, A taste of history

astronomy is a wonder- ful way to get to know Gplaces of high cultural value. Traditions handed down through the generations, the climate and the fertility of the soil, together with products harvested from the sea have shaped the tasty cuisine that can be enjoyed today in Gra- nada province. Native products, recognised with designations of origin, spe- cifi c designations of quality and protected geographical recog- nition are internationally acclaimed. Every corner of the province has adapted to its own local re- sources to create over the centuries a host of traditional recipes, 3 which vary greatly according to the local environment: moun- tain, countryside or coast, and also according to the season. This guide aims to show visitors the province’s culinary excel- lence through its history, designations of origin and the area’s town and villages, including a select collection of recipes that are typical of the gastronomy of Granada province.

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 3 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 GastronomíaGastronomy en la Provinciain Granada de ProvinceGranada Granada, unaA taste historia of history con sabor

From the eastern Mediterranean The Roman table Throughout antiquity Around 212 BC, during the the Mare Nostrum Third Punic War, the Roman was the link between troops arrived in the region and the peoples who set- soon noticed all the riches to be tled on its shores: the found here, fi t to be exploited Phoenicians, Greeks, there. The coast was no excep- Romans.... tion, and thanks to them he best The warm waters garum came to be made with of the Mediterranean tuna caught off the shore. were the scene of an With the arrival of the Romans, exchange of cultures the gastronomy of Granada be- from Africa to Europe, came enriched and soon became popular among local palates. The pros- from the garden of perous town of Iliberis, including its and Albaicín quarters, began to enjoy Eden to the world’s end, Finis terrae. a richer cuisine based on cheeses and vegetables. Bread and wine was The Phoenicians arrived on the Granada coast in the twelfth century consumed in abundance and fi sh was a regular part of the diet. Garum to trade with Tartesos, bringing with them the fi sh-salting techniques that was a sauce made from mixing fi sh guts with wine, vinegar, pepper, olive had originated in Mesopotamia and Egypt. The fi sh was cut into thin fi l- oil or water, and it was used to marinate dishes. lets into which diagonal incisions were made and fi lled with salt. The fi sh Roma also brought in new eating habits, as it was under their rule was then sun-dried and stored in terracotta storage vessels. that the practice of eating three meals a day became standardised, with 4 Later, when the Greeks arrived on the shores, they brought olive trees breakfast (at 7–9 a.m.), a light lunch around noon, and the main meal at 5 with them and the use of olive oil, and the gastronomy of the south the end of the working day. began to take on its characteristic fl avour. Huge meals of roast goat and lamb, accompanied by vast dishes of fruit such as pomegranates, cherries, grapes and fi gs adorned the tables of the rich traders. Succulent meals The Muslim and Jewish infl uence such as the one described by Plato in The Banquet. In the early eighth century the landed on the shores of Granada. The Greeks, carrying on from where the Phoenicians left off, were They soon noticed the lack of resources and poor local cuisine, as cereals. the fi rst to market the Greek garo at fi sh-salting factories, later to be meat and wine were the basis of the local diet and hardly any fruit was adopted by the Romans as garum, while the mackerel came to form part eaten. of those ancient cultures. Under the Moors vegetables came to the fore, sometimes cooked as purées (particularly peas and beans) or used in salads (lettuce, water- cress and other wild-growing plants) which they seasoned and dressed with olive oil. By this time olives had started to be macerated in brine, adding spices, and eaten as a pre-meal snack. Pulses — chickpeas, beans, soya and lentils — were also considered to be highly nutritious. Many different types of food came to form part of people’s diet in al- Andalus, many brought from the East, including watermelons from Persia and Yemen, melons from Jorasán in Iran, and pome- granates from Syria (the fruit that gave the prov- ince its modern name. As Ibn al-Awwán said in his seventh-century book on farming, “Nurture the pomegranate; eat its fruit for it removes all rancour and envy”.

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 44-5-5 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 Gastronomy in Granada Province Granada, A taste of history

The social currents fl owing 1492: Cuisine meets religion both ways in the Mediterranean brought many spices from China, After the surrender of Granada, — the former Al-Andalus — enhancing the fl avour of Al-An- underwent major changes, some of them quite violent, and the local cuisine dalus cuisine and enriching it like never before. It even came to and religious infl uence did not escape this process. The most striking culi- surpass Persian and Byzantine cui- nary confl ict was over pork and lamb products. sine. The most commonly eaten In medieval Granada the fusion of sometimes opposite cultures and cus- types of meat were kid goa, lamb, toms managed to coexist alongside culinary and religious matters. During rabbit and beef. Under Islam’s Lent, the Christians had to forgo eating meat. At Yom Kippur (the Jewish dietary laws, pork products and alcohol were forbidden. Day of Atonement) fermented products were forbidden. The Jewish Sab- bath and Passover were the main festivities. Finally, to the Muslims’ existing The many Moorish words that have come down to us include prohibition of alcohol and pork we must add the dietary restrictions im- xarab (in modern Spanish, jarabe, or syrup), a cocktail of fruit, fl owers, spices posed during the month of Ramadan. and herbs, and sherbet, where the essences of fl owers and fruit were mixed Little by little the confl icting cuisines came to coexist peacefully, mixing with cold water or ice and served to counter the heat of summer. The and adapting. Many dishes word and its meaning are better known to us today as “sorbet”. To have still prepared today date the necessary ice available shafts were dug to a depth of 10–20 metres and fi lled with snow brought down from Sulayr (), which would back to this era, when last at least until July and, in the deepest shafts, even the whole year round. Muslims, Sephardic Jews Ziryab — a poet and musician from the court of Baghdad — was the per- and Christians merged son who established the art of fi ne eating in Al-Andalus as we know it today: their culinary traditions in 6 soup and broths to start, followed by cold cuts, then fi sh and meat courses and some cases and left them 7 fi nally dessert. He even introduced the use of the spoon and drinking goblets. intact in others, gradually Hewish cuisine continued side by side with Moorish dishes and made increasing their knowledge many contributions to the local cuisine. Some meat recipes such as albóndi- until the richness of to- gas (meatballs) are typical of Sephardic cuisine. Foodstuffs were always day’s cuisine was eventu- overridden by religious principles and some were even prepared in advance ally arrived at. to be consumed on the shabat (when cooking, considered to be work, was forbidden).

New fl avours from the Americas

Coinciding almost exactly with the fall of Moorish Granada, Christo- chid). All of these ingredients are virtually indispensible ingredients in pher Columbus landed in the Americas in his search for the shortest the modern Granada kitchen, but they were all completely unknown route to the spices of the Indies. His voyages and those of later ex- before that time. Some, such as potatoes, were well received by con- plorers brought products that were previously unknown in medieval vents and monasteries, although the rich spurned them. Others, such Europe and were gradually assimilated, spreading from and Por- as green and red peppers, adapted well to the local climate and their tugal to the rest of the world. This culinary exchange began from the cultivation and use spread quickly. moment the Spanish fi rst arrived on American shores. New fl avours, New types of fruit included cherimoyas, avocadoes, papayas and new spices and new ways of seasoning were applied to the newly mangoes, which thanks to the subtropical microclimate on Granada’s discovered foods: cocoa, beans, corn, potatoes, turkey, green and red coast came to be included in the local gastronomy to add an exotic peppers, pineapples, tomatoes and vanilla (the pod of a tropical or- touch.

