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Middle East 9 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Middle East Turkey p413 Syria p405 Iran Israel & the Iraq p136 Lebanon p190 Palestinian p354 Territories p199 Jordan p285 Egypt p52 Anthony Ham, Paul Clammer, Orlando Crowcroft, Mark Elliott, Anita Isalska, Jessica Lee, Virginia Maxwell, Simon Richmond, Daniel Robinson, Anthony Sattin, Dan Savery Raz, Andy Symington, Jenny Walker, Steve Waters PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to the EGYPT . 52 Kandovan . 153 Middle East . 6. Cairo . 53 Qazvin . 153 Middle East Map . 8 Saqqara, Memphis Alamut Valley . 155 The Middle East’s & Dahshur . 77 Central Iran . 156 Top 21 . .10 Mediterranean Coast . 80 Kashan . 156 Need to Know . 20 Alexandria . .80 Esfahan . 158 What’s New . 22 Nile Valley . 86 Yazd . 164 If You Like . 23 Luxor . 86 Shiraz . 170 Month by Month . .27 Esna . 100 Persepolis . 175 Edfu . 101 Itineraries . .31 Naqsh-e Rostam & Kom Ombo . 101 Naqsh-e Rajab . 177 Visas & Border Crossings . 38 Aswan . 101 Pasargadae . 177 Northeastern Iran . 178 Activities . 42 Philae (Agilika Island) . .106 High Dam . 106 Mashhad . 178 Travel with Children . .47 Abu Simbel . 106 Understand Iran . .181 Countries at a Glance . 49 Western Oases . 107 Survival Guide . 185 Al Kharga Oasis . 107 LKPRO/SHUTTERSTOCK © LKPRO/SHUTTERSTOCK Dakhla Oasis . 108 IRAQ . 190 Bahariya Oasis . 110 Iraq Explained . .191 Siwa Oasis . 111 History . 192 Red Sea Coast . .113 People & Society . 197 El Gouna . 113 Further Information . 198 Hurghada . 114 Marsa Alam . 116 ISRAEL & THE South Sinai . .117 PALESTINIAN Ras Mohammed TERRITORIES . 199 National Park . 117. Jerusalem . 201 JERASH RUINS (P301), Sharm el-Sheikh . 117 JORDAN Mediterranean Coast . 221 Dahab . 121 Tel Aviv-Jaffa (Yafo) . 221 St Katherine KYLIE NICHOLSON/SHUTTERSTOCK © NICHOLSON/SHUTTERSTOCK KYLIE Protectorate . 125 Caesarea . 231 Nuweiba . 125 Haifa . 231 Taba . 128 Akko . .236 Understand Egypt . 129 Lower Galilee & Sea of Galilee . 238 Survival Guide . .131 Nazareth . .238 Tiberias . .240 IRAN . 136 Sea of Galilee . 242 Tehran . 137 Beit She’an . 243 Western Iran . 149 Upper Galilee & Tabriz . 149 Golan Heights . 244 ST KATHERINE’S MONASTERY (P125), EGYPT Contents INSPIRED BY MAPS/SHUTTERSTOCK © MAPS/SHUTTERSTOCK BY INSPIRED MASJED-E JAMEH (P165), YAZD, IRAN Tsfat (Safed) . .244 JORDAN . 285 Madaba & the King’s Highway . 313 Golan Heights . 247 Amman . 288 Madaba . 313 Dead Sea . 249 Jerash & the North . .300 Mt Nebo . 316 Ein Gedi . .249 Jerash . 301 Machaerus (Mukawir) . 316 Masada . 250 Ajloun . .304 Karak . 317 Ein Bokek . 251 Ajloun Forest Reserve . .305 Tafila . 318 The Negev . 251 Irbid . .306 Dana Biosphere Mitzpe Ramon . 251 Umm Qais (Gadara) . 306 Reserve . 318 Eilat . 252 Dead Sea Shobak . 320 & the West . 307 West Bank . 256 Petra & the South . 320 Ramallah . .256 Bethany-Beyond- the-Jordan Petra & Wadi Musa . 320 Jericho & Around . 259 (Al-Maghtas) . 307 Wadi Rum . .333 Bethlehem . 261 Dead Sea . .308 Aqaba . 337 Nablus . .264 Mujib Biosphere Understand Jordan . 343 Jenin . 265 Reserve . 310 Survival Guide . 347 Gaza Strip . 266 Azraq & the East . 310 Understand Israel & LEBANON . 354 the Palestinian Hallabat . 310 Beirut . 356 Territories . 267 Azraq . 311 Central Lebanon . 372 Survival Guide . 275 Around Azraq . 312 Jeita Grotto . 372 ON THE ROAD Byblos (Jbail) . 373 SYRIA . 405 Bergama (Pergamum) . 443 North Lebanon . 375 Syria Explained . 