WikiVoyage March 2016 Contents

1 Iran 1 1.1 Regions ...... 1 1.2 ...... 1 1.3 Other destinations ...... 2 1.4 Understand ...... 2 1.4.1 People ...... 2 1.4.2 History ...... 2 1.4.3 Religion ...... 4 1.4.4 Climate ...... 4 1.4.5 Landscape ...... 4 1.5 Get in ...... 5 1.5.1 Visa ...... 5 1.5.2 By plane ...... 7 1.5.3 By train ...... 8 1.5.4 By car ...... 9 1.5.5 By bus ...... 9 1.5.6 By boat ...... 10 1.6 Get around ...... 10 1.6.1 By plane ...... 10 1.6.2 By bus ...... 11 1.6.3 By train ...... 11 1.6.4 By taxi ...... 11 1.6.5 By car ...... 12 1.7 Talk ...... 12 1.8 See ...... 12 1.8.1 Ancient cities ...... 12 1.8.2 Tombs of some famous people ...... 13 1.8.3 Museums ...... 13 1.8.4 ...... 13 1.8.5 Palaces ...... 14 1.8.6 Squares and Streets ...... 14 1.8.7 Parks and Gardens ...... 14

i ii CONTENTS

1.8.8 Armenian churches ...... 14 1.9 Do ...... 14 1.9.1 trekking and desert excursions ...... 14 1.9.2 Festivals ...... 15 1.9.3 Ski ...... 15 1.9.4 Swim ...... 15 1.9.5 Itineraries ...... 15 1.10 Buy ...... 15 1.10.1 Currency ...... 15 1.10.2 Toman ...... 15 1.10.3 Exchanging money ...... 15 1.10.4 and bargaining ...... 16 1.10.5 Tipping ...... 16 1.10.6 Foreigner surcharges ...... 16 1.10.7 Budgeting ...... 16 1.11 Eat ...... 17 1.11.1 Traditional ...... 17 1.11.2 International cuisine ...... 18 1.11.3 Fast and snacks ...... 18 1.11.4 Sweets and ...... 18 1.11.5 Special needs ...... 18 1.12 ...... 18 1.13 Sleep ...... 19 1.14 Learn ...... 19 1.15 Work ...... 19 1.15.1 Business customs ...... 20 1.16 Stay safe ...... 20 1.16.1 Iranian perceptions of outsiders ...... 21 1.16.2 Photography ...... 21 1.16.3 Women ...... 21 1.16.4 Gay and lesbian travel ...... 21 1.16.5 Emergencies ...... 22 1.16.6 Natural disasters ...... 22 1.17 Stay healthy ...... 22 1.18 Respect ...... 22 1.18.1 Iranian nationality ...... 22 1.18.2 Dress ...... 23 1.18.3 Conduct ...... 23 1.18.4 Tarof ...... 23 1.18.5 Visiting holy sites ...... 24 1.18.6 Obscene gestures ...... 24 CONTENTS iii

1.18.7 Religion ...... 24 1.18.8 Music ...... 24 1.19 Connect ...... 25 1.19.1 Emergency services ...... 25 1.19.2 Embassies and missions ...... 25 1.19.3 Landline Phone ...... 25 1.19.4 Cell Phone (SIM card) ...... 25 1.19.5 Post ...... 25 1.19.6 Internet ...... 26 1.19.7 Internet cafes ...... 26 1.19.8 Working hours ...... 26

2 Babolsar 27 2.1 Get in ...... 27 2.2 Get around ...... 27 2.3 See ...... 27 2.4 Do ...... 27 2.5 Buy ...... 27 2.6 Eat ...... 27 2.7 Drink ...... 27 2.8 Sleep ...... 27 2.9 Connect ...... 27 2.10 Go next ...... 27

3 28 3.1 Get in ...... 28 3.2 See ...... 28 3.3 Buy ...... 28 3.4 Eat ...... 28 3.5 Sleep ...... 28 3.6 Connect ...... 28 3.7 Go next ...... 28 3.7.1 To ...... 28 3.7.2 To ...... 28 3.7.3 To ...... 28

4 Bojnourd 30 4.1 Understand ...... 30 4.2 Get in ...... 30 4.3 Get around ...... 30 4.4 See ...... 30 4.5 Do ...... 30 iv CONTENTS

4.6 Buy ...... 30 4.7 Eat ...... 30 4.8 Drink ...... 30 4.9 Sleep ...... 30 4.10 Connect ...... 30 4.11 Go next ...... 30

5 31 5.1 Get in ...... 31 5.2 Get around ...... 31 5.3 See ...... 31 5.4 Do ...... 31 5.5 Buy ...... 31 5.6 Eat ...... 32 5.7 Drink ...... 32 5.8 Sleep ...... 32 5.9 Connect ...... 32 5.10 Go next ...... 32

6 Hamadan 33 6.1 Understand ...... 33 6.2 Get in ...... 33 6.2.1 By plane ...... 33 6.2.2 By train ...... 33 6.2.3 By car ...... 33 6.2.4 By bus ...... 33 6.3 Get around ...... 33 6.4 See ...... 33 6.5 Do ...... 34 6.6 Buy ...... 34 6.7 Eat ...... 34 6.8 Drink ...... 34 6.9 Sleep ...... 34 6.10 Connect ...... 34 6.11 Cope ...... 34 6.12 Stay safe ...... 34 6.13 Go next ...... 34

7 Masjed Solayman 35 7.1 Get in ...... 35 7.2 Get around ...... 35 7.3 See ...... 35 CONTENTS v

7.4 Do ...... 35 7.5 Buy ...... 35 7.6 Eat ...... 35 7.7 Drink ...... 35 7.8 Sleep ...... 35 7.9 Go next ...... 35

8 36 8.1 Understand ...... 36 8.2 Get in ...... 36 8.2.1 By air ...... 36 8.2.2 By train ...... 36 8.2.3 By car ...... 36 8.3 Get around ...... 36 8.4 See ...... 36 8.5 Do ...... 37 8.6 Buy ...... 37 8.7 Eat ...... 37 8.8 Drink ...... 37 8.9 Sleep ...... 37 8.10 Respect ...... 37 8.11 Go next ...... 37

9 Baluchistan 38 9.1 Regions ...... 38 9.2 Cities ...... 38 9.3 Other destinations ...... 38 9.4 Understand ...... 38 9.5 Talk ...... 38 9.6 Get in ...... 38 9.7 Get around ...... 38 9.8 See ...... 38 9.9 Do ...... 38 9.10 Eat ...... 38 9.11 Drink ...... 38 9.12 Stay safe ...... 38 9.13 Go next ...... 38

10 Baluchistan 39 10.1 Regions ...... 39 10.2 Cities ...... 39 10.3 Other destinations ...... 39 vi CONTENTS

10.4 Understand ...... 39 10.5 Talk ...... 39 10.6 Get in ...... 39 10.7 Get around ...... 39 10.8 See ...... 39 10.9 Do ...... 39 10.10Eat ...... 39 10.11Drink ...... 39 10.12Stay safe ...... 39 10.13Go next ...... 39

11 Caspian Iran 40 11.1 ...... 40 11.2 Cities ...... 40 11.3 Other destinations ...... 40 11.4 Understand ...... 40 11.5 Talk ...... 41 11.6 Get in ...... 41 11.7 Get around ...... 41 11.8 See ...... 41 11.8.1 Itineraries ...... 41 11.9 Do ...... 41 11.10Eat ...... 41 11.11Drink ...... 41 11.12Stay safe ...... 41 11.13Go next ...... 42

12 Aqqala 43 12.1 Understand ...... 43 12.2 Get in ...... 43 12.3 Get around ...... 43 12.4 See ...... 43 12.5 Do ...... 43 12.6 Buy ...... 43 12.7 Eat ...... 43 12.8 Drink ...... 43 12.9 Sleep ...... 43 12.10Connect ...... 43 12.11Go next ...... 43

13 44 13.1 Understand ...... 44 CONTENTS vii

13.1.1 History ...... 44 13.2 Get in ...... 44 13.3 Get around ...... 44 13.4 See ...... 44 13.5 Do ...... 44 13.6 Buy ...... 44 13.7 Eat ...... 44 13.8 Drink ...... 44 13.9 Sleep ...... 44 13.10Go next ...... 44

14 Bandar Torkaman 45 14.1 Understand ...... 45 14.2 Get in ...... 45 14.3 Get around ...... 45 14.4 See ...... 45 14.5 Do ...... 45 14.6 Buy ...... 45 14.7 Eat ...... 45 14.8 Drink ...... 45 14.9 Sleep ...... 45 14.10Connect ...... 45 14.11Go next ...... 45

15 46 15.1 Understand ...... 46 15.2 Get in ...... 46 15.2.1 By plane ...... 46 15.2.2 By car ...... 46 15.2.3 By bus ...... 46 15.2.4 By boat ...... 46 15.3 Get around ...... 46 15.4 See ...... 46 15.5 Do ...... 46 15.6 Buy ...... 46 15.7 Eat ...... 46 15.8 Drink ...... 46 15.9 Sleep ...... 46 15.10Connect ...... 46 15.11Stay safe ...... 46 15.12Cope ...... 46 15.13Go next ...... 46 viii CONTENTS

16 Fouman 47 16.1 Understand ...... 47 16.2 Get in ...... 47 16.3 Get around ...... 47 16.4 See ...... 47 16.5 Do ...... 47 16.6 Buy ...... 47 16.7 Eat ...... 47 16.8 Drink ...... 47 16.9 Sleep ...... 47 16.10Connect ...... 47 16.11Go next ...... 47

17 Ghaemshahr 48 17.1 Understand ...... 48 17.2 Get in ...... 48 17.3 Get around ...... 48 17.4 See ...... 48 17.5 Do ...... 48 17.6 Buy ...... 48 17.7 Eat ...... 48 17.8 Drink ...... 48 17.9 Sleep ...... 48 17.10Connect ...... 48 17.11Go next ...... 48

18 49 18.1 Understand ...... 49 18.2 Get in ...... 49 18.3 Get around ...... 49 18.4 See ...... 49 18.5 Do ...... 49 18.6 Buy ...... 49 18.7 Eat ...... 49 18.8 Drink ...... 49 18.9 Sleep ...... 49 18.10Connect ...... 49 18.11Stay safe ...... 49 18.12Cope ...... 49 18.13Go next ...... 49

19 Masouleh 50 CONTENTS ix

19.1 Get in ...... 50 19.2 Get around ...... 50 19.3 See ...... 50 19.4 Do ...... 50 19.5 Buy ...... 50 19.6 Eat ...... 50 19.7 Drink ...... 50 19.8 Sleep ...... 50 19.9 Connect ...... 51 19.10Go next ...... 51

20 Ramsar 52 20.1 Get in ...... 52 20.2 Get around ...... 52 20.3 See ...... 52 20.4 Do ...... 52 20.5 Buy ...... 52 20.6 Eat ...... 52 20.7 Drink ...... 52 20.8 Sleep ...... 52 20.9 Connect ...... 52 20.10Go next ...... 52

21 53 21.1 Get in ...... 53 21.1.1 By Air ...... 53 21.1.2 By Bus ...... 53 21.1.3 By Shared Taxi ...... 53 21.2 Get around ...... 53 21.3 See ...... 53 21.4 Do ...... 54 21.5 Buy ...... 54 21.6 Eat ...... 54 21.7 Sleep ...... 54 21.7.1 Hotels ...... 54 21.7.2 Mid-range ...... 54 21.7.3 Budget ...... 54 21.8 Stay safe ...... 55 21.8.1 Emergency services phone numbers ...... 55 21.9 Go next ...... 55

22 Sari 56 x CONTENTS

22.1 Understand ...... 56 22.2 Get in ...... 56 22.2.1 By plane ...... 56 22.2.2 By train ...... 56 22.2.3 By car ...... 57 22.2.4 By bus ...... 57 22.2.5 By boat ...... 57 22.3 Get around ...... 57 22.3.1 By car ...... 57 22.4 See ...... 57 22.5 Do ...... 58 22.5.1 Sports ...... 58 22.6 Learn ...... 58 22.7 Buy ...... 58 22.8 Eat ...... 58 22.9 Drink ...... 59 22.10Sleep ...... 59 22.10.1 Mazandaran Sea Resorts ...... 59 22.11Connect ...... 59 22.12Stay safe ...... 59 22.13Cope ...... 59 22.14Go next ...... 60

23 Iranian 61 23.1 Cities ...... 61 23.1.1 Provincial capitals ...... 61 23.1.2 Other major cities ...... 61 23.2 Other destinations ...... 61 23.3 Understand ...... 61 23.3.1 Talk ...... 61 23.4 Get in ...... 62 23.4.1 By plane ...... 62 23.4.2 By car ...... 62 23.4.3 By train ...... 62 23.4.4 By bus ...... 62 23.5 Get around ...... 62 23.6 See ...... 62 23.6.1 Itineraries ...... 63 23.7 Do ...... 63 23.8 Eat ...... 63 23.9 Drink ...... 63 23.10Stay safe ...... 63 CONTENTS xi

23.11Go next ...... 63

24 64 24.1 Understand ...... 64 24.2 Get in ...... 64 24.2.1 By car ...... 64 24.3 Get around ...... 64 24.4 See ...... 64 24.5 Do ...... 64 24.6 Buy ...... 64 24.7 Eat ...... 64 24.8 Drink ...... 64 24.9 Sleep ...... 64 24.10Connect ...... 64 24.11Go next ...... 64

25 Kandovan 65 25.1 Understand ...... 65 25.2 Get in ...... 65 25.2.1 By car ...... 65 25.3 Get around ...... 65 25.4 See ...... 65 25.5 Do ...... 65 25.6 Buy ...... 65 25.7 Eat ...... 65 25.8 Drink ...... 65 25.9 Sleep ...... 65 25.10Connect ...... 66 25.11Go next ...... 66

26 Maku 67 26.1 Understand ...... 67 26.2 Get in ...... 67 26.2.1 By car ...... 67 26.3 Get around ...... 67 26.4 See ...... 67 26.5 Do ...... 67 26.6 Buy ...... 67 26.7 Eat ...... 67 26.8 Drink ...... 67 26.9 Sleep ...... 67 26.10Connect ...... 67 xii CONTENTS

26.11Go next ...... 67

27 68 27.1 Understand ...... 68 27.2 Get in ...... 68 27.2.1 By train ...... 68 27.2.2 By bus ...... 68 27.2.3 By plane ...... 68 27.3 Get around ...... 68 27.4 See ...... 68 27.5 Do ...... 69 27.6 Buy ...... 69 27.7 Eat ...... 69 27.8 Drink ...... 69 27.9 Sleep ...... 69 27.10Connect ...... 69 27.11Go next ...... 69

28 Sardroud 70 28.1 Understand ...... 70 28.1.1 People ...... 70 28.2 Talk ...... 70 28.3 Get in ...... 70 28.3.1 By plane ...... 70 28.3.2 By car ...... 70 28.3.3 By train ...... 70 28.3.4 By bus ...... 70 28.4 Get around ...... 70 28.5 Talk ...... 70 28.6 See ...... 70 28.7 Do ...... 70 28.8 Buy ...... 70 28.9 Eat ...... 70 28.10Sleep ...... 70 28.11Connect ...... 70 28.11.1 Phone ...... 70 28.11.2 Mobile ...... 71 28.12Go next ...... 71

29 72 29.1 Understand ...... 72 29.1.1 People ...... 72 CONTENTS xiii

29.1.2 Geography ...... 72 29.1.3 Climate ...... 72 29.1.4 History ...... 72 29.2 Talk ...... 73 29.3 Get in ...... 73 29.3.1 By plane ...... 73 29.3.2 By car ...... 74 29.3.3 By train ...... 74 29.3.4 By bus ...... 74 29.4 Get around ...... 74 29.5 See ...... 74 29.5.1 Inside Tabriz ...... 74 29.5.2 Around Tabriz ...... 77 29.6 Do ...... 79 29.7 Learn ...... 80 29.8 Buy ...... 80 29.8.1 Souvenir ...... 80 29.8.2 Traditional Shopping Center ...... 80 29.8.3 Modern Shopping Centers ...... 80 29.9 Eat ...... 80 29.10Drink ...... 81 29.11Sleep ...... 81 29.11.1 Hotels ...... 81 29.11.2 Guest Houses ...... 82 29.12Connect ...... 82 29.12.1 Phone ...... 82 29.12.2 Internet ...... 82 29.13Stay safe ...... 83 29.14Go next ...... 83

30 84 30.1 Get in ...... 84 30.2 Get around ...... 84 30.3 See ...... 84 30.4 Do ...... 84 30.5 Buy ...... 84 30.6 Eat ...... 84 30.7 Drink ...... 84 30.8 Sleep ...... 84 30.9 Connect ...... 84 30.10Go next ...... 84 xiv CONTENTS

31 85 31.1 Get in ...... 85 31.1.1 By plane ...... 85 31.1.2 By train ...... 85 31.1.3 By car ...... 85 31.1.4 By bus ...... 85 31.1.5 By boat ...... 85 31.2 Get around ...... 85 31.3 See ...... 85 31.4 Do ...... 86 31.5 Buy ...... 86 31.6 Eat ...... 86 31.7 Drink ...... 86 31.8 Sleep ...... 86 31.9 Connect ...... 86 31.10Stay safe ...... 86 31.11Go next ...... 86

32 Zanjan 87 32.1 Get in ...... 87 32.2 Get around ...... 87 32.3 See ...... 87 32.4 Do ...... 87 32.5 Buy ...... 87 32.6 Eat ...... 87 32.7 Drink ...... 87 32.8 Sleep ...... 87 32.9 Go next ...... 87

33 Khorasan 88 33.1 Provinces ...... 88 33.2 Cities ...... 88 33.3 Other destinations ...... 88 33.4 Understand ...... 88 33.5 Talk ...... 88 33.6 Get in ...... 88 33.7 Get around ...... 88 33.8 See ...... 88 33.9 Do ...... 89 33.10Eat ...... 89 33.11Drink ...... 89 33.12Sleep ...... 89 CONTENTS xv

33.13Go next ...... 89

34 Esfarayen 90 34.1 Understand ...... 90 34.2 Get in ...... 90 34.2.1 By plane ...... 90 34.2.2 By train ...... 90 34.3 Get around ...... 90 34.4 See ...... 90 34.5 Do ...... 90 34.6 Buy ...... 90 34.7 Eat ...... 90 34.8 Drink ...... 90 34.9 Sleep ...... 90 34.10Connect ...... 90 34.11Go next ...... 90

35 Mashhad 91 35.1 Understand ...... 91 35.2 Get in ...... 91 35.2.1 By air ...... 91 35.2.2 By train ...... 91 35.2.3 By bus ...... 91 35.3 Get around ...... 92 35.4 See ...... 92 35.5 Money ...... 93 35.6 Buy ...... 93 35.7 Learn ...... 93 35.8 Eat ...... 94 35.9 Sleep ...... 94 35.9.1 Hotels ...... 94 35.9.2 Homestays ...... 94 35.10Stay safe ...... 95 35.10.1 Emergency services phone numbers ...... 95 35.11Go next ...... 95 35.11.1 Inside Iran ...... 95 35.11.2 To Turkmenistan ...... 95 35.11.3 To ...... 95 35.11.4 Visas and permits ...... 95

36 96 36.1 Get in ...... 96 xvi CONTENTS

36.1.1 By train ...... 96 36.1.2 By minibuses ...... 96 36.2 Get around ...... 96 36.3 Do ...... 96 36.4 Buy ...... 96 36.5 Eat ...... 96 36.6 Drink ...... 97 36.7 Sleep ...... 97 36.8 Connect ...... 97 36.9 Go next ...... 97

37 Qayen 98 37.1 Understand ...... 98 37.2 Get in ...... 98 37.3 Get around ...... 98 37.4 See ...... 98 37.5 Do ...... 98 37.6 Buy ...... 98 37.7 Eat ...... 98 37.8 Drink ...... 98 37.9 Sleep ...... 98 37.10Connect ...... 98 37.11Go next ...... 98

38 99 38.1 Understand ...... 99 38.2 Get in ...... 99 38.2.1 By plane ...... 99 38.2.2 By car ...... 99 38.2.3 By bus ...... 99 38.2.4 By boat ...... 99 38.3 Get around ...... 99 38.4 See ...... 99 38.5 Do ...... 99 38.6 Buy ...... 99 38.7 Eat ...... 99 38.7.1 Budget ...... 99 38.7.2 Mid-range ...... 99 38.7.3 Splurge ...... 99 38.8 Drink ...... 99 38.9 Sleep ...... 99 38.9.1 Budget ...... 99 CONTENTS xvii

38.9.2 Mid-range ...... 99 38.9.3 Splurge ...... 99 38.10Connect ...... 99 38.11Stay safe ...... 99 38.12Cope ...... 99 38.13Go next ...... 99

39 Torbat Jam 100 39.1 Understand ...... 100 39.2 Get in ...... 100 39.2.1 By plane ...... 100 39.2.2 By car ...... 100 39.2.3 By bus ...... 100 39.2.4 By boat ...... 100 39.3 Get around ...... 100 39.4 See ...... 100 39.5 Do ...... 100 39.6 Buy ...... 100 39.7 Eat ...... 100 39.7.1 Budget ...... 100 39.7.2 Mid-range ...... 100 39.7.3 Splurge ...... 100 39.8 Drink ...... 100 39.9 Sleep ...... 100 39.9.1 Budget ...... 100 39.9.2 Mid-range ...... 100 39.9.3 Splurge ...... 100 39.10Connect ...... 100 39.11Stay safe ...... 100 39.12Cope ...... 100 39.13Go next ...... 100

40 Khuzestan 101 40.1 Cities ...... 101 40.2 Other destinations ...... 101 40.3 Talk ...... 101 40.4 Get in ...... 101 40.5 Get around ...... 101 40.6 See ...... 101 40.7 Do ...... 101 40.8 Eat ...... 101 40.9 Drink ...... 101 xviii CONTENTS

40.10Stay safe ...... 101 40.11Go next ...... 102

41 Abadan 103 41.1 Get in ...... 103 41.1.1 By plane ...... 103 41.2 Get around ...... 103 41.3 See ...... 103 41.4 Do ...... 103 41.5 Buy ...... 103 41.6 Eat ...... 103 41.7 Drink ...... 103 41.8 Sleep ...... 103 41.9 Go next ...... 103

42 104 42.1 Understand ...... 104 42.2 Get in ...... 104 42.2.1 By plane ...... 104 42.2.2 By train ...... 104 42.2.3 By car ...... 104 42.2.4 By bus ...... 104 42.2.5 By boat ...... 104 42.3 Get around ...... 104 42.4 See ...... 104 42.5 Do ...... 105 42.6 Buy ...... 105 42.7 Eat ...... 105 42.7.1 Budget ...... 105 42.7.2 Mid-range ...... 105 42.7.3 Splurge ...... 105 42.8 Drink ...... 105 42.9 Sleep ...... 105 42.9.1 Budget ...... 105 42.9.2 Mid-range ...... 105 42.9.3 Splurge ...... 105 42.10Connect ...... 105 42.11Stay safe ...... 105 42.11.1 Emergency services phone numbers ...... 106 42.12Stay healthy ...... 106 42.13Cope ...... 106 42.14Go next ...... 106 CONTENTS xix

43 107 43.1 Get in ...... 107 43.1.1 By plane ...... 107 43.2 Get around ...... 107 43.3 See ...... 107 43.4 Do ...... 107 43.5 Buy ...... 107 43.6 Eat ...... 107 43.7 Drink ...... 107 43.8 Sleep ...... 107 43.9 Go next ...... 107

44 108 44.1 Understand ...... 108 44.2 Get in ...... 108 44.3 Get around ...... 108 44.4 See ...... 108 44.5 Do ...... 108 44.6 Buy ...... 108 44.7 Eat ...... 108 44.8 Drink ...... 108 44.9 Sleep ...... 108 44.10Connect ...... 108 44.11Go next ...... 108

45 109 45.1 Get in ...... 109 45.1.1 By plane ...... 109 45.2 Get around ...... 109 45.3 See ...... 109 45.4 Do ...... 109 45.5 Buy ...... 109 45.6 Eat ...... 109 45.7 Drink ...... 109 45.8 Sleep ...... 109 45.9 Go next ...... 109

46 110 46.1 Get in ...... 110 46.2 Get around ...... 110 46.3 See ...... 110 46.4 Do ...... 110 xx CONTENTS

46.5 Buy ...... 110 46.6 Eat ...... 110 46.7 Drink ...... 110 46.8 Sleep ...... 110 46.9 Connect ...... 110 46.10Go next ...... 110

47 Tchogha Zanbil 111 47.1 Get in ...... 111 47.2 Get around ...... 111 47.3 See ...... 111 47.4 Do ...... 111 47.5 Buy ...... 111 47.6 Eat ...... 111 47.7 Drink ...... 111 47.8 Sleep ...... 111 47.9 Go next ...... 111

48 Lorestan 112 48.1 Regions ...... 112 48.2 Cities ...... 112 48.3 Other destinations ...... 112 48.4 Understand ...... 112 48.5 Talk ...... 112 48.6 Get in ...... 112 48.6.1 By plane ...... 112 48.6.2 By train ...... 112 48.6.3 By bus ...... 113 48.6.4 By car ...... 113 48.7 Get around ...... 113 48.8 See ...... 113 48.8.1 Itineraries ...... 113 48.9 Do ...... 113 48.10Eat ...... 113 48.11Drink ...... 113 48.12Stay safe ...... 113 48.13Go next ...... 114

49 115 49.1 Talk ...... 115 49.2 Get in ...... 115 49.3 Get around ...... 115 CONTENTS xxi

49.4 See ...... 115 49.5 Do ...... 116 49.6 Sleep ...... 116 49.7 Eat ...... 116 49.8 Drink ...... 116 49.9 Stay safe ...... 116 49.10Go next ...... 116

50 117 50.1 Understand ...... 117 50.2 Get in ...... 117 50.3 See ...... 117 50.4 Do ...... 117 50.5 Buy ...... 117 50.6 Eat ...... 117 50.7 Drink ...... 117 50.8 Sleep ...... 117 50.9 Connect ...... 117 50.10Go next ...... 117

51 Nurabad (Lorestan) 118 51.1 Understand ...... 118 51.2 Get in ...... 118 51.3 Get around ...... 118 51.4 See ...... 118 51.5 Do ...... 118 51.6 Buy ...... 118 51.7 Eat ...... 118 51.8 Drink ...... 118 51.9 Sleep ...... 118 51.10Connect ...... 118 51.11Go next ...... 118

52 Markazi 119 52.1 Cities ...... 119 52.2 Other destinations ...... 119 52.3 Understand ...... 119 52.4 Talk ...... 119 52.5 Get in ...... 119 52.6 Get around ...... 119 52.7 See ...... 119 52.7.1 Itineraries ...... 119 xxii CONTENTS

52.8 Do ...... 119 52.9 Eat ...... 119 52.10Drink ...... 119 52.11Stay safe ...... 119 52.12Go next ...... 119

53 120 53.1 Get in ...... 120 53.2 Get around ...... 120 53.3 See ...... 120 53.4 Do ...... 120 53.5 Buy ...... 120 53.6 Eat ...... 120 53.7 Drink ...... 120 53.8 Sleep ...... 120 53.9 Connect ...... 120 53.10Go next ...... 120

54 121 54.1 Get in ...... 121 54.2 See ...... 121 54.3 Do ...... 121 54.4 Buy ...... 121 54.5 Eat ...... 121 54.6 Drink ...... 121 54.7 Sleep ...... 121 54.8 Connect ...... 121 54.9 Go next ...... 121

55 122 55.1 Understand ...... 122 55.2 Get in ...... 122 55.3 Get around ...... 122 55.4 See ...... 122 55.5 Do ...... 122 55.6 Buy ...... 122 55.7 Eat ...... 122 55.8 Drink ...... 122 55.9 Sleep ...... 122 55.10Connect ...... 122 55.11Go next ...... 122

56 () 123 CONTENTS xxiii

56.1 Cities ...... 123 56.2 Other destinations ...... 123 56.3 Understand ...... 123 56.4 Talk ...... 123 56.5 Get in ...... 123 56.6 Get around ...... 123 56.7 See ...... 123 56.7.1 Itineraries ...... 123 56.8 Do ...... 123 56.9 Eat ...... 123 56.10Drink ...... 123 56.11Stay safe ...... 123 56.12Go next ...... 123

57 Qazvin 124 57.1 Understand ...... 124 57.2 Get in ...... 124 57.2.1 By plane ...... 124 57.2.2 By car ...... 124 57.2.3 By bus ...... 124 57.3 Get around ...... 124 57.4 See ...... 124 57.5 Do ...... 125 57.6 Learn ...... 125 57.7 Buy ...... 125 57.7.1 Qazvin Shopping Complexes ...... 125 57.7.2 Qazvin hypermarket ...... 125 57.8 Eat ...... 125 57.8.1 Budget ...... 126 57.9 Drink ...... 126 57.10Connect ...... 126 57.11Stay safe ...... 126 57.11.1 Emergency services phone numbers ...... 126 57.12Sleep ...... 126 57.13Cope ...... 126 57.14Go next ...... 126

58 127 58.1 Understand ...... 127 58.2 Get in ...... 127 58.3 Get around ...... 127 58.4 See ...... 127 xxiv CONTENTS

58.5 Do ...... 127 58.6 Buy ...... 127 58.7 Eat ...... 127 58.8 Drink ...... 127 58.9 Sleep ...... 127 58.10Connect ...... 127 58.11Go next ...... 127

59 128 59.1 Provinces ...... 128 59.2 Cities ...... 128 59.3 Other destinations ...... 128 59.4 Understand ...... 128 59.5 Talk ...... 128 59.6 Get in ...... 128 59.7 Get around ...... 128 59.8 See ...... 128 59.8.1 Itineraries ...... 128 59.9 Do ...... 129 59.10Eat ...... 129 59.11Drink ...... 129 59.12Stay safe ...... 129 59.13Go next ...... 129

60 (province) 130 60.1 Cities ...... 130 60.2 Other destinations ...... 130 60.3 Understand ...... 130 60.4 Talk ...... 130 60.5 Get in ...... 130 60.6 Get around ...... 130 60.7 See ...... 130 60.8 Do ...... 130 60.8.1 Skiing and Snowboarding ...... 131 60.8.2 Hiking ...... 131 60.9 Eat ...... 131 60.10Drink ...... 131 60.11Stay safe ...... 131 60.12Go next ...... 131

61 Chahar Mahaal and Bakhtiari 132 61.1 Cities ...... 132 CONTENTS xxv

61.2 Other destinations ...... 132 61.3 Understand ...... 132 61.4 Talk ...... 132 61.5 Get in ...... 132 61.6 Get around ...... 132 61.7 See ...... 132 61.8 Do ...... 132 61.9 Eat ...... 132 61.10Drink ...... 132 61.11Stay safe ...... 132 61.12Go next ...... 132

62 Hamadan (province) 133 62.1 Cities ...... 133 62.2 Other destinations ...... 133 62.3 Understand ...... 133 62.4 Talk ...... 133 62.5 Get in ...... 133 62.6 Get around ...... 133 62.7 See ...... 133 62.8 Do ...... 133 62.9 Eat ...... 133 62.10Drink ...... 133 62.11Stay safe ...... 133 62.12Go next ...... 133

63 Ilam (province) 134 63.1 Cities ...... 134 63.2 Other destinations ...... 134 63.3 Understand ...... 134 63.4 Talk ...... 134 63.5 Get in ...... 134 63.6 Get around ...... 134 63.7 See ...... 134 63.8 Do ...... 134 63.9 Eat ...... 134 63.10Drink ...... 134 63.11Stay safe ...... 134 63.12Go next ...... 134

64 Kermanshah (province) 135 64.1 Cities ...... 135 xxvi CONTENTS

64.2 Other destinations ...... 135 64.3 Understand ...... 135 64.4 Talk ...... 135 64.5 Get in ...... 135 64.6 Get around ...... 135 64.7 See ...... 135 64.8 Do ...... 135 64.9 Eat ...... 135 64.10Drink ...... 135 64.11Stay safe ...... 135 64.12Go next ...... 135

65 Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad 136 65.1 Cities ...... 136 65.2 Other destinations ...... 136 65.3 Understand ...... 136 65.4 Talk ...... 136 65.5 Get in ...... 136 65.6 Get around ...... 136 65.7 See ...... 136 65.8 Do ...... 136 65.9 Eat ...... 136 65.10Drink ...... 136 65.11Stay safe ...... 136 65.12Go next ...... 136

66 Kurdistan (province) 137 66.1 Cities ...... 137 66.2 Other destinations ...... 137 66.3 Understand ...... 137 66.4 Talk ...... 137 66.5 Get in ...... 137 66.6 Get around ...... 137 66.7 See ...... 137 66.8 Do ...... 137 66.9 Eat ...... 137 66.10Drink ...... 137 66.11Stay safe ...... 137 66.12Go next ...... 137

