Fall 2017 Wine Journal
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THE AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY FALL 2017 Dr. Konstantin Frank: A Retrospective Celebrating the Wines of Lugana The Big Six of Grapes Everything’s Kosher at Herzog pH - The Sequel British Bubbles AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : FALL : 2017 | 1 Classic Tastevins with Chain #2613 #7702 Classic Tastevins with Ribbon #2614 Made in Spain Deluxe Essence Collection #6168 Made in Spain ElectroParagon™ #4012 Wine Yoke # 8044 Made in Australia Wine Starter Set, 5 Pieces #7585 Pulltaps® #5100 Made in Spain Many congurations available. Comes in stained or natural nish. 560 Work Street, Salinas, Ca 93901 U.S.A Tel: 831.422.4000 800.423.5855(USA) Fax 831.422.7000 Email: [email protected] www.franmara.com 2 | WINE JOURNAL : FALL : 2017 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG features 4 | Jim Rink 18 | George Medovoy Editor’s Note Tasteful Elegance at Herzog Wine Cellars in California During the week of December 3, 1967, the number one Billboard single hit song About 60 miles north of Los Angeles lies 6 was Daydream Believer by the Monkees. the city of Oxnard, once a sleepy little Although sleepy Jean and homecoming farm town, where today sprawling fields of queens have little to do with the AWS, the strawberries and artichokes compete with date and sentiment of the title meshed stylish new homes and shopping malls. perfectly with the inaugural meeting of a select group of wine enthusiasts and 25 | Kristine Austin Dr. Konstantin Frank, who first proposed the formation of the Society 50 years ago. pH — The Sequel Now where were we… In the last issue 6 | Ed Van Dyne of the Journal, we learned that pH is a measure of hydrogen ions (H+) and Dr. Konstantin Frank: A Retrospective hydroxide ions (OH-) and the respective amounts of these ions determines if the 13 Genius, or crazy man on the hill? Gruff, bluff pH reading is to be considered either and blunt, or kind and hospitable? Visionary acidic, neutral or basic. scientist, or intransigent troublemaker? 28 | Eric Miller 13 | Jim Rink British Bubbles Preserving and Promoting for 50 Years: When our oldest son, who lives in London, The Consortium for the Protection of married a dozen years ago he knew I loved the Lugana Krug Champagne and served it. About the same time that a group of 30 | Ellen Landis, CS, CSW kindred spirits gathered in Hammondsport, 16 N.Y. to form a fledgling wine society, a 21 Wines to Watch smaller — but no less dedicated — group In her continuing column, Ellen Landis an ocean away that included Prof. Michele selects 21 wines for you to enjoy with any Vescia and the Ministry of Agriculture, had occasion or celebration. the idea of establishing a wine region in Italy that would come to be associated 32 | Jim Rink with Lugana. New or Noteworthy The crafty up-cycling of wine corks can be 16 | Michael Schafer, CSW found all over Pinterest and Etsy. But one The Big Six of Grapes: A Crash Course artist in Michigan has fully elevated the Part Five: Merlot humble wine cork by creating museum quality portraits with hundreds of thousands 18 There are six grapes that you really need to of corks. know about: Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are the white grapes. 25 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : FALL : 2017 | 3 editor’sLETTER JIM RINK VOLUME 49 NO. 3 · FALL 2017 Published by The American Wine Society, a non-profit corporation, PO Box 889, Scranton, PA 18501 uring the week of December 3, 1967, the number one Billboard single hit Single copies $5.00 song was Daydream Believer by the Monkees. Although sleepy Jean and D Copyright © 2017 by AWS, Inc. homecoming queens have little to do with the AWS, the date and sentiment of Reproduction or use of the editorial or pictorial content without written the title meshed perfectly with the inaugural meeting of a select group of wine permission is prohibited. enthusiasts and Dr. Konstantin Frank, who first proposed the formation of the Library of Congress Class Number: Society 50 years ago. In this issue of the Journal, we will examine his life and times TP544 A46A3 LC Card 76-647900 and how his strong beliefs turned dreams into reality. Publisher David Falchek On the travel front, intrepid reporter George Medovoy takes us to the Editor California city of Oxnard, to the modern home of Herzog Wine Cellars, the West Jim Rink Coast branch of Royal Wine Corporation, one of the largest distributors of kosher Contributing Writers wine in the United States. What is kosher wine? George explains that too. Kristine Austin, Ed Van Dyne, Eric Miller, Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, Jim Rink, Michael Schafer, CSW, Wine and winemakers have a lot of chemistry. Kristine Austin is fascinated with pH George Medovoy and returns to this issue with part deux — did you know that the pH in your soil is Editorial Office just as important as the pH in your wine? Jim Rink 2800 S. Lake Leelanau Drive Lake Leelanau, MI 49653 Sharing its 50th anniversary with the AWS is the The Consortium for the Protection [email protected] BECOME A of the Lugana, a wine region in Italy. Using almost exclusively Turbiana grapes, Unsolicited manuscripts or other Lugana wines have begun to amass a large following. information will not be returned unless accompanied by return postage. Part 5 in our crash course on “The Big Six of Grapes” features Merlot, courtesy of Advertising Office PO Box 889 Michael Schafer, CSW. As always, we have “21 Wines to Watch” by Ellen Landis, CS, Scranton, PA 18501 CSW. In this issue, Ellen features wines from California, Oregon and Washington. 