DOCSLIB.ORG

Petzl Roctrip 2011 China Getu Valley: the Future of International

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Petzl Roctrip 2011 China Getu Valley: the Future of International Dunhuang beijing Climbing – an ancient Miaos Out of a bunch of great performances and big first ascents, the prize goes to tradition Dani Andrada who sent the eight pitches Press Release III During the three-day gathering, the of his route ‘Corazon de Ensueño’. xian 550 climbers (including 286 Chinese) The route runs across the entire arch were scattered across the many areas with a maximum difficulty of 8c. lasa three gorges in order to climb the maximum number Arnaud Petit and Stéphanie Bodet of routes possible so that they would Chengdu shanghai made the first ascent of the route they be well ranked for the flash contest. established, ‘Lost in Translation’ (7b+, Hundreds of curious spectators turned 7c+, 8a+, 8a+). Mickael Fuselier was guiYANG out as well. The Geruos (local people the first to onsight the same line, and from the Getu Valley), who were very then sent two other big routes, ‘Powder impressed, came from far and wide Finger’ (8c) and ‘Polvo Tecnico’ (8c), in to watch the climbers. Yet, climbing the Great Arch. hong kong is not new to them. Climbing is an ancient practice that started when the Gérôme Pouvreau onsighted ‘Bip Bip haikou Miao first began placing the bodies and Coyote’ (8b) in Banyang’s Cave. of the deceased at the top of crags to A trio from Petzl’s women’s team protect them from scavengers and with also showed top form in Banyang’s Petzl RocTrip 2011 China the ultimate goal of returning them to Cave. Florence Pinet (FR), Mélissa le their original home. This practice was Nevé (FR) and Nina Caprez (CH) sent discontinued 100 years ago but the ‘Treblinka pour Diego’ (8b). Getu Valley: The Future of harvesting of bird droppings (guano) for use as fertilizer to grow corn and Send fest in the Great Arch other vegetables has kept the climbing - Nina Caprez: ‘Powder Finger’ (8b+) in International Climbing tradition alive. In this region, one of the the Great Arch poorest in China, electricity, running - Steve McClure (GB): onsight ‘Bip Bip water and the first road didn’t arrive et Coyote’ (8b) in Banyang’s Cave A group of 550 climbers from 35 nations on five continents as well until 2003. One part of the valley - Gabriele Moroni (IT): posted the first as 50 volunteers, including Team Petzl and all the organizers, met has become a natural park and, for 9a at Getu, and perhaps even in China in a hidden valley at the end of the world to participate in a global the tourists, six ‘spidermen’ solo a with ‘Coup de Bambou’ event and discover a totally new and magical spot. Getu Valley is 108-meter wall beneath Getu’s Great Arch. The RocTrip was an exceptional A meeting of cultures a new climbing destination for all levels of climbers. It’s an extra- show for these spidermen. ordinary climbing paradise consisting of 250 pitches spread across For all the villagers gathered around Petzl has made every effort to organize 15 crags in three areas of this scenic valley tucked away in Guizhou the cliffs, the kind of climbing that an international event that respects the Petzl showed them is a completely culture of the host country and especially Province. For Petzl’s ninth RocTrip, we went to China! different sport and each of the climbers, of the local valley. The government is regardless of their ability, was a true already planning to preserve this area hero! for outdoor activities and to allow the development of responsible and environmentally-friendly tourism. In 2007, Olivier Balma, a French high- The birth of a new climbing First ascents by a high level of Without a doubt, the amazing exploits of mountain guide who was supervising international climbers these climbers will long be remembered, spot! A bit of history the training of future Chinese alpine as well as otherlasting impressions: Thanks to the Petzl RocTrip, this area’s guides, discovered the Great Arch of None of the members of Team Petzl, Team Petzl at the event: families of three (or more!) on their fantastic potential for climbing has Getu. He organized training sessions a group of the world’s best climbers, Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, Dani Andrada, Nina mobylettes; the locals in traditional been revealed to the world. The caves and equipped thirty pitches. News missed out on this opportunity. Among clothing at the foot of the routes; small Caprez, Mickael Fuselier, Gérome Pouvreau, and arches of Getu above the Getu He about this exceptional climbing