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Made in Italy': Self and Place in Late-Twentieth Century Travel Writing

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Made in Italy': Self and Place in Late-Twentieth Century Travel Writing Relocation Narratives 'Made in Italy': Self and Place in Late-Twentieth Century Travel Writing Lynn Ann Mastellotto PhD University of East Anglia School of Literature, Drama and Creative Writing August 2013 2 Abstract At the intersection of life writing and travel writing, relocation narratives form a distinct subgenre of contemporary travel memoirs concerned with the inter-subjective and intra-subjective experiences of travellers who become settlers in foreign locales. Lured by the dream of the ‘good life’ abroad, transnational writers detail their post-relocation experiences in autobiographical accounts that seek to educate and entertain global readers about what it means to accommodate to a new life in a new land. This study examines the entwined processes of identity (re)formation and place attachment represented in recent relocation trilogies set in Italy, highlighting the tension between reality and illusion in the pursuit of la dolce vita in the adopted homeland. Focusing on Frances Mayes’s popular Tuscan texts, Annie Hawes’s Ligurian trilogy, and Tim Parks’s memoirs set in Verona, the study addresses how their accommodation over a period of long-term foreign residency is represented in multipart nonfiction accounts. Are their memoirs of ‘becoming Italian’ merely an exercise in social distinction that appropriates Italian ‘authenticity’ and packages it for global tastes? Or does dwelling in cultural difference over time lead to the development of an intercultural competence that is one aspect of an engaged form of cosmopolitanism? A close reading of the language, stylistics, and form of relocation narratives reveals a tension between colonial and cosmopolitan orientations as strategies for cultural representation. By re-positioning themselves across geographic, conceptual, and generic boundaries, relocation writers are mapping out new possibilities for identity-making through new patterns of home-making within contemporary transnational lifestyles. Their deep immersion in place enables the production of situated readings of Italy, Italians and Italianness that avoid essentialising otherness through the recognition of dialogical subjectivities. Keywords: travel writing; autobiography/memoir; lifestyle migration; cosmopolitanism; identity formation. 3 Contents Abstract ................................................................................................................................................ 2 Preface and Acknowledgments ............................................................................................................ 4 Epigraph ............................................................................................................................................... 6 Introduction .......................................................................................................................................... 7 Chapter 1 – Relocation Narratives ‘Made in Italy’ ............................................................................ 16 1.1 Relocation Narratives ............................................................................................................... 16 1.2 Lifestyle migrants in search of the good life ............................................................................ 28 1.3 Everyday life in Italy ................................................................................................................ 34 1.4 Migrating sensibilities: colonial and cosmopolitan visions ..................................................... 39 Conclusion – local/global dynamics .................................................................................................. 45 Chapter 2 – Frances Mayes’s Tuscan Idyll ........................................................................................ 49 Introduction .................................................................................................................................... 49 2.1 Confrontation – the Tuscan dream ........................................................................................... 51 2.2 Negotiation – Italians, Tuscans and others .............................................................................. 58 2.3 Accommodation – everyday life .............................................................................................. 74 Conclusion – too much Tuscan sun? ............................................................................................. 80 Chapter 3 – Annie Hawes’s Dialogical Depictions ........................................................................... 84 Introduction .................................................................................................................................... 84 3.1 Confrontation – Italy through touristic eyes ............................................................................ 87 3.2 Negotiation – learning the lay of the land ................................................................................ 98 3.3 Accommodation – a cosmopolitan consciousness ................................................................. 108 Conclusion ................................................................................................................................... 115 Chapter 4 – Tim Parks’s ‘Ironic Anthropology’ .............................................................................. 118 Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 118 4.1 Confrontation – Italian neighbours ........................................................................................ 121 4.2 Negotiation – Italian lessons .................................................................................................. 131 4.3 Accommodation – community and conviviality .................................................................... 148 Conclusion ................................................................................................................................... 158 Conclusion ....................................................................................................................................... 161 Bibliography ..................................................................................................................................... 170 4 Preface and Acknowledgements This project began in an airport bookshop in 2003 when I picked up a copy of Annie Hawes’s Extra Virgin to enjoy a few hours of ‘light reading’ while awaiting a flight connection. I remember noticing how many other similar titles lined the shelves in the travel & holiday section, and I later became curious about the classification of these books, which were not travelogues or guide books per se, but relocation stories by travellers who had decided to stay put in foreign locales. We were spending a sabbatical year in Italy and I wanted to read something for the “non-tourist” – for someone not just passing through place – by someone with local knowledge. Little did I know then that we would stay in Italy or that my original curiosity would lead to doctoral research on these works. Sometimes, I think, you write the book you need to read: ten years on, this is the result. I wish to thank Clive Scott who trusted my initial hunch and guided me through the first phase of my research at UEA. His support was unequivocal, especially in encouraging me to fill the void of secondary literature on this topic. A doctorate is a long journey, one that overlaps with and is sometimes overtaken by other life journeys; he was a most patient and unflagging guide. My heartfelt thanks to Stephen Benson who took over the supervisory baton and helped me to contain and shape the interdisciplinary sources that fed this project whilst not losing sight of its literary dimension. His generous criticism and support have made this PhD a very humanising experience, and it has been a great pleasure to build a dialogue with him over the years. I also wish to thank Giles Foden who encouraged me to write with conviction from a place of deep knowing, avoiding abstraction and breathing space into my writing. I have been very fortunate to find in UEA a community that has challenged and nurtured me over time, both up close and from afar. As a transplanted Canadian living in Italy and studying in the UK, mobility and place-attachment are much more than academic interests, and UEA has been a wonderful port of call. The feedback received from my viva examiners, Dr. Petra Rau of UEA and Prof. Tim Youngs of NTU, was crucial in helping me ground and refine my arguments. As far as any examination can be called ‘pleasurable’, my viva experience truly was, and I thank them most sincerely for their professionalism and generous mentoring spirit. 5 A final note of thanks goes to family and close friends who have supported my intellectual explorations and other adventures over the years. My very special thanks go to Vincent and Leonardo Della Sala – my two main travelling companions and most ardent supporters – for the sense of discovery and of homecoming they provide me each day. This work is a result of routes and roots we three have explored together, and to them I dedicate this project. 6 Epigraph “Everything went wrong all the time [in Italy], but somehow it didn’t matter, while in other countries even if everything went perfectly, life was still a misery.” Michael Dibdin, End Games “Italy is not a country for beginners.” Tim Parks,
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