Contents Contents
News and Notices . . . 2 New Finds Near Kempsey ...... 16 Annual Report ...... 4 Speleo Synopsis 17 Kimberly Dreaming . . . 7 Cave Rescue Series No 1 ...... 20
Thailand '97 ...... 21
Mimbi cave - Kimberly
Book Review ...... 12
Britannia Creek Rescue ...... 13 Caving in Thailand
Bulmer Rescue . . . . 14
Front Cover: Reto Zollinger in Root Chamber, North Pole Cave (3H-51 ), Mt Eccles. Photo by Ken Grimes and Reto Zollinger.
Back Cover: Evening bat flight at Tham Chaoram near Sukhothai. (photo Linda Fellows)
1 News & Notices
If anyone has any ideas about NEWS presentations or workshops, please &NOTICES contact Keir Vauhan-Taylor at Editorial
was accidentally omitted. The signs are in the Nicole and Clarke gorges, along the Jennings Walks. The The mystery author was 23rd A.S.F. Bi-ennial walks commemorate the work of Dr Peter Ackroyd. Secondly Joseph N Jennings, a geographer from the first sentence of AI Conference the Australian National University who Warild's article "Nakani 98" The 23rd Bi-ennial Conference of spent 30 years studying the Cooleman the A.S.F. will be held at Bathurst Plain. was unfortunately from 28th December 2000 to 2nd truncated and should have Blue Waterholes lies at the eastern January 2001. These dates will edge of an extensive limestone area which read "We went into the allow people to attend during the includes Cooleman Plain. Much of the travel agents to see if we Christmas-New Year break that many rainfall on the plain disappears could get a few days companies have. It will also allow underground to rise again at the spring at members who are Scouts to attend Blue Waterholes. There are many extension on our less both the Conference and the 19th expensive air-fare and sinkholes, gorges and small caves. Australian Jamboree which follows. NPWS assistant district manager for came out with a free The Conference will be practical Tumut District, Russell Knutson, said the ticket". Apologies to Peter, as well as embracing modern signs will complement existing information AI and our readers. technology with lots of caving and displays at the popular Blue Waterholes most of all, FUN!! The cost will be picnic and camping ground. under$300.00 which will include "The Jennings Walks begin at the everything.
2 News & Notices camping area where Cave Creek reappears from the plains and these new signs will help visitors gain a better understanding of the natural Wanted and cultural history of the limestone or karst area," said Mr Knutson. Advertising Co-ordinator to join the "The two kilometre return 1 km one-way Clarke Gorge walk is team that produces "Australian Caver". particularly scenic, as it takes visitors into the steep-sided canyon cut by It involves: Caves Creek on its way to the Goodradigbee River." Seeking out advertisers; he 15 kilometre return Nicole Liaising with the Editor and advertisers to ensure correct Gorge Walk takes visitors through a advertising copy and position in the Journal; dry river gorge beds to limestone canyons and caves before returning Liaising with the Publisher and advertisers to ensure across limestone plains dotted with correct billing. sinkholes. The signs describe the native This position will inject funds which will allow for: vegetation of the area, including black sallies and snow gums, as well Better quality Journal with better paper, print quality, size as the rare and distinctive weeping and colour; snow gum. They also describe fossil Less funds required from the Federation's budget which plants and animals which can be seen in the rocks. will keep our fees low. The interesting history of the Murray Cave is also described. This cave has been known to Europeans This important position is available since 1834 when Aboriginal people showed it to T. A. Murray of now! Yarralumla. In 1968, members of the Canberra Speleological Society If you wish to make a positive contribution without much time discovered inscriptions dated 1903 outlay, please contact: which included the names of members of the Southwell family who Angus Macoun then lived at nearby Coolamine Homestead. Access to Cooleman Plain and Blue Waterholes is via Cooleman Homestead from the Long Plain Road, off the Snowy Mountains Highway. the club as the past treasurer, a life a scholarship in mathematics is being position which he held for many set up at the University of Sydney in his NHVSS News years. honour. David's many friends are encouraged to make a donation towards On 24 Jun 99 the Newcastle and The NHVSS web site is now up the scholarship. Hunter Valley Speleological Society and running, thanks to the tireless Details of the scholarship fund can be held its AGM. The following people efforts of Gary Whitby and Michael found at were elected to fill positions. Rutledge. It is very good and a Newcastle and Hunter Valley credit to Gary and Michael. As well
Speleological Society (P.O. Box 15 as the text, if one stay on the pages Broadmeadow, N.S.W. 2292. with pictures for a little while, they AUSTRALIA.) will scroll through a slide show. It is President Jenny Whitby certainly worth a browse and can be Cave Survey "99 Vice President Garry Smith found at Wombeyan Caves, 6nth November Secretary Jodie Shoobert 1999 Treasurer Michael Rutledge Equipment Officer K e n Cave Survey '99' will be held over two Turner David Jackson days at Wombeyan Caves and is open to Training Officer Gary Whitby Scholarship Fund all ASF cavers. This is the second year Librarian Garry Smith David Jackson, a member of the course has run and it is intended for: Editor (Chronicles) G a r r y SUSS, died last year in Denmark. * people who are already surveying Smith David made many friends in caving caves and producing maps but wish to Publicity Officer Gary Whitby societies throughout Australia and his find out about further aspects of surveying The only position to change genuine good-natured enthusiasm for that they may not know about hands from the previous year, was caves and caving are missed by * those new to cave surveying who that of Treasurer. Congratulations to many. want a rapid path from using the Michael Rutledge who now takes up David was also a talented instruments to drafting the final map. the reigns and a special thankyou to mathematician as well as a keen Course instructors are Mike Lake, Phil Dave Burnard for his dedication to caver. To remember David and his Maynard & Jill Rowling.
3 Annual Report
Saturday will begin with short What you need to bring: lectures on cave maps, then cover *survey gear! Each group needs the use of surveying instruments and their own compass, clinometer, 30m other materials followed by a short measuring tape and pocket calculator surface survey. * breakfast, lunch and dinners for The course will concentrate on the weekend using hand held surveying * caving gear for easy horizontal instruments such as Suuntos etc. caving and sleeping bag for the We'll look at types of instruments and evening. their accuracy and uses, errors in Cost for the weekend course is using them, and tips/tricks in their $50.00 per person Places on this use, cave ethics, party organisation course are limited to 15 persons on a and welfare. After lunch we go first-come basis. A deposit of $10.00 underground to start surveying and is required to secure a place and full sketching plans and cross sections. payment is required before the end After dinner we will discuss what of September. Send a cheque, we need to do to the survey data and payable to Speleonics, to the why. We'll reduce a few legs address below. manually, then use a computer cave No refunds will be made if you surveying package to do the work for cancel after September. us. At the end of the evening we Ring or email for further should have a plot of the day's information and to confirm place survey legs on paper. We then play availability. with some other cave surveying and Speleonics visualisation packages. Sunday starts with map standards, then underground again to touch up all those nice wall and floor details. After lunch we retire to the cottage to start learning about drafting the final map. Then you can all compare maps! Yes it's a lot to cover and the weekend will be intensive but most enjoyable. Expect to finish around 5.00pm Sunday. The underground section of the course will use part of a large tourist cave which is only a few minutes away from the cottage. No vertical gear is needed. Participants will work in teams of three or so surveying a small section so come along as a group from your club or join with some other cavers on the weekend. What we provide: Full course notes, morning/afternoon tea and use of the Cottage for the weekend. The Cottage has beds for 6 persons and floor space for more, full kitchen facilities, and an outside BBQ. We will be using the cottage for lectures and map drawing. Australian Speleological Federation Inc. Annual Report 1998 Presented by the President, Peter Berrill, Yeppoon, Qld, January 1999
At the last ASF Conference in attitude. I have been blessed with a activities, indicates a high degree of Quorn in 1997, members demanded hard-working Executive containing a satisfaction with the direction set by the a more proactive, responsive, sound mix of experience and ability. Council at the last two meetings. entrepreneurial and At Quorn we budgeted for 650 By any standards this has been a strategically-oriented organisation, members. We now have 1,024 with highly productive year. The NSW and charged the new Executive with more applying at this meeting. We members have been particularly active achieving this. We have to thank believe that the considerable and it is pleasing to report the active Alan Jevons again for his foresight in increase in membership, and support from management authorities bringing about this sea change in particularly in involvement in ASF there. We received grants totalling
4 Annual Report
$32,330 for conservation and requirements relating to our not call for action. The Executive resolved documentation-related work in NSW incorporated status, modern auditing to streamline the process by gathering thanks to hard work by Peter Dykes practice and the reporting demands reports and circulating them in advance. and Chris Dunne. We are ready to of bodies from whom we obtain funds The Council Meeting could then spend put in place constitutional changes simply don't allow us to operate the more time on significant issues, which will enable us to be recognised way we did 10 or 20 years ago. longer-term policy and strategic issues, by the Department of the While this report highlights some codes of practice etc. Environment and the Australian of ASF's more significant activities in Finance Taxation Office as a registered the last year or so, I don't want to During the year we were obliged on conservation organisation, so that omit mention of the many people the advice of our auditor to institute new some of our activities can receive who as Convenors of Commissions accountability procedures for ASF funds. tax-deductible status. The or Committees, or as Executive The Auditor's Report advised that both Membership Handbook only awaits members, continue to maintain prudent practice and our obligations under these constitutional changes, and on-going programs of the Federation. the Incorporated Associations Act required membership cards are ready to go. Some of these have filled a role for us to change our accounting procedures Dean Morgan has set new standards as long as 10 or even 20 years and so that the Executive clearly had control of of excellence with the Newsletter. they seldom get a guernsey, for all Federation funds, and that funds were New procedures have been example Peter Matthews, Ken expended only in accordance with the implemented to streamline our Grimes, Cathy Brown and Evalt Budget. As the steps necessary to administrative functioning, evidenced Crabbe. There are others who have achieve this met were resisted in some by the fact that we were able to get always been a willing source of quarters we were obliged to seek a further almost all reports to clubs well in advice although they hold no official opinion from two accountants and a advance of this meeting. Accounting position, and I would particularly like lawyer, which all confirmed both the need procedures and terms of reference of to thank Chris Norton, Patrick Larkin, for and method of action we had to take. Commissions and Committees were Tony Culberg, Miles Pierce, Nick Chris Riley has refined the accounting strengthened to comply with tougher White and Elery Hamilton-Smith. In software so that there is a link between auditing requirements. Through Alan several cases a few minutes of their membership fees paid, the membership Jevons we have been represented time has saved us hours of work. list, and newsletter distribution. on the peak national recreation body I also want to make special Directions from last Council and have had a direct influence on acknowledgement of our Public Meeting to review Terms of Reference setting realistic national standards for Officer, Peter Nicholson, whose A complete review of the terms of caving leadership. A joint proposal timely interventions saved us a great reference of Commissions and by ASF and ACKMA resulted in the deal of bureaucratic hassle about our Committees was undertaken by an ad hoc listing of the Cape Range karst as incorporated status. Committee in Sydney in consultation with one of the ten mpost endangered Some highlights of 1998 all Convenors affected. karst aquifers in the world. The I have organised these under 2. Member Services aftermath of the Mt Etna dispute has several headings, but they are in no Australian Caver been very time-consuming, and I particular order of significance. The This has vastly improved under Dean expect to be able to make an respective Presidents of the NSW Morgan's capable editorship. Although announcement about progress on and SA Speleological Councils will considerations of cost obliged us to rein in that issue shortly. report in more detail on their states the number of pages, Dean has actually During my term it became evident so have been omitted here except for been able to increase the content by that if we were to achieve the one or two outstanding judicious changes in layout, and more demands made by members at the achievements. timely news