spot them, Steve McClure (GB) confirmed the stores completely emptied by the Florence Pinet, Enzo Oddo, Melissa Lenévé, Ste- river, provide a landscape similar to spread like wildfire! enormous potential of the place: “There ve McClure, Joe Kinder, Sasha Metha, Said Bel- what can be found at Yangshuo in the is all kinds of climbing here, all grades, climbers; an opening ceremony on par with the Beijing Olympics; the delicious haj, Daila Ojeda, Loic Gaidioz, Digiulian, Vahib- neighboring province of Guangxi, as In autumn 2010, Petzl invited the short and multi-pitch routesgrades 5 to food; the omnipresent smiles of the havTony Lamiche, Arnaud Petit, Stéphanie Bodet well as in Thailand, Vietnam, or further first commando team of international 9, on crimps, pockets, tufas, columns, villagers; their warm welcome; and the and many more. away at the famous Mogotes in the route setters who opened around 50 vertical walls and overhangs.” “At the astonished looks of the children! Vinales Valley of Cuba. new lines in 15 days in the Great Arch high end especially, the Great Arch It was an event of a lifetime! Find all the images and the latest in a long se- During the 1990s, the provincial sector (Chuangshang Cave), Buddha is unlike anything in the world! I am ries of news at Petzl.com/roctrip. Starting in June government of Guizhou decided to Cave and Devil’s Cave. The routes were humbled by it, and I love it!” 2011, catch all the preparation, latest gear, and protect the Getu area. Ideally located at fairly difficult and overhanging with an French climber Liv Sansoz (two-time Further information: interaction with the locals… It’s the beginning of the end of a paved road (built in 2003), average grade between 6c and 8c. world champion) also loves the Great www.petzl.com/roctrip an adventure! a natural park was created complete In spring 2011, a second route-setting Arch. “I’ve never seen a geological with trails, signage and stairways. trip was organized with the objective of formation like this anywhere. The arch with its tunnel of light is totally unique. PR contact: Anne Gery Anxious to revitalize the image of puttingup 200 pitches as well asaddinga The walls are more than 400 meters 33 (0)4 50 47 24 61 the place, the Chinese government lot more ‘easy’ routes. In total, 250 with a roof of 100 to 150 meters, which [email protected] organized an outdoor event with a pitches were added that included all make this a special place. It feels like speed climbing competition on artificial types of climbing and grades ranging another world!” Petzl contact: Eric Wynn holds. A small climbing wall was built at from 4c to 9a. 33 (0)4 76 92 09 00 the entrance to the park. [email protected].
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Bay Area Bouldering
    Topo Excerpted From: Bay Area Bouldering The best guidebook for the Bay Area’s most classic problems. Available at the SuperTopo store: www.supertopo.com/topostore Bay Area Bouldering Bay Area Overview Map ������������� ���������� 5 � 99 � �� � ���������� �� � 101 ��������� �������� � ������� �� � ������ ���� 505 � � �� ��������� 80 � ���������� 1 �� ���������� 12 �� 80 �� ����� 101 12 ���� 50 ������ �� ��������� ��� 37 12 ��������� ������� 1 ��� ������ 80 5 99 �� �� �� �� �� �� ��� 80 ��������� �� ������� �������� 580 ������� 205 ����� 101 880 �� 99 280 1 �� �������� �� �� 101 9 5 17 �� ���������� ������ 152 5 ������� �������� 1 ������ �� 101 ��������� ���������� 4 B A Y A R E A BOULDERING: SUPERTOPOS Contents Introduction 9 East Bay/San Francisco When to Climb 9 Berkeley 90 Dining 10 Indian Rock 93 Bouldering Ratings 13 Mortar Rock 97 History 14 Little Yosemite 99 Remilard Park 99 North Coast Grizzly Peak 100 Salt Point 17 Glen Canyon 102 Fort Ross 18 Sea Crag 24 South Bay Twin Coves 25 Castle Rock 106 Super Slab 26 Castle Rock Boulders 112 River Mouth 30 Castle Rock Falls 115 Goat Rock 32 Goat/Billy Goat Rock 116 Pomo Canyon 40 Klinghoffers 117 Marshall Gulch 44 Indian Rock 119 Dillon Beach 45 Aquarian Valley 122 Skyline 128 North Bay Farm Hill 129 Stinson Beach 46 Panther Beach 130 Mickey’s Beach 52 Granite Creek 132 Ring Mountain 60 Mount Tamalpais 64 East of The Bay Marin Headlands 65 Rocklin 136 Squaw Rock 66 The Bar 137 Mossy Rock 67 Appendix Sugarloaf Ridge 68 More from SuperTopo 138 Putah Creek 76 About the Author 140 Vacaville 82 Index 141 5 FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT WWW.SUPERTOPO.COM Warning. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport in which severe injuries or death may occur. Relying on the information in this book may increase the danger.
