TRAVEL FT Nature’s roiling roller-coaster Rafting on the Bay of Fundy’s is a wild adventure not for the faint of heart

by Lynn Haddrall

e scan the horizon as our inflatable boat floats gently on the Shubenacadie WRiver in . In the distance, we spot a white line, barely visible. It draws ever closer, gaining froth and intensity as it nears. We grip the sides of our raft and brace for impact, hearts beginning to race. This is

You’ll want to hang on tight when rafting on the tidal bore on the Shubenacadie River in Nova Scotia. And don’t open your mouth or you’ll swallow sea water! PHOTOGRAPHY • RIVER RUNNERS PHOTOGRAPHY • TYLER JOHNSTON

146 GRAND MAY I JUNE 2016 the tidal bore, oddly named. It is as far from Van de Vrie grew up on the river and boring as you can get. always enjoyed playing on the water. He Our family has explored many sights on has a forestry background and prefers life ’s East Coast during treks to the outdoors. His business draws customers family cottage. We’re accustomed to the from around the world, including wedding ebb and flow of tides and typically check parties and corporate groups. He jokes that tide times in the local newspaper to plan Australia must have had an airline seat sale our day. But we had not experienced the a few years ago when Australians suddenly tidal bore, a Bay of Fundy phenomenon showed up in droves. where twice a day, the incoming ocean tide “Eighty per cent of the customers are reverses the river flow. Freshwater mixes looking for bigger waves, six feet and up,” with saltwater. says van de Vrie. “But families with younger “You have this very long, narrow bay children might choose smaller waves. We and then you have the global ocean recommend children be six or older. Kids tides. They work very much in sympathy are pretty neat. Adults are more timid than together, in the sense that the Atlantic a lot of kids. Kids just want to go, go, go.” Ocean is forcing this tide back and forth The company uses Zodiak inflatable and it’s perfectly in harmony with the self-bailing boats with 60-horsepower shape of the bay,” explains David Barclay, engines. Van de Vrie likes the Zodiac’s an assistant professor of oceanography at quality construction. “They are overen- Dalhousie University. gineered. They just last and are strong. Imagine the Bay of Fundy as someone They have to be strong for the abuse that sitting on a swing. The they have to take.” is the person pushing the swing. “They Safety is a priority. Everyone gets a safety are perfectly in time. And that’s how you orientation before going to the river. get what might be the biggest tide in the Guides receive a month of training on world,” Barclay says. the water and must have their CPR and “It’s sort of like ringing a bell and you get first aid certifications. As we lined up for a particular sound. If you hit a pie plate, life jackets (full-body insulated suits are it’s not quite as nice. The Bay of Fundy just also available), we asked what happens if gets rung by the Atlantic Ocean in such a someone falls overboard. way that it has a very harmonic action.” About once a week someone falls from The moon and sun drive this phenom- a boat, van de Vrie says, but often it’s enon through gravity, the highest tides on purpose. Guides are prepared either occurring when a full moon aligns perfectly way. The passenger’s boat shuts down Tri-City Cycle & Sport with the sun. and retrieves the person. A spare boat 351 Weber St. N, Waterloo We chose a hot day in July to sample this follows the group. If anyone wants off 519-884-6410 marvel of nature. With a full moon, waves their boat at any time, they can transfer were expected to range from one to three- to the safety boat. www.tricitycycle.ca plus metres. River Runners, about one hour and 20 Locals recommended River Runners minutes from Halifax, offers full- and Rafting as a good place to observe or ride half-day trips, assigning them names based the bore. It recently celebrated 20 years on the height of expected waves — Super VISIT SUZUKI.CA FOR DETAILS! in business near the village of Maitland, Wild Ride (one to three-plus metres), Fast between Wolfville and Truro. Brian van and Fun (one to two-plus metres) and Above: Tourists get ready to ride the tidal bore on the Shubenacadie River in Nova Scotia. MSRP listed is subject to change without notice. Dealer is not obligated to sell product at MSRP. Dealer may sell for de Vrie and his wife, Kim, started it. The Action for All (half to one and half metres). less than the Manufacture Suggested Retail Price. For full details visit www.suzuki.ca or contact your local authorized Visitors are warned to wear old clothes, since the river’s reddish mud tends to stain. Suzuki dealer. Warranty and optional SPP warranty coverage has no dollar value and cannot be exchanged or resold for business has grown substantially since they Prices range from $60 to $90 per person. any monetary value. Model may not be exactly as shown. Quantity and colours are subject to availability. Specifications, PHOTOGRAPHY • TYLER JOHNSTON product features and colours are subject to change without notice. Read your owner's manual carefully and remember launched with just two boats. We opt for the Super Wild Ride. The to observe all safety regulations. See your participating Authorized Suzuki dealer for availability and complete details. Suzuki. A way of Life!