can now be incorporated Quorn Conference, we were going to Executive meetings because articles, news and even have to change some of our Two meetings were held during photographs can be electronically organisational practices. This would the year, one in Sydney attended by delivered to the Editor, and from the Editor mean being administratively more all the Executive and one by to Publisher. To speed distribution we efficient, with improved accountability telephone. There is no doubt that transferred production to Sydney where and communication, and we would these meetings and the fact that all Angus Macoun's skills have been have to cast off some entrenched executive members now have access invaluable in reducing production costs. institutional practices inherited from a to e-mail has vastly improved There were some distribution hiccups time when ASF was smaller, the communication and the quality of which we hope have now been dealt with. demands of its members less, and decision-making. Other key As the newsletter is the main image of the scope of club activities more personnel including Alan Jevons, ASF to its members it is essential that we restricted. Dean Morgan, Chris Norton and Mike support it strongly. We are trying to strike a balance Lake were also able to attend the Membership Handbook between a rule-bound bureaucratic Sydney meeting, and we should A draft has been completed and will be institution, which would be anathema thank Jill Rawling for again making available for perusal and comment at the to most members, and the kind of available her home as a venue. Yeppoon Conference. We decided to dysfunctional decision-making which 1.: ASF Administration defer distribution until 1999 so as to characterises an organisation with The increasing complexity of the incorporate the many administrative little corporate memory or properly Federation's activities became changes referred to above. Angus instituted procedures. And there is evident at the Melbourne meeting Macoun is seeking advertising to defray little doubt that the expectations both where 42 reports and documents the whole cost of the venture. of members and of the law make were tabled for the meeting's Insurance increasing demands on the consideration, including 28 reports of The changes made at the Melbourne functioning both of ASF and of ASF officers. Many of these related meeting have worked well, and we thank member clubs. For example, legal to on-going functions of ASF and did Alan Jevons for making the necessary
5 Annual Report
Caving Leadership Standards dialogue with speleologists, including greatly reduced ASF's ability, and the Copies of the standards have travelling down to Sydney for a ability of member clubs to deliver been issued, but the contents are for NSWSC meeting. timely, accurate data to support member club use only. Alan Jevons Cape Range conservation and management issues. It reminds us that the contents are A number of development is clear that the membership is unhappy copyright to ASF and the authors. proposals and other activities are about progress and essential that a There is enormous intellectual impacting on the caves and karst at workable solution be found without further property invested in this and we have Cape Range in Western Australia. delay. been approached by outside During the year ASF submitted a Tribute to Joe Jennings providers. The copyright must be nomination jointly with ACKMA for The Executive is not satisfied with safeguarded. the karst at Cape Range to be progress on this project, which was 3. Public Relations and entered as one of the ten most envisaged as the Federation's tribute to Public Recoanition endangered karsta quifers in the one of its founding fathers, a former NHT grants world. The nomination has been President and distinguished academic A great deal of hard work by accepted. leader who was our trustee until his death. Peter Dykes and Chris Dunne in Some important issues On the one hand this was never going to particular resulted in grants to the There are some important be an easy task, and recent cutbacks in Federation (represented by the NSW projects and issues which we see funding of tertiary education along with Speleological Council) totalling over as absolutely integral to bringing changes in market trends have certainly $32,000 under the National Heritage about the improved, more not boosted its financial viability. On the Trust program. While these had to professional ASF which members other hand it is now 6 years since it focus on karst vegetation to comply demanded at the last two began, and although much of the writing is with the grant criteria, a considerable meetings. complete or well advanced, the editors portion is available for documentation Registration as conservation have not been able to deliver any of the 4 and conservation oriented projects. organisation, tax deductible status key elements in the proposal endorsed by Each project is managed by a etc. ASF in 1993. The Executive believes that sub-committee of the NSWSC. For some years the Federation the original proposal was sound in Funded in full for $27,330 during has been discussing the notion of a principle and that its completion is integral 1999, the largest of these will allow Foundation or similar structure which to our strategy for the long-term image of us to fully document 22 cave-bearing would enhance the long-term aims of the Federation. karsts in central-western NSW, and a ASF and perhaps enable and lntellectu~l property and products November meeting in Lithgow of encourage donations to be made and Alan Jevons presented a discussion interested clubs and individuals set administered prudently. paper on this at an Executive Meeting and up a project reporting structure, The Constitutional changes a committee headed by Chris Dunne is timeframe and budget. We thank proposed at this meeting have been preparing a draft policy. A meeting held in BMSC, CWCG, ECRC, HCG, MSS, prepared by our legal advisers and Sydney identified a number of areas of ass and RSS for their commitment are essential both to being ASF's operations where this is of great to this excellent project. recognised by the Department of significance, and Chris Norton raised Awards Environment and Australian Taxation many questions which need to be The ASF Awards for 1998 will be Office as a conservation addressed. We are particularly concerned announced at the Conference. At organisation, and to obtaining about information on the data-base, the the last Conference we made awards tax-deductible status for conservation data-base structure itself, and training to two prominent speleologists in oriented activities. materials related to caving leadership Thailand who had greatly facilitated Progress on the Karst Data standards. The commercial value of these the image of Australian speleology as Base properties is many tens of thousands of well as promoting cave conservation The last Council meeting directed dollars, while the value of unpaid work in Thailand. John Dunkley was able the Executive to negotiate future which has gone into preparation is to make presentations for them at a directions for the operation of the incalculable. Contributing individuals and well-attended press conference in Documentation Commission and for clubs and ASF itself each have rights to Bangkok. As well as providing future use of its funds and of the be safeguarded. The Council needs to recognition of outstanding Karst Data Base itself. This proved discuss some of the issues. contributions, the public relations to be a very difficult and Conclusion value of the awards is immeasurable. time-consuming task, there has been As prefaced above, the last two Representation on other bodies a measure of resistance, and it Council Meetings demanded a more Patrick Larkin continues to be our cannot be said that discussions are proactive, responsive, entrepreneurial and statutory representative on the yet complete. The project itself is strategically-oriented Federation, and Jenolan Caves Reserve Trust. Alan indisputably complex and may well charged the new Executive with achieving Jevons unfortunately lost his position be a world leader when complete, this. Organisational change is never with ORCA in an election. Through and the Convenor deserves acclaim straightforward and I will not pretend that the NSW Speleology Council we also for persevering. The value of the last two years have been easy. have a position on the Speleological intellectual property invested in this is However the resolve, support and overall Advisory Committee for areas incalculable, but it is of no value until unanimity of the Executive and managed by Jenolan Caves Reserve finished. Yet it has consumed us on Membership has been most heartening. Trust. This is being reviewed by and off for 13 years. An inability to There are still problems to be solved but it senior management but I have to deliver appears to have cost us is clear that we are over the hill. record that they have actively sought several marketing opportunities and
6 Kimberly Dreaming Kimberley Dreaming Text and photos by Stefan Eberhard . ~;az,~a~ia~:qa*• (W;\SG)*' The•qfficiaJ !epolj andrpaps, ~ill appear;~~e~i~ [he ty~tWJ f?~Y!'r. I~ exgedition wsj SUf?f?:~lt~ : Pya . gr~mt [{om the Gordon Reid Foundation fdrCon$~rvatlon. ··· · ··· · ···· · · ··. · ·. ···· · ···.·· ··. ···.. · ·· ·· ·.. , ··· .. ,.. , · ·. ' · · · ·· ·
JANDAMARRA party of whites bent on revenge rode into Windjana Gorge they Jandamarra was an were surprised by the blacks aboriginal resistance fighter firing onto them from above. who almost single-handedly There followed a protracted held up for a period of years, siege where Jandamarra was the advance of white settlers seriously wounded but kept into the Limestone Ranges. firing from the mouth of the His story is fascinating, made cave as his people escaped more so by the crucial role into the limestone ranges via a which the rugged karst ranges back entrance. The whites and caves played returned to Derby claiming that prolonging the resistance. he had been killed, but Jandamarra had escaped to By the 1890's Tunnel Creek Cave where he settlers were pushing into the Lillimoolora Police Station spent many months 1n h1ding as fertile country of the he recovered from his wounds. Limestone Ranges. For nearly 10 warriors. At Lillimooloora Police Station During this period there was uproar years the Bunuba people had the Bunuba captives pleaded with in the frontier settlements demanding presented a strong resistance to the Jandamarra to release them from their bloody retribution. A newspaper report white incursion. They carried out hit chains. As Richardson slept on 31st in 1894 said, and run attacks on settler's sheep and October 1894 Jandamarra took his rifle huts. In retaliation the whites captured and shot him, then fled with the "It would be a good time for the Bunuba men, chained and transported released captives to nearby Windjana WA government to shut its eyes for them to Fremantle prison. Other Gorge. say 3 months and let the settlers up Bunuba people, especially the women, here have a little time to teach the Unaware of Richardson's murder, were offered security if they came and nigger the difference between mine a party of cattlemen entered Windjana worked on the settlers stations. and thine .... it would only have to be Gorge where they were surprised and done once, and once done, could Jandamarra had been brought up two were killed but one escaped to easily be forgotten". with the whites (where he was known raise the alarm. The natives captured as Pigeon) and because of this his their wagon, which contained a good Accordingly in 1895 the police and own tribe had never accepted him. He supply of arms and ammunition. special 'constable-settlers' were was a superb horseman and a crack Jandamarra was now accepted as the granted so-called 'discretionary powers' shot with a rifle. He developed a leader of the rebellion as he prepared which amounted to a license to kill friendship with Constable William for the approaching show down by aborigines. Hundreds were massacred. Richardson and worked with him as a arming and hiding his people in a cave Realising that continuing violent tracker, helping him to capture Bunuba in the side of the gorge. When the resistance would only amount to further bloodshed Jandamarra changed his tactics into a psychological war of attrition. For two years Jandamarra harassed and taunted the settlers and police. He was a cunning bushman and strategist who quickly gained a reputation, with both the blacks and the whites, for possessing magical powers. Reputedly he could, "fly like a bird, and disappear like a ghost". On one occasion he was tracked to his hide out in Tunnel Creek Cave, a massive tunnel some 700 metres long which passes right through the middle of the Oscar Range. The whites believed they had him finally trapped when they staked out the entrances at either end, but unknown to them Jandamarra had escaped via a third entrance located in the middle of the Tunnel Creek Cave 7 Kimberly Dreaming
