China’s ambassador on the B e i j i n g O ly m p i c s

May–June 2008

The Life & Times Of William Barton, dean of diplomats ‘Seek peace. Prepare for war.’

Angelina Jolie: Top marks as a celebrity diplomat Pamela Wallin: How Afghanistan changed her life Ontario wine: Triumph in Prince Edward County

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XXXTUBSNPUPSTDB The World in Canada

Volume 19, Number 1 PUBLISHER Neil Reynolds ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Donna Jacobs EDITOR Table of Jennifer Campbell ART DIRECTOR Paul Cavanaugh ADVERTISING ADVISOR CONTENTS Cu Van Ha cu@prestoncatalogue com. 1-613-262-4908 or 1-416-600-4908 COPY EDITOR Roger Bird CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Daniel Drolet George Abraham CULTURE EDITOR Margo Roston CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Stephen Beckta Laura Neilson Bonikowsky Don Cayo Margaret Dickenson DIPLOMATICA| Charles Enman Verbatim: Celebrities on a mission ...... 5 George Fetherling Good Deeds: Irish eyes are smiling ...... 8 William Fisher Lu Shumin Diplomatic Agenda: China’s Games ...... 9 CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Questions Asked: Pamela Wallin’s world ...... 11 Ulle Baum Brigitte Bouvier Larry Dickenson DISPATCHES| Sam Garcia Frank Scheme A living legacy Dyanne Wilson The life and times of William J . Barton ...... 16 Business Management Jessie Reynolds WEBMASTER A cure for the high cost of drugs ...... 23 Leslee McCabe DIPLOPORTAL WEB PARTNERS www .diploportal .com DELIGHTS| Alastair Sweeny Richard Evers Al Capone’s Canada ...... 24 (Northern Blue Publishing) Wine: Prince Edward County’s story ...... 27 PUBLISHER EMERITUS Books: The quest for peace in the Middle East ...... 29 Lezlee Cribb ADVERTISING INQUIRIES Homes: Malaysia’s Rockcliffe residence ...... 32 Contact Neil Reynolds or Donna Jacobs Canadiana: A gentleman bandit ...... 35 reynolds diplomat@sympatico. ca. Entertaining: Margaret’s meal bookends ...... 36 jacobs diplomat@sympatico. ca. SUBSCRIPTIONS Envoy’s album ...... 40 Diplomat & International Canada is published six times a year . Subscription rates: individual, one year $35 .70 . For Canadian orders add 5 per cent DIGNITARIES| GST . U .S . orders please add $15 for postage . All other orders please add $25 . New arrivals in the diplomatic corps ...... 38 SUBMISSIONS Diplomat & International Canada welcomes submissions . Contact Jennifer Campbell, editor, DIPLOMATIC MISSIONS ...... 42 at editor@diplomatonline .com or (613) 231-8476 . DIPLOMAT & INTERNATIONAL CANADA P .O Box 1173, Station B DESTINATIONS| Ottawa, Ontario Canada K1P 5R2 Phone: (613) 259-3038 Visiting Oxford through the looking glass ...... 52 Fax: (613) 259-5481 E-mail: info@diplomatonline .com www.diplomatonline.com ALL RIGHTS RESERVED . The publisher assumes no responsibility for unsolicited material . No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the Published by publisher . The views expressed in the articles are those of the authors . © 2007 ISSN 1190-8343 Publication Mail # 40957514 . Return undeliverable Canadian copies to: Diplomat Magazine, Sparrow House P O. . Box 1173, Station B, Ottawa, ON K1P 5R2 Enterprises Inc . DIPLOMATICA|EDITOR’S NOTE

Barton’s bequest M r . B a r t o n a l s o t a Rideau Club dinner in early shares his views on dis- CONTRIBUTORS March, William Barton was feted armament . And guess Afor his considerable donation what? The creator of Brigitte Bouvier, cover photographer – $3 million – to Carleton University’s a chair that will study Norman Paterson School of International that very topic doesn’t Affairs . At 90, Mr . Barton is frail, but believe in it . It’s not that quite able to get around, and his legend- jennifer campbell he doesn’t find disarma- ary quips punctuated the evening . Out to ment a charming ideal mark their colleague’s generous bequest – it’s just that he doesn’t think it’s achiev- were his contemporaries – Jake Warren, able any time in the near future . former ambassador to the United States This spring issue has plenty of other and high commissioner for London, and good reads, too . There’s a feature on Al Geoffrey Pearson, who was Canada’s am- Capone’s connections to Canada, specifi- Brigitte Bouvier started taking pho- bassador to the Soviet Union during the cally to the city of Moose Jaw . Up front we tos professionally after graduating Cold War . The triumvirate of diplomatic have a selection of quotes from celebrity from the Southern Alberta Institute of heavy-weights represented a lifetime of diplomats, a subject Andrew Cooper, Technology’s photojournalism program achievement, and offered a reminder of associate director of the Centre for Inter- in 2000 . She has shot for the Globe and recent history . And, as was mentioned national Governance Innovation, studied Mail, National Post, The Ottawa Citizen several times during the evening, their and then wrote about in his recent book . and Maclean’s as well as a number of legacies lived on . It turned out to be an Also in our Diplomatica section, there’s an commercial clients . As an official pho- elegiac night . Within two weeks, Mr . interview with former diplomat Pamela tographer for former prime minister Pearson had died . Two more weeks on, Wallin, who talks about her role on the Paul Martin, she made politics look Mr . Warren passed away . Manley Panel on Afghanistan, how she interesting . Born in Saskatchewan and However, Mr . Barton, our cover story divides her time between New York City raised in British Columbia and Alberta, subject, just keeps going . And he doesn’t and Toronto, and what she thinks about she came to Ottawa immediately after mind living longer for one primary rea- another female journalist as the next gov- graduating and her images have lit up son . As the widower who lost his only son ernor general . In our recurring Diplomatic the capital ever since . two years ago told writer Charles Enman, Agenda feature, Chinese Ambassador he wants to keep growing his bequest so Lu Shumin defends his country’s right to he can leave the William and Jeanie Bar- hold the Olympics . ANNOUNCEMENT ton Chair in International Affairs in even In Delights, book reviewer George healthier shape than it is now . Abraham looks at titles from the Middle Our cover story traces this distin- East . Wine columnist Stephen Beckta gets guished diplomat’s life . Mr . Barton tells closer to home with a look at some very our writer about growing up during the drinkable wines from Prince Edward Depression, about how he served in the County . Meanwhile, food columnist Mar- army, about how he eventually joined the garet Dickenson digests the final course of foreign service and went on to become the meal – the mignardise . Culture editor Canada’s ambassador to the United Na- Margo Roston drops in on Malaysian High tions, and about how he continues, to Commissioner Dennis Ignatius and his Cu Van Ha has joined Diplomat this day, to cook every meal himself in his wife, Cherry, and our history feature tells and International Canada as ad- well-appointed retirement residence in the story of Bill Miner, a gentleman bandit . vertising advisor . He started his New Edinburgh . On the policy front, the Finally, in an advertorial feature, Austra- first national art magazine at veteran envoy shares his pragmatic views lian High Commissioner Bill Fisher offers age 20, while earning his under- on everything from Stephen Harper’s at- an insider’s guide to travel in his country . graduate degree in architecture titude toward the Department of Foreign Find out where to get the best wine, where from Carleton University . Mr . Affairs and International Trade, to his take to hit the slopes, and where to surf . Van Ha enjoys promoting cre- on Russia; from Canada’s involvement in ativity by combining his love Afghanistan to the war in Iraq . Jennifer Campbell is Diplomat’s editor . for the arts, advertising and marketing to build success in business . His company, Cuative UP FRONT & Co . Publishing & Media, has Photographer Brigitte Bouvier captured vener- produced and published many able diplomat William Barton at his retirement successful art, fashion, dining residence in New Edinburgh . Ms . Bouvier de- and design publications and scribed him as a gentleman and a pragmatist media entities to date . Email and said he was quite willing to do whatever she cu@prestoncatalogue .com to asked . He shared some of his family and archival reach him . photos with her and posed patiently . See more of the photo shoot in our cover package which begins on page 16 .

 may—june 2008 VERBATIM|DIPLOMATICA

Celebrity THE WORLD Diplomats ACCORDING By Donna Jacobs TO: Angelina Jolie tars shine . Some stars, especially the very bright George Clooney Sones, are directing their Don Cheadle own dazzling spotlight to shine on a cause célèbre. AND MANY MORE! “Celebrities aim high, ” tions says political science pro- a fessor Andrew F . Cooper . “Not withstanding all of their flaws, whether due to oversized egos seeking applause or deficiencies of governance All photos: united n structure, celebrities do raise the level of George Clooney travelled to Chad in January as a UN “messenger of peace” after spending time in expectations .” Sudan’s Darfur region. Dr . Cooper has become an expert on the various ways that celebrity diplomats and Bono were among the guests . and said, 'Tell people what is happening – actors, singers, former U .S . presidents, At that meeting, actress Sharon Stone here . Tell them we will all be slaughtered . billionaire businessmen, athletes and was listening to Microsoft founder Bill Tell them we need help .’” musicians – are changing the quiet, Gates describe the simplicity of insecti- Ms . Farrow used the diplomatic tactic sometimes stodgy, world of conventional cide-treated bednets to protect Africans of “classic linkage” by calling for a boy- diplomacy . from malaria . cott of the “Genocide Olympics,” says Dr . Celebrity diplomacy does more than Onstage was Tanzania’s President Ben- Cooper . put “a human face” on international rela- jamin Mkapa . Ms . Stone leapt up from the Ms . Farrow recently badgered Holly- tions, he says . Celebrities bring in billions audience and addressed the startled man wood director Steven Spielberg into not of dollars – their own or someone else’s . directly: “I’d like to offer you $10,000 to signing the contract he had, ambivalently, Many millions come from their ability buy some bednets today .” sat on for a year to help the Chinese stage to embarrass, inspire and charm money And then – almost in a revivalist fash- the Olympics . That was before, on another from other people’s deep pockets, or ion – she turned and exhorted the audi- front, Chinese soldiers killed hundreds of from government budgets . ence directly . demonstrating Tibetans and faced another Besides being a professor at the Uni- “Would anyone else like to stand up Olympic boycott movement over China’s versity of Waterloo, Dr . Cooper works as and help? Just stand up . Just stand up . long suppression of Tibet . associate director of the Waterloo-based People are dying in his country today, Ms . Farrow, with her son Ronan, an- Centre for International Governance In- and that is not OK with me .” The room grily laid out her position in a The Wall novation (CIGI) . He focuses on how the seized up with tension and embarrass- Street Journal op-ed a year ago: China is United Nations, World Trade Organiza- ment – but only for a few moments . actively and financially supporting the tion and financial institutions can work “Stone, in her five minutes of Davos Muslim-dominated Khartoum govern- better . fame, managed to get 30 executives to ment, which has killed between 200,000 His special interest in summits re- collectively raise $1 million,” writes and 400,000 Christian and native Afri- volves around the role of the world’s ris- Dr . Cooper . Later, Ms . Stone explained: cans, and has driven 2 .2 million people ing powers – Brazil, Russia, India, China, “These were people with a lot of cash . I from their homes . China owns the ma- South Africa, Mexico . A former visiting thought ‘I really have to get it now,’ and jority share in the country’s two largest scholar at Harvard University, he pro- that’s why I made an ass of myself .’” oil-rich reserves; up to 80 percent of the vides media commentaries, most recently Of the dozens of celebrities he wrote oil revenues from sales to China buy war for Al Jazeera, BBC and CBC. At past G8 about, Dr . Cooper knows and keeps in materiel against the people of Darfur . Summits, posted in the media room to in- contact with one: actress Mia Farrow . Under pressure, China publicly asked terpret and comment on proceedings, he “She is extremely committed,” he says . the Sudan government in Khartoum to had watched celebrity power grow . But A UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador, she’s allow the full deployment of a UN-Afri- after the 2005 G8 Summit in Gleneagles, visited Darfur eight times on her own . can Union peacekeeping force . Scotland, where Bono and Bob Geldof She told ABC TV News in March: “I Actress Angelina Jolie is a member of appeared, he started to write Celebrity was given this [necklace] by a woman the New York-based Council on Foreign Diplomacy. named Halima in 2004, a refugee . And Relations think-tank . “She has been a The World Economic Forum in Davos, she had been wearing it when her village surprisingly adept diplomat,” says Dr . Switzerland also draws stars – earning was attacked . She'd been holding her in- Cooper . “You would have thought she the description of “an Alpine version of fant son . Arab militia tore her baby from wouldn’t be particularly good or valu- the Oscars .” In 2005, Sharon Stone, Rich- her arms and bayoneted him before her able, but she seems to be growing into ard Gere, British musician Peter Gabriel, eyes . They cut them [children] and threw the part with gravitas and maturity .” Her Angelina Jolie, Bill Gates, George Soros them into the well . She clasped my hand February trip to Iraq’s refugee camps fo-

diplomat and international canada  DIPLOMATICA|VERBATIM

cused more attention on camp conditions value to it ”. there and in Jordan and Syria than they’d USA Today, June 23, 2006 yet received . “Diana, Princess of Wales, was such Actress Salma Hayek: has spoken out a model (celebrity) because she was so against domestic abuse and testified before fashionable, so pristine, somebody who the U S. . Congress . “I don’t come from a fam- had royal attachments, who was best ily with domestic violence . I’ve never experi- known for her wardrobe . Diana, going to enced it myself . But I’m very, very passionate Angola, having amputees and casualties about it . It’s a big problem that no one talks sitting on her lap, sharing, hugging – I am about . It’s work that needs to be done . I feel sure her handlers were well aware of all a lot of frustration . It’s very hard to make the risks . She did things beyond possibly Bono and then UN Secretary-General Kofi Annan changes in culture, in social consciousness ”. risking her health . She walked in a field USA Today, June 23, 2006 with landmines . And she was one of the first notable people to shake hands with TV host Oprah Winfrey: “To whom someone with HIV/AIDS showing there much is given, much is expected .” She is wasn’t any risk in doing this .” ranked by Forbes magazine’s as the 215th- richest person in the world . “You can’t live Quotes from the stars in the world, participate in all the benefits of the world, and not give back ”. She gives Bono, lead man, Irish rock band U2: money to women, children and families “I'm tired of dreaming . I'm into doing at via Oprah's Angel Network and The the moment . It's, like, let's only have goals Oprah Winfrey Foundation . that we can go after . U2 is about the im- USA Today, June 23, 2006 possible . Politics is the art of the possible . Angelina Jolie They're very different, and I'm resigned to Actress Ashley Judd: Charity work has that now ”. She pays for her own excursions to the “reorganized my priorities . When I go to Time Magazine, Feb. 23, 2002 world's misery zones and last year made bed at night, I know I’ve done something “There are now two million Africans trips to Sudan and Chad to visit some of of consequence, something that matters ”. on retroviral drugs and that is pretty as- the 1 .8 million people driven from their Her work as Youth AIDS Global Ambassa- tonishing . homes in Darfur by the genocidal attacks dor has taken her to India, Central Ameri- “It's strange because the good news of the Janjaweed militia . can and Africa . makes the bad news even worse .” The “I feel lucky that I stepped into this USA Today, June 23, 2006 G-8 are not making good on their com- life and my eyes were opened,” says Jo- mitments . “This is a scandal .” lie . “What we need is political will . And Actor George Clooney: In January, the Bono said the G8 had given only about that's what people like me can do: bring UN named George Clooney a Messenger half of the $50 billion-a-year increase in [these issues] to the attention of citizens of Peace after he returned from a two- aid to Africa promised at the 2005 summit and reinforce the political will .” week trip to Chad, the Congo and Darfur . at Gleneagles, Scotland . Time Magazine, Jan. 30, 2005 “I think what they're looking to gain from USA Today, Jan. 24, 2008 it is cameras following me to places that Actor Woody Harrelson: A crusader for they're trying to get attention to and that's Actress Angelina Jolie: “If [celebrities] are health and environmental issues, he drives fine,” he said . “That's a good use of celeb- going to speak up, we have to know what a biodiesel-powered engine and eats no rity if you ask me . we're talking about . We have to make sure animal products and uses solar power . “If “I look forward to working with the we are willing to dedicate part of our lives you’re constantly there in the media, talk- United Nations in order to build public to this . We shouldn't do it halfway ”. ing about this, that or the other, at a certain support for its critically important work Jolie practices what she preaches . point,” he said, “people don’t put much in some of the most difficult, dangerous

 may—june 2008 DIPLOMATICA|VERBATIM

ary 2005 and AIDS eradication to defence of Tibet against domination by China . “I've not been pro-boycott [of the Au- gust Olympics in China] . But I think if this is not handled correctly, yes – we should boycott . Everyone should boycott ”. The longtime Buddhist and friend of the Dalai Lama said he was grieving for “my brothers and sisters” in Tibet but “sad for both sides” in the dispute ongoing since China annexed Tibet in 1950 . “As educated, as sensitive as the Chinese are, why they've misread the Tibetan situation from the very beginning is beyond me ”. International Herald Tribune, Mar. 15, 2008

Actor Brad Pitt: In 2006, he and Angelina Jolie each endowed their new Jolie-Pitt Foundation with $4 million from which tthey have provided $1 million for refu- gees from the Darfur crisis and $100,000 for the Daniel Pearl Foundation (named for The Wall Street Journal reporter whose (Clockwise from top left) George Clooney, Richard Gere and then Secretary-General Kofi Annan, Brad Pitt kidnap and beheading were master- and Mr. Annan, and Don Cheadle. minded by convicted terrorist ringleader Ahmed Omar Saeed Sheikh in 2002) . They have also provided money to Global Ac- and dire places in the world .” he is best known for his environmental tion for Children and Doctors Without ABC News, Mar. 9, 2008 work and his focus on clean water (see Borders, and to families affected by HIV/ www .leonardodicaprio .org) . He released AIDS and by extreme poverty . Actor Don Cheadle: His causes include his video The Eleventh Hour on global Mr . Pitt is also working on plans to AIDS, disaster relief, health, human rights, warming last month . build 150 eco-friendly homes in the New refugees and the genocide in Darfur, about “What is it, over 90 percent of the sci- Orleans Lower 9th Ward which was which he co-authored a book Not on Our entific community has a consensus that devastated by Hurricane Katrina, partly Watch: The Mission to End Genocide in Darfur mankind does have an impact on our cli- funded by his $5 million Make It Right and Beyond. With other Oceans Eleven stars mate? I tend to side with them ”. He drives Foundation (www .makeitrightnola .org) . Brad Pitt, George Clooney, Matt Damon and a hybrid car and has built a house with all He and Ms . Jolie have bought a mansion producer Jerry Weintraub, he has endowed the bells and whistles of green technology . in the city’s French Quarter . the Not on Our Watch Foundation . “Solar panels and everything,” he said . At their California home, they use a “I really try to feel what it would pos- “It's insulated in the proper ways . I've water capture system and solar power . sibly be like to have been attacked and got clean air, clean water . It's very compli- “There is no concept of waste in nature,” trudged through miles and miles and cated stuff, but it's green ”. said Pitt . “Anything that's discarded be- miles of desert,” he said . ABC News, Aug. 10, 2007. comes fuel or becomes food for something CNN, May 4, 2007. else . We can be living the same way ”. Actor Richard Gere: His causes range Actor Leonardo DiCaprio: In addition to from campaigning to get out votes during Donna Jacobs is associate publisher of his campaign against “blood diamonds,” the Palestinian Authority election of Janu- Diplomat.