67 Central Iran 138 67.1 Regions ...... 138 CONTENTS xxvii

67.2 Cities ...... 138 67.3 Other destinations ...... 138 67.4 Understand ...... 138 67.5 Talk ...... 138 67.6 Get in ...... 138 67.7 Get around ...... 138 67.8 See ...... 138 67.8.1 Itineraries ...... 138 67.9 Do ...... 138 67.10Eat ...... 138 67.11Drink ...... 138 67.12Stay safe ...... 138 67.13Go next ...... 138

68 Qom (province) 139 68.1 Regions ...... 139 68.2 Cities ...... 139 68.3 Other destinations ...... 139 68.4 Understand ...... 139 68.5 Get in ...... 139 68.5.1 By air ...... 139 68.5.2 By train ...... 139 68.5.3 By car ...... 139 68.6 Get around ...... 139 68.7 See ...... 139 68.8 Do ...... 139 68.9 Buy ...... 139 68.10Eat ...... 140 68.11Drink ...... 140 68.12Stay safe ...... 140 68.13Go next ...... 140

69 141 69.1 Regions ...... 141 69.2 Cities ...... 141 69.3 Other destinations ...... 141 69.4 Understand ...... 141 69.4.1 Climate ...... 141 69.5 Talk ...... 142 69.6 Get in ...... 142 69.6.1 By plane ...... 142 69.6.2 By road ...... 142 xxviii CONTENTS

69.6.3 By train ...... 142 69.7 Get around ...... 142 69.8 See ...... 142 69.8.1 Itineraries ...... 142 69.9 Do ...... 142 69.10Eat ...... 143 69.11Drink ...... 143 69.12Stay safe ...... 143 69.13Go next ...... 143

70 144 70.1 Get in ...... 144 70.2 Get around ...... 144 70.3 See ...... 144 70.4 Do ...... 144 70.5 Buy ...... 144 70.6 Eat ...... 144 70.7 Drink ...... 144 70.8 Sleep ...... 144 70.9 Connect ...... 144 70.10Go next ...... 144

71 Firouzabad 145 71.1 Get in ...... 145 71.2 Get around ...... 145 71.3 See ...... 145 71.4 Do ...... 145 71.5 Buy ...... 145 71.6 Eat ...... 145 71.7 Drink ...... 145 71.8 Sleep ...... 145 71.9 Connect ...... 145 71.10Go next ...... 145

72 Kazeroon 146 72.1 Understand ...... 146 72.2 Get in ...... 146 72.3 Get around ...... 146 72.4 See ...... 146 72.5 Do ...... 146 72.6 Buy ...... 146 72.7 Eat ...... 146 CONTENTS xxix

72.8 Drink ...... 146 72.9 Sleep ...... 146 72.10Connect ...... 146 72.11Go next ...... 146

73 Margoon Waterfall 147 73.1 Understand ...... 147 73.1.1 History ...... 147 73.1.2 Landscape ...... 147 73.1.3 Flora and fauna ...... 147 73.1.4 Climate ...... 147 73.2 Get in ...... 147 73.3 Fees/Permits ...... 147 73.4 Get around ...... 147 73.5 See ...... 147 73.6 Do ...... 148 73.7 Buy ...... 148 73.8 Eat ...... 148 73.9 Drink ...... 148 73.10Sleep ...... 148 73.10.1 Lodging ...... 148 73.10.2 Camping ...... 148 73.10.3 Backcountry ...... 148 73.11Stay safe ...... 148 73.12Go next ...... 148

74 Pasargad 149 74.1 Get in ...... 149 74.2 Get around ...... 149 74.3 See ...... 149 74.4 Do ...... 149 74.5 Buy ...... 149 74.6 Eat ...... 149 74.7 Drink ...... 149 74.8 Sleep ...... 149 74.9 Connect ...... 149 74.10Go next ...... 149

75 Sepidan 150 75.1 Get in ...... 150 75.2 Get around ...... 150 75.3 See ...... 150 xxx CONTENTS

75.4 Do ...... 150 75.5 Buy ...... 150 75.6 Eat ...... 150 75.7 Drink ...... 150 75.8 Sleep ...... 150 75.9 Connect ...... 150 75.10Go next ...... 150

76 151 76.1 Get in ...... 151 76.1.1 By plane ...... 151 76.1.2 By train ...... 151 76.1.3 By bus ...... 151 76.1.4 By car ...... 151 76.2 Get around ...... 151 76.3 Talk ...... 152 76.4 See ...... 152 76.5 Do ...... 153 76.6 Buy ...... 153 76.6.1 Bazaars ...... 154 76.6.2 Shopping malls ...... 154 76.7 Eat ...... 154 76.7.1 Local ...... 154 76.7.2 Restaurants ...... 154 76.7.3 ...... 155 76.7.4 Cafes ...... 155 76.7.5 Food Gardens ...... 155 76.8 Drink ...... 156 76.9 Sleep ...... 156 76.9.1 Budget ...... 156 76.9.2 Mid-range ...... 156 76.9.3 Splurge ...... 156 76.10Stay safe ...... 156 76.11Go next ...... 157

77 (province) 158 77.1 Cities ...... 158 77.2 Other destinations ...... 158 77.3 Understand ...... 158 77.4 Talk ...... 158 77.5 Get in ...... 158 77.6 Get around ...... 158 CONTENTS xxxi

77.7 See ...... 158 77.7.1 Itineraries ...... 158 77.8 Do ...... 158 77.9 Eat ...... 158 77.10Drink ...... 158 77.11Stay safe ...... 158 77.12Go next ...... 158

78 Aran va Bidgol 159 78.1 Understand ...... 159 78.2 Get in ...... 159 78.3 Get around ...... 159 78.4 See ...... 159 78.5 Do ...... 159 78.6 Buy ...... 159 78.7 Eat ...... 159 78.8 Drink ...... 159 78.9 Sleep ...... 159 78.10Connect ...... 159 78.11Go next ...... 159

79 Isfahan 160 79.1 Understand ...... 160 79.2 Get in ...... 160 79.2.1 By plane ...... 160 79.2.2 By train ...... 160 79.2.3 By car ...... 160 79.2.4 By bus ...... 160 79.3 Get around ...... 160 79.3.1 By bus ...... 160 79.4 See ...... 161 79.4.1 Squares and streets ...... 161 79.4.2 ...... 161 79.4.3 Palaces ...... 161 79.4.4 Schools ...... 162 79.4.5 ...... 162 79.4.6 Churches and Cathedrals ...... 163 79.4.7 Gardens ...... 163 79.4.8 Others ...... 163 79.5 Do ...... 163 79.6 Learn ...... 163 79.7 Work ...... 164 xxxii CONTENTS

79.8 Buy ...... 164 79.9 Eat ...... 164 79.9.1 Local foods ...... 164 79.10Drink ...... 164 79.10.1 Coffee ...... 164 79.11Sleep ...... 164 79.11.1 Budget ...... 164 79.11.2 Mid-Range ...... 165 79.11.3 Splurge ...... 165 79.12Connect ...... 165 79.13Cope ...... 165 79.13.1 Visas & Permits ...... 165 79.14Money safety ...... 165 79.15Go next ...... 165

80 167 80.1 Get in ...... 167 80.2 Get around ...... 167 80.3 See ...... 167 80.4 Do ...... 169 80.5 Buy ...... 169 80.6 Eat ...... 169 80.7 Sleep ...... 169 80.8 Go next ...... 170

81 Matin Abad 171 81.1 Get in ...... 171 81.2 Get around ...... 171 81.3 See ...... 171 81.3.1 ...... 171 81.3.2 and Villages ...... 171 81.3.3 Kashan ...... 171 81.3.4 ...... 171 81.3.5 Karkas Village ...... 171 81.3.6 Itineraries ...... 171 81.4 Do ...... 171 81.5 Eat ...... 172 81.6 Drink ...... 172 81.7 Go next ...... 172

82 Na'in 173 82.1 Understand ...... 173 CONTENTS xxxiii

82.2 Get in ...... 173 82.3 Get around ...... 174 82.4 See ...... 174 82.5 Do ...... 177 82.6 Buy ...... 177 82.7 Eat ...... 177 82.8 Drink ...... 177 82.9 Sleep ...... 177 82.10Connect ...... 178 82.11Go next ...... 178

83 179 83.1 Understand ...... 179 83.2 Get in ...... 179 83.3 Get around ...... 179 83.3.1 Vartun Hot Spring ...... 179 83.4 See ...... 180 83.4.1 Varzaneh Desert ...... 180 83.4.2 Gavkhooni Wetland, Black Mountain and Lake ...... 180 83.4.3 Jame of Varzaneh ...... 180 83.4.4 The Old ...... 181 83.4.5 Yusefi traditional house and ethnology museum ...... 181 83.4.6 Folklore attractions ...... 181 83.4.7 1000-year-old Ghoortan Citadel ...... 181 83.4.8 Dovecote (Pigeon houses) ...... 181 83.4.9 Camel-mill Complex ...... 182 83.4.10 Ox-well complex ...... 182 83.4.11 Water reservoirs and Wind-towers (Wind-catchers) ...... 182 83.4.12 Caravansary ...... 183 83.4.13 Other touristic spots ...... 183 83.5 Do ...... 183 83.6 Buy ...... 183 83.6.1 Varzaneh and other handicrafts ...... 183 83.6.2 Herbal and organic alimentary ...... 183 83.7 Eat ...... 183 83.8 Drink ...... 184 83.9 Sleep ...... 184 83.9.1 Budget ...... 184 83.10Connect ...... 184 83.11Go next ...... 184

84 (province) 185 xxxiv CONTENTS

84.1 Cities ...... 185 84.2 Other destinations ...... 185 84.3 Understand ...... 185 84.4 Talk ...... 186 84.5 Get in ...... 186 84.5.1 By plane ...... 186 84.5.2 By bus ...... 186 84.5.3 By car ...... 186 84.5.4 By Train ...... 186 84.6 Get around ...... 186 84.7 See ...... 186 84.7.1 Itineraries ...... 186 84.8 Do ...... 186 84.9 Eat ...... 186 84.10Drink ...... 186 84.11Sleep ...... 186 84.12Stay safe ...... 186 84.13Learn ...... 186 84.14Go next ...... 186

85 Bam 187 85.1 Get in ...... 187 85.2 Get around ...... 187 85.3 See ...... 187 85.4 Do ...... 187 85.5 Buy ...... 187 85.6 Eat ...... 187 85.7 Drink ...... 187 85.8 Sleep ...... 187 85.9 Go next ...... 187

86 Kerman 188 86.1 Understand ...... 188 86.2 Get in ...... 188 86.2.1 By plane ...... 188 86.2.2 By bus ...... 188 86.2.3 By car ...... 188 86.2.4 By Train ...... 188 86.3 Get around ...... 188 86.4 See ...... 188 86.5 Do ...... 189 86.6 Buy ...... 189 CONTENTS xxxv

86.7 Eat ...... 189 86.8 Drink ...... 189 86.9 Sleep ...... 190 86.10Learn ...... 190 86.11Stay safe ...... 190 86.11.1 Emergency services phone numbers ...... 190 86.12Go next ...... 190

87 Mahan 191 87.1 Get in ...... 191 87.2 Get around ...... 191 87.3 See ...... 191 87.4 Do ...... 192 87.5 Buy ...... 192 87.6 Eat ...... 192 87.7 Drink ...... 192 87.8 Sleep ...... 192 87.9 Connect ...... 192 87.10Go next ...... 192

88 193 88.1 Get in ...... 193 88.2 Get around ...... 193 88.3 See ...... 193 88.4 Do ...... 193 88.5 Buy ...... 193 88.6 Eat ...... 193 88.7 Drink ...... 194 88.8 Sleep ...... 194 88.9 Connect ...... 194 88.10Go next ...... 194

89 195 89.1 Get in ...... 195 89.2 Get around ...... 195 89.3 See ...... 195 89.4 Do ...... 195 89.5 Buy ...... 195 89.6 Eat ...... 195 89.7 Drink ...... 195 89.8 Sleep ...... 195 89.9 Connect ...... 195 xxxvi CONTENTS

89.10Go next ...... 195

90 Province 196 90.1 Understand ...... 196 90.1.1 Geography ...... 196 90.2 Cities ...... 196 90.3 See ...... 196 90.3.1 Itineraries ...... 197 90.4 Do ...... 197 90.5 Eat ...... 198 90.6 Drink ...... 198 90.7 Stay safe ...... 198 90.8 Go next ...... 198

91 (province) 199 91.1 Regions ...... 199 91.2 Cities ...... 199 91.3 Other destinations ...... 199 91.4 Understand ...... 199 91.4.1 Geography ...... 199 91.5 Talk ...... 199 91.6 Get in ...... 199 91.7 Get around ...... 199 91.8 See ...... 199 91.8.1 Itineraries ...... 199 91.9 Do ...... 199 91.10Eat ...... 199 91.11Drink ...... 199 91.12Stay safe ...... 199 91.13Go next ...... 199

92 Yazd 200 92.1 Get in ...... 200 92.1.1 By bus ...... 200 92.1.2 By plane ...... 200 92.2 Get around ...... 200 92.2.1 By foot ...... 200 92.2.2 By bus ...... 200 92.2.3 By taxi ...... 200 92.3 See ...... 201 92.4 Do ...... 202 92.5 Buy ...... 202 CONTENTS xxxvii

92.6 Eat ...... 202 92.7 Drink ...... 202 92.8 Sleep ...... 202 92.8.1 Budget ...... 202 92.8.2 Mid-range ...... 203 92.8.3 Outside of Yadz ...... 203 92.9 Go next ...... 203

93 Hormozgān 204 93.1 Regions ...... 204 93.2 Cities ...... 204 93.3 Other destinations ...... 204 93.4 Understand ...... 204 93.5 Talk ...... 204 93.6 Get in ...... 204 93.7 Get around ...... 204 93.8 See ...... 204 93.8.1 Itineraries ...... 204 93.9 Do ...... 204 93.10Eat ...... 204 93.11Drink ...... 204 93.12Stay safe ...... 204 93.13Go next ...... 204

94 205 94.1 Understand ...... 205 94.2 Get in ...... 205 94.2.1 By plane ...... 205 94.2.2 By train ...... 205 94.2.3 By car ...... 205 94.2.4 By bus ...... 205 94.2.5 By boat ...... 205 94.3 Get around ...... 205 94.4 See ...... 205 94.5 Do ...... 206 94.6 Learn ...... 206 94.7 Buy ...... 206 94.8 Eat ...... 206 94.8.1 Budget ...... 206 94.8.2 Mid-range ...... 206 94.8.3 Splurge ...... 206 94.9 Drink ...... 206 xxxviii CONTENTS

94.10Sleep ...... 206 94.10.1 Budget ...... 206 94.10.2 Mid-range ...... 206 94.10.3 Splurge ...... 206 94.11Connect ...... 206 94.12Go next ...... 206

95 207 95.1 Understand ...... 207 95.2 Get in ...... 207 95.2.1 By plane ...... 207 95.2.2 By car ...... 207 95.2.3 By bus ...... 207 95.2.4 By boat ...... 207 95.3 Get around ...... 208 95.4 See ...... 208 95.4.1 Popular tourist attractions ...... 208 95.5 Do ...... 208 95.5.1 The beaches ...... 208 95.6 Buy ...... 208 95.6.1 Malls ...... 209 95.7 Work ...... 209 95.8 Eat ...... 209 95.8.1 Budget ...... 209 95.8.2 Mid-range ...... 209 95.8.3 Splurge ...... 209 95.9 Drink ...... 209 95.10Sleep ...... 209 95.10.1 Budget ...... 210 95.10.2 Mid-range ...... 210 95.10.3 Splurge ...... 210 95.11Connect ...... 210 95.11.1 Phone ...... 210 95.11.2 Internet ...... 210 95.12Stay safe ...... 210 95.13Go next ...... 210

96 Qeshm 211 96.1 Get in ...... 211 96.2 Get around ...... 211 96.3 See ...... 211 96.4 Do ...... 211 CONTENTS xxxix

96.5 Buy ...... 211 96.6 Eat ...... 212 96.7 Drink ...... 212 96.8 Sleep ...... 212 96.9 Go next ...... 212

97 Hormozgān 213 97.1 Regions ...... 213 97.2 Cities ...... 213 97.3 Other destinations ...... 213 97.4 Understand ...... 213 97.5 Talk ...... 213 97.6 Get in ...... 213 97.7 Get around ...... 213 97.8 See ...... 213 97.8.1 Itineraries ...... 213 97.9 Do ...... 213 97.10Eat ...... 213 97.11Drink ...... 213 97.12Stay safe ...... 213 97.13Go next ...... 213 97.14Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses ...... 214 97.14.1 Text ...... 214 97.14.2 Images ...... 218 97.14.3 Content license ...... 223 Chapter 1

Iran

is a large country between the Gulf (ایران :Iran (Persian of Oman, the , and the . It was renamed Iran in the early 20th century; before that it was known as Persia. It is bordered by to the west, , Azerbaijan’s Naxcivan enclave, , and Azerbaijan to the northwest, Turkmenistan to the north- east, Afghanistan and Pakistan to the east. Iran can be considered part of the , and thus it is included as part of that region here. However, it is also very much a part of Central Asia; indeed the Persian Empire was the dominant power in that region for many centuries.

1.1 Regions Capital-Tehran:Azadi square

• Hamedan – one of the oldest cities in Iran

• Isfahan – former capital with stunning , great , and tree-lined boulevards. Most popu- lar tourist destination in the country. There’s a Per- sian saying, “Isfahan is half the world.”

• Mashad – greatest city of Eastern Iran with an im- portant mosque, the shrine of the Reza

• Qazvin – A former capital of the Persian Empire un- der the Safavids and a strategic location throughout the ages.

• Qom – one of the holiest cities in the Middle East, considered the Jewel of Iran

• Shiraz – a former capital, home of famous Persian 1.2 Cities poets such as Hafiz and Sa'di; known for gardens, especially . Very close to the famous ruins of . Below is a list of nine of the most notable cities: • Tabriz – a former capital with great historical • Tehran – the vibrant capital, a beautiful city that suf- bazaar, provincial capital in Western Iran; it’s been fers horrendous traffic and air pollution suggested by some that this is the site of the Biblical “Garden of Eden”

1 2 CHAPTER 1. IRAN

1.4 Understand

Iran, the wellspring of one of the world’s great civiliza- tions, is a country of striking natural beauty and gorgeous tiled mosques. Its landscape is incredibly varied. Its re- cent history has been tumultuous.

1.4.1 People

Humans have inhabited the area that makes up modern Yazd Iran since the Stone Age. There are paintings in Dusheh cave that date back to 15,000 BC. The ancient arrived about 1500 BC, one branch of the great move- • Yazd – a remote desert city – circumstance in- ment of people that also brought northern and most fluenced special architectural themes where water of their modern populations. The name Iran is streams run in underground rooms in houses and from the same root as “” which, until Hitler per- wind-towers to keep them cool. verted it, was just an ancient name for those arriving peoples. Persian (natively known as Farsi) is an Indo- European language; ancient Persian was related to San- 1.3 Other destinations skrit, ancient Greek, and all the others in that family. Per- sians are ethnically and linguistically unrelated to their neighbours on the west, the Arabs and Turks. • Persepolis Impressive ruins of a vast city-like com- Iran has many people other than ethnic Persians. The plex built over 2,500 years ago, near the modern City northwestern region, Iranian Azerbaijan, is largely popu- of Shiraz. It was set on fire by Alexander of Mace- lated by Azeris, who are ethnically Persian but linguisti- don and further ruined by Arabs. Called Takhte- cally related to Turks. The province of West Azerbaijan Jamshid in Persian, Persepolis is the symbol of Ira- is both Azeri and Kurd. predominate in parts of nian nationality. the west and northwest and Baluchis in parts of the south- east. There are also Armenians, Arabs, and last but not • Kish Island, a free trade zone in the Persian Gulf, it least Jews, who have been living in Iran peacefully for is regarded as a consumer’s 'paradise', with numer- years. ous malls, shopping centres, tourist attractions, and There are also two substantial communities of people of resort hotels. Iranian descent in India and Pakistan - Parsis who have been there for over 1,000 years, and Iranis who arrived in • , is Iran’s largest and the Persian Gulf’s the 19th and 20th centuries - both Zoroastrians who fled largest island. Qeshm island is famous for its wide religious persecution in Iran. range of ecotourist attractions such as the Hara ma- rine forests. According to environmentalists, about 1.5% of the world birds and 25% of Iran’s native 1.4.2 History birds annually migrate to Hara forests which is the first national geo park. Persia has always exerted a large cultural influence on its neighbors, especially Afghanistan and Central Asia. Per- sian influence can be seen in the art, architecture and lan- • , or Shush located 200 km North of Ahvaz, was guages of much of Central Asia. Iran’s most ancient city. The of Chughaz- anbil, ’s , the Jewish prophet Throughout history, Persia has generally been an em- Daniel’s temple and Artaxerxer II 's palace are pire, one whose fortunes varied enormously. During the among the historical sites. , Persia controlled most of what we now call the Middle East, and after Cyrus the Great’s con- quest of Ionia, Persia came close to conquering • Dizin is one of the highest ski resorts in the world in the Greco-Persian Wars of 499-449 BC. In 331 BC, located just two hours north of Tehran. Great pow- Alexander conquered (among other things) the entire Per- der snow, cheap prices and few international visitors sian Empire. Sassanid rule from 205 AD to 651 AD is makes this is a great place for a ski holiday. considered to be the most influential period of ancient Iran. In 651 AD, immediately after the death of Muham- • Pasargad, the first capital of the Achaemenid Em- mad, the brutal conquest of Persia by the Arabs brought pire, and home to the Tomb of Cyrus. an end to the . Persian and other lan- 1.4. UNDERSTAND 3 guages of the region are still written with the Arabic al- to extend diplomatic recognition to and helped phabet. In 1221 AD, Persia was overrun by the Genghis prevent Iranian nationalisation of the Anglo-Persian Oil Khan and the . Marco Polo passed through later Company. On the other hand, he was quite capable of in that century, learned Persian, and wrote extensively of putting Iranian interests before Western ones, and he was the region. Tamerlane conquered Persia in 1383, and af- one of the key players in creating OPEC. ter a revolt in 1387, killed hundreds of thousands of peo- While in some ways progressive, the was also very ple and built a tower with their skulls. much the oriental despot. When the Soviets left North- The re-united Persia as an independent western Iran after the war, they left behind something that state in 1501, established Shi'a as the official re- claimed to be an independent communist government of ligion, and ushered in a golden age of Persian culture. Azerbaijan. The first major conflict of the Cold War The dynasty was overthrown in 1736 by , the came as the Shah, advised by the CIA, brought in troops last great Asian conqueror, who expanded the Empire to who crushed that government and the communist party again include Afghanistan and much of India. His short- (Tudeh in Persian). Throughout his reign, his Savak se- lived dynasty and its successor, the led by cret police stomped hard on any opposition. His regime Karim Khan Zand, lasted until 1795. The defeat of Lotf was also massively corrupt, with his relatives and various Khan by the Qajar armies, brought in a new dynasty, others getting hugely rich while much of the country was the Qajars, who ruled from 1795-1925. While many of very poor. On the other hand, he did build infrastructure the historic buildings in Iran are from this period, this era and start various projects to benefit the poor, including a is considered to be one of decline for Iran, as the rulers program that sent new university graduates into the coun- were more interested in building their collections of art tryside as teachers. and jewels and succumbed to heavy pressure from foreign In theory, Iran under the Shah was a constitutional monar- powers, notably Britain and Russia who jointly occupied chy. Mohammed Mosaddeq became Prime Minister in Iran during World War I. In 1906, Qajar rule became a 1951 and instituted reforms that included nationalizing constitutional monarchy and the Majlis (Persian for par- the oil companies and a land reform program. He was liament) was established. overthrown in a 1953 coup backed by the CIA, the British (who had large oil interests at stake), and the Shah. The The last dynasty Shah and the new Prime Minister reversed the oil na- tionalization, but continued with a land reform program. In 1925, a military coup by established a new However, as well as giving land to the peasants, it worked “Pahlavi” dynasty, named for the most ancient Persian dy- out that the Shah’s family and others with connections got nasty around 500 BC. His rule was quite nationalistic; he a lot. The Ayatollah Khomeni went into exile at this time, changed the country’s name from Persia to Iran, and built originally because of his objections to land reform taking a strong military. It was also quite authoritarian; he built land from the mosques. In 1971, the Shah organized an a powerful secret police and a propaganda apparatus, and expensive celebration of the 2,500th anniversary of the did not hesitate to crush dissent. He also made consider- Persian Empire at Persepolis. The extravagant party re- able efforts toward modernization, and came into conflict sulted in harsh criticism and his popularity ratings never with conservatives over some of it. When World War II recovered. came, he refused Allied demands for guarantees that Iran In 1979, the Shah was overthrown and went into exile, would resist if German forces got that far. Iran was then dying a year later. The revolution involved many groups invaded by Anglo-Indian forces from the South and Rus- - Tudeh, Mosaddeq-style secular reformers, communists, sians from the North, and a railway built (largely by US and various Islamic factions - but came to be led and dom- Army engineers) to bring supplies from the Persian Gulf inated by a conservative Islamic faction under Ayatollah across Iran to beleaguered Russia. Reza Shah went off Khomeni. Partly in reaction to the Shah’s policies, they to exile in South Africa, abdicating on the steps of the were also strongly anti-Western and in particular anti- aircraft in favour of his son. American. His son, Mohammad Reza Shah, continued his father’s Religious conservatives subsequently crushed Westerni- nationalistic, authoritarian and modernising tendencies. sation and also any liberal/left-wing influences. Iranian As Iranian ruler he couldn't choose Britain or Russia as student protesters seized the US Embassy in Tehran on allies. Being pro-German had not worked out well for 4 November 1979 and held hostages for 444 days - until his father and wasn't strong enough. That left the 20 January 1981. Noticing the upheaval in Iran, Saddam Americans, and he became one of America’s most impor- Hussein seized Iranian oil fields in the south of the coun- tant allies in the region, seen as a “bulwark against Com- try and from 1980 to 1988, Iran fought a bloody, indeci- munism”, a constitutional monarch, in some ways a pro- sive war with Iraq and in the end, the borders were turned gressive ruler modernising, sometimes comparing him- back to their pre-war locations. self to Mustafa Kemal Atatürk who led Turkey’s mod- ernisation - and a protector of US and other Western in- terests. He was one of very few Middle Eastern rulers 4 CHAPTER 1. IRAN

Current issues faiths also exist in smaller numbers, the most notable be- ing , Christianity, and Judaism, all three Key current issues affecting the country include the pace of which are recognized as minority religions by the Ira- of accepting outside modernising influences and recon- nian constitution, and each of these are guaranteed rep- ciliation between clerical control of the regime and popu- resentation in parliament. Despite Iran being an Islamic lar government participation and widespread demands for republic, fire temples, churches, and synagogues continue reform. Inflation and unemployment (particularly among to operate legally in the country. Most Iranian Christians youth) are major economic challenges. News about Iran follow Eastern Orthodoxy, and are of Armenian ethnic- in world media are dominated by the nuclear program, ity. Iran also has the largest Jewish population in the Mid- but the average traveller is unlikely to be much affected dle East outside Israel. While there are also a significant by it. Some sanctions however have an effect on the gen- number of Baha'is in Iran, they are not recognized by the eral population and hence travellers. constitution and are instead branded as heretics of Islam, meaning that they continue to be persecuted to this day in spite of being Iran’s numerically largest non-Muslim 1.4.3 Religion religion.

1.4.4 Climate

Iran has a diverse climate. In the northwest, winters are cold with heavy snowfall and subzero temperatures dur- ing December and January. Spring and fall are relatively mild, while summers are dry and hot. In the south, win- ters are mild and the summers are very hot, having aver- age daily temperatures in July exceeding 38° C (100° F) and can hit 50° C in parts of the desert. On the Khuzestan plain, summer heat is accompanied by high humidity. In general, Iran has an arid climate in which most of the Mashhad is a destination of Shia pilgrims to Iran. relatively scant annual precipitation falls from October to April. In most of the country, yearly precipitation aver- The main divisions of Islam are Shi'a and Sunni. The ages 25cm or less. The major exceptions are the higher split goes back to a time just after the Prophet’s death; mountain valleys of the Zagros and the Caspian coastal would the movement be controlled by some of his lead- plain, where precipitation averages at least 50 cm an- ing followers (Sunni), or by his family, in particular by his nually. In the western part of the Caspian, rainfall ex- son-in-law Ali (Shi'a)? (Shi'a orignally comes from “shiat ceeds 100cm annually and is distributed relatively evenly Ali”, i.e. the faction/party of Ali) There was a long, com- throughout the year. plex and bloody struggle over this. Today, Iran is the only major country that is predominantly and officially Shi'a, though there are Shi'a minorities elsewhere and a Sunni 1.4.5 Landscape minority in Iran. The Iranian government supports the Shi'a Hezbollah movement further west, and is therefore accused by America of fomenting terrorism. One of the major events of Shi'a religious life is the Day of on the 10th of the month of Moharram; “ashura” means “10th”. It commemorates the death of Ali’s son Hussein at the Battle of Karbala in 61 AH (680 AD). This is not a joyful celebration, but a very sober day of atonement. Travelers should not play music or act remarkably cheerful in public at this time. Traditional activities include parades in which people do 'matham' which is a way of remembering Imam Hussein who was martyred along with all his half brother, cousins, friends, and two young sons. While is without a doubt the dominant religion (5,610 m) northeast of Tehran in Iran, there are several religious minorities. in Iran is mainly practiced by ethnic minorities such as Rugged, mountainous rim; high, central basin with the Arabs, Kurds, Balushis, and . Non-Islamic , mountains; small, discontinuous plains along 1.5. GET IN 5 both coasts. The highest point is Mount Damavand To apply and get your visa you must contact an approved (5,610 m). Iranian travel agent. After receiving your personal data, Desert: Two great deserts extend over much of central they apply to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Your visa Iran: the Dasht-e Lut is covered largely with sand and will then be authorised by the MFA and faxed to the Ira- rocks, and the Dasht-e Kavir is covered mainly with salt. nian Consulate near you. Your travel agent gives you a Both deserts are inhospitable and virtually uninhabited. visa authorisation number with which you can refer to the Mountain: The Zagros range stretches from the border consulate to get your visa. The visa authorisation number, with the Republic of Armenia in the north-west to the however, is valid only in the consulate you have asked them your visa to be issued in. The number they give you Persian Gulf, and then eastward into Baluchistan. Za- gros is extremely hard, difficult to access, and populated is just an “authorisation”. This reference number means that your visa has been authorised and approved by the largely by pastoral nomads. The Alborz mountain range, narrower than the Zagros, runs along the southern shore Ministry of Foreign Affairs but is not the visa itself. of the Caspian to meet the border ranges of Khorasan to Depending on your nationality, you may be required to the east. present at the Iranian consulate in your country to have Forest: Approximately 11% of Iran is forested, most ex- your fingerprints taken. British and American passport tensively in the Caspian region. Here one finds the broad- holders will be fingerprinted upon arrival. leafed, vigorous deciduous trees, usually oak, beech, lin- After your travel agent tells you your visa authorisation den, elm, , ash, and hornbeam, as well as a few number you should first get a visa application form from broad-leafed evergreens. Thorny shrubs and fern also the consulate and follow the requirements of the applica- abound.The narrow Caspian coastal plain, in contrast, is tion form (you may either personally go to the consulate covered with rich brown forest soil. to get the application forms or, if the service available, download it from the web site of the Iranian embassy in your country). Then, you should refer to the consulate to lodge your passports and application forms with the visa 1.5 Get in number they gave you (it can be either a physical pres- ence or by post). Then it might take from 1-5 days for 1.5.1 Visa the consulate to issue your visa. You may also need to provide a letter of recommendation Nationals of the following countries Turkey, , from your embassy if you are applying outside your home Azerbaijan, , Bolivia, Egypt, and can travel country, a photocopy of your air tickets in and out of Iran to Iran and stay there without a visa from 15 to 90 days. and any student or press card. Nationals of the following countries can apply for a visa Normally, all tourist visas issued by Iranian consulates on arrival: Azerbaijan, Albania, Germany, Austria, Ar- have a “3-month” validity. The visa allows you to stay in menia, , Spain, Australia, Slovenia, Slovak, Iran for up to 30 days, (sometimes you can get the tourist United Arab Emirates, Indonesia, , , Ireland, visa up to 90 days), although the duration of your visa is at Bahrain, Brazil, Brunet, Belarus, Belgium, Bulgaria, the discretion of the Iranian Foreign Ministry. (Notice all Denmark, Russia, , Japan, Singapore, Swe- the tourist visa will be issued as a single entry, unless you den, Switzerland, Syria, , Oman, France, request the approval from Tehran) Note: as of May 2013, , , Kyrgyzstan, Qatar, Croatia, South tourist visas must be used within 14 days from issue, but Korea, North Korea, Colombia, Cuba, Kuwait, Geor- the maximum duration of your stay is still 30 days. This gia, Lebanon, Luxembourg, Poland, Malaysia, Hungary, change is related to presidential elections in June. Mongolia, Mexico, Norway, New Zealand, Venezuela, Vietnam, Netherlands, India, Yugoslavia, and Greece. Rarely, you may be asked to provide a letter from your employer or proof of funds. Visas are generally valid for three months that is you must enter Iran within three Main procedures months of issue. Depending on your nationality, issuing a visa may take 30 Iran tourist visa is issued for up to 30 days and extend- days or more. able. Must be obtained before travelling to Iran and valid There are reports that it is possible to get a visa in 10 to enter for 90 days from the issue date. Approved Ira- days in consulate, especially for German passport nian travel agents can apply and get visas for all foreign holders. nationals (except Israeli passport holders). The Iranian Foreign Ministry does not allow US passport holders to Types of visa: Entry, Transit, Business, Tourist and travel to Iran independently. US citizens are required to Journalist. Fee varies according to nationality of appli- travel on tours, either as part of a tour group, or a tailor cant, type of visa and the existing regulation between made individual tour. An exact itinerary, to which you countries. must adhere, is compulsory. 6 CHAPTER 1. IRAN

A visa cannot be issued for passports which have a validity the Foreign Ministry in Tehran, and a business let- of less than 6 months. Exit permits required by all (often ter. Business visas are extendable once, sometimes included with visa). twice up to two weeks each without difficulty. One extension of one month may also be possible in some • Transit visas have a maximum of 10 days. cases.