-tunnel. hand stencils and artwork. There was hair. One day he jumped from his cave a camping cave containing grinding into the river below whereupon his Jandamarra's guerilla campaign of hollows and spear sharpening grooves, spear points became the teeth of non-violent resistance infuriated and which was perfectly situated next to a Lullangarra the crocodile. humiliated his persecutors. He would clear pool with permanent spring. In taunt them from the limestone Paul also told us another story one cave was found a spearhead, ramparts of the Napier Range, then about lullangarra, which I recall, went whilst others were burial sites. Sitting disappear into the safety of the rugged something like: Lullangarra was the quietly in these special places I would karst where he could not be followed. crocodile/man who lived in the cave by sometimes feel the hair on the nape of He would lay false trails, then turn up the river. Lullangarra had the use of my neck stand up inexplicably, and at somewhere else miles away. On one fire but he cruelly kept it from the other these times I never felt completely occasion Richard Pilmer rode his horse people. So one day the people alone. We explored and surveyed into a narrow gorge to find himself diverted Lullangarra's attention from caves which Jandamarra and his trapped in the sights of Jandamarra's his fire, and an eagle flew down and people must have visited, in Windjana rifle. Jandamarra demanded repeatedly snatched the fire away then dropped Gorge and behind the ruins of of Pilmer, "Do you want your life?", the burning embers over the landscape Lillimooloora Police Station. Perhaps then shot his hat off. so the rest of the people had fire one day someone might uncover a thereafter. It became apparent that the only forgotten cache of weapons from the way Jandamarra could be killed was rebellion? In Geikie Gorge there are sheer by another black man possessing limestone cliffs dropping into the similar magical powers, so the whites lUllANGARRA Fitzroy River. There are cave got the tracker, Mingo Mick. After entrances in the cliffs with passages leading the police party on a 'merry There are plenty of freshwater extending back underneath the dance' over many miles of rugged crocodiles in the Fitzroy River near plateau. country, Jandamarra found himself Geikie Gorge. These reptiles grow up To access one of the entrances I being pursued by Micki, the two to 2m in length and whilst they are not had to swim the river, alongside the exchanging shots as they ran. Micki hit considered a threat to human life like cliff face for a distance. I reluctantly Jandamarra and brought him face the saltwater variety, they do possess immersed myself in the cold and murky down just before he reached the safety a formidable set of very sharp teeth. water, weighed down by boots and of the long cane grass at the foot of They can be seen basking on the battery" I reached the entrance the Napier Range. Joe Blythe stepped forward and aiming his revolver at point blank range, paused as if to savour the moment. In the same instant Jandamarra playing dead spun around and fired his Winchester, blowing off Blythe's thumb. Hit in the groin, Jandamarra propelled himself into the grass and disappeared leaving a trail of blood in his wake. The police party set up camp, carefully guarding their remaining Bunuba prisoners. At dawn the man harnessing the horses was shot dead by Jandamarra and the horses stampeded. The besieged police formed a human shield with their prisoners and searched for the horses. Jandamarra followed them but failed to release his comrades before reinforcements arrived. The hunter now Geikie Gorge near Lui/angara's Cave.Paul Udinga at the helm. Paul Cornish. Adam Minchin, John became the hunted as Jandamarra Cugley L to R. clawed his way south along the Napier Range, with Micki following his blood riverbank, or lurking in the water with breathless and shivering, caused as trail and police patrols on either side of just their eyes protruding. Seen in a much by an irrational apprehension of the range. After three days he reached torch beam their eyes are a sinister crocodiles as from cold and exertion. the sanctuary of Tunnel Creek Cave. red colour. The rangers which run the The cave entrance was uninviting, a On the morning of April 1st 1897 boat cruises through Geikie Gorge tell muddy crawl with the odour of decay Jandamarra walked outside to meet tourists not to stick their fingers in the emanating from within. Micki. He fired at Micki and missed, water. Ranger Paul Udinga told us the Crawling forward, I noted boot who then brought Jandamarra down. story of Lullangarra one day as he prints in the mud left by Brian Vine The story goes that Micki had shot took us up river for a day of cave when he had visited the site a couple Jandamarra in the thumb and that exploration. weeks earlier. Then I saw another set inside his thumb was a little heart, like of prints, which clearly belonged to a a fish. They then cut off his head and Lullangarra the warrior lived in a large reptile. The fresh set of tracks sent it to Perth. cave somewhere atop the cliffs of the gorge. Lullangarra had many sharp went into the cave but there were none Whilst caving in the Napier Range spear points which he kept by sticking coming back out. I hesitated to go I felt the Bunuba presence strongly. them into his thick and frizzy head of further in but I also didn't relish another We came across caves containing swim in the river. I crawled cautiously
8 Kimberly Dreaming
from the hot climate. Accordingly, John Cugley and I went to look at the sump in Cloud Cave. With one foot hooked firmly against the sump headwall to ensure my safe return I poked my head under and could see airspace only 3m away. Checking for silt and other hazards I could see that passing the duck was straightforward and a safe return was guaranteed. On the other side I found myself inside a sealed chamber half full of water - the top part of a phreatic loop. On the other side was another sump leading into the downward leg of the next loop. The acoustics in this chamber were quite spectacular, with noises magnified and reverberating. Waiting on the other side of the siphon John became quite alarmed by the eerie Lullangarra sounds being transmitted through the water, sounds that he imagined to be inwards, ready to jump to the side if Kimberley caves is frequently crystal cries for help! the occupier of the den bolted out. clear and offers a refreshing respite I did a recce dive into the next There were stranded logs in the mudbanks, each one of which I imagined to be a crocodile lurking. At the end of the muddy crawl way was a sump with something dead and rotten in it, the remains of the crocs last meal, a Barrumundi. The silt in the sump had been stirred up, but the croc was nowhere to be seen. I searched around for an alternative exit to avoid swimming in the river again. Climbing upwards I entered a passage which hadn't been noticed previously, and explored several hundred metres. Climbing further upwards I found myself back on the surface of the limestone plateau behind the river. Nearby was nother entrance with a striking apeaarance, an ancient phreatic tube that looked a bit like an eye socket - it seemed to be watching me. The other and of the walk-through tube directly overlooked the river some 50m below, where it commanded a magnificent vista both up and down river. The tunnel had a smooth flat floor, with a cool breeze blowing through it, a much more comfortable environment than the hot, razor sharp karst outside. A more suitably designed natural shelter and vantage point was hard to imagine. There were grinding hollows and spear sharpening grooves in the rock, and a painting of a crocodile. This place might have been Lullangarra's cave. CLOUD CAVE
I had gotten into the habit of carrying a dive mask and waterproof torch with me, to check out underwater leads as there was good potential for finding new passages by breath hold diving of short ducks. The water in
Adam Minchin surveying sump in Cloud Cave. 9 Kimberly Dreaming sump before reporting back to John. This sump was evidently more than a simple short duck, descending to a depth of 4m then travelling horizontally a distance before appearing to trend upwards beyond my turn around point. I found that pulling myself along by grabbing rock projections consumed less oxygen than frog kicking, and stirred up less silt. Next we went to another cave located at the base of the bluff, the presumed resurgence point for Cloud Cave. John and Michael Playford had surveyed this cave a few weeks previously, claiming that they had never had so much fun, per metre of cave passage, ever before. The cave consisted of a narrow maze of passages mostly full of cool, clear water. On the map of the cave were cave. He asked me where I had come then we heard a scream and he came several passage ends marked with the from? rushing back to us exclaiming, "I need initials "FNG". I took these initials to to change my jocks, I NEED to change stand for "Effing No Go" or something I told him, "Cloud Cave". my jocks!" similar, but went in to have a look "Bullshit" he replied. anyway. I passed through a number of According to Adam , as he was short and shallow ducks less than 3m The veracity of the connection exploring he looked up to see a Green i n length before arriving at a deep needed to be established, and it also Tree Frog on a wall of the narrow circular pool. Taking a big breath I needed to be surveyed, but John was passage. At the same instant as Adam went down and along and to my utter unwilling to accompany me, and quite saw the frog, so did a large snake astonishment suddenly realised that I reasonably so I thought when I asked sitting on the opposite wall. The hungry had come into the other end of the him what the initials "FNG" on the snake leapt off the wall and onto siphon I had explored from Cloud Cave cave survey actually stood for? Adam, and thence to the other wall a short while before. The temptation to where it seized the frog. We were "For the Next Generation", he told complete the connection and through sceptical of Adam's story so went to me. trip was irresistible, so I swam onwards investigate. Indeed there was a snake knowing that I could comfortably make Fortunately we had on the team and frog engaged in a real life and the distance. two gung-ho young males belonging to death struggle. the next generation , Adam Minchin Barefoot and buck naked I climbed We watched in fascination as the and Paul Cornish. These cocky lads out of Cloud Cave and tip toed through frog refused to give in, clinging grimly survived exclusively on a diet of beer the spinifex back down the hill to the to the rock and inflating its body to and cigarettes and considered resurgence. I called to John who was hinder the snakes swallowing. We themselves to be invincible, so I took still waiting vigilantly at the entrance waited for the poison to quickly take them back to survey theconnection. pool. It took him a while to realise I effect, wishing for this seemingly cruel The long siphon was measured at 20m was calling to him from outside the and gruesome spectacle to end, but in length, a fair distance but not the frog refused to yield. Finally, after dangerously so given the ideal a battle lasting nearly an hour, the conditions. Paul and Adam reckoned it snake had failed to swallow the frog. was easy, after they had surfaced on Spitting out the bleeding but still the other side. I would rank this free breathing amphibian, the snake diving through trip as an absolute slithered away and the frog limped classic sport caving experience. It is slowly back into the darkness. still a serious proposition nonetheless, but can be safely undertaken with The moral to this story is, "Never suitable experience and preparation. give up, ever". WHACKED-OUT CRAZY MAZE OLD NAPIER DOWNS CAVE
John Cugley, Paul Cornish and Old Napier Downs Cave is one of the Adam Minchin were surveying a cave most splendid caves in the Kimberley. unofficially dubbed "Whacked-Out It has a grand entrance passage way Crazy Maze". So named because which leads about 1OOm to a sump more than a kilometre of anastomosing pool. It's a shallow 4m duck through to passage had been crammed into a the other side, where there exists more small block of limestone. I joined them than 600m of wide passages which are on this day to carry out a biological mostly filled with deep clear water. The survey. As it turned out, we swim through this cave is a classic encountered some spectacular biology, trip). The cave is home to a rich and and Adam got quite a fright. He had unusual troglobitic fauna. including an gone to explore a side passage but ancient and extraordinary isopod Tainisopus napierensis
10 Kimberly Dreaming crustacean, Tainisopus napierensis. Several kilometres further north along the Napier Range is Wagon Pass, where there is a deep ore mining prospect. If the mine is developed then there will be de-watering impacts to the karst aquifer. The sump is quite wide with sections of low air space at the exit and entry points. Visibility is reduced by silt stirred up. A guideline is essential. A large group of us entered the cave for a tourist trip beyond the duck, but a near drowning experience for one member of our group taught everyone a lesson. One person in our group was evidently feeling quite apprehensive about the dive so we practised pulling along a line in the pool before the duck. The practise session went OK but did nothing to quell her anxiety. Paul Cornish in Old Napier Downs Cave However, everyone else was psyched up for the dive and impatient to push somewhere along the way they had known limit the passage sumped out, on I went through the duck first and become separated. Suddenly she burst but with masks, fins and underwater waited on the other side, to the surface and gasped, bumped torches Doug Fitzgerald and I found it communicating with Brian on the other her head on the roof and went under was possible to continue on by ducking side via a series of tugs on the rope as again. She was caught in a section of from one air pocket to the next. The air he sent each person through one at a low air space, several metres away pockets got progressively smaller and time. So far so good, until the persons from us and the guideline. The next further apart as we continued, whilst partner came through and yelled, time she came up I grabbed her. the water-filled passages beneath us "Where is she, where is she?" The got deeper and more complex. I Free diving in caves can be a stressful water was still and silent. returned to explore further with Paul and potentially hazardous activity Cornish, Adam Minchin and Brian Her partner explained that she had given that you have only one lung full Vine, and over several trips we hung onto him as he attempted to pull of air with which to get it right. With surveyed an additional 400m or so of them both through on the rope, but scuba gear there is more leeway for wild roof-sniffing adventure. sorting out problems. Anyone can drown, CONCLUSION even in a bathtub sized sump, but free The Kimberley is a magic place to go diving can still be caving. The karst is extraordinary. he done relatively safely surface has barely been scratched. with adequate ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ' experience and preparation. The Gordon Reid Foundation for Conservation; incident was a close Western Australian Museum; CALM at call with some Fitzroy Crossing, especially Paul Udinga; valuable lessons in it Landholders at Old Napier Downs, Brooking for everyone. Firstly, Springs, and Osmond Range stations: Mimbi Cave traditional owners: Brian Vine don't push anyone to (expedition leader); John Cugley (chief cook do something beyond and caterer); David Woods, Donna. and Joe his or her experience Cavlovic at Kununnurra. and capabilities. The second lesson, never 1998 Expedition members let go of the guideline. Bernadette, Paul Cornish, John Cugley, Thirdly, wearing a dive Stefan Eberhard, Ken, Kim Ely, Doug mask so you can see Fitzgerald, Carolyn Forte, Dawn Graves, where you're going Rob Klok, Yvonne lngeme, Alice Linford , makes the experience Gabriele Linford, Adam Minchin, Michael more comfortable and Playford, Rebekah, Clive Rippon , Mick less intimidating. Sander, Brian Vine , Veronica Weber, David Woods. Reto Zollinger During the previous WASG expedition in REFERENCES 1996, about 600m of Pederson, H (1995) Jandamarra and the large swimming Bunuba resistance. Magabala Books passage had been Aboriginal Corperation. Broome. surveyed beyond the duck in Old Napier Downs Cave. At the Wagon Pass, Napier Range 11 Book Review