    [Show full text]
  • Actor Network Theory Analysis of Roc Climbing Tourism in Siurana
    MASTER THESIS Actor network theory analysis of sport climbing tourism The case of Siurana, Catalunya Student: Jase Wilson Exam #: 19148985 Supervisor: Professor Tanja Mihalič PhD. Generalitat de Catalunya Mentor: Cati Costals Submitted to: Faculty of Economics University of Ljubljana, Slovenia Submitted on: August 4th, 2017 This page has been left internationally blank. AUTHORSHIP STATEMENT The undersigned _____________________, a student at the University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Economics, (hereafter: FELU), declare that I am the author of the bachelor thesis / master’s thesis /doctoral dissertation entitled________ ____________________________________________, written under supervision of _______________________________________________ and co-supervision of _________________________________________. In accordance with the Copyright and Related Rights Act (Official Gazette of the Republic of Slovenia, Nr. 21/1995 with changes and amendments) I allow the text of my bachelor thesis / master’s thesis / doctoral dissertation to be published on the FELU website. I further declare • the text of my bachelor thesis / master’s thesis / doctoral dissertation to be based on the results of my own research; • the text of my bachelor thesis / master’s thesis / doctoral dissertation to be language- edited and technically in adherence with the FELU’s Technical Guidelines for Written Works which means that I • cited and / or quoted works and opinions of other authors in my bachelor thesis / master’s thesis / doctoral dissertation in accordance with the FELU’s Technical Guidelines for Written Works and • obtained (and referred to in my bachelor thesis / master’s thesis / doctoral dissertation) all the necessary permits to use the works of other authors which are entirely (in written or graphical form) used in my text; • to be aware of the fact that plagiarism (in written or graphical form) is a criminal offence and can be prosecuted in accordance with the Criminal Code (Official Gazette of the Republic of Slovenia, Nr.
    [Show full text]
  • CC J Inners 168Pp.Indd
    theclimbers’club Journal 2011 theclimbers’club Journal 2011 Contents ALPS AND THE HIMALAYA THE HOME FRONT Shelter from the Storm. By Dick Turnbull P.10 A Midwinter Night’s Dream. By Geoff Bennett P.90 Pensioner’s Alpine Holiday. By Colin Beechey P.16 Further Certifi cation. By Nick Hinchliffe P.96 Himalayan Extreme for Beginners. By Dave Turnbull P.23 Welsh Fix. By Sarah Clough P.100 No Blends! By Dick Isherwood P.28 One Flew Over the Bilberry Ledge. By Martin Whitaker P.105 Whatever Happened to? By Nick Bullock P.108 A Winter Day at Harrison’s. By Steve Dean P.112 PEOPLE Climbing with Brasher. By George Band P.36 FAR HORIZONS The Dragon of Carnmore. By Dave Atkinson P.42 Climbing With Strangers. By Brian Wilkinson P.48 Trekking in the Simien Mountains. By Rya Tibawi P.120 Climbing Infl uences and Characters. By James McHaffi e P.53 Spitkoppe - an Old Climber’s Dream. By Ian Howell P.128 Joe Brown at Eighty. By John Cleare P.60 Madagascar - an African Yosemite. By Pete O’Donovan P.134 Rock Climbing around St Catherine’s Monastery in the Sinai Desert. By Malcolm Phelps P.142 FIRST ASCENTS Summer Shale in Cornwall. By Mick Fowler P.68 OBITUARIES A Desert Nirvana. By Paul Ross P.74 The First Ascent of Vector. By Claude Davies P.78 George Band OBE. 1929 - 2011 P.150 Three Rescues and a Late Dinner. By Tony Moulam P.82 Alan Blackshaw OBE. 1933 - 2011 P.154 Ben Wintringham. 1947 - 2011 P.158 Chris Astill.