Transit visas are usually easier to get than tourist visas Visitors from the Persian Gulf States need no visa to en- (usually for one or two weeks) and very useful for people ter Iran. These states are: Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman, Saudi travelling between Europe and South Asia. Various travel Arabia and the UAE. People from the Former Yugoslav agents inside Iran help you obtain visas, often through Republic of Macedonia and Turkey can get a three-month their home pages. tourist visa on arrival. People from Japan can get a three- month tourist visa at an Iranian embassy with no diffi- You can get an extension for your transit visa usually valid culty. for five or ten days, inside Iran easily but once for the same number of days as the original visa. Places known to extend visas happily in Iran are Tehran, Mashhad, Tabriz, Esfahan, Shiraz, Kerman and . For foreign drivers carrying cargo to Iran or other coun- The extension process is normally handled at provincial tries, it’s necessary to co-ordinate in advance with the police headquarters. Diplomatic Missions of the Islamic Republic of Iran.

Visa on arrival • Tourist visas require a passport, an application form, four passport-sized photos, and a special authorisa- A valid passport and a visa are required for the citizens of tion in the form of a reference number issued by the most countries for travel through Iran. Although in 2006, Foreign Ministry in Tehran. the rules had been eased, since the presidential elections protests in 2009, the unofficial policy became subject to Extending a tourist visa is very easy and can be done rapid changes. Theoretically speaking, the VOA (Visa in most cities. Some travel guides say not to do this in On Arrival) is still available and in 2015, Iranian con- Tehran as it is very time consuming. This is no longer sulates have started to sometimes explicitly recommend the case and the process of extending a visa in Tehran the visa-on-arrival procedure which seems to have be- can be done in just 1 hour (including offerings and come a time-consuming but otherwise hassle-free alter- being the object of curiosity in the office). Extending a native. Some foreign ministries still recommend to apply visa a second time requires the passport to be sent to a for a visa before travel. department in Tehran (no matter where you extend your visa from) and thus takes longer time than doing this Tourist visa on arrival (VOA) is issued 30-day tourist the first time. The tourist visa can be extended once or visas on arrival at the airports of Tehran, Mashhad, twice at most, each time you can get 15 days more. The Shiraz and Tabriz to people from about 58 countries, price of extending a visa is fixed rate 300,000 Iranian including Azerbaijan, Albania, Germany, Austria, Ar- Riyal. To extend your visa in Tehran, the first or second menia, Uzbekistan, Spain, Australia, Slovenia, Slovak, time, you should go to the Passport and Immigration United Arab Emirates, Indonesia, Ukraine, Italy, Ireland, office situated on Parvin Street, at the crossing with Bahrain, Brazil, Brunet, Belarus, Belgium, Bulgaria, 150 East street and 123 Khovat street, very close to Denmark, Russia, Romania, Japan, Singapore, Swe- metro station. Here is the OSM link : http: den, Switzerland, Syria, Saudi Arabia, Oman, France, //www.openstreetmap.org/?mlat=35.72822&mlon=51. Palestine, Cyprus, Kyrgyzstan, Qatar, Croatia, South 53174#map=17/35.72822/51.53174&layers=N Korea, North Korea, Colombia, Cuba, Kuwait, Geor- gia, Lebanon, Luxembourg, Poland, Malaysia, Hungary, Although it has become easier to get a tourist visa in Mongolia, Mexico, Norway, New Zealand, Venezuela, recent years, whether the process takes one day or one Vietnam, Netherlands, India, Yugoslavia, and Greece. month depends largely on your nationality and the staff Tourist visa on arrival can be extended by 15 more days. of the embassy you are applying to. Your best bet is to Citizens of the USA, UK, Canada, Somali, , apply to the Iranian embassy in your own country at least Jordan, Afghanistan and Pakistan cannot obtain visa upon three months before your departure, but it is possible to their arrival in airports, and they are required to have the obtain one while travelling in other countries, with vary- visa stamped in their passport in advance. Instant visa is ing degrees of difficulty. Women need to make sure they obtainable for tourists from the above-mentioned coun- are wearing the or a head scarf in their submitted tries and it does not apply to those who hold official pass- passport-sized photos. ports as well as businessmen and journalists.There is no restriction for foreign tourists to obtain a visa upon their • Business visas require a passport, an application arrival at Iranian airports several times within a year. The form, 4 passport-sized photos, a special authorisa- VOA is Convenient but relatively risky as you might be tion in the form of a reference number issued by denied entry. 1.5. GET IN 7

The visa costs US$50 (60€ for Europeans). You will Dubai has scheduled flights to many Iranian cities, in- receive the forms on arrival. You are advised to bring cluding Tehran, Shiraz, Isfahan, Kerman, Lar, Mashhad, passport photos with you. However, in many cases they Tabriz, Kish Island, , Bushher, Zahedan, are not collected. You are also advised to bring proof of Kermanshah, Chah Bahar and is therefore worth consid- health insurance which may or may not be enforced. ering travelling to Iran from. Flights are operated by Iran Your bags probably will not be searched for salacious Air, Emirates (for Tehran), , Ma- material, but if any is found, it will be confiscated and han Air and other Iranian companies. Fares are relatively will complicate your arrival. Don't try to bring in any cheap on Iranian carriers, ranging from US$100-250 for a return trip depending on your destination and time of magazines or books that might offend strict Islamic sen- sibilities or criticise the government. booking. As a notable exception, nationals of all countries includ- and connect Tehran with some of ing Americans are allowed to travel to free economic the major European cities as well as destinations in zones of Kish, Qeshm and without a visa for Asia and Middle East. European companies landing in stays of 14 days or less. Kish and Qeshm are easily acces- Tehran include Lufthansa, KLM, Alitalia, Turkish Air- sible from Dubai. See the Kish Island article for details. lines, Austrian Airlines, Aeroflot and Middle-Eastern air- lines: Saudi Arabian Airlines, Emirates, and Etihad. So finding a flight to Iran should not be hard. 1.5.2 By plane Connections are also easily available via Manama, Bahrain using Gulf Air (but has stopped recently). Addi- tionally, Qatar airlines offers several flights to Iran and provides non-stop service to Doha from to many US cities. Low-cost carriers (LCC) also operate flights to Tehran or other cities in Iran.

• Pegasus Airlines has flights to Tehran via Istanbul.

• Air Arabia has flights to Tehran, Mashhad and Shiraz via Sharjah.

• Jazeera Airways has flights to Mashhad via Kuwait.

Imam Khomeini International Airport • Turkish Airlines has flights to Tehran, Kermanshah, Tabriz, Mashhad, Isfahan and Shiraz via Istanbul.

Air Asia's flights to Tehran via Kuala Lumpur were sus- pended in October 2012. Note that if not staying in Tehran and planning to get to any city other than Tehran upon your arrival, you would have to change airports, from Imam Khomeini to Mehrabad, 40 km away, to get to your domestic flight. Allow at least 3-4 hr between the flights. If going to Mashhad, you may be able to avoid the plane change in Iran using Turkish Airlines, Gulf Air, Kuwait Airways, Jazeera Airways, or Qatar Airways. If going to Shiraz, several flights from Persian Gulf States are available. For Mehrabad International Airport Tabriz, you can try travelling via Istanbul on Turkish Air- All international flights to Tehran land at the new Imam lines or via on IranAir. Khomeini International Airport based 37 km south- In spite of economic sanctions the majority of Iranian west of Tehran. Pilgrimage flights Saudi Arabia still based airlines did not have high level of incidents dur- fly from Mehrabad airport. There are 70 smaller re- ing recent years. However sanctions resulted in inability gional airports, for example those in Shiraz, Mashhad, to purchase new planes and the fleet of all airlines are and Isfahan, and these have daily flights to many interna- old. Among Iranian based airlines Iran Air, Mahan Air tional destinations. and Aseman Airlines have been completely safe with no 8 CHAPTER 1. IRAN

serious incidents during recent years. Due to safety is- travel advisories concerning entry, transit, and adjacent sues flying with other Iranian based airlines is not recom- border zones. Normal services to and from Syria may be mended. The service and flying skill of Iranian pilots are disrupted, suspended or cancelled without notice. fairly well known. Due to sanctions there are no direct flights at present from • The Syria service does not cross Iraq, stopping at Canada or the USA, but you could travel via either Europe Aleppo before crossing the Turkish border, head- or Persian Gulf States. Non-stop flights from Dubai ing to Lake Van and running along a similar route via JFK, IAD, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Houston or to the Istanbul service. This journey takes 54 hr (2 Toronto are good bets. Visitors from Australia or New nights travelling) leaving Damascus Monday morn- Zealand can consider travelling via Dubai or Abu Dhabi, ings (arriving Tehran Wednesday evening) and leav- or can use a combination of Iran Air and Malaysian Air- ing Tehran at the same time (Monday) with corre- lines to get from any major city in Australia to Tehran, sponding arrival in Damascus (Wednesday evening). via Kuala Lumpur. Couchettes are available between Lake Van and Tehran, but need to be specially booked for the There are weekly flights from Sulamaniya in Iraqi Syrian leg between Damascus and Lake Van other- Kurdistan to Sanandaj and from Arbil to Urmia. wise reclining seats are available. The journey costs From Damascus in Syria there are charter flights to around US$90 for couchettes the whole way, and Tabriz, Tehran, Yazd, Isfahan, Mashhad. There are agen- US$60 for the reclining seat and couchette combi- cies in Seyyedeh-Zeinab district (a popular place with Ira- nation. nian pilgrimages) that can sell you empty seats of these charter flights for less than US$100. Afghanistan Caution. Any travel to Syria should be carefully ap- praised for risks due to current internal conflicts within • The Mashad- railway which is under construc- Syria and potential problems at border crossing points. tion right now is completed until the city of Khaf Please refer to the article on Syria and current consular near the Afghanistan border. The cheap daily ser- travel advisories concerning entry, transit, and adjacent vice from Tehran to Khaf is about US$5. border zones. Normal services to and from Syria may be disrupted, suspended or cancelled without notice. Iraq

1.5.3 By train • The Khorramshar-Basra railway will be completed in a few months which will connect Iranian railways Turkey to Iraq. There will be special train routes for Iranians going as pilgrims to Najaf and Karbala. There is ATTENTION: All trains between Turkey and Iran are another project that will be completed later going cancelled by Iranian Railways from August 2015. until through Kermanshah to Khanaqin in Iraq. further notice due to security reasons. Pakistan • The Trans Asia Express runs weekly from Ankara, includes a ferry over Lake Van, crosses the Ira- • The Quetta-Zahedan line connects Pakistan and nian border then stops at Tabriz before arriving in Iran by rail. A train leaves every 1st and 15th of each Tehran. The journey takes 69 hr (3 nights travel- month from Quetta and the journey takes 11 hr and ling). Services leave Ankara Tuesday evening (ar- costs about €8. In opposite direction the train leaves riving Friday evening) and Tehran Monday evening every 3rd and 17th of each month from Zahedan. (arriving Saturday evening). The train includes couchettes and a dining car. (Expect up to 10 hours In June 2009 a Bam-Zahedan link was completed, which delay) connected Zahedan to rest of Iranian railway network. However there is no passenger train between Bam and • The Tabriz-Van service (different from Istanbul Zahedan presently, so you have to take a bus or taxi. service) is a weekly train between Van and Tabriz.

Azerbaijan Syria • The -Tabriz service connects Caution. Any travel to Syria should be carefully ap- Nakhchivan_(city) with Tabriz and crosses praised for risks do to current internal conflicts within from the Jolfa border. The route used to be a part Syria and potential problems at border crossing points, of Tehran-Moscow railway line which is closed please refer to the article on Syria and current consular right now due to Azerbaijan-Armenia conflicts. 1.5. GET IN 9

• There is a railway from Baku to the border city of way ticket between Istanbul or Ankara and Tehran costs Astara. From there you can walk through the border US$35.00. to Iran. The railway is going to be joined to Tehran via Rasht and Zanjan. • Dogubeyazit/Bazergan This Turkey/Iran border crossing is easily (and fast) done by public transport. Turkmenistan Take a bus to Dogubeyazit and a frequent minibus (c. TRY5, 15 min) to the border. Cross the bor- • There is a daily service between Mashad and der stretch per pedes, take the customs taxi (give border every day. The train does not go fur- the driver some 1,000 rials bakschis) to the next vil- ther because of the gauge changes. At the other side lage and take a taxi (US$3-4) to the bus terminal of the border there is train to and Ashgabat. in Bazergan. There could also be buses to Bazergan, but the taxi drivers approaching you at the border are • Another railway from Gorgan is currently built up not the right people to ask for that. From there you to the Inche Borun border which will continue to can easily get buses to major destinations in Iran. Turkmenistan and Kazakhstan. Check the security situation in the region, due to the unsolved PKK conflict. Make sure you get a clear idea about exchange rates if you want to change 1.5.4 By car Turkish lira or rials as the official bank at the border does not exchange these currencies and you have to Many people drive a car to Iran via Turkey. deal with the plentiful black market. This requires a Carnet de Passage unless you wish to pay import duty. A Carnet can be acquired from your lo- • There are also buses from Van to Urmia crossing cal drivers association (such as the RAC in the UK). An from the Esendere-Sero border. The buses cost €13 international driver’s license is highly recommend with and takes more than 6h to finish the 300km route. translation into Persian very beneficial. That’s because of poor roads on the Turkish side and also the many checkpoints on the Turkish side (more than 5) because of the P.K.K. insurrection. 1.5.5 By bus

Armenia • You can also take mini buses to the town of Yük- sekova near the border and ask for taxis to bring you From Armenia there are daily, modern buses from to the border. Cross the border check point on your Yerevan to Tabriz and even further to Teheran. Other- own since the taxis won't cross into Iran. wise the only Iran/Armenia land border at Nuduz/Agarak is very badly served by public transport. On the Arme- nian side you can get as far as Meghri by one Marschrutka Pakistan a day from Yerevan. In both directions the Marshrutka leaves quiet early in the morning. Kapan and Karajan are You can also (depending on the political situation) enter more frequently served by marschrutkas but it is a long from Pakistan via the border crossing between (on and mountainous (and therefore expensive) stretch to the the Pakistani side) and Zahedan (on the Iranian side) as border from there. From Meghri it is around 8 km to long as you have a valid visa for Iran. You can NOT get the border and hitching or a taxi is the only option. On a visa on the border. Overnight buses leave from Quetta the Iranian side the closest puplic transport can be found arriving in Taftan in the early morning, from there you around 50 km to the west in Jolfa, so a taxi for around can either hire a taxi to the border or walk a couple of US$10-15 is the again only commercial choice. Expect kilometres. Once across the border (which can take some to be asked a lot for all taxi rides, so hard bargaining is time on the Iranian side, you need to organise transport essential. Make clear, or at least pretending that you have to Zahedan (the local town) where buses depart for des- other choices may assist you to get fairer prices. tinations in Eastern Iran such as Bam, Kerman and Yazd. See the Istanbul to New Delhi over land 3.9 Iran-Pakistan The border is not busy at all, so when hitching you have to border, for more details on the crossing. mainly stick with the truck drivers and Russian or Persian helps a lot here. Consider for yourself whether this is a safe option. Iraq

Turkey There are daily buses from Arbil to Urmia, also there are daily buses from Sanandaj and Kermanshah to Su- You can find Seir-o-Safar agencies in Istanbul, Antalya laymaniyah. From Tehran, there are also buses to and Ankara to buy cheap bus tickets for Tehran. A one- Sulaymaniyah and Arbil. 10 CHAPTER 1. IRAN

Afghanistan 1.6 Get around

There are daily buses between Herat and Mashad. The buses go through Dogharoun Border. The road has been Iranian transport is of high quality, and is very affordable. built by Iran and is reported safe. There are few places the very cheap buses don't travel to, the train network is limited but comfortable and reason- ably priced and travel by air is not expensive. The ticket Turkmenistan prices are always fixed and you don't have benefits of early bookings. A bus service also runs between Ashgabat and Mashhad.

1.5.6 By boat

It is not possible to get a Visa On Arrival if arriving by 1.6.1 By plane boat. Therefore if you wish to enter Iran by this method you must get a visa in advance. For anyone on a tight deadline, affordable domestic air There are some scheduled services from Baku to Bandar services are a blessing. The major national carrier Iran Anzali on the Caspian Sea and from cities on the Persian Air, and its semi-private competitors such as Iran Ase- Gulf to cities on the Iranian coast. They are usually of man Airlines - Aseman meaning “sky” in Persian, Ma- low quality. han Air and link Tehran with most regional capitals and offer inter-regional flights for no more than From UAE US$60. Their services are frequent, reliable and are definitely Starting in late 2007 and 2008; high quality semi- worth considering to skip the large distances within Iran. luxurious ferry service started between Kish Island and Planes are aging, and maintenance and safety procedures Abu Dhabi and Dubai. This service is of nominal fee are sometimes well below western standards, but it still (@ US$50) and the journey across one of the busiest remains the safest way to get around Iran, given the huge stretches of water is sure to entertain. It is not currently death toll on the roads. known what the Customs and Entry Visa process is like Tupolev Tu-154 and other Russian planes aren't used by using this service however as the boats do not enter via some carriers and they change with MD82 or 83. How- the airport. While the entry/exit process at the airport is ever, the odds are you will board a Shah-era B727 or fairly well established, it is unknown if the process is as some more recent Fokker, ATR or even Airbus A310 if well managed when entering via the docks. It is likely you're lucky. Busy domestic routes are sometimes flown to be more chaotic and it is not known whether visas are by B747SP, and the extra boarding and run-up time are issued on the spot as is the case at the airport. worth the thrill of flying in one of the last of these short- There are ferries from [Dubai]] and Sharjah in the United ened Jumbos still operated in the world. Saha Air, an- Arab Emirates to Bandar Abbas. other internal Iranian airline, is also the last operator of the Boeing 707 in scheduled commercial passenger ser- vice. If you insist on flying, try getting some of the new From Qatar planes leased from Russia. From Qatar to Bushehr. Tickets can be bought at airports or travel agents dotted through the most major cities. Book early during the summer months of August and September since finding From Bahrain seats at short notice is virtually impossible. It is possible to pay extra to get onto a booked flight by bribing some- From Kuwait one or paying them to take their seat on the plane. Some flights will auction off the last few seats to the highest Ferries from Kuwait are operated by Valfajr Shipping bidder. For westerners, the conversion makes it easy to Company. Rates depend on your exact journey, but as outbid everyone. of June 2011, Bandar Abbas-Sharjah (UAE) was sold for 795,000 rials (about US$80). Boats run twice a You can also find domestic tickets in some Iran Air offices week (Monday & Wednesday), departing Bandar Abbas abroad, such as in Dubai. Expect to pay a little more due around 8PM. Tickets can be bought from one of the agen- to the exchange rate applied. Domestic tickets for other cies listed on the website. Expect to be the only non- companies must be bought inside Iran. Iranian on board. Plan loosely around the boat trip, as Note if you are from a “western” country, some agencies schedules are not strictly enforced. are reluctant to let you book a domestic flight. 1.6. GET AROUND 11

1.6.2 By bus least a couple of days in advance during the peak domestic holiday months. First class tickets cost roughly twice the The Iranian domestic bus network is extensive and comparable bus fare. For buying train tickets online you thanks to the low cost of fuel, very cheap. In fact the only can visit this page:raja ticket drawback is speed: the government has limited buses to Known as a “ghatar” in Persian; trains are probably the 80 km/h to combat lead-footed bus drivers so long haul cheapest, safest, most reliable and easiest way to travel trips such as Shiraz to Mashhad can take up to 20 hours. around the country. As an added benefit; you'll get to There is little difference between the various bus com- meet the people, sample food and see other tourists. You panies, and most offer two classes: 'lux' or 'Mercedes’ also avoid all the checkpoints you will encounter driving (2nd class) and 'super' or 'Volvo' (1st class). First class on the road. Trains are frequently delayed so leave plenty buses are air-conditioned and you will be provided with a of time between destinations. small snack during your trip, while second class services are more frequent. Given the affordability of first class tickets (for example rials 70,000 from Esfehan to Shi- By Metro (subway) raz), there’s little financial incentive to opt for the second class services, especially in summer. Tehran has 4 underground rail lines. You can buy tickets from the bus terminals or ticket of- Line 1 (red) runs from north to south fices up to a week in advance, but you shouldn't have a Line 2 (blue) runs west to east. problem finding a seat if you turn up to the terminal an hour or so before your intended departure time. Line 4 (yellow) runs from west to southeast. Most cities operate comprehensive local bus services, Line 5 (green) runs to the nearby city of . but given the low cost of taxis and the difficulties of read- For more info about lines you can visit this page :Tehran ing Persian-language signs (which, unlike road signs, do subway map not have English counterparts) and route numbers, they 1 way tickets cost 5,000 rials (500 Tomans) and a round are of little use to the casual travelers. If you're cash ticket costs 8,000 rials (800 Tomans). You can buy ticket strapped and brave enough to try, however, remember card( E-ticket) instead of paper ticket that can be used in that the buses are segregated. Men enter via the front both buses and Metro. or rear door and hand their ticket to the driver before tak- ing a seat in the front half of the bus. Women and chil- Mashhad has 1 underground line. It runs from Vakil dren should hand their ticket to the driver via the front Abad to Ghadir. doors (without actually getting on) before entering via Two further lines are to be added in the near future. the rear door to take a seat at the back. Tickets, usu- ally around 500 rials, are sold from booths near most bus stops. Private buses accept cash instead of tickets. There 1.6.4 By taxi is also rechargeable credit ticket cards accepted in buses and metro stations (in Tehran since 2012 paper tickets are Low fuel costs have made inter-city travel by taxi a great no longer accepted in buses). value option in Iran. When travelling between cities up to 250 km apart, you may be able to hire one of the shared savāri taxis that loiter around bus terminals and train sta- 1.6.3 By train tions. Savari taxis are faster than buses and Taxis will only leave when four paying passengers have been found, Raja Passenger Trains is the passenger rail system. Trav- so if you're in a hurry you can offer to pay for an extra elling by train through Iran is generally more comfortable seat. and faster than speed-limited buses. Sleeper berths in Official shared local taxis or Savari, also ply the major overnight trains are especially good value as they allow roads of most cities. Recently the taxis are turning into you to get a good night’s sleep while saving on a night’s yellow, also on busy routs there are green vans with a ca- accommodation. pacity of 11 passengers. They offer less fare for every The rail network is comprised of three main trunks. The passenger. They usually run straight lines between ma- first stretches east to west across the north of the country jor squares and landmarks, and their set rates between linking the Turkish and Turkmenistan borders via Tabriz, 2,000-10,000 rials are dictated by the local governments. Tehran and Mashhad. The second and third extend south Hailing one of these taxis is an art you'll soon master. of Tehran but split at Qom. One line connects to the Per- Stand on the side of the road with traffic flowing in your sian Gulf via Ahvaz and Arak, while the other traverses intended direction and flag down a passing cab. It will the country’s centre linking Kashan, Yazd and Kerman. slow down fractionally, giving you about one second to Tickets can be bought from train stations up to one month shout your destination--pick a major nearby landmark in- before the date of departure, and it is wise to book at stead of the full address--through the open passenger win- 12 CHAPTER 1. IRAN

dow. If the driver is interested, he'll slow down enough for you to negotiate the details or simply accepts your route. If you're in a hurry, you can rent the taxi privately. Just shout the destination followed by the phrase dar bast (lit- erally 'closed door') and the driver will almost be sure to stop. Negotiate the price before departure, but since you are paying for all the empty seats expect to pay four times the normal shared taxi fare. You can also rent these taxis by the hour to visit a number of sites, but you can expect to pay from 40,000-70,000 rials/hr, depending on your bargaining skills. Most of the taxis have “taximeters” but only 'closed door' green taxis use it. Fārsi is Iran’s national and official language

1.6.5 By car guage. Although Persian is written with a modified Ara- bic alphabet, the two languages are not related but Persian A large road network and low fuel costs have histori- does contain a very large number of Arabic loanwords cally made Iran an attractive country for exploring with but maybe with a different meaning, many of which form your own car. However a recent government fuel tax part of basic Persian vocabulary (See “Iranian National- on foreigners entering Iran by private car has somewhat ity” under “Respect” ). dimmed the allure. Many young Iranians in major cities, and almost certainly Foreigners arriving in Iran with their own car will need to those working in international travel agents and high-end have a Carnet de passage and a valid international drivers’ hotels will speak conversational English but basic Persian license. Petrol stations can be found on the outskirts of phrases will definitely come in handy, particularly in rural all cities and towns and in car-filled Iran, a mechanic is areas. never far away. Road signs are often double signed in English, but few Do not underestimate the sheer chaos of Iran’s traffic. other signs are. As an extra challenge, most Persian sig- The often ignored road rules state that you must drive on nage uses an ornate calligraphic script that bears little re- the right unless overtaking and give way to traffic com- semblance to its typed form. This can make comparing ing on to a roundabout. Drivers frequently top 160 km/h typed words in phrase books--such as 'bank' and 'hotel'- (100 mph) on intercity highways. Laws requiring car oc- -to signs on buildings quite difficult. However it is still cupants to wear seat belts for rear passengers are not al- worth memorising the Persian script for a few key words ways complied with. such as restaurant, guesthouse, and hotel (see relevant Be aware also that motorcycles are sometimes seen trans- sections below for the script). porting up to five people, without helmets. Be aware that Kurdish and Azeri languages are also spo- Avoid large rocks in the middle of highway. These are ken in areas of large Kurdish and Azeri populations. often placed there in an attempt to burst your tires. After- See also: Persian phrasebook ward, a passerby will offer to replace your tire for $US50. This is of a scam that occurs mostly at nighttime but has diminished due to aggressive policing. 1.8 See You can also rent a car, usually for $US20-50 a day. Insurance and legal liability may make you think twice 1.8.1 Ancient cities about renting a car, especially considering the fact that renting a car with a driver usually costs the same. • Hegmatane (or Ekbatana) - The capital of the an- People are not allowed to carry their pet even in their pri- cient . In modern-day Hamedan. vate car and will receive driving penalties if caught by the Police. • Persepolis - Probably the most important historical site in Iran. The capital of the Achaemenid (Persian) Empire built by Darius. Near Shiraz. 1.7 Talk • Pasargad (or ) - The initial capital of an Indo- the Persian Empire built by Cyrus the Great. Near ,(فارسی ,Persian (called fārsi in Persian European language, is Iran’s national and official lan- Shiraz. 1.8. SEE 13

• Mordechai and Esther in Hamedan.

• Saadi and famous Persian poets in Shiraz.

• "'Imam Reza'" an ornate shrine to the eighth of the Shiite (the only one buried in Iran) in Mashhad.

1.8.3 Museums

• Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art. Amassed by the former Shah and his wife who were Persepolis - - Fars avid and ostentatious collectors, the museums col- lection, conservatively valued at $2.5 billion dollars, is one of the most important modern and con- temporary art collections in the world. It includes collections from Pablo Picasso, Wassily Kandinsky, Andy Warhol, Marcel Duchamp, Francis Bacon, David Hockney and Jackson Pollock among many others. Much of it remains un-catalogued, officially because it is so numerous but also because it is Pol-e Dokhtar Bridge, Miyaneh, East Azerbijan currently taboo. No western works have been on display for many years although in late 2013 staff expressed hope that the authorities may grant • Susa - Built by Elamites an then adopted by permission for specific pieces to be displayed as Achaemenid (Persian) and Sasanid empires, it has part of a tourist drive. It remains to be seen. three layers of civilisation in it. Located in In the meantime art lovers can sigh as they leaf the modern-day town of Shush in the Khuzestan through a reference copy of some of the collection, province. available for viewing at reception. Nevertheless, the museum still warrants a visit for a rare opportunity • - A ziggurat built by Elamites. Near to explore contemporary Iranian art which although Shush. inventive and progressive in its execution, remains nonetheless true to established morals. • Na'in or '''Naeen''' or Naein is a small pre-Islamic city in central Iran with over 2000 years of history. It’s a small pattern of an ancient desert town. The 1.8.4 Palaces locals in Na’in still speak in ancient Zoroastrian di- alect.

• Sialk Mount (Tappeh Sialk) - More than 7,000 years old, this is world’s oldest ziggurat. In suburbs of Kashan.

•

1.8.2 Tombs of some famous people

• Cyrus the Great in Pasargad near Shiraz.

Falak-ol-Aflak castle, Khorramabad, Lorestan • Avicenna in Hamedan.

• Khayyam in Neyshaboor (near Mashhad). • Sadabad. A palace complex where Mohammad- Reza Shah and his family used to live. Some palaces • Prophet Daniel in Susa (Shush). converted to museums now. In Tehran. 14 CHAPTER 1. IRAN

• Falak-ol-aflak - Falak-ol-Aflak Castle is among the are found in the walls, having not only aesthetic most important structures built during the Sassanid value, but also acoustic. It is rich in naturalistic wall era. paintings by Reza Abbassi, the court painter of Shah Abbas I, and his pupils. There are floral, animal, and • Shamsolemare bird motifs.

• Forty Pillar Palace () literally: 1.8.6 Squares and Streets “Forty Columns”) is a pavilion in the middle of a park at the far end of a long pool, in Isfahan, Iran, • Naqsh-e Jahan Square also known as shah square built by Shah Abbas II to be used for his entertain- or imam square-1602. With two mosques and the ment and receptions. bazaar.It is an important historical site, and one of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites.The square is sur- rounded by buildings from the Safavid era.

1.8.7 Parks and Gardens

1.8.8 Armenian churches

• in Isfahan.

• Saint Thaddeus Monastery in .

1.9 Do

• (Meimand), , Shahr-e- Chehel Sotoon Palace Babak (Persian Gulf high way). Meymand (May- mand, Meimand, Maimand) is a very ancient vil- In this palace, Shah Abbas II and his successors would lage located nearby Shahr -e- Babak city in Kerman receive dignitaries and ambassadors, either on the terrace Province. Maymand is believed to be one human- or in one of the stately reception halls. ities earliest remaining places of habitation on the and dates back 12,000 years. It is The name, meaning “Forty Columns” in Persian, was in- still inhabited by around 150 people, mostly hos- spired by the twenty slender wooden columns supporting pitable elderly citizens who live in 410 houses hand the entrance pavilion, which, when reflected in the waters hewn into the rocks. 10,000 year old stone engrav- of the fountain, are said to appear to be forty. ings surround the village. 6,000 year old potteries relics reveal a long history of the village. Living con- 1.8.5 Palaces ditions in Maymand are harsh due to the aridity of the land and to high temperatures in summers and very cold winters. In 2005 Meymand was awarded the Melina Mercury International Prize for the safe- guarding and management of cultural landscapes.

