Among those love for melancholic melodies comes from.” one’s on E if they’re dancing with arms inter- singer backed by a symphony orchestra in a sweaty sports breed decadence; what those out after the present was an unusually high (I’m told) And that may explain some of their appeal locked, speed or coke if their jaws are grind- hall. hours of 1am on a Saturday are surely look- percentage of people rarely seen outside to rock audiences weaned on the legendary ing, and just plain drunk if they’re stupidly ing for. So I was surprised when told by a of Reykjavík’s rock clubs. People wearing club ‘22’, where those bands were played dancing, facing the stage. That’s what I did. veteran of the 101 dance music scene, at the Motörhead T-shirts. This is clearly techno for non-stop, and the people did indeed dance. All reviews by Páll Hilmarsson

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Reviewed by Ian Watson

These five intriguing books are all either wholly or partly Inside Reykjavík is not precisely a guidebook to Reykja- and Húsavík). While not a work of genius, the book that about Iceland and all have come out over the past year or so. vík, as it’s way more sophisticated and doesn’t cover hotels, resulted is short and easy to read, Sally Magnusson comes All are available on loan from Reykjavík’s libraries, or can be transport or sightseeing. It’s more of a companion to the across as a friendly sort of person, and if you have a maiden ordered online or from Bóksala stúdenta. city. It lists restaurants and clubs, but not their hours or pric- great-aunt (especially in Britain) who has never been to Ice- es. It covers daily life, swimming pools, cafes, food, going land but would like to read something about it, this might be out, shopping, music and art, and daytrips. There are more the gift for her. And I gotta say one really good thing about than thirty superb candid photos, selected by Guðmundur this book: Sally got herself a damn fine proofreader. All the Freyr Vigfússon. (I recognised a few people I know; so might Icelandic is spelled absolutely right. There are no Sigridurs or The Bell of Iceland An excerpt you.) Porbjorgs in this book. Bart means to be tongue-in-cheek when he says that the The Magnussons are not your average Icelandic family. book is “doing a commendable and historical sociological Though born in Iceland, Magnus Magnusson grew up in By Halldór Kiljan Laxness Translated by Keneva Kunz service in documenting the phenomenon that is Reykjavík Scotland where his father was the head of the SÍS export of- today,” but in fact this is just what the book does. And it’s fice in Edinburgh and later the Icelandic consul there. These cutting edge. It’s ahead of the curve. As Bart himself might are fine folk. They take a taxi from Keflavík to Reykjavík and Chapter One It’s not something you mock and jest about, lads, said the cry, put it, the book voices “key thoughts” about Iceland that their cousin built Hótel Borg. Sally and her dad are familiar There was a time, the story goes, when the Icelandic nation the elderly man upon hearing this. The bell is an old one. A bone seldom breaks when it’s got no backing, man, The Ice Museum: many people think but are “unable to state.” It’s one of the to millions of British television viewers and they get the red- possessed but one thing of value. A bell. This bell hung from If you’re from the minister’s farm then you can tell him as Axlar-Björn said when they were breaking his. In Search of the Lost best things to come out in English on Iceland since Amalia carpet treatment from everyone they meet. So this is kind of one gable-end of the Law Council house on the plains of this from me, said the king’s executioner, that there’s no When the king’s executioner had turned the bell so that Líndal’s Ripples from Iceland. a celebrity confessional book, and one which will mean most Thingvellir on the Öxará river, suspended from the roof beam point in him whining or protesting. We have a letter calling he could strike it on the inside, with the flagstone for support Land of Thule Bart bursts tourist clichés. He shows you how to think be- to those who know Sally and Magnus from TV. It’s also a where it had been secured. It tolled the judgements of the for eighteen bells with this one the nineteenth. They’re to be from the back, it split apart along the crack. The elderly man By Joanna Kavenna. yond weather, volcanoes, and the old story about Iceland and book about family history (someone else’s, of course), as well Council and was a signal for executions. The bell was so old broken and shipped out on the penal ship. I’ve no man to had sat down on the remains of the wall again. He stared Greenland being misnamed. He explains why you shouldn’t as an example of a rare genre: Icelandic diaspora literature. that no one knew its age for certain any longer. But by the answer to but the king. into the distance, his head gently swaying and his sinewy The Ice Museum is a kind of travelogue about north European discuss elves, Vikings, or geology with Icelanders. He in- Sally, to her credit, is smart, and not a snob, and tries to ask time this story begins, the bell had long since developed a He took a good pinch of snuff from his tobacco horn hands grasping his stick tightly. regions, with chapters on Oslo, Shetland, Iceland, northern cludes Sólheimajökull, Hafnarfjörður, and EVE Online in the critical questions about her Icelandic heritage and her fam- crack and the oldest men seemed to recall that it had once without bothering to offer it to his companion. The executioner had another shot of snuff. The bottoms Norway, Estonia, northwest Greenland, and Svalbard, loosely daytrip section. He reviews swimming pools and fast food, ily’s myths, though she doesn’t have room to go into much rung with a clearer tone. All the same, the old men had a God bless the king, said the old man. The king now of Jón Hreggviðsson’s feet could be seen as he perched up tied together by the puzzle of trying to identify the place and dares to discuss cod worms. Actually, I found the fish depth. great affection for this bell. In the presence of the magis- owns all these church bells that the pope once owned. But on the roof. that the ancient explorer Pytheas called Thule. Kavenna also section a bit weak, but the other 99% of the book convinces trate, a lawyer, an executioner and a man who was to be this is no church bell. It’s the nation’s own bell. I was born D’you plan on riding that roof top all day, or what? reports on a visit to Munich where she tries to understand me of the merits of guidebooks written by people who really beheaded or a woman to be drowned, the sound of the bell here on the heathlands of Bláskógar. called the executioner to the thief. the Nazi fascination with the north. know a town, not scribblers who fly in one week and fly out could often be heard, accompanied by the din of the wa- Got any snuff? the swarthy one asked. The king’s bloody To this Jón Hreggviðsson responded from the rooftop of I found Kavenna’s web site on the Internet, and saw that the next. For travel guidebook junkies: Inside Reykjavík has terfall in Öxará, the breeze slipping down from the nearby executioner can’t even spare a man a pinch of snuff. the Law Council building she has also written some fine travel journalism and a novel. similarities to A User’s Guide to Tallinn, put out by students mountains Súlur, and the smell of the birch shrubs in the No, the elderly man said, in my family we’ve never had But this book, unfortunately, offers little to those who know at the Estonian Art Academy several years ago, but it is more groves of Bláskógar. snuff nor the price of it. These are hard times, two of my Never shall these strapping arms entwine the north already. The search for Thule is too thin a concept practical and