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 66-7-7 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 Gastronomy in Granada Province Mediterranean diet Healthier eating for a longer life

Already in Moorish times, diet was considered as impor- tant for staying healthy and recuperating from illness. Al- Arbuli’s Treatise on Foodstuffs analysed the curative prop- erties of foods, and it seems that the task was worthwhile, since the Spanish Moors were well known for their physical strength and longevity. The people of Granada, the direct heirs of that philosophy of life, have always kept to a kind of social interaction that has become entrenched among the peo- balanced, healthy diet that has ple of Granada over the centuries to become part of their natural way proved over time to be the of life. best recipe for living longer To the healthy diet with natural products we must also add other tradi- and growing old in comfort. The Mediterranean Diet, which is so strong tions, such as the one found throughout the Alpujarra and particularly in the region, has recently been included as part of UNESCO’s non-ma- in the town of Lanjarón. The climate, contact with nature, the stress-free terial world heritage, in recognition of the dietary habits and traditions 8 leisurely pace and, above all, the local water have led the World Health 9 found in the Mediterranean Basin. Olive oil, fresh fruit and vegetables, Organisation to recognise it as one of the towns with the longest-living cereals and moderate consumption of meat, fi sh and dairy products are population in the world. Many of the local people live to an age of 90 the best recipe for a longer, healthier life. or more. This recognition received extensive media coverage in Spain, The American Neurology Association recently confi rmed the benefi ts Germany, the UK, France and even South Korea, causing people to visit of this diet for our memory and ability to think, as well as to prevent this pretty town in the mountains, a synonym for life, health and eternal strokes. In 2008 the British Medical Journal recognised the benefi ts of youth. this diet to protect against cancer, Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s diseases, The town’s mountain-water spring, the water’s extreme purity and and heart disease. special characteristics (low mineralisation, ideal for low-sodium diets) The Mediterranean diet — from the Greek diaita (lifestyle) — is also a make it particularly suitable for drinking and preparing baby food. The marketing of “Aguas de Lanjarón” has resulted in wide recognition of its quality and current position as a market leader.

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 88-9-9 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 Gastronomy in Granada Province Recognised quality

Granada province now has various products of exceptional quality, certi- After decades of research and trials it is now a benchmark for organic fi ed under several different designations of origin and quality (D.O.). fi sh farming, producing beluga caviar that is among the world’s most highly rated. Montes de Granada olive oil D.O. The fi rst references to Huétor Tájar asparagus specifi c designation of quality this fruity, slightly bitter ex- Originally from the tra virgin olive oil date back riverbank vegetation of to the sixteenth century. It the river Genil, where is made from olives grown it grew wild, the seeds in the sub-Baetic moun- have been collected and tains of Granada. grown in Granada’s fertile fl ood plain since the early The extreme continen- twentieth century. tal Mediterranean climate The extreme continen- generally produces olive tal Mediterranean climate oil that is highly aromatic, is ideal for growing this slightly bitter and contain- asparagus variety (espár- rago triguero). Its white ing high levels of oleic acid, colour in the ground contributing high nutrition- turns green when it is al value to the Mediterra- emerges and its chloro- nean diet. phyll function occurs.

Poniente de 10 Granada olive oil cherimoya D.O. 11 D.O. Originally from the Thanks to the ef- Americas, the cherimoya fects of the local soon settled into its new environment, with home in the subtropical excellent Mediter- climate of the Granada ranean conditions coast. for olive-growing, the western is part This fruit is highly valued of western Gra- for its exotic aroma and nada province has sweetness. Although usu- been producing ally eaten fresh, it can also its liquid gold since be enjoyed as a sorbet. the fi fth and sixth Thanks to its high fi bre centuries. content it is particularly suitable to aid the diges- This category of extra virgin olive oil has the aromas and fl avours of tion. fresh or ripe fruit, and may be either bitter and tangy or sweet depend- ing on when the olives are harvested. Segura lamb Reared in the Segura and La Sagra moun- Riofrío organic tains, where the special caviar. ecosystem is ideal for The extreme spring lamb, giving the purity of the wa- meat special charac- teristics that mark its ters of Riofrío led quality. two businessmen The meat is tender, from the north to pink and juicy, of very choose the site to high quality and much set up a fi sh farm appreciated for its ab- in 1958. sence of grassiness.

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 110-110-11 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 Gastronomy in Granada Province Recognised quality Trevélez ham specifi c D.O. bread. This ham is cured in Following methods the highest village in passed down through Spain, at an altitude of the centuries, the 1,476 metres at the wood-fuelled ovens of feet of Mulhacén peak. Alfacar still use refrac- The north winds from tory bricks on which the mountains create the dough is laid, giv- the special microcli- ing it its special, slightly mate that is needed for smoked aroma. This drying and maturing the succulent artisan bread ham. This, together with is distributed through- its low salt levels, result out much of the Gra- it a sweet ham that is a nada metropolitan area. delight for the palate. shrimps. Costa Tropical mangoes and avocadoes. A native species on the Granada coast, where they lives in burrows excavated in the mud. Usually boiled or grilled on 12 a bed of salt to fi l- 13 ter their fl avour. The delicious meat and small catches have made them a highly prized delicacy at lo- cal restaurants. After the cherimoya, mangoes and avocadoes are the most common- ly grown quality fruit on the coast, with over 10,000 hectares. Granada quality wine D.O. Besides the mild microclimate with mild temperatures and low rainfall, the quality comes from the optimal state of ripening and development In recent decades the winemakers Granada province have made a great of the fruit when it is picked. effort to improve the excellence of local wines. They have adapted new winemaking techniques and implemented fi ne grape varieties, taking ex- Granada honey D.O: tra care of the vines planted in the vine- With its abundance of aromatic yards. plants, valleys and mountains, the area is a paradise for an estimated The result has been 40,000 beehives. The bees’ tireless a huge leap in the quality of Granada’s pollination not only results in a deli- wines. cious-tasting honey, but it also helps to maintain biodiversity. Fresh whites, tasty reds of great com- Different types of honey are avail- plexity and elegantly able depending on the fl owers polli- acidic sparkling wines nated: cantatueso (lavender), orange cover a wide variety blossom, avocado, rosemary, thyme, of needs to accom- mil fl ores (1000 fl owers), sierra pany any kind of dish. (mountain) and chestnut.

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 112-132-13 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 Gastronomy in Granada Province Tasting Granada

Multicultural cuisine Strolling through the city’s streets Granada is a lucky city. For many Of all the tips about things to do and centuries it has been the direct see in Granada that visitors to the city of heir not only of a huge architec- the Alhambra may be given, one of the tural heritage but also a gastro- most highly recommended is simply to nomic one. Thanks to the lack of stroll through the old parts of the city and take in its living, unrepeatable history be- religious prejudice in the past, we fore enjoying a drink in one of the many can now garden produce, includ- bars, settling down for a fi ne meal ing beans, in combination with in a restaurant, relaxing in a tea house or pork products, such as ham, re- trying the delicious local confectionery. sulting in the characteristic recipe habas fritas con jamón (fried beans with ham). The culinary tradition passed down was combined in the fi nal third of the twentieth century with a wide variety of other world cuisines — not only from the rest of Europe but also from Morocco, Lebanon and places even farther to the east. The latest to travel this silk route has been Japa- nese cuisine, which has come to be ever more widely appreciated. 14 Now, in the twenty-fi rst century, Spain enjoys a position as world leader 15 when it comes to food. Auteur cuisine attempts to give a real sense to the dishes by using local ingredients combined with exquisite technique, considerable research and continuous evolution. Granada is no stranger to this trend and the city’s leading restaurants offer many of these new fl avours without forgetting the local traditions, with classic recipes passed down through the generations.

Tea houses Sweets from convents Arabic tea houses are hugely popular in Granada — yet another facet Almost all the convents in the city and its province make their own of the cultural heritage left by the Moors. The tea houses’ exotic deco- confectionery, which the nuns sell to the public, keen to buy their tradi- ration creates a relaxing atmosphere in which time has stood still, ideal tionally made products. There are as many specialities as there are con- for conversation and communication. vents and different religious orders, but some of the most popular are Many different kinds of tea (Moroccan, Saharawi, Libyan, Turkish, Iraqi, huevos moles from San Antón convent, almond cakes from Las Tomasas, Iranian…) are served by expert staff in elegant teapots. Other prod- mojicones (cupcakes) and marzipan from La Encarnación, hojarascas ucts from the cultures of the Ara- from Isabel la Real, cocas yemadas from San Bernardo del Císter, huesos bic world, India and the Middle de santo from Santa Catalina de Zafra, mantecados from La Magdalena, East , sweets, crepes, coffee and and almíbares from the convent of Las Comendadoras de Santiago and even hookahs are also much in San Jerónimo monastery. demand in these establishments. Tea shops can be found dot- ted all over the city, but many of them are concentrated in and around Calle Calderería Nueva, which runs up from Calle Elvira to the Albaicín.