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An Emerald evening

eace in Ireland is a lot closer to real- ity today than it was in 1978 when Pthe Ireland Fund of Canada was founded, but there is still important work to do there, says an organizer of the Ot- tawa fundraiser that annually contributes to the fund . The fund, a non-political registered charity founded by a group of Canadians including former Lieutenant-Governor Hilary Weston, takes on community proj- ects in Northern Ireland and Ireland that bring young people together to foster reconciliation and understanding between the Protestant and Catholic traditions .

The Ottawa chapter was founded 18 nne wilson a years ago, and, coincidentally, the cur- dy rent Irish Ambassador was involved in Irish eyes were smiling at this year’s Emerald Ball which raised $20,000 for the Ireland Fund of Canada. its founding . Declan Kelly was in Canada Irish Ambassador Declan Kelly (right) and his wife Anne attended along with Ottawa mayor Larry O’Brien on an earlier posting and took part in the and his fiancée Colleen McBride. initial meetings . Last year, when he re- turned as ambassador, he got to see how with a cocktail reception, followed by a ish High Commission . They support it by the fund’s Canadian fundraising events three-course meal, and then dancing with a alternating hosting duties of a reception have matured . rhythm and blues band . It raised $20,000 . for sponsors . This year, Mr . Kelly hosted “There is no doubt that the fund has The ball has helped fund several proj- the event at his temporary Rockcliffe resi- played an important role in bringing ects and groups in the past, including the dence . (The official residence is undergo- about peace and reconciliation in North- Irish Children’s Aid Society, an Ireland- ing renovations ). ern Ireland,” Mr . Kelly said . “Over the Canadian university scholarship, the Irish The Ireland Fund is part of the largest last 20 years, I have been privileged to Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to worldwide network of people of Irish experience the work of the fund first hand Children, and the Building Bridges Break- ancestry and friends of Ireland . Canada in San Francisco, Los Angeles, San Diego, ing Borders program . has three chapters – the other two are in Denver, Sydney, Melbourne, Auckland, The same fund has also given money Toronto and Edmonton – and the fund Toronto and, of course, here in Ottawa ”. to Ottawa events, including a St . Patrick’s exists in several other countries including The Ottawa chapter’s big fundraiser is Day parade in the city . One year, it pro- Australia, France, Germany, Great Britain, an annual ball known as the Emerald Ball, vided $15,000 to the University of Ottawa Japan, China, Monaco, New Zealand and which is presided over by Mr . Kelly and Celtic Chair . the United States of America . Since its his wife Anne . This year’s event took place Two diplomatic missions are involved inception, the worldwide fund has raised April 19 at the Chateau Laurier and began in the ball – the Irish embassy and the Brit- $300 million .

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’It's a party hosted by China for the whole planet‘

to volunteer at the expectations . China is not perfect yet, as

FIRST NAME: Shumin Games and the use of could be said for any other country . In fact, English has spread with the Games in mind, nobody wants NAME: Lu LAST even to many senior more than we Chinese ourselves to fur- CITIZENSHIP: Chinese citizens . ther improve the country’s environment, AS The Olympics to human rights, rule of law as well as the PRESENTED CREDENTIALS March 21, 2005 China is not only living standards of the people . In the last ambassador: a matter of this seven years, nobody has made more effort

PREVIOUS POSTINGS: coming August . in that direction than the Chinese govern-

Australia and the It has been with ment, and nobody deserves more credit us all these years, for it than the Chinese people . United States shaping our lives in subtle yet de- cisive ways . As its opening gets closer, our lives have already benefited enormously n 1932, Liu Changchun, a young Chi- from the Games . The Games, in turn, will nese man, boarded a ship from Shang- be our present to the world as a token of Ihai to Los Angeles . It had been 36 appreciation . It’s a party hosted by China years since the first modern Olympics and for the whole planet . the Chinese were making their first ap- Yet this party is in peril . A variety of pearance in the Games, with Mr . Liu as the “causes” have been invented to under- only athlete representing a country of 400 mine the Beijing Games . It could be Darfur istock million people . Mr . Liu won no medals, today, Tibet tomorrow and something else However, there has always been some- didn’t even come close . It took 52 more next . The Olympic year has become an one trying to hijack the Games for the years until the Chinese won their first gold open season on China . advancement of their own causes, more medal, in 1984, again in Los Angeles . That To tell the truth, that’s not surprising often than not on the shaky foundation of year, we did not stop at one gold – we – it had been expected . However, we have misinformation . According to some, China won 16 . China is used to waiting . to distinguish between well-meaning criti- is a giant oil leech on Sudan and a weap- The waiting now is much shorter . cisms and malevolent sabotage . ons monger besides, and should be held Within a few weeks we will see the open- We understand the world’s expecta- responsible for the strife in that country . In ing of the Games in Beijing, a moment the tions of China with the 2008 Olympics and fact, though, China is only the Number 2 world looks forward to every four years . the good intentions behind most of those market for Sudanese oil and accounted for For China, the long-term wait lasted 112 years . Many comment that the Olympics is China’s coming-out party, a showcase for a modern, prosperous and confident nation . To China, the Olympics is also a process for building a better society . With this event as a spur, hundreds of kilome- tres of subway have been built, capable of handling up to eight million travelers every day by 2012, and nine million by 2015, when Beijing will surpass New York as the city with the longest subway system in the world . Traffic congestion will be eased, saving tens of millions of hours for commuters every day – more time for sleep, more time with families . With the construction of a myriad of state-of-the-art sporting facilities and new hotels and shops, tens of thousands of jobs have been created, spreading tangible benefits to the ordinary residents of Beijing and beyond . More istock than a million people have registered The China National Stadium, also known as the “Bird’s Nest,” will serve as the main stadium for Olympics.

diplomat and international canada  diplomatic agenda|DIPLOMATICA

only eight per cent of weapons imported by Sudan in 2006 . When there are big- ger oil buyers and arms merchants, why single out China? When it comes to Tibet, we have all te sta seen the riots on TV and it is clear they n E 0 ria ,00 threaten innocent people’s lives and life cto 0 Vi ,50 savings . These well-organized, destructive $3 and murderous crimes have been spun in the media as “peaceful” protests by “Ti- betan exiles,” who are exiled only from the Marilyn Wilson truth . These purveyors of misinformation Sales Representative 165 Pretoria Avenue, want a boycott of the Olympics to advance Ottawa, Canada K1S 1X1 their self-righteous cause at the expense of [email protected] something shared by all of humanity . This is exploitation in its worst possible form . China has waited for more than a cen- tury for the Games, and as a country we can afford to wait still . But to the athletes, the wait has been lifelong and the op- portunity won’t come again . Out of what degree of selfishness could anyone even

think of depriving the dreams of others, especially when history has shown that boycotts solve nothing? Are the boycott- promoters ignorant, or do they just not care? The Olympics is not merely for the few – the strong athletic few, the powerful political few . The Games are for ordinary folk like you and me, and that’s why the Games rise above all other championships and tournaments . Their most glorious moments are not the opening ceremony, OfferingExclusive not the firing of the Olympic flame, nor - the attendance of heads of state and gov- Rates For Diplomats ernments . The glory is in the transient moments of human achievements in At Accu-Rate Corporation our For your personal the Games themselves, and the cheer- team of highly experienced currency consultation please call: ing crowds in the stadium or at TV sets traders and foreign banking partners Marie Boivin around the world . allow us to negotiate currency prices Managing Director The Beijing Olympics is not a party lower than any other currency dealer 613-596-5505 ext. 101 about China, nor should it be a platform or commercial institution. [email protected] for politicians, countries or groups . It is a party for us all . There are no reserved seats for the self-serving, Olympics-exploiting Accu-Rate Corporation World Exchange Plaza few who would kill the dream . Accu-Rate Corporation 2573 Carling Ave. 111 Albert St. Foreign Exchange & International Payment Services Lu Shumin is China's ambassador to www.accu-rate.ca (613) 596-5505 (613) 238-8454 Canada .

10 may—june 2008 QUESTIONS Asked|DIPLOMATICA

Pamela Wallin's life on the run

Pamela Wallin became Canada’s consul- has connections because of NAFTA and general in New York a few months after the both Canada and the United States have Twin Towers fell. In that job, she learned been trying to expand this trading rela- to talk – and listen – to Americans, and tionship south . On some issues, it’s bilat- to see her country through the eyes of eral, on some it's trilateral and on some it’s others. That theme continued in the North-South . What I’m trying to do there eclectic ensemble of assignments is not create a separate sort of Canada pro- she juggles these days: She was gram because I think the important thing a member of the Manley Panel is for us to be integrated into the discus- on Afghanistan, she serves sion . When we take a look at energy, then on several corporate boards, let’s put Canada at the table because we’re including CTV, she works as a the largest supplier . But you’d also want senior advisor to the president Brazil at the table and maybe even Hugo of the Americas Society and Chavez (laughs) . the Council of the Americas and – as if that’s not enough DM: So is that what you’d call your day – she’s the chancellor of the job? University of Guelph. Diplo- PW: Well, no, not really – it’s one of the day mat’s editor Jennifer Campbell jobs . I’m also chancellor at Guelph and at caught up with her when she certain periods, during convocations and recently touched down in To- board meetings, that’s pretty full-time . ronto, where she lives half the Then I’m involved on several boards that time. are also very busy . I love the eclectic na- ture of the work because it's everything Diplomat Magazine: Tell me I have an interest in . It’s nice, almost like about a regular day in your life journalism continued in the sense that in these days . the world of journalism you never knew what you’d be doing on a given day . Now Pamela Wallin: Well, there’s no I do it without the cameras rolling . So I such thing as a normal day, at least still have that diversity . And there’s a lot not by anyone else’s standards . My of volunteer work too . Sometimes there work all involves travel, some of it’s in just aren’t enough hours to the day . Toronto, some of it’s in New York, some of it’s in Ottawa . As it turned out, some DM: Tell me about your time with the of it was in Afghanistan . I do spend a lot Manley Panel . What did it entail? of time just in motion and that’s a much PW: It was huge, for me, a life-changing more complicated proposition these experience . It entailed everything that days, given airlines and weather . You I’ve spent time on in my life: journalism, just try to make the best of that, to get traveling to war zones, understanding as much done as you can when you’re the American point of view, caring about on the ground and always, when my country . It was an amazing experi- you’re heading to the airport, have ence . You had five people – we all knew your computer fully charged . I never each other and each other’s work . We waste those moments . Airplanes are all thought at one level we were pretty good quiet time for working . well informed and then we sat down and started hearing from people who DM: Can you tell me a bit about your were there to inform us . We were hearing work with the Americas Society and evidence from people who’d been there, the Council of the Americas? whether it was the military, NGOs, aid PW: It’s one large organization with two workers, or ex-pat Afghans, they were wings, one based in New York and one people who had informed views . We also based in Washington . The Washington of- started to change and morph, which is fice is obviously a little more focused on something that comes with more knowl- the day-to-day policies vis-à-vis North and edge . We learned from as many vantage South America . The Rockefellers started points as we possibly could and it was in- this more than 40 years ago . Obviously, it evitable that we would go to Afghanistan . diplomat and international canada 11 QUESTIONS Asked|DIPLOMATICA

I think we all were struck by the spirit be treated like everyone else . I felt quite saying ‘Oh, I didn’t know that’s how you of the people . This is one of the poorest badly that he was outed in that sense be- did it,’ those moment of clarity were the countries in the world, with GDP of Haiti . cause he wasn’t looking for special status . ones that gave me real satisfaction . Some They’ve been at war for 30 years with the He just wanted to make his contribution . of them are funny and some were kind of Soviets, followed by the horrors of the Tal- It’s a very good feeling . I very much felt tiny but, for example, going to a confer- iban, and they have a very tribal culture . that – that we had done something useful, ence where Americans and Canadians Yet there are people who are committed that we’d contributed to the debate and were talking about a piece of legislation to rebuilding their lives and their families understanding in this country . the American said ‘Has that legislation and their country . been tabled?’ ‘Yes’, said the Canadian . Ca- Our own soldiers and the soldiers of DM: So your personal feelings about Can- nadians were pleased and the Americans other countries as well have really em- ada staying in Afghanistan are the same as were upset and they went back and forth braced that mission . Of course, soldiers the panel’s? with this conversation for five minutes join the military because they want to PW: Absolutely . It was unanimous . What until I asked a former U S. . ambassador to go into combat zones but it was beyond our discussions were about – and they stand up and explain that tabling means that . The (Canadian) soldiers had really were animated – is that we all cared so very different things in the two different embraced the mission in the largest sense much . We were bound and determined countries . of what we were there to do which is to There was a senior American official give control and the ability to control back who was using a Blackberry and I said into the hands of the Afghans . I think that The Afghan people were ‘Glad we could help you out .’ He said really confirmed for a lot of us that this ‘What do you mean?’ And I said ‘Well, we was a job that was worth doing and worth wonderful. They were invented those things ’. doing well . It’s not to go in with your flag on your forehead . That’s not how you accomplish DM: Did your opinion on the mission very grateful and this . What we care about, what Americans change when you went to Afghanistan? care about is what answers our own needs, PW: I didn’t have a 180 or anything like respectful and said to what helps us solve our own problems . So that but I guess it was like my time as that’s the approach we have to take, rather consul-general (in New York) . When you us time and again, ‘we’re than win and lose and being right . go somewhere for an extended period of Diplomacy needs a lot more subtlety time, you look at that country a different sorry your young men than sometimes we approach it with . I be- way but you also start seeing your own lieve it’s important that leaders talk – they country differently because you have the and women are dying need to understand what makes the other privilege of seeing your own country tick and have a good enough relationship through other people’s eyes . That’s what that they can pick up the phone . No one in for our cause.’ happened for us in Afghanistan . The Af- the world has a relationship like these two ghan people were wonderful . They were countries . We’re too big, and integrated very grateful and respectful and said to us and connected to rely on ad hominem time and again, ‘we’re sorry your young to write something that was accessible . If foreign policy . We’re the smaller player in men and women are dying for our cause ’. you couldn’t find Afghanistan on a map, this game and the one that’s much more or if you’d studied it on a daily basis, that dependent . So let’s make it work . Let’s DM: What were your thoughts when news there would be something there that you not find reasons to fight . Let’s find ways broke that Prince Harry was in Afghani- could read . I don’t know what the num- around that . stan? It seems 10 days was enough to bers are now but the department told us ‘make a man’ of him . there’d been more than 200,000 downloads DM: What are your thoughts on Barack PW: I do think that and I’ve felt that of the report . In Ottawa, you can get your Obama’s NAFTA-gate? change in my own life in the couple of hands on it so that means people in other PW: It’s my experience from my time there war zones that I’ve been in and the rough places were really seeking that informa- that Democrats of all stripes have very spots over the years . It seasons you in the tion out . The level of awareness went up . mixed views on this issue and it depends same sense that I think anybody experi- You can see it in the newspaper stories, where the political leaders are . If they’re ences when they face their own mortality, the letters to the editor and the debate in campaigning in an area that’s suffering whether you’re battling cancer or in a Parliament . People just had more informa- high job losses and the manufacturing war zone and not sure where the enemy tion and that’s a good thing . Everyone’s sector is in trouble, they’re going to say is or might be . I think it forces you to face entitled to their own opinion – I just want things that appeal to that sector . But I that issue and to think slightly greater it to be informed . think everybody knows – certainly in- thoughts than we all do when we’re run- formed people know – that we’re so far ning around trying to get from point A to DM: During your time as consul-general beyond that image that Ross Perot talked point B and do our work . in New York (2002-2006), what was your about NAFTA – as this giant sucking So I do think it matures you and sea- most memorable moment? sound to the South where all the jobs were sons you and it’s very hard for those kids PW: Oh, I don’t know – there was one a going to Mexico . The jobs aren’t going to particularly to have a normal life and in day . When you actually see a Canadian Mexico or Canada, they’re going to China, a bizarre way, this was probably one of say ‘I didn’t understand that’ about an India or Vietnam . I think it’s the job of the few times where (Prince Harry) could American or when you have an American political leaders to be more expansive but

12 may—june 2008 QUESTIONS Asked|DIPLOMATICA

that’s a hard job in a seven-second clip in There’s no joy in watching trouble south of updating for people . This notion that the middle of an election campaign . I am of the border . I use the corner-store anal- we’re just peacekeepers, out there doing not fearful that somehow NAFTA will be ogy . If you ran the corner store and you nice things and wearing blue berets is long dismantled but I do think, as Canadians, sold 87 per cent of everything out of that out-of-date and there are very few places we do take these things for granted . In the corner to Mr . and Mrs . Smith, you’d know in the world where that task is called for . days after 9/11, there wasn’t one day that everything about them that you could pos- We’re in the middle of insurgencies and I wasn’t thankful that NAFTA was in place sibly find out . Coke, Pepsi? What do their counter-insurgencies and peace-making and that we had protection for that trade kids like? Who wants the chocolate bar at at the very best . So this is again an op- relationship . We can’t think that it’s not midnight? Let’s understand these people . portunity for Canadians to rethink and to vulnerable or (that it is) invincible . I also like and love their democracy, which come up to speed on where we are and is open and clumsy and these elections look at the realities of this decade and this DM: Looking at world affairs, what’s your seem to go on forever, but if you can get century and not rest on laurels that are biggest concern today? through the primary process, there’s met- out-of-date . PW: On two different levels . One, I think tle there . It’s a chance for us to get to know that there does have to be some resolution and understand it . DM: Who should be the next governor in Pakistan . I think it’s one of the most general of Canada? dangerous places in the world and one DM: What’s Canada’s role in the world? PW: (Laughs) I have no idea . of the countries that is feeding the very PW: I think Canada’s role in the world problem that we’re trying to deal with in could be, and should be, to be a voice of DM: Pamela Wallin? Afghanistan . We need to employ an awful reason and to participate in a very tar- PW: Um, (laughs again) I’ve done a lot lot of diplomatic and political resources to geted and specific manner . We are not a of public service . I actually think those deal with that situation and try to calm the superpower . We don't have a military role jobs are very important – I’m not one that waters there . with the size and breadth of America’s . thinks it’s some outdated tie to the British And, I think the election in the United I don’t think anybody wants that for us . monarchy . The Governor General is our States is important for us . Not that I think They don’t . I don’t think the sense here is equivalent of commander-in-chief . I think there are radical differences in the parties . that Canadians want to play that role . But that in our system, we need the prime I do think that we, as a country, have to I also believe Canadians don’t want to be minister and the governor-general . They spend a little bit more time and attention spectators . have two very different roles . I think the on that relationship because there is so Part of what we rediscovered during ceremonial and the inspirational is really much at stake for us economically . the Afghan panel was a certain amount important .