B sheet. The layout is intelligent and the survey data. Until this is clear and the composition of advertised survey-based work done Elevation, Plan and offset views by parties other than S. U. S. S. works extremely well. The scale has cannot be compiled with the data permitted the whole cave to be making up this publication and hence represented on a sheet that is not so will be of little value to everyone. large as to make interpretation difficult Nonetheless the section Surveying but still sufficient to resolve detail in and Maps gives a very good some of the more complex areas. In introduction and practical guide to the Tuglow Caves - Review particular the cave has been techniques used in surveying the by Mark Staraj represented with floor and wall detail Tuglow Caves and emphasises the that is not only informative but importance of the integrity of this A4 format, soft cover printed in colour, provides a very pleasing appearance. data. A reference for interested 72 pages printed b/w, published by All in all it is an excellently executed readers on survey reduction would Sydney University Speleological Society map. have been useful in this context. 1998, Photos 33 b/w, 2 colour plus photo index, Index and descriptions of all Still, some improvements could be The next section to receive close tagged features, most with maps. made with the labelling. Some of the attention would probably be the Sections include History, Biology, features referenced in the text such descriptions. Except for Tuglow Cave Geology and Hydrology and references. as Main Room, Olms Orrible Ole, these are included in a section on No general index. Fold-out maps of 2 Crystal Palace and most significantly their own with the relevant maps. caves - 81 and A3 sheets provided loose Shale Bands Canyon are not shown These are prefaced with a tag list for in back pocket. on the map. Also I would have the Tuglow karst area and the cave preferred use of mixed point sizes to descriptions follow sequentially. Tuglow Cave is one of the best wild distinguish between the features of These are well laid out, informative caves in New South Wales. So says the greater and lesser importance - for and clear. opening line of the Introduction to Tug/ow instance Singing Shawls . This might However the sequence of descriptions Caves a very recent publication of the also have resulted in making space for Tuglow Cave is not systematic in Sydney University Speleological Society. for more labels. In fact I can recall describing the cave in any obvious sense: for instance the similar glowing terms when seeking Pushhi Cave has also bee n included Upstream Sumps appears prior to the funding from the S.U.S.U. for the on separate A3 sheets for clarity but passages used to reach it eg. The publication of this book back in 1993 - the other maps have been printed Shale Bands anyon . The best Wet, long, sculptured and vertical, it with the text. All maintain the high approach for the descriptions in my remains one of the classic NSW caving standards of the Tuglow Cave map mind is to recognise that readers will trips. And so it is. and care has been taken to maintain be planning trips. The sequence and clarity and uniformity by using the structure within these sections should Anyone who has had the good fortune to same grid orientation of AMG North. clearly aid a reader in visualising, visit Tuglow Cave will agree with the planning and executing the likely trips One of the standout map inclusions is statements above. For this reason alone of interest. This would also highlight in the Geology and Hydrology section every N.S.W. caver should possess a the need to include in blow-up detail where 2 maps illustrate very clearly copy of this book. It is the first and only the sections of the map that would be both the geology of the area and publication on this significant cave most confusing to interpret for route Tuglow Cave s relationship to it. This system. It also contains the first ever finding. For instance the route is an extremely powerful tool to any published map and by far the most between the entrance and the river. cave explorer looking for clue s to comprehensive survey ever undertaken This section would also benefit from a understanding and locating more of - and also the only completed one. comprehensive index - no index at all the system. My only disappointment has been included. For instance if you And if you are one of those who are still with it is that it stops just short of had heard of the major route to the wondering what the fuss with Tuglow fulfilling its role - it should also back of the cave via Olms Orrible Ole Cave is all about then even a passing indicate locations for the other caves and wanted to suss it out you would look at this book will no doubt excite and probably a silhouette for Pushhi. have to skim the book to find it. interest. This book then will provide an This may in part have been a Nevertheless the descriptions are excellent and invaluable reference for necessary concession to private comprehensive in themselves and anyone planning a visit landowners. provide a blend of useful information However this books finest qualities would I would also have liked to have seen for navigation, a feel for the probably be most appreciated by those a checklist for all known Tuglow maps experience of each place, and who will never have the opportunity to to aid further research by the reader. illustrated with items o f interest. visit the cave. I am referring of course to The authors strongly emphasise the The History section is well presented the content and presentation of the _. material within it. There are many value and philosophy of sharing and features historical photos and aspects of this publication that merit information and reference occasions reproductions of old surveys and text. elaboration. in the past where previous prodigious It provides good coverage of efforts in surveying have benefited exploration history from earliest It is probably best to begin with the maps very few. It is one of the key reasons European acquaintance with the area contained in the map pocket at the back given for this book s existence and I through to cave discovery and cur of the book as without doubt this what all am in fundamental agreement with it. rent state of knowledge. In many cavers will study first. So I must draw attention to the most ways this is the hardest section of all Most obvious is the size and clarity of important deficiency of this book. It to put together in any state of the map. The cave has been drafted at does not contain instructions for how completeness and the authors must 1:50 0 scale and fits comfortably on the someone can obtain their own copy of be given substantial credit for the
12 Britannia Creek Rescue
result. Historical records by their nature many of these and most were taken scene both moody and mysterious. are scattered, contentious in respect of inside of the caves. An index is Hopefully one day we will see more of accuracy and frequently incomplete. provided for these. Excepting the these photos produced in colour. Nonetheless this section flows well and cover photos these are all reproduced Finally the other sections such as gives the reader a clear sense of the way in black and white. This is a great pity Caving Procedure, Introduction (which in which peoples, and in particular cavers as they all were originally in colour has directions on how to get to and governments attitudes to caves have and the b I ack and white versions Tuglow) and Biology are all useful altered with time. Hopefully this are somewhat flat and lack good inclusions respectively for visitors and commendable eft ort will entice those definition. By contrast if one interested experts. with further knowledge to contact the compares the rear cover colour photo authors to help fill in some of the obvious with its equivalent on page 36 its All in all this is an excellent gaps in the record. Again, an index apparent how much better the colour production and sets new standards in would be an invaluable help to the reproductions look. There is more Australian caving literature especially researcher but there is at least a texture, more variation, more interest for its maps. At $16 each it should comprehensive list of references. and more atmosphere. The cover represent excellent value for intending photo is another good example of this visitors and armchair readers alike. As for the photographs there are a good and catches the eye effectively with a Rescue at GP 48 Britannia Creel< 4th April 1999.
Personal notes made after the event by Mark Somers GP48 is a granite boulder filled stream organisation called out was the At this point, I decided that it was time channel that has created a cave. It is Wesburn CFA at approximately 3pm. they finally listened to a caver and designated as a recreational cave and No one at the scene was able to requested to assess the situation a is extensively used by many explain why there was such a time little closer. They finally agreed and I organisations for that purpose. delay in requesting assistance. Half an found that the person was stuck as Unfortunately, the close proximity to hour later, the Upper Yarra State described with a small gap above and Melbourne often attracts those with Emergency Service were called out below the patient. His muscles were little or no caving experience or and attended. They were told of the tense and he was becoming cold. equipment. This often necessitates the previous endeavors and decision was I decided to go around to the other end use of rescue services. This particular made to drill into the rock and break and explain what we were going to do area is serviced by the Upper Yarra off pieces in an attempt to enlarge the to get him out and directed that they State Emergency Service as the hole. I believe this was flawed from stop drilling. They reluctantly agreed. responsible authority. Apparently, their the start as gravity was still working The patient was crying when I got to training consists of their own in-house against them. him and was difficult to calm. He took practice but no formally structured At 3:41pm a message appeared on my the briefing of my plan well and this course. pager requesting I attend to assist. I alone raised his spirits. I also briefed In the afternoon of Sunday 4th April contacted the Ambulance dispatch the St Johns people who were with 1999, a group from the St John centre that confirmed that a cave him. Ambulance Cadets were in this cave. rescue was being undertaken, so I On return to the rear of the patient, I It is unknown the qualifications or responded. On my arrival, I noted that briefed the State Emergency Service experience of the persons leading this there were no ambulance vehicles in members about how we were going to group. attendance. I was immediately get him out. They took their positions approached by the police on scene Whilst progressing through the cave, a and in a co-ordinated effort of slight who briefed me and said it was all member of their group became stuck traction from the front, gentle pressure under control and that they were at an area known by local guides as from the rear and a lot of relaxing by drilling rocks and expected to have the 'childbirth'. The person was a large16 the patient - the patient was gently patient out in half an hour. They didn't year old male, Vince Perry. He released from the position he had been believe that caver assistance would managed to get this chest through the in for the last four hours. He thanked be required at all. I expressed concern hole but when he got to his hips due to us and crawled out of the cave about the use of cutting equipment angles and gravity, became wedged in unassisted. The usual massed media especially so close to the patient and a V formation between two rocks. The then interviewed him. the police suggested I go down and actual time this occurred was around further assess the situation. This rescue shows many issues that 1pm (this time is an estimate based cavers have known for some time. upon who you speak with at the After approximately one hour of drilling scene). with an electric hammer drill, above 1. Untrained/experienced persons an active streamway, centimetres from should not take groups caving Being aware of the media implications, the patient, they had managed to they were reluctant to call for 2. If prompt assistance is called, then break away a piece of rock about 25 assistance and tried pulling and the patient gets extracted sooner. em and achieved little. At this point, pushing this person in attempts to get they revised there estimate of an 3. Teamwork is important him out. They tried lubricating the expected time of extrication -another persons wet clothes with oil, Vaseline 4. Keep It Simple S ...... four hours. The stuck person was and the like to no avail. They had an becoming increasingly distressed by 5. If you listen to caver's then we can off duty ambulance MICA paramedic the drilling and hammering with no help - We do this for fun as part of their group. progress. He had been stuck about 4 The first emergency service hours by this stage.