406 İzmır . .444 Batroun . 375 History . 407 Selçuk . .446 Tripoli (Trablous) . 377 People & Society . 410 Ephesus . .449 The Qadisha Valley . 380 Further Information . 412 Kuşadası . 451 South Lebanon . 382 Pamukkale . 452 Sidon (Saida) . .382 TURKEY . 413 Bodrum Town . .453 Tyre (Sour) . .385 İstanbul . 416 Marmaris . 456 Chouf Mountains . 387 Aegean Coast . 436 Mediterranean Deir Al Qamar . .388 Çanakkale . .436 Coast . 458 Bekaa Valley . 389 Troy . .440 Fethiye . .458 Baalbek . .390 Eceabat . .440 Patara . 460 Understand Lebanon . 392 Gallipoli Peninsula . 441 Kalkan . 461 Survival Guide . 401 Bursa . .442 Kaş . 461 ANTON BELO/SHUTTERSTOCK © BELO/SHUTTERSTOCK ANTON S-F/SHUTTERSTOCK © S-F/SHUTTERSTOCK GIZA (P60), EGYPT COZY NOOK/SHUTTERSTOCK © NOOK/SHUTTERSTOCK COZY DEAD SEA (P308), CAPPADOCIA (P475), JORDAN TURKEY Contents UNDERSTAND Olympos & Çıralı . .463 The Middle East Antalya . 463 Today . 494 Side . 467 History . 496 Alanya . .468 Religion . 526 Central Anatolia . 469 Architecture . .531 Ankara . .469 Safranbolu . 472 Middle Eastern Cuisine . 536 Konya . 473 The Arts . 543 Cappadocia . 475 Göreme . 476 Landscape & Environment . 552 Avanos . 478 Ürgüp . 478 Kayseri . 479 Black Sea Coast & Northeastern Anatolia . .480 SURVIVAL Trabzon . .480 GUIDE Erzurum . 482 Kars . .484 Traveller Etiquette . 558 Doğubayazıt . .485 Safe Travel . 560 Understand Turkey . 486 Women Travellers . 562 Survival Guide . 488 Directory A–Z . 564 Transport . 571 Health . 577 Language . 582 Index . 594 Map Legend . 605 SPECIAL FEATURES The Pyramids of Giza . 62 Petra . 322 Luxor’s West Bank . 92 Aya Sofya . 418 St Katherine’s Topkapı Palace . 424 Monastery . 126 Temple Mount/ Al Haram Ash Sharif . 210 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 31 Itineraries É É #_ AMMAN MEDITERRANEAN Jerusalem •# SEA É É Dead •# Sea ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN JORDAN TERRITORIES É É #_ CAIRO •# Petra Sinai Peninsula Aqaba É Wadi Rum •# •# Gulf of Suez Nuweiba •# EGYPT Mt Sinai (Gebel Musa) R É É SAUDI ARABIA É •# Dahab 2 WEEKS Amman to Cairo This journey represents a shorter version of the old İstanbul-to-Cairo traveller favourite (no longer possible because of the war in Syria) and includes some of the Middle East’s premier attractions. Your journey starts in Amman, a cosmopolitan city with Roman ruins and brilliant restaurants. After visit to the Dead Sea (an easy day trip from the capital), detour to Jerusalem, the Middle East’s spiritual heart. Returning to Jordan, spend some time exploring fabulous Petra, the Middle East’s most beguiling ancient city. Further south, Petra’s rival to the title of Jordan’s most spectacular site is Wadi Rum, a soulful red- hued desert landscape that rewards those who spend a couple of days exploring. From here, leave Jordan behind and cross the Red Sea at Aqaba to Nuweiba in Egypt. Where you go from here depends on the prevailing security situation, with much of the Sinai Peninsula considered risky at the time of research. Assuming all is well, continue on from Nuweiba to Dahab, for Red Sea snorkelling and an excursion to catch sunrise from atop Mt Sinai. From Dahab (or from Nuweiba if security is uncertain) make for clamor- ous, attraction-rich Cairo. 