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Di spatches|WILLIAM BARTON

16 may—june 2008 LIFE & TIMES|Di spatches

Living legend, living legacy Canadian diplomat Bill Barton had an illustrious career, much of it devoted to peacekeeping and disarmament. Now, at the age of 90, he warns that there will be no end to war anytime soon – for all the same old reasons

By Charles Enman

hen legendary Canadian diplomat Bill Barton, at age 89, gave Carleton University $3 million last year, he ended up agreeing with suggestions that the money be spent in the pursuit of arms control and disarmament – an odd combination, given that Mr . Barton thinks global disarmament is a chimera, a hope that will never come to pass . “Disarmament is a wonderful idea,” Mr . Barton told Diplomat Wmagazine in a series of conversations in his well-appointed New Edin- burgh apartment . “But the political situation in the world is such that the big boys will never go for it . “The Americans will never give up their weapons because someone else will get them . The Russians will never give them up because they want them to use as a lever against the Americans ”. Furthermore, Mr . Barton says, warfare itself won’t end any time William Barton, above, holds soon . He regards the primary causes of war as the same now as al- a photo of himself (at left) ways: religion, race and economics . He thinks that it’s reasonable to during his time as Canada’s hope for peace – but thinks at the same time that countries need to ambassador to the United prepare for war . Nations. War and peace, Mr . Barton says, is an extraordinarily difficult sub- ject now . “My worry [now] isn’t so much that a small nation will get and use nuclear weapons as that some small sect will do so ”. ouvier

B An Islamist sect? “At the moment, that seems the risk – but any small group [could

brigitte be the risk] over the long haul ”. diplomat and international canada 17 Di spatches|WILLIAM BARTON

t’s more than a 50-year reach back to His donation will finance the William beginning . the beginnings of Mr . Barton’s diplo- and Jeanie Barton Chair in International “Bill is a bit in the mould of Lester Pear- matic career . He was a part of history Affairs in the Norman Patterson School son . He is modest, not a self-promoter, in Iin a unique way . He has fond memories, of International Affairs . The gift is the some ways a man of very old-fashioned for example, of former Liberal prime third-largest individual donation in the values – all traits that were in some ways minister Lester B . Pearson – Mike Pearson university’s history and it will keep the typical of the ambassadors and envoys of – who won the Nobel Peace Prize for his study of arms control and disarmament that era ”. intervention in the Suez Crisis of 1956 . It secure from all the vagaries of changing Dr . Hampson says Mr . Barton’s chief was in 1956 that Mr . Barton represented university priorities . merit was his realism, conditioned by Canada in the Vienna negotiations that Whatever reservations he may have idealism, but never tipped over into fan- established the International Atomic En- about the idealism of the academics who tasy about the real possibilities in the real ergy Agency, the nuclear watchdog orga- benefit from the chair he has established, world . nization of the United Nations . he’s comfortable with the dichotomy . “It’s not that Bill has no ideals . He “I never really knew Pearson (person- “This resonates with everything that I clearly does, especially in the areas of ally),” Mr . Barton says, “but in his era we did in my career,” he says . “The causes of disarmament and non-proliferation . But were punching above our weight in the arms control and disarmament are critical there’s nothing woolly-eyed about his world community . ones and will never lose their importance . idealism . He recognizes what is achiev- “There were a number of reasons for I am delighted that my donation can be able, doable . He never allows the best to this . Part of it was that there just weren’t put to this use ”. become the enemy of the good . many major international players back When Mr . Barton was considering en- “So he’s both idealistic and pragmatic ”. then . It was effectively a world of 50 or so dowing a chair at Carleton, Fen Hampson, The idealism is there, though in the states . Now we have roughly 190 states director of the Norman Paterson School background . The paramount concern is and they all have ways of pressing their always, ‘how can this situation, as it exists agendas . Of course, this dilutes our influ- on the ground, be pushed in the general ence . “Bill is a bit in the mould of direction one wants it to go?’ Progress in “But it also made a difference having most matters is in increments . Fighting the postwar military punch that we had Lester Pearson. He is modest, that fact simply impedes the process . back then . Pearson was a great advocate of Mr . Barton’s grounded reading of peo- peacekeeping but I don’t think he would not a self-promoter, in some ple and situations made him exceptionally have believed in reducing the strength of effective in diplomacy, Dr . Hampson says . our military as we have done ”. ways a man of very old- But the man’s intellect was no less instru- Pearson, in other words, would not mental . have approved of so much unilateral Ca- fashioned values – all traits “This is a man gifted with a formidable nadian disarmament . intellect and wisdom and a very shrewd Mr . Barton says Canada’s reduction in that were in some ways negotiator . Many of his colleagues have military strength began with the Liberal commented on that fact . The historical government of former Liberal prime min- typical of the ambassadors memory, the easy reach for facts and de- ister Pierre Trudeau and was based on a tails, were quite remarkable . He also dis- somewhat deluded picture of the world . and envoys of that era.” played a terrific wit and sense of humour . “I once has dinner with Trudeau, down And today, 22 years later, Mr . Barton can in New York, when he was Pearson’s par- still remember things with an acuity, lus- liamentary secretary – and I came away tre and clarity that suggest that all these with the impression that he was an airy, for International Affairs, had first sug- things happened yesterday . fairy professor, not someone in touch with gested it be called “The Bill and Jeanie “It’s wonderful, and a sure sign that he reality . Barton Chair in Arms Control and Disar- keeps his mind fully engaged ”. “Under Trudeau, we fell in love with mament,” but, as Dr . Hampson explains, peacekeeping . I think that we were looking Mr . Barton demurred . n his apartment, where he still cooks at the world through rose-tinted glasses . A “He said, ‘I believe in arms control but every meal, Mr . Barton smiles as he lack of realism crept it . We wanted the not in disarmament ’. I said, ‘What do you ponders a reporter’s suggestion that world to be a peaceful place . I guess the mean?’ He said, ‘It’s not going to hap- ITrevor Findlay, the first Barton Chair at wish became father to the belief ”. pen soon ’. And I said, ‘Does that mean it Carleton, has far more belief in disarma- Trudeauesque notions of the way the shouldn’t be a goal?’ ment than he does . world works are still enchanting some “He replied, ‘No, of course not . It’s “I know, I know, Trevor and I have Canadian politicians, Mr . Barton says – es- important that we continue to have our talked about this … but he’ll learn,” he pecially NDP Leader Jack Layton . goals, but we need to be practical and real- says, and laughs softly . istic about what is achievable ’”. He’s made his assertion that the Rus- ill Barton is in his third act and the Dr . Hampson goes back with Mr . Bar- sians and Americans won’t go for it . Both play can’t go on forever – but his re- ton some 22 years, beginning from the states, along with three other nuclear- markable donation to Carleton will moment he joined Trudeau’s Canadian armed states – the United Kingdom, Bnevertheless extend his influence long Institute for International Peace and Se- France and China – have signed the after the curtain falls on his own extraor- curity as a young researcher . The older Nuclear Non-Proliferation Treaty, opened dinary life . man’s influence was important from the for signature in 1968 and aimed at limiting

18 may—june 2008 LIFE & TIMES|Di spatches

Early signs of a future in disarmament: A demonstration platoon from Calgary’s infantry training centre, where Lt. Barton commanded troops, offered a small- arms and gas decontamination display in Calgary in 1940. the spread of nuclear weapons . Only three studies at Carleton can go on indefinitely ”. By common consent in UN corridors, nations of the world – Israel, India, and Disarmament and arms control are easy he was one of the most canny, subtle and Pakistan – have never signed the treaty, ideals to support, but the world hasn’t intelligent representatives Canada had and all three have nuclear weapons . North been making real progress in implement- ever sent . Korea, which signed the treaty and then ing them . The number of states having nu- He lent his name to a group of Western withdrew, is assumed to have tested a clear weapons threatens to grow . Incidents diplomats – “the Barton Group” – who small nuclear device a year and a half ago . of illicit possession of nuclear materials met weekly to hold the feet of the great The Non-Proliferation Treaty called occur frequently . The International Atomic powers to the fire on disarmament and for eventual disarmament, but not even Energy Agency cites 275 cases from 1993 more general security issues . non-proliferation has been achieved . “It’s to 2006, including 15 involving highly In 1980, he retired from what was then a very difficult subject,” Mr . Barton says . enriched uranium, or plutonium, both the Department of External Affairs, but In any case, he believes Dr . Findlay’s bomb materials . Russia alone has enough hardly to a life of hammocks and croquet . idealism on the issue of disarmament will nuclear material to make up to 40 bombs . In 1984, the Trudeau government asked fade . “He seems to have his head screwed “This issue isn’t going away . We have him to become the inaugural chairman of on right . He’ll realize it’s a bit of an idle to address it,” Dr . Findlay says . the Canadian Institute for International hope ”. That would be obvious to Bill Barton . Peace and Security, a Crown corporation He was present at the creation, represent- that was to increase Canadian understand- egardless of their differing opin- ing Canada in the discussions in Vienna ing, both among government and the pub- ions on disarmament, Trevor Find- in 1956 that led to the establishment of the lic, of issues relating to peace and security . lay likes the “symbolism of this International Atomic Energy Agency . He The late Geoffrey Pearson, another policy Rdonation . had two stints at UN headquarters in New heavyweight, was the institute’s chief “The issues of disarmament, arms con- York, the second, from 1976 to 1980, as Ca- executive . Mr . Barton retired from the in- trol and non-proliferation are so important nadian Ambassador to the UN . stitute in 1989, three years before the Con- … we need more such studies, and money Those were heady days for Canada . servative government of Brian Mulroney attracts money, so I hope that other poten- From 1977 to 1978, the country had a seat abolished it . tial donors, at Carleton or other institu- on the Security Council, and for a month Though free of formal employment, in tions, will follow suit . Mr . Barton has done in each of those years, Mr . Barton held its his early 70s, he retained membership in a wonderful thing in ensuring that those revolving position of council chair . the Canadian Institute of International Af-

diplomat and international canada 19 Di spatches|WILLIAM BARTON

fairs, a non-partisan discussion group, as well as in the United Nations Association in Canada, a charitable organization seeks to engage the Canadian public in the work of the UN and in international issues . His personal engagement in the world, and especially in the issues that were close to his heart, continued unabated . In 1993, he was made a Member of the Order of Canada . Now 90, he can look back on a full and very long life . “I never had any notion I would live to this age,” he said recently . And while his mind, to be sure, retains an extraordinary clarity, his physical condition in no way denies the accretion of years .

“I think 90 years is enough time – I can tions only expect to see more of the same . But I Na nited U would like to keep living so I can build up my estate, so the university will get that United Nations Secretary-General Kurt Waldheim with William Barton, who presided over a morning much more benefit ”. meeting of the 33rd regular session of the General Assembly in October, 1978. Nothing morbid in those words . He speaks with a straightforward simplicity, Muslim nations, but I think their societ- came with real spine, Mr . Eastham recalls . free of rancor and bombast . He is still the ies have been more primitive, more like “Certainly, he’s a man of peace, but he’s old-school diplomat . Europe in the 15th Century, and they will well grounded in the art of war and of as- have more catching up to do . serting your rights as a country . He’s no r . Barton believes that ethnicity, “But I hope in time we will all recog- pushover, though he usually pursues his religion and economics have al- nize that we have to live together and aims in a multilateral approach that takes ways been the cause of conflict work together on this planet . into account objectives shared with other inM the world . “But who knows? When the future countries ”. “The problem is that we’re always comes, it never looks the way we expect His predecessor in Geneva was the late saying, ‘Our group comprises all the real it to ”. George Ignatieff, father of the Liberal MP people – and all the other groups are and leadership contender Michael Ignati- something else . mong his foreign postings, Mr . eff . “The contrast with Ignatieff was great . “It’s fear of ‘the other,’ I suppose . If Barton spent four years, from Ignatieff was more flamboyant and more someone has a different cultural back- 1972 to 1976, in Geneva . He served of a character . Bill was quiet; Bill never ground or different religion, we don’t Athere as ambassador to the European took anybody by storm ”. count them as being fully human . office of the UN, to the Disarmament “And economic differences lead to con- Conference, and to the office of the Gen- r . Barton was born in Win- flict between those who have and those eral Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (the nipeg in December 1917 . At who don’t have ”. GATT, now subsumed into the World age 4, his family moved to Is there hope for a more peaceful fu- Trade Organization) . MVancouver, where he lived most of the ture? For part of that time, his second-in- time until his graduation from the Uni- “I don’t know, but I think so . As we get command was Percy Eastham, now living versity of British Columbia in 1940 . His more civilized, we seem more tolerant of in retirement in British Columbia . father was an accountant, his mother a differences of culture or ethnicity or creed . “Bill was a wonderful friend and man housewife . “As for the economic differences, we but also an excellent boss,” Mr . Eastham The Great Depression arrived when he can hope that technological progress will recalled in a recent interview . “You could was only 12, and he remembers the family help us even out the inequities ”. go to him when needed, but he expected being poor but never deprived . He cites the United States as a nation you to run your part of the show . He didn’t “I can remember my father coming that has obviously made great progress in try to second-guess you particularly ”. home the odd time and saying we had the past five decades . He was also a quick study . Mr . Eastham 10 dollars to last a whole week,” he says . “There’s far more respect for women was impressed by how quickly Mr . Barton “But he never complained and we always and for black people than we could have came up to speed on the intricacies of the had the essentials . The things we didn’t imagined just after the Second World War . GATT discussions . have, we never missed ”. And this kind of improvement I think is “The intellect is very fine, and when- Every summer, he enjoyed family va- happening in many parts of the world ”. ever I’ve been in discussion groups with cations at Boundary Bay, on a peninsula He’s less sanguine about prospects for him, he’s kept up with the best of them, of land south of Surrey over which the resolving the psychological separation be- always offering an insightful analysis ”. American border runs . tween the West and much of the Muslim Mr . Barton’s concern for weapons con- “For a month, we would stay in a world . trol and non-proliferation betrayed great rather ramshackle cottage – really, more “I don’t know that much about the concern for people, but the compassion shack than cottage – and my father would

20 may—june 2008 LIFE & TIMES|Di spatches

the most prominent and respected of Ca- nadian diplomats .

etired diplomat Paul Lapointe was Mr . Barton’s deputy at the United Nations from 1976 to 1979 . He be- Rlieves his effectiveness was the product of his industry, humility and willingness to deflect attention . “There are a lot of divas around the UN, but that was never Bill’s style,” he recalls . “He was the grinder, the guy who did his homework, the unassuming guy who was always ready with whatever was needed – the right words in a document, the right strategy, whatever . He was especially ef- tions fective in small groups, which is where Na most of the work at the UN is done ”. nited U (Almost all UN work is done behind Foreign Affairs Minister Maxime Bernier met Mr. Barton at a Carleton University event in Ottawa, after the scenes . By the time public presenta- Mr. Barton made his bequest. tions are made, agreements have been worked out and the public statements are drive back and forth each weekend from gas warfare . almost never a surprise to any diplomat ). the city ”. “We were supposed to be in training, “Bill was inconspicuous, but he got The cottage had a wood stove, one tap but our general didn’t think we were the job done . Part of his strength was that with running water, no refrigerator, and ready for full deployment, so he declared everyone liked him . I don’t know of any- an outhouse in back . that we were protecting Vancouver Is- body who disliked Bill . He was not boast- “We were fine with it,” Mr . Barton says . land . So at night we had a blackout, and ful, people from all delegations considered These were the years of American Pro- we heard rumours of submarines off the him a friend ”. hibition, and on some Fridays there would coast, but nothing ever really happened be excitement, if agents of the U S. . Internal that I know of . It was kind of a joke ”. n his years at External Affairs, Mr . Revenue Service came looking for liquor . In 1942, he was sent to the Suffield Barton got to know quite a few major “A lot of Canadians stayed on the Experiment Station in Alberta, where the Canadian players . American side, and there was no Customs British were leading research on gas war- IWhile he wasn’t impressed by agent, you know – so many Canadians, in- fare . Eventually, he became chief instruc- Trudeau’s feelings on disarmament, Mr . cluding my father, brought liquor in freely, tor of the chemical weapons school . Barton applauds the late prime minister’s in spite of the American Prohibition . After the war ended, the Department of overtures to Cuba, at a time when the “But if the ‘revenuers’ were around, on National Defence invited him to join the United States opposed such amity . Fridays we would have to go to the Cana- newly created Defence Research Board, “I’m no expert on Cuba, but I always dian side and catch my father before he which he joined in 1946 . He quickly rose believed there were only advantages in drove over the border . You wouldn’t want through the ranks, by 1950 becoming the keeping communications open ”. him to bring any booze across ”. board’s secretary . He doesn’t wish to comment upon the As a teenager, Mr . Barton had dreams of In 1952, he was seconded to the Depart- prime ministers who came after his retire- becoming a teacher or a lawyer . In the late ment of External Affairs, which wished ment from External Affairs in 1980 . But he 1930s, he enrolled in an honours course in to tap the scientific knowledge he had does venture an opinion on Conservative English and history at the University of acquired in the previous six years . “I was Prime minister Stephen Harper's govern- British Columbia, where he also served in very quickly wedded to External Affairs, ment’s approach to his old department . the Canadian Officers’ Training Corps . and I joined the department in 1954,” Mr . “My impression is that Stephen Harper When the Commonwealth declared Barton recalls . doesn’t listen very much to the depart- war on Nazi Germany in September 1939, His assignments were a grab bag, ev- ment . He only wants the lines of commu- Mr . Barton, as part of his COTC training, erything from defence liaison with the nication to run from the top downward . was taking a course on gas warfare at Na- United States, to atomic energy, in the But that’s a mistake, I believe . He should naimo . He wanted to join the army, but he spotlight following U S. . President Dwight allow himself to hear the facts of situations had been blind in one eye from birth and, Eisenhower’s “Atoms for Peace” speech as the experts see them . since he was within seven months of earn- at the UN in December 1953, which called “That doesn’t mean that he should do ing his degree, he was advised to return to for the peaceful use of atomic energy to what they suggest – but he needs the ben- university . He graduated in 1940 and then be used peacefully by schools, hospitals efit of hearing another side to the story . It joined the army . But there was no chance and research institutions throughout the can only be to his advantage ”. of the war coming to Bill Barton . world . When the war with Japan broke out in In 1956, Mr . Barton went to Vienna . n September 1947, at Suffield, while December 1941, he was back at Nanaimo, Then came the Geneva and New York working for the Defence Research this time serving as an instructor in anti- assignments that made Mr . Barton one of IBoard, Bill Barton had lunch with diplomat and international canada 21 Di spatches|WILLIAM BARTON