less fartsy. Until the year came when the proclamation was borne grandchildren died around midsummer. I’m an old man my- A maiden, nor on her sweet couch recline, to sustain a book, as she half admits. Nor is The Ice Museum The best thing about this book: This guy Bart Cameron out to Iceland, that the king’s subjects were to surrender all self. That bell there has always belonged to the nation. Nor on her sweet couch recline a fully satisfying travel book. Kavenna’s love of commas and can write. There’s one great sentence after the next. And the copper and brass they possessed, for the purposes of And who’s got a letter to prove it? said the execution- Lest she be plump and rich and kind. run-on sentences makes her prose sputter and cough, and he’s never boring. Some of the listings will be out of date reconstructing Copenhagen after the war, and men were er. her insights into this jumble of eight very different places soon, but this book will always be a monument to Reykjavík sent off to fetch the ancient bell from the plains of Thingvellir My father was born here on the Bláskógar heath, said They gathered up the pieces of the bell in a large sack are necessarily shallow. Her Iceland write-up rehashes earlier in 2006. on the river Öxará. the old man. which they then lifted up onto the pack saddle on the op- journeys by Burton, Auden, and MacNeice, and she wastes Only a few days after the Council had adjourned, two No one has the right to anything unless he’s a letter to posite side of the sledge hammer and axe and then mounted three pages ranting about the Volcano Show in Reykjavík, to The English Dane men rode up trailing pack horses along the path following prove it, said the king’s executioner. the horses. The swarthy one drew the pack horses after him. which she took a peculiarly strong dislike. By Sarah Bakewell the western shores of the lake and descending the steep can- I believe it says somewhere, said the elderly one, that The fair-haired one rode at the head of the train as suited his Kavenna lives in London, in an apartment overlooking an yon path to cross the river at the shallows of its delta. There when the first settlers sailed here from the east to land in position. expressway, and what she is really chasing is an elusive, half- On 25 June 1809, the Danish governor of Iceland, Frederik they dismounted at the edge of the lava fields near the Law this empty country they found this bell in a cave along the Farewell then, you old Bláskógar devil, he said. Give the real landscape of open space and broad ice fields, not the Trampe, was arrested in his home on Aðalstræti in Reykjavík, Council building. One of them was pale and fair-haired, with seaside, together with a cross which has since been lost. my regards to the minister along with those of the Lord and human reality of the countries that she visits. Over and over marched under armed guard to the harbour, and imprisoned small, close-set eyes. He walked with his elbows protruding My letter’s from the king, I tell you, said the executioner. you can tell him that this was the work of his Majesty’s own she uses phrases like “northern dreamworld,” “silence of the on the British ship Margaret & Anne. The next day Iceland out from his sides in a child’s imitation of a gentleman, wear­ So get yourself up on that roof Jón Hreggviðsson, sneak thief administerer and representative Sigurður Snorrason. plains,” and “purity as a plain white space,” and she admits was proclaimed free and independent of Denmark, and Jør- ing a now shabby coat several sizes too small for him which that you are. Jón Hreggviðsson chanted: to an “anti-social impulse.” Recalling part of a winter spent gen Jørgensen, a Dane who had lived for some years in Eng- had once clothed an aristocrat; the other was a swarthy and This bell mustn’t be broken, said the old man, who had living near Trondheim, Kavenna says that “everyone was land, was appointed acting governor. Chapters four and five ugly pauper. risen to his feet. Or sent abroad on the penal ship. It has been On we march young squires straining, quiet and friendly in this snow world [and] they waved from The Killer’s Guide of The English Dane, a fine biography of Jørgen Jørgensen, An old man and his dog making their way from the lava part of the meeting of the Althing at the river Öxará ever Gallant lords and ladies uncomplaining a distance” – a compelling image if you are squeezed into tell the story of his brief “reign” as protector of Iceland in field cross the path of the horsemen. since it began - long before the days of the king; some say Gallant lords and ladies uncomplaining a sweaty subway train in London, but one which turns the to Iceland 1809. And who might the two of you be? even before the days of the pope. Gallant lords and ladies uncomplaining, people who live in the snow world into stick figures. There By Bane Radcliffe. I had only a vague knowledge of the story, and had been The fat man answers: The administerer and representa- It’s all the same to me, said the king’s executioner. Co- With iron bits their stallions scarce restraining. are few insightful character sketches in the book, she seems under the mistaken impression that Jørgensen was some tive of His Royal Majesty’s justice I am. penhagen’s got to be rebuilt. There’s been a war and the ill at ease with people, she spends a lot of time in bars, and The main character in this novel is a Scottish dot-com entre- kind of deranged sailor who acted alone in proclaiming him- Isn’t that so, mumbled the old man, his voice hoarse as Swedes, who do the devil’s own dirty work for him, a nation The train of horses left the same way as it had come, many of the interactions she reports on are anonymous. In preneur who sells his company and moves to Iceland to live self sovereign of an unprotected Iceland. In fact, there was if it had come a long way. of blackguards if ever there was one, have blasted the town crossing the ford of the Öxará river, climbing the steep path Iceland, the only person with whom she reports a conversa- with an Icelandic geologist he meets by chance in Glasgow. a whole group of adventurers involved, Jørgensen was not I’ve a letter to prove it said the king’s representative. apart. through the canyon across from the river delta and heading tion is a poet she meets briefly in a pub who claims to write She doesn’t know that he is still haunted by memories of his even necessarily the ringleader, and no less prominent a fig- I’d expect as much, said the old man. There’ve been so My grandfather’s farm was at Fíflavellir, farther up on southward along the west shore of the lake over the heath in the tradition of the sagas. former girlfriend and business partner. But she too turns out ure than Sir Joseph Banks was in on the plan. The episode many letters. And many a letter yet to come. the heath, said the old man as if he were beginning a lengthy of Mosfellsheiði. How much better a book this might have been if Kaven- to have a more interesting past than he bargained for. De- had not only to do with the power vacuum in Iceland after Are you accusing me of lying, you old devil, the king’s tale. He got no further, though. na had been able to make readers genuinely feel the paradox spite its implausible plot, stereotyped characters, sometimes the Danish military was disabled in 1807, but also with British representative asked. of human settlement in the far north: lives lived out every clumsy dialogue, and misspelled Icelandic, why did I actually interests in breaking the Danish trade monopoly in Iceland. At this the old man ventured no closer to the horsemen Never did the comely king a penchant find About the Author day on the brink of habitability, the fragility of supply and enjoy reading The Killer’s Guide and not want my time back? Jørgensen lived an eventful