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Tapas routes Going out for tapas is one of From there it’s just the most popular local customs. a fi ve-minute walk to Granada’s large student popula- Plaza Nueva, follow- tion, including many from abroad, ing the river along have rejuvenated the city’s night the Carrera del Dar- life. A caña (small glass) of locally ro, which eventually brewed “Alhambra” beer or a opens onto the Paseo glass of wine entitles you to free de los Tristes. Here, tapas (as a sample of the estab- not only can you enjoy lishment’s fare), although there is excellent tapas at the no choice: it’s free so you accept cluster of bar terraces what you’re offered! You can be in the square, but you served anything from cheese, can also admire the cold cults or cured ham to tra- Alhambra looming di- ditional hot dishes, such as rectly above. Then, a walk or short bus ride up the hill will take you to con tropezones, tripe, beans with the Albaicín, with its labyrinth of narrow streets and many very good bars ham, papas a lo pobre (potatoes in thick slices fried slowly with green and restaurants. peppers), etc. The typical local omelette — tortilla Sacromonte — is also closely linked to Granada’s tapas traditions. It was originally served to dignitaries visiting Sacrom- 16 onte Abbey as part of the patron saint’s feast day 17 celebrations. Besides the potatoes and eggs of the standard Spanish omelette, it is made with lamb’s brains and sweetbreads, red peppers, peas, chorizo and cured ham. Good places for tapas can be found all over the city and practically all the towns and villages of the province. In the city, though, there are certain areas where the density and quality of the tapas bars is particularly high. You could begin a tapas route in the Campo del Príncipe in the Realejo, before moving on to the area around the cathedral — Plaza de la Romanilla and Plaza de la Pescadería are two good spots to stop for a drink and a bite to eat. Nearby, running off the town hall square, Calle Navas and its side streets are also full of tapas bars.

Tapas area Restaurant area

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 116-176-17 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 Gastronomy in Granada Province Produce of the Vega, Granada’s surroundings

Inherited infrastructures Granada’s pantry We have already mentioned The Vega cannot be the poor state of the country- understood without the side and little exploitation of river Genil and its tributar- its resources before the eighth ies, which are responsible century. We also saw how the for the fertile alluvial soils. rapid process of reform soon There is also considerable equipped the city with many tree cover in this area, water-related resources, includ- particularly poplar groves. ing irrigation channels, wells and Since the Middle Ages canals. the Vega has been Gra- Today, thanks to same these in- nada’s pantry, supplying frastructures, the waters of the the capital and many other settlements with vegetables and pulses. Tradi- wide, green fl ood plain of the tional recipes in the area include salads made with white beans, leeks and river Genil — the Vega — are puréed onion, together with chickpea and wheat , asparagus, spicy led along these channels that were built by the Moors. This is the fi rst porridge, olla de San Antón and stuffed peppers. image that the visitor sees when approaching the city. A scene marked Together with the coast, this was one of the parts of present-day An- by the snow-capped peaks of Sierra Nevada, which is the same view that dalusia where the Moors introduced -cane crops in the eighth cen- 18 was enjoyed by the farmers and carters who crossed the city walls in tury, and it was used here long before it reached the rest of Europe. 19 the Middle Ages heading for the zoco (market) to trade with their foods Combined with honey, which had been used for centuries to sweeten and produce. main dishes and desserts, it was incorporated into the cuisine that the Thanks to these infrastructures that have been handed down, many of Christians inherited via the Mozarabs and Mudejars. the villages in the Vega of Granada still live from this fertile land, which is crisscrossed by a host of narrow straight lines: hundreds of kilometres Alfacar bread of channels that irrigate the vegetable plots. Some of the old almunias or alquerías where these farm workers lived have survived to this day. Traditionally, one of the housewife’s daily tasks was to make the dough for the day’s bread, which, once kneaded, was then identifi ed with the family’s mark and covered with a cloth to settle before baking.

Alfacar, where there were many fl our mills, maintains this tradition and its artisan’s bread is of very high quality, making the village famous for supplying bread to much of the Granada metropolitan area.

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 118-198-19 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 Gastronomy in Granada Province Produce of the Vega, Granada’s surroundings Healthy garden produce With honey or sugar

In this area there are a host of sie, although still not to the same traditional recipes for stews, sal- extent as honey. ads made with garden produce Throughout the Vega you can and desserts. enjoy such delicacies as roscos, huevos moles, fl ores en dulce, tor- The star products are the area’s rijas, roscos, pestiños and leche frita, tender, juicy beans, which are used especially in Churriana, or custard- in a great many dishes, including fi lled tirabuzones and fl ores (fried frying them in virgin olive oil with dough shaped like a fl ower and cured ham. In they are dusted with sugar), such as those cooked in omelettes, while else- found in Atarfe. where, such as in Churriana de la Desserts made with sugar and Vega they are dried and used as honey have always been very pulses. The local green asparagus popular, as have sponge cakes is also of very high quality and is with currants, hojuelas fritas or almíbares. Many of these recipes used for sopa de maimones (simi- have been handed down through lar to garlic soup but with no pa- the millennia, but it was not prika) in . To this we must grette dressing) , (made until sugar cane arrived in the also add other key elements of in Granada with bean fl our), leek thirteenth century that desserts the Granada recipe book, such and white-bean salads, etc. began to be made with sugar cane for the aristocracy and bourgeoi- 20 21 Piononos from Santa Fe

The pionono is a tiny cake made of a thin layer of rolled sponge fi lled with confectioner’s cream, forming a cylinder that is then drizzled with syrup and crow- ned with caramelised cream. Although its origins are uncertain, it is be- as wild mushrooms, aubergines, Meanwhile, meat lovers can lieved to date back to the Moorish period because of the ingredients stuffed artichokes in Armilla and enjoy a wide variety of dishes used, which include cinnamon. The most traditional piononos can be papas a lo pobre with fried eggs which have in common their found at the “Casa Isla”, although it is said that in the mid-nineteenth and green peppers. preparation al ajillo (in a garlic century the three widowed sisters who ran “La Blanquita” confectio- Salads and cold soups are also sauce) and the varied condi- nery shop salvaged the original recipe, shaped it like a tiered papal local specialities, and are particu- ments used to cook kid goat, crown and gave it its current name: a corruption of Pío Noveno (Pius larly appropriate for the pleas- rabbit, chicken and hare. Some IX). ant temperatures of this corner examples include pork ribs with The making of piononos is closely linked to the Santa Fe to the extent fi eld mushrooms, lamb cutlets, of Andalusia. There are options that it has become part of the town’s popular identity. for all tastes: , pipirrana granadinas de vaca (similar to a (fi nely chopped tomato, onion Salisbury steak), beef roulade or Today, many local people work as pionono makers, keeping the exact and green pepper with a vinai- rice with rabbit. recipe a closely guarded secret.

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Conquering the slopes Resettlement and gastronomic enrichment