Bill Barton on Today’s World Jeanie Robinson, a young woman he had stump Bill . He even got the question about never met before . Her brother, a scientist which prime minister died in 1917 ”. (For Canada’s involvement in Afghanistan: at Suffield, had suggested a foursome for the record, it was Mackenzie Bowell ). I approach this subject with prejudices, lunch – he and his wife, Mr . Barton and She says when her uncle goes, as he because the UN and NATO went in there, and I was a UN man, so I’m instinctively in Jeanie . one day must, one of the things she’ll favour of our being there. “I can’t tell you what exactly appealed most miss is his sense of humour . “He’s I don’t think we should assume that the to me – I just liked her, everything,” Mr . had that wonderful career, and how does Taliban will never change, and once we Barton recalls . “She was clever, a good he think about it? Well, several times he’s leave, they’ll just take the country over housewife, and a very good cook,” he described it as ‘40 years of undetected again. adds, laughing . crime ’. The Taliban is subject to change, just as That first meeting was in September, “You can’t top a guy like that ”. we are. they were engaged in October, and mar- We should be talking to the Taliban. We ried in December . r . Barton’s choice of Carleton should always be talking to the people we are engaging militarily. They could be part She passed away in 1996 . as the recipient of his donation of a political solution. The Bartons had a son, Scott, a nephew required hard thinking . I suspect that there are some people of his wife’s whom they adopted . Scott MUBC, where he graduated nearly 70 among them even now who could be part had Asperger’s syndrome, a mild form of years ago, had given him an honorary of a political solution. autism, and required a lot of attention . degree . And Mount Allison University, They would have to soften some of “But he was a nice kid – I was very in Sackville, N B. ,. also had its claims . His their views, for example, on the oppres- fond of him,” Mr . Barton recalls . Scott, wife had studied there and that university sion of women. who had recently been living in a care cen- had also conferred an honorary doctorate But give them time and I believe that tre, passed away suddenly in 2006, leaving on him . could happen. One thing, however, we must do – and Mr . Barton with no immediate family . The “The thing was that Carleton University that is announce a definite departure date. single upside was that the money he had was in Ottawa, the city where I was living, carefully been saving to provide for Scott’s and Carleton also had more financial need The Iraq War: future care, could now be put to another than the other two . So I decided to put my I didn’t agree with the Americans going use . money where the need was greatest ”. in there in the first place. I didn’t believe He had already created two scholar- He intended to make no stipulation there were weapons of mass destruction. ships at Carleton . Now, he was free to en- about how the money should be used, I thought Cheney and Wolfowitz and large his contribution, an opportunity that since he wanted the university to have Perle and that gang had their own ideas became the Barton Chair at the Norman entirely free rein . “But they talked me into about how things would go. Things turned out differently, but now that they’ve gone Paterson School . this, and I’m delighted by the chair that’s in, the Americans have a responsibility to Jeanie Hicks, who is Jeanie Barton’s been set up ”. the country. They can’t pull out quickly. niece, says she has never understood how That would be disastrous. Mr . Barton, with all his professional du- lora MacDonald was Canada’s sec- The problem is, we don’t know how ties, always managed to make himself so retary of state for external affairs much difference staying there another available for family . – the equivalent of today’s minister month or year or decade might make. Iraq “He, and Jeanie too, were always pres- Fof foreign affairs position – during the is very complicated. ent . I could count on them . When my short-lived government of prime minister I’m torn about what the Americans father died, when I graduated from high Joe Clark in 1979-80 . should do. I do think that if they decide to leave school and university, they were always When the government came in, there relatively soon, they must avoid locking there ”. was never any question of removing him themselves into a definite departure date. Mr . Barton, at one time an inveterate from his position as Canada’s ambassa- That would be crazy. cross-country skier, taught her the sport . dor to the UN, she says . “Because of the For years she has gone to his apartment respect and regard with which the depart- Russia, India, China: on Saturday mornings for waffles and cof- ment and the diplomatic circle viewed I don’t worry about Russia. I don’t think fee and a few hours of reading newspapers him, we certainly decided to continue him they have aggressive intentions. I do think together . She remembers a long discussion in place ”. they’re flexing their muscles, as all power- she once had with him about how she was She says one of the funniest incidents of ful nations do, to make sure they get the recognition they think they deserve. considering changing professions . her life occurred in Mr . Barton’s company . I think Putin believes Russia is acting as “Bill didn’t really say anything . He Pope John Paul II came to the UN to make a force for good in the world. asked a few questions and listened . He a speech, Ms . MacDonald went to New China is becoming far stronger eco- made no recommendations at all . But at York for the occasion and she and Mr . Bar- nomically, as everyone knows. the end of the discussion, I knew what I ton attended a reception for the pope . And India, with its huge manufacturing was going to do . Certainly, this is a very When they entered the room, the pro- resources, is growing nearly as quickly as wise man ”. tocol officer, recognizing Mr . Barton, in- China is. I don’t think many people are She’s especially impressed by his con- troduced the couple as “The Ambassador aware of that. tinuing clarity of mind . At the recent cel- from Canada, Mr . William Barton, and his I think the influence of these three nations is going to grow at a tremendous ebration of his 90th birthday, guests made wife ”. rate over the next 50 years. We can’t imag- up a list of difficult questions about his This would never do, and they ex- ine the influence they will have. birth year, 1917 . plained the situation . “It was kind of scary . We couldn’t The next introduction was for “Cana-

22 may—june 2008 DISCOVERIES|Di spatches

da’s Foreign Minister and her husband ”. “Well, we all said, ‘no no no ’”. The pope had been hearing all this con- Sharing the wealth fusion about who was married to whom, UBC devises a plan to share drug revenue writes Don Cayo and when the couple, finally properly in- troduced, were presented to him, he said: “Is there something I can do for the two of you?” here is not much value, and usually of new research, the policy will apply only There was another shoe still to fall . even less prospect for future fund- to the new component . It will not retroac- The reception was being broadcast over T ing, in scientific discoveries that just tively affect the existing drug . So a case-by- closed-circuit television, and Mr . Barton sit on the shelf . So the savvier universities case deal will have to be struck with any phoned his wife, herself something of a in Canada have begun to focus ever more company that makes the newer version . joker, to find out if she had been watch- on commercialization – on pushing new The ability to make such practical case- ing . research to the point where it can lure in by-case accommodations is a key feature “Well, she had, and she told him, ‘Don’t a private partner and result in something of the policy, says Barbara Campbell, who speak to me … call my lawyer ’. new to sell . was UBC’s associate director of industry “It was quite a day ”. But what of the old notions of academic liaison when the policy was adopted . idealism? Of the drive to simply make the Indeed, she said, flexibility was pretty or most diplomats, the rewards are world a better place? well the only concern that came up when the knowledge that they are doing There is room for that, too, under a the drug companies that UBC deals with important things, and enjoying a new policy adopted late last year by the were asked to comment on a draft policy Fcertain level of prestige and respect . But industry liaison office of the University of last summer . They wanted such things as few get rich . British Columbia . It commits UBC to en- an option to produce low-cost drugs for For Arthur Menzies, a former ambas- suring any future drug discovery from its poor countries themselves, rather than to sador to China and among Mr . Barton’s researchers and its labs will be accessible automatically license other companies, she friends for nearly six decades, there is to all who need it . This follows the lead of said, and UBC agreed they had a point . No no mystery about Mr . Barton’s financial a handful of elite schools such as Univer- doubt many poor countries would love to achievements . He was always canny about sity of California (Berkeley) and Yale, but get the jobs that would result if low-cost where he put his money . More important, it blazes a new trail for Canadian institu- versions of the drugs can be made locally . the Bartons lived a simple life . tions . Some, like University of Manitoba, But the drug companies have a point in “People who achieve, it often goes have a similar policy for specific projects wanting to retain control . For one thing, to their head and they’re pleased with – sometimes this is a condition of funding they will better able to ensure consistent themselves and always dress and party from outside agencies like the Bill and Me- quality . They may be able to finesse some for the occasion . Not Bill and Jeanie . They linda Gates Foundation – but UBC is the tax benefits at home, as well . dressed well but never ostentatiously . first to adopt it campus-wide . And, as I found out three years ago They were never spenders just for show What will it mean? when I wrote about an immensely suc- purposes ”. The first case where it applies is a con- cessful program to eradicate river blind- Mr . Barton and Mr . Menzies, six months tract with a private company to produce a ness from West Africa, altruism can win older, are two of the oldest surviving newly developed cheap, benign version of an often-maligned drug company some members of the department . “Once you an expensive old drug that’s rife with nasty major points when it comes to both pub- get past 85 or so, you can only hope to still side-effects . For this, all it requires is a sim- lic relations and staff morale . Merck, the have one’s wits . We’ve been lucky ”. ple provision in any contract with a private company that holds the patent to the only partner to ensure it will be made available effective preventative and treatment for here’s no doubting that there’s less at cost in countries where most people can’t this once-widespread disease, has pledged spring in Mr . Barton’s step than afford to pay the usual retail price . to donate as much as is needed for as long there once was . This drug, a replacement for Amphoter- as it is needed to wipe out the disease . Not THis sense of balance is more precarious . icin B or “amp-the-terrible” as it is known only has it, not surprisingly, received some He has sciatica . His good eye is losing out in the lab, can cure lethal fungal infections . positive publicity for this oft-repeated to macular degeneration . Sometimes there In rich countries like ours, it can extend commitment, it has also found it to be an is an annoying ringing in his ears . the life of AIDS or cancer patients, many unexpectedly effective recruitment tool . “I realize that I’m getting to be an old of whom die of fungal infections before Simply put, researchers like to work for a man,” he says . the main disease has a chance to finish company they believe is doing good . But he takes each day as it comes . them off . In poor countries it could be a UBC may gain a similar recruitment ad- And there is that final project – using godsend to the 200 million people a year vantage for being first to the plate with its that failing eye to look out for the best who contract leishmaniasis . This fungus, new policy . I hope it does . But I wouldn’t investment opportunities, so that the final which most rich people have never heard count on it lasting too long . Any edge disbursement to Carleton, when it’s made, of, kills about 500,000 people a year in it gets is likely to be eroded when other is the most generous possible . India alone . universities sign on to similar policies . I His niece’s words were on target: “You For other kinds of discoveries, the con- expect there will be lots of them . I hope it can’t top a guy like that ”. tract details will be a bit more complex . For will be soon . example, if a UBC-discovered drug that is Charles Enman is an Ottawa writer . already on the market is tweaked as a result Don Cayo is a Vancouver writer .

diplomat and international canada 23 DELIGHTS|CRIME w ja oose m unnels of T Al Capone's Canada The Chicago gangster once said he didn't know ‘what street Canada was on’ but the city of Moose Jaw insists he spent time there – and it offers tours of the tunnels he and fellow gangsters allegedly used for rum-running, George Fetherling reports

ir Christopher Ondaatje, the London way, leaving the impression that Capone “Go away, kid .” That much is clear from philanthropist who writes stately was dissing the entire country, which he Mr . Greenaway’s 1966 memoir The News Sbooks of adventure travel, is now was not . Game. John Robert Colombo, the trivia also the author of a semi-memoir entitled In 1931, the year Capone was finally collector, found the line and pasted it into The Power of Paper: A History, A Financial convicted of tax evasion, he was seen more Colombo’s Canadian Quotations (1974) but Adventure, and a Warning (HarperCollins than once at what was then Toronto’s fin- without proper background or set-up . Canada) . It tells how he made his fortune est hotel, the King Edward . Reputable Such is one of the habits that render his as a financier and stockbroker in Toronto . people with no inclination to exaggerate reference books pretty worthless qua refer- In doing so, however, it unintentionally or romanticise had spotted him there . The ence (without preventing them from being repeats an old canard about, of all people, Toronto Daily Star sent one of its report- entertaining pastiches at times) . From Al Capone . Like so many other writers ers, Roy Greenaway, to Chicago to try to there, in any case, the sentence has been and speakers, Sir Christopher reports that confirm or refute these claims . Greenaway quoted and requoted endlessly . Capone once said “I don’t even know put the question to Capone in person . “I That Prohibition-era American gang- what street Canada is on ”. The quotation don’t even know what street Canada is sters had Canadian associations was has often been taken out of context this on” was simply Capone’s way of saying hardly news, then or now . Even the pop

24 may—june 2008 CRIME|DELIGHTS

culture is full of allusions to the fact . In Damon Runyon’s story “Lily of St Pierre” a wounded New York gangster is sent by Montreal associates to the tiny French is- land off Newfoundland to recuperate – in one of the booze-transhipment warehouses owned by… (Mr . Runyon dared not use the family’s name ). People of a certain age will recall Robert Stack as Elliot Ness on the TV series The Untouchables. The show ran from 1959 to 1963 . What seemed to be its signature scene involved Mr . Ness and his men using a truck as a battering ram to break down the doors to some Chicago warehouse . Once the shooting stopped, Mr . Stack would pick up one of the bottles of hooch, hold up the label and say, “Looks like a Canadian print job ”. Or there is that revealing line in The Godfather II in which Lee Strasberg, playing Hyman Roth, the character inspired by Meyer Lansky, tells Michael Corleone how as young men Mr . Roth and Michael’s father “made a for- tune” smuggling Cuban molasses (used to make rum) across the border into Canada in false-bottomed trucks . w That the Prairies were also mixed up in a the phenomenally lucrative bootlegging business is beyond dispute . The historian James H . Gray did much of the spade- unnels of Moose J work in his 1972 book Booze: The Impact of T Whisky on the Prairie West. Peter C . New- A gangster-era still in the 1920s man, focusing more narrowly on one set of individuals, filled in large gaps with his book Bronfman Dynasty (1978) . But Ca- pone, well, that’s a different matter . Or is it? There were Capone sightings not only in Toronto but in Windsor, where it hardly seems out of the question that he would have had business interests in those days . But Moose Jaw? The city of 33,000 in south-central Saskatchewan has built a great deal of tourism traffic by exaggerat- ing what may have been its slight connec- tion to Capone . There is a Big Al’s Café near the bus station and a Capone’s Hide- away Theme Motel down near the now- closed railway station (where trains once connected the city directly to Chicago) . Shops along Main Street, a thoroughfare that is extra wide, pleasant and in no sense manic, sell Capone coffee mugs, Ca- pone tee shirts, and toy tommy guns . Such enterprises aim at the surprisingly large w numbers of people who visit the Tunnels a of Moose Jaw . This is a private business that offers two guided tours deep beneath Main Street, one retelling the story of unnels of Moose J the city’s Chinese community, the other T retailing the unrelated local Al Capone There’s no evidence that Al Capone (above, in hat) – shown speaking to his attorney, William F. Waugh folklore . The former is careful, accurate (right), with an unidentified man – was ever in Moose Jaw but that doesn’t stop the Saskatchewan city and rewarding; the latter is entertaining from using the tenuous connection for tourism purposes.

diplomat and international canada 25 DELIGHTS|CRIME

what proved to be a long complex net- work of brick tunnels . The passageways connect the two sides of Main to River Street, where one of them links a number of buildings said to have been gambling joints and bordellos in the 1920s . In those days the city was run by a notoriously corrupt police chief, the kind whose pres- ence is the first requirement for status as a wide-open town and who did indeed have bootlegging credentials . Of course, such tunnels were not uncommon when hotels and office buildings had steam plants and resident stationary engineers to run them . No doubt they offered protection against the Prairie winters as well, to say nothing of providing a place for Chinese immigrants, most legal but others not, to live, in very poor conditions, and work in the laundry and other businesses located there . The 50-minute tour of this underground Chinatown is played straight and gives people rather a cogent introduction to the racism that the Chinese in Canada endured for so long . The Capone tour of the same length is more about laughs than learning . To be fair, though, the subject is one about which facts are few once one gets away from the Moose Jaw’s demimonde more generally to focus on Capone in particular . After plans for these attractions were announced, old-timers – a former barber who claimed he used to cut Al’s hair, a retired doctor who said he once treated him for tonsillitis – came forward . There was considerable debate about whether Moose Jaw should be calling attention to its seamy past . The pro-tour- ism forces carried the day . Twenty-some w a years ago, before the great commodities boom, Saskatchewan was still a have-not province . Is there any credible evidence that Al unnels of Moose J T Capone was ever in Moose Jaw? Appar- Regina court documents show that Arthur Flegenheimer of New York once brought a suit against Al- ently not . Is there some reason to suppose phonse Capone (middle) – shown with friends, Mike Ahern (right) and Albert Fink – of Chicago seeking that he knew people who knew people compensation for 60 cases of Canadian liquor that turned out to be bad. there? Court documents in Regina show that Arthur Flegenheimer of New York as, in the proprietors’ words, “research Manitou Springs elsewhere in Saskatche- once brought suit in Saskatchewan against tourism” . wan (or for that matter the baths at Bath in Alphonse Capone of Chicago seeking Accidents have played a key role in England) . The well had to be shut down in compensation for sixty cases of Canadian Moose Jaw’s recent economic revitalisa- 1971 . By the end of the following decade, liquor that turned out to be bad . They tion . In 1910, for example, a crew drilling however, a new deeper one was operating . settled out of court and the defendant for natural gas discovered instead a geo- This led to creation of the Temple Gardens refunded the plaintiff’s money . Mr . Flegen- thermal spring a thousand meters under- Mineral Spa Resort in downtown Moose heimer was also known by the cognomen ground . For 25 years, beginning in 1932, Jaw, round which is built a large hotel . Dutch Schultz . Capone must indeed have the spring supplied a spa called the Na- You’ll find it there, directly opposite the known what street Canada is on . But he tatorium with hot water rich in sulphates casino . wasn’t saying . and other minerals, not unlike that found Similarly, in 1985 a hole suddenly at the Banff Hot Springs in Alberta, the opened up on Main Street, gobbling up George Fetherling is a Vancouver novel- Radium Hot Springs in B C. . or indeed the a passing truck and revealing the first of ist and commentator .