life. He was born in Copen- but sat down instead on the remains of the stone wall en- About a wench his strapping arms to wind Halldór Kiljan Laxness was born in 1902 in Reykjavik, the cap- communication, the coexistence of beauty and danger, and I think it was because of the pleasure of seeing the Reykjavík hagen in 1780, into a well-connected Danish watchmaking circling the Law Council building to watch them. There was About a wench his strapping arms to wind ital of Iceland, but spent his youth in the country. From the the small scale of social institutions. Her Greenland chapter I know on the pages of a cheesy British novel. Radcliffe did family. He had already sailed around the world on British nothing to distinguish him from other old men, a grey beard, age of seventeen on, he travelled and lived abroad, chiefly comes closest to managing this, and also has the most inter- his homework and much of the description of Iceland reads ships before his Icelandic caper. Afterwards, he spent several red eyes, woollen cap, twisted legs, bluish knuckles clenched The thief Jón Hreggviðsson straddled the peak of the on the European continent. He was influenced by expres- esting cast of characters. But for the most part, I found The quite true to life. And, having been once new in Iceland my- unhappy years in Britain, ending in bankruptcy, a theft con- around the walking stick upon which he leaned forward, his roof with his feet dangling from the gable end and chanted sionism and other modern currents in Germany and France. Ice Museum hard going. self, it feels a bit flattering to see the experience of newly viction for pawning his landlady’s mattress, and ultimately, in head swaying slightly back and forth. The dog continued the Older Ballad of Pontus. The bell hung from a thick rope In the mid-twenties he was converted to Catholicism; his arrived foreigners here given book-length treatment. Still, I 1826, transport as a convict to Tasmania. There he worked over the fence to sniff the travellers without giving voice, as wound about the end of the beam and with an axe he cut spiritual experiences are reflected in several books of an au- wish I had a hundred crowns per “Heimæy,” “Bírna” and as a police constable, what we would now call a freelance is the way with sly and vicious dogs. through the rope and the bell fell on the flagstones before tobiographical nature, chiefly Undir Helgahnúk (Under the every other misspelled word in the book, and anyone who journalist, and as a hired explorer, mapping trails through the In the days of old there were no letters, the old man the door of the building. Holy Mountain), 1924. In 1927, he published his first impor- actually lives here will find some of the story details a bit too wilderness of western Tasmania. mumbled to himself. tant novel, Vefarinn mikli frá Kasmir (The Great Weaver from much to swallow. Jørgensen is a troubled figure, swinging between debt, At that the swarthy one, the pale one’s companion, About a wench his strapping arms to wind Kashmir). Laxness’s religious period did not last long; during depression, drink, and gambling on the one hand and great called out, Right you are, friend. The hero Gunnar of Hlíðar- Be she not young and rich and kind. a visit to America he became attracted to socialism. Althy- energy, generosity, organisational skill, and prolific writing endi never had a letter. dubókin (The Book of the People), 1929, is evidence of a on the other. He had a talent for messing up his life, and Who are you? asked the elderly man. and by now his Majesty the Crown Prince will have taken change toward a socialist outlook. In 1930, Laxness settled in sometimes my stomach churned with embarrassment at the He’s nothing but a rope thief from Akranes who has himself a third mistress, he added from the roof beam, as Iceland. Laxness’s main achievement consists of three novel scrapes he got himself into. There are many high points, such been lying in the Slaves’ Hold at the Governor’s residence at if he were telling the old man the latest news, and eyed the cycles written during the thirties, dealing with the people of as the banquet he attended on Viðey island on 27 June 1809, Bessastaðir since Easter, answered the king’s representative blade of the axe: by all accounts she’s said to be the fattest Iceland. Þú vínviður hreini, 1931, and Fuglinn í fjörunni, 1932, Inside Reykjavík: and many low points, not least his narrow escape from a aiming a brutal kick at the dog. of them all. A great improvement on Siggi Snorrason here, (both translated as Salka Valka), tell the story of a poor fisher death sentence. At this the dark one spoke with a grin that showed more I expect. girl; Sjálfstættfolk (Independent People), 1934-35, treats the The Grapevine Guide The book is meticulously researched and referenced, but than one white tooth, And he’s the king’s executioner from The old man said nothing in answer. fortunes of small farmers, whereas the tetralogy Ljós heim- By Bart Cameron all the footnotes are kept out of the text and the narrative Bessastaðir. All the dogs pee on him. You’ll pay dear for those words, Jón Hreggviðsson, said sins (The Light of the World), 1937-40, has as its hero an Dreaming of Iceland: is pretty lively and fast-moving. A few sections may go into The elderly man sitting on what was left of the wall said the executioner. Icelandic folk poet. Laxness’s later works are frequently his- Yes, I have a conflict of interest in reviewing this book, as I The Lure of a Family a bit too much detail for the casual reader, but overall this nothing, nor did his expression reveal anything as he contin- Gunnar of Hlíðarendi wouldn’t have fled far at the torical and influenced by the saga tradition: Islandsklukkan have done work for the author, and the Grapevine holds the book, which is also available in an Icelandic translation, gets ued to watch them, one eye blinking slightly while his head threats of a pale-faced fatty from Álftanes the likes of you, (The Bell of Iceland), 1943-46, Gerpla (The Happy Warriors), copyright, and some of its material originally appeared here Legend my thumbs up. swayed to and fro. replied Jón Hreggviðsson. 1952, and Paradísarheimt (Paradise Reclaimed), 1960. Lax- in this magazine. But hey, I’m not on this newspaper’s staff, By Sally Magnusson Now, Jón Hreggviðsson, you wretch, climb up on the The fair-haired representative of the king took a sledge ness is also the author of the topical and sharply polemical and nobody else on the island seems to have reviewed this roof of the building, said the king’s executioner, and cut the hammer from his pack, placed the ancient bell of Iceland on Atómstödin (The Atom Station), 1948. truly unusual book. Someone had to do it, and because I Scottish television anchor Sally Magnusson asked her father, rope holding the bell. It tickles my fancy to think that the the flagstones in front of the Law Council building, raised his From Nobel Lectures, Literature 1901-1967, Editor Horst have slogged away in the travel guidebook industry for near- the Icelandic-Scottish translator and television personality day His Majesty has proclaimed that I should put the rope hammer high and struck. The bell, however, slid to one side Frenz, Elsevier Publishing Company, Amsterdam, 1969 ly 20 years and am supposed to have developed some kind Magnus Magnusson, to go with her on a trip to Iceland to around your neck here on this site there won’t even be a bell and the blow glanced off with only a muted warning sound. of perspective on it, I gave myself the job. visit the places his family came from (mostly around Akureyri to ring. From Jón Hreggviðsson seated astride the roof beam came 24_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_MISCELLANEOUS REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_INTERVIEW/MUSIC_25