1.9.1 Desert trekking and desert excur- sions

Ali Qapu Palace

• Ālī Qāpū (The Royal Palace) - Early 17th Cen- Moving sand dunes tury. It is forty-eight meters high and there are seven floors, each accessible by a difficult spiral staircase. Though the northern part of Iran is covered by dense rain In the sixth floor music room, deep circular niches forests called Shomal or the Jungles of Iran. The eastern 1.10. BUY 15 parts consists mostly of desert basins such as the Dasht-e 1.9.4 Swim Kavir, Iran’s largest desert, in the north-central portion of the country, and the Dasht-e Lut, in the east, as well as Iran has coastline along the Caspian Sea and the Persian some salt lakes. There is also the Central desert which as Gulf. A popular place for its beaches is Kish Island in the can be understood from its name is located in the central Persian Gulf that men can enjoy it all the year & women regions. This is because the mountain ranges are too high are limited to use only covered beaches. for rain clouds to reach these regions. There are a lot of activities that can be done in the desert 1.9.5 Itineraries areas including; desert tracking, camel riding, bicycle rid- ing and 4x4 driving excursions. We have one itinerary for a route that is entirely in Iran: In some parts of the deserts there are some camping sites available. The easiest budget priced desert tours can be • Mount Damavand Trek organised in Na'in and Kashan. There are also several for routes that pass through the country: 1.9.2 Festivals • • Norouz Eve, The beginning of Iranian • On the trail of Marco Polo and the start of the Spring. On the 20th or 21st of March. It is rooted in the Zoroastrian religion. • Istanbul to New Delhi over land

• Chahar-shanbe Suri (Wednesday festival) - On the last Wednesday before Noruz. People set up fires. 1.10 Buy The traditional festival involves jumping over the fire while saying a specific sentence. Nowadays it in- 1.10.1 Currency volves a lot of firecrackers Although the government .in Persian) (IRR) is the currency of Iran ﷼) is against it and police usually Disperse the young The rial people’s gathering!. Coins are issued in values of 50, 100, 250, 500, 1,000, 2,000, and 5,000 rials. Banknotes are produced in 500, 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000, 50,000, • Shab-e Yalda, The last night of Autumn, which is and 100,000 denominations and banknotes called “Iran the longest night of the year, is celebrated in Iran, Cheques” are produced in 500,000 and 1,000,000 de- and has a history from long ago (Mithraism age). nominations. Families has traditional gathering to commemuni- cate and eat the last remaining fresh fruits from sum- mer. They read traditional Persian poems or stories. 1.10.2 Toman

• Golabgiri, of Kashan city near Isfahan. During the Confusion with the currency is standard for a visitor ini- spring some people go there to obtain the local tially, not just because of the large numbers but because water. It has very nice smell and many use it in tra- of the shorthand routinely used. Prices of goods may be -in (تومان) ditional . verbally communicated or written in toman stead of in rial. One toman is equal to ten rials. There are no toman notes - prices are quoted as such just as a shortcut. If it is not obvious, be sure to clarify in which 1.9.3 Ski currency the price is quoted.

There are five ski piste around Tehran. They are at Dizin, Darbandsar, and . 1.10.3 Exchanging money

The longest one is the Dizin piste, this is north of Tehran ATMs and merchants in Iran generally do not accept for- and reachable during winter by using either Chalous Road eign (non-Iranian) cards due to the sanctions, so bring all or Road. the money you might need in cash, preferably in US dol- The more professional slope is at Shemshak and that is lars or Euros. the one used for national and international tournaments. Bills in good condition as well as large bills ($100 or The ski pistes near Tehran are all normally accessible by €100) tend to be preferred at currency exchange offices. road in around 1-2 hr. Small denominations can be useful for small purchases 16 CHAPTER 1. IRAN

before you get to an exchange office, although many ex- provides both ATM debit card and a cheque writing op- change shops will not exchange small bills. On arrival at tion. Another way to prevent having your money stolen, Tehran International Airport, the maximum amount that is going to the nearest bank and getting a gift card (Kart- They are exactly like ordinary .(کارت هدیه may be exchanged at night is limited to €50 per person. e Hadiyeh The best places to exchange money are the private ex- ATM debit cards, but once they get empty, they cannot change offices (sarāfi) scattered around most large cities be recharged. The two first ways are more recommended. and major tourist centres. Their rates are usually 20% A list of permitted Iranian banks can be found here. better than the official rate offered by the banks, they are Large Iranian banks, like Bank-e Melli-ye Iran (BMI), far quicker and don't require any paperwork, and unlike Bank -e- Sepah, Bank Mellat, Bank-e Saaderaat-e Iran their black market colleagues, they can be traced later on (BSI), Bank-e Paasaargad and Bank-e Saamaan (Saa- if something goes wrong. Exchange offices can be found maan Bank), and Beank-e Paarsiaan all have branches in major cities, their opening times are usually Sunday to outside the country that can be found at their websites. Thursday from 8 am to 4 pm. Note that most are closed You can open a bank account abroad before arrival. This on Fridays and on holidays. There is little point in risk- might be possible even in some European countries. You ing the use of black market moneychangers who loiter can find the addresses of these banks’ websites using fa- outside of major banks and only offer marginally better mous search engines; then you need to click the link to rates than the banks. the English section of their sites which is usually shown A list of licensed sarraafis of the whole country, in Per- using the word English or the abbreviation En. sian (Farsi), can be found here. This list includes phone numbers and addresses as well as license numbers and 1.10.4 Bazaars and bargaining dates. The most widely-accepted currencies are US dollar ($) While the shops offer a wide selection of quality goods, and euros (€). Other major currencies such as the Aus- local items can be bought in the many bazaars. Pur- tralian Dollar and Japanese Yen are accepted at many - chases include hand-carved, inlaid woodwork, painted but not all - money changers. Non-major currencies usu- and molded copper, , rugs, silks, leather goods, ally cannot be exchanged. US$100 and large euro un- mats, tablecloths, gold, silver, glass, and ceramics. There folded notes tend to attract the best exchange rate, and are restrictions on which items may be taken out of the you may be quoted lower rates or turned down for any country and many countries restrict the amount of goods old or ripped notes or small denomination notes. you can bring in due to sanctions. Foreign credit cards are only accepted by select stores Bargain ruthlessly when buying handcrafts, rugs or big with foreign bank accounts such as Persian rugs stores but ticket items and modestly when hailing private taxis. In they will almost always charge an additional fee for pay- most other aspects of life prices are fixed. ing by credit card rather than with cash. Most of these stores will be happy to forward you some cash on your credit card at the same time as your purchase. If you are 1.10.5 Tipping desperate for cash, you can also try asking these shops to extend you the same favour without buying a rug or Tipping is generally not expected, but locals will gen- souvenir, but expect to pay a fee of around 10%. erally round up the bill in taxis and add around 10% in Travellers’ cheques: Cashing travelers cheques can be restaurants. Porters and bellboys will expect 5,000 rials. hit-or-miss and it is advised not to rely on travelers A discreet gift of a few thousand tomāns may help grease cheques issued by American or European companies. the wheels of Iranian society and serve to thank an ex- traordinarily helpful local. Prepaid debit cards can be bought at Iranian banks and serve as a good alternative to carrying a large wad of cash around the country. Make sure that the card you buy 1.10.6 Foreigner surcharges has ATM withdrawal privileges and be aware of the daily withdrawal limit. The ATM network in Iran is subject to You won't be able to escape the government-sanctioned outages so make sure that you withdraw the entire balance dual pricing system that applies to accommodation and well before you leave the country. some tourist attractions in Iran; foreigners often pay up Bank-e Melli-ye Iran (National Bank of Iran) which is a to five times the price quoted to locals. However, prices government-owned bank in Iran, provides an ATM debit tend to be very reasonable by Western standards. card service (plastic magnetic card) for tourists who visit Iran. Tourists just need to head the nearest branch of this bank. Information on this service can be found here. 1.10.7 Budgeting Sepah Bank or Bank -e- Sepah is a governmental bank that has a current account service for foreigners which Due to an extremely volatile exchange rate and high infla- tion, the prices estimated by many guidebooks and travel 1.11. EAT 17 agencies are outdated immediately. to a dish. Examples include flavoured If you are prepared to stay in the cheapest guesthouses, with orange zest, young cherries and honey glazed , travel only by bus and eat only at fast food outlets or the broad- and heavy bāghli polo and kabābi, you can get by in Iran on a minimum of around laced with , and mint. 500,000 rials per day. If you want to eat a decent restaurant every now and then and stay in mid- range accommodation, a more realistic budget is around 1,000,000 rials. If you want to eat and sleep in luxury and fly between major sights, you can easily spend 3,000,000 rials per day.

1.11 Eat

Meal times in Iran vary considerably from those in Eu- rope and the US. can be served from 12PM-3PM. and dinner is often eaten after 8PM. These and other so- cial occasions in Iran are often long, drawn-out affairs conducted in a relatively relaxed tempo, often involving The ubiquitous Persian Kabab is often served with plain and , fruit and possibly nuts. As it is considered rude sometimes with special (yellow cake) rice called tah-chin. to refuse what is served, visitors should accept the items and its (چلو کباب) offered, even if they do not intend to consume them. The rice and dish chelo kabāb The importation and consumption of is strictly half-dozen variations are the most common (and often the banned throughout the majority of Iran, but is tolerated only) items on Iranian restaurant menus. A grilled skewer in a few rural and poorly regulated areas. Penalties are of meat is served on a bed of fluffy rice, and accompanied severe. Registered religious minorities, however, are al- by an array of condiments. You can add , grilled lowed to manufacture and consume small quantities of tomatoes and a sour known as somāgh to your rice, alcohol, but not to sell, export or import it. Pork and while some restaurants also provide a raw egg yolk. Raw pork products are forbidden and, like alcohol, their im- and fresh are used to clear your palate be- port is illegal, though in practice shops serving the Chris- tween mouthfuls. Variations in kabāb dishes come from tian community are allowed to sell pork with no major the they are served with. You will commonly see: issues. a kebab of - (كباب كوبيده) Kabāb koobideh • The good news for travellers is that is su- minced , shredded onion and . perb. A wide range of influences from Central Asia, the , Russia, Europe and the Middle East have cre- • -pieces of lamb some - (كباب برگ) ated a diverse, relatively healthy range of dishes that fo- Kabāb barg cus on fresh produce and aromatic . The bad news, times marinated in juice and shredded onion. however, is that Iranians prefer to eat at home, rather than a skewer of chicken - (جوجه كباب) in restaurants, so decent eateries are scarce and stick to a • Joojeh kabāb repetitive selection of dishes (mainly ). An invita- pieces sometimes marinated in lemon juice and saf- tion to an Iranian home for dinner will be a definite high- fron. light of your stay. When visiting an Iranian household for great for - (كباب ب ختیاِری) the first time or on a special occasion it is customary for • Kabāb bakhtiāri Iranians to bring a small gift. Flowers, sweets or pastries the indecisive eater, this is a skewer of alternating are popular gift choices. chicken and lamb pieces.

1.11.1 Traditional cuisine At home people most often eat rice with a thick .containing a modest amount of meat (خورشت ,khoresht) berenj) is the staple of Iranian food. There are dozens of khoresht variations such as the ,برنج) Fragrant rice Boiled and then steamed, it is often coloured with saffron sweet and sour fessenjān made from ground and or flavoured with a variety of spices. When served plain syrup, most popular ghormeh-sabzi is based The on fresh herbs, dried limes and kidney , .(چلو) as an accompaniment it is known as chelo two most common meat / chelo combinations are kebab flavoured with split-peas and often garnished with French .or rotisserie chicken fries (چلو کباب ,variations (chelo kabāb .are in themselves (آش ,Flavoured rice, known as polo, Hearty Iranian (āsh .(چلو مرغ ,chelo morgh) آش) is often served as a main course or as an accompaniment The most popular is the vegetarian āsh reshteh 18 CHAPTER 1. IRAN made from herbs, and thick , 1.11.5 Special needs (رشته and garnished with (which looks like yoghurt but is another thing) and fried . Given that most travellers are stuck eating kebabs for much of their trip, vegetarians will have a partic- is another pillar of Iranian food. It (نان ,Flat (nān ularly difficult time in Iran. Most snack shops sell is served at with herbs, cheese and a vari- سالاد ,and garden (sālād-e-fassl (فلافل) falafels ety of jams, or as an accompaniment to meals. -and greengrocers are common. Most āsh va (فصل is a dimpled variety cooked on a pebbled oven (سنگك) rieties are meat-free and filling, as are most varia- . is a thin and bland staple (لواش) while lavāsh -the Iranian take on the frit ,(کوکو) tions of kookoo tata.Also some restaurants make Spaghetti with Soya (Soy).You can find like Vegetarian (Pitzā or Cheese Pizza (Pitzā (پیتزا سبزیجات ,International cuisine Sabzijāt 1.11.2 ,or Mushroom Pizza (Pitzā Ghārch (پیتزا پنیر ,Panir almost everywhere and Margherita Pizza (پیتزا قارچ -There are several good international restaurants which of fer Chinese, Japanese, Italian and French food as well as in some restaurants which all are meat-free. The phrases vegetarian menus in Tehran and other major cities. man giaah-khaar hastam (I am vegetarian) and bedoon-e goosht (without meat) will come in handy. ,ḥalāl ,حلال) It’s a safe bet that most food in Iran is halal halaal) and will conform with as 1.11.3 Fast food and snacks specified in the Qur'an, the exceptions being some shops in districts with large Christian communities. However, Most food outlets in Iran are either kabābis or fast food those seeking a strict kosher diet may have to concentrate outlets serving a standard fare of burgers, sandwiches, fe- their efforts in the districts with higher numbers of Jew- A burger and a soft drink at ish inhabitants. If in Tehran look in areas such as older .(پیتزا) lafels or pizza a snack shop will fill you up at lunchtime for around IR parts in the south of the city, like Udlajan or the Yusef 40,000, while pizzas start at IR 50,000. Abad neighbourhood. Many (see Drink below) also serve traditional snacks and light meals. The most common of these is āb- a hot pot made from lamb, chickpeas 1.12 Drink (آبگوشت) gusht and dried limes that is also known as dizi, also the name of the dish in which its served. You will be given a bowl (the dizi) containing the ābgusht and another, smaller one. Drain the broth into the smaller bowl and eat it like a with the bread provided. Then pound the remaining meat and into a paste with the pestle provided and eat with even more bread, pieces raw onion and wads of fresh herbs.

1.11.4 Sweets and desserts

The never-ending demand for dentists in Iran lies testa- ment to the country’s obsession with sweets and pastries, .(شیرینی) known collectively as shirini Iranian baghlava tends to be harder and more crystalline than its Turkish equivalent while the noughat is an Isfahan speciality. is a rich (گز) called pistachio popular in Qom, and freshly-baked pas- tries are often taken as gifts to people’s houses. Lavāshak fruit leathers are delicious fruit leathers made from dried . Honey-saffron and pistachio are just two local flavours of -is a deliciously re (فالوده) , while fāloodeh freshing sorbet made from rosewater and noo- (chāi) is the national drink of Iran. dles made from starch, served with lashings of lemon is the national drink of Iran. It is (چای ,juice. Black Tea (chāi 1.13. SLEEP 19

served strong and with crystallised or cubed (ghand, 1.13 Sleep which is held artfully between the teeth while tea is (قند sipped through. You can try asking for milk in your tea, but expect nothing but strange looks or a big delay in re- are a favourite (چای خانه ,turn. Tea houses (chāi khāneh local haunt for men (and less commonly families) to drink tea and puff away on a water pipe. is not as popular as tea. Where (قهوه ,Coffee (ghahveh available, it is served Turkish style, French coffee or (نسكافه ,espresso. Imported instant coffee (nescāffe and instant Cappuccino are available also. Coffee shops (called “coffeeshop” in Persian, versus “ghaveh-khane” (literally, coffee house) which instead means a tea house) are more popular in affluent and young areas. are available from (آب ميوه ,Fruit juices (āb miveh shops and street vendors. Also available are cherry cor- -and banana milk (شربت آلبالو ,dial ( ālbāloo .(شير موز ,shakes (shir moz A modern-day Hotel in Teheran. Soft drinks are widely available. International products such as Coca-Cola and Pepsi, and their brand names in- Accommodations in Iran range from luxurious, if a lit- cluding 7up, Sprite and Fanta have sold alongside local in major cities to the (هتل) tle weary, five star hotels Zam Zam , زم زم كولا ) brands such as Zam Zam Cola -and mehmān (مسافرخانه) small, cheap mosāferkhaneh Kola). The local cola has a taste not unlike “Coca-Cola guesthouses that are littered about most (مهماﻧپذیر) pazir Original” or “Pepsi Original”. Both Coca-Cola and Pep- centres. Moreover, staff in mosāferkhuneh often are so siCo’s concentrates entered Iran via Irish subsidiaries and happy to provide room for non-Iranians, as these facili- circumvented the US trade embargoes. Ironically Za- ties have a recommendation from local governments to mZam was originally launched in 1954 as a subsidiary serve all tourists. For longer stays, villas with all facili- of the Pepsi Cola company. As an intriguing outcome ties (including central air conditioning, pool and Internet of the Iranian cola wars the real coke was generally sold connection) can be rented in Tehran and all other major in plastic bottles and the non-genuine coke, using a sub- cities at reasonable prices. Note that a man and woman stitute syrup devised to overcome earlier Clinton era US cannot share the same hotel room unless they can prove imposed embargoes, was distributed in the real thing bot- their relationship (as a married couple or siblings). For- tles that the then syrup-less bottler was left stuck with at eign tourists are usually excepted from this law. also you the time. can find traditional hotels in central Iran includes Esfa- .is a sour drink made from yoghurt, salt, and han, Shiraz and in particular Yazd (دوغ) Doogh water (sometimes gaseous) and sometimes flavoured with mint or other plants. It takes some getting used to, but will rehydrate you quickly in the heat of Iran’s summer. It is the same as Turkish . It can be purchased at almost 1.14 Learn any establishment and is often consumed in the afternoon while eating kababs. It comes in two main varieties fizzy Iran has a large network of private, public, and state affili- (gaz-daar) and non-fizzy (bigaz). ated universities. State-run universities of Iran are under the direct supervision of Iran’s Ministry of Science, Re- Alcohol is illegal to drink for Muslims only, and if seen search and Technology (for non-medical universities) and by police may be met with punishment. Therefore, you Ministry of Health and Medical Education (for medical will rarely find places in Iran that openly sells alcohol. schools). However it is legal for Non-Muslims to produce alcohol for their consumption. Drinking is, however, common among some people, especially during parties and wed- dings, and is officially tolerated for use among the small 1.15 Work Christian and Jewish communities but only for religious purposes (e.g., for holy communion). There is no Foreigners with special expertise and skills have little dif- set legal drinking/purchasing age for Non-Muslims. ficulty in obtaining permits. Work permits are issued, The Iranian Government allows Non-Muslims to bring extended or renewed for a period of one year. In special alcoholic beverages into the country. cases, temporary work permits valid for a maximum pe- riod of three months may be issued. An exit permit must be obtained for a stay longer than three months. 20 CHAPTER 1. IRAN

The maximum working week is 44 hours, with no more 1.15.1 Business customs than eight hours any single day unless overtime compen- sation is provided. Overtime could not exceed four hours • Iranians are very formal and it will take several per day. Friday is the weekly day of rest. Overtime is meetings before a more personal relationship can be payable at 40 per cent above the normal hourly wage. established. This is particularly true for government There are allowances for shift work equivalent to 10, 15 officials, representatives of state controlled compa- or 22.5 per cent of a worker’s wage, depending on work- nies and foundations. ing shift (e.g. evening, morning and night) Workers are entitled to public holidays and a paid annual • Negotiations will be long, detailed and protracted. one-month leave. For workers with less than a year of employment, annual leaves are calculated in proportion to • Exchange of gifts is a tradition among private sector the actual length of service. Furthermore, every worker is business people. entitled to take one full month of paid leave or one month of unpaid leave (if no leave is available) once during his • Along with the social customs, certain additional or her working life in order to perform the pilgrimage to business etiquette should be realised prior to inter- . action with Iranian businessmen. Although officials The employment of workers less than 15 years of age is of the Islamic Republic are not allowed to wear a prohibited. Young workers between 15 and 18 years of tie, it is very common for visiting foreigners to do age must undergo a medical examination by the Social so though proper business attire need not include a Security Organisation prior to commencing employment. tie in Iran. Women are entitled to a 9 month maternity leave. • There is a minimum national wage applicable to each Women must adhere to the Islamic dress code re- sector of activity fixed by the Supreme Labour Council. ferred to below. It is important to note that most Workers and employers have the right to establish guild officials will not shake hands with a member of the societies. Collective bargaining is allowed. Membership opposite sex, especially in public. It is highly rec- in the social security system for all employees is compul- ommended not to create an awkward situation by sory. extending one’s hand. The same is true for private citizens who are particularly religious. To have a valid contract concluded under the Law, the following provisions must be included:

• 1. Type of Work, vocation or duty that must be un- 1.16 Stay safe dertaken by the worker; Iran is still a relatively low-crime country, although thefts • 2. Basic compensation and supplements thereto; and muggings have been on the increase in recent years. Keep your wits about you, and take the usual precautions • 3. Working hours, holidays and leaves; against pickpockets in crowded bazaars and buses. Due to US sanctions, using international credit or debit cards in • 4. Place of performance of duties; Iran is not possible, but you can buy Iranian banks prepaid no-name Gift Cards to enjoy money withdrawal from • 5. Probationary period, if any; more than 11,000 ATMs around Iran for free. Purchas- ing gift cards has no surcharge or service fee and you can • 6. Date of conclusion of contract; withdraw or spend all the money you put on your gift card. Some of the gift cards have no ATM withdrawal feature • 7. Duration of employment; and and are only for use in shops and stores POS, so make sure you an ATM enabled gift cards before purchasing it from • 8. Other terms and conditions required may vary a bank. There is a 2,000,000 rials daily withdrawal limit according to the nature of employment. An em- for most of the Iranian bank cards, so purchasing sev- ployer may require the employee to be subject to a eral card lets you withdraw more money from ATMs per probationary period. However, the probation time day. Gift cards usually are non-reloadable. Some are pre- may not exceed one month for unskilled workers loaded with a designated amount but some banks let you and three months for skilled and professional work- load them for your desired amount when you purchase. ers. During the probation period, either party may As they are anonymous, there is almost no way to report immediately terminate the employment relationship a stolen card and get a duplicate. Always keep passwords without cause or payment of severance pay. The and cards in a safe place. Having a couple of used empty only caveat being that if the employer terminates the cards with passwords written on them may help you in relationship, he must pay the employee for the entire case of being mugged for money! There is no cash-back duration of the probation period. feature in Iranian POSs but in case of an emergency and 1.16. STAY SAFE 21

having no access to ATMs you may ask a shop owner with POS to give you cash-back. They may charge you for bank service fee (1% - 5%). Withdraw your leftover money in cards a few days before leaving Iran to avoid any problem which may cause by SHETAB Interbank Net- work failure (very rare). It is common that ATMs do not work for an hour between 12:00AM - 01:00AM due to a database update. When using an ATM be alert. Better to use it in not very quiet areas. In particular, the tourist centre of Isfahan has had prob- lems with muggings of foreigners in unlicensed taxis, and fake police making random checks of tourists’ passports. Only use official taxis, and never allow 'officials’ to make The best time for photography in Iran is during festivals, like impromptu searches of your belongings. Mourning of Muharram. Iranian traffic is congested and chaotic. Guidelines are lax and rarely followed. Pedestrians are advised to ex- 1.16.2 Photography ercise caution when crossing the roads, and even greater care when driving on them - Iranian drivers tend to over- There are a lot of military and other sensitive facilities take along pavements and any section of the road where in Iran. Photography near military and other government there is space. In general, it is not recommended for inex- installations is strictly prohibited. Any transgression may perienced foreigners to drive in Iran. Watch out for joobs result in detention and serious criminal charges, includ- the open storm water drains that shoulder every ,(جوب) ing espionage, which can carry the death penalty. Do road and are easy to miss when walking in the dark. not photograph any military object, jails, harbours, or Travellers should avoid the southeastern area of Iran, telecommunication devices, airports or other objects and particularly the province of va Baluchistan. The facilities which you suspect are military in nature. Be drug trade thrives based on smuggling heroin from aware that this rule is taken very seriously in Iran. Afghanistan. There is plenty of associated robbery, kid- napping and murder. Some cities, such as Zahedan, and are particularly dangerous, although 1.16.3 Women not every place in this region is dangerous. Chahbahar, which is close to the Pakistani border, is a very calm and Female travellers should not encounter any major prob- friendly city. lems when visiting Iran, but will undoubtedly be the sub- ject of at least some unwanted attention but they should obey local laws. Contrary to popular belief, Iranian women typically differ little from those in the West, al- though differences may be more prominent in highly reli- gious families. In Tehran and several bigger cities West- ern clothing and formality is accepted but wearing a hijab 1.16.1 Iranian perceptions of outsiders may be required in most of rural areas. Women by law must wear a headscarf in public.

Even though travellers may arrive with the image of a throng chanting “Death to America”, the chances of 1.16.4 Gay and lesbian travel Westerners facing anti-Western sentiment as a traveller are slim. Even hardline Iranians make a clear distinc- Iran is one of the strictest anti-gay countries in the world; tion between the Western governments they distrust and According to the law in Iran, homosexuality is pun- individual travellers who visit their country. Americans ishable by death and sex by lesbians is punishable may receive the odd jibe about their government’s poli- with lashes. These two punishments, in Iran’s judiciary cies, but usually nothing more serious than that. How- system, are only practiced if an act of gay or lesbian sex ever, it is always best to err on the side of caution and is proved by means of 4 or more witnesses. avoid politically-oriented conversations, particularly in taxi cabs. In addition, a few Iranian-Americans have been It’s not recommended for gay or lesbian couples to detained recently and accused of espionage, as were three travel in Iran. American hikers in 2009 who allegedly strayed across If you're a homosexual or lesbian couple and want to into Iran from . These kind of incidents travel in Iran either way, you should be very careful. Pub- are rare, but still the broader implications are worth con- lic displays of platonic affection between homosex- sidering and bearing in mind. ual or lesbian couples, such as holding hands, arms 22 CHAPTER 1. IRAN draped over shoulders and kissing on the cheek might Apart from being up to date with your usual travel vac- make you experience harassment by security forces. cinations (tetanus, polio, etc.) no special preparation is needed for travel to Iran. For minor ailments, your ho- tel can contact an English-speaking doctor. In case of 1.16.5 Emergencies serious illness or accident, you can ask to be taken to a hospital with English-speaking staff (such as Milad Hos- Emergency services are extensive in Iran, and response pital, Atiyeh Hospital, Mehrad Hospital, Day Hospital or times are very good compared to other local regions. Khatam ol-Anbia Hospital in Tehran). Make sure that your health insurance covers illness or accident on holi- • ☎ 110, is the telephone number of the local Police days since free medical service is not available in Iran. control centre, it is probably easiest to phone 110, as Tap water is safe to drink in most of the country (and es- the local police have direct contact with other emer- pecially the cities), although you may find the chalkiness gency services, and will probably be the only number and taste off-putting in some areas (mainly Qom, Yazd, with English speaking operators. Hormozgan and Boushehr provinces). Bottled mineral water (āb ma'dani) is widely available. Also, on many Other Emergency Services are also available. streets and sites, public water fridges are installed to pro- vide drinking water. • ☎ 115, for Ambulances

• ☎ 125, for the Fire and Rescue team (these numbers 1.18 Respect are frequently answered by the Ambulance or Fire crew operating from them, there is little guarantee these men will speak English). In general, Iranians are warm, friendly and generous individuals with a strong interest in foreigners and other • ☎ 112, the international number 112 is available cultures. In dealing with Iranians, the following tips re- from cell phones, and will usually connect you to the lating to customs and etiquette may prove useful: Police. Although its strict Islamic moral code is well known, Ira- nian laws are not as strict as other countries such as Saudi • ☎ 141, Road Status Information Arabia. Respecting the dozens of unspoken rules and reg- ulations of Iranian life can be a daunting prospect for trav- ellers, but don't be intimidated. As a foreigner you will 1.16.6 Natural disasters be given leeway and it doesn't take long to acclimatise yourself. Earthquakes may occur in much of the country. The culture, like most others in the Middle East and Central Asia, has a strong tradition of hospitality. Guests are often treated extremely well. On the other hand, 1.17 Stay healthy there is some insularity; any foreigner may be regarded with suspicion. In Persian for Mr, Ms they say “Aghaye [name], Khanoome [name]” and out of respect they use plural verbs and pronouns. They often greet by rais- ing hand to shake or/and give a hug which is a common Middle Eastern tradition. And they will tell you: Kheili Khosh Amadid. (Welcome! for greeting.) But if you are a man, do not attempt to shake hands with a woman un- less she voluntarily raises her hand. When you greeting to a sitting,he/she will be rise up.

1.18.1 Iranian nationality

Most Iranian citizens are not Arabs and their primary Farsi or فارسی language is Persian (natively known as Parsi). Referring to them as “Arabs” in general پارسی Pharmacies (drug stores) are called “daru-khaneh” in Persian. conversation may irritate them. Iranians are very proud They sell prescription and nonprescription drugs. of their history, nationality and country and are highly Iran has state-of-the-art medical facilities in all its major sensitive to this. cities. Iran has over 4,000 years of written history and organised 1.18. RESPECT 23

civilisation; see Persian Empire. It was conquered three designs are acceptable. Even when undertaking sporting times: by the Greeks under Alexander in the 4th century activity in public (such as tennis or jogging), the dress BCE, the Arabs in the 8th CE, and the Mongols in the code described above must be maintained. 13th. “Persia” is a name of Greek origin attributed to Men are also required to abide by the following dress Iran. “Persian” cannot be equated with “Iranian,” as Iran code: Short-sleeved shirts and t-shirts are acceptable for has several ethnic groups, including Persian, Azeri, Kurd, daily wear. Shorts and three-quarter length pants are Arab, Baluchi and Mazandarani. After the Arab con- only acceptable on the beach. Dress attire for men is sim- quest, Persian alphabet was changed to an Arabic-based ilar to that in Europe. Neckties are better to be avoided one. Indeed the word “Farsi” itself is an Arabic articula- if visiting one of the more conservative government bod- tion of the word “Parsi”, the original word meaning “Per- ies. Regarded by the authorities as a sign of Imperialism sian”. Today, the has many loan words and a reminder of the pro-western kingdom era, wearing taken from the Arabic language. The Arabic language has neckties by the authorities and office workers of state- also adopted some words from Persian. There are several run companies is forbidden. It is quite acceptable in the widely-spoken , Kurdish, Persian, and areas outside though it denotes indifference toward or op- Balochi are all Western Iranian languages, while Pashto position against state regulations and values. Jogging in is an Eastern Iranian language. Persian is the official lan- tracksuits (but not shorts) is acceptable for men. guage of 3 nations - Iran, Afghanistan and - and is spoken within 13 nations of the region and in general by the elsewhere. 1.18.3 Conduct Over the 19th and 20th centuries Iran was frequently sub- jected to unfavorable political interference by the Rus- Greet people of the same sex with a handshake, three sian Empire and its successor, the USSR. The British and kisses or both, but avoid physical contact with people of then the USA also sought to influence and control the pol- the opposite sex in public. Wait for them to introduce itics, resources and destiny of Iran. In 1980, Iraq under themselves instead; or just introduce yourself normally. Saddam Hussein, supported by most of the global com- (Bowing with a hand over your heart has been outdated munity, attacked and invaded Iran, causing the country to since the 70s and is rarely done.) In private, only shake suffer a bloody 8-year war that drastically undermined its hands with a member of the opposite sex when he/she infrastructure and consumed its resources. holds out his/her hand first. Given the above, the Iranian people feel that history has Be careful of initiating political discussions. The frequently not been on their side and that the global com- relative political freedom of ex-President Mohammad munity owes them respect and sensitivity. Khatami’s era is fading quickly and vocal opposition can be more trouble than it’s worth, even if your Iranian com- panions get engaged in it. It’s best not to discuss topics 1.18.2 Dress such as the Israeli-Palestinian Conflict or the role of Is- lam in society regardless of what opinion you hold. Perhaps the most visible mark of Iran’s Islamic leanings is the conservative dress expected of its citizens. Al- though normal Western-style clothing is acceptable in pri- 1.18.4 Tarof vate homes, when in public women are required to cover is a genuine Persian form of ( تعارف :everything but their face, hands and feet. Tarof (Persian The most common uniform consists of a head scarf (roo- civility emphasising both self-deference and social rank. to conceal the head and neck, a formless, The term encompasses a range of social behaviours, from (روسری ,sari -and a long a man displaying etiquette by opening the door for an (مانتو) knee-length coat known as a manteau dress or pair of pants. In holy sites, you will be expected other person, to a group of colleagues standing on cere- to dress even more modestly in a chādor, a full-length mony in front of a door that can permit the entry of only swathe of black cloth designed to cloak everything but one at time, earnestly imploring the most senior to break your face from view. the deadlock. As a foreigner, a female traveller is officially expected to The prevalence of tarof often gives rise to different styles cover her hair and body excluding hands and feet. Usually of negotiation than one would see in a European or North more tolerance tends to be shown towards foreigners over American culture. For example, a worker negotiating a the detail of the dress code than is the case for Iranian salary might begin with a eulogy of the employer, fol- women. However, this does not include leaving one’s hair lowed by a lengthy bargaining session consisting entirely fully uncovered under any circumstance. “Acceptable” of indirect, polite language -- both parties are expected outfits may include a long, loose dress or shirt worn over to understand the implied topic of discussion. It is quite loose skirt or pants and a scarf in the summer, and a full- common for an Iranian worker (even one employed in length woolen coat and scarf in the winter (calf-length is an Iranian neighbourhood within Europe) to work un- acceptable if worn over pants). All colours and modest paid for a week or two before the issue of wages is finally 24 CHAPTER 1. IRAN broached. Likewise, a shopkeeper may initially refuse to you trade your shoes for a token. Also try to avoid quote a price for an item, suggesting that it is worthless. mosques on the holy day of Friday as they will be much Tarof obliges the customer to insist on paying, possibly busier and don't photograph a mosque while prayers are several times, before a shopkeeper finally quotes a price taking place. and real negotiation can begin. Holy shrines, like those in Mashad and Qom, are usually Tarof also governs the rules of hospitality: a host is off limits to non-Muslims, although the surrounding com- obliged to offer anything a guest might want, and a guest plexes are fine. Always ask first before you enter a room is equally obliged to refuse it. This ritual may repeat itself you are unsure of. several times before the host and guest finally determine whether the host’s offer and the guest’s refusal are real or simply polite. It is possible to ask someone not to tarof 1.18.6 Obscene gestures (tarof näkonid), but that raises new difficulties, since the request itself might be a devious type of tarof. The best The thumbs up gesture is extremely rude in Iran, approach to handle Tarof is to be politely direct. Accept roughly equivalent to raising the middle finger in West- or reject as soon as you wish to, and be sure that Iranians ern countries. will not be offended. Even though Tarof is purely about Hitchhiking is rare in Iran, and the country has a good the art of civility, your engagement in Tarof might enter public transportation system. If you do hitchhike, do not you into a vicious cycle of hypocrisy that may ruin your use a thumbs up signal. Instead, hold your hand out- entire stay. The exception to this may be with food; as stretched, palm downwards and, using a stiff arm, move mentioned above, guests are expected to accept food they it up and down below the waist in a motion similar to a are offered at dinner, regardless of whether they intend to British driver hand signaling that he is slowing for a pedes- eat it. trian crossing. Like in Japan, if you are an obvious occi- dental you are likely to make rapid and friendly progress. 1.18.5 Visiting holy sites Also, be aware that drivers will generally expect to be paid and, unless you are an expert haggler, hitchhiking will often be more expensive than taking a bus.