32 BRAZEN SERPENT MONUMENT SERPENT BRAZEN PLAN YOUR TRIP ATOP MT NEBO BY ITALIAN ARTIST GIOVANNI FANTONI; JORDAN PIX/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES PIX/GETTY JORDAN FANTONI; GIOVANNI ARTIST ITALIAN BY NEBO MT ATOP IT I NERAR I ES JAVIER CRESPO/SHUTTERSTOCK © CRESPO/SHUTTERSTOCK JAVIER Above: Bronze sculpture at Memorial Viewpoint (p316), Mt Nebo, Jordan Left: Grotto of the Nativity (p261), Bethlehem, Israel & the Palestinian Territories 33 Akko •# Caesarea •# SYRIA Bethany-Beyond- É É the-Jordan •#Jerash É •# É Tel Aviv É PLAN YOUR TRIP Jericho É #_AMMAN •# MEDITERRANEAN É É •# •# ÉRMt Nebo Jerusalem É SEA •#Madaba •# Dead É É Sea Bethlehem É SAUDI ARABIA •# Karak ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES Dana IT ÷# Biosphere JORDAN •# I Negev Reserve NERAR Desert EGYPT É I •#Petra ES Gulf of Suez Aqaba •#Wadi Rum •# É 3 WEEKS The Middle East’s Heartland Welcome to the Middle Eastern heartland for a trip through the best that Jordan and Israel and the Palestinian Territories have to offer. Although distances can be small, there’s a lot to pack in. Most of this trip is best accomplished using public transport. Amman may lack the cachet of other Middle Eastern cities, but most travellers end up staying longer than planned. From here, it’s easy to make side trips to many of Jordan’s must-see destinations; the echoes of Moses at Mt Nebo and the mosaics of Madaba deserve your time. When you’re ready to move on, head to Jerash, a quiet yet rewarding ancient site with a wonderful colonnaded way running through its heart. Travelling south, Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan, the place where Christ was baptised, resonates strongly with pilgrims, while floating in the buoyant waters of the Dead Sea is a signature Middle Eastern experience. Across the Jordan River, roiling Jerusalem is the starting point of so much Middle Eastern history. From Jerusalem, make for the biblical towns of Bethlehem and Jericho. In Israel’s north, timeless Akko and the world-class ruins of Caesarea are worth as much time as you can give them. On your way back, don’t miss Tel Aviv, a lively place to let your hair down and discover the hedonistic side of Israeli life. Its antithesis, the Negev desert, is a wilderness area that you simply don’t expect to find in this ever-crowded corner of the earth. Crossing back into Jordan, the Crusader castle of Karak and the spectacular scenery of Dana Biosphere Reserve shouldn’t be missed, while Petra is an astonishing place, where reality outstrips even the most lofty expectations. If time allows, spend at least a couple of days here, so you can savour the main tombs as well as visit the site’s more out- lying areas. The same applies to Wadi Rum – you could get a taste of this soulful place in a day, but you’ll gain a deeper understanding of its gravitas if you sleep out under the stars for at least one night. The laid-back Red Sea port of Aqaba, with world-class div- ing and snorkelling, provides the perfect place to rest at journey’s end. 34 RUSSIA KAZAKHSTAN Black Sea GEORGIA İstanbul Mt Ararat •# (5137m) R TURKMENISTAN É AZERBAIJAN ANKARA ÉARMENIA PLAN YOUR TRIP Erzurum #_ •# Caspian É Sea Nemrut Dağı É TURKEY É •# (2150m) •# Tabriz Konya •# Cappadocia R É #_ TEHRAN CYPRUS SYRIA IT Mediterranean Sea LEBANON I •# Yazd NERAR ISRAEL & THE IRAQ Esfahan •# É PALESTINIAN É Kerman TERRITORIES Persepolis •# JORDAN •# I ES •# Shiraz SAUDI ARABIA EGYPT 4 WEEKS Modern Turkey, Ancient Persia From marvellous İstanbul to the fascinating cities of central Iran, this itinerary takes you from the Middle East’s most Western-oriented corner to its least.
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