in the Nordic countries to be able to sing in Swedish. But when I am playing somewhere Should You Be Eating This? else, then I think it is cool to be able to sing in English so other people can understand as Text by Haukur Magnússon Photo by Skari well, so really, I just want to communicate. I want people to understand. But I guess in The annual Þorrablót celebrations are at hand. ancestors’ traditions, and to get shitfaced Iceland, many people understand Swedish or They make for a fine excuse to get drunk. while at it, as they have done for the past 50 what? years or so. Þorrablót is an important part of Well, I guess… Everyone is supposed Once again, it is time for the traditional Icelandic culture, so much that those living to learn Danish in school, so we have a weird-food article, to be published around abroad will even celebrate in small groups and little grasp of Swedish I guess. the month of February, for our foreign read- import foul food for the occasion. They make But what about outside Reykjavík, do you ership to scoff at all the strange, foul-tasting for excellent parties, and those who can’t think people there are going to understand stuff Icelanders will traditionally eat around stomach the pickled ram testicles can usually less Swedish? this time of year, and for locals to scoff at the get by fine consuming the dried fish and the No, I believe it is about the same, they Grapevine for getting it all wrong, yet again. smoked lamb. might even understand more Swedish It’s a seasonal thing, and now is the season. Aside from the rather pleasant smoked outside Reykjavík. So, let’s go: lamb and dried fish, there’s the usual fare an Really? If you are reading this before February 18, Icelander will tell you about when wanting to Yes, people can be a little focused on and you are located in Iceland, you are cur- gross you out and seem special. There’s Svið, English in Reykjavík, but back to you. rently experiencing the month of Þorri accord- the seared sheep’s heads that are readily avail- So, you are about to start working on a ing to the Old Norse calendar. Known as the able year ‘round albeit specially enjoyed during new album? harshest, most unforgiving month of them all, Þorrablót, and the Sviðasulta, Svið-jam, which No, not really, I am just sitting around and Þorri begins on a Friday of the 13th week of is Svið in compressed, gelatinous form. Putrid playing for my self really. There is always this winter (which occurs January 19-25) – known shark is also a staple of Þorri cuisine, usually period when I sit with my guitar and play, as Bóndadagur, or Husband’s Day – and stays enjoyed with a shot of Brennivín. Magáll is and just take a little time with it. with us until the traditionally gentler Góa essentially smoked sheep’s abs, pressed to a How do you go about writing then, is it month commences on the Sunday of the hard core. The aforementioned dried fish and just you alone? 18th week of winter (February 18-24). That smoked lamb are pretty self-explanatory and Yes, I always sit alone and I write the music particular Sunday is also referred to as Konu- remain favourites of those not inclined to the and the words at the same time. I just try dif- dagur – ‘Housewife’s day’ or ‘Women’s day’, sour taste of pickled meats. ferent things to see what works. Sometimes and has its own set of accompanying rituals, Which brings us to the sour-division. Lun- nothing comes of it, but sometimes, it clicks. just like Bóndadagur. dabaggar are a concoction of internal organs I guess it is mostly about patience. That is Þorri is probably best known for the from sheep, rolled up in nets, boiled and sour- why I am just sitting around with my guitar month’s accompanying feasts – and the point soaked in mysa (whey). The year-round food now, if you just sit around and play a little for of this article – the Þorrablót. Þorrablót are of Slátur (Iceland’s version of Haggis, sheep’s long enough, you start to form ideas after held at random points during the month and liver or blood mixed with rye and sewn up into Lisa Ekdahl Interviews a Grapevine Journalist a while. usually feature lots of drinking along with the sheep’s stomachs) also gets the sour mysa Do you give it much thought whether to consumption of spoiled and/or rotten food treatment, which makes it taste a lot weirder sing in English or Swedish? (with a few exceptions). The feasts are Ice- than it usually does. And that’s saying some- Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson No, I do not give it much thought. There is a landers’ way of honouring their ancestors’ thing. And last, and definitely least (in one need for music in Swedish here in Sweden as methods to store food; as there were no re- reporter’s opinion), in the weirding-tourists- well, even if everyone understands English. frigerators available and salt was a rare treat, out division are the sour ram testicles, or Hrút- Swedish sensation, Jazz diva, and pop idol I will bet you that it is the smallest town Sebastian played in Borgarfjörður Eystri There is still a need for music in the mother they resorted to pickling, smoking, drying and spungar. The name says it all, a ram’s testicles Lisa Ekdahl is on tour yet again, having you have ever played. last summer, and that is a town of may- tongue, don’t you think? I mean, it has to rotting some of their foodstuffs to be con- are pickled in mysa for an extended period of played in Norway and Demark recently, she Really, well how big is it? be… 100 people. be the same in Iceland; you probably need a sumed during periods when fresh food was time. All that pickled stuff has the same foul is on her way to play in Iceland for the third Around 800 maybe… Wow… how exciting. Exciting for them as little bit of both, don’t you? scarce. Deadly winters used to be the norm taste, really, so it’s rather the texture of the time in two years, playing dates in Reykjavík, Oh my… Oh my. But do you think maybe well. When you are used to playing for a Well, I guess, but I also think a lot of before this whole global warming thing, you pickled items that counts. And testicle texture Akureyri and Bolungarvík, before heading to there will be people from neighbouring large audience, it can be very exciting to play bands chose to sing in English, so they know, people would freeze to death on their really isn’t all that swell. But, you know, try a Sweden. The Grapevine contacted Lisa to ask towns there perhaps? for a small crowd. will have more of a chance… way to the barn. bite. It’ll make for an interesting story at some her a few questions about her ongoing tour, Probably, there is a bigger town close You have managed to be successful in Yes, I understand, but you never know when So Icelanders will gather with their Bren- stupid bar in the future. but the roles