888-AWS-9070 (fax) 570.344.4825 Bottle prices in this issue’s collection range from $18 to $220. executivedirector@ americanwinesociety.org Creative | Production Stay thirsty, 404.925.2677 The Blue Guy, LLC [email protected] theblueguy.com 4 | WINE JOURNAL : FALL : 2017 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Founder The AWS is the largest consumer based wine education organization in the U.S. A non-profit Konstantin Frank group, the AWS is devoted to educating people on all aspects of wine. Its members include AWS National Officers and Board of Directors wine novices, experts, grape growers, amateur and professional winemakers, chefs, wine President Treasurer Director of appreciators, wine educators, restaurateurs and anyone wanting to learn more about wine. Kristin Casler Kraft Tom Wallman Member Services Director of Jay Bileti Vice President Educational Services Joe Broski Executive Director AWS ACTIVITIES Aaron Mandel David Falchek AWS Chapters: Local community groups of AWS members sponsor programs, usually Secretary Director of Competitions monthly. Activities include: tastings, dinners, lectures, picnics, winery tours, winemaking and Leanne Wheeler Joe Dautlick cooking demonstrations, viticulture conferences, amateur wine-judging events, and other Past Presidents wine-related social events. Guests are welcome and novices have nothing to fear. Chapters 1967–1970 1991 2002 are self-supporting, so expect a nominal charge to attend a tasting, dinner, etc. If a local Albert W. Laubengayer Stephen R. Kampers William H. Eisberg 1971–1972 1992 2003 chapter does not exist in your area, the national office will be glad to assist in forming a Robert A. Dickmann J. Randy Hurteau Frank C. Aquilino chapter. All that is needed are a few interested wine lovers. Meeting can be informal and 1973–1974 1993 2004 held in member’ homes or in other settings, such as restaurants and wineries. Carl W. Damoth Alcide L. Porrell Willis L. Parker 1975–1976 1994 2005 AWS Regional Events: Organized by regional vice-presidents, include statewide wine Jerry S. Miller George E. Wilson Tom Castronovo 1977–78 1995 2006 judging, contests, special tastings, regional wine conferences, regional picnics and dinners. Kathryn Froelich Kenneth P. Brewer Janice Cobett 1979–1980 1996 2007 AWS National Conference: Held each fall—a two and one-half day national conference and Joseph P. Nardone Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. Albert L. Guber, Jr. extravaganza of wine. Attendees become part of a tradition that has drawn wine-lovers, 1981–1982 1997 2008-2009 winemakers and gastronomes together every November for over 45 years. Prominent John M. Hasson Eugene J. Spaziani Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. American and international speakers conduct seminars and lectures on all aspects of wine 1983–1984 1998 2010-2011 Michael A. Farren Gary C. Pavlis Willis L. Parker appreciation, wine production, grape growing and cuisine. Members experience fine food at 1985–1986 1999 2012-2014 connoisseur luncheons and dinners, tastings of hundreds of wines and royal treatment by Lewis H. France, Jr. Gayle M. Darugh Jane M. Duralia the finest American hotels and resorts. The annual conference brings professionals, serious 1987–1988 2000 2015-2016 Thomas C. Iezzi, Jr. Charles E. Hastings Frank C. Aquilino amateurs and novices together to discover what is new in wine. 1989–1990 2001 Alton L. Long Pamela J. Davey AWS MEMBER BENEFITS INCLUDE: • Participation in local chapter activities BECOME A • Participation in local, regional and national events MEMBER • Personalized membership card • Professional Member Website Links and Promotions Join on-line at americanwinesociety.org or use this form • AWS Bimonthly Newsletter • AWS vintage charts I want to join the AWS I want to give an AWS Gift Membership to: • Wine Judge Certification Program • National Wine Tasting Project • Winemaking competitions Last Name First Name Middle Initial • AWS Wine Competition Discounts • Discounts from wineries and other AWS partners Street Address City/State/Zip Code Check Membership type: Phone E-mail Individual $49.00 This Gift Membership is from: Household (2 family members-same address) $62.00 Professional (includes plaque) $99.00 Last Name First Name Middle Initial Lifetime $950.00 Student (full-time, ages 21-30) $25.00 Street Address City/State/Zip Code NOTE: Payment must be made in U.S.