13 Bulmer Rescue
Bulmer Cavern Rescue Jan 1999 Lindsay Main (South Owen Expedition organiser). On 28th December 1998 12 cavers they dressed as best they could. He had Another team was given the task of assembled at Bulmer Lake, Mt Owen, for severe bruising all down his left side, trying to devise an alternative route at the 13th South Owen Expedition. Three of particularly to the wrist, knee and ankle. the top of The Lions Den, the pitch the group - Kieran McKay (Turangi), They suspected broken bones, and later series which connects the upper and Marcus Thomas (Christchurch), and Rob breaks were confirmed to the jaw and left lower levels, which had been the site of Gillespie (USA) - left for Bulmer Cavern to arm. major rock-falls in the past and was spend three nights at Camp 2, which was After strapping his arm and splinting considered too dangerous for a rescue established last year as an exploration his leg, they were able to get Kieran operation. The remaining three made base for new extensions beyond the back up the pitch and started the trip preparations for the arrival of the rescue previous limit of exploration in the back to Camp 2, normally about 1-1 1/2 teams. Marcus was sent to bed. Soupmix area. hours. This took 6-7 hours, with Kieran The first rescue team of three arrived Bulmer Cavern is New Zealand's walking most of the way and being mid-afternoon and included Michael longest cave, with over 50 km of assisted up pitches and climbs. Then Brewer, a doctor who had recently been passages surveyed to date. The new they settled him for a long wait. involved in exploration beyond Camp 2. extensions have given a long-awaited After a brief sleep, Marcus, who After their departure to the cave a boost to exploration, adding 10 km during fortunately knows the route through the rescue headquarters was set up and several camping trips by small teams. cave extremely well, set off for the another team of four strong cavers left to The cave is complex, with several old surface at around 2 am on the morning support the medical team, taking a phreatic levels and a streamway of New Years Eve, arriving at Bulmer rescue stretcher. The stabilisation team interconnected by vadose rifts and shafts. Lake at 8 o'clock while people were from the expedition reached Kieran and There are seven entrances and the depth having breakfast and preparing for the Rob mid-afternoon and John set to work is 7 48 metres. The passage is all day's caving. After a brief discussion we to treat properly Kieran's injuries, wkile contained within an area about three swang into action. The Police were Andrew returned to the surface with kilometres from north to south and a few alerted via the Mountain Radio Service, Rob. The medical team reached Camp hundred metres wide. and a few cellphone calls were made to 2 late on New Years' Eve, and the On the first caving day those based at key people to speed the process up. A stretcher team a couple of hours later. Bulmer Lake rigged down the Erebus team of three - John Atkinson, Julian Later, in the evening, the two Passage to The Labyrinth area, at a Stone, and Andrew Matthews - was cable-laying teams started - one to work depth of about 400 metres, or toured despatched to Camp 2 to assist Kieran. from the entrance to the bottom of the around the upper levels of the cave. pitches at The Roaring Lion, and the Most rested on the second day. At other from The Roaring Lion to the Camp 2 Rob, Kieran, and Marcus site of the rescue. surveyed about 200 metres of Both teams made good progress passage on the first day, and on the and the two wires were linked, giving second day headed for a promising telephone access as far as the area involving some small shafts. New Wildwest area, at about Bam on New Kieran descended a shaft to the top Years' Day. The deep team of a second one, and prusikked back Zealand continued to the Soupmix area, up again to swap the ropes around. meeting Kieran and the rescuers Just as he was about to descend about three hours later. Kieran had again, a large rock ballard to which been dragged in the stretcher the rope was anchored broke loose through some of the low parts, but and hit him, causing him fall about 15 was walking with assistance along metres, landing on rocks at the most passages. There were enough bottom. people present to use a direct haul While Marcus and Rob were on any climbs. The cable-layers re-rigging the rope and descending, accompanied the group to the Kieran crawled clear of the base of Awesome Aven, a forty-metre the pitch (which was dripping flat-floored pitch, and then returned heavily), and apparently lost to the surface. A feature of the consciousness. When the others communications on this rescue was reached him he was moaning and a VHF link from the telephone base incoherent. He was bleeding heavily at the entrance to the rescue from a deep cut under the jaw, which controllers at the Lake, enabling
14 Bulmer Rescue those underground to talk directly to the controllers without the need for relaying. The Awesome Aven was a formidable obstacle which was intended to be re-rigged for the rescue, but because of Kieran's mobility and the availability of enough people and rope, he was hauled using the existing pitch rope, with a safety rope. Then the team moved on through the Wildwest-Wildcat area, arriving at the old campsite in the Octopus Room in the evening. Here they stayed the night. Meanwhile rigging teams were working in the Lions Den to ensure that this phase of the rescue would operate smoothly. A deep rigging team was to be despatched, but Kieran's speed continually confounded planning and none of the further pitches was re-rigged. However, the rescue team was carrying sufficient rope to deal with each obstacle as they reached it. On the next day, January 2nd, a second rescue team relieved those who had stayed overnight at the Octopus Room, and started moving Kieran forward again. By now retrieval of gear was a priority, and other teams had entered the cave to carry out superfluous equipment behind the rescue team. Several such teams of "cleaners" were used during the rescue. Kieran now seemed to be walking more readily, and his increased speed meant plans were continually changed and ETAs updated. He reached the Roaring Lion around midday, was hauled up the 20 metre pitch to Castration Corridor. The narrowness of the passage and the small pitches caused little delay, and the team was at the base of the two 40 metre Lions Den pitches at around two o'clock. These had been set up with hauls, with a long tyrolean rigged above the upper pitch so Kieren McKay during the rescue. that the very loose section there was avoided. This worked like a charm and Meanwhile cleaning teams worked on well and did what was required to make Kieran's landing on level ground in the de-rigging the ropes, winding the phone the rescue happen. upper levels, along with a brief interview, cable back, and lugging all the gear out The usual absurd statements was recorded by a TV3 cameraman who of the cave. This wasn't completed until appeared in the media, with ridiculous just happened to be there. With the whiff the following afternoon. A debrief was comments about crawling under 5 km of of the entrance in his nostrils there was held on the morning of the 3rd, and then parked cars (there are no squeezes and no holding Kieran back, and he made the rescuers were flown out. The very few crawls in Bulmer). There were good time to Panorama Entrance, expedition members continued until the also the usual outraged taxpayers assisted by numerous additional 7th as planned, but everyone was tired complaining about the rescue's cost, but handlines which had been installed over and very little was achieved. generally these were treated with the some of the scary traverses and climbs. Overall, the rescue was hugely contempt they deserve. All in all it was a At around 3.30pm he was picked up by a successful and things ran very smoothly. very successful operation. helicopter from Panorama Entrance and There were some minor hiccups, as you taken to Bulmer Lake, before being flown would expect on an operation of this to Nelson Hospital. size, but generally people worked very
15 New Finds Near Kempsey New Finds Near Kempsey Phil Lardner Storm Pipe Cave WW79 Water could be heard running from at the spring and it was showing signs the surface, and now that we were at of green colour change getting Sunday 28th February '99. water level the noise was quite stronger and stronger as time went on. dominant. While Madelyn and David The time from putting dye in and a Party: Phillip Lardner, Madelyn stayed on a rock at water level, Phillip colour change on the surface was one Lardner (age 3), Debbie Hannan & climbed out over the water into a very hour. It did peak in colour before David Collett. small side passage where the noise becoming fainter. All up a really good Having had a very wet summer, was greatest and observed the rapids trip - quite worthwhile. David Collett rang up this morning of water flowing though the passage. (David is the owner of a farm in the He emptied a container of the Upper MacLeay, west of Kempsey, on fluorescent marine dye into the water Bathtub, Eastern and th mid-North coast of NSW, which has and climbed back to the small rock to quite a few good sporting caves) to rejoin Madelyn and David. Western Block of say that the creek in the gully was We chatted for a while about our Limestone, Upper flowing lightly, so we drove up with adventures in this cave and about how Stockyard Creek caving gear and a container of it always seems to come up with new fluorescent marine dye marker. passages & grand formations, & taking 23rd-24th May '99. Phillip, Madelyn and David climbed in our watery surrounds before our Party: Phillip Lardner, Eric Walsh, down into the cave using a 15m tape climb out. On the way up Madelyn said Martin Woshizka, Bev Smith, John and a 1Om tape tied to Madelyn. Phillip "I don't think this is going to work", 3- Tabyor, David Collet and CoiStafford went in first followed by Madelyn, who year-olds seem to have a way with staying at Kookaburra with the ladies was lowered down. David then came words. netball team (good on ya Col). down, holding the tape to Madelyn, Once on the surface and back in while Debbie stayed on the surface in the rain we closed up the entrance and After Martin Bev and john had the rain. Once the 15m tape ran out rolled up our climbing tapes. Then we travelled down the coast from different we climbed down with Madelyn being set off down to the gully with David towns to South-West Rocks for the lowered and climbing with her own using a pink 3-year-old's umbrella for night, we had an early breakfast at the torch. Once at the bottom of the climb shelter. Rocks and we set off to David's farm. we found that the hall that we had Once there a cup of tea and play lunch many digs in was level with water. The No coloured water at this stage so was had before we set off to way into Storm Pipe was blocked off over to the house for a few cups of Haydenville. Once at Haydenville we totally with water, level to where we tea. Upon returning to the spring there got the packs from the vehicles and col were satnding. Make a hell of a diving was only a faint colour of dye so off for drove the dual cab back to Kookaburra trip! more tea and talking about the big for the night, to come back between 3 cave we'll find one day. Another look and 5 pm Sunday .
. , ; ; Mud slope./;'4 ~
VERY MUDDY
reamway-. ....' PLAN : j. i i Sketch of extension /~ ,/~! R. Thomas Jun '94 ···;:;:/
2nd sump _,}J 1 {[_-~ 0~S-C-AL_E_..,0m rp· ,,,E~PLAN-·!\ ENT
SCALE D. L. Section /} J-crvstal Water level at Feb '99 trip ....J . Wall ~-- .. r r,t_ ' ·.Upper level ~-> s ) ! ---. ' ~-. j < -14m lr--r--t--r----+--:;1 · .• :·:... ,_Q:.d t~~-. sq. f ~ ..... - -. -' 10m DEVELOPED LONG SECTION Sandy slrHm passage k,,,.mp -~---
Tide mark 1st sump Storm Pipe Cave, WW79 J.Taylor Nov '93
16 Speleo Synopsis
Off we set, down towards Bat Cave walking and climbing downhill over Back at camp a few billies of tea area and checked out limestone over a limestone outcrops from here on. Once were put on the fire and lunch was large area. John found a new cave that at our campsite some put up tents, made. John,Eric, David and Bev Phillip got stuck in. Martin pulled him others got firewood and it got dark. started walking out well before Martin out and had a go himself and got a Dinner was had and we went to sleep and Phillip. Once camp was packed up little further in but it didn't seem to go early. and a last billy of tea had we started much more anyway. walking out on a different route than On Sunday we walked up to we walked in on. We found quite a few So it was packs on and on we went Roleyn Cave and Eric, Martin and interesting holes well worth a look at Phillip pushed the cave off the map to looking at more limestone and walking on a future trip into the Eastern Block towards a knob on the ridge going one side. We did not go right through area. We cought up with everybody at down to the Eastern Block. John was to the end as they explored an old the knob and had a drink and some in front and we pushed and bashed watercourse and pushed that till we fruit before setting off on a different our way through thick rainforest, were stuck and needed pulling out. route than the previous day through stinging nettle and stinging trees, over On the way back we pushed a few the rainforest. It was a much better on and under logsand it went on like this other side passages that stopped after at that, without all the thick for a long, long time. Sometime later we a while. Once back at the point from undergrowth and stinging nettles and got to a dry timbered ridge, had a late where we had turned off, we could not stinging trees. Martin climbed over a lunch and set off down the ridge to the seem to find the same way back to large dead tree, some metres from the knob. Anyway, we covered more where we'd started from. After looking ground, fell through it and out the side ground which is more trogging. From for about 15 minutes we climbed over {it was a really large old tree), down here we followed the ridge down to a a large rock face and down to the through a thick carpet of ferns to the large limestone outcrop making an bottom of the large chamber - the point ground, pack and all. outstanding lookout of three valleys where we'd set off on out side trip below running into one. From here we made our way along from. From here we set of towards the one creek and into another before a At the top end of the Eastern few really good climbs and squeezes climb up to the Bat Cave. Some took Block, and down the hill from there, towards the surface. Marty using his of quite fast, not wanting to get stuck David found a new cave. Martin went video camera took film of Eric and in the thick rainforest in the dark like in after the entrance had been cleared, Phillip coming through the squeezes their last trip in here after mapping going along one passage before using and upper tunnels towards the Roley's Caves. So, picking our way up a tape to go down into a second entrance, ready for another trip into the the ridge in semi-darkness under thick passage. On coming out he had a two area - for more trogging and caving. rainforest we got to the open track litre container, a drink bottle, yet it was Bev was on the surface waiting for where in better light we walked to a new cave when you look at the us, we had been underground for just Haydenville and our vehicles as night amount of rock we moved from the on four hours and bev had eaten out set in. entrance. The bottle had Rheem fruit etc while we were caving, so it stamped into it so the cave was tagged was back to camp for lunch. and named Rheem cave. It was on with the packs and more SPELEO SYNOPSIS No 26 January -- March 1998 by Peter Ackroyd
AUSTRALIA NEW ZEALAND complete this journal.