1.18.7 Religion

Contrary to popular belief, public observance of other re- ligions, except the Baha'i faith and Ahmadiyyah, is offi- cially tolerated in Iran. There is a sizable Christian com- munity, most of whom are ethnic Armenians or Assyr- ians/Chaldean, and a small Jewish community (which is nevertheless, the largest Jewish community in the Middle East outside Israel). In addition to the Abrahamic faiths, there are also significant numbers of Zoroastrians who are basically free to practise their own religion.

The Mashhad shrine of the martyred Imam Reza (the 8th Imam) However, remember that this is still a fundamentalist Muslim country and do not do or say anything which can Although no trip to Iran would be complete without a be perceived as an insult to Islam. Also note that the Is- glimpse at the stunning architecture and sombre environ- lamic dress codes still apply even to non-Muslims. ments of its mosques or holy shrines, many travellers are daunted by the prospect of walking into the foreign world of a mosque. Don't let these fears stop you; Iranians are 1.18.8 Music welcoming and will understand any unintended breach of protocol. Western music and dancing in public is banned . How- ever, the visitors may notice that even shared taxis openly Some mosques, and most holy shrines, require women to play the music of their choice. Still, customs may confis- be wearing a chādor before entering the complex. If you cate any music tapes or CDs brought in as some west- don't have one, there are sometimes kiosks by the door ern music is considered un-Islamic, degrading towards that lend or hire chādors. It is better for men to wear women and corrupting for the minds of the youth. How- long-sleeved shirts inside a mosque or shrine, though this ever, many Iranian youth have widespread access to all is not mandatory. kinds of music. Women are not allowed to sing in pub- Shoes are not worn within prayer areas of a mosque or lic (even the traditional music); they may sing indoors for shrine. Busier mosques have free shoe repositories where other women only. 1.19. CONNECT 25

1.19 Connect 1.19.3 Landline Phone

1.19.1 Emergency services An Iranian phone number is of the form +98-XXX- XXX-XXXX where “98” is the country code for Iran, the next 3 digits (or 2 in the case of Tehran and some big • Police: ☎ 110 cities) is the area code and the remaining 7 digits (eight in the case of Tehran and some big cities) are the “lo- • Ambulance: ☎ 115 cal” part of the subscriber number that can be called from within that particular area code using abbreviated dialing. • Fire: ☎ 125 You will need to dial “0” in front of the geographic area code from outside that particular area code (but when still within Iran). 1.19.2 Embassies and missions Mobile numbers in Iran must always be dialed with all 11 digits (including a “0” prefixing the “9nn” within Iran), • Australian Embassy to Iran, ☎ +98 21 8872 no matter where they are being called from. The 9nn is 4456, fax: +98 21 8872 0484. No. 13, 23rd Street, a mobile prefix, not an “area code”, as such and the sec- Intifada Ave, Tehran - ond and third digits denote the original mobile network assigned.

• Croatian Embassy in Tehran No. 25 Avia Pas- These are the area codes for major cities: Tehran (021) daran, Tehran ☎ +98 21 2258 9923 - Fax: +98 21 - Kashan (0361) - Isfahan (031) - Ahwaz (061) - Shiraz 2254 9199 (071) - Tabriz (041) - Mashad (051) - Kerman (034) - Gorgan (0171) - Na'in (0323) - Hamadan (081) - Ker- manshah (083) - Sari (011) • Embassy of Ireland North Ave., Bon- When making international calls from Iran, the prefix to bast Nahid Street 8, Tehran ☎ +98 21 2280 3835 be dialled prior to country code is 00. (8:30AM-4:30PM, Sun-Thur)

• Royal Netherlands Embassy in Iran, ☎ +98 21 1.19.4 Cell Phone (SIM card) 2256 7005, fax: +98 21 2256 6990. Shahrzad Blvd., Kamassale Street, First East Lane Irancell (MTN), MCI, Iran Taliya and Rightel offer pre- no. 33, Tehran; [email protected] paid SIM cards for international travelers starting at IRR60,000. It is possible to buy recharge cards from • Royal Norwegian Embassy in Tehran, 201 Dr. all newsstands and supermarkets for IRR20,000. GPRS, Lavasani St (Ex. St.), ☎ +98 21 2229 MMS, and 3G services are also available at very low 1333, fax: +98 21 2229 2776. No., Tehran, Iran - prices, specially at night, for surfing the web or check- ing your email. With a copy of the information page of your passport and a copy of the page with Iranian visa and • Embassy of the Republic of Serbia in Iran entrance seal, you can buy SIM cards and access the in- 9 th street, nr. 9, , Tehran, P.O. ternet with GPRS, EDGE, 3G and 4G technologies. SIM Box 11365-118. ☎ +98 21 2241 2569, +98 cards are available in places like post and government e- 21 2241 2570 - (Fax:+98 21 2240 2869) services offices (Persian: singular: Daftar-e Khadamat-e -plural: Dafater-e Khadamat ;دفتر خدمات دولت [email protected] Dowlat and also in big shops. You (دفاتر خدمات دولت e Dowlat • Embassy of Switzerland in Iran, 13 Yasaman might also find them at the airport. Street, ☎ +98 21 2200 8333, fax: +98 21 2200 6002. Sharifi Manesh Avenue, Tehran. 1.19.5 Post • Americans should go to the US Interests Section of the Swiss Embassy if in need of assistance. Services The Islamic Republic of Iran Post Company has 209 cen- are extremely limited, and the Swiss may be reluctant tral post offices which supervise all the 275 urban and and/or unable to help in minor cases. 1,153 rural post offices. The company provides many of the internationally available post services. Parcel sending is very cheap and reliable. Bring your items unpacked • Embassy of the Republic of Slovenia in Tehran, to the post office. International courier companies such ☎ +98 21 2283 6042, fax: +98 21 2229 0853. 30 as DHL, Skypak etc. have offices in Tehran and accept Narenjestan 8th Alley Avenue, Tehran. documents for foreign destinations. 26 CHAPTER 1. IRAN

1.19.6 Internet • Foreign embassies. Consulates and Embassies fol- low the Iranian working week, closing on Friday and You can readily access WiFi internet services (depend- often on one other day of the week, usually Satur- ing upon network availability) in many areas, and in all day, as well as their own national holidays. However, provinces. to make sure on all cases, it is advisable to call first before visiting. Some websites, including Facebook and YouTube are blocked in Iran. You can circumvent this by downloading a free proxy app such as Psiphon. You need to use a proxy • Government offices. Generally open from 8AM- server, VPN or a software like Freegate to access Face- 2PM, Sat-Wed. Some offices, especially Ministries book, Twitter, YouTube and some websites; otherwise, in Tehran, are closed completely on Thursday and you might see this page which shows that the site you want others open only from 8AM-11.30AM or noon. In to access is filtered and blocked by the judiciary system. general, Thursday is not a good day for conducting You also need to use Freegate to check your bank account official business. balance; otherwise, your account might get blocked due to the sanctions against Iran. • 'Principal businesses. Open from 9AM-1PM and 3PM-9PM weekdays and closed on Fridays. The bazaar and some shops close on Thursday afternoon, 1.19.7 Internet cafes too.

You can expect to pay IRR15,000 per hour and speeds • Museums. Each museum has its own visiting hours. range from acceptable in major cities, to the infuriatingly It is better to check the timings before visiting. slow in small towns and rural areas. More recently, some facilities in major cities use broadband wireless or DSL Hours may change during , the month of fast- connections. Most coffee net places will also have a DVD ing. During that month, Muslims are not allowed to eat or burner for downloading photos from digital cameras. drink while the sun is in the sky. Restaurants are closed all day, opening at sundown and perhaps remaining open very late. Other businesses may adjust their hours as well. 1.19.8 Working hours

• Banks. All banks were nationalised after the rev- olution. However, during the past decade, the fol- lowing private (non-governmental) banks have been founded, which usually provide better service:

• Mellat

• Parsian

• Saman

• Eghtesad Novin

• Pasargad

Banks are generally open from 7:30AM-1:30PM Sat- Wed and 7:30AM-12 noon on Thursdays. Main branches are usually open to 3PM. (Closed on Fridays). Interna- tional airports have a bank open whenever international flights arrive or depart. All banks have boards in both English as well as Persian.

• Bus company. Offices at the terminals in larger cities open daily from early morning until the evening more or less without a break. In smaller cities they may keep smaller or less regular hours. Chapter 2

Babolsar

Babolsar is a city in Iran.

2.1 Get in

2.2 Get around

2.3 See

2.4 Do

2.5 Buy

2.6 Eat

If you are interested in sea foods you can try the most delicious taste of Caspian sea fish like with high- quality of -mixed rice. Also various types of sea birds are cooked skillfully in special Mazandarany instruction in winters. Famous restaurants are Mizban, Shilat bar, Shoopeh, Varesh and etc.

2.7 Drink

2.8 Sleep

2.9 Connect

2.10 Go next

27 Chapter 3

Bajgiran

Bajgiran is an Iranian village located at one of three • Tourism & Camping Complex (left at the entrance border points between Iran and Turkmenistan. It is lo- of the city). Check-out: after 8AM. Ten simple but cated 75 km from Quchan (Iran) and about 40 km from clean and brand new rooms. Probably the worst wel- Ashgabat, capital of Turkmenistan. coming atmosphere in Asia, but price and location make it a good option. It is not possible to leave the hotel before 8AM. 200 000 rials for a twin room. 3.1 Get in There is another hotel, with much more simple rooms No public transportation gets to Bajgiran. (shared toilets outside!), 500m further on the road, at the middle of the village. The best solution should be to rent a taxi from Quchan (about 30 000 rials per person). 3.6 Connect 3.2 See No Internet café in Bajgiran. Cell phones can be used with no problem. Some old mud-houses. The landscape is wonderful, but pay attention to the fact that the small road going into the mountains can cross the border with Turkmenistan without any warning. 3.7 Go next

3.7.1 To Quchan 3.3 Buy Take a taxi going down from the border. Bargain the price! Post office, bank, some small shops, where you can change Iranian rials into Turkmen manats, at a correct rate. 3.7.2 To Mashhad

Take a taxi to Quchan. From here, buses leave every two 3.4 Eat hours (8,000 rials) to Mashhad.

The only option seems to be the restaurant in the hotel left when you enter the city. 50 000 rials for the day meal, 3.7.3 To Turkmenistan including drink. As no public transportation goes across the Turkmen bor- Some food in the small shops, more expensive than in the der, to get to Ashgabat in Turkmenistan, the following rest of Iran. option is the most convenient:

• Go to the border (opening time: 7.30-15.30 Iran 3.5 Sleep time). Crossing the border can take up to 2 hours. Turkmen police will ask for an entry tax of $10 (per Bajgiran is only a small village, and it seems there are only person) + $2 of bank fees (per group), to be paid in two places to sleep in. US dollars only.

28 3.7. GO NEXT 29

• In the Turkmenistan side, take a taxi to Ashgabat, which can cost up to $15 per person. Duration: about 1h. Chapter 4

Bojnourd

Bampoor is the of North ,Iran.

4.1 Understand

4.2 Get in

4.3 Get around

4.4 See

The most important village is Shirindarre which is a tourist attraction,

4.5 Do

The city is famous for its Turkmen horses and profes- sional horse training centers.

4.6 Buy

4.7 Eat

4.8 Drink

4.9 Sleep

4.10 Connect

4.11 Go next

The ancient city was situated on a hill northwest of the present city of Bojnurd, known as Sarvan Mahaleh.

30 Chapter 5

Dizin

Make sure you check the weather and snow forecast be- fore you leave, especially if are traveling the direct route.

5.2 Get around

The hotel is located just 20 m from the bottom of the slopes. The parking area is just 50 m away with a few shops that rent out ski equipment. See the map for further details. Dizin is a north of Tehran. The highest reaches 3,600 m (11,800 ft), making it one of the 40 highest ski resorts in the world. Popular with rich Ira- 5.3 See nians form north Tehran on the weekend (Thursday and Friday) but during the week it is barely visited. Most peo- You can see Mount Damavand, the highest mountain ple just take the gondol up and ski to the restaurant in the in Iran, from Dizin. The scenery with the surrounding middle of the slope and spend the day showing off their mountains is spectacular. latest gear while sipping tea. It is probably the most lib- eral public place in Iran but police still occasionally patrol the slopes. However, girls can be seen with a fair amount of hair showing and young couples are openly chatting 5.4 Do away. Dizin is an excellent place for skiing and snowboard- ing, with 22 lifts in the area. A day pass costs between 5.1 Get in 120,000 and 150,000 rials (more on the weekend). A snowboard can be rented for 100,000 per day, but can go From Tehran: as high as 300,000 per day depending on where you rent and quality. Cheaper rentals are available in Shemshak or • Taxi. 300-350,000 rials one-way. at the parking lot on the top of Dizin. • Group tour organized by hotel or your travel agent. • Minibus (Tel: +9 89126708975) Leaves very early 5.5 Buy in the morning, around 5am, and departs from Dizin around 3pm. Price is 100,000 rials return. It is possible to rent ski and snowboard equipment at three There are two ways to reach Dizin from Tehran. The places: the pro-shop at the Hotel which has the newest longest and safest way is through Karaj, this road is usu- great and thus much more expensive, the rental places ally open but it takes about 2,5 hours. The quickest way around the parking lot by the hotel and a few small places is directly north passing through the resort of Shemshak. along the road at the parking lot on the top. The latter is Between Shemshak and Dizin the road is steep and fre- about half the price compared to the ones at the bottom quent avalanches means this part of the road often is of the slopes. Same applies to rentals in Shemshak. closed. The minibus mentioned above use this way - Un- Ski instructors are available for hire. It is also possible less you are on a day-trip it is strongly advised you take to hire an experienced guide who can take you to other the road through Karaj. mountains and off-piste skiing.

31 32 CHAPTER 5. DIZIN

usual kebabs. The former cool-looking retro bar has been turned into a coffee shop with non-alcoholic beer. 30% discount on weekdays. 560,000.

• Gajereh Hotel. There is also hotel about five min- utes before arriving at Hotel Dizin. This hotel is slightly cheaper and will have a higher chance of having vacant rooms on weekends. It has a free shut- tle bus to the slope.

5.9 Connect

There is no public telephone in Dizin. Irancell mobile network has coverage (early 2009). You may also be able to use the phone in the reception of Hotel Dizin for local calls.

5.10 Go next

You can get a taxi from the top of the slope down to Shemshak which is another ski resorts just 15 minutes away. Shemshak is steeper and very good for experienced skiers.

International Snowboard championship in Dizin

5.6 Eat

During the day there is a SFC (Iranian version of KFC) in the middle of the slope and a snack bar at the top. The latter also serve breakfast. At night there are only two restaurants (also open for breakfast and lunch); one in Dizin Hotel and another in the other hotel (only restaurant is open).

5.7 Drink

5.8 Sleep

There is also a hotel in Shemshak from where you can catch a ride or a taxi to the top of the slope. Next to Dizin Hotel 1 there is another hotel with the equally cre- ative name Dizin Hotel 2. However as of 2008 it was undergoing renovations and only the restaurant was open.

• Dizin Hotel 1, ☎ +98 261 5212449 - 5212978, fax: +98 261 5212449. Old hotel situated just in front of the ski slopes. Great view from rooms facing the slopes. There is one very friendly and resourceful lady at the front desk, make sure you deal with her as everyone else is incompetent. Restaurant serves the Chapter 6

Hamadan

6.4 See

Dasht-e Mishan

Hamadan is one of the oldest cities in Western Iran, and Tomb of Esther and Mordechai some believe the world.

6.1 Understand

6.2 Get in

6.2.1 By plane

There is a daily flight from Tehran.

6.2.2 By train

A train station is at Malayer which is about an hour by car.

6.2.3 By car

6.2.4 By bus

There are buses from Tehran and other major cities. Holy Mary Church

• Ali Sadr Cave – about 100km north of Hamadan 6.3 Get around lies this fascinating cave which is the world’s largest water cave. Best toured by pedal boat.

33 34 CHAPTER 6. HAMADAN

• Avicenna (Abu Ali Sina) – tomb of of Iran) which is a government-owned bank in Iran, pro- the Persian polymath Avicenna (Ibn Sina) vides an ATM debit card service (plastic magnetic card) for tourists who visit Iran. Tourists just need to head the • Baba Tahir Mausleum nearest branch of this bank. Information on this service • Alavian Cupola (-e Alavian) can be found here. Another way to prevent having your money stolen, is going to the nearest bank and getting a • Ganjnameh, is an ancient inscription which has gift card. They are exactly like ordinary ATM debit cards, been carved in granite, is composed of two sections. but once they get empty, they cannot be recharged. Sepah One on the left ordered by Darius I and the other on Bank or Bank -e- Sepah is a governmental bank that has the right was ordered by Xerxes I . a current account service for foreigners which provides both ATM debit card and cheque writing option. A list • Hamadan Stone Lion (Shir-e-Sangi) of permitted Iranian banks can be found here • Estakhr-e (an over-the-hill lake with a magnificent view to the city.) • Police: 110 • Excavated Ancient Ekbatana City • Fire department: 125

• Tomb of Esther and Mordechai - believed to • EMS: 115 house the remains of the biblical Queen Esther and her uncle Mordechai, it is the most important pil- • Road EMS: 115 or 112 grimage site for Jews in the country. • Grigori Stephan Church – one of the churches of 6.13 Go next the Iranian-Armenians • Hamadan Museum of Natural History, It has a considerable taxidermic collection of animals and insects. The museum also has an aquarium and live fish tanks. • Nazari House • Mohammadi House • Borj-e Ghorban

6.5 Do

6.6 Buy

6.7 Eat

6.8 Drink

6.9 Sleep

6.10 Connect

6.11 Cope

6.12 Stay safe

You might want to have plastic money to prevent having your money stolen. Bank-e Melli-ye Iran (National Bank Chapter 7

Masjed Solayman

-also Ro ; مسجدسليمان : (Persian manized as Masjed Soleymān, Masjed-e Soleymān, Masjed Soleiman, and Masjid-i-Sulaiman) is a city in , Iran.

7.1 Get in

7.2 Get around

7.3 See

Masjed Soleiman’s most interesting parish is Tembi, and historical and ancient site is Sarmasjed Temple in the northeast. Sarmasjed temple is on the verge of Sar- masjed terrace, in ancient time fire had been continu- ously flaming inside it. And according to historians was the capital of Achaemenian Reign. Among other Masjed Soleiman ancient relics, is the ancient Temple of Bard- e-Neshande.

7.4 Do

7.5 Buy

7.6 Eat

7.7 Drink

7.8 Sleep

7.9 Go next

35 Chapter 8

Qom

is a holy city between Tehran and 8.2.2 By train (قم :Qom (Persian Isfahan. Qom is near Tehran, which the distance is as far as 120 kilometres. There are train routes which take you from Tehran and other nearby cities such as Arak, Yazd and Isfahan.

• 8.1 Understand Qom train station, ☎ +98/(0)251/6617141.

8.2.3 By car

Driving from Tehran might be a reasonable option, how- ever, if you're worried about driving in Iran you can re- serve a private bus to take you to Qom. After all, it is much safer to travel by private buses.

8.3 Get around

There is a pretty impressive bus and taxi system, which has many bus routes to Tehran and other cities. It is very cheap to travel by local buses in Qom. Private tour buses are generally much more expensive. Fatima È Massummeh Shrine

Qom is one of the holiest cities in Iran and the Middle 8.4 See East, and has a very long history. A famous site is the Fa- tima È Massummeh Shrine, which is a highly respected • Jamkarân Mosque. The mosque is reserved for shrine and a very clean place. people with different na- Muslims only. tionalities are allowed to enter the shrine, no matter what their religions are or where they come from. Qom has • Mar'ashi Najafi Library. Library has over for a long time been the main city for religious studies in 500,000 handwritten texts Iran. Hozeye-Elmiye-Qom is the largest theology school in Iran. Many senior clerics of Shia Islam live in Qom. • Shrine of Fatima-al-Massumeh. The Holy Shrine is the burial place of “Fatema È Massumeh”. Also buried within the shrine are three daughters of ninth, Shī‘ah Imām, Muhammad at-Taqī. Women 8.2 Get in must wear a to enter.

8.2.1 By air • Howzeh lake: Rich in natural spring water which is said to purify the heart. The nearest and most easily accessible international air- port is Tehran’s Imam Khomeini International Air- • Feyze seminary: The place which devout Muslims port (IATA: IKA), which is due to replace the older gather up to meet and hear speeches from the reli- Mehrabad International Airport (IATA: THR). gious leaders.

36 8.10. RESPECT 37

• Religion University (Qom, Pardisan)(Shahrak • Kawsar hotel, in the same alley as the Negin hotel is Pardisan), ☎ 2802610. 0:20. 1500. the Kawsar, a two-star which is fine for 1 or 2 nights. Hefty bargaining possible among the neighbouring hotels. Decent rooms, with hot shower. Toilet on the hallway. Cost IR900,000 to IR1,900,000; haggling 8.5 Do can get the lower price.

Religion University 8.10 Respect

8.6 Buy Qom is one of the holiest cities in Iran and the Middle East, and as such be aware that Islamic customs and val- Qom has many carpet and sweet shops. Qom is famous ues are more likely to be important here than elsewhere for it’s “sohân,” a flat sweet biscuit made of and in Iran. Don't let this worry you at all, just ensure that saffron. “Gaz”, a sweet is also available. Qom is you are respectful of religious and cultural practices and also known for the unique and beautiful silk rugs. As that you are dressed appropriately and modestly. one of Islam’s holy cities there are numerous religious shops which sell religious books, versions of the Koran and compact discs. 8.11 Go next

If you feel like visiting another quintessential Persian city, 8.7 Eat a few hundred kilometres away, you can visit Yazd which is an beautiful ancient city. Isfahan is another option and is a very beautiful city and is considered to be one of the There are lots of places to eat in Qom which range from oldest and most historic cities in the world. old-style Persian restaurants to international restaurants. Persian restaurants offer a more authentic cultural atmo- sphere than international restaurants. Most of the restau- rants with good quality of food and environmental condi- tions are in Mohamad Amin Blv. which is recognizable by its tall compact trees. Places include Alborz, Madain, Morvârid, Jam and Markazi. You can find kabâb, grilled chicken and fried fish there. Dizi Baar (serving âbgusht) and Lebanese restaurants are located on Al-Qadir Boule- vard and Mohamad Amin Boulevard.

8.8 Drink

In Qom, there are various cafes and fruit juice shops. Pomegranate juice is popular and is said to heal the sick. In the winter when it snows, hot chocolate and Persian tea (châi) are available.

8.9 Sleep

• Qom International Hotel, Helal Ahmar Street (Motahary SQ). Qom International Hotel is a four star hotel and is one of Qom’s more well-known hotels. It is situated right next to the shrine com- plex. It features a decent restaurant inside and a ke- bab eatery outside its premises. Internet only in the lobby. expect 2.5 million Rials for double occupa- tion. Discounts available outside the main season.. (updated Jan 2016) Chapter 9

Baluchistan

For adjacent Pakistani region, see Balochistan. 9.8 See

Baluchistan is the southeasternmost region of Iran, along the country’s border with Pakistan.

9.1 Regions

9.2 Cities

• Zahedan

• Zabol Shahr-l Sohkta • Saravan

• Iranshahr • Shahr-I Sokhta — the ruins of a city abandoned around 1800BC, this archaeological site was in- • Nikshahr scribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2014. • Chabahar • Guel Afshan- a well that spews mud to the air • Bampoor

9.9 Do 9.3 Other destinations 9.10 Eat 9.4 Understand 9.11 Drink 9.5 Talk

The native language of the region, Baluchi, related to an- 9.12 Stay safe cient Persian (Avestan), is spoken in western, southern, and eastern parts of the region. As in the rest of Iran, 9.13 Go next Persian is also useful.

9.6 Get in

9.7 Get around thumbnail

38 Chapter 10

Baluchistan

For adjacent Pakistani region, see Balochistan. 10.8 See

Baluchistan is the southeasternmost region of Iran, along the country’s border with Pakistan.

10.1 Regions

10.2 Cities

• Zahedan

• Zabol Shahr-l Sohkta • Saravan

• Iranshahr • Shahr-I Sokhta — the ruins of a city abandoned around 1800BC, this archaeological site was in- • Nikshahr scribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2014. • Chabahar • Guel Afshan- a well that spews mud to the air • Bampoor

10.9 Do 10.3 Other destinations 10.10 Eat 10.4 Understand 10.11 Drink 10.5 Talk

The native language of the region, Baluchi, related to an- 10.12 Stay safe cient Persian (Avestan), is spoken in western, southern, and eastern parts of the region. As in the rest of Iran, 10.13 Go next Persian is also useful.

10.6 Get in

10.7 Get around thumbnail

39 Chapter 11

Caspian Iran

quickly into the Alborz Mountains.

11.1 Provinces

• Gilan (province)

• Mazandaran (province)

11.2 Cities

Āq Qalā) is a city in Golestan , آق قلا) Aqqala • Abbasabad garden Province • Babol

• Babolsar

• Behshahr

• Bandar Torkaman

• Fouman

• Ghaemshahr

• Gorgan

• Gonbad

• Masouleh

•

• Ramsar — sea resort backed by verdant mountains popular with Iranians; offering hot springs as well

• Rasht

• Sari

11.3 Other destinations Gonbad e Qabus

Caspian Iran is a beautiful region of Iran along the coast 11.4 Understand of the Caspian Sea. The forested coastal plains rise up

40 11.9. DO 41

11.5 Talk Here are a few natural attractions:

• Safarood Public Forest, located 5 km on the road to 11.6 Get in Ramsar-Javaherdeh, in the beautiful forest regions of the Alborz mountain range and near the Safarood 11.7 Get around river. This forest has many recreational centers. • Mineral Water Springs. Ramsar is quite famous for its mineral water springs. Some of these are : Nei- 11.8 See Dasht cold mineral water spring another located 12 km south of Ramsar, in a valley near the Safarood river the warm mineral water springs located be- hind the guesthouse of Ramsar, under the bridge of Ramsar (on the eastern edge of the hotel) and sadat- shahr, Mas-Rash and Tanijan warm mineral water springs in Jannat-Roodbar. • Waterfalls: These are numerous waterfalls in the mountainous regions of Ramsar which have created the most beautiful views. These include Dareh- Rashmeh on the northwestern road to Ramsar- Javaherdeh, Laj-o-Mij in Oshkoor, a hamlet near a village by the same name, etc. Kaboudval waterfall which is one of the most beautiful waterfalls of Iran, is located near Aliabad-e Katul, . Shirabad Waterfall is located 7 kilometers south of Miyansheh lake, Mazandaran Khanbebin, Golestan. • Gonbad-e Qabus tower, the tallest pure-brick tower of the world is located in Gonbad city of Golestan. Listed as an UNESCO World Heritage site • Great Wall of Gorgan, located near Gorgan, Golestan. After Great Wall of China, it is the longest defensive wall in existence. • Abbasabad Gardens in the town of Abbasabad, Mazandaran. This is one of nine inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

11.8.1 Itineraries

11.9 Do

11.10 Eat

Fish is the best way to go. If you're not that really in- terested in fish, kebab shops are scattered all over the province. Don't forget a meal in this province would not be complete without salads, yoghourt and .

11.11 Drink Kaboudval waterfall

In the central Province of Mazandaran, There are many 11.12 Stay safe things to see, ranging from natural to cultural attractions. 42 CHAPTER 11. CASPIAN IRAN

11.13 Go next Chapter 12

Aqqala

Aqqala is in Iran.

12.1 Understand

12.2 Get in

12.3 Get around

12.4 See

12.5 Do

12.6 Buy

12.7 Eat

12.8 Drink

12.9 Sleep

12.10 Connect

12.11 Go next

43 Chapter 13

Babol

is a city in the ancestor of Agha Mohammad Khan Qajar as the (بابل:Persian, باوول:Babol (Mazanderani the Caspian region of Iran, north-east of Tehran and main road from Babol to . about 30 kilometers far from Sari. It is the chief com- • mercial centre of Mazandaran Province and was once the Another nice scenery is Babol Noshirvani Park, major trading center of northern Iran. The population is which is the biggest park including playground lo- estimated at 204,878 as of 2005. cated in the north part of Iran, located almost in the vicinity of Caspian Sea. Babol is home to important and intact forests and jungles. 13.1 Understand 13.5 Do 13.1.1 History

Founded in the 16th century, it was built on the site of 13.6 Buy the ancient city of Mamatir. Babol was formerly called Barforushdeh and Barforush afterwards. 13.7 Eat

13.2 Get in 13.8 Drink

By Plane: 13.9 Sleep Fights from all over the world to Tehran ( IRAN capital ) then from Tehran airports to Sari airport ( 50 min flight and then 50 km by car to BABOL ). 13.10 Go next By Train: Also from Tehran ( IRAN capital city ) main train station to Quaemshahr train station ( 5 hours ) then half an hour from Quaemshahr to BABOL by car. By road: You can travel from Tehran to BABOL in 4/5 hours di- rectly by car or bus ! ( It is the simplest way ).

13.3 Get around

13.4 See

• The palace of Abbas I’s ruins are in the city.

• Mohammad Hassan Khan’s Bridge is also one of the most ancient buildings of Mazandaran. It was built by the king Mohammad Hassan Khan Qajar,

44 Chapter 14

Bandar Torkaman

Bandar Torkaman is a town in the Caspian Sea region number 1 or 2, but after 2PM you have take the “gor- of Iran. gan” bus.

14.1 Understand 14.3 Get around

The population of this town in northwestern Iran, by the 14.4 See Caspian Sea, is mostly fishermen and farmers, with some government employees as well. 70% of the population speak Turken; others speak Kazakh or Farsi. The pre- 14.5 Do dominant religion is Islam. Places to see include the “miankale” wet land / peninsula and the “naharkhoran” forest, as well as the carpet sell- 14.6 Buy ers’ bazaar, which is held on Mondays. Whereas in other cities staid black clothing is common, in this town, peo- 14.7 Eat ple wear bright, colourful dresses. Caviar is exported to Europe from this city. 14.8 Drink

14.2 Get in 14.9 Sleep

From Imam Khomeini airport: 14.10 Connect • By airplane : take the shuttle bus to Mehrabad, which has fights hither (usually around 8AM and 14.11 Go next 6PM).