148 GRAND MAY I JUNE 2016 MAY I JUNE 2016 GRAND 149 If You Go: journey starts calmly as you board the use the other hand to hold the camera on by spotting wildlife such as bear or deer if people can figure out how to capture it • July and August are the busiest times. motor-powered Zodiak. The leading edge PRINCE EDWARD my head. It was a great experience that I crossing the river. We saw some American without damaging the environment. Weekends fill up first. It’s good to book ISLAND of the wave reaches the boat and at first you Moncton will never forget and it came with a great bald eagles. Barclay, who has been working at in advance. ride it like a surfboard. The ride intensifies adrenalin rush.” Be prepared to leave the river with your Dalhousie for about a year, says there are • If you laugh or scream with your mouth as guides manoeuvre the boats back and Declan was underwhelmed when he first clothes stained red by the clay soil. We were a dozen people there working on Bay of wide open, be prepared to swallow a lot of saltwater. forth, over and through the waves. You are Saint John Shubenacadie spotted the thin white line on the horizon. warned to wear old clothes that could be Fundy projects. buffeted by whirlpools and cross currents. Y River Runners He soon changed his mind. discarded. We bought cheap white T-shirts “The bore only comes twice a day, but • Wear old clothes and prepare to see them stained red. Bring towels, shower supplies and Our eight-person boat had an American Y OF FUND NOVA SCOTIA “I was thinking to myself how anti- for the boys, who gained an authentic the tide is flowing for the rest of the day BA couple, two British friends and our family climactic it seemed, but I wasn’t really souvenir that has retained the river’s at huge speeds so there is a huge potential a change of clothes. of four. Most of us urged our guide to hit as prepared for the result of this tiny little mud-red shade. to capture that energy,” he said. “It makes • Old sneakers or water shoes work best. Flip- many big waves as possible. There was one line. Before I knew it, we were being After the ride, I was ready for a hot sense for lots of small communities in Nova flops are a bad idea. woman on the boat who looked like she thrown from wave to wave, tossed back shower. You can take one right at River Scotia to be getting their power from their • Leave valuables like jewelry and phones behind. • Tie down anything that could be lost, such would rather be anywhere else. She hung in and forth violently with almost no Runners. Also waiting for you — cookies doorstep, rather than from far away. It’s as hats and sunglasses. gamely to the end. breathing time,” Declan said. and hot chocolate. certainly a hot topic.” • Several companies offer tidal bore rides. You It’s definitely not for the faint of heart. ride on video. “The boat would go over the crest of one This was a fun family outing. We met The Bay of Fundy is one of the few places will find contact information for them at My teenaged son, Declan, and his friend, “Shooting the video was a challenge massive wave, only to be looking at another people from other countries. We rode a in the world where you can experience the novascotia.com. River Runners can be Tyler Johnston, called dibs on front spots because I had to duct tape the GoPro to my even bigger wave next in line. It was really wet roller-coaster and experienced powerful tidal bore. Barclay is the ocean reached at riverrunnersns.com or call where the bow crashes through the waves. hat and then tie the hat to my life-jacket,” exciting, to say the least. The experience the incredible power of nature. Some day, expert, so I asked him — have you ever 1-800-856-5061. Adults did not jockey for those prime Tyler said. “Going over the giant waves was was one I would recommend, especially for that power may be harnessed for more than taken a ride on it? • Watch a video of our family ride on YouTube. positions, happy to sit further back. Tyler definitely the hardest part because I had thrill-seekers.” tourists. The tremendous Bay of Fundy “I haven’t done it yet. Can you believe it?” Search for “Tyler Johnston’s Tidal Bore.” strapped a GoPro to his head to capture the to hold onto the raft with one hand and Sometimes riders get an added treat tide could power homes and businesses, he said, laughing. “But I have to do it.”

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