    [Show full text]
  • MEDIA GUIDE 2018 Englisch
    CON 1. WELCOME NOTE ////////////////////////////////////// TENTS ////// ////////////////// ////////////////// Dear media representatives, 1. Welc ome Note Welcome to adidas ROCKSTARS 2018! We are thrilled to host the eighth edition of our interna - 2. tional bouldering invitational at Stuttgart’s beautiful Porsche-Arena, one of the most modern General In 02 sports arenas in Europe. formation 3. for the Me Schedule dia 04 This year’s event sees over 70 top class athletes from over 20 different countries including 4. multiple Bouldering World Champions, the overall winners and top athletes of the 2018 Boul - adidas ROC 07 dering World Cup, the two-time overall champion and current front-runner of the Lead World KSTARS 4.1 Cup, the two reigning European Bouldering Champions as well as the four-time World Champion General In 08 Combined (Boulder/Lead/Speed). You can look forward to a stellar season finale! formatio 4.2 n Prize Mon 08 When we first came up with the idea for adidas ROCKSTARS, nearly every single athlete we ey talked to mentioned that the best competitions are the ones with a great atmosphere and 4.3 Hea d Referee 13 good music. That input encouraged us to implement our idea of combining ‘climbing’ with 4 ‘music’ live on stage. This year, world-famous MC & Beatboxer DJ Eklips from Paris will heat .4 Regul ations (Abs 12 up the crowds during the final together with extreme sports DJs Chainsaw and Sungod. The 4 tract) renowned American rock climber and hobby dj Dave Graham, who was the fourth person to .5 Partic ipating Cou 19 send Wolfgang Güllich’s legendary route ‘Action Directe (the world’s first 9a), will be spinning ntries the tunes at the after party.
    [Show full text]
  • Adam Ondra Climbs the World's First 9C (5.15D)
    Adam Ondra Climbs the World’s First 9c (5.15d) Prague/Norway - Sep 4, 2017 – Yesterday, Adam Ondra, one of the best rock climbers in the world, made a little piece of climbing history. He finished his project in the Hanshelleren Cave, Flatanger, Norway and established the world’s first 9c route, currently the hardest and only route of this grade in the world. After succeeding at Dawn Wall last year when he repeated the route in a very fast time, the Czech climber Adam Ondra once again set new limits of rock climbing when he successfully sent his project of 9c route in the spectacular Hanshelleren Cave in Norway. Adam has not yet named the route though he has used the working title Project Hard on many occasions in the past. He bolted the route in 2013 and focused on it last year and also this year’s entire season. He made seven trips to Norway and in total spent months there. Also he trained specifically for the project since the beginning of this year and worked closely with a physiotherapist Klaus Isele who helped him to prepare for the very specific moves. All that came together in 20 minutes of super intense climbing at the end of which stands the hardest route in the world and a new scope of what can be achieved in rock climbing. Adam Ondra about sending 9c (5.15d): „In the morning it felt like every other day on the Project. It was hot, but the air was crystal clear and dry. But I felt very little pressure and lot of psyche.
    [Show full text]
  • Download the Poudre Canyon Bouldering Guide Here!