26 may—june 2008 WINE|DELIGHTS

The low-down on Prince Edward County grapes

eople often ask me about local came from this part of To listen to Mr . Hardie, Prince Edward wines . With its relatively mild cli- the world, back in the County is the next Burgundy – weather Pmate due to the moderating effect day . This soil offers a and critics be damned . Take a (short) drive of the large and deep Lake Ontario just mineral-rich flavour to the limestone coasts of Lake Ontario to the North, the Niagara Peninsula is and silky texture that is one beautiful summer day, meet the grow- in many ways the perfect place to grow quite captivating . ers in your neighbourhood over a glass of grapes in Ontario . Many professional Waupoos winery their finest Pinot Noir and you might just wine folks initially scoffed at the idea STEPHEN BECKTA was the first to plant agree . of seriously growing grapes in Niagara grapes in the county due to the harsh winter climate, but the back in 1993 . It also opened the first Cheers! wine industry that is now flourishing winery in 2001 . Until recently Waupoos there, along with the many award-wining specialized in hybrid grape varietals that Stephen Beckta is owner and sommelier bottles that have been produced, have are more winter-hardy but yield lesser of Beckta dining & wine . proven the skeptics wrong . wines than traditional grapes like Pinot Now, there is a new frontier even Noir and Chardonnay . closer to home that has similar skeptics Since Waupoos launched, 13 more scoffing – Prince Edward County . wineries have opened up in the county A GUIDE TO STEPHEN BECKTA’S Located at the northern tip of Lake with the best being Huff Estates, Clos- PRINCE EDWARD CO. WINES Ontario near the sleepy town of Picton, sen Chase, Sandbanks, Rosehall Run and this area is much colder than Niagara . Norman Hardie . Almost everyone brings It’s so cold, in fact, that it is considered in grapes from Niagara to supplement Closson Chase Vineyards suicide by most growers not to bury the their meagre production, at least for the 629 Closson Road canes of their vines in the ground every moment . Hillier, Ontario fall to prevent total loss due to the ex- Personally, I see nothing wrong with [email protected] treme winter conditions . This process is this practice if the wines are bottled sepa- (613) 399-1418 called “hilling up” and is required for rately and marketed as such . Many win- Toll Free: 1-888-201-2300 areas that regularly get winter tempera- eries, however, choose to blend Niagara tures in the -25 Celsius range . At -21 Cel- juice with PEC juice and call their wines Closson Chase Vineyards calls itself a sius, most grape vines lose the primary “Ontario”, which I believe hurts their up- reflection of the true nature of Prince node on the cane, affecting production and-coming brand . Edward County. This winery is housed in the following growing season . At Last year was the first that winer- in a heritage barn. The wine-makers -26 Celsius, growers can lose the whole ies could put the designation “Prince use “centuries-old European traditions bud and the vine will quickly die due to Edward County” on their labels, having to create exceptional quality Pinot frostbite . And to make it just a little more recently been accredited VQA status as Noir and Chardonnay.” They hold daily challenging, most grapes need to be net- an official wine-growing region . They tastings and are open from Tuesday to ted in mid-August to prevent the local needed to grow 500 tonnes of grapes Sunday, May through October. robins from making off with the whole locally in order to get the designation, harvest in their cute little beaks . There and this small group of wineries is very Huff Estates Winery are not many areas in the world that proud . But to me, the gem in the lot has 2274 County Rd. 1 people would be crazy enough to put up to be Norm Hardie . Not only are his (NW corner of Hwy 62 & Cty. Rd. 1) with these hardships and dangers in or- wines the standouts in terms of quality Bloomfield, Ontario der to try to grow wine grapes . Why do and price, but he has the depth of experi- (613) 393-5802 it? Why not jut go two or so hours south ence to be able to mentor many winemak- where things are proven and the weather ers in the county to their full potential . Huff Estates Winery bills itself as a is so much nicer, you ask? The answer is Mr . Hardie spent six years traveling the producer of wines that express the limestone . world’s great wine regions, many times finest terroir. “With two separate Considered the gold standard of sleeping on floors and working for little or vineyards growing Merlot, Cabernet grape-growing soils, limestone makes up no money in order to learn his craft from Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, our the bulk of the Cote d’Or in Burgundy, the best growers and winemakers . He also goal is to capture the essence of the the spiritual home of Pinot Noir and spent seven years as sommelier at the es- soils and meso-climates of this unique Chardonnay . Prince Edward County is teemed Truffles Restaurant at the Toronto region.” It specializes in Bordeaux and the only moderately temperate place in Four Seasons Hotel, which gave him a Burgundy wines. Canada with a bunch of limestone . Actu- incredible palate and broad consumer per- ally, most of the limestone that makes spective . All this makes for a huge fish in a up our Parliament Buildings in Ottawa very small pond .

diplomat and international canada 27 DELIGHTS|WINE

Norman Hardie 1152 Greer Rd. Hillier, Ontario (613) 399-5297

Norman Hardie selected his location for the combination of great soil, the micro-climate and the gently sloping topography. He honed his wine skills working around the world and focuses on small batches of high-quality wines. “The vines are from France. The limestone soil is in Southern Ontario. The taste and nose are from me. I invite you to experience my experience.” No Extra Fees for Diplomats - Rosehall Run Vineyards Inc. 1243 Greer Road Wellington, Ontario Diplomats and embassy employees For your personal consultation please call: [email protected] may exchange their personal cheques Marie Boivin (613) 399-1183 without paying extra fees. Accu-Rate Managing Director Corporation specializes in electronic and 613-596-5505 ext. 101 Rosehall Run Vineyards produces fine cheque payments in over 55 currencies.  [email protected] wines, grown and produced with artisanal spirit. “Rosehall Run wines embody a passion for excellence, creativity and Accu-Rate Corporation World Exchange Plaza ingenuity in winemaking while fulfilling Accu-Rate Corporation the promise of Prince Edward County’s 2573 Carling Ave. 111 Albert St. distinctive limestone soil.” Foreign Exchange & International Payment Services www.accu-rate.ca (613) 596-5505 (613) 238-8454 Sandbanks Estates Winery 17598 Loyalist Parkway Wellington, Ontario [email protected] Dare to Volunteer Abroad (613) 399-1839 • Business Development Sandbanks Estates Winery claims its wines • Social Economy are crafted in small batches from grapes • Agriculture that are handpicked from its own vineyard. • Education “Our winemaking technique includes and more! Get Involved! aging our wines in French and American Short and long-term oak. Sandbanks Estate wines are a labour assignments of love and created for your enjoyment.” in 13 countries. [ [email protected] ] Waupoos Estates Winery 3016 County Road #8 Photo: Myriam Fehmiu, Uniterra Volunteer www.uniterra.ca Waupoos, Ontario [email protected] (613) 476-8338 Diplomat and International Canada delivers a unique and influential audience in the national’s capital. The Waupoos Estates Winery has a If you’re thinking of advertising, give us a call. tasting bar, boutique and lakeside restaurant. “Offering a variety of We offer reasonable rates well-balanced, aromatic wines, we are for an exceptional readership. proud to be considered pioneers in the industry. Our winery, created out Please contact: of natural limestone, will become an Neil Reynolds, Donna Jacobs, important landmark in the area, but publisher asssociate publisher it is the heart and soul of the people [email protected] [email protected] involved in our development that will Phone:(613) 259-2570 have truly become a cherished part of Fax: (613) 259-5481 Prince Edward County’s heritage.”

28 may—june 2008 DELIGHTS|Books

A rock and a hard place

Why peace eludes all efforts in the Middle East by George Abraham

here are those who believe that Now, with the American administration most free, their society the most civil, in September 11 would never have on the cusp of a diplomatic “surge” in the the whole neighbourhood . Thappened had Jan . 2, 2001 ended region, Canada is largely missing in action • And, lastly, Egypt’s President Hosni on a positive note . On the table was a set after spearheading multilateral negotia- Mubarak has ruled with the iron fist of of ideas developed by then U S. . President tions on the issue of Palestinian refugees in emergency laws ever since Sadat was as- Bill Clinton: a Palestinian state in all of the 1990s . Here are some recent attempts sassinated in 1981 . Gaza and most of the West Bank, with a to explore the Middle East conundrum . In a book featuring long interviews capital in East Jerusalem, international with people from around the region, Ms . buffer troops to guarantee its sovereignty, Wright offers this insight from the ruler of and an unlimited right of return for Pales- Qatar, Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa al-Thani: tinian refugees to the nascent nation . “To get people to accept a constitution, The U .S . president’s proposals – that or the idea of voting, took us time . Some have almost universally been described people didn’t see it as important .” This as unprecedented both before and after contradicts the western belief that all they were first articulated – had already people desire democracy and would fight been accepted by Israeli Prime Minister for it if only we stood by them . In the final Ehud Barak, and, with just 17 days left in analysis, though, the author brands most office, Mr . Clinton had waited 10 days to of the so-called democratizing changes hear from the Palestinian side . This was to in recent years as “participatory despo- be the departing U S. . president’s abiding tism” and concludes that the “American contribution to world peace, but it ended experiment” of spreading democracy via with a historic equivocation: “La-Na’am,” the invasion of Iraq has proved “counter- in the words of an American mediator in Robin Wright, Dreams and Shadows: The productive ”. the talks, Arabic for a simultaneous yes Future of the Middle East, Penguin Press, and no . 2008, 465 pages Dennis Ross, the tireless American With three decades of experience in the mediator who worked under presidents Middle East, this veteran American jour- George Bush, Sr . and Mr . Clinton, in a re- nalist appears to have begun writing the cent book tells the world starkly who was book on an optimistic note . It was written responsible for missing the opportunity in the wake of three “seminal” events in for peace and locking in a root cause for 2005 and 2006: the assassination of former terrorism . “Only one leader was unable or Lebanese prime minister Rafik Hariri and unwilling to confront history and mythol- the forced exit of Syria from that nation; ogy: Yasir Arafat ”. The Palestinian leader, a sham referendum in Egypt and the who died in 2004, wanted more time and resulting street demonstrations; and the clarifications on Mr . Clinton’s take-it-or- election of the radical Hamas movement leave-it proposal, leading to a collapse of as the governing force in the Palestinian the talks and the offer being removed from territories . the table . The eight million disenfranchised Ms . Wright captures the Middle East’s Dennis Ross, The Missing Peace: The Inside people whose cause he championed with a many ironies that partly explain why Story of the Fight for Middle East Peace, mix of peacemaking and violence are no peacemaking has always found stony Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 2004, 840 pages closer to gaining a homeland than in 2001 . ground: Mr . Ross remains the standard bearer Why has the Palestinian-Israeli conflict • The elections that brought Hamas to when it comes to Middle East mediation, stuck in the throat of the world for 60 power in early 2006 were the most cred- despite persistent misgivings throughout years? That’s a six-decade period that saw ible yet, but many nations cut off relations his 12-year stint (1988-2000) that the U .S . colonization end, the Cold War peak and with the new government, Canada being and he himself were less than “honest bro- then disappear into the mist of history, and the first . kers .” He writes, “My being Jewish gave a plethora of new nations born from the • The Muslim Brotherhood, still sturdy Palestinians, and Arabs more generally, economic and philosophical wreckage of since its conception in 1928, remains the a ready-made handle to explain publicly the Soviet Union and Yugoslavia . Yet the best organized political movement in the why America was not following its ‘inter- Palestinian tragedy continues . Former Brit- region, yet is banned as a terrorist orga- ests’ in the Middle East ”. ish prime minister Tony Blair, appointed nization in the two nations where it had The envoy delivers an insider account to his role last year as special envoy to the established a forceful presence, Egypt and of high-stakes diplomacy and he was pro- Middle East, is another in a parade of in- Syria . phetic when he offered this prognosis after ternational heavyweights who have tried • Lebanon’s politics have long been a Arafat’s thumbs down on Jan . 2, 2001: to make peace in the region and failed . dysfunctional mess, yet its people are the “The game was over . For the foreseeable

diplomat and international canada 29 DELIGHTS|Books

future, it would be necessary to switch sor at McGill University, Rex Brynen, who gears; we would be out of the peacemak- says that Canada failed to follow through ing business and back to a preoccupation on its outstanding work on the refugee file with crisis prevention and the defusing of in the early 1990s . Suffering from an “in- conflict ”. grained lack of adventurism,” Mr . Brynen This provokes the question of why the argues that Canadian diplomats should Americans have remained the only cred- have worked more closely with Mr . Ross ible interlocutor between the Palestinians and the Clinton administration in the and the Israelis, a question that hovers 1999-2000 period to help prepare for the s over the next book . negotiations that eventually collapsed on Jan . 2, 2001 . e t The book breaks new ground by includ- v n

ing the perspective of two academics on l

the role of Canada’s Jewish and Arab com- a munities in the crafting of foreign policy . i E

While describing “societal input” as one ec among many factors at play, they see this Sp sort of advocacy as an inevitable part of a global shift toward identity-based politics .

“Canadian international policy should be a informed by the values, ideas, and pref- erences of Canadians themselves, rather

than just determined by political leaders ental.c on the advice of a professional public Paul Heinbecker and Bessma Momani service .” Those “Canadians themselves” (editors), Canada and the Middle East: emphatically include those of Jewish and In Theory and Practice, Centre for Arabic backgrounds, in the view of con- .partytimer International Governance Innovation (CIGI) tributing writers Brent E . Sasley and Tami and Wilfrid Laurier University Press, 2007, Amanda Jacoby . www 232 pages But this lobbying on behalf of “kin 613.745.9400 If Norway can play a bridging role states” by Canadians makes it harder in the most intractable of trouble spots, for Ottawa to lead a diplomatic effort to why not Canada? (The Oslo Accords mollify the issues that divide Palestinians Apartment living between Israel and the Palestinians were from Israelis, says Mr . Brynen . This study made easy shepherded behind-the-scenes by Nor- of all aspects of Canada’s diplomacy in the way, among other diplomatic initiatives region is a must-read for anybody who vertica.ca in Guatemala and Sri Lanka ). This timely sees a natural role for Pearsonian bridge- book shows that the response depends on building in the Middle East . As the McGill whom you are asking . The best perspec- professor argues, Canada has “ample rea- tive comes from a political science profes- son to keep trying ”.

Related Reading

Kingmakers (Hardcover) Impossible Peace: Israel/Palestine Since by Karl Meyer (W.W. Norton) 1989 (Hardcover) A narrative history tracing today's by Mark Levine (Zed Books) troubles back to grandiose imperial over- This account of the peace process shows reach of Great Britain and the United how by learning from history it may be States possible to avoid the errors long doom- ing peace in the region. The Epicenter of Crisis: The New Middle East (Paperback) The Much Too Promised Land: America’s by Alexander T. J. Lennon (Editor) Elusive Search for (MIT Press) Arab-Israeli Peace (Hardcover) The book argues that six contiguous by Aaron David Miller (Bantam) states epitomize the security challenges An insider’s view of the peace process of a post-9/11, globalized world: Saudi from a place at the negotiating table, Arabia, Syria, Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan, filled with stories and behind-the-scenes and Pakistan. anecdotes.

30 may—june 2008 A true steakhouse with a live charcoal grill and in-house butchers

DOWNTOWN: 327 Elgin St., 613-233-7111 - WEST: 3817 Richmond Rd., 613-828-8349 www.alssteakhouse.ca *Free parking available at both locations DELIGHTS|residences

Malaysians’ home reflects their energy

High Commissioner Dennis Ignatius and his wife, Cherry, make people feel at home in their Rockcliffe abode

By Margo Roston ilson W nne a y D ll photos: a

The receiving rooms at the residence of Malaysian High Commissioner Dennis Ignatius and his wife, Cherry, are warm and welcoming. In these rooms, they pulled up the wall-to-wall carpeting and installed hardwood made of merbau, a tree indigenous to the Asia Pacific.

hen you hang up your coat tennis club, enjoys cross-country skiing on commissioner . in the foyer of the home of MacKay Lake not far from his Mariposa Built in 1930, the house is surrounded WMalaysia’s High Commissioner Road house, and goes out cycling . by a high cedar hedge, keeping it hidden Dennis Ignatius and his wife, Cherry, you Along with the formal trappings at from passing traffic and students at Ash- can’t help but notice the tubes of tennis their Rockcliffe Tudor-style house, there bury College across the street . The Ma- balls stashed on the shelf . are buckets full of bright red geraniums in laysian government established its high They say something about the people the entranceway and photographs of their commission in 1957, bought the Rockcliffe who live here and sure enough, once daughters in the study . The aromatic scent property and renovated it between 1978 through the door, you meet an experi- of Malaysian curry puffs spices the air . and 1981, and then moved from its former enced, warm, active diplomatic couple . “When people come to our house, we location in Alta Vista . Mr . Ignatius plays at the New Edinburgh want them to feel at home,” says the high The focal point of the nearly 900-

32 may—june 2008 DELIGHTS|residences

The dining room is accented in blue and has a cozy fireplace. Mr. and Mrs. Ignatius

Guests are invited to sign a book at this table, next Lilies dress up the Ignatius’s table. to the Malaysian flag. square-metre house is the reception area, high commissioner . a contemporary room with tall windows Central to the reception room is a floor- and patio doors opening onto a south- to-ceiling stone fireplace that divides the facing garden . Beige walls with white room into two areas, both filled with trea- trim act as the perfect foil for the floors, a sures, many of them collected from their project tackled by the couple when they 36 years in diplomatic posts from China to arrived in Ottawa in 2001 . They pulled up South America . the wall-to-wall carpeting and installed Silk carpets and teak and marble furni- hardwood floors made of merbau, a tree ture from China are combined with pieces indigenous to Asian Pacific rainforests . “It of Malaysian pewter, and batik art by Lee Upstairs, the residence has four bedrooms and a gives the house a richer feeling,” says the Joo For . On the day we visit, Mrs . Ignatius family room.

diplomat and international canada 33 DELIGHTS|residences

Comfort lives in the Market. Choose furnished or unfurnished suites.