were quickly reversed. by, about 5000 people, and other towns two different genres, both as a jazz or if you are going to get the chance you nivín and their pickled foods to honour their as well, so… singer, and as a pop musician, do you know. That is very hard to know. I am just Is there much anticipation for your Have you ever been there? have a preference of the two? very glad to have the Nordic countries, be- shows in Sweden? Yes, sure. Usually, I like best what I am doing at the cause it means I don’t have that much of a I do not know exactly how it looks, but I Well how does it look? time. Most people find it to be the other way need to be very famous, I mean there are hope so. I am traveling with a slightly differ- It is rather beautiful actually, especially around; they think the thing they are not do- people who understand, so I always have ent set-up now than usual. It is a much more in the wintertime… ing at the time is better than what they are many potential listeners even it is not distrib- Friday Night Amongst intimate production. It is just one more per- Well, how do you get there? I do not know if doing. But for me it is the other way around, uted all over the world. son with me on the stage, so the concerts I am flying or if you drive there. and I think that is very good, that you can get But there are a lot of musicians and art- the Bingo Die-hards are very intimate. You will probably be flying to Ísafjörður, into what you are doing. I think it is very cool ists coming out of Sweden in the last This is the third time in two years you which is a bigger town. to do jazz, because there is a lot of improvi- few years; do you have any sort of ex- Text by Gulla Hermannsdóttir Photo by Skari play in Iceland, how come you keep re- OK, and then you drive the rest? sation involved, but then I am not writing my planation as to why Swedish musicians turning? Yes, it is about 20 minutes drive. own music, so then I really miss writing. That are doing so well? The air is hazy with cigarette smoke and two more numbers. A moment goes by, in When I first came to Iceland two years ago, I am really looking forward to it. But I also is why I’ve just done those two albums in No, I do not know, but I think you are right, the odour it generates blends with the faint which I play my leap of triumph over in my I did not even know I had fans in Iceland, think, in a way, when you have such a lit- Swedish, because I really like writing, I think there are more Swedish musicians being scent of cheap glue and hefty markers, the mind, when suddenly it happens. The bingo so it was such a positive surprise. I was very tle set up, just me and one other person, it that is such a big part of me as an artist. noticed than there are Danish musicians for two most essential weapons of the bingo patrol rushes up to the proud winner, who is glad to experience how people welcomed makes it possible for me to play a small town What about the language then, do you example. But I do not know what it is. May- player. I glide through the grand hall, peer- holding up one of dozen cards, just to make me. I just thought I would be a representa- like that, rather than if you are bringing a have a preference whether you sing in be there is this tradition, like Abba maybe, ing through the fog for an available spot for sure everything is in order. tive from Sweden in some sort of Nordic ex- big band. But I do not know… What do you English or Swedish? even if that is not the kind of music people my amateur self amidst the committed vet- A recess is declared and I gather myself change program. But then I found out that I think? Hmmm… I sort of like both actually. I think it are listening to now, but there is this idea erans, my eyes battle the colour glory beam- and move towards the home-brewed cof- had an audience in Iceland, and that made Well, I do not know, there has been this is very important what you have to say, and among Swedes that we can make it outside ing from bingo cards in the shade of neon, fee, which I pour into a plastic cup. I walk me very happy. sort of trend for famous bands to play that people understand what you are sing- Sweden, I guess, but I don’t know. What do toning with flamboyant shell suits of flocks about this landscape of unfamiliar faces until You are playing in Bolungarvík this time; in these small towns in Iceland. Belle & ing about. I think it is cool when I am playing you think? of grey-haired ladies, make up the majority I come across a much smaller playing area of competitors, bearing shawls of their own where the action is broadcast on several tele- manufacture with their fragile glasses neatly vision screens. The inhabitants of this room placed either on their heads or noses. are even older than those in the main room I get the last vacant seat in the house and I wonder if I have perhaps wandered into and frantically search for a pen so I can start the VIP section. Then I notice the non-smok- my humble attempt for the prize, which for ing signs and the respirators overshadowing me is the honour of being able to stand up some of the residents. Maybe these folks and shout the code word loud and clear. started out playing in the bigger room and The mother and daughter duo sitting beside moved down here over the years. me rapidly scan through their row of cards, I purchase another card, which this time barely leaving time to reach for the large bag is in bright orange. I head towards my seat of sweets situated between them. I decide and notice that the bag of candy has been to ask the fellows sporting matching fleece emptied. I get into my bingo posture once sweaters on the opposite table for brief in- more but all of a sudden a shadow is cast structions. over the table. I look up at a joyful face asking The game is on. Numbers are read in a me if I’d like some smørrebrød on the house, monotonous voice and the location is so quiet which I happily accept. The announcer’s soft I can hear the lady seated behind me scratch timbre is accompanied by the smacker of her wig. I tighten the grip on my pen and clear mouths full of marzipan and mayonnaise and my throat to prepare the cry of victory. All of I’m thinking there are worse ways to spend a a sudden the crowd bursts out with laughter. Friday night. The announcer has misspoken and the inci- dent has loosened up the atmosphere. The Bingó in Vinabær buzz of interrupted players travels through in Wed, Fri and Sun at 7: 15 pm – 11:00 pm a wave and sweat gets wiped off anticipat- Skipholt 33, 105 Reykjavík ing faces. I put myself in gear once more. Just Tel.: 553 4054, www.bingo.is 26_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_TRAVEL/UNDERGROUND REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_TRAVEL/DAY TRIPS_27 Short Day Trips Around Reykjavík