    Poudre Canyon ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE SECOND EDITION By Bennett Scott & Cameron Cross ONLINE VERSION: Selected boulder problems in the upper Poudre Canyon. Laramie, WY WYOMING COLORADO N W E S HWY-287 I-25 Red Feather Lakes CO-14 POUDRE CANYON Mulberry Ave. CO-14 Fort Collins 34 34 Estes Park Loveland HWY-287 Longmont 36 119 Boulder I-25 36 Denver I-70 = AREA COVERED IN THIS GUIDE 2 POUDRE CANYON BOULDERING ! WARNING! Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity responsibility for the safety of those who use that may result in serious injury or death. this guidebook. If you are not an experienced Read this before you use this guide. and proficient climber seek instruction before climbing. The authors and publisher cannot verify the accuracy of information presented Do not attempt climbing without proper in this guide including, but not limited to equipment and training. In addition, this approach or descent routes, problem/route guide should not be used as an instructional descriptions and/or ratings, maps, directions, manual. Information presented in this guide access information, property boundaries, or is based on opinions and should not be management regulations. relied on for personal safety. The authors and publisher assume no responsibility in This guide is a compilation of information the event of injury or death. Do not use this from a variety of sources. Although we guidebook if you are unwilling to assume painstakingly research the information we total responsibility for your safety. provide, it is impossible for us to give first hand knowledge of all the routes presented.
    [Show full text]
  • Rock Climbing Fundamentals Has Been Crafted Exclusively For
    Disclaimer Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity; severe injury or death can occur. The content in this eBook is not a substitute to learning from a professional. Moja Outdoors, Inc. and Pacific Edge Climbing Gym may not be held responsible for any injury or death that might occur upon reading this material. Copyright © 2016 Moja Outdoors, Inc. You are free to share this PDF. Unless credited otherwise, photographs are property of Michael Lim. Other images are from online sources that allow for commercial use with attribution provided. 2 About Words: Sander DiAngelis Images: Michael Lim, @murkytimes This copy of Rock Climbing Fundamentals has been crafted exclusively for: Pacific Edge Climbing Gym Santa Cruz, California 3 Table of Contents 1. A Brief History of Climbing 2. Styles of Climbing 3. An Overview of Climbing Gear 4. Introduction to Common Climbing Holds 5. Basic Technique for New Climbers 6. Belaying Fundamentals 7. Climbing Grades, Explained 8. General Tips and Advice for New Climbers 9. Your Responsibility as a Climber 10.A Simplified Climbing Glossary 11.Useful Bonus Materials More topics at mojagear.com/content 4 Michael Lim 5 A Brief History of Climbing Prior to the evolution of modern rock climbing, the most daring ambitions revolved around peak-bagging in alpine terrain. The concept of climbing a rock face, not necessarily reaching the top of the mountain, was a foreign concept that seemed trivial by comparison. However, by the late 1800s, rock climbing began to evolve into its very own sport. There are 3 areas credited as the birthplace of rock climbing: 1.
    [Show full text]
  • How Not to Train Top 5 Moderate Desert Spires
    THE PUSH AN EXCERPT FROM TOMMY CALDWELL’S NEW MEMOIR FIRST THE RED FEMALE RIVER GORGE’S SECRET 5.15 PAST HAYES MAKES HISTORY TECH TIPS TRAIN ENDURANCE EAT SMARTER, SEND HARDER LOWER IN TOP 5 MODERATE GUIDE MODE DESERT SPIRES HOW NOT TO TRAIN (HINT: IT’S EASIER THAN YOU THINK) Fabian Buhl Fabian © 2017 adidas AG Andreas Steindl Andreas OUTPERFORM THE WIND The TERREX AGRAVIC ALPHA HOODED SHIELD jacket protects you from the wind while keeping your body at the optimal temperature. Whether you perform high pulse or static movements, always stay in your most comfortable zone while pushing your limits further. Andrew Taylor Andrew adidasoutdoor.com all new features EASY OPEN/CLOSE 1 LEAK-PROOF CAP LEAK-PROOF 2 ON/OFF LEVER Water when you want it, none when you don’t. 20% MORE 3 WATER PER SIP Faster water flow powers longer adventures. ERGONOMIC 4 HANDLE Perfect for one-hand filling. HOW TO FIX SOMETHING THAT ISN’T THE LEAST BIT BROKEN. Why upgrade to a new camelbak crux when an old CamelBak Reservoir will last forever? Because we never stop innovating. Our new Crux reservoir delivers 20% more water with every sip in a pack loaded with the latest in hydration technology. camelbak.com CONTENTS 8 FLASH 22 THE APPROACH 17 EDITOR’S NOTE 20 OFF THE WALL Latino Outdoors is engaging the Lati- no community in outdoor recreation. 21 UNBELAYVABLE THE CLIMB 22 TALK OF THE CRAG Climbers, federal agencies, and locals are working to preserve Joe’s Valley. 24 PORTRAIT Kris Hampton’s rise from a rough past to coaching stardom.