• By train : at 7PM you can go by taxi or shut- tle bus to the 2nd “shahed” station, take off, then walk 1 minute to the metro station and take off at “shoosh” station and take a taxi to “MEIDAN E RAH AHAN”, the “rail way station square”. The taxi will not cost you more than half a dollar train to “gorgan”. Departing at 7PM, take the first class train (about 3 dollars); you will spend almost 11 hours in the train, so you can get enough sleep and rest on train. Leave the train one station before the last sta- tion.

• By bus : there are buses from “TERMINAL E SHARGH” (which means “bus station for eastern cities”), if you get there before 2PM you can get a bus straight to Bandar Torkaman from company

45 Chapter 15

Behshahr

Behshahr is a city in the Caspian Region in Iran. 15.10 Connect

15.11 Stay safe 15.1 Understand 15.12 Cope 15.2 Get in 15.13 Go next 15.2.1 By plane

15.2.2 By car

15.2.3 By bus

15.2.4 By boat

15.3 Get around

15.4 See

Abbas Abad – the home of the Abbas the Great, Chesh- meh Emarat, Baghe Shah and the Chit Sazi Factory.

15.5 Do

15.6 Buy

“Tokhme”, vegetable oil, and a dish-soap known as “Rika”.

15.7 Eat

15.8 Drink

15.9 Sleep

46 Chapter 16

Fouman

Fouman (also Romanized as Fooman, Fūman, Fowman, Fowmen, and Fumen) is a city which is the capital of Fu- man , , Iran.

16.1 Understand

16.2 Get in

16.3 Get around

16.4 See

16.5 Do

16.6 Buy

16.7 Eat

16.8 Drink

16.9 Sleep

16.10 Connect

16.11 Go next

47 Chapter 17

Ghaemshahr

Ghaemshahr (Qaemshahr) is a city in Caspian Iran re- 17.9 Sleep gion, 260km north of Teheran, in northern Iran. 17.10 Connect 17.1 Understand 17.11 Go next Ghaemshahr city’s population is over 300,000 including suburbs and villages around the city. It was home to a major textile industry, which was one of the biggest companies of textile in the world, with export- ing to many countries in the Middle East, Asia and Eu- rope. Although the factory stopped working some years ago, it is planned to run it again by the end of 2011. Ghaemshahr has many industrial towns around and is full of different type of factories. Although the city is not famous for its beauty, it is a good base to explore the region, as most of Mazandaran and Caspian coast is very beautiful. The city is full of apartment buildings and shops but not a lot of attractive places for tourists, although there are many beautiful nat- ural places around the city.

17.2 Get in

17.3 Get around

17.4 See

17.5 Do

17.6 Buy

17.7 Eat

17.8 Drink

48 Chapter 18

Gorgan

Gorgan is a city in the Caspian Region in Iran. 18.10 Connect

18.1 Understand 18.11 Stay safe

18.2 Get in 18.12 Cope

18.3 Get around 18.13 Go next

18.4 See

• Qajar era underground bathroom Srkhnklath • Ismail Shrine Srkhnklath • Nahar khoran Forest • Ziarat Village • Emadyh School • Great Wall of Gorgan • Hezarpich Hill

18.5 Do

18.6 Buy

Gorgan has a world-famous carpet and rug industry, made by Turkmen. The patterns of these carpets are derived from the ancient Persian city of . Jajim carpets are also crafted in this province.

18.7 Eat

18.8 Drink

18.9 Sleep

49 Chapter 19

Masouleh

Masouleh is a small mountain village in Caspian Iran. ben-ne Ali”.

19.1 Get in

Minibus or savari from Fuman which is reachable by same mean of transport from Rasht. There are daily buses from Rasht to Tehran. There is also a direct bus con- nection from Tehran to Fuman and back but it might be harder to find.

19.2 Get around

A view of Masouleh 19.3 See

Masouleh architecture is unique. The buildings have been built into the mountain and are interconnected. Court- 19.4 Do yards and roofs both serve as pedestrian areas similar to streets. Masouleh does not allow any motor vehicles to Hiking enter, due to its unique layout. It is the only village in There is a path on the other side of the village. It is a very Iran with such a . However, the small streets nice walk. and many stairs simply also wouldn't make it possible for vehicles to enter. The spectacular architecture of Masouleh is well-known as “The yard of the above building is the roof of the below 19.5 Buy building”. Yellow clay coats the exterior of most buildings in Ma- 19.6 Eat souleh. This allows for better visibility in the fog. Buildings are mostly 2 stories (1st floor and below floor) There are restaurants catering for tourists. Also, you can made of adobe, rods and bole. Small living room, big buy tasty fresh made bread from market, other supplies Guest room, winter room, Hall, WC and Balcony are usu- from a couple of shops and prepare something to eat your- ally found in 1st floor. Cold closet, barn and stable are self. located at below floor that attaches to the upper floor by several narrow steps inside the building. There are four main local communities at the village 19.7 Drink named: “Maza-var” (meaning: beside the Mosque) at the south, “Khana-var” (meaning: beside homes) at the East, “-sar” (meaning: stretched on top) at the North, 19.8 Sleep and, “Assa-mahala” (meaning: Assad community) at the West. Apparently down-town is the Market (Bazaar) area Many people in the village rent out rooms and this is prob- and also the main mosque of the village, named: “O-ne- ably the cheapest and most atmospheric way to spend the

50 19.10. GO NEXT 51 night. There is a couple of small hotels which have de- cent size rooms with bathroom and . In the bottom of the village there is a larger hotel but it is not recom- mended.

19.9 Connect

There is no internet cafes but there are public telephones available.

19.10 Go next Chapter 20

Ramsar

Ramsar is a city on the Caspian coast of Iran. It is a 20.7 Drink popular sea resort for Iranian tourists. The town offers hot springs, the green forests of the Alborz Mountains, and the Ramsar Palace (vacation palace]] of the last Shah). 20.8 Sleep

20.1 Get in

20.2 Get around

20.3 See

• Markooh spectacular views • Javaherdeh Village which is an important tourist attraction in . It offers beautiful scenery of seemingly endless green fields, snow- capped mountains, vast dense woods, rolling green hills and pictoresque north-Iranian farms and vil- Ramsar Grand Hotel lages. The houses in this area of Iran has unlike many other areas of Iran roofs that are tilted rather than flat. • Hotel Ramsar • Tamashagage Jhazar 20.9 Connect 20.4 Do 20.10 Go next • The Sea Park that reaches to the beach is a good place for a stroll. Twenty-seven kilometres south of Ramsar and 2700 me- • The Casino ters above sea level in the Alborz mountains is Javaher Deh village, which is an important tourist attraction in • Ramsar Plaza Complex (Telecabine). including Ramsar county. telecabine, seashore, restaurant, coffeshops, shop- ping center, Funfar, etc. • Hot Spring

20.5 Buy

20.6 Eat

• Tooska restaurant

52 Chapter 21

Rasht

Rasht is a city in the north of Iran around 40 kilometers 21.3 See from the shore of the Caspian Sea. Rasht is known in Iran for its beauty and its parks. People for all around the • The Shahrdari is Rasht’s most identifiable land- country come there to experience much wetter and colder mark, its colonial style tempered by a token mini- climate than the rest of the country. All in all Rasht and topping a distinctive whitewashed tower. It it’s surroundings offer a starkly different experience from looks great when floodlit at night. southern Iran. • Rasht Museum is small, but well presented in a 1930s house. Its mannequin displays illustrate Gi- laki lifestyle, amid a selection of 3000-year-old ter- 21.1 Get in racotta riton drinking horns in the shape of bulls, rams and deer. Supping from such vessels suppos- edly endowed the drinker with the powers and skills 21.1.1 By Air of the animal depicted.

There are a few daily flights from Tehran. Most of these • Golsar is a high-class district with many shops, depart either early in the morning or late afternoon. See- restaurants, boutiques, and coffee-shops, and is a ing the Alborz mountains from the air is quite an experi- very popular neighborhood for teenagers and young ence. There is a direct flight to Dubai adults to meet and socialize with peers, particularly on Thursday and Friday nights. The suburb used to be a very small town, which had a chain gate and se- 21.1.2 By Bus curity guards at its entrance until 1979. During the past couple of decades the demand for housing in Golsar has increased and the area has grown rapidly. Like everywhere in Iran Rasht is well connected with It is now the most expensive place in Rasht to pur- Tehran and neighboring towns by bus. Argentine and chase a house or apartment. Azadi Terminals are two main bus stations in Tehran which connect capital to Rasht. There are several buses • Shahre-yaran urban district all day long and it costs only about 5 dollars. Having an iranian credit card, it is possible to buy tickets online from • Manzariyeh urban district some companies, such as Royall Safar Iranian. The jour- • Tarditional Bazaar ney usually takes 6 hours. • The excellent Gilan Rural Heritage Museum is 18km south of Rasht (2km off the Qazvin high- 21.1.3 By Shared Taxi way). Six full homesteads complete with rice barns are already ‘active’ in 150 hectares of woodland. On open days, local crafts (thatching, mat-making, Shared taxis (Savaris) plow the Caspian coast so getting to cloth-weaving) are displayed and there are tight- Rasht from anywhere in that area. A good choice for a trip rope walking mini-shows. from Tehran would be a shared taxi or bus to Chalus, a spectacular route through the Alborz mountains and then • Mirza Kouchak Khan Tomb a savari from Chalus to Rasht. • Mirza Kouchak Khan House The horseman statue is Kuchuk Khan, the Jangali leader of 'Soviet Iran'. A steady flow of well-wishers visit his mausoleum on 21.2 Get around Manzariyeh St, sheltered by a contemporary brick gazebo with intricate wooden roof.

53 54 CHAPTER 21. RASHT

• Danaye Ali Tomb is topped with a faceted 21.6 Eat of blue tiling.

• National Library was the First Public Library of Rasht and the surrounding towns of the Caspian province Iran. are a great place to try still-warm, walnut-filled koloocheh . Look for stores selling cookies with round pat- • Sabz-e Meydan square terns embossed on them.

• Park-e Shahr City Central Park Bijan’s (Gaz square) restaurant is a surprise. After hav- ing kebab for dinner all the time all over Iran this place • Saravan Natural Park will be welcome with wonderful italian dishes. , piz- zas and meat dishes all cheap and exquisitely done. • Hashem Tomb You can buy some kind of DOOGHs, the traditional drink of the area... but [Sara] is the most famous Doogh 21.4 Do in Iran.

Firstly you must go & see the area named as Golsar in the north of the city, it’s the most modernized section of the 21.7 Sleep city, you can find the youth roaming over there, beauti- ful shops & restaurants, & other occasions make you find 21.7.1 Hotels yourself in a European country in the middle of an Asian civilization. • Kâdous Grand Hotel (4 Stars): +98-131-3223075 is a suburb to 9 (A double room by Jan 2013: 1'330'000 Rials ( ﺮﺎﺴﻠﮔ :Golsar pronaunced golsâr (Persian of Rasht, the capital of the northern Iranian province of around 45 US$) Guilan. Golsar used to be a very small neighborhood so that a chain gate had been put at the entrance before 1979. • Ordibehesht Hotel (2 Stars): +98-131-2229210 to 1 A few security guards were always monitoring and taking care of this gate. During the past couple of decades the • Pâmchâl Hotel (2 Stars): +98-131-6603031 to 4 demand for living in Golsar raised so that the area of this • neighborhood started to grow rapidly. This area of Rasht Hotel (2 Stars): +98-131-3231101 to 5 is now the most expensive place in the city to purchase • a house or apartment. Golsar is filled with many shops, Kayvân Hotel (1 Star): +98-131-2222967 restaurants, boutiques and coffee shops, and is the most popular place for teenagers and young adults to meet and socialize with peers. This crowd is due to an opportunity 21.7.2 Mid-range for young girls and guys to meet each other and exchange their phone numbers for either long-term or short-term The hotel Ordibehesht (off Shohada square) is a cen- relationships. trally located hotel offering twin rooms with bathroom for around IR 110,000 per night. The building is remi- niscent of a palace in a horror movie but the rooms are • Masouleh historical village is a spectacular little vil- all right. The reception can arrange fairly cheap taxi tours lage built on such a steep slope that the roads inside all over the area. the village lie on the roofs of the houses below. A walk around town is very pleasant.

• Bandar-e-Anzali is Iran’s main Caspian port. You 21.7.3 Budget will see fish markets and large ships from the other countries around the Caspian. For IR 200,000 per There are a cluster of cheap, centrally-located mosafer- hour for an entire boat you can go on a motorboat khanehs clustered just south of Shahrdari Square, off ride through the harbor and into the large lagoon. Emam Khomeini Street. As with other such establish- The boat drivers often suggest that since you are in ments, many of them suffer noise and cleanliness prob- “Lagoonland” women should be allowed to remove lems. their headscarves. It is a good opportunity since af- ter wearing the scarf for long a breeze through the • Until now Caravan Guest House (signposted as hair on a motorboat is most welcome! Karavan Gesting House) has been the most popular with travellers, because of its cheap rooms--singles (IR 47,000), doubles (from IR 50,000) and triples 21.5 Buy (from IR 80,000)--available both with, and without private bathrooms. 21.9. GO NEXT 55

21.8 Stay safe

Iran is generally a safe country. It is advised however, that being an obvious tourist may attract some unwanted attention from interested Iranians, but do not be alarmed or react negatively. Standard advice to keep your bag se- cured and safe, and to leave personal and valuable belong- ings in your hotel room or hotel safe should be regarded. Iranians are generally peaceful, hospitable people, but it is advised to act with caution when walk in the streets alone late at night or when approached by strangers to the same degree that you would in your native country. You might want to have plastic money to prevent having your money stolen. Bank-e Melli-ye Iran (National Bank of Iran) which is a government-owned bank in Iran, pro- vides an ATM debit card service (plastic magnetic card) for tourists who visit Iran. Tourists just need to head the nearest branch of this bank. Information on this service can be found here. Another way to prevent having your money stolen, is going to the nearest bank and getting a gift card. They are exactly like ordinary ATM debit cards, but once they get empty, they cannot be recharged. Sepah Bank or Bank -e- Sepah is a governmental bank that has a current account service for foreigners which provides both ATM debit card and cheque writing option. A list of permitted Iranian banks can be found here

21.8.1 Emergency services phone numbers

• Police: 110 • Fire department: 125

• EMS: 115 • Road EMS: 115 or 112

21.9 Go next

Masooleh historical village Chapter 22

Sari

Sari is in the beautiful Caspian region of Iran with about half million people residing in the town and same amount in the suburbs, located mainly on the left side of Ta- jan River and about 20 kilometers south of the Caspian (Mazandaran) Sea. Sari is also located in the north of Iran on northern slops of Elburz mountains. Sari boasts as ancient city, as all of the historical maps referring to this city, being the capital of Ancient Hyrcania Civiliza- tion 6 centuries before Christ and Kingdom of Tabaria till 17 century, Also twice capital of Iran within the last four centuries, Sari as well as some towns in Mazandaran is one of rare cities of Iran that night life is available during summers. Many people enjoy gathering each other in some places such as Barbod, Paradise, Tooska and Nemashown to play games, enjoy music and pleasant weather, or eat- ing meals. Or to read some poetry book such as Diwan-i Hafiz. You also find many of restaurants in city center (specially Farhang Street) and a restaurant in the Tavakol alley which provides Italian dishes.

22.1 Understand Location map of Sari • Population: 568,214 (Est.2006)

• Elevation: 50 m The fare is about USD$20. Also weekly flight destina- tions to Mashhad and Saudi Arabia. Airport is located in • Area: 5089 km² the northeast and less than 10 kilometers from city cen- ter. Shared and Airport taxis are available in the airport • Religion: Islam, Zoroastrianism, Christian parking. There is highway being under construction to • Language: Mazandarani (Tabarian), Persian, and connect the airport and city directly. some Turkmen. 22.2.2 By train 22.2 Get in The city is connected to Gorgan and Tehran by train as well, since it is on a major branch of the Iran’s Rail- 22.2.1 By plane road. Every day there are four passenger trains getting to sari, one Local train runs from Gorgan about 6 AM • Dasht-e Naz International Airport. Four daily and gets sari before 9 AM, and returns from Sewatcow in flights in the summer season and six weekly flights 1 PM to getting sari in 2:30 PM, one from Tehran runs in other seasons scheduled to and from the Iranian in 9:10 AM everyday to getting sari about 4:30 PM, and Capital. left sari in 8:30 (Summers) and 9:10 (Winters) to getting

56 22.4. SEE 57

Tehran about 4 AM, There are Twin Mazandaran trains 22.3.1 By car which have Gorgan destination running from Tehran, one runs from Tehran in about 7:30 PM (Winters) and 10:10 Parking may not found in the avenues of Sari, and parking (Summers) to getting sari about 3:30 AM (Winters) and is usually in the small streets and allies, or have a small about 5:50 AM (Summers) and another at the same time entrance from avenues. It is recommended to park your gets sari about 10:45 (Summers) and 9:10 (Winters) to car in your hotel’s parking. getting Tehran about 7 AM (Summers) and 5:30 (Win- Driving may be an option for going to some sights in ters). Be aware that the scheduled program of Twin Gor- the suburbs such as Soleyman Tanga (meaning Strait of gan destination trains are changing periodically, However Solomon), or Masandaran Sea. Destinations which are sari destination train gets the city about 4 PM for more of primary concern to a visitor are the Caves from 70th than 70 years. millennium BC and towers of dynasties of Tabarian Kingdom. 22.2.3 By car • Huto Cave There are many automobile and car routes from the Main • Kamarband Cave cities next or near by sari. Sari is connected to and Shahi by the A62 Autobahn, All of the Coastal • Xorshid Dabo’s Private Cave cities in Mazandaran have at least 8 bands (4 forward • and 4 backward). Many of people are visiting sari via The Resket Tower from the Karen Pawand era Turkmenistan-Mazandaran (Iran) borders, it is possible • The Ladjim Tower from the Dabuyans era to getting Visa of Iran from border, and to continue trip around Mazanderan Sea. • The Farrah-Abad Complex Place

22.2.4 By bus 22.4 See

There are five bus terminals in Sari. So its easy to get Notable are Famous Houses such as Kolbadi House and around in the county by buses. City buses has destinations Amir Divan House (Ramedani House) , Archaeolog- to approximately all of the towns in Iran, but be aware ical sites including Hutto Cave (70th millennium BC), that the buses are not running everyday, but it has hourly Kamarband Cave (70th-millennium BC); also the Res- buses for Tehran, Also it is possible to getting the bus ket Tower from the Qaran era and the Farahabad Com- from the IMAM KHOMEINI SQ. located in the south plex Place from the Safavid era. east of city when no bus may be founded in the busy days. The fare to getting to Tehran must not more than 3.5 USD • $ (February 2006) The restored 125-year-old Khaneh Kolbadi is rem- iniscent of an 18th-century khan’s palace. Thick walls kept the lower floor warm in winter while the 22.2.5 By boat light, bright upper floor could be opened to through drafts for hot summers. Its orosi windows (wood- The port of is located on the beautiful south- framed puzzles of multicoloured glass) supposedly ern coast of the Mazandaran Sea. however the cruise is disorientated mosquitoes. The building is slated to not high quality and may not preferred. become a museum incorporating the historic Vasir-e Hamam (bathhouse) behind. • Haaj Mostafa Khan Mosque 22.3 Get around • The unusual Jameh Mosque has traditional Mazan- darani tiled roofs, but from outside looks more like The spreading of the city makes taxis available almost ev- a medieval Italian prison. erywhere. There is a wide choice of taxi systems includ- ing ceremony taxis, wireless telecommunication taxis, • Tomb of Yaha airport or rail station taxis, telephony taxis and shared • taxis. You may call 133 from every where of the city and Tomb of Zeinol Aabedain county to asking for taking you from anywhere in Sari in • Tomb of Abbas less than five minutes or taking you from approximately 20 kilometers far distances (requires first registration) and • The Clock Tower even to serving you getting any destination around iran, So if a tourist would like to stay more than a week in Sari, registration with this office is recommended. • Badab-e Surt 58 CHAPTER 22. SARI

22.5.1 Sports

There are Many sports complexes in Sari. Most popu- lar are Jahan-Pahlavan Takhti Sports Complex, Hashemi- Nassab Sports Complex, and Montazeri Sports complex.

• Wrestling. Sari is the birthplace of lots of popular wrestlers and athletes, and it was the big host of the 2006 World Wrestling Competitions. It has the ma- jor fieldhouse, Seyyed Hosseyni Coliseum, which is known throughout Iran as an outstanding place for wrestling.

22.6 Learn

Today, Sari is one of the most cultural cities in Iran. Here are a few Universities just to mention:

• University of Agriculture

• Mazandaran University of Medical Science Badab-e Surt (MazUMS)

22.5 Do • University of Natural Science

• There are many Places to go in Sari. Here are just a few: Sarian University of Art & Architecture

• Payam-e-Noor University • Farah Abad Coast • • Gohar Baran Coast University of Tech & Engineering

• Derya Kenar Coast • University of Tarbiyat-e Modaress • Khezer Shahr Coast • Sama Technology Faculty of Azad University • Dehkadeh Aramesh Tourist Village • Tajan River Park 22.7 Buy • Zare' Forest Park If you want to buy food, Sari is based on food such as • Salardareh Forest Park cakes, rice, and fruits. Some companies in Sari • Dasht-E-Naaz National Park (The wood and paper company) are famous in the Middle East. If you want to buy a home in Sari, Sari’s prices range • Pol-e-Gardan hiking trail from normal to really expensive. Most neighborhoods are quite expensive because of the great weather. • Nemashoun Lake

• -Dasht Lake 22.8 Eat • Soleyman-Tangeh Lake

• Bam-e-Shahr Hill (offers a great panoramic view of If you are in Sari, fish is the best way to go. If you're the city) not really interested in fish, Kebab shops are scattered all over the city. Don't forget a meal in this city would not be • Qor-Maraz (natural spa, Neka) complete without salads and Bread (Iranian Bread). 22.11. CONNECT 59

22.9 Drink 22.10.1 Mazandaran Sea Resorts

The favourite drink of Sari in winter is Caspian Tea Although many residents prefer to using governmental (Chay), it is available almost everywhere around the city, villas in the Farrah Abad. But these resorts may not pro- especially in winter. In summer when it is hot and humid, vide sleeping to foreigners, but it is recommended to us- Doogh a traditional yoghurt drink is also available. The ing Babolsar hotels, which are about 35 km far from Sari Local Cola (ZamZam) is also available. via Bahnamier Road and about 60 km in nights via A62 autobahn, They have the view of Sea, Please note that they may not be available or by cheap fare during busy 22.10 Sleep days.

• Salardarreh Hotel, located in Km.17 of Kiyasar Rd. (South), located in the heart of forests with 22.11 Connect exclusive views of forests and surrounding hills and valleys. Many Norwegians, Germans, and Swedish There are many Internet cafés and chat rooms scattered all people are residents of this hotel most of the times, over the city, the Internet speeds ranges from acceptable English is guaranteed to be spoken, has a local to fast. To finding high speed internet providers yourself, church for religious practices. The fare is reason- look that if it has server or not, Foreigners usually use the able since it is semi private hotel. Cafes around the Time Square. • Narenj Hotel, located in Km. 5 of Darya Rd. (North). Good for Spring especially April and May months, since you can open the windows of 22.12 Stay safe its rooms and sleep by the balmy and Yasmin dis- tributed air. Sari is relatively a very safe city, even in the middle of the • Badeleh, Located in Km.10th of Neka Rd. (East) night, so don't let this worry or bother you at all during Most of the suites are pre reserved and tourists rarely your stay in Sari. If you are in trouble you can ask for help find the chance to using this hotel. by calling police at 110 or Emergency medical services at 115 or Fire department at 125. • Mazandaran Hotel Associate, Located in 21st Al- You might want to have plastic money to prevent having ley, Ferdowsi St. It is not preferred however has your money stolen. Bank-e Melli-ye Iran (National Bank cheap fares for one night accommodation. of Iran) which is a government-owned bank in Iran, pro- • Mazraeh, Located in Km. 7th of Qaemshahr Rd. vides an ATM debit card service (plastic magnetic card) (West) Offers villa structured rooms. for tourists who visit Iran. Tourists just need to head the nearest branch of this bank. Information on this service • Sarooyah Apartments, in Taleghani Blvd. has can be found here. Another way to prevent having your cheap and comfortable Guestrooms, Getting twin money stolen, is going to the nearest bank and getting a sleeping service room with Air conditioner, refrig- gift card. They are exactly like ordinary ATM debit cards, erator and private bath room must not reach more but once they get empty, they cannot be recharged. Sepah than 10 USD. Forigen residents who speak English Bank or Bank -e- Sepah is a governmental bank that has usually rent this hotel but there is no guarantee that a current account service for foreigners which provides secretary speaks English. both ATM debit card and cheque writing option. A list of permitted Iranian banks can be found here • Sari Residential Complex, Located in Peivandi Alley, Farhang St. Is a reasonable hospitality cen- ter, with clean and hospitable employees. 22.13 Cope • Asram Hotel, located next to Tajan Bridge. Very expensive hotel with lack of some services and hos- If you don't know Mazandarani or Persian, don't let this pitaly. German is also spoken along with English. bother you or make you worried, there are many foreign- Especially it is guaranteed during summers. ers and Iranians there who speak English in the city. Also it is recommended to appreciate the native people who are Along with Hotels there are too many guest rooms not able to talk to you in English with these Mazandarani (Mehman Pazir) are available specially in the Nader sentences: Tie Fieda or Tie ri Bielaarremi, but please Street (-ye Eslami Street) in the city center and extend your voice like singing since people can better un- next to the Tajan bridge. derstood while they extend their voice. 60 CHAPTER 22. SARI

22.14 Go next Chapter 23

Iranian Azerbaijan

Iranian Azerbaijan (Persian and Azerbaijani: • is in the extreme northwest of Iran, by (آذربایجان the border with the country and former Soviet Republic • Maku of Azerbaijan. •

• Maraghe

•

• Sardroud

• Takab — Takht-e Soleyman, a Zoroastrian fire tem- ple and a UNESCO World Heritage site, is located nearby

23.2 Other destinations

23.3 Understand Four provinces in Iranian Azerbaijanː West Azerbaijan (west), East Azerbaijan (middle north), Ardebil (east), and Zanjan Iranian Azerbaijan is traditionally inhabited by Turkic (south). Azeri people. The region’s formation in its current bor- ders dates back to Turkmanchay Treaty of 1828. By the treaty, Iran (Persia) ceded to Russia control of several Ira- 23.1 Cities nian Azerbaijani areas in the South Caucasus, which is now an independent country known as Azerbaijan Re- public. The boundary between and Iran 23.1.1 Provincial capitals (Persia) was set at the river.

• Ardabil - is capital of . This region, especially eastern parts of it, is probably one of the most beautiful places in Iran. The region is known • Tabriz — is the most populated city in Iranian Azer- for its friendly people, and also known for the great food. baijan, it is capital of and Iranian Azerbaijan is comprised of Ardabil Province, a major regional hub. , as well as East and West Azerbaijan • Urmia — is capital of West Azerbaijan province. . • Zanjan - is capital of Zanjan province. 23.3.1 Talk 23.1.2 Other major cities Azeri people of Iran are mostly bilingual. They are flu- • Kandovan — small village with houses carved in the ent in their native language, Azeri Turkish, and also the rocks like in Cappadocia, Turkey official language of Iran, Persian.

61 62 CHAPTER 23. IRANIAN AZERBAIJAN

23.4 Get in

23.4.1 By plane

International Airport

Tabriz Railway Station

• Tabriz Railway Station, Rah-Aahn Sq., Tabriz (W 5 km of city center of Tabriz). Domestic trains: There are comfortable night trains from Tabriz to Tehran(12 hrs travel, 152,500 Rials for 1-way ) passing Maraghe (2 hrs), Zanjan (9 hrs) and Qazvin. Tabriz International Airport. There is a 2nd class sleeping train (6 people in one room) that leaves Tabriz at 8.30PM and arrives to Tabriz International Airport is the only international Air- Tehran at 9.30 AM. Price is 40 000 IR. The more port in Iranian Azerbaijan which has flight to some of comfortable choice is to take 1st class train for 170 Iranian cities as well as some of the neighboring coun- 000 IR. This train leaves at 5.30 PM and arrives tries. to Tehran at 6 AM. There are 4 bed-rooms with TV and dinner is included in that price. To get the • Tabriz International Airport (IATA: TBZ)(10 km ticket you need to use some of travel agencies in the of the city center of Tabriz). is a regional hub with city or in the train station (this option only for re- domestic flights to Tehran, Mashad, and some other cent day registration). There is a weekly train goes major cities of Iran and with flights to some neigh- from Tehran to Istanbul which has a stop in Tabriz boring countries. as well. For more info visit Iranian Passenger Rail- way or Travel Site about trains Seat61. International trains: Weekly train to/from Istanbul, twice a week Domestic Airports to Van, see Turkish Railway’s site. • Urmia Airport (IATA: OMH)(North East of Urmia.). 23.4.4 By bus • Ardabil Airport (IATA: ADU)(North east of There are bus lines from Provincial Capitals: Tabriz, Ardabil). Ardabil, Urmia, and Zanjan to major Iranian cities. There are minibus lines for connecting the smaller cities • Zanjan Airport (IATA: JWN)(North west of to the provincial capitals of Iranian Azerbaijan. Zanjan).

• Airport (IATA: ACP)(130 km South of • Tabriz Main Bus Terminal, Niyayesh Blvd., Tabriz). Tabriz (S 3 km of city center), ☎ (+98-41) 34796091. 23.4.2 By car

By the newly built bridge over the Urmia lake Tabriz is 23.5 Get around reachable from Urmia in 1.5 hours. 23.6 See 23.4.3 By train • The UNESCO World Heritage site Armenian Some of the Iranian Azerbaijan cities have access to the Monastic Ensembles of Iran. It consists of three railway includingː Tabriz, Maraghe, , and Jolfa. 7th century Armenian Christian buildings in the 23.11. GO NEXT 63

St.Stepanos monastery

region — the monasteries of St. Thaddeus, St. Stepanos as well as the .

23.6.1 Itineraries

23.7 Do

23.8 Eat

• Bonanb Kabab, is a big skew type kabab with ingre- dient of local spices, onion and beef. It named after city in south of Tabriz.

• Chelo-Kabab, a dish of rice with ground beef kabab. • Kofte-e-Tabrizi, a big with ingredient of ground beef, rice, and herbd. • Lighvan cheese, is a domestic feta cheese from Liq- van village in south east of Tabriz.

23.9 Drink

23.10 Stay safe

23.11 Go next Chapter 24

Ardabil

Ardabil is historical city in Ardabil (province) in • Imamzadeh Saleh mausoleum The mausoleum of Azerbaijan region of Iran. Imamzadeh Saleh who is a descendant of a Shia Imam was built 250 years ago.

• Saint Mary church This Armenian orthodox 24.1 Understand church has a beautiful wooden main door and painted dome built in 1876.

24.2 Get in • Mausoleum of Sheikh Jebra'il • Babadavood anbaran- friday mosque 24.2.1 By car

24.3 Get around 24.5 Do

24.4 See 24.6 Buy

• The complex of Sheikh Safi-ad-din Ardabili is 24.7 Eat a World Heritage Site, comprising the following components: the of Sheikh Safi and Shah , Chini khaneh (meaning the house lots of good food of chinaware), a mosque, Jannat Sara (meaning the house of paradise), Khanaqah (the house of Dervishes), Cheragh Khaneh (the house of lamps), 24.8 Drink Shahid khaneh (the house of martyrs) and Chelleh Khaneh (the place where devotees shut themselves up during the forty days of Lent). The mausoleum 24.9 Sleep of Sheikh Safi, the dome of which is called “Allah- Allah” has an octagonal interior. 24.10 Connect • Masjid Jameh Ruins of once magnificent and unique Mosque. 24.11 Go next • Mirza Ali Akbar mosque and school This comlex dates back to Qajar period

• Ardabil Bazaar This beautiful Persian bazaar was built during Safavid period and in addition to main bazaar hall with open vaults has a and a small yet mystifying mosque.

• Ardabil bridges Ardabil host numerous historical bridges namely Pol-e Gilandeh, Pol-e Nayer, Pol- e Haft Cheshmeh, Pol-e Panj Cheshmeh and Pol-e She Cheshmeh and Qarah Soo Bridge, most were built during Safavid era.

64 Chapter 25

Kandovan

Kandovan is historic village with houses carved in the rocks in Azerbaijan region of Iran.

Kandovan: Input City

Kandovan view stone houses

25.1 Understand

Kandovan is known for its rock-cut architecture, partic- ularly its cliff dwellings. The architecture is similar to that of Cappadocian Turkey, with the exception that the houses in Kandovan are still occupied by people.

25.2 Get in Beautiful view of the mountain opposite Kandovan

25.2.1 By car 25.6 Buy

Going by car from close Tabriz is easiest way to get there. It will take around one hour. 25.7 Eat

25.8 Drink 25.3 Get around 25.9 Sleep 25.4 See Kandovan Tourism Cliff (Rocky) Hotel (5 star) is located 25.5 Do at the heart of the village. It is the first of its kind in Iran and the second in the world after Turkey’s rocky hotel.