Distance from Reykjavík 45 km Distance from Reykjavík 71 km

Laugaskarð Swimming Pool Icelandic Folklore at Stokkseyri

Notable for its greenhouses and floriculture, soaking in the hot tub, you can gaze at the Time passes easily when visiting the small make your heart jump a little. After the tour Hveragerði locals have made several clever steep mountain hills that seem to be only village of Stokkseyri, situated at the south- a drink at the Ghost Bar, located in the build- moves to make use of the geothermal heat. metres away. Its architecture is also interest- coast and only a 45-minute drive from the ing where the Brennivín-Ghost rules his king- The swimming pool Laugaskarð, built in the ing. The pool is moderately designed and, al- capital. There are plenty of interesting sites dom, is highly recommended. 1940s, is one of them. Ranking among the though constructed almost 70 years ago, it’s to visit, a gourmet restaurant, Fjöruborðið, As there are many more curious crea- Exploring the Þingvellir Lava Fields From the Inside Out top pools in the country, and the best in the equipped with all the up-to-date indulgences specializing in the art of cooking lobster to tures and intriguing spirits living among us world according to some Grapevine staffers, we modern folk crave so much, including a pure perfection, and various impressive mu- humans, Stokkseyri residents naturally recog- the swimming pool alone attracts dozens of jacuzzi, natural steam bath, massage parlour seums established by the town’s creative nised the need to open up a new museum Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Photo by Skari visitors every weekend who just want to re- and spa. inhabitants. Among them is the infamous on the ground floor, dedicated to elves and lax in the hot tub. Together with the quiet vil- After lingering in the hot tub for hours, haunted Ghost Centre, located inside the Art trolls. Opening to the public in the beginning lage vibe in the calm country town, the stay there’s no better way of completing the day and Culture House at Hafnargata 9, a build- of March, the 1,200m2 museum, entitled It is still pitch dark outside at nine in the terious lava formations around Þingvellir. First there was no mistaking the cold in the cave challenge. Apart from the stony and jagged is almost indescribable for those who haven’t than dropping by at Eden for some ice cream. ing that formerly served as a freezing plant. Icelandic Wonders, will feature an ice bar lit morning when my photographer and I meet order of business was to fit the two-inch ice- at -2°C. floor, the slippery ice and the darkness, I soon tried it. Just ask whoever you pass on the street, they There, guests will not only come into con- up by northern lights, with ice transported up with our guides from Arctic Rafting out- spikes on my size 12 boots and to fit the hel- Once our eyes had adjusted to the dark- found out that it is absolutely impossible to But every pool in the country has a hot will know the way. Its ice-cream is so good tact with some of the country’s most famous from the Vatnajökull Glacier, and the oppor- side the Cintamani Centre on Laugavegur, met and the headlamp on my considerable ness, we began to see the peculiar shapes move gracefully wearing spikes. My foot-eye tub, so what’s special about this one? There that despite the ice-cream kiosks located on ghosts (who are very friendly phantoms on tunity to visit the incredible world of elves, heading for the Þingvellir National Park, cranium. The light is obviously of vital impor- of the cave. The awe-inspiring and rugged coordination was severely hampered by the are several things that make this pool distinct almost every street corner in Reykjavík, peo- the whole) they can also listen to all sorts trolls and hidden people. about an hour outside Reykjavík, to explore tance, but the spikes are equally necessary scenery creates a subliminal feeling in the two extra inches strapped to my soles and from all others within close reach. First, and ple still drive all the way to Hveragerði for a of old ghost stories while exploring the mu- Both museums will be open daily from the lava cave Gjábakkahellir in the lava field when exploring deep caves in the Icelandic viewer. The roof is filled with both long ici- it took a few minor bumps to figure that my most important of all, is the fact that it’s an taste of the local ice-cream. seum. Don’t miss out on going into room 14-21 during summer, and from 14-18 on Gjábakkahraun, formed in volcanic eruptions wintertime. Rainwater seeps through the lay- cles, formed as the dripping water hardens legs were a bit longer than I was used to. On outdoor pool with an incredible view. While number 19, although it will most definitely weekends during the winter months. from a nearby shield volcano south of Mount ers of lava, taking a good 20 years to travel in the cold, as well as lava stalactites, formed top of that, the spikes kept getting tangled Hrafnabjörg thousands of years ago. from the surface to the floor of the cave, 18- when the melting hot low-viscosity lava drips up in my trouser legs, and I nearly tripped Gjábakkahellir, considered 15,000 years 20 metres below. Once there it forms thick from the ceiling while it cools down and over a few times. Distance from Reykjavík ca. 30 km Distance from Reykjavík ca. 30 km old, was discovered during the construction chunks of ice on the floor, making it nearly hardens. The surface, or the cave’s “floor” After one hour, light finally started to ap- of the nearby Kóngsvegur (King’s Road), built impossible to travel across without the spikes on the other hand, is littered with rocks that pear in front of us as we reached the other for the visit of Fredrik VIII, King of Denmark to dig in. have come loose from the ceiling and walls. end. After climbing up through a relatively (and Iceland) in 1907. At the time, there were It is safe to enter the cave during the win- small hole, up towards the roof, we were about 30 caves of this kind known around Cold and Dark Places ter months, while the frost holds everything back in the sunlight, again waiting for our the country. Today, there are about 500 About 20 metres into the cave, all trace of together. There is a two to three week period eyes to adjust to the light. known lava caves around Iceland. The caves daylight had vanished and we were reduced during June/July when the frost thaws from “How long do think the cave is?” have formed in previous volcanic eruptions, to using the small headlamps attached to the soil and big rocks from the cave’s ceiling Our guide was asking participants to when the top layer of the flowing lava cools our helmets. In order to make the transition come loose and fall to the ground, the cave guess how far we had travelled in one hour. down, creating a hard crust near the surface, smoother, we sat down for about two min- is not recommended as a travel destination I will not reveal the right answer, in case you while underneath, conduits form where a utes, allowing our eyes to adjust to the dark- during that period. should ever find yourself on a guided tour stream of low-viscosity lava continues to ness. Sitting in the dark, nearly blind, the The most important thing to remember through Gjábakkahellir, but indicative of just flow. When the lava eventually stops flow- other senses were brought to the forefront. during cave exploration is to keep your eyes how deceptive you senses can be in this sort ing, small tubes, or tunnels, are left as the The distinctive smell of soil and mould that glued to the ground, every single step of the of environment, guesses ranged from 300 lava drains through, leaving cave-like chan- is present in most caves became very obvi- way. First-timers tend to forget this and start metres to three kilometres. nels like this one. ous and the sound from the constantly drip- walking while gazing at the cave’s incred- On location, we were joined by 14 tour- ping water became twice as loud. And even ible roof, often resulting in nasty spills and Trip provided by Arctic Rafting ists from France and Italy, eager to find out though this was a relatively warm January badly sprained ankles on the uneven surface. Laugavegur 11, Tel.: 562 7000 what lurked beneath the surface of the mys- day, the outside temperature around 5°C, Travelling through the cave can be quite a www.arcticrafting.is