    [Show full text]
  • Climb 2018 Anne Skidmore | Chris Sharma, Sterling Team Athlete
    climb 2018 Anne Skidmore | Chris Sharma, Sterling Team Athlete SterlingRope.com/team/68-chris-sharma Sterling Climb 2018 2 How to Choose a Dynamic Rope 4 Dynamic Ropes 4 NEW DeltaDry™ Treatment 5 Fusion™ Series 6 Evolution™ Series 8 Marathon™ Series 10 Canyon Ropes 11 Abrasion Testing 11 Canyon Gear 12 Static Ropes 12 Choosing a Static Rope 13 WorkPro™ Series 14 SuperStatic2™ Series 15 HTP™ Series 16 Gym Ropes 17 Gym Holds 18 Cordage 18 Sewn Cords 20 Accessory and GloCords™ 21 Tag Lines, High-Tenacity and Packaged Cords 22 Webbing 22 Bulk Webbing 23 Sewn Webbing 24 Hardware 24 Pulleys 25 Carabiners 26 Systems 26 AZTEK™ Elite 26 Pocket Hauler™ 27 Pico™ Crevasse Rescue Kit 27 How to Build a Snow Anchor 28 Accessories and Clothing 28 Clothing 29 Rope Care and Bags 30 Technical Specs COVER Sonnie Trotter | Alex Megos, Sterling Team Athlete, on the first ascent of Fightclub (5.15b) at Ravens Crag, near Banff, Canada —SterlingRope.com/team/113-alex-megos Jacopo Larcher | Barbara Zangrl, Sterling Team Athlete in Siurana, Spain — SterlingRope.com/team/123-barbara-zangerl Keith Ladzinski | Mike Libecki, Sterling Team Athlete, on the first ascent of Bertha’s Tower, Queen Maud Land, Antarctica — SterlingRope.com/team/139-mike-libecki Carolyn Brodsky Founder & CEO Twenty-five years is a long time and we have seen a lot of change since we started in November, 1992. There were no smartphones, no Google search, faxes were just becoming the norm, and phone calls and personal visits were how you kept in touch with customers and friends.
    [Show full text]
  • Chris Sharma
    # 02+0304|2013|2013 02 Meine Finca, mein Hund, mein Projekt Text: Natalie Ehrenzweig Fotos: Rainer Eder Schon lange verfolgt Klet- 03 terfotograf Rainer Eder die Karriere von Chris Sharma. 2011 und 2012 besuchte er den Ausnahmekletterer und seine Freundin Daila Ojeda mehrmals in Spanien. Dabei 01 hatte er Gelegenheit, die beiden besser kennenzu- lernen – und eifrig auf den Auslöser zu drücken. und 50 Häuser, ein Restaurant mit Bar, ein kleiner Stausee – für durchreisende Touristen ist Sant Llo- 01 Projektarbeiter Chris Sharma bei renç de Montgai kaum mehr als ein malerisches Kaff irgendwo im Nirgendwo. Der kleine Ort nördlich von 04 einem Versuch in der zu diesem Zeitpunkt RLleida am Fuß der Pyrenäen ist keine ganz große Attraktion. noch unbegangenen Außer man klettert. Wie Chris Sharma. Oder Daila Ojeda. Dann La Dura Dura. 02 Was liegt Sant Llorenç de Montgai plötzlich im Zentrum der Welt. für ein Paar! Daila Denn ringsum versammeln sich Wände mit klingenden Namen und Chris zuhause. wie Oliana oder Santa Linya. Felsen, an denen in den letzten Jah- 03 Auch am Fels in aller Ruhe unterwegs: ren Klettergeschichte geschrieben wurde, zu denen Kletterer aus Daila Ojeda in Oliana. aller Welt anreisen, um ein bisschen von dem magischen, nord- 04 Ein Lieblingsort spanischen Sportkletterflair zu erspüren, um einmal das Klettern des starken Duos: Vom „À muerte!“ zu erleben. Aussichtspunkt bei Seit 2007, als sie sich bei einem Petzl Roc Trip in der Nähe von Lleida hat man das fel- Millau in Südfrankreich kennengelernt haben, wohnen Daila und sige Pyrenäen-Vorland im Blick. Chris zusammen in einer Finca bei Sant Llorrenç.