La Alpujarra es una pintoresca Local culinary customs have been preserved intact thanks to the special zoThe Alpujarra is a picturesque geographical features of this area, with its farming economy, low tempera- area that runs across the south- tures and diffi cult access. Two major Berber tribes had a great infl uence facing slopes of Sierra Nevada, on the cuisine of the Alpujarra: the Sinhaya and the Zanata, although it separated from the Mediterra- was a combination of culinary traditions that gave rise to such recipes nean by the Contraviesa moun- as Sephardi/Mudejar celery albóndigas, Mozarab/Sephardic stuffed capon, tains. lamb with spinach or Mudejar lamb or kid goat with almonds. Its quaint whitewashed villages After the expulsion of the (the Muslims remaining after the are built staggered on terraces Christians seized power), many parts of the area were practically de- on the steep hillsides, surroun- serted and so they were resettled with people from Castile, Navarre ded by countryside that is ideal and La Mancha. With their arrival the local cuisine underwent a signifi cant for rural tourism. The local cui- changes, largely because of the new raw materials used to cook with. sine has a personality all its own, The new arrivals were more familiar with growing non-irrigated crops with many striking features and than with garden pro- some deservedly famous pro- duce, so they continued ducts. to work in the original Andalusians’ cereal This paradise has been much appreciated since ancient times, but its pe- fi elds. Vegetables and riod of splendour was the Moorish era. The Moors soon found technical spices continued to play 22 solutions to the problems posed by such rugged terrain, creating terraced a role in dishes 23 plots and beds for cereals, olive trees, fruit and almond trees, taming the that became increasing- wild waters of the snow melt with networks of irrigation channels. The ly elaborate over time. slopes had been conquered and the degradation of the soil from runoff The resettlement also solved once and for all. marked the arrival of It was the Moors who discovered the Lecrín Valley, a wonderful Eden of what would become orange and lemon groves on the slopes running down from the city to the undoubted star fea- the sea. Several Moorish watermills can still be seen in this area, originally ture of the cuisine of used to grind wheat. the Alpujarra: pork. The fi rst Andalusians began to make some of the dishes that centuries Its success can be attributed not only to the advantages of sty-rearing later would come to be identifi ed with this area: the very popular migas but also to the higher amount of calories that it provided to fuel a hard and , gurullos (wheat dough, water and saffron) served with par- day’s work in the fi elds. The traditional matanza (annua pig-slaughter festi- tridge or hare, tarbinas (gachas with milk) and a wide range of salads and val) products would later either be eaten alone: lomos en orza (marinated dishes seasoned with aromatic herbs such as thyme and fennel. pork loin fried and conserved in clay pots), cold cuts, marinated pork, etc., or used as ingredients in hearty stews and dishes, including olla de San Antón (white beans, dried beans, pork spine, pig’s tail, cheeks, ears and trotters, mature ham bone, blood sausage, potatoes, fennel, rice and salt), plato alpujarreño (fried eggs with papas a lo pobre, green peppers, blood sau- sage, chorizo and ham) and olla gitana (chickpeas with beans, marrow, bread and almonds).

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 222-232-23 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 Gastronomy in Granada Province Moorish heritage in the Alpujarra and Lecrín Valley

Local cooking, the sum of diff erent traditions Moorish delights The Alpujarra recipe book is large and varied: garlic soup with ham in The area has a strong Lanjarón; gachas pimentonas in ; trout with ham in Soportújar; tradition of assimilating chestnut stew in ; rabbit casserole in Busquístar; gachas de ajo confectionery recipes quemao in Mecina Bombarón; perdiz in escabeche in Valor; and spicy rab- from the past, either bit in . Another typical local dish is choto capilurrio (kid-goat stew maintaining them in with white wine) and fennel stew. their original form or In Capileira a Moorish oven is still used to make wonderful country adapting them into new bread, ideal for dipping and to accompany the traditional plato alpujar- creations. Nigüelas is an reño described above. example of this, with its The farmers used to eat migas con engañifa very early before setting roscos, pestiños and leche out to work. To give the dish some more consistency it could be served frita. Almonds are always with salads, salt cod, fi sh, chocolate, fried peppers, longaniza sausage and present, as are eggs, and blood sausage, all of which they are combined with was known as engañifa. fl our, sugar and honey. Game has always been These and other ingredi- present in the local diet, as ents (fruit and nuts) are an ingredient in such dishes as the typical arroz liberal 24 rice dish in Ugíjar, made with used to make deli- 25 partridge, rabbit, hare, thrush cious desserts, with and woodpigeon. each village having one it is particularly identifi ed with: cua- jados in (al- Trevélez ham monds beaten with eggs and sugar and The specifi c designation of quality recognises baked), fi g bread in the excellence of Trevélez ham, and a number of stringent requirements must be met. Turón, borrachillos (a latticed dough The purely manual salting and curing process made with wheat, used in the area is particularly noteworthy. Thanks sugar, olive oil, red to the altitude and mountain air from the peaks of Sierra Nevada, the ham is cured in a special micro- wine, dry anis, anise, climate, resulting in an exquisite ham. The villages lemon, cinnamon and baking powder; once fried they are sprinkled with included under this designation, besides Trevélez a mixture of sugar and itself, are , Busquístar, cinnamon) and torta de Pórtugos, La Tahá, Bubión, Ca- lata in Pampaneira (made pileira and Bérchules. with eggs, fl our, lemon zest Back in 1862 a national and butter, and sprinkled competition of food products with icing sugar), as well was held and the winner was as chocolate buñuelos in Trevélez ham, after which Lanjarón, peñascos in Bér- Queen Isabel II issued the vil- chules and bizcochada and lage with a warrant to author- sweet pumpkin in Cádiar, ise the stamping of the hams Ugíjar and Válor. with the royal seal.

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 224-254-25 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 Gastronomy in Granada Province Inland cuisine The High Plain: Baza and Huéscar districts

The eastern border Fusión culinaria arábigo-cristiana On the north-eastern Los municipios si- edge of Granada province is tuados más al norte, known as the High Plain of como Puebla de Don the Baza and Huéscar dis- Fadrique, Huéscar, tricts, bordering with Jaén to , Gale ra, Castilléjar the north and Almería to the y , south. fueron los que notaron This is an area with cold mayores cambios en su winters that often bring gastronomía infl uen- snow on high ground and ciados por la impronta sometimes over the whole culinaria de levantinos, area. As expected, the local navarros, castellanos cuisine refl ects the area’s cli- manchegos y aragone- mate, with lot of high-calorie dishes. ses. The past and present go hand in hand in such dishes as couscous with A los productos bási- olla de segaores (a stew made with chickpeas, potatoes, mature bone, cos como las legumbres, hortalizas y cereales se le sumaron carnes como ham bone, bacon fat, blood sausage and half a chicken) and fried peppers la del cerdo (prohibida por el Islam), el conejo, el pollo de corral y el with salads to accompany the delicious local cold cuts and wines. cordero. 26 27 Food to beat the cold

The cuisine of Granada’s High Plain always features extra virgin olive oil in and the best way the preparation of its recipes: remojón de San Antón (made with potatoes, to beat the cold. hard-boiled eggs, shredded salt cod, black olives, spring onion, dried red pep- It is customary in pers, garlic cloves, olive oil and salt), migas de matanza, ajo de aserradores, a the districts of the typical dish in (made with bread, chorizo, shredded High Plain to mari- salt cod, dried red peppers, paprika, garlic, tomato and olive oil) partridge in nate some parts escabèche, kid goat with garlic, paprika and potatoes, catchfl y omelette, fried of the pig (nearly marrow, and Huéscar stew. always the loin and Homemade cold ribs) to be available cuts, made tradition- for the rest of the ally immediately after year. These portion the pig is slaughtered are saved in con- at the matanza, are tainers known as always available. Chor- orzas, and this clay izo, lomo embuchado, pot has given its name to several dishes, such as lomo en orza, which is usually morcón, salchichón, served with chips or salad. blood sausage, and Other notable recipes include the typical gachas tortas (a rabbit and pork relleno (made with stew cooked with vegetables), gurupina (salt cod with potatoes), gurullos lean pork, salted with perdiz or hare in Baza; migas con remojón, maimones (button and fi eld bacon, dried pork mushrooms cooked with potatoes, onion, garlic, paprika, tomato, olive oil and shoulder, chicken, sometimes even shredded salt cod), noodles with hare or partridge, bollos turkey, rabbit, saffron, with rabbit, or the various dishes made with trout in , or vianda (papas pepper, cloves, cin- a lo pobre with peppers, fatty bacon and lean meat, mixed with a dough of namon, breadcrumbs, fl our, olive oil and salt), a recipe that was brought down to Puebla de Don salt, plenty of eggs, lemon juice and garlic) are delicious titbits for the palate Fadrique by colonists from Navarre.