Krýsuvík Lake Kleifarvatn

Ten minutes south of Lake Kleifarvatn is Krý- for a better view of the sights. Just be careful At nine square kilometres, Lake Kleifarvatn is around the lake, the grey sandstone has suvík. As these two areas are closely con- not to walk too close to the hot-springs, as the largest lake on the Reykjanes peninsula been used as sculpture material. Inspired by nected, geothermal heat with its bubbling the surface can easily give way with danger- and the third largest in southern Iceland, al- ancient cave paintings, creative visitors have mud pots and hot springs is even more char- ous consequences. Follow the signs and you though its size tends to vary a bit, especially started decorating the walls by carving their acteristic of Krýsuvík than Lake Kleifarvatn. should be safe. in recent years. After an earthquake in 2000 names or pictures in the stone, and you can When driving the main road, you’ll notice The most active volcanic area is named the lake started draining rapidly. Like water clearly see some of these modern rock paint- the steam soaring from the hills immediately Seltún, located in Hveradalur valley. Mud draining from a sink, its water level began ings when driving the road leading to the as the distinct and somewhat unwelcoming pots, fumaroles and boiling hot springs can to decrease. This obscure occurrence caught lake itself. smell of sulphur from hot-springs seeps into be spotted in every direction and a warm the attention of local as well as international Also worth mentioning for all those Energy for life through forces of nature your car. A few metres from the marked out rivulet floats down the valley. Here, the evi- geologists who are still speculating how this fishing enthusiasts out there, trout can be parking lot, the colourful area appears. dence of geothermal heat is visible every day was even possible. caught in the lake, especially at the south- Surrounded by lava and peculiar flora, of the year. For an even more amazing expe- Located in the middle of a highly volcanic ernmost part. this area is especially beautiful during winter, rience, if you hike up to the mountain Svei- area about 35 kilometres south of Reykjavík, when the contrast between the snow and fluháls, you’ll get a magnificent panoramic the lake, surrounded by a barren landscape the green, white and beige setting, shaped view over the whole area. of sandstone cliffs and black sand beaches, is by the bubbling pits and hot-springs provide Only minutes away south from Krýsuvík easy to reach and ideal for a day trip as there for a unique photo-opportunity. is the Krýsuvíkurberg cliff, where thousands are many great hiking trails around the area. As this is a popular tourist destination, of seabirds nest with a view over the Atlantic Lake Kleifarvatn isn’t only interesting for its www.bluelagoon.com platforms have been put up around the area Ocean. size and surroundings. At numerous spots Car provided by Hertz, Tel.: 522 4400 28_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_TRAVEL/SURFING

Alliance Francaise in cooperation with Peugot & Bernhard present: French Film Festival 3 March – 1 April

Erna Ómarsdóttir in “The Warriors of Beauty” by Pierre Coulibeuf “As Long as There’s Surf, We Won’t Be Leaving!”

Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Photos by Gulli

On a chilly January afternoon, a Grapevine there, we met up with Ingó, who has been next good surf spot, which are plentiful, will be possible to ride the breaks again. Af- journalist and a photographer followed a surfing here for seven years, Tinna, a begin- apparently, especially around the Reykjanes ter more than two hours, when me and my group of local surfers to Þorlákshöfn, where ner in the sport, and Arana, a New Zealand peninsula and Snæfellsnes. Some of them photographer are starting to get pretty damn they jumped into the freezing ocean to ride native who has been surfing in Iceland for are well known, such as Þorlákshöfn, Sand- cold standing there on the slippery rocks and the large waves breaking right off the rocky the past five years. While putting on their vík and Grindavík. Other spots are kept a se- staring out to the ocean that seems to be go- coast. gear they explain that you need to be well cret. Only the die-hards know about them, ing flat by now, one after another, the surf- prepared and dress in a 6mm wetsuit from and they like to keep it that way. ers put their feet on dry land again and start When I used to think about surfing, I would top to bottom, covering every inch of your Watching the long stretch of unwelcom- heading back to the car. always connect it with beautiful white sandy skin, except for the face, to hit the water. ing rocks covered in seaweed that separate “These were some OK waves today. Yes- beaches, turquoise-blue sea, tropical climate, “Yeah, these aren’t exactly friendly con- the land from the black ocean, I ask Tinna if terday was much better though,” Ingó tells sun-lotion, shorts or bikinis. Perhaps even ditions,” Arana says as we stand at the park- she isn’t at all scared of banging her head on me as the three of them start packing their some Piña Colada to cool down while relax- ing lot and look down towards the rocky one of them. stuff back in the car. ing in a small beach-hut between waves. coast. Although it’s a beautiful day, the tem- “Yes, a little bit, but the guys tell me “But aren’t you all freezing?” I ask. Given this is the picture I had painted in my perature is only a few degrees above zero. there’s no need to worry,” she says. “Well, a little bit yeah. The waves weren’t head, I hadn’t even considered that a thriv- Only two days ago it had been snowing and With that said, she pulls the wetsuit hood as good as they usually are. Having to wait ing surfer-culture existed in Iceland, where I can’t help wondering if this isn’t as extreme over her head, climbs down a rocky cliff with so long in between makes it a little cold to my own concept of surfing is far removed as surfing can possibly get. her surfboard under her arm and jumps into be out in the water,” Arana says. Even if he is from the reality. “Has anybody told you you’re insane?” the water. I guess it’s all just a question of shivering from the cold, only pure enjoyment It would be altogether more reasonable was my first obvious question. facing your fears, I tell myself as I stumble shines from his face. to picture the extreme-sport enthusiasts “Well, yeah, all the time! We sometimes down after them and try not to fall on my “The worst thing is when you have to trooping to the mountains for snowboard- meet the people who are waiting for the head. take your wetsuit off outside the car when ing around this time of year. I never thought ferry to Vestmannaeyjar here at the harbour. The threesome paddle out to the point the temperature is below zero,” Ingó adds: the barren Icelandic coastline would rank as If they have been watching us out there, where the waves break. One after another, “But still, we are definitely going back to- a desirable destination to practice the sport they usually ask us if we’re nuts,” Arana apparently unafraid of any serious crashes, morrow.” of surfing, attracting a loyal group that hits says. “I never even imagined that there was they start dropping into the waves like noth- With the car’s heating system set to the the water even in January when the average the slightest possibility of surfing in Iceland ing was easier. From where I stand, they look max, we wave goodbye to the group. What temperature often goes below zero and the before I came here. I just found out about like small seals swimming around in the dis- we’d learned was that although it takes time, ocean’s temperature is little more than five it after meeting Ingó. But here, the waves tance. I can only imagine how they are feel- patience and stamina to get any good at surf- degrees celsius. But for hard-core surfing can get up to seven metres high. That’s just ing. Not only are they free from a crowd of ing (a reason why so many beginners don’t devotees, the only thing that matters is the amazing,” he adds. noisy beach-goers, but the landscape out stick it out for long before giving up), when waves, not the glorious extras. Two other surfers step out of a car parked here provides dramatic scenery probably not you accomplish standing on your board and I discovered that surfing spots in Iceland right next to ours and start getting ready. I familiar to many non-Icelandic surfers, mak- ride the wave for the first time, there’s no are considered to be top of the line and the am curious to know if the surfing scene is big ing it all the more special. turning back. surfing conditions rank highly on the world- in Iceland. They tell me it’s not a large group. Suddenly Ingó comes running out of the It is a feeling so addictive that neither scale. If you don’t mind the cold and the About ten Icelandic regulars and an occa- sea. Considering the conditions, my first snow nor frost can keep you from running strong currents, the locations easily qualify sional foreign surfer have caught on to the thought was that he had fled the cold wa- back into the freezing cold sea. This is why a as outstanding surfing destinations, particu- idea. Every year a few new surfers join the ter to seek some warmth. My guess was far group of surfing-maniacs returns to the wa- larly during the winter months when the size group but, understandably, not all can stand from correct. He only wanted to change a ter over and over again and continue search- and frequency of waves are at their peak. such harsh conditions. It’s not enough to buy surfboard. “As long as there’s surf, we won’t ing the coastline for some new undiscovered After a 40-minute drive from Reykjavík, all the expensive gear: in the end, all that will be leaving!” he said, and ran back to the spots and the wave of a lifetime. we arrived in the small fishing village of keep you out in the water long enough is a ocean. Þorlákshöfn. Located on the south coast of strong will and determination. As the weather can be quite unpredict- Iceland, Þórlákshöfn is blessed with quality The wind is favourable according to the able the surfers have to use every last minute waves breaking right off the coast. Once weather forecast. The group speeds to the they can go out. They never know when it Ad Culture House Magazine (PHIL) 255x200 11/8/06 4:29 PM Page 1

30_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 02_2007_PARTING SHOT

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The right jeep for a journey in Iceland 0 4 / 2 0 0 6

The view from the pond - downtown Reykjavík.

Classifieds Grapevine Ad Index

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Do you want to place Cultural Events Shopping [email protected] a classified ad? City Theatre 29 Cintamani 3 www.hostel.is French Film Festival 45 Egils Lite 48 Iceland Symphony Orchestra 29 Grolsch 9 Call 540-3614 or In Iceland there are many beautiful places to explore that can only be visited with the +354-5626533 Mr. Destiny 12 +354-8956533 email us at Pourquoi Pas? 11 Transportation help of a jeep. Instead of being in a crowded tour bus you can plan a trip on your own. Bring THIS AD and [email protected] Budget Car Rental 41 Hertz has a great variety of jeeps and 4WD vehicles to choose from. We have 7 rental get 15% discount! Galleries and Museum Hertz Car Rental 47 Gallery Ford 35 Sixt Car Rental 13 locations around Iceland and several service stations along the way. Laxness Museum 30 Reykjavík Art Museum 45 Other +354 50 50 600 • www.hertz.is Directorate of Health 35 We are your car rental experts in Iceland. Hertz locations in Iceland: Keflavík Airport, Reykjavík, Ísafjörður, Akureyri, Höfn, Egilsstaðir grapevine.is REYKJAVÍK´S ENGLISH LANGUAGE NEWSPAPER YOUR FREE COPY

ISSUE TWO: FEBRUARY 09 - MArch 08

Stuffed with stuff We know from the 1948 telegram that the Ameri- can Legation (Embassy) in Iceland was reporting on Laxness’ movement. Chay Lemone speculates on intelligence gathering on key figures in Iceland during the cold war. Page 16

My foot-eye coordination was severely hampered by the two extra inches strapped to my soles and it took a few minor bumps to figure that my legs were a bit longer than I was used to. Sveinn Birkir Björnsson goes underground Page 26

Right before they wheeled me in, I laid on the gurney in the position that I would assume during the proce- dure and had my wife write the famous line from the opening of Star Trek, “To boldly go where no man has gone before…,” on my butt cheeks with the marker. Erik Davidek had his insides checked out. Page 19

Aside from the rather pleas- ant smoked lamb and dried fish, there’s the usual fare an Icelander will tell you about when wanting to gross you out and seem special. WINNER Haukur S. Magnússon samples some of the Egils Lite, 2006 Gold Winner at the World Beer Cup and the Mondes Selection, traditional Icelandic food. is the perfect blend of great taste and fewer calories. Page 24 Now available on tap. Léttöl