Live in the heart of Ottawa’s ByWard Market. You’ll be central to everything, while feeling hidden away from the downtown crowds. Be at home in one of our furnished or unfurnished rental suites with granite countertops, solid maple cabinetry and air conditioning. Or mix with your neighbours on the rooftop terrace, in the lounge or any of the local restaurants and cafés. All this is Market Living at Clarendon Lanes.

Visit our Resident Service and Leasing Centre at 24 York Street. Ask about our furnished suites and experience the best of Market living in Ottawa. The home is filled with treasures collected over 613 728 8549 their 36-year life as diplomats.

is wearing a traditional Malaysian outfit To discover Clarendon Lanes and other Vertica rental – a silk batik sarong, a matching batik properties in Ottawa please visit us at vertica.ca kebaya or traditional blouse, and a beaded chiffon selendang or long scarf . The main floor also has a comfortable small study and a large dining room ac- cented in blue, with a cozy fireplace . There are four bedrooms and a family room up- stairs and two staff bedrooms downstairs . At formal dinners, guests dine off a His Excellency Omar Samad dark blue, gold trimmed dinner service Ambassador of Afghanistan to Canada with the gold crest of Malaysia . Mrs . Igna- Hilton Lac-Leamy Hotel, Gatineau, Québec (Free outdoor parking) tius runs the house and entertains with the Tuesday, May 13, 2008 help of two live-in staff . They have enough entertainment space for a large crowd . “We had 300 people to a Christmas Edward Greenspon party,” she recalls . She also likes her Editor-in-chief of The Globe and Mail menus to combine western food with The Globe and Mail - the next 164 years Malaysian specialties . Satay with pea- Thursday, June 12, 2008 nut sauce, spring rolls and salmon with curry spices are among the favourites she Luncheons are held at 12:15 p.m. serves . in the Ballroom of the The couple will be retiring soon from Fairmont Château Laurier Hotel, diplomatic life (with several pieces of Inuit 1 Rideau Street, art added to their international collection) . unless otherwise noted. With daughters and grandchildren in the U .S ., they say they won’t be going home to Malaysia, but haven’t decided exactly where they will settle down . There’s no doubt, though, that their easy-going enthusiasm makes it clear they are looking forward to many more miles of travel together .

Margo Roston is Diplomat’s culture editor .

34 may—june 2008 HISTORICA|DELIGHTS

Stick ‘em up!

Meet a gentleman bandit named Bill Miner

By Laura Neilson Bonikowsky

he masked man waited as the thing of a folk train chugged away from Mission hero, viewed as a TJunction Station . Billowing steam charming bandit disturbed the thick fog as the locomotive lending colour to pushed through the dark of night . The Canadian history . fog gave perfect cover as the man and But Miner was two accomplices sneaked onto the train . inept, better at prison breaks than rob- His breath was warm inside his mask as bery . He was caught often and escaped he climbed over the wood tender . The almost as often . He began his criminal engineer, busy at his controls, was com- career in 1866 by robbing a Wells Fargo Gifts for All pletely unaware of his assailant until the stagecoach, netting $75,000 and the Occasions man grabbed him, pressing a pistol’s attention of the Pinkerton Detective For complete stress-free cold barrel against his temple . The as- Agency, famous for catching hold-up shopping, consider a gift sailant spoke with a southern drawl: “I men . The agency would add him to its certificate. want you to stop the train at Silverdale list of successes and later would assist 20% off esthethic services crossing . Do what you are told and not a the B .C . provincial police with its first Tuesdays and Wednesdays hair of your head will be harmed .” train robbery investigation . The engineer, Nate Scott, replied, “I Miner remained unrepentant, despite Free infrared sauna with all RMT massages am at your service,” and eased back the several incarcerations, including three throttle . The train wheezed to a stop . The sentences served in the notoriously bru- 373 St. Laurent Blvd 613-746-3500 masked man pushed the fireman, Harry tal San Quentin prison, escaping only to www.celadonspa.ca Freeman, off the train, instructing him to be recaptured . His third San Quentin im- HAIR • SKIN • BODY • NAILS “Uncouple the train at the express car, prisonment amounted to 19 years, five please .” The second man jumped into months, 27 days . The Gentleman Bandit the cab, pointing a rifle at Scott’s face . walked out for the last time on June 17, The third man headed for the express 1902, aged 54 . car, where Herbert Mitchell stood watch . During his extended stay at San After threatening to blow the door with Quentin, stagecoach hold-ups had dynamite, the robber assured Mr . Mitch- changed . The express cars of trains had ell: “Cooperate and no harm will come replaced stagecoaches for shipping to you .” The trio of bandits then grabbed valuables . He emulated desperado John the cargo and rushed off, offering a po- Chapman’s effective method for train lite “Goodnight, boys” to their victims . robbing . Miner’s first train hold-up was It was September 10, 1904; Bill Miner in Oregon in 1903; he bungled the job, and his accomplices had just made his- blowing apart the baggage car, not the tory – Canada’s first train robbery . Miner express car . He escaped but his accom- chose the CPR Transcontinental Express plices were arrested . No . 1 because it was scheduled to carry After the 1904 CPR robbery, Miner lay $62,000 of Cariboo gold to Vancouver . low, living quietly near Princeton, B .C . A last-minute delay put the bullion on On May 8, 1906, he hit the CPR again, a later train . Nevertheless, the three got near Kamloops, in a comedy of errors . away with $6,000 in gold dust, $1,000 Miner again attacked the baggage car cash and several registered letters and instead of the express car, which was parcels, unknowingly taking $50,000 in still attached to the train he’d told the U .S . bonds and $200,000 in Australian engineer to take down the tracks . He securities . searched the baggage car, overlooking Born in Bowling Green, Kentucky, a shelf holding $40,000 packets of bank circa 1847 (how he reported his birthdate notes, making off with $15 and a hand- depended on his mood), Bill Miner was ful of liver pills . He was caught and sen- raised to have manners, and became tenced to life imprisonment in B .C ., but known as the Gentleman Bandit . He escaped and fled to the States, where he gained some popularity in Canada for resumed his “career .” his daring attacks on the unpopular CPR . Immortalized in the loosely histori- Laura Neilson Bonikowsky is the associ- cal 1982 film Grey Fox, Miner is some- ate editor of The Canadian Encyclopedia.

diplomat and international canada 35 DELIGHTS|ENTERTAINING

Entertaining's other bookend

o ensure easy and successful en- memories . Sandwiches, Ginger Chocolate Coins and tertaining, I have a list of reliable, Having already dealt Maple Marzipan Pearls . Twell-tested tips . To begin, I believe with hors d’oeuvres Most often, I offer a variety of home- that in order for hosts to be relaxed and (in the Nov-Dec 2006 made chocolates spilling out of a decora- enjoy themselves, they must strive to issue), let’s explore tive ethnic box . Indeed, this is the perfect make entertaining personal, doable and the latter concept . We (or only) opportunity to put some of those memorable . Achieving the first two ele- never miss serving dust collectors to practical use . ments may be obvious, but what about chocolates with coffee But before being carried away by a Margaret the third? How does one make an event Dickenson after a meal (be it for- seductive wave of decadent "homemade" memorable? mal or casual), or sim- chocolates, let’s remain focused . The key For guests (children included), an oc- ply as the last item at a tea, drinks, cocktail message is that a finishing touch (usu- casion has a good chance of being memo- or garden party . Even though guests might ally interpreted to be a chocolate), really rable if they are treated like VIPs . And vow that they could not eat another bite, should be included in the menu regardless what better way to make guests feel like their hands automatically reach for the of the occasion . Homemade or commer- very important people than to offer a tasty treats . Everyone likes one last sweet taste cial, it really does not matter . With a clever hors d’oeuvre as well as a prompt drink and anything chocolate is a huge hit . presentation, all chocolates can be made to shortly after their arrival and then, to pres- My homemade chocolates are defi- look tempting . ent them with chocolates or some sort of nitely popular . Guests love them and I When it comes to finishing touches, finishing touch before they leave? Voilà! love making them . Making batches of my my imagination goes wild . There is no Those are my bookends to easy and suc- own original creations, as well as coming need to be limited to the traditional cessful entertaining . up with new combinations, is exhilarat- chocolates . Although Ginned Dates (see In our home, regardless of the type ing, relaxing and even therapeutic . Most March-April 2004 issue), Marzipan Mini of event (dinner, lunch, BBQ, tea, drinks of my recipes are simple and fail-proof, Fruit and Cream Cheese Strawberries are party or reception), these two components and can be prepared in minutes . Many included in my menu finale, I also like are always on the menu . Their value in include dried fruit, nuts and ginger . They fruit and chocolate "duets" . Imagine the contributing to the overall enjoyment of come in a variety of shapes, textures and intriguing and tasty petite culinary experi- an occasion must not be underestimated . flavours . Each is unique and scrumptious ence that can be loaded on a Saucy White Remember that as much as first impres- – from my international award-winning Chocolate Blueberry Spoon or packed sions count (i .e ., hors d’oeuvres), final Cranberry Nut Clusters (see Jan-Feb 2005 into a Chocolate-Dipped Cherry, a Toffee touches of hospitality also linger in guests’ issue) to my Dark Chocolate Toffee Mint Chocolate-Dipped Strawberry or a Pecan ickenson D rry La

36 may—june 2008 DELIGHTS|ENTERTAINING

Chocolate-Dipped Pear Wedge . (These are all recipes from my cookbooks ). For a special occasion, chocolate-dipped Besfobmjof!pg!epxoupxo/!Tfsfojuz!pg!b!tvjuf/ fruit elevates breakfast to new levels of ap- preciation and fun . A finishing touch ir- resistibly completes the spectrum of tastes ¦!!Epxoupxo!mpdbujpo-!dmptf!up!tipqt!'!buusbdujpot! ¦!!Tqbdjpvt!tvjuft!xjui!gvmm!ljudifot-!fotvjuf!mbvoesz! experienced on any and all menus . ¦!!Gjuoftt!dfousf!xjui!joepps!qppm-!fyfsdjtf!sppn! The recipe below, Toasted Almond ¦!!Dpnqmjnfoubsz!35.ipvs!cvtjoftt!dfousf & Currant Clusters, offers a chic black ¦!!Gsff!mpdbm!dbmmt!'!xjsfmftt!ijhi.tqffe!Joufsofu and white chocolate that has everything Jefbm!gps!tipsu!boe!mpoh!ufsn!tubzt" one could want in a final taste – crunch, chewiness and a rich flavour of fruit, nut and chocolate . Bon Appétit!

Sftfswf!po.mjof;!xxx/mft.tvjuft/dpn!!0!!!241!Cfttfsfs!Tusffu!¦!724.343.3111!¦!2.911.378.2:9:!!! Margaret Dickenson is author of the international award-winning cookbook Margaret’s Table - Easy Cooking & Inspir- ing Entertaining and is creator and host of Margaret’s Entertaining Minutes on Rogers TV . See www margaretssenseofoccasion. . com for more .

Toasted Almond and Currant Clusters Makes about 20 chocolates

3 1/2 oz (100 g) white chocolate, chopped EXPERIENCE L'ART DE VIVRE 1/3 cup (80 mL) currants 1/3 cup (80 mL) toasted slivered almonds

1 . Partially melt chocolate over barely sim- www.signaturesrestaurant.com mering water in a double boiler (or soften 453 LAURIER AVENUE EAST in a microwave oven at medium-low heat) . 613.236.2499 Remove from heat; carefully stir until choc- olate is completely melted and smooth . 2 . Add currants and almonds; combine carefully . Drop clusters of chocolate mixture (about 2 tsp or 10 mL portions) onto a wax paper lined tray . Refrigerate until firm . 3 . Transfer chocolates to an airtight plastic container and store refrigerated for up to several months .

Double Boiler Alternative TIP: Instead of using a double boiler, use a heat proof bowl placed over a saucepan of barely simmering water . CALLIGRAMMES Galerie d’art moderne et contemporain Modern and contemporary art gallery 2 1 w M w u w r r . a c y a , l l O i g t r t a a m w m a , e O s . N c , o K m 1 N g a 9 l l M e r 5 y @ T e c l . a / F l l i a g x r : a 6 m 1 m 3 e 2 s 4 . c 1 o . 4 m 7 3 2

Christian Morrisseau, The Boy Who Grew To Be a Shaman Artist. Norval Morrisseau, (2008)

diplomat and international canada 37 DIGNITARIES|NEW ARRIVALS

New Heads of Mission

Michael D. Smith Dhaka . From 1985 until 1987, he served as High Commissioner for The Bahamas second secretary and then first secretary in Paris . He served as first secretary in Mo- rocco from 1991 to 1993 . For the following three years, he returned to Dhaka as direc- tor of international organizations . For five years, beginning in 1996, he was counselor and minister at the embassy in Washing- ton . On his return to Dhaka in 2001, he be- came chief of protocol . From 2003 to 2006, he was high commissioner to Sri Lanka . From 2006 until he came to Canada, he served as high commissioner to Kenya . Mr . Ali, 55, speaks French and English Mr . Smith comes to diplomacy from and is married with two children . politics . He served as a parliamentary sec- retary (in communications) to the Prime Paulo Cordeiro Pinto Minister’s Office and the ministry of tour- Ambassador of Brazil ism . He was a member of parliament for two terms beginning in 1992 and served as deputy speaker for more than two years . Mr . Smith studied at Minnesota State University and did postgraduate courses at Ryerson University in Toronto, Public Admininistration International in the UK, and at The Irish Management Institute . Prior to his political career, he was a broadcast journalist and served as ex- ecutive chairman of the Broadcasting Corporation of The Bahamas for five and a half years after a 14-year career where Mr . Cordeiro is a career diplomat who has he served as news director and anchor at been posted to Ottawa two previous times . the Corporation . He was founding editor He joined the foreign service in 1979 . of The Bahamas Journal, a daily newspaper He worked at the ministry on the African and hosted a weekly radio and television and Asian desks before becoming the as- program which focused on The Bahamas sistant director for international organiza- in international affairs . tions . In 1985, he worked at the United Mr . Smith is married with two children . Nations offices in Geneva . From 1988 to 1990, he was first secretary at the embassy A.M. Yakub Ali in Bolivia and then served in Ottawa from High Commissioner for Bangladesh 1991 to 1993 . He returned to the ministry for a couple of years before becoming director of strategic studies . From 1997 to 2000, he was a counselor at the United Nations in New York and then became minister-counsellor for two years starting in 2001 . In 2003, he came back to Ottawa as minister-counsellor before being being sent to Haiti as ambassador in 2005 . Mr . Cordeiro Pinto is married to Vera Lucia Ribeiro Estrela de Andrade Pinto and they have three sons .

Mr . Ali joined Bangladesh’s foreign service Rafet Akgünay in 1981 after getting a master’s degree in Ambassador of Turkey arts from Dhaka University in 1975, fol- Mr . Akgünay joined the foreign service in lowed by studies in international politics 1977 after completing a graduate degree . and administration of international orga- Mr . Akgünay’s first posting was to nizations, at the University of Paris . Cyprus as second secretary, and then he In 1976, he became a section officer in served in Tel Aviv, Athens, and Rome

38 may—june 2008 NEW ARRIVALS | DIGNITARIES

Non-Heads of Mission

Afghanistan Ghana South Africa Ghulam Sakhi Atmar Francis Danti Kotia Daisy Ellen Counsellor Minister-Counsellor First Secretary

Algeria Iran Spain Djamal Boutiab Hamidreza Ramezani Eduardo Aznar Campos Minister Second Secretary Deputy Head Of Mission

Angola Japan Ukraine Mario Augusto Yasuo Takamura Igor Timushev Attaché First Secretary First Secretary Emanuel Arsenio De F. Pereira Kazutoshi Nishizawa Third Secretary Second Secretary Vietnam Minh Hanh Nguyen Australia Korea, Republic First Secretary before returning to the ministry in 1985 . Graham Neil Edwards Dongmin Moon Counsello r First Secretary United States of America He worked in several departments at Deokseob Shim Stacy Elizabeth White headquarters including military affairs, Bolivia Minister-Counsellor First Secretary Georgina Zubieta Duran Byung Wook Jo Elisabeth Ferrell Zentos joint security, and policy planning, before Second Secretary Counsellor Second Secretary & Vice-Consul Norval Ernest Francis Jr. being sent to Washington as counsellor Burundi Libya Minister-Counsellor from 1993 to 1997 . On his return to An- Zephyrin Maniratanga Mustafa M.A. Tawil Andrea Jane Parsons kara, he became deputy director general of First Counsellor Counsellor Third Secretary & Vice-Consul the policy planning directorate before be- China New Zealand Vietnam Haitao Pan Sandra Joy Manderson Van Thiem Tran coming chief of staff of the presidency in Attaché Attaché First Secretary 1998 . Two years later, he was sent to China Dominican Republic Panama Ke Tuan Ha as ambassador for a four-year posting . He Glenis Regina Guzman Filipe Omar Elias Castillo Lopez Counsellor Counsellor Counsellor then held a string of senior appointments Eritrea Semere Ghebremariam O. Yemen in Ankara, including chief advisor to the Micael Peru Amatalsalam Ebrahim A. Al-Shami First Secretary Claudia Giuliana Betalleluz Otiura Second Secretary prime ministry and deputy undersecretary Counsellor for political affairs . That job wound down Germany Zimbabwe Rebecca Anna Reichherzer Saudi Arabia Epiphania Kwari in April when he was sent to Canada . Assistant Attaché Mohammed Sulaiman A. Albattah Second Secretary Mr . Akgünay, 54, is married . First Secretary

diplomat and international canada 39 DELIGHTS|envoy’s album

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5. this page 1. Erzsebet Fenyvesi, wife of Hungarian Ambassador Pal Vastagh, hosted a cultural cof- fee morning for the Slavic diplomatic spouses group March 26th. In back, from left: Ulker Shafiyeva (Azerbaijan), Nadija Lupascu (Romania), Ms. Fenyvesi, Viera Opielova (Slovakia), Nada Naseva (Mace- donia). In front: Dalia Baker (Israel). • 2. At the same coffee gathering, from left: Barbara Carriere (Canada), Aleksandra Vujacic (Serbia), Ralitsa Tcholakova (Canada), Tea Kunstelj (Slovenia). (Photos: Ulle Baum) • 3. Netherlands Ambassador Karel de Beer and his wife Margaretha Terlouw hosted a dinner at their residence in March as part of the National Arts Centre fund-raising program, Music to Dine for. Shown here are performers Kerson Leong (violin), Stanley Leong (cello), and their parents, mother, Tu Mach and father, Kin-Wai Leong. • 4. Kuwaiti Ambassador Musaed Al-Haroun (left) in- vited the Arab members of the diplomatic corps to a farewell lunch in March for outgoing Egyptian Ambassador Mahmoud El-Saeed (right) and Saudi Ambassador Abdulaziz Bin Hussein Al-Sowayegh. Mr. El-Saeed retired on his 60th birthday in March and Mr. Al-Sowayegh returned to Saudi Arabia after a two-year mission. • 5. Lithuanian Ambassador Ginte Damusis hosted a national day reception in the salon of the National Arts Centre in February, shortly after she arrived. (Photo: Sam Garcia)