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 226-276-27 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 Gastronomy in Granada Province Inland cuisine The High Plain: Baza and Huéscar districts

Traditional preserves Trout from the river Castril In the past, the need to keep food The High Plain area is a all the year round led to the habit land of contrasts, which of preserving surplus foods that together with its striking were not eaten immediately after semi-desert landscapes being harvested. This custom lasted also features a wealth of through the centuries and today is water resources. a common practice in many local Rivers and large reser- villages, where pulses, vegetables voirs, such as those at San and some fruit (particularly peach- Clemente, Portillo and es) are often preserved. Negratín, make this area an anglers’ paradise. In the cold waters of the river Segura lamb Castril, the trout rules, and this fi sh has come to be used in many different local dishes over time. The star product of the gastronomy of the High Plain is without doubt lamb from Segura (which hopes to obtain Protected Geographical Rec- ognition), a native breed of sheep that has adapted perfectly to the tough conditions of its habitat (extreme climate, drought, little available pasture). Liqueurs and desserts The meat, which is of very high quality, is cooked in many different ways, 28 including served char-grilled, en lata (roast, served with potatoes, tomato, To accompany the deli- 29 garlic and bay leaf), fried, in sauce, or with garlic mayonnaise. cious sweet fl avours of tra- ditional confection, nothing The main differentiating characteristics that make Segura lamb unique is better than a traditional are its pink, juicy, tender meat, without the smell or somewhat greasy liqueur: mistela, chimichu- fl avour that is typical of lamb from many other parts of Spain. The fl avour rri (wine must with coffee is enhanced by the streaks of fat that pervade the muscle as a result of beans and sugar), coffee both genetic factors and environmental conditions. liqueur, or churrimpampli (a blend of orujo de aguar- There are about 1,500 farms with 265,000 head of sheep in the Gra- diente — a schnapps-type nada area. spirit — with quince jui- ce, orange zest and coffee beans). Pastries, tortas de aceite, tortas de manteca and tortas de mosto, an- gel-hair pies or roscos de vino, as well as torrijas, chocolate croquettes, bienmesabe (made with egg, almonds, sugar and grated lemon zest) or Christmas sweets… these are just a few examples. Other delicious traditional home- made desserts in the High Plain in- clude rice pudding, custard, leche frita and huevos a la nieve (made with eggs, fresh milk, evaporated milk, vanilla, cinnamon and sugar).

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 228-298-29 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 Gastronomy in Granada Province Costa Tropical

Roman legacy Fish-salting techniques were fi rst introduced into Granada’s coastal are- was exported from as by the Punic Phoenician civilisation and later developed by the Romans. Sexi to far-fl ung The fi sh had to be perfectly preserved to be transported all over Spain parts of the empire and beyond and keep long enough to be used at times of year when it to feed the Roman was unavailable fresh. legions. The remains At the fi sh-salting factory in Sexi (the original name of ) one of of that factory can the most commonly used sauces throughout the Roman empire was made: still be seen in the garum, a paste made with fi sh guts in brine and vinegar, dried in the sun. It Majuelo park.

From “salamandroña soup” to seafood

The love of vegetables, olive oil, fruit such as pomegranates, fi gs and Sardine brochettes cherries, spices and condiments... the best example of this mixture can be seen in the popular salamandroña soup (sardines, marrow, green On summer nights on the peppers, roasted red peppers, onion, tomato, black pepper, salt, garlic Costa Tropical, a common sight and cumin). is the glow of the open fi res 30 As is logical for a coastal area, the local cuisine on the Costa Tropi- where sardine brochettes are 31 cal owes a lot to the wide range of fresh seafood provided by the roasting over the wood, a lo- Mediterranean for the fi shing peoples who have settled there over cal speciality that requires con- siderable expertise to prepare the centuries. At the busy fi sh markets, you can fi nd everything from well. hake, grouper, jewfi sh, white sea bream, gilthead sea bream and red The whole sardines are sea bream to codling, gurnard, conger eels, scorpion fi sh, moray and sea bream and other rock fi sh speared with shards of cane skate, the latter being used in recipes such as Motril’s skate stew or are served in the restaurants beneath the spine, so that the skate with lemon in Salobreña. on the coast, as well as deli- fl esh does not fall off, and the With such a wealth of raw materials it is hardly surprising for visitors cious shrimps, white prawns and brochettes are then placed by to fi nd that they can enjoy such delicious dishes as seafood paella, veg- crayfi sh either quickly grilled or the embers so that they roast gradually. The same method is etable soups with white fi sh, pickled blue fi sh, tuna encebollao, stews boiled, and piedras (Venus ver- used to cook other large fi sh of papas con cazón, moragas de sardinas (sardines cooked slowly with rucosa, a type of clam that is chopped garlic, wine and lemon juice) espichás (dried anchovies fried (sea bass, gilthead, sea bream) eaten raw). and octopus. with garlic and eggs), dried octopus served with cabbage salad, fi sh On Motril’s Vega the main casseroles, sardinas a la teja in Motril (sardines baked on olive oil crops are cherry tomatoes, cu- with peppers, onion cumber, peppers, while others and tomato and sea- are grown in greenhouses (po- soned with vinegar, tatoes, beans, peppers, tomatoes, oregano, salt and etc.), as well as non-irrigated pepper) or migas crops (cereals and almonds). On with sun-dried ancho- the coast you can enjoy many vies, a dish made in delicious dishes made with suc- . culent vegetables, such as migas Baked or baked in with melon or marrow with Al- salt, gilthead bream, muñécar longaniza sausage. sea bass, white and

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 330-310-31 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 Gastronomy in Granada Province From sugar cane to tropical fruit

Cherimoya, mangoes and avocadoes

After the discovery of the All over the coast and also inland, New World, the fi rst Andalu- chefs let loose their imagination to sian explorers brought home come up with such unusual recipes as not only such foodstuffs as po- baked chicken with avocado leaves, re- tatoes, peppers and tomatoes freshing mango salad with king prawns, (staples of local moist rice dish- mango chutney, avocado salad with es and seafood stews) but also oregano vinaigrette, avocado with sal- the fi rst tropical fruit species. morejo, salt cod with avocado, persim- The fi rst references to the in- mon salad, cherimoya tart, cherimoya troduction of cherimoya trees ice-cream with cranberry coulis, and an on the Granada coast date endless list of other combinations. back to the sixteenth century, as a result of the constant emigration to and return from the new continent. However, It was not cultivated in earnest until the late nineteenth centuries, in small groves in the Jete area and in private gardens. The Costa Tropical cherimoya shares its designation of origin with the Malaga coast — a certifi cate of quality that covers the districts of 32 Motril, Vélez de Benaudalla, Los Guájares, Molvízar, Ítrabo, Salobreña, 33 Otívar, Lentejí, Jete and Almuñécar. Thanks to the area’s climate, with mild temperatures and little rain- fall, the Costa Tropical is now home to plantations of mangoes, med- lars, guavas and avocadoes, as well as cherimoyas.

Sugar cane Rum and confectionery on the coast

Sugar cane was introduced into Europe from Asia as part of the Mus- Rum is made from the juice that Montero is one of the preferred lim expansion. Almuñécar, Motril and Salobreña were the three privi- is extracted from sugar cane and brands of the true rum connoisseur. distilled. It fi rst began to be made leged enclaves where the Moors fi rst planted sugar cane in the eighth As an ideal accompaniment, try in Motril under an initiative by Fran- century, soon using it in many recipes and particularly for confectionery. some roscos and pestiños from cisco Montero Martín in 1963, who Vélez de Benaudalla, torta real from The sugar-cane industry was the engine that drove Motril for centuries, decided that it would be viable to Motril or fi g bread from Rubite. with at one time up to seven processing plants running. produce a quality rum. Today, Ron Combinations of sugar and fruit in the form of jams, jellies and soft drinks were given strange new names such as syrups and sorbets. The fascinating story of this crop’s history and evolution is told at the Preindustrial Sugar Museum in Motril.

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 332-332-33 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 Gastronomy in Granada Province A taste of and El Marquesado

In the heart of the province Pork products The Guadix and El Mar- In the Zalabí valey, in the quesado area lies on an Guadix and El Marque- enormous plain in the sado area, some of the eastern central part of the fi nest pigs in the prov- province, to the north of ince are reared, from the Sierra Nevada moun- which such products as tains. blood sausage, chorizo, Its cuisine, as in other longaniza, salchichón, re- parts of the province, has lleno, butifarra, and chi- developed from the culi- charrones are made, to nary traditions inherited be used as ingredients in from al-Andalus and its tortas de pringue and olla subsequent fusion with Christian culture. The altitude of the plain and matancera (a bean stew its location to the north of Sierra Nevada denies relief from the warm with ham bone, chicken south winds, and the winters are cold. The food is tasty and simple, using and potato pieces). locally sourced products that are mixed and combined in recipes with a long tradition behind them, passed down from generation to generation. 34 Land of honey, milk and cheeses 35 Lamb’s place in the local cuisine The Moorish Kingdom of Gra- nada gave great importance the Until the introduction of pigs production of honey to sweeten and pork products, lamb was one dishes and prepare the most ex- the staple sources of meat. Some quisite sweets. Even today local present-day dishes such as lamb honey is in great demand owing to with honey or with prunes are very its quality, and it is protected by the reminiscent of Moorish cuisine. Granada Honey D.O. Ibn Razi explained, by adding goat’s As Guadix and El Marquesado are Fresh cheese and honey to- milk curds. It was eaten cold. not far from the Segura area, lamb gether were also very popular. The Many well-known cheeses are has been readily included as an in- usual way to eat it was in the form made traditionally in the villages gredient option for local dishes. of cuajada, which was achieved, as of this part of Granada: organic cheeses from the El Manzano es- tate in Campotéjar, La Cabaña del Imperial porridge Queso in Ferreira and the cheese from are particularly high- The Roman armies’ staple diet con- ly rated. sisted of a gruel of oats or wheat fl our, which was also used to make a kind of unleavened bread to be eaten during their campaigns. It was very similar to the porridge that is eaten today in cold mountain districts, accompanied with fried bread and almonds.

