Dunhuang beijing Climbing – an ancient Miaos Out of a bunch of great performances and big first ascents, the prize goes to tradition Dani Andrada who sent the eight pitches Press Release III During the three-day gathering, the of his route ‘Corazon de Ensueño’. xian 550 climbers (including 286 Chinese) The route runs across the entire arch were scattered across the many areas with a maximum difficulty of 8c. lasa three gorges in order to climb the maximum number Arnaud Petit and Stéphanie Bodet of routes possible so that they would Chengdu shanghai made the first ascent of the route they be well ranked for the flash contest. established, ‘Lost in Translation’ (7b+, Hundreds of curious spectators turned 7c+, 8a+, 8a+). Mickael Fuselier was guiYANG out as well. The Geruos (local people the first to onsight the same line, and from the Getu Valley), who were very then sent two other big routes, ‘Powder impressed, came from far and wide Finger’ (8c) and ‘Polvo Tecnico’ (8c), in to watch the climbers. Yet, climbing the Great Arch. hong kong is not new to them. Climbing is an ancient practice that started when the Gérôme Pouvreau onsighted ‘Bip Bip haikou Miao first began placing the bodies and Coyote’ (8b) in Banyang’s Cave. of the deceased at the top of crags to A trio from Petzl’s women’s team protect them from scavengers and with also showed top form in Banyang’s Petzl RocTrip 2011 China the ultimate goal of returning them to Cave. Florence Pinet (FR), Mélissa le their original home. This practice was Nevé (FR) and Nina Caprez (CH) sent discontinued 100 years ago but the ‘Treblinka pour Diego’ (8b). Getu Valley: The Future of harvesting of bird droppings (guano) for use as fertilizer to grow corn and Send fest in the Great Arch other vegetables has kept the climbing - Nina Caprez: ‘Powder Finger’ (8b+) in International Climbing tradition alive. In this region, one of the the Great Arch poorest in China, electricity, running - Steve McClure (GB): onsight ‘Bip Bip water and the first road didn’t arrive et Coyote’ (8b) in Banyang’s Cave A group of 550 climbers from 35 nations on five continents as well until 2003. One part of the valley - Gabriele Moroni (IT): posted the first as 50 volunteers, including Team Petzl and all the organizers, met has become a natural park and, for 9a at Getu, and perhaps even in China in a hidden valley at the end of the world to participate in a global the tourists, six ‘spidermen’ solo a with ‘Coup de Bambou’ event and discover a totally new and magical spot. Getu Valley is 108-meter wall beneath Getu’s Great Arch. The RocTrip was an exceptional A meeting of cultures a new climbing destination for all levels of climbers. It’s an extra- show for these spidermen. ordinary climbing paradise consisting of 250 pitches spread across For all the villagers gathered around Petzl has made every effort to organize 15 crags in three areas of this scenic valley tucked away in Guizhou the cliffs, the kind of climbing that an international event that respects the Petzl showed them is a completely culture of the host country and especially Province. For Petzl’s ninth RocTrip, we went to China! different sport and each of the climbers, of the local valley. The government is regardless of their ability, was a true already planning to preserve this area hero! for outdoor activities and to allow the development of responsible and environmentally-friendly tourism. In 2007, Olivier Balma, a French high- The birth of a new climbing First ascents by a high level of Without a doubt, the amazing exploits of mountain guide who was supervising international climbers these climbers will long be remembered, spot! A bit of history the training of future Chinese alpine as well as otherlasting impressions: Thanks to the Petzl RocTrip, this area’s guides, discovered the Great Arch of None of the members of Team Petzl, Team Petzl at the event: families of three (or more!) on their fantastic potential for climbing has Getu. He organized training sessions a group of the world’s best climbers, Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, Dani Andrada, Nina mobylettes; the locals in traditional been revealed to the world. The caves and equipped thirty pitches. News missed out on this opportunity. Among clothing at the foot of the routes; small Caprez, Mickael Fuselier, Gérome Pouvreau, and arches of Getu above the Getu He about this exceptional climbing spot them, Steve McClure (GB) confirmed the stores completely emptied by the Florence Pinet, Enzo Oddo, Melissa Lenévé, Ste- river, provide a landscape similar to spread like wildfire! enormous potential of the place: “There ve McClure, Joe Kinder, Sasha Metha, Said Bel- what can be found at Yangshuo in the is all kinds of climbing here, all grades, climbers; an opening ceremony on par with the Beijing Olympics; the delicious haj, Daila Ojeda, Loic Gaidioz, Digiulian, Vahib- neighboring province of Guangxi, as In autumn 2010, Petzl invited the short and multi-pitch routesgrades 5 to food; the omnipresent smiles of the havTony Lamiche, Arnaud Petit, Stéphanie Bodet well as in Thailand, Vietnam, or further first commando team of international 9, on crimps, pockets, tufas, columns, villagers; their warm welcome; and the and many more. away at the famous Mogotes in the route setters who opened around 50 vertical walls and overhangs.” “At the astonished looks of the children! Vinales Valley of Cuba. new lines in 15 days in the Great Arch high end especially, the Great Arch It was an event of a lifetime! Find all the images and the latest in a long se- During the 1990s, the provincial sector (Chuangshang Cave), Buddha is unlike anything in the world! I am ries of news at Petzl.com/roctrip. Starting in June government of Guizhou decided to Cave and Devil’s Cave. The routes were humbled by it, and I love it!” 2011, catch all the preparation, latest gear, and protect the Getu area. Ideally located at fairly difficult and overhanging with an French climber Liv Sansoz (two-time Further information: interaction with the locals… It’s the beginning of the end of a paved road (built in 2003), average grade between 6c and 8c. world champion) also loves the Great www.petzl.com/roctrip an adventure! a natural park was created complete In spring 2011, a second route-setting Arch. “I’ve never seen a geological with trails, signage and stairways. trip was organized with the objective of formation like this anywhere. The arch with its tunnel of light is totally unique. PR contact: Anne Gery Anxious to revitalize the image of puttingup 200 pitches as well asaddinga The walls are more than 400 meters 33 (0)4 50 47 24 61 the place, the Chinese government lot more ‘easy’ routes. In total, 250 with a roof of 100 to 150 meters, which [email protected] organized an outdoor event with a pitches were added that included all make this a special place. It feels like speed climbing competition on artificial types of climbing and grades ranging another world!” Petzl contact: Eric Wynn holds. A small climbing wall was built at from 4c to 9a. 33 (0)4 76 92 09 00 the entrance to the park. [email protected]