65 66 CHAPTER 25. KANDOVAN

25.10 Connect

25.11 Go next Chapter 26

Maku

Maku is a city in Iranian Azerbaijan. 26.5 Do

• Hiking - it is advisable to have a guide or stay within eyesight of the town. Due to its proximity to the Turkish border, it is easy to cross the border unin- tentionally.

• Rock climbing- There are numerous rock climbing sites at the northern part of the city, some exceeding 200 meters. View on Maku from the castle

26.6 Buy 26.1 Understand 26.7 Eat 26.2 Get in 26.8 Drink 26.2.1 By car 26.9 Sleep 26.3 Get around 26.10 Connect 26.4 See 26.11 Go next • Baqcheh Jooq Palace (7 km northwest of central Maku). Palace situated in a vast garden covering about 11 hectares. It was built at the end of Qa- jar dynasty under the orders of Iqbal-ol-Saltaneh Makui, one of the commanders of Mozafaredin Shah. It used to be the house of the local gover- nor until 1974. And now it functions as a museum displaying some carpets and local handicrafts.

• Ruins of a fortress are folded into a ledge of the high cliff that towers above the town centre

• Panj Cheshmeh is a bridge is located 5 km. from Maku on the Zangmar River, and is a monument from the Safavid era. This bridge was constructed in order to facilitate communications between Tabriz and Maku, and the surrounding rural areas

67 Chapter 27

Maragheh

Maragheh is a city in and the capital of , East Azerbaijan Province, Iran.

Recently built observatory in the place of .

27.1 Understand

Most of the Maragheh residents consider themselves Ira- nian Azerbaijani. Maragheh was the capital of Ilkhanid Dynasty for a short time in thirteenth century.

Guy-Gunbad 27.2 Get in 27.4 See 27.2.1 By train

Maragheh is on the railway route between Tabriz and Tehran.

27.2.2 By bus

There are buses from Tehran and Tabriz.

27.2.3 By plane

Sahand airport has weekly flights from Tehran

27.3 Get around Sufi River passes through the middle of the city.

68 27.10. CONNECT 69

27.10 Connect

27.11 Go next

Tabriz

Qirmizi-Gunbad

-is an in .(رصدخانه Maragheh Observatory (Faː • stitutionalized astronomical observatory which was established in 1259 CE under the patronage of the Ilkhanid Hulagu and the directorship of Nasir al-Din al-Tusi, a Persian scientist and astronomer. Located in the heights west of Maragheh, East Azerbaijan Province, Iran, it was once considered one of the most prestigious observatories in the world. is a tower .(گنبد سرخ Qirmizi Gunbad (Faː • belong to Sajoughi period (12th century). is the grave for .(گنبد کبودGuy Gunbad (Faː • Halgu Khan (first ruler of Ilkhanid Dynasty) built in 13th century.

27.5 Do

27.6 Buy

27.7 Eat

27.8 Drink

27.9 Sleep Chapter 28

Sardroud

is a city 28.5 Talk (سردری :Azerbaijani ,سردرود :Sardroud (Persian of East Azerbaijan province, in the Azerbaijan region of Iran. Sardroud is one of the major cities of Azerbaijan is the primary language spoken by most peo- and located in the South West of Tabriz county. ple in Azerbaijan, although many people, especially among the younger generation, can communicate in Farsi and English to some extent. 28.1 Understand

28.1.1 People 28.6 See

Most of the Sardroud residents consider themselves Ira- nian . 28.7 Do

28.2 Talk 28.8 Buy

The majority of locals speak Turkish with a 'Sardroud' • If you want to spend lots of money, the Sardroud accent, and most people can also speak Farsi as a second pictorial rugs are among the finest in the world, and language and Azerbaijani. Most of the young people of you will find masterpieces in shops and inside the this city can speak English at an intermediate level. Basij street or Sangestan street. Sardroud rugs are among the most decorative rugs.

28.3 Get in 28.9 Eat 28.3.1 By plane

• Tabriz International Airport (IATA: TBZ), 28.10 Sleep Bolvar-e-Shahid Khalaban Babayi (10 km of the city center), ☎ (+98 411)523 4705. This is a hub airport The city is located 10 kilometers from Tabriz because of for Ata Airlines. that there is no hotel in Sardroud.

28.3.2 By car 28.11 Connect By the newly built bridge over the Urmia lake Sardroud is reachable from Urmia in 1.5 hours. 28.11.1 Phone

28.3.3 By train An Iranian phone number is of the form +98 12 3456- 7890 where “98” is the country code for Iran, the next 2 digits are the area code and the remaining 8 digits are the 28.3.4 By bus “local” part of the subscriber number that can be called from within that particular area code using abbreviated 28.4 Get around dialing. Telecom Center of this city located in Taleghani St.

70 28.12. GO NEXT 71

28.11.2 Mobile

Mobile numbers in Iran must always be dialed with all 11 digits (including a “0” prefixing the “9nn” within Iran), no matter where they are being called from. The 9nn is a mobile prefix, not an “area code”, as such and the sec- ond and third digits denote the original mobile network assigned.

28.12 Go next

• Tabriz • Kandovan — small village with houses carved in the rocks like in Cappadocia, Turkey • Maraghe

• Osku • Urmia — capital of West Azerbaijan province Chapter 29

Tabriz

three smaller rivers, namely the Ab Nahand, Quri Chai, and Ojan Chai, all of which originate from the Mountain and the heights in the southeastern part of the town. The river and streams join the Orumieh Lake af- ter passing through the valleys between the Sorkhband and Yekkeh Chin mountain north of Tabriz and Osku dis- trict. River or Maidan Chai, also called Liqvan River, originates from the peaks between Karim and Sul- tan mountains overlooking the Liqvan village (a: major center of cheese production in Iran) near Esparakhoun and Qeshlaq. Its worst natural disadvantage, however, is its vulnerability to earthquakes, one of which utterly de- stroyed the city in 858. Rebuilt in a minor key, it was again devastated in 1041, when more than 40,000 people Aerial view of East of Tabriz. lost their lives.

Azerbaijani: Təbriz) is the ,تبریز :Tabriz (Persian capital of East Azerbaijan province, in the Azerbaijan re- 29.1.3 Climate gion of Iran. It is a modern industrialized Iranian city with signs of civilization dating back 2,500 years. Hav- By virtue of its situation, Tabriz has a continental climate ing some of most famous museums, holding some of the with low humidity (average annual rain fall is 288 mm). cultural events, and harboring a couple of the most pres- It has a modestly warm summer climate and a severely tigious Iranian universities, the city is considered a major cold winter. hub for science and culture in Iran.

29.1.4 History 29.1 Understand The town has along and checkered history: Although the 29.1.1 People early history of Tabriz is shrouded in legend and mystery, the town’s origins are believed to date back to distant an- Most of the Tabriz residents consider themselves Iranian tiquity, perhaps even before the Sassanian era (224-651 Azerbaijani. AD). The oldest stone tablet with a reference to Tabriz is that of Sargon II, the Assyrian King. The tablet refers to a place called Tauri Castle and Tarmkis. The historians be- 29.1.2 Geography lieve that this castle was situated on the site of the present Tabriz. It was the capital of Azarbin the 3rd century Situated at an altitude of 1,340 meters above sea level, AD and again under the Mongol Ilkhanid dynasty (1256- 619 km northwest of Tehran, the second largest city in 13 53), although for some time Maragheh supplanted it. Iran until the late 1960’s and one of its former capitals ( During the reign of Aqa Khan of the Ilkhanids, as well as with a population of 1,400,000 according to 1992 cen- under the reign of Ghazan Khan, Tabriz reached the peak sus), Tabriz is in a valley to the north of the long ridge of 1 glory and Impotance. Many great artists and philoso- of Mount Sahand. The valley opens out into a plain that phers from allover the world traveled to Tabriz. During slopes down gently to the northern end of Lake Orumieh, this same period, Khajeh Rashid od-Din Fazlollah, the 60 km to the west. The 160-km long Aji ,Chai or Talkheh learned historian and Minister of Ghazan Khan, built the River is the major river of the city, formed by merging of famous Rob'e Rashidi center.

72 29.3. GET IN 73

In 1392, after the end of Mongol rule, the town was sacked by Tamerlane. It was soon restored under the Turkman tribe of r the , who established a short-lived local dynasty. Under the Safavids it rose from regional to national capital for a short period, but the second of the Safavid kings, Shah Tahmasb, moved the capital to Qazvin because of the vulnerability of Tabriz to Ottoman attacks. The town then went into a period of de- cline, fought over by the Iranians, Ottomans and Russians and struck by earthquake and disease. Tabriz was the residence of the crown prince under the Qajar kings, themselves of Turkish stock, but the town did not return to prosperity until the second half of the 19th century. The greatest boost to Tabriz came with the opening up of Persia to the West at the turn of this cen- Tabriz Airport tury, when it became the main staging post between the interior of Iran and the Black Sea and, for a short time, 29.3.1 By plane the economic capital. In 1908 it was the center of a revolt against Mohammad Ali Shah, which was only put down • Tabriz International Airport (IATA: TBZ), with the brutal intervention of the Russians. Bolvar-e-Shahid Khalaban Babayi (10 km of the city center), ☎ (+98 411)523 4705. This is a hub airport In the second Irano-Russian War the city was occupied for Ata Airlines. by the Czar’s troops. However, it was returned to Iran following the signing of the Turkmanchai Treaty, a peace and trade settlement that ended the Irano-Russian War of Airport bus #136 goes to airport from Motahhari st. ev- 1826-1828. The Iranian Constitutional Revolution orig- ery 30-40 minutes. Another option is getting a taxi. inated in Tabriz and culminated during the reign of Mo- Domestic flights hammad Ali Shah of (1779-1925). Sat tar Khan and Baqer Khan were the two most prominent lead- • Ahwaz operated by Iran Air ing figures behind the movement. Tabriz was occupied by • Russians several times in the first half of the 20th century, Bandar Abbas operated by Iran Air including most of both world wars. A railway line to the • Isfahan operated by Iran Air border at Jolfa, built by the expansionist Russians, was of little importance until recently, but it increased in signif- • Mashhad operated by ATA air, Iran Air Tours, Iran icance in the '90s as a result of Iran’s friendlier relations Aseman and with its northern neighbors. • Shiraz - Mon and Fri, operated by Iran Aseman. Fare is 2,200,000 Rials for 1-way. • Daily direct flights to Tehran (Mehrabad Airport) by 29.2 Talk Iran Air, Iran Aseman and other companies. Fare is 490,000 Rials for 1-way.

Azerbaijani or Azeri, a Turkic dialect, is the primary lan- International direct flights to the following destinations guage spoken by most Tabrizis, although many people, exist: especially the younger generation, can communicate in Farsi and English up to some level. • Baghdad - Fri and Mon, operated by ATA air. • Baku - Tue and Sat, operated by Kish Air. • Damascus. 29.3 Get in • Dubai - Tue and Sat, operated by Kish Air (around 200 USD for round trip). Tabriz is 310 km southeast of Bazargan (at the Iran — Turkey frontier), 159 km south of Jolfa on the Iran — • Gaziantep - Tue, operated by Sky Airlines. Azerbaijan Republic border, and can be reached by road, • Istanbul 13 flights per week, operated by Turkish rail (742 km from Tehran, with connections to Europe airlines (7 flights), Iran Air (2 flights) and ATA air and Moscow), air from Tehran, Istanbul and other ma- (4 flights). Fare is around 250 USD for a round trip. jor cities in the region, and highway (Highway number 1 connects Tabriz to Tehran). • 2 flights per week, operated by ATA air. 74 CHAPTER 29. TABRIZ

29.3.2 By car 29.4 Get around

By the newly built bridge over the Urmia lake Tabriz is reachable from Urmia in 1.5 hours.

29.3.3 By train

Tabriz’s El Goli Metro station

City transport, awaiting the Metro currently under con- struction (and still for a long time) is limited to Taxis, shared taxis and buses. Taxis can be chartered for a modest fee (around 20 USD if you need a driver and car for the whole day to visit the region!) Shared taxis are even more of a bargain, but you will need Tabriz Railway Station to speak a few words of Persian and risk your life by step- ping on the side of the road and scream your destination at passing-by Paykans. However, the experience of shar- ing a car with 4 locals of both genders and all ages (+ • Railway Station, Rah-Aahn Sq. (W 5 km of city driver) can be fun! Odds are the fare won't be more than center). Domestic trains: There are comfortable 10 cents (1.000 Rials) for a 10-minutes trip. Some drivers night trains to Tehran(12 hrs travel, 152,500 Rials even refuse to be paid, the pleasure of chatting with a for- for 1-way ) passing Maraghe (2 hrs), Zanjan (9 hrs) eigner about the various plagues of Iran being apparently and Qazvin. There is a 2nd class sleeping train (6 enough to make their day. (be careful of tarof, though) people in one room) that leaves Tabriz at 8.30PM and arrives to Tehran at 9.30 AM. Price is 40 000 Buses are difficult to take (no map, no schedule) and defi- IR. The more comfortable choice is to take 1st class nitely not worth the experience when compared to shared train for 170 000 IR. This train leaves at 5.30 PM taxis despite being quasi-free. and arrives to Tehran at 6 AM. There are 4 bed- rooms with TV and dinner is included in that price. To get the ticket you need to use some of travel 29.5 See agencies in the city or in the train station (this op- tion only for recent day registration). For more info visit Iranian Passenger Railway or Travel Site about 29.5.1 Inside Tabriz trains Seat61. International trains: Weekly train to/from Istanbul, twice a week to Van, see Turkish With a very rich history, Tabriz used to house many his- Railway’s site. torical monuments. Unfortunately, many of them were destroyed in repeated invasions and attacks of foreign forces, negligence of the ruling governments, as well natural disasters such as earthquakes and floods. What 29.3.4 By bus remains now mostly dates back to the Ilkhanids, the Safavids, and the Qajars. Some of the monuments are • Main Bus Terminal, Niyayesh Blvd. (S 3 km unrivaled masterpieces of architecture. The Shahrdari of city center), ☎ (+98-41)34796091. There are Square is the center of the town, on the south-west of bus lines from Tabriz to Iranian major cities includ- which stands the imposing edifice of . The ing: Tehran 6-8 hrs travel time (regular ticket costs railway station (5 km from the center of the town) is at around 150,000 Rials for one-way), Ahvaz 15 hrs, the western edge of the town. The Quri Chai river runs Ardabil 4 hrs, Esfahan 17 hrs, Maku 4 hrs, Maraghe through Tabriz, and most places of interest to the visitor 2 hrs, Qazvin 7 hrs, Shiraz 23 hrs, Zanjan 5 hrs. In- are to the south of this river and alone or north of Imam ternational bust roots include: Baku Azerbaijan 15 Khomeini Avenue. hrs, Istanbul Turkey 33 hrs and Yerevan Armenia 20 hrs. • Saat Tower, Saat Sq., Emam Ave.. Saat Tower is 29.5. SEE 75

Gari Bridge

Saat Tower (Municipality of Tabriz).

Mozzafarieh alley inside .

tures and items from Tabriz' history (in the base- ment), and it also displays carpet family (in first floor). None of the museums is signposted. Free.

• El Goli (locals call it Shah Goli), Shahgoli Blvd. (South east of Tabriz). It is a pool and a building in the middle of the poor. It used to be the summer palace for rulers or the king who ruled in Tabriz. Nowadays it is considered a suburban park with a square artificial pond. In the center, a small hall is on an island and hosts a restaurant. Very nice for eating Blue Mosque some tchelokebab or sip some tea while enjoying the freshness of the park in summer.

the symbol of Tabriz. It was used as the main of- • Blue Mosque (Goy Machid), Near to Mansur fice of the city municipality. Nowadays it is the cite St., Emam Ave (City Center, close to Saat Tower). for the Municipality Museum which displays pic- 9ː00 am till 4ː00 pm. Originally built in 1465, this 76 CHAPTER 29. TABRIZ

mosque was famous because of its blue . It was located next to the Tabriz grand bazaar, on Mota- severely damaged in an earthquake in 1778, leav- hari Ave. During the years leading up to the Con- ing only the entrance . It was reconstructed in stitutional Revolution and afterwards, the house was 1970s by the Iranian Ministry of Culture. Inside of used as the gathering place of the leaders, activists, the mosque was tiled with superb blue ceramic many and the sympathizers of the movement, among them of them destroyed during the earthquake. During Sattar Khan, Baqer Khan, Seqat ol-Eslam and Haji reconstruction which is still in progress many of the Mirza AqaFarshi. The two-story building was con- missing parts replaced by painting instead of tiles. structed in 1868 by Haj Vali Me'mar-e Tabrizi. It Some of the original tiles are the entrance. 150,000 has numerous rooms and halls. The most beautiful Rials. parts of the house are a skylight and a corridor dec- orated with colorful glasses and mirrors. The mu- • Bazaar of Tabriz, Rasteh- (City center). is seum is interesting only for visitors with advanced one of the oldest bazaars of the Middle East and knowledge of Iran’s history and the Consitutional the largest covered bazaar in the world. It was Revolution in particular. inscribed as World Heritage Site by UNESCO in July 2010. The Bazaar is still alive and considered • , Emam Ave. (Next to Blue one of the major shopping and commerce center Mosque, very close to Saat Tower). It is a good in Tabriz. Tabriz has been a place of cultural ex- place encompassing the long Iranian history with a change since antiquity and its historic bazaar com- focus on Iranian Azerbaijan. This is the most domi- plex is one of the most important commercial cen- nant archaeological museum in North-West of Iran. ters on the Silk Road. Located in the center of the The museum includes the archaeological discover- city of Tabriz, Iran. Bazar consists of several sub- ies in Azerbaijan region. It has three galleries: Pre- units called Bazarche (sub-Bazar) each of which de- Islamic History, Islamic History, and Coins. It also voted to trade and shopping of specified goods. The has a gallery for recently built sculptures in the base- most famous Bazarches are Amir Bazaar (for gold ment and a yard for the stone sculptures. But poorly and jewelry) and Mozzafarieh (a carpet bazaar). kept: very few translations and erratic classification Although, numerous modern shops and malls have make the trip inside the numerous dynasties intricate been established nowadays, the bazaar of Tabriz has for first timers. remained economic heart of both the city and north- western of Iran. • Maghbarat-o-Shoara, Seqat-ol-eslam St.. Is a grave yard and a memorial for the poets and famous • Ark-e-Alishah (Ark Citadel), Serah Taleqani, writer who lived in the city. The most recent poet Emam Ave (City Center, close to Saat Tower.). Dur- who buried here is Azerbaijan poet Shahriyar. ing the Friday prayers there might be some restric- tions for visitors.. It is a 28 meter wall which is the remnants of Tabriz city citadel and city wall. Ark was firstly made as a very big mosque in thir- teenth century, however the devastating earthquake and other natural disasters ruined much of it except the main wall of the which is preserved till today. In later years this wall used as part of the city wall and the main part of fortress of Tabriz till end of Qdjar dynasty. During the wars of Safavid- Ottoman, and Perso-Russian wars this fortress was always one of the major Strong holds of Iranian troops. In early 20th century the constitutional rev- olutionist used the ark citadel as their military base in Tabriz. At the collapse of Autonomous Govern- ment of Azerbaijan Ark was the latest resistance of Maghbarato-Shoara (Poets’ Tomb). their troops against Iranian army. In recent years the surrounding area of Ark is used to build another big mosque for Friday prayers. • East Azerbaijan State Palace, Shohada Sq. (Close to Bazar). It is state palace and main office • Constitution house, Rasteh Koucheh (Close to of East Azerbaijan Province governorship. The cite Bazaar). It is a house retracing the story of the Ira- also include the Azerbaijan Governorship Museum. nian constitutional revolution in the early 20th cen- tury. Quite well documented and well kept, although • Fire Fighting Tower, Khaqani St. (located in the few English translations are available. The edifice is yard of fire fighting station.). is a fire fighting tower. 29.5. SEE 77

it used to be part of fire fighting services. Someone • Shahriar Literary Museum, Shahriar Alley, off was checking in the top of the tower around the city Southern Artesh Street. The house of the impor- for any sign of fire. In case they would send the fire tant poet Shahriar, who wrote in Persian and Azeri fighters toward the direction of smoke. languages, can be visited here. No explanations in English available, interesting for advanced visitors or lovers of . Free. • Jomeh Mosque, Rasteh Koucheh (Next to Bazaar). is a large, (Jāmeh) in Tabrīz city. There have been some reconstruction like mak- • Canonical palace This beautiful palace was built ing a new entrance to the mosque but the new parts approximately 60 years ago. doesn't look good. 29.5.2 Around Tabriz • , Maqsoudieh St.. The edifice was built during the later part of the Zand dynasty (1750–1794) and the early part of the Qajar dy- nasty (1781–1925), as a residential house. During the reign of Nasereddin Shah Qajar (1848–1896) this building was substantially renovated and embel- lished with ornamental paintings. The house con- sists of a main building, referred to as the Winter Building, and a smaller structure, referred to as the Summer Building. The Winter Building is a two- story symmetrical construction standing on a base- ment. Like many traditional houses in Iran, this ) and an outer ,اندرونی) house has an inner biruni) courtyard, the former being the ,بيرونی) larger of the two. In the course of a 2009 renova- tion project, some hitherto unknown miniature fres- coes were discovered in this house which were re- Kandovan Village. stored by specialists. The Behnām House is part of the School of Architecture of Tabriz Art University.

• Rob-e-Rashidi, Abbasi St. It is ruins and remnants of an educational and scientific complex was built 13th century when Tabriz was the capital of Ilkhanid dynasty. Scientists, physicians, writers, and poets from all around the Ilkhanid territories brought here to built a big dominant scientific complex. They had schools for teaching the latest scientific discoveries of the time. An encyclopedia calls Safina-yi Tabriz is also written here. The recovery of the complex and its renovation is incomplete and some other con- structions are going on the site. Babak Castle.

• Gholestan Garden, Mohagheghi St.. Is good place to relax under the shadows of trees.

• Tabriz Meuseum of Natural History, Azadi Blvd St. (A ten minutes walk from Abrassan Sq. toward Tuba Mosque). is a museum of natural history with taxidermy samples from wild life of Iran and some other countries. St. Stepanos Monastery.

• Tabriz Cartoon Museum, Mohaqeqi St.. is a mu- Around Tabriz there are many historically and scenery in- seum and gallery for caricature. There is also an teresting places to visit. The mountainous region of south annual international caricature competition held in Azerbaijan offers breathtaking views and excellent treks here. among castles, rocky paths and remote villages. 78 CHAPTER 29. TABRIZ

that one may easily get lost in the village. Steep path- ways and steps are made of rock pieces for animals as well as human beings. As the legend goes, the first people to settle here were the soldiers involved in military operations nearly 800 years ago, who found the cones by chance and used them as their tem- porary camouflage and accommodation. However, among archaeologists, it is considered to be of Pre- Islamic Period.

• ( Port about an hour north of Tabriz). A salt lake with salt beaches and improbable bathing spots (gender separate, of course). Numerous migratory birds stop there on The lake and remnants of Royal Palace in Takhte Soleyman. their long trip for some rest and food. The lake is drying because of the many dams on the feed- ing rivers, so check for the status of the lake before • Kandovan Touristy village, Osku-Kandovan Rd. heading towards the lake. (Convenient wayː Darbast taxi, which costs about 20 USD; Economical wayː Take the minibus next to • Babak Castle, Babak Castle Rd., (You , which costs about 2 USD). This vil- need to rent a taxi for a day from Tabriz or take lage is famous because of man-made cliff dwelling minibus trip.). A 9th-century castle in the peak of which is still inhabited. The troglodyte homes, ex- Jomhour in the middle of Forrest. It is cavated inside volcanic rocks in foot hills of Mount nested on a rocky peak at an altitude of 2,700 m. Sahan. It is similar to dwellings in Cappadocia, Babak was one of the Iranian heroes fighting the Turkey. a troglodytic village 2 hours away from Arabs invasion, around 9th century. The road goes Tabriz. Great for discovering both the odd beauty up to the foot hills of the Jomhour castle and from of the place and the daily life of an Iranian village, there it takes 2-hours hiking walk to get up to the among sheep, donkeys, hens and cats... Women in peak where the castle is, but definitely worth it. The printed can go outside and playing kids are castle has an interesting military design which made all around. Mullahs obviously don't bother going it impenetrable for invaders back in the days. It has there too often. Resistant walking shoes are manda- also nice view to the forests around. It is better to tory if you want to climb up the village. A living visit it in summer time to avoid the harsh winter example of human adaptation to exceptionally un- weather of the Azerbaijan region. usual natural surroundings, Kandovan village is lo- cated 50 km to the south of Tabriz, Osku, on the • Mount Sahand. A big dome topping at around northern slopes of a valley at the foothills of Mount 3,700 m. Interesting to climb in summer, or for sky- Sahand. A river originating from the Sahand peaks ing in winter (1 lift available, another in project) passes through the valley. There are a number of natural springs to the north of the river, the wa- • ter from which has traditionally been used for the Saint Stepanos Monastery, Border line, West of treatment of kidney stones, according to the locals. Jolfa. (Take a three hour ride from Tabriz to Jolfa, The physical structure of the village looks like im- then turn left at the border and drive about thirty min- ages from fairy tales. Natural cones, scattered over utes along Aras river westward.). This 9th-century a vast area, serve as human dwellings on rock for- Armenian church is north of Tabriz and south of mations which themselves seem to have been the Aras River, close to the Iran-Nakhichevan border. work certain sculptors. The road from Tabriz goes Along with two other Armenian Churches in the re- through this natural artwork. On getting nearer to gion (St Thaddeus and the Chapel of Dzordzor) it is the dwellings, the visitor finds out that large families inscribed a UNESCO site in 2008. are living inside two or three of these hollow inter- connected cones with features such as openings on • Takht-e Soleymān (5-hour ride from Tabriz to- their surface playing the role of actual windows. The wards the south, The rout passes through Bonab, lowest cones are used as stables and those on top as Shahin Dezh, and Tekab). It is remnants and ruins of the living quarters. The interiors of the dwellings, seventh century Iranian Royal Palace and Zerdostian usually divided into a living and a bed room, are Temple dated back to 224-651 AD inscribed a UN- dimly lit; however, the villagers are used to it. The ESCO site. It includes a lake in the center of palace interconnecting corridors are very narrow. From the and the ruins of the Sasanid palace around the lake. outside, the dwellings look so similar to each other There is a royal prison located several miles away 29.6. DO 79

from the palace. Takhte Soleyman is named one of the 10 best ancient ruins by The Guardian newspa- per. The name means the of Solomon, in earlier ancient period known as Shiz or Adur Gush- nasp, literally “the Fire of the Warrior Kings”.

29.6 Do

Mountain peak

• Baghlar Baghi Amusement Park (Chay-Kenar Blvd.). Is the biggest amusement park in Tabriz nor- mally operating in Late Spring, Summer, and early Automn.

• Hike in Mt Eynali and Its Artificial Forest (in the north of Tabriz). There is a paved hiking road from the foot hill of Mount Eynali to its first peak. Many residents hike through the red during week- end. There is also an Eynali cable - a El-Goli park which lifts visitors from the foot hills of Mount Ey- nali to the peak. The top station which calls The Roof of Tabriz has a view of all of the city. There • Hike in El-Goli Park (formerly known as Shah- are couple of sites in the top station including an old goli park)(Southeast of Tabriz, Shah-Gulu (Bus line: shrine (Zoroastrian Temple), a monument for the 130)). El-Gulu or as local calls Shah-Gulu is a grand unknown soldiers (war heroes), two windmills and park in south east of Tabriz. There is a big rectan- a restaurant which calls “Roof of Tabriz”. gular artificial lake in the middle of the Park with a restaurant. This place used to be a summer palace • Watch Soccer in Sahand Stadium (Sahand Sta- for the Iranian royal families during the time that dium in the south of Tabriz). Sahand soccer sta- Tabriz was the capital of the state and once it was the dium, the second largest soccer stadium in Iran, is resident for the crown prince. Nowadays the palace located in the south of Tabriz. The city also hosts in the middle renovated in the form of a restaurant two Iranian Pro-league soccer teamsː Tractor-Sazi and a small amusement park is constructed in next and Gostaresh. During Iran’s soccer season, there to the park. In summer time many residents came to are normally weekly matches at Sahand Stadium. the park and dust hike through the pedestrian path- However, note that in Iran, women are forbidden way around the lake or have their dinner in the For- from attending men’s soccer matches. rest hills next to the lake. • Watch International Cycling Tour of Azerbai- • Hot springs and Hydrotherapy Resorts in the jan (City center of Tabriz). May (check the sched- north-west of Iran. Important and rich hydrother- ule on the web site).. There is an international road apy centers such as “Sare Aine”, Boostan Abad, and biking cycling tour called Tour of Iran that is held specially the coastal strip along Urmia Lake enjoy annually in Tabriz. It starts from the city center of great popularity among all tourists. Situated 20 km Tabriz and lasts about a week. Check for this year’s off the city of Ardabile, Sare Aine Spa forms one schedule on their web site. Note that in Iran Women of the most significant health resorts in Iran. More- is not allowed to go to the stadium to watch men’s over, hot springs rich in phosphoric and other min- games. free. eral properties, located in this region, substantially contain various medicinal benefits. As a picturesque • Movies, Theater, and Music. Most of the movie natural phenomenon comprising distinctive medici- theaters are located in the city center of Tabriz close nal and healing features, Urmia Lake definitely con- to Shahnaz St. The majority of the movies are Ira- stitutes one of the main attractions around Tabriz. nian movies in Farsi with no subtitles. There are 80 CHAPTER 29. TABRIZ

some local theater and music festivals time to time 29.8.1 Souvenir which are held normally in one of the following sa- loons: Vahdat (in main campus of University of • If you want to spent lots of money, the Tabrizi car- Tabriz), Moalem in Northern Artesh St., and Petro- pets are among the finest in the world, and you will chemical Cultural Complex in Chay Kenar Blvd. find masterpieces in shops and inside the Bazaar. Tabrizi rugs are among the most decorative rugs and • Watch Muharram Ceremony, All alleys inside the frequently use colors like pink, red and cream. Rugs city. This is a ten-day religious festival for mourning here are about 50% less than what you pay in the Shia Imam Hossein, who was killed in the seventh West, but you can typically only take 2-3 rugs back century. Most of city residents wear black clothes. to your home country without paying a customs fee. In first nine days of festival people come to streets after sun set with drums and march in the streets. • Gold and Silver Jewelries are also handcrafts of At the tenth day of festival (Ashura day) the cere- Tabriz. mony starts from early morning and lasts up to sun- • set. Many people donate food, tea, and sherbet in Tabrizi nuts and Dried Fruits are quite famous the streets in tenth day. The ceremony held every in the region. There are couple of famous stores year based on Islamic Lunar Calendar from Muhar- which are known nation wide including: Tavazoe ram 1st to Muharram 10. (in Abrasan Square, Imam Ave.), and Rex (Shahnaz Sq., Imam Ave.) • Watch Nimeh Shabann. This is a religious Shia ceremony to celebrate the birthday of the Imam Mahdai. Normally there are fire works all around 29.8.2 Traditional Shopping Center the city. The ceremony is held in the city based on • the Islamic lunar calendar on the night of Shaban Tabriz Bazaar (City center). Tabrzi Bazar which is 15. the largest historic arcade in the middle east is still one of the biggest shopping centers in the city. In Tabriz Bazar to every alley is assigned for specific • Watch Akhir-Charshanbeh (Charshanbeh good example: Amir Alley for gold, Moazafarriey Souri). This is a major fireworks ceremony held on for Carpet and so on. the last Tuesday night before March 20 every year. During the day people go to the new year shopping. At the night people around the city celebrate by a 29.8.3 Modern Shopping Centers very intense fire works. They also make bonfires and young people jump through the fire. This is one The three big modern supermarket are: Refah, Sepah, of the major pre-Islamic ceremonies which have and Laleh. There are small supermarkets all around city survived till today. If you participate in the night and some other smaller arcades in the city center in Tar- ceremony, take necessary safety measures. biat St.

• Laleh Shopping Center (Next to Baghmisheh For- 29.7 Learn rest Park, Northern Baypass Expy.).