The Western Caver 37 {1997) NZ Speleo Bulletin 180 {December NZ Speleo Bulletin 182 (June 1997) This issue contains a list of cave 1996) This issue is given over to a report of descriptions for Cape Range in This issue has a summary of all known the 1990 Czech expedition to Mount Western Australia. There is an interim caves in the lowland karst areas of Owen {South Island) when two major cave list for Wanneroo. a new cave Takaka and Aorere Valleys, north-west caves, Bohemia (3.5 kilometres long, area, formerly part of the Yanchep of Nelson, South Island. The summary 393 metres deep) and Achenar (1.5 area in Western Australia's south-west. includes a species list from two of the kilometres long, 252 metres deep} A report of a mid 1996 trip to the caves. In other articles there is a were discovered. Kimberleys is also in this issue. discussion of Maori rock art sites in New Zealand and a report on isopods NZ Speleo Bulletin 183 (September lllawarra Speleo Society Newsletter from Babylon Cave on the west coast of 1997) 4{3) {September 1998) the South Island. In this issue there are articles on A history of organised caving in the several small caves found on Mount lllawarra area of NSW, from 1946 to NZ Speleo Bulletin 181 (March 1997) Owen; Crash Cave, a 300 metre long the present, is contained in this issue. Reports of Ellis Basin trips {South cave found at Makuri; an accident Island) and exploration and diving in report from Gardeners Gut cave and Speleo Spiel 310 {September/October HH, a 560 metre deep cave in the Ellis, two articles on a diving trip into the 1998) take up much of this issue. A review of Pearce Resurgence, Mount Arthur, In this issue there is a listing of all the cave rescue procedures and a summary where Dave Weaver drowned. His known caves in the Hastings, Ida Bay of recent discoveries in the body was subsequently recovered from and North Lune karst areas. Whakapunake and Paturau areas 85 metres depth of water, two years
17 Speleo Synopsis after his death. An index for issues Another article on the Klovberg Caves, bats hibernating in a well used tourist 161-180 is included with this issue. which are located in a Stockholm cave. Results indicate the frequency of suburb, reveals that the cave, human visitation affects only the EUROPE discovered in 1972, has become location of the hibernating bats, not extremely popular. their number. Cave and Karst Science 24(3) (December 1997) Stalactite 2196- 1/98 (Switzerland) Descent 143 (August/September This issue contains papers on 'organ These four issues of the Swiss 1998) pipes' (solution tubes) in a gypsum Speleological Society's journal are Ogof Draenen, a cave in Wales, is cave in Russia; the tufa and travertine written in French and German. Issue again in the news with the 1.1 deposits of the Grand Canyon in USA; 2/96 contains reports of new caves and kilometre long Prisoners of War limestone quarry revegetation in passages found in Switzerland's lapiez extension discovered in mid 1998. Also Australia and the effects on country. A review of "Boomerang" brand in this issue, Jim Eyre discovers that groundwater of micro-porosity and rechargeable batteries and a history of after 40 years' experience, he is cavities in limestone in Tennessee, Switzerland's longest (Holloch, 171.4 unaccredited and needs to take a USA. In the Discussion section, some kilometres) and deepest (Sieben caving course, costing 95 pounds broken flowstone sheets in caves in Hengste-Hohgant-Hohle, 1,340 metres) sterling. There is a race against time the UK are attributed to earthquake caves complete that issue. Issue 1/97 for divers in the Resel Resurgence. activity. carries an article on assessing the age France, before it is closed in October and history of caves using speleothems. 1998. International Caver 22 (1998) Also included are several articles on A series of expeditions to the caves of karst hydrology in some parts of Cave and Karst Science 25(1) (April the north-east Indian state of Switzerland. Issue 2/97 consists of an 1998) Meghalaya is the lead article in this index of all issues of Stalactite and This issue contains a paper on the age issue. The longest cave in India, Krem issue 1/98 has a summary on the 1997 of fossils of warm climate animals, Kotsati-Umlawan (19.2 kilometres) was IUS Congress, an article on the use of including hippopotamuses and found and explored during these trips, GPS in Switzerland and more hyaenas, found in a cave at Kirkdale, which were conducted in the 1990s. information on batteries for caving northern England. Dates of 121 ,000 We also learn about the Cave Racer, lights. years before present were deduced. a troglobitic snake found in Southeast The reconstruction of the original Asia, and of Gruta do Centenario Caves & Caving 80 (Summer 1998) environment of Oligocene-aged island (Brazil), at 454 metres, the deepest The use of ground probing radar (GPR) remnants in Florida, USA; a description quartzite cave in the world. to look for new cave passages is of ancient caves in the United Arab described in this issue. Capable of Emirates; a reconnaissance trip to Descent 141 (April/May 1998) penetrating to 30 metres in well drained karst in Zambia; a historical Martyn Farr is still diving and in this karst, GPR has been used to locate two reconstruction of the use, in the 17 40s, issue he tells us of Schwyll Spring, a good cave prospects which will be of speleothems from Wookey Hole, new cave he has dived to a length of drilled and a down-hole camera lowered UK. in Alexander Pope's "grotto", and 600 metres. Later in the issue, Dave to check them out. A story about a cave abstracts from the 1998 BCRA Checkley gives us his thoughts on diving trip to the Blue Holes in the conference complete the issue. caving in northern Spain. Bahamas is made more interesting by the revelation that one team member Slovensky Kras 34 (1996) (Slovakia) Descent 142 (June/July 1998) had to be left behind so that the This 207 page journal from Slovakia The discovery of a cave containing a seaplane could take off. He was reports on speleological studies Bronze Age human skeleton is the eventually picked up by boat -- two and conducted in the area in 1996. Pre-Ice main feature in this issue. The 1997 a half days later! With some help from Age mammal remains, cave rescue report indicates there was an Australian caver, Migovec Cave in geomorphological and hydrological only one death in UK caves for that Slovenia was pushed to a depth of 958 studies, water pollution issues and year. metres in 1997. The 1998 expedition to summaries of karst features in parts of the cave hopes to make it deeper still. Slovakia are all included. Caves & Caving 79 (Spring 1998) In this issue we mainly read about Regards 31 (1998) (Belgium) Descent 145 (December British cavers abroad: the discoveries A trip report covering the exploration of 1998/January 1999) made in the Totes Gebirge area of some caves of Lebanon and two articles This issue contains a summary of the Austria, some inland caves in Norway on the Belgian caving regions of Haie 1998 BCRA conference. This is which contain sea shells from the last des Pauvres, which has stone age followed by an introduction to the most Ice Age, cave diving exploits in artefacts, and Piton de Ia Rochette, southerly caves on Earth -- on islands Mallorca, Spain and caving and diving near Liege, are contained in this issue. off Chile's Patagonia coast. The in the Matienzo area of Spain. deepest cave found in this area so far Regards 32 (1998) (Belgium) is 350 metres and conditions are so Grattan 2-98 (June 1998) (Sweden) A team, which included some Belgian severe the explorers recuperate in a In this issue we discover that voles in cavers, has been exploring caves in the fishing boat offshore rather than on Sweden have been found to be Cantabria region in Spain. To date they land. We learn that an IMAX film is carriers of a flu-like disease. have discovered 11 kilometres of cave being made about caving. Apparently Communicable to humans, it is passage. Also in this issue we learn the caves of Greenland are being used transmitted by inhaling dust containing about the funeral rites of Neanderthal as a set. There are short articles on the vole's faecal matter. A huge, 60 man and repositories of Neanderthal Iron Age human remains, including metre deep cleft in Nolby Hill near remains in Germany. A small karst skulls, being found by cave diggers Sundsvall, Sweden, is described. outcrop, Le Roche des Quartre Tours, and a steaming hot bat cave found in is described and a study is made of the Kalahari Desert.
18 Speleo Synopsis
International Caver 23 (1998) of the history of the group and its and Sweden is the lead article in the More exotic places in which to cave greatest discovery to date -- the issue. It is followed by an interview are revealed in this issue of deepest quartzite cave in the world, with Linda Heslop, a noted cave artist International Caver. An Italian Gruta do Centenario (454 metres). A from Canada, and a report on the sea expedition to the southern Chinese map of the cave is included. caves of California, USA. region of Ziyun (Guizhou province); a snapshot of the caves and karst of Georgia Underground 33(4) (May NSS News 56(11) (November 1998) northern Bavaria, Germany; a trip to 1998) This issue is taken up with reports on the caves of south Oman by Slovenian Interesting articles on new cave the NSS Convention held in Sewanee, cavers; a 402 metre deep cave found discoveries and a report of a cave Tennessee, in August 1998. in Mexico by a small international team rescue in the TAG (Tennessee, and a description of a 865 metre long Alabama, Georgia) area of the USA are Nittany Grotto News 45(4) Tyrolean traverse over a 400 metre in this issue. (November 1998) deep chasm in Slovakia. There is also There are some entertaining and an index to the first 20 issues of NSS News 56(5) (May 1998) informative articles about mapping and International Caver. The hydrology, exploration and biological sampling trips to Mexico in surveying of the 2.5 kilometre long this issue. AMERICAS Qualkinbush Cave System in Indiana, USA, is the lead article in this issue. Journal of Cave and Karst Studies NSS News 55(12) (December 1997) There follows a roundup of activities in 60(3) (December 1998) A gripping tale of the blasting and Sistema Cheve, a 1.4 kilometre deep The lead article in this issue is on lava further exploration of Close to the cave in Oaxaca, Mexico, from its stalactites and other lava features Edge, a cave in British Columbia, discovery to 1997. Finally, an analysis found in Hawaii. There are also papers Canada, is in this issue. The cave was of an abseiling accident that lead to the on limestone karst in Hawaii, gypsum discovered in a remote mountainous death of an experienced caver in Fern speleothems of freezing origin, area in 1985. It has a 245 metre deep Cave, Alabama, USA, finds that no geochemistry of caves in entrance shaft and another short shaft specific cause can be found. Turkmenistan, cave dwelling beetles in which once ended at "The Crack" -- a Cuba, measurements of dissolved gap with a blowing draught. The Crack NSS News 56(6) (June 1998) carbon in Marengo Cave, Indiana, was finally opened in September 1994, This issue discusses the effects of USA, and the current status of a cave resulting in a total cave depth of 433 earthquakes on cave decoration and the amphipod from Illinois, USA. metres. Leads still remain. There is discovery, exploration and surveying of also a· report on the 12th International the 2.6 kilometre long Ka'eleku Caverns 0 Carste 10(4) (October 1998) Speleological Congress held in lava tube on the Hawaiian island of (Brazil) Switzerland in August 1997. Maui. This issue is a special one devoted to reports from the 1997 exploration of NSS News 56(2) (February 1998) 0 Carste 10(3) (July 1998) (Brazil) caves in the Brazilian province of Sao This issue carries articles about a A report on karst features in Malta; Domingos, Goias. gypsum cave in New Brunswick, speleobiology of caves in Quaternary Canada, a cave dive in Papoose Cave, limestone in north-eastern Brazil; 0 Carste 11(1) (January 1999) Idaho, USA and a man-made cave dug speleological potential in the quartzites (Brazil) into a hill in North Carolina. The ten of Sao Paulo, Brazil and a summary of The south-western corner of the state most endangered karst ecosystems speleological research currently being of Bahia in Brazil has only recently are described in this issue also. undertaken in Brazil are in this issue. been opened up. The region has plentiful karst and caves, including the Journal of Cave and Karst Studies Journal of Cave and Karst Studies 8.5 kilometre long Gruna da Agua 60(1) (April 1998) 60(2) (August 1998) Clara. In this issue, we learn of the This issue is devoted to a series of significance of condensation in a studies conducted on the Isla of Mona, . cave's development and water flow. Peurto Rico -- an island composed Last Speleo Synopsis! There are several articles on the entirely of carbonate material which has climate, biology and mineralogy of been raised to 20 to 70 metres above I regret that this instalment of Speleo Torgac Cave, New Mexico; a summary sea level by uplift. Hydrology, geology, Synopsis, my 26th, is my last. Over of the distribution of obligate paleontology, history and speleology of the last few months I have found it cavernicoles in the USA and Canada; the island are some of the topics progressively more difficult to gain snow caves in Mount St Helens, covered. access to the various newsletters and Washington State; minerals in some journals that come to the Victorian club caves in New Mexico and a paleoflow NSS News 56(7) (July 1998) of which I am a member. model inferred from caves in Brazil. A harrowing tale about seven cavers caught in a flooding cave in Costa Rica I would like to think that Speleo NSS News 56(3) (March 1998) is the lead article in this issue. Synopsis has been of some benefit to This is a special conservation issue. It Fortunately, they all survived the readers of Australian Caver over the has articles about conserving cave experience. From the same region 13 years I have written it. I think it wildlife and caves in the US. comes two other stories -- one about important that we all keep in touch with caving in Cuba and another about the the wider world of caving and to this 0 Carste 10(2) (April 1998) (Brazil) caves of Cayman Brae in the Cayman end encourage anyone who has good This issue marks the 15th anniversary Islands. access to speleological and caving of the speleo group which publishes journals to continue the series. this high quality journal. In it we learn NSS News 56(10) (October 1998) The story of a visit to caves in Norway
19 Cave Rescue Series CAVE RESCUE SERIES No 1.- Equipment Used in Caves By Mark Somers (This article first appeared in Nargun)
There is a large range of equipment available for patient Laerdal and Stiffneck, have numerous sizes (up to eight per retrieval underground. Many people sing the praises of one set depending on which brand) and they retail at around $35 particular apparatus for a variety of reasons. Maybe they each. They provide the basis for any spinal care. Older soft feel comfortable with it, perhaps it is what they were foam collars and cardboard based collars should not be originally trained on, or possibly just because that is· what used because any benefits are lost to their limitations. If they have. The one thing to remember is - nothing is perfect. cervical collars are to be used, then the appropriate rescuer training must be undertaken. In this article, I will discuss the more commonly used pieces of rescue equipment used in the Victorian emergency Kendrick Extrication Device (KED) services. That, of course, does not mean they are the best, Originally designed for motor racing, the Kendrick but they are what you are most likely to come across should Extrication Device (KED) provides good immobilisation of the the need arise. As with any piece of equipment, their use cervical and thoracic spine when used in conjunction with an should be restricted to those with formal training and appropriate cervical collar. It is designed to place "handles" ongoing re-training. on a person and therefore make it easier to move them. Spinal Care They cost around $250:00. The take approximately five minutes to fit in ideal circumstances A simple rule of thumb is every patient has a spinal injury until proven otherwise. This MUST be assumed for Basket Stretchers anyone who has: The Basket Stretcher, also known as a Stokes Litter after 1. Falls from heights greater than 1.2 metres the most common brand, have been the traditional rescue 2. Significant blows to the head stretcher for many years. They were initially made from 3. Struck on head by objects aluminum and wire, but are now also available in fiberglass 4. Landing heavily on feet or buttocks or aluminum. These latter models provide better protection 5. Pains in the neck after any accident from rough edges. Basket stretchers can be fitted with head 6. Any changes to sensations after accidents - (i.e. loss of and face protection. The main drawbacks with basket control, pain or no feeling. stretchers is their bulkiness and the difficulty putting patients in and getting them out again, particularly if spinal injuries In these cases, the patient needs some form of cervical are suspected. spine immobilisation. This is usually achieved by using collars. The common brands of spinal collars, Vertibrace, Paraguard Stretcher The paraguard is an aluminum and vinyl folding rescue stretcher that fully encloses the patient. The have the benefit of being partially flexible (by bending in the middle) whilst still holding the patient securely. They have head, chest, ••• thigh and foot restraints. Newer designs incorporate telescopic carry handles as well as the standard tow, lifting and carrying handles. '''·''''"'''··.. .,,,,,,,,,. ,,,,,,,,, ''''""; Spine Board The spine board stretcher is a flat fibreglass board that is primarily designed to lift patients. The patient is placed on the board and then strapped down to prevent sliding off. These boards are not flexible and their use underground would be limited to larger caves or where a rough surface may be encountered (such as lava tubes). Conclusion Over the next few editions, I will delve more deeply into these various rescue devices and stretchers, their advantages and disadvantages. No one device should be considered perfect for each and every situation and therefore those people who are, or maybe, involved in a rescue must fully understand any limitations. Bibliography Mark Somers is a Clinical Instructor with the Metropolitan Ambulance Service in Melbourne. Mark also operates Adventure Tag Along Tours, an outdoor adventure pursuits tour company and has had many years caving and rescue experience. He is a member of the Victorian Speleological Association and The Caving Club of Victoria.