40 may—june 2008 envoy’s album|DELIGHTS

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this page 1. Several embassies took part in the Tourism & Vacation Show at Lansdowne Park April 4-5. Shown at the Czech Republic booth, from left: consul Karel Hejc; Tylka Brozova, assistant to the ambassador, and Ambassador Pavel Vosalik. • 2. Panamanian Ambassador Romy Vasquez attended the launch of the Latin American film festival. (Photo: Lois Siegel) • 3. The launch was hosted by Brazilian Ambassador Paulo Cordeiro Pinto (left) and his wife Anita (middle) at their residence. Film- maker Jean-Daniel Lafond, right, husband of Gov.-Gen. Michaëlle Jean, attended. (Photo: Sgt. Eric Jolin) • 4. Moroccan Ambassador Mohamed Tangi and his wife Alia attended the Governor General’s Awards in Visual and Media Arts reception at the National Gallery March 27. (Photo: Frank Scheme) • 5. The Canadian Federation of University Women’s diplomatic hospitality group had a tour and maple syrup tasting at Stanley’s Olde Maple Lane Farm March 28. Some 135 people went. At the Heritage Sugar Shack, (from left) Ken Stanley shows Erzsebet Fenyvesi (Hungary), Eyad Alawwad, 7, (Saudi Arabia) and Stela Andrei (Romania) how he makes maple syrup. (Photo: Ulle Baum)

diplomat and international canada 41 AFGHANISTAN AUSTRIA BENIN BURUNDI His Ex . Omar Samad His Ex . Otto Ditz His Ex . Honoré Ahimakin Her Ex . Appolonie Simbizi Embassy of the Islamic Republic of Embassy of the Republic of Austria Embassy of the Republic of Benin Embassy of the Republic of Burundi Afghanistan 445 Wilbrod Street 58 Glebe Avenue 325 Dalhousie Street, Suite 815 240 Argyle Street Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6M7 Ottawa, Ontario K1S 2C3 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7G2 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 1B9 TEL 789-1444 FAX 789-3431 TEL 233-4429 FAX 233-8952 TEL 789-0414 FAX 789-9537 TEL 563-4223 FAX 563-4962 Ottawa-ob@bmeia .gv .at ambaben@benin .ca ambabottawa@yahoo .com contact@afghanemb-canada .net http://ambabucanada .le-site .info

c ts con ta www .afghanemb-canada .net AZERBAIJAN BOLIVIA Mr . Farid Shafiyev His Ex . Edgar Torrez Mosqueira CAMEROON ALBANIA Chargé d’Affaires Embassy of the Republic of Bolivia Mr . Martin Agbor Mbeng His Ex . Besnik Konci Embassy of the Republic of Azerbaijan 130 Albert Street, Suite 416 Acting High Commissioner Embassy of the Republic of Albania 275 Slater Street, Suite 904-C Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 High Commission for the Republic 130 Albert Street, Suite 302 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H9 TEL 236-5730 FAX 236-8237 of Cameroon Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 TEL 288-0497 FAX 230-8089 embolivia04@yahoo .com 170 Clemow Avenue TEL 236-4114 FAX 236-0804 Ottawa, Ontario K1S 2B4 embassyofalbania@on .aibn .com BAHAMAS BOSNIA-HERZEGOVINA TEL 236-1522 FAX 236-3885 His Ex . Michael D . Smith His Ex . Milenko Misic ALGERIA High Commission for The Embassy of Bosnia and Herzegovina CHILE His Ex . Smail Benamara Commonwealth of The Bahamas 130 Albert Street, Suite 805 His Ex . Eugenio Ortega Riquelme Embassy of the People’s Democratic 50 O’Connor Street, Suite 1313 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 Embassy of the Republic of Chile Republic of Algeria Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 TEL 236-0028 FAX 236-1139 50 O’Connor Street, Suite 1413 500 Wilbrod Street TEL . 232-1724 FAX 232-0097 embassyofbih@bellnet .ca Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6N2 ottawa-mission@bahighco .com www .bhembassy .ca TEL 235-9940 FAX 235-1176 TEL 789-8505 FAX 789-1406 echileca@chile .ca diplomatic www.embassyalgeria.ca/eng.htm BANGLADESH BRAZIL www .chile .ca His Ex . A .M . Yakub Ali His Ex . Paulo Cordeiro Pinto ANGOLA High Commission for the People’s Embassy of the Federative Republic CHINA His Ex . Miguel Maria N . Puna Republic of Bangladesh of Brazil His Ex . Lu Shumin Embassy of the Republic of Angola 275 Bank Street, Suite 302 450 Wilbrod Street Embassy of the People’s Republic 189 Laurier Avenue East Ottawa, Ontario K2P 2L6 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6M8 of China Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6P1 TEL 236-0138 FAX 567-3213 TEL 237-1090 FAX 237-6144 515 St . Patrick Street TEL 234-1152 FAX 234-1179 bangla@rogers .com mailbox@brasembottawa .org Ottawa, Ontario K1N 5H3 info@embangola-can .org www .bdhc .org TEL . 789-3434 FAX 789-1911 www .embangola-can .org BRUNEI DARUSSALAM www .chinaembassycanada .org BARBADOS Mr . Faizal Bahrin Haji Bakri ARGENTINA His Ex . Glyne Samuel Murray Acting High Commissioner COLOMBIA His Ex . Arturo Bothamley High Commission for Barbados 395 Laurier Avenue East His Ex . Jaime Giron-Duarte Embassy of the Argentine Republic 55 Metcalfe St., Suite 470 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6R4 Embassy of the Republic of Colombia 81 Metcalfe Street 7th Floor Ottawa, Ontario, K1P 6L5 TEL 234-5656 FAX 234-4397 360 Albert Street, Suite 1002 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6K7 TEL 236-9517 FAX 230-4362 bhco@bellnet .ca Ottawa, Ontario K1R 7X7 TEL 236-2351 FAX 235-2659 ottawa@foreign .gov .bb TEL 230-3760 FAX 230-4416 embargentina@argentina-canada .net BULGARIA embajada@embajadacolombia .ca www .argentina-canada .net BELARUS His Ex. Evgueni Stoytchev www .embajadacolombia .ca Mr . Pavel Pustovoy Embassy of the Republic of Bulgaria ARMENIA Chargé d’Affaires 325 Stewart Street CONGO (ZAIRE) Mr . Arman Akopian Embassy of the Republic of Belarus Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6K5 Ms . Louise Nzanga Ramazani Chargé d’Affaires 130 Albert Street, Suite 600 TEL 789-3215 FAX 789-3524 Chargé d’Affaires Embassy of the Republic of Armenia Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 Embassy of the Democratic Republic 7 Delaware Avenue TEL 233-9994 FAX 233-8500 BURKINA FASO of the Congo Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0Z2 belamb@igs .net Her Ex . Juliette Bonkoungou 18 Range Road TEL 234-3710 FAX 234-3444 Embassy of Burkina Faso Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J3 embottawa@rogers .com BELGIUM 48 Range Road TEL 230-6391 FAX 230-1945 www .armembassycanada .ca His Ex . Jean Lint Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J4 Embassy of Belgium TEL 238-4796 FAX 238-3812 COSTA RICA AUSTRALIA 360 Albert Street, Suite 820 burkina .faso@sympatico .ca Her Ex . Emilia Maria Alvarez His Ex . William Fisher Ottawa, Ontario K1R 7X7 www .ambaburkina-canada .org Navarro Australian High Commission TEL 236-7267 FAX 236-7882 Embassy of the Republic of Costa Rica 50 O’Connor, Suite 710 Ottawa@diplobel .org 325 Dalhousie Street, Suite 407 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 www .diplomatie .be/ottawa Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7G2 TEL 236-0841 FAX 236-4376 TEL . 562-2855 FAX 562-2582 www .canada .embassy .gov .au embcrica@travel-net .com www .costaricaembassy .com ­

42 | EMBASSIES | HIGH COMMISSIONS ‑ | OTHER INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES may—june 2008 CÔTE D’IVOIRE Eritrea GREECE INDIA Her Ex . Dienebou Kaba His Ex . Ahferom Berhane His . Ex . Nikolaos Matsis His Ex . Rajamani Lakshmi Narayan Embassy of the Republic of Embassy of the State of Eritrea Embassy of the Hellenic Republic High Commission for the Republic Côte d’Ivoire 75 Albert Street, Suite 610 80 MacLaren Street, Suite 76 of India 9 Marlborough Avenue Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5E7 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0K6 10 Springfield Road Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8E6 TEL . 234-3989 FAX 234-6213 TEL . 238-6271 FAX 238-5676 Ottawa, Ontario K1M 1C9 TEL . 236-9919 FAX 563-8287 embassy@greekembassy .ca TEL . 744-3751 FAX 744-0913 acica@ambaci-ottawa .org ESTONIA www .greekembassy .ca hicomind@hciottawa .ca www .ambaci-ottawa .org Rasmus Lumi www .hciottawa .ca c ts con ta Chargé d’Affaires GUATEMALA CROATIA Embassy of the Republic of Estonia His Ex . Manuel Estuardo Roldán INDONESIA Her Ex . Vesela Mrden Kora´c 260 Dalhousie Street, Suite 210 Embassy of the Republic of His Ex . Djoko Hardono Embassy of the Republic of Croatia Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7E4 Guatemala Embassy of the Republic of 229 Chapel Street TEL . 789-4222 FAX 789-9555 130 Albert Street, Suite 1010 Indonesia Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7Y6 embassy .ottawa@mfa .ee Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 55 Parkdale Avenue TEL . 562-7820 FAX 562-7821 www .estemb .ca TEL . 233-7237 FAX 233-0135 Ottawa, Ontario K1Y 1E5 Croatia .emb@mvpei .hr embassy1@embaguate-canada .com TEL . 724-1100 FAX 724-1105 www .croatiaemb .net ETHIOPIA www .embaguate-canada .com info@indonesia-ottawa .org His Ex . Getachew Hailemariam www .indonesia-ottawa .org CUBA Embassy of the Federal Democratic GUINEA His Ex . Ernesto Antonio Senti Republic of Ethiopia Mrs . Hawa Diakité IRAN Embassy of the Republic of Cuba 151 Slater Street, Suite 210 Counsellor & Chargé d’Affaires Seyed Mahdi Mohebi 388 Main Street Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 Embassy of the Republic of Guinea Chargé d’Affaires Ottawa, Ontario K1S 1E3 TEL . 235-6637 FAX 235-4638 483 Wilbrod Street Embassy of the Islamic TEL . 563-0141 FAX 563-0068 infoethi@magi .com Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6N1 Republic of Iran cuba@embacuba .ca www .ethiopia .ottawa .on .ca TEL . 789-8444 FAX 789-7560 245 Metcalfe Street diplomatic www .embacuba .ca ambassadedeguinee@bellnet .ca Ottawa, Ontario K2P 2K2 EUROPEAN UNION TEL . 235-4726 FAX 232-5712 CZECH REPUBLIC His . Ex . Dorian Prince GUYANA iranemb@salamiran .org His Ex . Pavel Vosalik Delegation of the European His Ex . Rajnarine Singh www .salamiran .org Embassy of the Czech Republic Commission to Canada High Commission for the Republic 251 Cooper Street 45 O’Connor Street, Suite 1900 of Guyana IRAQ Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0G2 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1A4 151 Slater Street, Suite 309 His Ex . Howar M . Ziad TEL . 562-3875 FAX 562-3878 TEL . 238-6464 FAX 238-5191 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 Embassy of the Republic of Iraq ottawa@embassy .mzv .cz delegation-canada@ec .europa .eu TEL . 235-7249 FAX 235-1447 215 McLeod Street www .delcan .ec .europa .eu Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0Z8 DENMARK HAITI TEL . 236-9177 FAX 236-9641 His Ex . Poul Erik Dam Kristensen FINLAND Ms . Marie Nathalie Menos-Gissel media@iraqembassy .ca Royal Danish Embassy His Ex . Pasi Mikael Patokallio Chargé d’Affaires www .iraqembassy .ca 47 Clarence Street, Suite 450 Embassy of the Republic of Finland Embassy of the Republic of Haiti Ottawa, Ontario K1N 9K1 55 Metcalfe Street, Suite 850 130 Albert Street, Suite 1500 IRELAND TEL . 562-1811 FAX 562-1812 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L5 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 His Ex . Declan Kelly ottamb@um .dk TEL . 288-2233 FAX 288-2244 TEL . 238-1628 FAX 238-2986 Embassy of Ireland www .ambottawa .um .dk embassy@finland .ca bohio@sympatico .ca 130 Albert Street, Suite 1105 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 DOMINICAN REPUBLIC FRANCE HOLY SEE TEL . 233-6281 FAX 233-5835 His Ex . Luis Eladio Arias Nunez His Ex . Daniel Jouanneau His Ex . The Most Rev . Luigi Ventura Ottawaembassy@dfa .ie Ambassador Embassy of France Apostolic Nunciature www .embassyofireland .ca Embassy of the Dominican Republic 42 Sussex Drive 724 Manor Avenue 130 Albert Street, Suite 418 Ottawa, Ontario K1M 2C9 Ottawa, Ontario K1M 0E3 ISRAEL Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 TEL . 789-1795 FAX 562-3735 TEL . 746-4914 FAX 746-4786 His Ex . Alan Baker TEL . 569-9893 FAX 569-8673 www .ambafrance-ca .org Embassy of Israel www .drembassy .org HONDURAS 50 O’Connor Street, Suite 1005 GABON Her Ex . Beatriz Valle Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 ECUADOR His Ex . Joseph Obiang Ndoutoume Embassy of the Republic of TEL . 567-6450 FAX 567-9878 Mr . Oscar Felipe Izquierdo Arboleda Embassy of the Gabonese Republic Honduras info@ottawa .mfa .gov .il Chargé d’Affaires 4 Range Road, P .O . Box 368 151 Slater Street, Suite 805 www .embassyofIsreal .ca Embassy of the Republic of Ecuador Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J5 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 50 O’Connor Street, Suite 316 TEL . 232-5301 FAX 232-6916 TEL . 233-8900 FAX 232-0193 ITALY Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 ambgabon@sprint .ca His Ex . Gabriele Sardo TEL . 563-4286 FAX 235-5776 HUNGARY Embassy of the Italian Republic GERMANY His Ex. Pál Vastagh 275 Slater Street, 21st Floor EGYPT His Ex . Matthias Martin Höpfner Embassy of the Republic of Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H9 Mrs . Hala Samir El Bishlawy Embassy of the Federal Republic of Hungary TEL . 232-2401 FAX 233-1484 Chargé d’Affaires Germany 299 Waverley Street ambital@italyincanada .com Embassy of the Arab Republic of Egypt 1 Waverley Street Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0V9 www .italyincanada .com 454 Laurier Avenue East Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0T8 TEL . 230-2717 FAX 230-7560 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6R3 TEL . 232-1101 FAX 594-9330 www .mfa .gov .hu/emb/ottawa JAMAICA TEL . 234-4931 FAX 234-4398 germanembassyottawa@on aibn. com. mission .ott@kum .hu Her Ex. Evadne Coye egyptemb@sympatico .ca Jamaican High Commission www.mfa.gov.eg GHANA ICELAND 275 Slater Street, Suite 800 Her Ex . Margaret Ivy Amoakohene His Ex . Markus Örn Antonsson Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H9 EL SALVADOR High Commission for the Republic Embassy of Iceland TEL . 233-9311 FAX 233-0611 His Ex . Mauricio Rosales Rivera of Ghana 360 Albert Street, Suite 710 hc@jhcottawa .ca Embassy of the Republic of El Salvador 153 Gilmour Street Ottawa, Ontario K1R 7X7 209 Kent Street Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0N8 TEL . 482-1944 FAX 482-1945 JAPAN Ottawa, Ontario K2P 1Z8 TEL . 236-0871 FAX 236-0874 icemb .ottawa@utn .stjr .is His Ex . Tsuneo Nishida TEL . 238-2939 FAX 238-6940 ghanacom@ghc-ca .com Embassy of Japan embajada@elsalvador-ca .org www .ghc-ca .com 255 Sussex Drive Ottawa, Ontario K1N 9E6 TEL . 241-8541 FAX 241-2232 infocul@embjapan .ca www .ca .emb-japan .go .jp

diplomat and international canada | EMBASSIES | HIGH COMMISSIONS ‑ | OTHER INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES 43 diplomatic contacts 234-3882 FAX234-3882 TEL .233-1852 5G4 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 1006 Suite Street,130 Albert Macedonia of Republic the of Embassy Nasev Sasko Ex . His OF) (REPUBLIC MACEDONIA FAX567-5458 TEL .567-5315 5G4 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 204 Suite Street,130 Albert Lithuania of Republic the of Embassy Damusis Ginte Ex . Her LITHUANIA info@libya-canada .org FAX230-0919 TEL .230-0683 6K7 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 1000 Suite Street, Metcalfe 81 Jamahiriya Libyan Arab People’s Socialist Great the of Embassy JarrudEx . Ahmed Ali His LIBYA Tel 5G4 K1P ON Ottawa, 1820 Suite Street,130 Albert Lesotho of Kingdom the for Commission High Senyane Mots'eoa Ex . Her LESOTHO www info@lebanonembassy FAX236-5825 TEL .232-1609 3Z5 K1S Ontario Ottawa, Lyon640 Street Lebanon of Embassy d’AffairesChargé Mr LEBANON www embassy FAX238-6014 TEL .238-7044 7S8 K1R Ontario, Ottawa, 1200 Suite Street, Sparks 350 Latvia of Republic the of Embassy Mar Ex . His LATVIA FAX780-9999 TEL .780-9905 1J9 K1N Ontario, Ottawa, Drive Sussex 333 Kuwait of State the of Embassy Rashed Musaed Ex . His KUWAIT www FAX244-5010 TEL .244-5034 5A6 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Street Boteler 150 Korea of Republic the of Embassy Kim Soo-dong Ex . His REPUBLIC KOREA, www kenyahighcommission@rogers .com FAX563-1773 TEL .233-6599 6R4 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Laurier Avenue415 East Kenya of Republic the for Commission High Bahemuka Mbula Judith Ex . Her KENYA FAX238-8090 TEL .232-3341 6G8 K1R Ontario Ottawa, Bronson 100 Avenue,701 Suite Jordan of Kingdom Hashemite the of Embassy Barto Nabil Ali Ex . His JORDAN 44 Massoud Maalouf Massoud . : 234-0770 : .lebanonembassy .ottawamfagov .emb-korea .ottawaonca .kenyahighcommissionca .canada@mfagov ` gers Krams gers F ax : 234-5665 : .lv .ca .ca Al-Haroun