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 334-354-35 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 Gastronomy in Granada Province A taste of Guadix and El Marquesado

Olive oil from the Granada hills Tocinillos and peaches The fi rst references to lena, where they even hold a cel- the olive oil produced ebration in the fruit’s honour, using in this country district, it to make delicious desserts such which has given its name to the designation as peaches blanched with lemon, of origin, in Granada’s as well as beverages. sub-Baetic mountains, Almonds are also featured in bordering onto Jaén and Córdoba provinces numerous popular dishes and des- to the north and the serts. Vega of Granada to the Other delicious local creation south, date back to the sixteenth century. This include the popular tocinillo de extra virgin olive has a Guadix, huevos nevaos and roscos fruity, slightly bitter aro- The high quality of the fruit de vino in Cortes and Graena and ma and plenty of body in the mouth. grown in the area is very impor- panecillos in Cogollos de Gua- It is an essential ingredient in the popular cuisine of Granada, and hardly tant for the local desserts and dix, piñonate and almond tortas in any recipe would be conceivable without it. Dishes such as rin ran (po- confectionery, particularly cherries Dólar, and leche frita and borra- tatoes, red peppers, salt cod, crushed olives, onion, hard-boiled egg and from Torrecardela and peaches chuelos in Campotéjar, to sweeten extra virgin olive oil) or snails in sauce are only two examples. from and, especially, Purul- the cold winter evenings 36 37 Stews and soups to keep warm in the Zabalí valley

On a cold winter’s day in the Zalabí valley, there’s no better way to noodles, gurullos (fl our beat the low temperatures than with a hearty soup or stew next to is mixed with water and the fi re, served with some bread from Alcudia de Guadix. Pulses such the dough is then bro- as lentils and chickpeas, are cooked with vegetables (such as lengua- ken up into small pieces za, a spinach-like wild plant, which is typically used in Píñar), cereals, like grains of rice), tarbi- poultry, pork prod- nas (porridge with mat- ucts and lamb, and alahúva and fried-bread of course plenty of croutons) and gachas virgin olive oil (its (porridge). They can quality is particular- be served with a wide ly high in Diezma) range of products such to make traditional as hare or rabbit with garlic, grapes, honey, tomatoes and peppers, stews, sopas color- potatoes, paprika, etc. ás and roast dishes. As already mentioned, local recipes particularly value the use of The cereals grown lamb (roast, Moorish style or char-grilled). in the valley’s fi elds play a leading role Soups such as almond soup from Guadix (made with chicken stock, in many local dishes. chickpeas, carrot, toast and crushed almonds, garlic, saffron, cumin The most popular and widespread dishes in the area include migas and parsley) and garlic soup in Ferreira, as well as such local inventions (called cortijeras in many villages, as this was the fi rst meal of the day as encebollado in Albuñán and Alicún de Ortega, are also well worth before setting out for the fi elds), hormigos (made with tomato, green trying, as are sustentos in and (a cas- peppers, onion, garlic, water, salt, fl our, beans and chorizo or salt cod), serole with potatoes, ribs and chorizo to which fl our is added) and andrajos (similar to the above but with hare and food colouring), chickpea pies in .

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 336-376-37 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 Gastronomy in Granada Province Food on Al-Andalus’s fi nal frontier

Border country Traditional cuisine The local history is also The traditional recipes found refl ected in the culinary in this part of Granada are also knowledge of the area, the fruit of inheritance and the fusion of cultures and food- which takes advantage of stuffs. The best example of this the highest quality ingre- can be found in the local stews: dients. Vegetables grown olla jameña, a hearty dish from in the gardens on the made with plain are used chickpeas, bacon, pig’s tail, spine with pulses to make tra- and potatoes, cachorreña soup ditional stews. Asparagus (made with potatoes, bread and from Huétor Tájar, home- eggs) from such faraway places as Zafarraya and Moclín, (a kind of stew), olla de San Antón, potaje de bolones, almond soup and sopa gra- made goat’s cheese from Montefrío or Játar, fresh trout and sturgeon nadina (made with tomatoes, peppers, olive oil, stock, roasted garlic and from Riofrío, game and pork products all give you an idea of the gas- stale bread), among many others. Papas a lo pobre (fried slices of potato tronomic potential of the fi nal frontier of al-Andalus. with peppers and onion), and gachas and migas are also classic dishes in these districts. With regard to meat dishes, few places have a wider variety on offer. You can enjoy everything from partridge casserole or conejo a la lab- Sturgeon, trout and caviar radora (a rabbit stew with sautéed garlic, lemon and bay leaf), to kid 38 goat with garlic, cordero cabañés (a lamb dish), catchfl y omelette or the 39 In 1958, two businessmen crunchy cochifrito (fried suckling pig with garlic and potatoes). In Zafarraya from Navarre, attracted by kid goat with garlic, lamb cutlets and lomo de orza are particularly popular. the pure waters of Riofrío, Riofrío is a benchmark in Granada’s cuisine. The village has over a dozen decided to set up a fi sh farm restaurants, all serving delicious trout dishes and attracting lovers of fi ne there, which was soon to be- food from far afi eld. come one of the best in the Vegetables are used to make a host of tasty, healthy dishes, prepared country. After decades of re- with great skill. Examples include the two local specialities in Moraleda de search and trials, the Riofrío Zafayona, ajo blanco with blood sausage and pisto de verano, mushrooms fi sh farm is now a benchmark from Alhama de Granada and asparagus from Huétor-Tájar, used to make for organic fi sh farming, and is the only site where this selective process is omelettes, scrambled eggs, stews, etc. Nor should we forget the tasty vegetable dishes found in Villanueva Mesía, such as remojón (a potato and applied fully to all its products. orange salad), pipirrana, porra malena and aliño de espárragos. Loja offers Their star product is without a doubt organic caviar. The fi rst batches sobrehúsa de habas (a bean stew with blood sausage, almonds, toma- were sold in 2001 to toes, lettuce, spring onion and garlic), orange remojón, porra and gazpacho, the delight of the most while in Montefrío you will fi nd asparagus and catchfl y omelettes or re- demanding gourmets. mojón, as well as delicious bread. This sturgeon caviar Cold cuts are obtained — unique in Spain — from the traditional ma- has been recognised tanza, a celebration that is often a virtual fi esta, as being of beluga where families and friends quality by CITES. gather to wait to try the Their range also in- products that are made cludes fresh or smoked immediately after the pigs trout and sturgeon as are slaughtered: chorizo, well as fi sh pâtés and blood sausage, salchichón, morcón and lomo en orza. other products.