20 Thailand 1997 Thailand 1997 Terry Bolger The Canberra Speleological plains with their patchwork of fields. .Hd:u Society (CSS) has been active in K"MI•I.:" The vegetation is the first indicator exploring the caves of Thailand of the geological setting, with the since the early 1980's. I joined the LAOS sandstone areas often covered by 1996 CSS I Thai Royal Forest secondary forest, while the more Department (RFD) expedition to rugged and dissected limestone Lam Khlong Ngu forest reserve and areas remain the habitat of pristine the combination of good caving, forests with denser vegetation of comraderie and Thai hospitality darker colour. Some isolated karst hooked me. Early in 1997 I was towers left over by the backward faced with the prospect of not erosion of the main plateau loom getting my expedition caving 'fix' for over the flat fields, adding to the the year. Other commitments had picturesque character of the prevented me from joining either the landscape. However, these Australian expedition to Vietnam or relatively pure limestone towers are an American expedition to Borneo. an easy target for the local mining I decided that I could squeeze in a industry, and some towers have short trip to Thailand in late April been quarried away completely and went about organising a small leaving scars on the landscape. team from Australia to explore Just behind the ranger station, a caves in conjunction with colleagues small stream emerged from a from the Thai RFD. Don Glasco, a resurgence located at the base of fellow CSS caving mate, and Georg the cliffline. Walking up the slope, Kaufmann, a seasoned expedition we arrived at the rim of a huge caver at the ANU, were both eager collapse entrance, providing a steep to come along. I also recruited access to Tham Dao (Star Cave). Perth cavers Linda Fellows and At the bottom of the entrance, we Graham Innes, whom I'd become good friends with on the 1995 '------'------'----~"' soon found ourselves wandering in a sizeable passage 10 to 15 meters Vietnam expedition. The trip was led by our friends wide and 5 meters high and becoming larger in some Nopparat Naksathit and Dean Smart from the RFD. This places. Only one low duck slowed progress up the stream was a light and fast trip. In two weeks we surveyed nearly passage which meandered in a northerly direction before 9 km of cave in three national parks: Thung Salaeng Luang ending abruptly in an upstream sump. Two teams in Phitsanulok province, Tham Chaoram in Sukothai completed the 1100 meter survey in a few hours during the province, and Sri Nakarind in Kanchanaburi province. afternoon of arriving at Ban Mung; a good way to stretch our The evening of our arrival we were met at Bangkok legs and a good start to the expedition. We had an airport by Nop and Dean, and headed straight to Thung enjoyable evening of dining, drinking and socialising with our Salaeng Luang. For four days, our base camp was the Ban hosts, assistant chief Wasan Thuphichit and his staff at the Mung ranger station, situated directly at the cliffline of a station. They joined us in our explorations, and also huge karst tower on the southwestern slopes of the park. prepared the meals and prov1ded other logistical support. The general landscape in this area is characterised by the The next morning we drove up to the northern end of the smooth, rounded relief of Triassic/Jurassic sandstones. limestone outcrop to a cave called Tham Phra Wang Daeng Along the southwestern edge of the park, Permian (Monk's Red Palace Cave). The large entrance was located limestones outcrop, and the geomorphology is dominated by on the grounds of a forest monastery, and we were told a steep, rugged karst towers overlooking the flat outwash story that it took a monk three days of walking to get to the end of the cave and back out. The entrance section of Tham Phra Wang Daeng is a huge collapse chamber with two entrances facing each other. A foot path crosses through the upper levels, passing several golden buddhas. Two bamboo platforms for monks were erected in the middle of the entrance chamber. On the opposite site, the path continues to the downstream entrance of the cave. The team of Dean, Georg, Graham and several Thai rangers headed upstream through a door installed at the bottom of a steep boulder pile in the entrance chamber. Inside, the steep descent over large boulders continues, finally dropping over a concrete stairway to the bottom of the first (entrance) boulder choke. Here the stream is reached. Downstream the water quickly disappears into the boulder choke, but it
Waiting for the minibus at Sri Nakarin Ranger Station. Clockwise from front left: Don Glasco, Terry Bolger. Georg Kaufmann, Dean Smart, Nopparat\ Naksathit and Graham Innes (photo Linda Fellows 21 Thailand 1997
can be rejoined after a few hundred meters from the into the stream provides the energy source for a rich and downstream entrance. Upstream, a huge gallery opened into diverse fauna in this section of the cave. We noted several the darkness, just waiting for exploration ... specimen of fish, crayfish, shrimp, crabs, centipedes, cockroaches and a python. This richness of biological life Some gours damming the stream soon led to the first already encountered in the upstream section is even more swim. Here a steep climb to the right (looking upstream) was diverse in the downstream part and will be a challenge for rewarded by a large buddha image and the remains of a cave biologists. toilet! An even steeper climb on the left over muddy flowstone, rigged by the local monks with a thick knotted 200 meters downstream there is a large karst window on rope, led to an upper dry gallery some 30 meters higher the left with the surface about 40 meters above stream level. decorated with buddha images, umbrellas and a 15 m high Another 50 meters along we encountered a junction with the stalagmite. At the far end of the bypass. a slippery boulder choice of a large, dry upper level, or a swim through a pile leading down to the stream was negotiated, this time suddenly reduced-size passage of 3x3 meters continuing without the help of a handline. This bypass can be used downstream. to avoid the first swim. Back down at stream level. a The Thai rangers had explored ahead and were waiting large pool was encountered, which hosts an abundance of for the survey team at the entrance to the upper level, a at least two new species of white cave fish . The small fish short climb above the stream, which seemed to them to be are a Schistura spp. and the large fish are Barbus spp. the sensible direction to go. To their dismay we decided to Also, what appears to be a new crab and a new shrimp continue surveying downstream first. The deep water is species, both troglobitic, were noted. Beyond the first pool, interspersed with sections of gours and several 1 to 3 meter the passage left the boulder choked entrance area and gave waterfalls. A 2.5 meter waterfall into a deep swim was way to several hours of walking, swimming and bouldering rigged with a handline, but shortly beyond we were stopped along the superb and spectacular vadose passage of the for the day after about 500 meters of survey at the top of a main streamway. The size of the gallery started at about 10 4 meter flowstone cascade for lack of SAT (single-rope meters wide and 5 meters high, but successively increased technique) gear. On the surface we dried off in the late to a width of 25-30 meters and a height of 20-25 meters. afternoon sun. As the sun was setting, there was still no After a little over 2 km, a second huge collapse area was sign of the upstream team. I mentioned to Nop in an reached. The entire river passage is blocked by a huge offhand way that it would sure be nice if we had some cold boulder choke, giving access to a large, dry boulder room at beer. One of the Thai rangers got on the two-way radio, roof level. Here a major fault zone is intersected by the and we were told that cold beer was on the way from the cave, as a result the ceiling has collapsed with its overlying nearby Ban Chomphu ranger station. Sunset turned to a sandstone layers, burying the stream passage for starlight night and there was still no sign of the other team approximately 100 meters. A thin red string marking the best or the beer. Finally a truck came up the road with beer, way through this unstable zone gave a glimpse of the AND a complete catered dinner of rice and several curries! tenacity of the monks, who explored the cave by candlelight. We spread out some ground cloths and had a fabulous After passing the second boulder choke, the active passage candlelight dinner under the stars. The other team returned continued in a southerly direction. from the cave in time to enjoy some of this feast. Our spirits were high and we were carrying on with much excitement The team of Don, Linda, Nop, a contingent of Thai and laughter. The upstream team of Dean, Georg, Graham rangers and I explored and surveyed downstream. The and several rangers had surveyed almost 150 stations in big downstream section of Tham Phra Wang Daeng is less stream passage, many of them 30 m shots! Our total for extensive than the upstream section. The entrance is at the the day was over 3.5 km of survey. No wonder we go all bottom of a large doline, past another golden Buddha. the way to Thailand for caving! Inside, the passage descends steeply, with stairs in places, to intersect the stream. The passage can be followed Two teams, each with a contingent of rangers, went back upstream for about 200 meters before becoming too small into the cave the next day. Don, Nop and I continued to continue. Half-way along a junction is reached. Straight ahead is a dry upper level passage over rock and flowstone. This seems to be an overpass above the stream level. It has unstable rock in some places and was not surveyed. A low air-space duck under to the right which becomes a swim across a deep pool must be negotiated to continue at stream level. This section is nicely decorated with flowstones, gours and stalactites. Downstream from the entrance series the passage is initially quite large (8 meters wide x 20 meters high), with a noisy colony of bats roosting in the ceiling above the stream. The guano dropping
Don Glasco, Linda Fellows and Graham Innes swimming along the Khlong Ngu towards Tham Nok Nang-An (Swallow Cave) (photo Terry Bolger). 22 Thailand 1997
also left unexplored. In two days we had surveyed 6.3 km in this cave. So perhaps the monk's story was true! Unfortunately, we had only allocated two days for this cave as our schedule was tight. In April1998 the Thailand Cave and Karst Group in cooperation with staff from Thung Salaeng Luang national park returned to Tham Phra Wang Daeng to continue the exploration and survey. In four days of exploration, including an overnight camp in the cave, they surveyed another 5.8 km of passage. The end of the cave was reached at a sump, but many side passages remain unexplored. At 12.1 km, Tham Phra Wang Daeng is now the second longest cave in Thailand, and is almost certain to surpass Mae Lana as the longest cave in Thailand when the side leads are surveyed on a return trip planned for December. Tham Phra Wang Daeng is perhaps the most significant cave in Thailand, given its geology, geomorphology, hydrology and biology. The main trend of the cave follows the contact of the Permian limestone with the Triassic/Jurassic sandstones. The cave displays some of the finest examples of vadose and phreatic passages in Thailand. In addition to its survey length, it has the longest continuous stream passage in Thailand at 10,250 m. The cave has a dendritic drainage pattern, where many small inlets and percolation water contribute most of the water in the cave during the dry season. This is unique in Thailand, where most active caves carry a single stream from a sink to a resurgence. Four new species have been identified in the cave already, and more are sure to follow when a proper biological survey is undertaken. Our final day at Thung Salaeng Luang we went to survey the third cave on our list, Along the stream passage in Tham Nok Nang-An (photo Terry Bolger). Tham Phra Sai Ngam (Monk's Beautiful Fig Tree Cave). This resurgence cave drains the downstream, descending the 4 meter cascade using SRT, central part of the limestone outcrop, but was not flowing at but we quickly found a free-climbable bypass off to the left the time of our visit. One team went in to explore while the of the cascade. Below