.lv | EMBASSIES 3 Raymond Street Raymond 3 Madagascar of Republic the of Embassy Horace Constant Simon Ex . His . MADAGASCAR meottawa@rogers .com 232-9990 TEL . 8J6 K1N Ontario Ottawa, 902 Suite Road, Range 85 Myanmar of Union the of Embassy d'AffairesChargé Mr MYANMAR FAX236-7391 TEL .236-6164 8J4 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Road Range 38 Morocco of Kingdom the of Embassy TangiMohamed Ex . His MOROCCO mail@mongolembassy FAX569-3830 TEL .569-3916 5H3 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 503 Suite Street, Slater 151 Mongolia of Embassy Dugerjav Gotov Ex . His MONGOLIA www info@embamexcan .com FAX233-8988 TEL .235-9123 1A4 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 1000 Suite Street, O’Connor 45 States Mexican United the of Embassy Goicoechea Jose Rafael Emilio Ex . His MEXICO www ambassadedumali@rogers .com FAX232-1501 TEL .232-7429 8C8 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Goulburn Avenue50 Mali of Republic the of Embassy Diawara Bandiougou Mamadou Ex . His MALI malottawa@kln .gov FAX241-5182 TEL .241-5214 8Y7 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Street Boteler 60 Malaysia for Commission High Ignatius Dennis Ex . His MALAYSIA www ambamadcanada@bellnet .ca FAX567-0505 TEL: 567-2882 1A3 K1R Ontario Ottawa, www info@nzhcottawa .org FAX238-5991 TEL .238-5707 6G3 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 727 Suite Street, Bank 99 Commission High Zealand New Lackey Kate Ex . Her ZEALAND NEW Ott-cdp@minbuza .nl FAX237-5030 TEL .237-6471 1A4 K1R Ontario Ottawa, 2020 Suite Street,350 Albert Netherlands the of Kingdom the of Embassy Ex . His NETHERLANDS |

HIGH Maung Maung Maung . . .embamexcancom .ambamalicanadaorg .madagascar-embassy nzembassy

Karel de Beer de Karel COMMISSIONS FAX 232-6999 . com/home .my .org ‑ |

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46 may—june 2008 D I P L O m aT I C T r aV e l Q A s p e c i a l f e at u r e

Australia: Are you strong enough for it?

BY William Fisher High commissioner for Australia.

hen I was invited to write about visiting Australia, it made me think, “Well, if I were a Canadian, what would The Twelve Apos t l e s , a c o l l e c t ion of limes t o n e s ta c k s i n V i c t o r i a W be most fun?” Obviously Canadians are not going to go to Australia to see things they can see in that skiing in Australia is utterly unlike the time, though. The beaches closer Canada – but in fact there’s not much in skiing in Canada. In the first instance, to the cities – there are for example 22 Australia that looks like Canada, other it takes place in June, July and August, beaches within metropolitan Sydney than the people themselves who are per- and there is not much skiing in Canada – are all terrific, each one very different haps more like Canadians than any other then. More importantly though, skiing from the next, and all are patrolled by people in the world. in Australia will not take you to pine volunteer lifesavers. I was going to say that a Canadian forests and high bare mountains, but At this point, Canadians always wouldn’t go to Australia to ski. But then, will take you through a magic landscape ask me about sharks. Actually, we thinking a bit more about it, I realised of gnarled gumtrees, twisted in every Australians are secretly proud of our direction, an eerie backdrop as your killer wildlife. But I have to say that skis flash by. So don’t rule it out. There Australians love to exaggerate about are good ski resorts in both New South sharks in the same way that Canadians Wales and Victoria. obsess about attacks by bears. In fact, Most Canadians tell me they go to we lose the same number of people to Australia for the beaches. And why sharks each year in Australia that you do wouldn’t they? There are literally to bears in Canada – one or two. The last thousands of beaches around the coast fatal shark attack off the netted beaches of Australia, surf beaches located on of Sydney was in 1933, so you would the east coast south of the Great Barrier have to be a pretty unlucky statistic to Reef, and in cooler waters along the be the next one. On the other hand, the South Coast and up the coast of Western isolated beaches off the desert coasts of Australia. When I say surf beaches, I South Australia and Western Australia mean just that. This is not the gentle are home to the Great White Shark. a li

a waters of most Canadian beaches. Do Human swimmers usually only make r t not, please, set off on a championship it to the beaches there once every few beach, like Bells Beach, in high surf years, so if it is going to be you, make with your novice surfboard at the ready sure before you go into the water that

: Tourism Aus unless you have a taste for the more you are looking as little as possible like

OS A s k i e r at M o u n t P e r i s h e r , T extreme end of high adventure. Most a seal, seals being the sharks’ principal N e w S o u t h Wa l e s PHO beaches are pretty manageable most of diet. Better perhaps to stick to Surfers LL A

diplomat and international canada 47 D I P L O m aT I C T r aV e l Q A s p e c i a l f e at u r e

T h e S y d n e y O p e r a H o u s e i n N e w S o u t h Wa l e s

Paradise (it’s a city, on Queensland’s true) and more profane than would be Australia. In fact, it is a joy even greater Gold Coast). considered polite in Canadian circles. than Canadians are aware, because the While on the subject of our exotic Australians can also be rather sear- choice of Australian wines is vastly wildlife – and I only raise this because ingly direct. Political correctness, while bigger than is available through the it seems to be a favourite question of expanding, has not yet reached endemic monopolies in Canada. There are 17,000 Canadians – snakes and spiders are proportions, in most places anyway. Australian wines – and so little time! not all the threat they are cracked up It’s amazing I’ve got this far and not Do try to get a good appreciation of to be. I have lived in Australia most of talked about food. This is something that the different regions – Hunter Valley, my life and I don’t think I have ever Canadians will greatly enjoy, Australian Mudgee, Orange in New South Wales, seen a snake in the wild. I can’t say I’ve restaurants being relatively cheap Yarra Valley, Great Western in Victoria, thought twice about spiders either, so (prices in dollars might seem similar to all over Eastern Tasmania, Coonawarra, it’s not that you Canadians are going to Canada’s but then you do not have to Clare, Barossa and Southern Vales in come across many. But if you travel in add on to the listed price the 30 per cent South Australia, Margaret River, Swan the outback, your chances of meaningful or so extra of GST, PST and of course Valley in Western Australia. You will encounters with both rise dispropor- service). Most restaurants in Australian tionately. That’s part of the attraction. cities – if less so in the south than in Right across the far north, for example the north – are more open air, light and around Darwin, you can add salt water casual affairs, although, of course, if crocodiles and jellyfish to your list of you are after formal dining that’s easy dangers. These are more serious. In to come by too. But I think Canadians Darwin, you will see signs up with red would most enjoy the open air style circles through images of crocodiles, eating found all around the coastal cities saying “NO SWIMMING.” They mean it. of Australia, with excellent fresh food That, then, is the bad news. The and, of course, lots of wine. Beware good news is that Australia, especially though, driving under the influence of for Canadians, is a really welcoming alcohol is much more seriously policed destination. The Australians love in Australia than in Canada. The police Canadians – recently I saw a survey on set up random breath test stops at any which countries Australians “liked” place at any time, so if you make a habit most, and Canada came out, of course, of drinking and driving you will, regret- among the top, so your welcome is fully, sooner or later, get caught. pretty much assured, even though you Which brings me on to wine. I W i n e -ta s t i n g i n A u s t r a l i a’ s may find Australians more informal, hardly need to tell Canadians that this B a r o s s a Va l l e y casually dressed, bigger drinkers (this is will be one of the joys of your visit to

48 may—june 2008 D I P L O m aT I C T r aV e l Q A s p e c i a l f e at u r e find that you can get medium wines very day trip out into the Indian Ocean to offshore, not on the coastline. The best cheaply, good wines very reasonably, Rotnest Island is magic. Another slightly way to see it is to spend time on some of and fabulous wines for as much as your longer trip down to Margaret River, for the reef islands, such as the Whitsunday purse allows you. Perhaps the most wine or surf or both, is worth several Group, or make day trips out of Cairns. important difference between dining out days of your visit. In Adelaide, the win- Cairns also gives you access to the in Canada and dining out in Australia is eries extend in every direction but west (World Heritage listed) Daintree Rain that in Australia most restaurants, other (that’s the sea) but I think Canadians Forest, one of the oldest rainforests in than say big hotels, encourage you to would find a special delight in flying the world, even older than the Amazon, BYO – bring your own – which allows down to Kangaroo Island which, as the and the only place on the planet where you to save mightily on the price of the name implies, is a world-renowned cen- the rainforest meets the sea. wine and spend accordingly more on the tre for its unique wildlife and is well ser- I’ve talked about destinations, but food. viced by eco-tourism accommodation. I must add there are some great (the So back to the main question, where I’ve left the two most obvious Australian adjective is “beaut”) things would I suggest Canadians go particu- destinations for last – the outback and to do. You must go to the Sydney Opera larly if they had only a shortish time in the Great Barrier Reef. The outback, House for a performance as well as for Australia? Sydney, obviously. It really is be aware, is truly vast, indeed it’s most the architecture. Australia is full of ter- one of the world’s great cities. Every day of the continent. The best way to see rific theatre and entertainment, so see is a party, the atmosphere seems always something really different – but it takes if you can fix your trip to include a few on holiday, the sightseeing is fabulous, funds to do it – is to fly to the famous of the good fun festivals like the Sydney the food is terrific and the beaches stun- Ayers Rock in Uluru, just about in the Bienniale, the Melbourne International ning. A trip up the Northern Beaches centre of the continent. The changing Comedy Festival and the Adelaide of metropolitan Sydney is a must, as is colours from red to purple through Festival. And it’s all in English. a trip on the Manly ferry. For less than dawn, day and dusk is one of the most You can’t leave Australia without 10 dollars you get a harbour cruise, enthralling sights on the planet. From coming face-to-face with sport. All the famous Manly Beach, and the best you’ve heard about Australians being view possible of Sydney from the water. sports-mad is true – though Canadians Equally, a trip west of Sydney into the will be appalled to find that, so far, this Blue Mountains, easily accessible in doesn’t extend to hockey. For something two hours or so by train or car, is a new truly Australian and local, go to a surf experience to Canadians because you carnival (this is surf lifesavers club are right into a world of eucalyptus for- competition, not surfboard riding) on est and great ravines. Personally, I’d then any summer weekend in Sydney or the recommend either or both a trip down Gold Coast. Genuine masochists can the south coast of New South Wales spend a day at the cricket. Best of all, from Sydney to Jervis Bay, and/or a try (between March and September) beach safari up the thousand kilometres to catch an Australian Rules Football or so of the north coast of New South match in Melbourne, Adelaide or Perth, Wales through all the great surfing mec- and a Rugby League match in Sydney or cas like Byron Bay. Brisbane. For the true Australia, and a Next, I’d stop in Melbourne, a truly real grudge match, see if you can watch lovely and liveable city which boasts either code of football in any small town. the best food and the best theatre in H o r s e ba c k r i d i n g at F l i n d e r s There is no padding. Be thankful you Australia. A trip from Melbourne up r A n g e s , S o u t h A u s t r a l i a don’t have to play against them yourself. the Yarra Valley wine areas is fantastic. One final word. Australia is a From Melbourne, there is easy access continent and it is in the Southern by overnight boat to Tasmania, a world there, you can travel to the north of the Hemisphere, so that means choose of its own, especially for the cold water Northern Territory and outside Darwin your seasons carefully. By and large, the seafood and (again) excellent colder visit Kakadu National Park, another north, including the Barrier Reef, can weather wines. For the more adven- UNESCO World Heritage Site with an be hot and sticky during the summer turous, there is a terrific five to eight extraordinary variety of landscapes months November to March, which day bushwalk across the mountains and a virtually guaranteed up-close is also the rainy season. Similarly the of Tasmania, but only for the hardy. encounter with crocodiles. The outback south can get quite chilly – though of Of course, Canadian veterans of the also allows you the opportunity to course not much by Canadian standards Rockies or the far north would find it a meet indigenous Australians and see in June, July and August. So adjust your breeze. centuries-old artwork, and perhaps take itinerary to whatever time of year it is I always recommend that people go home a real piece of Australia Aboriginal that you are going. You won’t make it to both South Australia and Western artwork yourself. As for the Great around Australia in one visit anyway, so Australia. Both Perth and Adelaide are Barrier Reef, what else need I say? Any use each visit to prepare to do the oppo- lovely cities, about a million people one of the several centres up and down site one next time. each, and both (yes, yet again) close to the 2,000-kilometres of the Queensland wonderful wine-growing areas which coast allows you access to the Reef, but William Fisher is the high commissioner afford some great tourism. In Perth, a bear in mind that the Reef is a long way for Australia. diplomat and international canada 49 Australia is one of the world's most exciting destinations. Whilst it is famous for its sunshine, blue skies, great beaches and the Great Barrier Reef,

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(Continued from page 52) smoker” because he was a chain smoker and smoked through his sittings with the artist . But the establishment decided it was better to gloss over that fact and had the artist turn the cigarette into a piece of chalk . This huge hall features a portrait Dodg- son . Also known as the Great Hall and established in 1529, it has plenty of con- nections to Alice . First, high on the left-

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K Accu-Rate Corporation 2573 Carling Ave. 111 Albert St. Children run through a door in a garden at Ox- Foreign Exchange & International Payment Services ford. That same door inspired Charles Dodgson www.accu-rate.ca (613) 596-5505 (613) 238-8454 to write about a young girl’s zany journey in $IPLOMAT#ONDO!DPDF0- Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. hand wall, the fifth window from the entrance has depictions of her and some THE GARDENS  BRONSON AVE of the creatures from the book . The brass# firedogs which guard the two fireplaces- have long necks that motivated Dodgson9 to make Alice’s neck grow . He modelled the White Rabbit after Liddell, who left#- dinner every night down a spiral staircase-9 behind the head table . That became the #9 rabbit hole in the book . A chestnut tree in the deanery gar#-9- "O
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$POEPNJOJVN Cheshire cat sat . Alice Liddell did have a NZOFXEJHTDB '03
4"-& tabby cat called Dinah, who is one of her   allies in the book . Cardinal Wolsey’s great kitchen at Christ Church also figures in the book’s “pig and pepper” episode . The book is full of inside jokes and ref- erences from the happy afternoons Dodg- son spent with Alice and her sisters . There were picnics, ceremonies, and the occa- sional visit to his photo studio on the roof of one of the residences . For the interested visitor, these visual reminders remain of one of the world’s most beloved fantasies . Those who want to see it firsthand should contact the head custodian and book an “Alice Tour ”.

Jennifer Campbell is editor of Diplomat .

diplomat and international canada 51 DESTINATIONS | THE LAST WORD hurch C hrist C Visiting Christ Church at Oxford is a worthwhile journey on its own but it’s made more charming when a tour guide points out all of its connections to the story of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, by Charles Dodgson, who wrote the book while teaching at the venerated institution. The inspiration for the book was Alice Liddell, daughter of the dean at the time.

Alice’s Oxfordian Adventures

By Jennifer Campbell

or us, a visit to Christ Church was enough? A total of 13 British prime minis- if he’d take their photo, too . Thanks to about seeing where Cuthbert Simp- ters, to make no mention of cabinet minis- the fantastical stories Dodgson told them, Fson, the dean of this prestigious ters and bishops, studied at Oxford . the four became fast friends and regularly Oxford institution and my husband’s Still, the story with the most tangible visited back and forth . great-uncle, was buried . I was traveling connection to Christ Church is probably On our personal tour (it turned out England and Scotland with my husband’s that of Charles Dodgson who, in 1851 at some staff were more excited about my two sisters and we were all keen to dis- the age of 19, arrived to study mathemat- in-laws’ ancestry than the chippy guard cover some of our heritage . ics . He became more famous under his we first encountered), a friendly verger But once we made our way past the pseudonym, Lewis Carroll, and remained took us through the cathedral and showed crusty custodian – the latest dean was be- there for the rest of his life . First he stud- us the garden, with a concrete wall at ing officially named the next day and the ied, and then, for 26 years, he taught . the back, and a door leading to? Well, let cathedral was closed for a rehearsal and While at Christ Church, Dodgson, at your imagination wander . That's what Mr . this factotum was having none of our pleas the time the mathematics don, met the Dodgson did and this, literally speaking, about distant relations – we discovered the children of his friend H .G . Liddell, who is where Alice’s Adventures in Wonder- place is crawling with other stories . was then dean . Dodgson, a lifelong bache- land began . There’s the fact that a long list of fa- lor and a deeply religious man, had asked Our visit to the dining hall was re- mous folks studied there, among them if he could photograph the Cathedral from ally to see the portraits of all previous philosopher and physician John Locke, the deanery garden and while he was deans . Cuthbert Simpson’s is called “the religious leaders John Wesley and Wil- setting up his equipment, Liddell’s three liam Penn, as well as Albert Einstein . Not daughters, Alice, Lorina and Edith, asked (Continued on page 51)

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