    [Show full text]
  • 10 Melloblocco®10
    10 MELLOBLOCCO ®10 10 years of Melloblocco ABOUT MELLOBLOCCO ® “Melloblocco ®, international boulder meeting”, is the largest outdoor bouldering meeting in the world. The idea was born in 2003 and in 2004 its first edition was organized by the Lombardy Mountain Guides, , President Ettore Togni and promoters Nicolò Berzi e Michele Comi, then by the Valmasino Municipality, Major Ezio Palleni, and recently by the Valmasino Tourist Association, President Giacomo Sertori. The meeting takes place on the many boulders scattered in Val di Mello and Val Masino (in the province of Sondrio, in Northern Italy), in a beautiful natural scene, only 140 km north of Milan. Every year new areas are added, where the participants feel the unique emotions of bouldering with the best world specialists, trying together to solve boulder problems of all difficulties. In order to motivate the strongest male and female athletes, a bunch of new problems are selected every year – based on their beauty and high or extreme difficulty, each associated to a money prize which is shared by the few who send the problem. All participants who have enrolled in the Melloblocco ® may try to send the money-winning boulders and all of them may win pieces of technical gear or clothing offered by the sponsoring companies during the event closing ceremony. During Melloblocco ® concerts, exhibitions parties and video shows are a great opportunity for climbers to share their passion and chill-out. The media, too, take their opportunity to take pictures, share views and to interview the strongest boulder specialist in the world. SOME FIGURES ON MELLOBLOCCO ® Melloblocco ® takes place every year during the first week-end of May.
    [Show full text]
  • Julbouldering I Spanien Här Är
    SVENSKA KLÄTTERFÖRBUNDET #132 december 2006 Pris: 50 sek. JULBOULDERINGJULBOULDERING II SPANIENSPANIEN här är det julafton året om MAssOR AV SNÖ OCH IS! SEVEN SUmmITS Litledal, Lärdal, Romsdalen, Stora Sjöfallet... Strapatser på sju berg ledaren SNÖ OCH IS När dagarna blir mörkare, kortare och kallare är det gott att krypa ner under en filt och försvinna in i lite skön läs- SUM ning. Det kan du med detta nummer av Bergsport. Vis- SUM serligen är det många av de iskalla artiklarna som får det att bita av köld i kinderna bara man läser om äventyren folk har varit iväg på och nu delar med sig av. Fredrik Eliasson, Patrik Jacobsson och Kasper Kotake trotsade The New snöovädret på Hårstadnebba och Martin Letzter och Olof Sundström är som bekant ute på Seven Generation Summits-uppdrag. Vill du testa isklättring utan att förfrysa så går naturligtvis det också. Tro´t Belay eller ej, men då är Skåne landskapet du skall Descender Device sikta på! Snart är det som bekant jul. Som klättrare är det aldrig svårt att få ihop en önskelista, men vi kunde inte låta bli att ge lite justa julklappstips, kolla in sidan 32. Juletider är vanligtvis bjällerklang. Själv öns- kar jag mig en klingande vindmobil gjord av diverse klätterpryttlar som ljuder så där vackert som bara klättergrejer kan. Tänk vad underbart att höra ljudet av ”en solig härlig klätterdag” när man vaknar på morgonen! Ha nu en skön, vit och isig vinter! God jul, önskar redaktör Eva Bergsport utges av Svenska Klätterförbundet, SKF Adress: Bergsport, Stenvinkelsgatan 8, 302 36 Halmstad Telefon:
    [Show full text]