the cascade there were a number of other team began surveying from the entrance. It was leads, and it was initially difficult to find where the water was another nice stream cave with more moderate-size going. A climb down through a rocky slot on the right wall passages averaging 5 to 10 meters wide and high, which provided the way on. Below, the water was quite still, and ended in a series of high avens. We surveyed 1200 m we meandered through about 200 meters of passage nicely before running out of time (again!), leaving about 500 m still decorated with stalactites and gours before encountering the to be surveyed. On the way out we did some photography, terminal sump. only to find out later that the film hadn't wound onto the We returned to the large, dry upper level which yielded spool. about 330 meters of passage. This section is nicely In the morning we thanked our hosts and loaded up the decorated with stalagmites, stalactites, columns and minibus to head for Tham Chaoram, north-west of the flowstone. The passage makes a loop, with a small karst ancient city of Sukhothai, the first capital of the Thai window seen at the far end of the loop accounting for the Kingdom. On the drive, Dean passed around an article on airflow in this section. At 1.2 kilometer the exploration and Tham Chaoram that he had written for International Caver. survey of the downstream section of Tham Phra Wang The descriptions of being covered and bitten by lice, fleas, Daeng is essentially complete. ticks, etc. didn't help enthuse people about our next Dean, Georg, Graham and Linda continued upstream in objective. However, we arrived to find a peaceful ranger a huge, wandering vadose canyon. The average passage station at the base of two lonely karst towers. The cave size was 10 m wide by 20 m high. The 30 m tape proved hosts a colony of wrinkle-lipped bats (Chaerephon plicata). ideal as the distances between bends was generally At dusk they began flying out of the cave, and we were between 25 and 35m! They finally had to turn around in this awed by the long, thick 'plume' of bats that lasted for 45 booming stream passage, and many side passages were minutes. We estimated their numbers to be from 1 to 2
23 Thailand 1997 million. Ranger station head Charoen Promma and his staff low airspace duck under flowstone. We continued upstream made us feel most welcome, providing a lovely evening of like this for 2 or more kilometers, stopping finally on a sand food, drink and conversation under the evening stars bank when we noticed high C02 concentrations. We were all breathing heavily, but still able to pull enough oxygen out In the morning, several intrepid explorers decided it was of the air. Don, Graham and Linda decided to turn back. a good day for a rest day. The braver (or more foolhearty) Georg, Nop, the Thai rangers and I continued on. However, among us prepared to go finish the survey of the cave. we too were stopped after a short distance by a slick Insect repellent was applied head to toe, and coveralls were flowstone drop without sufficient rope or SAT gear. We substituted for the usual Thailand caving attire of T -shirt and made a leisurely exit. taking pictures along the way. At the shorts. Just inside the entrance is a large chamber where entrance climb, Georg scoffed at the SBT until the 3 Thai the bats reside, and the floored is covered by large and rangers and Nop were up and out before he had even deep deposits of guano. Much of the guano was dry and gotten his SAT gear on ... that made a believer out of him! powdery, and clouds of fine guano dust were stirred up by each step. We were wearing dust masks, but they were We decided to make one last attempt at Tham Ban Nam basically ineffective. As we got near the back of this Mut. Loaded up with gear for any eventuality, Georg, Nop, chamber the guano was moister, so the dust subsided but several Thai rangers and I headed back into the cave. the invertebrate life teemed! At this point another intrepid Meanwhile, Don, Graham and Linda spent the day doing explorer decided he'd had enough and headed out. The first surface reconnaissance of the area above the cave using vertical pitch had a lot of guano and loose rock at the top the topo map and GPS, and maps and grid references from and required careful rigging. I rigged it re-belay style for the British army report. They determined that there were SAT, and Nop and Dean followed. However, our fellow Thai inconsistencies in the British report about which direction the rangers preferred "thick rope technique" over SAT, and cave went in . Back at the flowstone slope, I downclimbed several of them came down the pitch along with what an etrier into the streamway and swam off around an sounded like several tons of rock and guano! Amazingly S-bend. I encountered another flowstone plug with a low there were no broken bodies among the rubble, so we airspace duckunder, and called for Georg to follow me. The proceeded to a second pitch and our lead. We descended floor dropped away to a deep pool and we swam out from this pitch uneventfully, and it led to a lower level gallery with under the flowstone, about 20 m to a gravel bank. We a seasonal stream and two avens, but no obvious way on. climbed out of the water onto the bank, and attempted to Completing the exploration and survey added 220 m, catch our breath. Our lungs were working hard, but the making Tham Chaoram a little over 1 km long. There was feeling was one of suffocation. Knowing that we had to do more excitement on the way out as the Thai rangers climbed something quick, we took a chance and scrambled up to a the thick rope hand-over-hand up the 30 m pitch. Back balcony about 6 m above stream leveL This paid off, and through the large bat chamber the guano dust stuck to our although the C02 levels were still high, we were able to parched throats, and we arrived back at camp late to find catch our breath. From this vantage point we could see the the others preparing to start a rescue! We were all happy large stream passage disappearing off into the distance, but to share beers and tales of the day instead. it could only be traversed at stream level. Realising that this was as far as we would go in this cave, we took one last The next morning we were on the road again for the long drive to Sri Nakarind. Along the way we made a lunchtime stop to visit some of the ruins at Sukhothai, and stopped for a nice dinner at one of the floating restaurants alongside the "Bridge Over the River Kwai" in Kanchanaburi. We ended up staying the night at Erawan national park, and drove on to the Huai Khamin station of Sri Nakarind the next morning. This would be our base for the next 6 days. Our objective at Sri Nakarind was to continue the exploration and survey of Tham Ban Nam Mut (Sinking Water Village Cave). This cave had been surveyed to over 4 km by a British army team in 1992. They had turned around in going stream passage, and the topo map suggested that the upstream entrance of the cave was a further 4 km away. We drove out to Ban Nam Mut and located the resurgence spring, the buddha entrance, and a large collapse entrance to the cave. Graham and I entered the collapse entrance, doing a sporting 10 m down-climb to stream leveL The C02 concentrations were noticeably high but not bad. We spent a while finding a route through a 100 m boulder choke before it opened out into the main streamway again. That accomplished, we left the cave, ready for a big push with a full team the next day ... minus Dean though. He had been feeling weak and dizzy since the trip into Tham Chaoram, and was out of commission for several days. Things started off well the next day. We placed a long piece of bamboo at the entrance pitch so people had their choice of SAT or SBT (Single Bamboo Technique). The C02 concentrations seemed lower and we moved easily through the boulder choke. Soon we were splashing up the large stream passage, occasionally having to go through a
Wasan, Georg Kaufmann and Nopparat Naksathit in Tham Phra Sal Ngam (photo Terry Bolger) 24 Thailand 1997
look upstream and then moved calmly but quickly back told that a group of a dozen local people did the down to stream level, through the flowstone duckunder, and through-trip during the recent Songkran back to where the others were waiting. We spent 3 days in festival. The Tham Nok Nang-an Tham Ban Nam Mut with nothing to show for it. Curiously, through-trip is truly world class and is there was no mention of high C02 levels in the British a 'must see' for anyone in the area. report. If low C02 levels are found in the future, Th~e expedition had come to an opportunistic exploration and continued survey of Tham Ban end. Riding back to the station Nam Mut is likely to be a fruitful endeavour. under a star-filled Kanchanaburi Back at camp, Nop and Dean had a talk with Paiboon sky, Dean and I talked the whole Sewetmalanon, the park superintendent, and several way about the NEXT rangers, about other options. There was rumour of a coffin expedition! cave as well as a tiger cave (or were they one and the same?) in the upper Mae Khamin valley. A local guide was rounded up, who "knew" where the cave was. We drove to a high point on the rim of the upper valley, which had a beautiful view of the extensive forest below. There was some confusion and we split off in several different directions. As it turns out, the guide headed off in his own direction and was not seen again! We wandered around the base of a large limestone bluff but saw no caves. So we made our way down to the Huai Mae Khamin, and had an enjoyable walk 3 km downstream to the station. The station is situated along a beautiful series of tufa waterfalls and pools, and we had a METERS refreshing swim after the hot day in the forest. 0 300 That evening there was more talk, and a new guide with new directions to the coffin/tiger cave ,< was produced. In the morning we headed off for ... T~ am Phra Wang Daeng another try, but we stopped along the way to Th Salaeng Luang National Park visit Tham Ong Bah. This is a significant - - Phitsanulok Province, Thailand Surveyed April '97 & April '98 by: archaeological site from which coffins, bronze Thailand cave and Karst Group drums iron tools and pottery were removed by Royal Forest Dept. Thailand Canberra Speleological Society, Australia excavations in the 1970's. On the entrance slope, Drawn by Dean Smart (T.C.K. Group) Jul '98 Dean was scratching around and found a piece of BCRA grade 4b Length 12,154m Height Range -70m, +47m bronze .. .from one of the drums! Soon we were all Copyright - T.C.K.G., R.F.D., C.S.S., Jull998 digging enthusiastically in the talus of the entrance slope and found a number of pieces of bronze, along with some iron tools and pieces of pottery. We surmised that these artefacts were dropped while being removed during the earlier excavations. After lunch, a long hot walk down the Huai Mae Khamin and up a side stream led us to ... the tiger cave? ... the coffin cave? No, only a small shelter cave in a cliff face. The disappointment on our faces was visible. One of the rangers offered to lead us to a cave he knew of a few kilometers further on. Dean and I were the only takers, the rest opting for a refreshing swim and a cold beer back at the station. Sure enough, he led us to a small but interesting cave high on a hillside. It had two entrances and about 200 m of narrow, winding passage. It also had black marks on the walls that looked like survey stations. Dean reckoned that it was one of the caves in the area surveyed by an European geologist some years before. Although there was no lack of trying, we had spent five days at Sri Nakarind and had nothing in our survey books ... quite different from our first four days at Thung Salaeng Luang! We decided to cut our losses and spend the final day taking a tourist trip through Tham Nok Nang-an (Swallow Cave), about a two hour drive away in the Lam Khlong Ngu area of the 1996 expedition. This is a through-trip where the Lam Khlong Ngu, a sizable river, flows underground for the better part of 4 km, with a number of karst windows along the way. We had a fantastic day swimming, walking and scrambling through this amazing cave, and emerged from the final karst window feeling exhilarated. Above the karst window at the take-out point a new ranger station was being built, and we enjoyed meeting many of our ranger friends from the 1996 expedition. The tourist potential of this cave is becoming realised. We were