GGuíauía GGastronomíaastronomía iidiomas.indddiomas.indd 338-398-39 001/12/111/12/11 116:516:51 Gastronomy in Granada Province Varied cuisine in western Granada province

Olive oil from western Granada Asparagus from Huétor Tájar

In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries the olive-oil tradition in Loja, Montefrío and Íllora was already well established. The production increased even more over time and the oil’s quality was recognised in 2003 when it was granted its own designation of origin. This extra virgin olive oil, with aromas and fl avour reminiscent of fresh fruit and wood, is made Although the fi rst references to asparagus from Huétor-Tájar date back with olive varieties that have a long-standing tradition in the area. only to the early twentieth century, the historical connection with the Vega of Granada (the Genil fl ood plain) goes back to the Middle Ages. The fi rst crops in the 1930s were grown on small family plots, and the From Moorish confectionery to produce was not marketed until ten years later. the nuns’ treats Today, purplish-green asparagus that is similar to the wild plant is com- monly grown in the western Vega, the result of a cross between native 40 The east of the province is per- monds and honey has remained varieties from the west, as well as Huétor Tájar, and it is also grown i other 41 haps where the delicious con- most intact. local districts, such as Loja, Salar, Villanueva Mesía, and fectionery of the Moors can en- Each town and village has its Íllora. It is sold both fresh and preserved under the Huétor Tájar asparagus own desserts that have become specifi c designation of quality. popular, such as roscos y huesos The list of ways it can be prepared is a very long one, but includes de santo from Loja; the celestiales blanched, grilled, with scrambled egg, ajo blanco with cockles and Huétor- made by the Poor Clares in Al- Tájar asparagus, rice with asparagus and cheese, rice with salmon and green hama de Granada; rosquillos from asparagus, asparagus bunches with sauce, asparagus and prawn brochettes, Moclín; bollos de manteca, bollos asparagus and tomato pudding, lamb with asparagus, asparagus and ham de aceite con pasas, roscos de carpaccio, and asparagus and walnut canapés. sartén, borrachuelos, cuajaos and pestiños from Montefrío; palillos, la arropía (a sweet made with joyed at its very best, and where foamed honey), papabeotes and the Muslim infl uence and pref- roscos de San Marcos de Zafa- erences for the use of sugar, al- rraya.

Montefrío and its cheese Montefrío cheese is the name given to a cheese made by a family fi rm (Queso de Montefrío) that keeps winning awards year after year. The cheese is fi lled and pressed by hand and the milk, from a native Granada- breed of goat, is pasteurised.

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Gastronomía serrana Merenderos The Sierra Nevada mountain range lies between the romantic Alpujarra Barely a ten-minute drive from district and old Marquesado del Zenete — an Alpine paradise with some the city, in Huétor Vega, Cájar, of the highest peaks in the Iberian Península. The hearty food of Sierra , and other surrounding towns there are doz- Nevada, characterised by having maintained the most traditional ingredi- ens of country restaurants known ents and recipes, is yet another reason to visit the area. as merenderos, where the people of Granada go at weekends to en- joy the traditional local cooking These places are very popular because of their informal, family atmosphere and attractive prices.

Cooking in the home

In this part of the mountains products derived from the ma- tanza are very much to the fore: home- 42 made longaniza, cho- 43 rizo, blood sausage, chicharrones... and the magnifi cent local ham. The cuisine varies depending on each village and its altitude. For exam- Visitors can enjoy ple, in Güéjar Sierra, on the northern slopes at 1,100 m above sea level, the fl avour of delicious more calories are necessary to counter the cold than in , south lamb cutlets, pig’s trot- of Granada at an altitude of 740 m. Still, generally speaking the winters are ters, veal en ajopollo or cold throughout the district and the food needs to be substantial. kid goat with garlic. The star products here include home-made cold cuts and pork prod- Salad and sautéed or fried vegetables ucts, as well as almonds, olive oil, cereals, garden produce, kid goat, wines , such as the tender beans that are grown on the banks of the river Monachil, and confectionery, with a markedly Moorish tradition. are the ideal accompaniment for the districts many varied meat dishes. In , to the north of Sierra Nevada, the typical tasty, Cájar makes a well-known sausage with slices of ham and pork loin. In hearty local foods include blood sausage, longaniza and chicharrones. Quéntar meat dishes make the most of matanza products, often served with nuts from local trees.

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Soups and stews to beat the cold Pacharán The cuisine can be To round off a summed up as be- good meal prop- ing based on stews erly, as well as one and soups, with meat of the many var- also playing a key ied home-made desserts, you may role. Good examples be offered a glass of this are sopa gra- of Monachil pa- nadina and almond charán, a liqueur soup, bean and spin- made with sloes ach stew, sopa de from Sierra Ne- maimones (with fried vada. garlic, bread and poached egg) and sopa de pimentón (with sardines and dried red pep- pers, boiled, scraped and mashed), both typical dishes in Cájar, together with pig’s trotters in ajopollo; migas and gachas, and chickpea and wheat stew… all are dishes that can commonly eaten all over the district. Sweeter evenings 44 Papas a lo pobre are often served to accompany a wide range of dishes. 45 Monachil’s olla de San Antón is made with dried beans, rice, chick- The district’s most peas, fennel and various parts of the pig, including the trotters and tail. popular desserts include During the matanza festival in winter, the residents of Güéjar Sierra pestiños and roscos from like to make pork dishes in the local style. A rich, liquid rice dish, kid Cájar, papaviejos from Cenes de la Vega, tortas de goat with garlic and roast Segura lamb are specialities that are enjoyed aceite, roscos de anís and by the people of La Zubia, while in Quéntar almonds, prunes, chest- leche frita with honey or nuts, olives and cherries are the ingredients that are most associated sugar and cinammon from with the local cuisine, used in dishes such as pork loin with chestnuts Güéjar Sierra, tortas de and prunes. almendra, roscos, magdale- nas and alfajores from La Zubia and huesos de santo from Monachil.

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Paella with seafood Contraviesa- Kid goat Cut the lamb into pieces, sea- son, and sauté, adding the mix- Ingredients: style stuffed with garlic ture from the mortar together with aubergines Ingredients: some of the water used to boil for 300 g rice, 1 kg mussels, boiling, adding the lamb bones to 500 g clams, 4 crayfi sh, 500 g Kid goat; extra virgin olive oil; enhance the fl avour). Simmer for Ingredients (serves 4): prawns,500 g squid, 1 lemon, garlic cloves (whole, unpeeled); an hour and a half, leave to stand 1 onion (chopped), 2 tomatoes 4 berenjenas medianas y de white wine; salt for a few minutes and serve. (chopped), 3 cloves of garlic, salt, ig4 medium aubergines, all the Method: saffron, extra virgin olive oil Motril-style gilthead same size; 3 slices cured ham Heat the oil in a frying-pan add bream with red garlic Method: (fi nely chopped); 2 hard-boiled the kid goat and sauté until gold- eggs (fi nely chopped); parsley en. Add the garlic cloves. When Ingredients: Heat the oil in an earthenware cooked, add a slosh of white wine (fi nely chopped); garlic (fi nely 1 portion gilthead sea bream; dish and add the onion, tomato and reduce. and garlic cloves to sauté. When chopped); breadcrumbs; fl our; 4 large cloves garlic (peeled); 1 dried red pepper; saffron; 2 golden, add the rice, stirring gen- salt; olive oil. Rabbit with vegetables sprigs parsley; 1 tsp tip of papri- tly, followed by 1 litre of hot wa- Method: ka or a pinch of cumin; salt; 2 dsp ter. Add the saffron and squid from the banks of the Wash the aubergines and cut vinegar; 4 dsp olive oil. and leave simmering for 20 min- river Monachil lengthways. Boil in salted water Method: utes to reduce, but without con- Fillet the fi sh and lay the fi llets until tender, drain and remove Ingredients: suming all the liquid. Season to in an earthenware dish. the pulp, reserving the skin. taste and in the last fi ve minutes 2 rabbits; 1 large onion (ju- Scald the peppers and remove Chop the pulp and mix with the add the prawns, crayfi sh, clams lienned); 1 red pepper; 1 large the pulp. In a mortar mash the carrot (julienned); 1 ripe tomato 46 and mussels. ham, garlic, parsley and boiled pepper pulp, garlic, saffron, pars- 47 egg and breadcrumbs. (fi nely chopped); 1 leek; 3 stalks ley, paprika, cumin and salt. Add mint; salt; 1 large glass white Fill the skin with this mixture, half a glass of water, the vinegar Avocadoes wine; 1/2 glass olive oil. and the oil. Tip into the dish with dust well with fl our and fry in with Method: the fi sh. Bake for 10 mins. at 160º. the oil, taking care to ensure that Cut the rabbit into small pieces Ingredients: the fi lling does not fall out. and sauté. Add the onion, carrot, Cottage-cheese and 2 aguacates, 1 vaso de sal- Serve with sliced tomato with leek and pepper. Add the tomato dried-fi g salad morejo2 avocados; 1 glass sal- salt and drizzled with olive oil. and cook slowly. Ingredients: (serves 2) morejo; 1/4 small onion (fi nely When ready, add the wine and mint and reduce, although the chopped or grated); 12 king Chestnuts with anis 1 large, fi rm tomato (sliced); 2 sauce should not be too thick. handfuls lamb’s lettuce; sliced prawns (boiled, peeled and cottage cheese; 4 dried fi gs; fresh chopped); 20 balls of melon; 50 Ingredients: Segura lamb with basil leaves (fi nely chopped), salt; g cured ham. 1 kg. de castañas peladas, a1 garlic pepper; vinegar; olive oil Method: kg chestnuts (raw or toasted; Method: Clean the avocados, prefer- peeled); sugar; 1 dsp anise; 1 Ingredients (serves 4): Make a vinaigrette dressing with the olive oil, salt, vinegar ably ripe, both the same size and stick cinnamon; 1 lemon zest; 1 1 leg of lamb, boned; dried red and basil leaves and leave to without marks on the skin. Cut orange zest; 1 cup dry anis; 2 peppers; 1 head of garlic; bay leaf; 1 glass white wine; 1 cup brandy; macerate. in half, remove the stone, and re- dsp honey. white pepper; olive oil; salt. Drain the lamb’s lettuce and move and reserve the pulp, also tomato. When the lamb’s lettuce Method: Method: saving the skins. Dice the pulp is dry, lay it on the bottom of a In 3 litres of water boil the and add the onion, mixing with In a casserole dish with water fl at serving dish. Place the to- and the wine, boil the peppers, mato on top. a wooden spoon to prevent the chestnuts together with the sug- ar, anise and cinnamon. When garlic and bay leaf simmer gently Place the cottage-cheese slices avocado from oxidising. Add the for 1 hour. Remove from the cas- on top of the tomato. nearly cooked, add the lemon king prawns and mix again. serole, saving the liquid. Remove Cut the fi gs in half and distrib- Fill the skins with this mixture and orange zest and leave to the fl esh from the peppers and ute them over the cheese. and cover with salmorejo. Final- cook completely. Add the honey mash with the garlic and brandy Drizzle with the dressing, ly, decorate with balls of melon and anis and cook on a low heat with a mortar and pestle. Save sprinkle with freshly ground both the liquid. black pepper and serve. and fi ne strips of cured ham. for another 5 mins..

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Asparagus with garlic Method: Chicken Almond soup and prawns Heat the oil in a cas- with honey serole dish or deep frying and almonds Ingredients (serves 4): Ingredients (serves 6): pan, add the spring onion and the beans, and cover. Cook 1 handful of almonds (un- 2 kg asparagus; 300 g prawns Ingredients: (peeled); 2 “cornicabra” peppers; slowly on a very low heat, stirring peeled);1 clove garlic (roasted); 2 cloves garlic; 2 slices of bread; occasionally so that all the beans 1 tender chicken, 250 g honey, 1 sprig parsley; 4 eggs; salt; 1 salt; olive oil cook through. When they are ten- 1 glass rose water, 2 cups al- glass chicken stock; 8 dsp olive der, add the ham. Stir and cover Method: monds (peeled), white pepper, oil, fried. again to cook for a further 5 mins. Remove the seeds from the Serve. salt, olive oil, sugar (optional) Method: peppers and add to the food proc- essor with the garlic, bread and Method: Fry the almonds, remove from half a glass of water. Leave for Cut the chicken into pieces, the pan (saving the oil), add the 3-4 hours. Olla de San Antón place in a casserole dish and cov- almonds to the food processor Fry the asparagus, seasoned with salt. Drain off some of the Ingredients: er with water. Dissolve the honey with the garlic and parsley, and oil and add the prawns, stirring Butter beans; dried beans; pork in rose water and add. Add the mash. In a large cooking pot, gently for a couple of minutes. Liq- spine, tail, cheeks, ear and trot- almonds, salt, pepper and a good heat 3 glasses of water, the oil uidise the ingredients in the food ters; mature ham bone; blood slosh of olive oil. Cook until the used to fry the almonds, salt, processor, adding extra water if sausage, potatoes; fennel; rice; necessary. salt sauce starts to thicken. the stock and the contents of the Tip the mixture into the pan food processor. Simmer gently Method: The chicken pieces can be and cook for 5 minutes, stirring and when hot poach one egg per gently. The night before, soak the served with some sugar sprin- person. Add fried-bread crou- dried beans and a few dried but- kled on top. Catchfl y stew tons just before serving. 48 ter beans. The next day, add the Note: This recipe has been 49 fresh and matured bacon and Ingredients: adapted from one included in ham bone, pig’s ear boil and tail, a treatise on the cuisine of the Riofrío-style trout Catchfl y; onions; garlic; toma- ribs, meat to a large pot and add toes; green peppers; potatoes; cold water to cover. Add a lit- Maghreb and Al-Andalus. Ingredients (serves 4): bread; paprika; bay leaf; yellow tle salt. Simmer gently for about food colouring; cumin; salt; olive 4 trout; 100 g Trevélez ham an hour. Add the blood sausage, oil. one or two potatoes diced into Rin - ran stew (fi nely sliced); 100 g almonds; Method: fairly large pieces, and a hand- extra virgin olive oil; Clean the catchfl y, removing ful of rice. Cook for a further 15- Ingredients: vinegar;1 head of garlic (fi nely the roots, and wash thoroughly. 20 mins. Serve hot with plenty of chopped); thyme; salt; parsley Boil in lightly salted water and 400 g salt cod; 1 onion (juli- liquid. (fi nely chopped). reserve. Sauté the chopped onion, enned); 5 dried red peppers; 2 garlic, tomato and green pepper. Plato alpujarreño cloves garlic; 1/2 bouquet of Method: Peel some potatoes in proportion to the amount of catchfl y and stir Ingredients: parsley; 1 glass white wine; 3 Clean and bone the trout. Fry into the sauté pan, adding papri- dsp olive oil the almonds in a frying pan un- Potatoes (peeled and cut into ka, water, the catchfl y, a bay leaf til golden and then mash them and a pinch of colouring. thin slices); green peppers (cut Method: into strips); onion (julienned); coarsely in a mortar. Coat the With a mortar and pestle, Clean the cod and remove any blood sausage (sliced thick); bottom of a broad frying pan mash a slice of fried bread, 2 gar- bones. Cook for 20 mins with lic cloves and cumin to taste. Re- chorizo (sliced thick); cured ham with olive oil, place the trout a glass of water and the wine. move the sauté pan from the heat, (sliced); eggs; salt; extra virgin skin-side down and sprinkle the Drain the cod, saving the liquid. add the mixture from the mortar olive oil. garlic and parsley on top. Sauté, mixture, and serve. Put the onion and four of the red Method: turning the trout and then add- peppers in a frying pan. Chop Fry the potatoes in plenty of ing a pinch of thyme, the ham the other pepper, the garlic and Fried beans with ham oil together with the onion and and the fried almonds. Just the parsley and add to the pan peppers. Season to taste. When before removing from the heat, Ingredients: the potatoes are cooked, remove together with the liquid saved. drizzle some vinegar onto the 1kg tender beans; spring onion from the heat and fry the eggs (1 Add the cod and three dessert- fi sh, and serve hot with grilled or onion (fi nely chopped); 250 g or 2 per person). In another fry- spoons of olive oil, stirring to ing pan, fry the chorizo and blood vegetables. cured ham (with fat; half diced form a thick mass. and the other half in thin slices); sausage. Serve with the ham on a extra virgin olive oil. large plate.. Serve warm.

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Airport 11 Alhama de Granada 50 Almuñécar 75 Baza 101 Calahorra, La 75 Castril 143 15 77 Guadix 55 Huéscar 149 Íllora 29 Lanjarón 37 Loja 47 Moclín 29 Montefrío 55 Motril 60 Orce 141 Órgiva 46 Salobreña 58 Santa Fe 11

Trevélez Granada from towns to Distances 81

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