• Tabriz is the site for some of the major Iranian universi- Refah, Laleh square, Azadi Blvd.. An Iranian chain ties including , Sahand University of store. Technology, Azad University of Tabriz, and Azerbaijan • Sepah Shopping Center, Daneshsara Sq.. University. The entrance to this universities for Iranian nationals is through nation wide entrance exams. Tabriz University however offers degree programs for foreign nationals through the regular application without entrance 29.9 Eat exam. There are couple of big libraries in the city including Traditional Meals: Kabab, rice, Abgousht (Meat Tabriz National Library which are holding some of the Broth), Kufte Tabrizi (Big Meat Ball) some restaurants oldest handwritten Iranian literature as well as modern serve them all, but if you step inside a more modest Ch- texts. elowkebabi, odds are you won't have much choice apart from the traditional rice and kebab. But still you can find some restaurants which serve all, for instance there is a historical bath Nowbar Bath in city center which is ren- 29.8 Buy ovated as a traditional restaurant in recent years and it serves Abgousht, Kufteh, and other foods. 29.10. DRINK 81

• A table of some of Tabriz traditional foods (köfte, • steam cooked Rice, Bonab Kababi, and Sangak bread). •

• Kufteh Tabrizi. •

• . Cold and Frozen Deserts: In summer time Ice Cream • . and is sold in some of the fast food style restau- rants in the city center. Many of these ice-cream places • . is a family business and they have their own secret for ice cream. The recipe passes from generation to the • Qurutli Ash, a thick soup made of qurut. next generation inside the family. The most famous ones are: Shams (in Imam Ave close to saat), and Vahid (in Fast foods: There are small fast food restaurants for Ark Alley). pizza, and sandwiches all around the city. Hot Appetizers: Labou (hot boiled sweet red-beet) and Drinks: The most common drink in Tabriz (likewise Pakhla (salty boiled Fava Beans) are sold normally in win- many other middle eastern cities) is tea which is served in ter time by peddlers in street sides. tea houses along with option of qaliyan (shusha). The fa- mous traditional cold drink is (yugurt juice) which • Tabriz Modern Restaurant, Near to Shariati is served in restaurants and it is also being sold in super- Square, Emam Kh St, ☎ (0098411)5563841. markets along the cities. Officially there is no Cola, Fanta Kababs, Kufta, Dolma, , and bread are all good or other western soft drinks because of sanctions, but there are local brands like Zam Zam and Koolak which • Delestan, In front of University of Tabriz, 29 Bah- have similar tastes as the western brands. man Blvd, ☎ (̟0098411)3338507. Turkish, Inter- and dried nuts: Tabriz is famous for national, Persian, Fast Food, Pizza & Pasta, Grill, its confectioneries and dried nuts. Some of the most fa- Chicken Wings mous confectioneries are Qurabiya, Tabrizi Luvuz, Zul- • Tooska, Shah-Gulu Blvd.. Fast Food bia, , Nuga(or Nuqa), and Ris. There are no chain stores like in many big cities so you have to go • Chniese Resturant. to store. Some of the famous ones are: Karimi (in Vali Asr district), Eftekhari, and Reks (in Imam Ave close to Shahnaz St.). 29.10 Drink • Qourabieh. Nightlife may not have the same meaning in Iranian towns • Tabrizi Lovuez. as it means in western cities. Apart from private parties, there is nothing even vaguely close to a nightclub in the • Nuka. whole country. However, places for getting out at night in • Riss. Tabriz include ice-cream & juice houses, kebab restau- rants, Qalyan (hubble bubble), and tchaikhaneh. Going • Konjod Halvasi, a made of . to theaters and walking around some of the major streets (Valiasr district, Abrasan, and Shahnaz Shariati St.) is • Tabriz Baklavasi. one of the major hobbies of the youngsters in Tabriz. In summer times families go to some of the big parks to have • Dried fried salted nuts. their supper in a public area in a picnic style way.

Fruits and vegetableː fresh fruits and vegetables can be purchased from Rahli Bazar in the city center. There are also smaller shops around the city for fruits and vegeta- 29.11 Sleep bles. Sometimes vendors also sell fruits and vegetables from the back of their trucks for a cheaper price. Fruits 29.11.1 Hotels and vegetables are normally brought to Tabriz from gar- dens and farms around the city as well as gardens of other The hotels are convenient but relatively expensive. The parts of Iran. hotels in city center are recommended if you are looking to see the historic cites of Tabriz and feel the life of Tabriz • residents. While the hotels in new suburbs are far away from the city center and mostly used by business travelers. • Here is a list of major hotels in Tabrizː 82 CHAPTER 29. TABRIZ

• Qods Hotel, Mohagegi St (The opposite of previ- ous terminal (facing a large round about intersection. Gas station nearby.), ☎ (0098411)5568098. Clean and excellent staff. [June 2011] 45,000 Toman (450,000 Rial). • Hotel Darya. It include in the price Wi-Fi, Satellite Channels, Breakfast, Swimming Pool, and Sona. • Hotel Park, Between Shahnaz and Golestan Park, Emam Ave, ☎ (0098411)5551852. wi-fi, TV, mini- bar, air conditioned rooms, and some English speak- ing staff. It is located in the down town close to El Goli hotel the historic sites. four bedː160,000 toman, doubleː 100,000 toman, and single bed 60,000 toman. (up- dated Jan 2016) • Tabriz Hotel Pars (also called Hotel No 9, Shoar ,(هتل بهبود) Shah-Gulu), Next to Shahgoli Park, ☎ • Behboud Hotel +98(411)33807820-30. This hotel probably is Alley, next to Shahid Beheshti Clinic, near the most famous hotel in the city. It is often used Baghshomal Square, off Southern Artesh Street, by business travelers. Prosː It is next to Shahgoli ☎ (009841)35576647-8, fax: (009841)35576649. Park. It has swimming pool. Conː Located far away This new hotel rents out huge apartments that sleep from the city center. It is five-star but not worth the up to four people. are provided but most price. of the equipment for preparing some food yourself is not. The hotel attributes four stars to itself, which is not justified. Its quiet location a few blocks off • Shahriyar International Hotel, Shah-Gulu Blvd., the bazaar and the town hall makes it a good option, ☎ +98(411)33291420-29. Five-star but not worth though. Expect 270,000 Toman for double occupa- the price. It is far away from the city center. Often tion. Bargain (or have your Iranian partner do it for used by business travelers. you) for longer stays. (updated Jan 2016)

• Tabriz Hotel International, In Front of Blour Tower, Emam Ave., ☎ +98 411 3334 1081. 29.11.2 Guest Houses Renovated interior, very clean and quiet, semi- international standards (meaning new western bath- Guest Houses are mostly located in Ferdowsi Street and room, soap, clean towels, room service, buffet Amin Street. breakfast, TV, mini-bar, English-speaking staff ...). Worth a good European 3 star hotel. 50$ single / • Mashad Guest House (Near the tourist office ask 75$ double (breakfast included). there). Single Roomː 70,000 Rls (7,000 toman)..

• Hotel Gostaresh, Abrasan Sq., Emam Ave., ☎ +98 (411) 334 5021. 29.12 Connect

• Hotel Azarbaijan, N. Shariaty St.. Dirty and noisy, 29.12.1 Phone definitely not worth it. 375.000 Rls Double Room.. • Country Code for Iran: 0098 (+98) • Ark Hotel, In front of Baghe Golestan (Fajr) (City • Area Code for Tabriz: 0411 center). inside Ark alley. Very impolite staff. May • not relay messages left by your local contacts for you, Tabriz Cellular Phone (Code): 0914 by phone or orally. Especially if you are a female and message was left by male local or vice versa. 29.12.2 Internet

• Hotel Morvarid, In front of Baghe Golestan (Fajr) • Deniz Internet Cafe, Maghazahaye Sangi Alley (City center). Formally polite staff but will interfere (off South Shariati St). A good area to hang out. and investigate your relations with locals! May not There is coffee shop down the road that has an get your local contacts messages for you in your ab- espresso machine and the guys who work at the in- sence or let them wait for you in lobby. Will warn ternet cafe are friendly helpful, speak English and them they are not permitted to contact foreigners. are fun to hang out with. 29.14. GO NEXT 83

29.13 Stay safe

• Emergency services: 110

You might want to have plastic money to prevent having your money stolen. Bank-e Melli-ye Iran (National Bank of Iran) which is a government-owned bank in Iran, pro- vides an ATM debit card service (plastic magnetic card) for tourists who visit Iran. Tourists just need to head the nearest branch of this bank. Information on this service can be found here. Another way to prevent having your money stolen, is going to the nearest bank and getting a gift card. They are exactly like ordinary ATM debit cards, but once they get empty, they cannot be recharged. Sepah Bank or Bank -e- Sepah is a governmental bank that has a current account service for foreigners which provides both ATM debit card and cheque writing option. A list of permitted Iranian banks can be found here

29.14 Go next

• Sardroud • Ardabil

• Kandovan — small village with houses carved in the rocks like in Cappadocia, Turkey

• Maku • Maraghe

• Osku • Takab — Takht-e Soleyman, a Zoroastrian fire tem- ple and a UNESCO World Heritage site, is located nearby

• Urmia — capital of West Azerbaijan province

• Zanjan Chapter 30

Takab

.is a city in Iranian Azerbaijan ( تکاب :Takab (Persian

30.1 Get in

30.2 Get around

30.3 See

.(in Persian تخت سليمان) Takht-e Soleyman • Once a fire temple of Zoroastrians, this archaeo- logical site has been declared World Heritage site in 2003. • Karaftoo Cave

• Zendan Mountain

30.4 Do

30.5 Buy

30.6 Eat

30.7 Drink

30.8 Sleep

30.9 Connect

30.10 Go next

84 Chapter 31

Urmia

Urmia is the capital of West Azerbaijan province, in the • Natural History Museum - Displays the animals Azerbaijan region of Iran, near the Turkish and Iraqi bor- native to the vicinity of Urmia. ders. • Urmia Museum - an archaeological museum.

31.1 Get in 31.3 See

31.1.1 By plane • Lake Urmia

There are two daily flights to Tehran. • Church of Naneh Maryam (Mother Mary): The first church in the East built by the magi who made 31.1.2 By train the journey to to see Jesus Christ.

The railway is still under construction. • Three Tower:The Three Domes Tower is situated in an alley branched off the Ostad Barzegar Street in the southeastern part of Urmia 31.1.3 By car • Friday (Grand) Mosque:Urmia’s Friday Mosque By the newly built bridge over the Urmia lake you can is located in the middle of Urmia Bazaar. It has a reach Tabriz within 1.5 hours. vast courtyard and a large brick (covered area), roofed in the middle part with a high dome.

31.1.4 By bus • old Urmia Bazaar:The Urmia Bazaar is situated in the southeastern corner of Urmia. At present, the There are daily buses from Van in Turkey and Arbil in major part of the bazaar which still stands intact is Iraq and also to Tehran, Tabriz and major Western Iranian flanked by the Imam (Asgarabadi), Eghbal and Ma- cities. habad (Montazeri) streets.

31.1.5 By boat • Band Park:Band is a village alongside the route to Piranshar, which is one of the major places for going out in Urmia. Here you can drink tea, smoke water 31.2 Get around pipe, eat kebab and enjoy long and warm evenings in summer time. Urmia has many parks and touristic coastal villages on the shore of Urmia Lake. The oldest park in Urmia, • Marserkis Church:The Marserkis Church is one called Park-e Saat, was established in the first Pahlavi’s of the stone structures of the province. The roof and era. Urmia’s largest park is Ellar Bagi Park (Azerbai- all walls are skillfully and solidly built with stones of jani “Garden of the Peoples”) along the Shahar Chayi, or irregular shapes the City River. • :Built in the Qajar dynasty by • The Urmia lake, the second saltiest lake in the Abd-o-Samad Khan, father of Agha Khan and world is only a few kilometers away. You can go great grandfather of Azim-o-Saltaneh Sardar, Sar- for swimming and you will flow on the water. dar Mosque is situated some 500m away from the

85 86 CHAPTER 31. URMIA

Friday Mosque. In 1951, the latter installed a big clock on top of the entrance door, which is why it is also called the Sa’atlu (clock) Mosque.

• Nine Steps (Doquz Pelleh) Ice House:The Doquz Pelleh Ice House is situated by a little spring called “Darreh Chay” in an old district of Urmia called “Asgar Khan”. Doquz means “9” in Turkish. The ice house was regularly harvested by the people of Urmia before the city expanded to its present shape. Also, the ceremonies used to be held beside the little pool some 40 meters away from the spot where the spring water flows into the ice house.

31.4 Do

31.5 Buy

31.6 Eat

31.7 Drink

31.8 Sleep

• Reza Hotel, Besat Street, ☎ 222 6580. • Qods Hotel, Tak Setareh, ☎ 223 1861.

31.9 Connect

31.10 Stay safe

31.11 Go next Chapter 32

Zanjan

world after Santa Maria Dome and Hagia Sophia Dome and the largest brick made dome in the world

• Sangi. • Rakhtshurkhaneh. It is a traditional Qajari era laundry house and is today Zanjan’s Museum of Anthropology. Historical Edifice of Rakhtshooy Khaneh which in means Wash-house lies at the his- torical texture of the Zanjan city and it was built nearly 20th century.This place was used for washing clothes by women around the city.It was constructed by two brothers named Mashad Akbar and Mashadi Esmail.At the present this historic building is being used as Zanjan anthropological museum. The Jemeh mosque

Zanjan is the capital city of Zanjan province in Iranian 32.4 Do Azerbaijan. Zanjan have a lot of historical sites and an- also Romanized as, سلطانيه :cient.Soltaniyeh (Persian Zanjan is known for having one of the best indoor sport Solţānīyeh, Solţāneyyeh, Sultaniye, and Sultānīyeh; also climbing walls in the Middle East. It is located in Enghe- known as Sa‘īdīyeh)is a city in and capital of Soltaniyeh lab sports complex. District of Abhar County, Zanjan Province, Iran.At the 2006 census, its population was 5,684, in 1,649 fami- lies. Soltaniyeh,located some 240 kilometres (150 mi) to the north-west of Tehran, used to be the capital of Mon- 32.5 Buy gol Ilkhanid rulers of Persia in the 14th century.Its name translates as “the Imperial”. In 2005, UNESCO listed Zanjan is famous for its knives, traditional sandals, and Soltaniyeh as one of the World Heritage Sites. handicrafts. William Dalrymple notes that Öljaitü intended Soltaniyeh to be “the largest and most magnificent city in the world” but that it “died with him” and is now 32.6 Eat “a deserted, crumbling spread of ruins. 32.7 Drink 32.1 Get in 32.8 Sleep 32.2 Get around 32.9 Go next

32.3 See • The beautiful Katale (Catale) Khor cave is near here. • The landscape outside the city is very beautiful. • Soltaniye Dome. Sultaniye Dome is a UNESCO World Heritage site, the third largest Dome in the

87 Chapter 33

Khorasan

Khorasan is a region in the north-east of Iran. Previously 33.3 Other destinations a single province, it was split into three in 2004. 33.4 Understand 33.1 Provinces In middle Persian, Khorasan literally meant “where the sun rises”—a fitting name as this region at the northeast- • North Khorasan - comprising 6 :- Boj- ern tip of Iran is where the sun is seen earliest in the nourd; Esfarayen; Garmeh Jajarm; Maneh Semel- country every day. Apart from the hard-to-miss holy ghan; ; Farooj city of Mashhad, here you will find ancient buildings and artifacts from various empires that ruled the region • Razavi Khorasan (in the centre, inbetween North throughout the history intermingling with a diverse array Khorasan and South Khorasan) - comprising 19 of ethnicities (Turkmens, Afghans/Pashtuns, Baluchis, counties:- ; ; ; ; and Arabs depending on where you are). Ghouchan; ; Khaf; Kalat; ; Khalil Whether you are on an overland tour of the world west to Abad; Mashhad; Neyshabour; ; Sabzevar; east, or are following the steps of Marco Polo along the Sarakhs; Torbat-e Jam; Torbat-e heydariyeh; Tay- Silk Road, Khorasan can be a great gateway to Central bad; Mahvelat; Asia. In addition to the transportation links to West Afghanistan and Turkmenistan the region has, and the • South Khorasan - comprising 8 counties:- ; consulates of Central Asian countries conveniently based Darmian; Ferdows, ; Qayenat; ; in Mashhad, traditional yurts of nomadic Turkmens dot- ; Boshrooyeh ting the Khorasani countryside (especially on its northern reaches) will make you feel you are at the gate of some- thing different from now-familiar Persian heartland. 33.2 Cities

• Mashhad - the capital of Markazi(Central) Kho- 33.5 Talk rasan (also called Razavi Khorasan)

• Bojnourd- the Capital of North Khorasan 33.6 Get in

• Khaf 33.7 Get around • Neyshabur

• Sabzevar 33.8 See

• Torbat Heydarye • Diri-Baba and Ag Gunbaz mausoleums • Torbat Jam • The cave dwellings of Maraza • Qayen • Astrophysical Observitory • Esfarayen • Akbarieh Gardens in , • Gonabad one of nine world heritage Persian gardens.

88 33.13. GO NEXT 89

Akbarieh garden

33.9 Do

33.10 Eat

33.11 Drink

33.12 Sleep

33.13 Go next Chapter 34

Esfarayen

also as Esfarāyen; for- 34.8 Drink , اسفراین :Esfarayen (Persian merly, Meyanābād, Mīānābād, and Mīyānābād) is a city in and the capital of Esfarayen County, North Khorasan Dogh (yogurt drink) Province in Iran.

34.9 Sleep 34.1 Understand

Esfarayen is a small historical city with many beautiful 34.10 Connect sights to see including natural ones. 34.11 Go next 34.2 Get in

34.2.1 By plane

The nearest airport to Esfarayen is Bojnourd's and Sabzevar's airport which is around 60 km north and 100 km south of Esfarayen, respectively.

34.2.2 By train

34.3 Get around

34.4 See

• Belgheis City (an ancient city)

• Tomb of Babaghodrat

34.5 Do

34.6 Buy

34.7 Eat

• Kamejosh or kalejosh or mastjosh: It is one of fa- vorite food among Esfarayen and Sabzevar cities.

90 Chapter 35

Mashhad

the same for any and all cities and villages in Iran; it is national law.

35.2 Get in

35.2.1 By air

Mashhad International Airport (Shahid Hashemi Nejad Airport) (IATA: MHD) is located just a few kilometres South of the city centre. A taxi from the Holy Shrine area to the airport should not cost more than 150,000 Rials. Being Iran’s second largest city, Mashhad is connected to all Iranian cities that have an airport. On the busier routes, Almost everything about Mashhad relates to its role as there are several options per day. However, during the the holiest city in Iran, even its name (literally: burial peak season(s) of pilgrimage, tickets sell out early. place of the martyr). As the capital of Iran's Khorasan province, Mashhad’s year-round cool temperatures and Mashhad is also connected internationally, as it features fascinating insights into the Shi'ite heartland have much on the timetables of all the larger Middle Eastern air- to offer visitors. lines. There are flights to Bahrain, Damascus, Dubai, Kuwait, Bishkek, Beirut, Jeddah, Dushanbe, Kabul, Doha, Almaty, Lahore and Istanbul. 35.1 Understand 35.2.2 By train Mashhad started life out as Sanabad, a village pitstop for trade caravans headed towards Turkmenistan. But in the The railway station is located just North of the Holy ninth century, the eighth Shi'ite Imam Ali Bin Moosa Al Shrine area. There are several regular trains from Mash- Reza, the great grand son of Imam Ali who was the cousin had to Tehran, both day trains and overnight trains. They & son in law of Prophet Mohammad was poisoned by vary in speed, price and quality, the fastest do the trip in the jealous caliph of the time. Imam Reza was buried in 8 hours. There are night trains to Isfahan (one or two per Mashhad, and his shrine became one of the holiest sites to day, 18 hours) and many other destinations. the shi'ite Muslims after the Holy in Saudi Arabia and Karbala in Iraq. You get here from Turkmenistan. There are trains from Ashgabat and Merv to the Sarakhs border. And at the Over the next thousand years, the shrine complex was lev- other side of the border there is a daily train from the elled, ransacked and rebuilt a number of times depending Sarakhs border to Mashhad. on the ruling army of the day. Today the Shrine is the most important place in the city and in the whole of Iran. Dress code for women is strict, as it is in any part of Iran, 35.2.3 By bus however a self encompassing chador is not a must for any lady in public place in city. For women, a simple head- There are mostly night buses to Mashhad from other im- scarf or roo-sari, with a trenchcoat and pants are fine. portant cities. There are NO international buses from Men are also not allowed to wear shorts. These rules are Ashgabat or anywhere in Turkmenistan.

91 92 CHAPTER 35. MASHHAD

35.3 Get around Torghabeh, Torogh, Akhlamad, Zoshk, and . The Shah Public Bath, built during the Safavid era in Mashhad has a rapid transit system, which opened in 1648, is an outstanding example of the architecture of 2012. that period. It was recently restored, and is to be turned into a museum.

35.4 See • Imam Reza Shrine Complex (The shrine is vis- ible from far away and has entrances on all sides. There are separate entrance doors for brothers and sisters, bags and cameras have to be left at luggage deposit offices outside the shrine for a 10,000 Rials fee. All visitors will be frisked at the gates leading to the Shrine. Mobile phones can be brought into the shrine. Women have to wear a chador.). This complex has been developed around the tomb of the eighth Imam of Shia Islam. The burial cham- ber where the Imam rests is the holiest place for all Shia Iranians. Foreigners are allowed to visit the complex, while the central area and certain court- yards allegedly are off-limits for non-Muslims. Shi- ites come to this place as pilgrims to mourn the death of their religious leader and don't want to be dis- turbed by crowds of tourists. That said, there are no marks of any kind telling where you can go and where not. If you manage to blend into the crowd, it is possible to visit the core of the shrine. It is im- pressing from the architectural point of view with the corridors and domes completely adorned with Persian mirror . It pays off to take some time and soak in the athmosphere of praying and mourn- ing. The complex also includes a library and the Ghoharshad Mosque, which is the largest mosque in the world by area and the second largest in capac- ity. Travellers have the option to visit the Foreign Pilgrims Assistance Office where you will be shown Tomb of Nader Shah some videos about the shrine (from PRESS-TV) and handed out some booklets. There are some English- Apart from Imam Reza shrine there is a number of large speaking volunteers available to guide you around parks, the tombs of historical celebrities in nearby Tus in the complex, but they will not show you the Holy and Nishapur, the tomb of Nadir Shah and Kooh Sangi Shrine itself. Free. (updated Jan 2016) park and Mellat Park that have modern attractions for children such as the tallest Ferris wheel or fanfar in Iran • Central Museum (Located inside the Holy Shrine and Koohestan Park-e-Shadi Complex that includes a complex, it is signposted in English). Weekdays zoo, where many wild animals are kept and which attracts 08:00 am till 05:45 pm, Holidays 08:00 am till noon. many visitors to Mashhad. It is also home to the Mashhad This museum shows an arbitrary mix of items such Airbase (formerly Imam Reza airbase), jointly a military as coins, stamps, European clocks and astronomi- installation housing Mirage aircraft, and a civilian inter- cal instruments, pictures of marine animals, but also national airport. some interesting items like the old tombs of Imam Reza and pictures dating back to the beginning of Some points of interest lie outside the city: the tomb of photography in Iran. Some of the explanations are Khajeh Morad, along the road to Tehran; the tomb of in English. Avoid visiting this museum with a guide Khajeh Rabi' located 6 kilometers north of the city where from the Foreign Pilgrims Assistance Office, as they there are some inscriptions by the renowned Safavid cal- will press you to adequately appreciate each of the ligrapher Reza Abbasi; and the tomb of Khajeh Abasalt, a items, even the Euro coins. 10,000 Rials (also for distance of 20 kilometers from Mashhad along the road to foreigners). (updated Jan 2016) Neishabur. (The three were all disciples of Imam Reza). Among the other sights are the tomb of the poet Ferdowsi • Carpet Museum (Located inside the Holy Shrine in Tus, 24 kilometers distance, and the summer resorts at complex, it is signposted in English). Saturday till 35.7. LEARN 93

Wednesday 08:00 am till 12:30 pm, Thursdays 08:00 am till 11:30 am, Holidays 08:00 am till 12:00 pm. The name says it all. Great and impressive pieces on display. 10,000 Rials (also for foreigners). (updated Jan 2016)

• Nader Shah Park & Mausoleum. Monument to the founder of Afshar dynasty (1736–1747) (up- dated Oct 2015)

• Ferdowsi Park & Mausoleum. (updated Oct 2015)

• Gombade Sabz Mausoleum. (updated Oct 2015)

• Torghabeh. Sightseeing, village restaurants (up- dated Oct 2015)

• Shandiz. Village restaurants (updated Oct 2015) Saffron costs $2200 per kilogram 35.5 Money Famous for the turquoise which is mined near Mash- A few money changers line up on Imam Khomeini had. All products are aimed at the Iranian taste. Blvd., this is where rates are competitive. Hotels change at much worse rates, if at all. • Sara-ye Bazaar-e Reza Mostly a fabric and textile If Mashhad is your first station in Iran, you may consider bazaar. getting an Iranian ATM to prevent having your money • stolen. The state-owned Bank-e Melli-ye Iran provides Kuwaiti Bazaar, on the 17th Shahrivar Square. such a service for tourists who visit Iran. Tourists just • Bazaar-e bozorg-e markazy, on the corner of shi- need to head the nearest branch of this bank. Informa- razi Av. and akhond-e khorasani st.(Shohada cross- tion on this service can be found here. The drawback is road). that the card expires the date your visa expires (mind this point if you extend your visa) and that you hand your Eu- • Shargh-Zist Trade Center All things with best ros or Dollars to the bank who converts it to Rial at the prices, Tabarsi Sqr, north side of Holy Shrine. government rate. This is by far lower than what you re- ceive from money changers. So your safety comes at a • Proma Trade Center, Janbaz Sqr. price. Another way to prevent having your money stolen, is go- • Almas-e Shargh, Northern Khayyam Blvd. ing to the nearest bank and getting a gift card. They are exactly like ordinary ATM debit cards, but once they get • Zist Khavar, Shariaty Sqr. empty, they cannot be recharged. Sepah Bank or Bank -e- Sepah is a governmental bank that has a current ac- • Sajjad Blvd (500 metres northeast of Khayyam count service for foreigners which provides both ATM metro station). You can find few good quality shop- debit card and cheque writing option. A list of permitted ping centers in this Blvd (a bit expensive). Iranian banks can be found here

35.7 Learn 35.6 Buy • Ferdowsi University of Mashhad Mashhad has three large bazaars. Interesting things to buy include Khorassan crafts, fur-cloak, jewelry, per- • Medical & Health University of Mashhad fume, saffron, and religious souvenirs. • Institute of Technology “SIT” • Bazaar-e Reza (Bazaar-e Bozorg). Two stories height and one of the main shopping centres in the • ImamReza International University town. Sells souvenirs, sweets, saffron and clothes on the first floor and jewellery on the second floor. • Azad University of mashhad 94 CHAPTER 35. MASHHAD

35.8 Eat 100-120 USD per night. but the rent for Ghasr Talaee Hotel is very expensive about 400 USD per night. But Iranian cuisine is one of the best in the world. They do there are lots of rooms for rent around the shrine which not eat spicy food but even then their food is very tasty. are pretty cheap and suitable to rent, they are ranged from Chello Kebab is a very popular dish as well as Bakhtiari 30-90 USD per night depending on the distance from Kebab. There are also different kinds of available. shrine. So eating will be an assured good and affordable experi- Just) (هتل رضویه مشهد) ence in Mashhad • Razavieh Grand Hotel next to the main entrance of Reza Bazaar.), ☎ +98 You can find lots of great restaurants and all kinds of 51 3365 3611. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 13:00. fast-foods are available. The most advertised restaurant Located very close to the shrine and the Reza of Mashhad (and one of the most expensive) is 'Padide Bazaar, yet not noisy. The four stars this hotel at- Shandiz'. There are also numerous other decent restau- tributes to itself are bogus, however. The rooms rants in Shandiz. Full meals with rice cost from 5 to 20 and facilities are simple, old-fashioned and a bit dollars. run-down. Staff is not motivated. expect 160,000 Padide Shandiz address: Shandiz town. Toman for double occupancy. Bargain.. (updated You can find a kind of ice-cream named ice pack “Per- Jan 2016) -in mashhad. it’s really great to taste it. • Hotel Atlas. Located very close to the shrine. (up "آیس پک :sian There are lots of Ice Pack bars in Mashhad. The main dated Jan 2016) one is placed at “Shariati Sqr”. This kind of ice-cream can be found with all kinds of flavors like “chocolate , • Hotel Atrak. Located very close to the shrine and apple , cherry , strawberry , coffee , and all kind of the Reza Bazaar, yet not noisy. (updated Jan 2016) fruits you can imagine” This type of ice-cream invented • ,8540830-0513 ☎ ,(هتل فردوس) in Iran, is even getting popular in the United States of Hotel Ferdous America. fax: 0513-8544656. Located close to the shrine on busy Imam Reza Blvd. expect 3.86 million Rials for double occupancy. Discounts available outside the (جنت) Hezardestan Traditional , Jannat street (in a parallel street to Modarres Blvd. Jannat street peak season.. (updated Jan 2016) is a pedestrian zone. There is a huge Lonely Planet adver- tisement on the wall opposite to the restaurant so it is hard • Ghasr Talaee international Hotel, Basij square, to miss.). Very beautifully decorated subterranean restau- Imam Reza st., Mashhad, Iran, ☎ +98(51)−38038, rant. The menu comprises (only) four dishes (Chicken fax: +98(51)−38037. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: Kebab, Dizi, Ghormeh, mashed ) which are very 12:00. Five star hotel, located close to the shrine on well done and are served with lots of side dishes. Service busy Imam Reza Blvd. is lame, however, bring enough time. Base charge for tea = 150,000 Rials. Meals 250,000 to 470,000 Rials. (up- dated Jan 2016) 35.9.2 Homestays (Vali’s non smoking homestay, 38th (Farsi:۳۸ • alley (previously 6th) off Malakoshoaraye Bahar 35.9 Sleep street (previously Engelab Eslami street), house 277 -Farsi:۲۷۷) (close to Lashgar square at the intersec) Mashhad attracts huge number of visitors specially dur- tion with Imam Khomeini street), ☎ 851 6980, 0915 ing the summer months, so be sure to make travel reserva- 100 1324, e-mail: [email protected]. Vali is a tions in advance. Mashhad can also be very cold during carpet merchant and a regional guide but most of all winters, hence heavy woolens are required during win- a chatterbox! (he speaks English and basic French) ters. Even in summers nights are pretty cold and requires His wife cooks delicious meals which you can en- light woolens. joy sitting on the terrace. Two bedrooms and an ex- tremely comfortable dorm are available in the base- ment full of Persian rugs with a basic shared bath- 35.9.1 Hotels room. The setting is simple but cozy and there is a warm family atmosphere. Internet and Wi-Fi. Lots Five-star hotels in the city are: Pars Hotel, Ghasr Ta- of tourist information (Vali can help you to sort your laee international Hotel, Ghasr International Hotel visa for Turkmenistan). Hikes and excursions can and Pardisan Hotel. There are also couple of good ho- be organized for one or more days in the villages tels near the Imam Ali Bin Moosa Al Reza Shrine, namely and mountains surrounding Mashhad. (to help you Khayyam Hotel, Ghadir International to name a few. find Vali’s place copy this Farsi phrase and show it بین چهاره راه لشکر و استانداری ملکا :The Shrine is 10 min. walk from the Khayyam Hotel and around Dorm 300 .( ولی انصاری۲۷۷ شماره۳۸اشعرابهار the rent for double bedroom with attached bath is around 35.11. GO NEXT 95

000 rials, breakfast 60 000 rials, dinner 150 000 ri- • At Bajgiran, go to the border (opening time: 7.30 - als. 15.30 Iran time). Crossing the border can take up to 2 hours. Turkmen police will ask for an entry tax of $10 (per person) + $2 of bank fees (per group), 35.10 Stay safe to be paid in US dollars only. • In the Turkmenistan side, take a taxi to Ashgabat, • In crowded places and places of worship, such as the which can cost up to $15 per person. Duration: Holy Shrine, be careful about pick-pockets. Take about 1h. care of your possessions as there’s a small risk of theft by pick-pockets. 35.11.3 To Afghanistan

35.10.1 Emergency services phone num- Herat in Afghanistan is only a few hundred kilometers bers from here.

• Police: 110 35.11.4 Visas and permits • Fire department: 125 Following countries have Consulate in Mashad: • EMS: 115 • Consulate of Afghanistan, Imam Khome- • Road EMS: 115 or 112 ini Avenue, Doshahid Street, Sevom Is- fand Sq., ☎ +98-513-8544829, +98-513- 8597552, fax: +98 21 33113508, e-mail: 35.11 Go next [email protected].

35.11.1 Inside Iran • Consulate of Kazakhstan, Rahnemai Street 10, 41 h., ☎ +98-513-8417716, fax: +98-513 8401293, e- You can easily use ground transportation and visit these mail: [email protected]. ancient cities in a short period of time: • Consulate of Kyrgyzstan, No. 209, Next to • Tous, the hometown of Ferdowsi, the great Iranian Gas station, Abkooh Ave. 91839, ☎ +98- poet of the tenth century (AD) and the author of 513-2229845, fax: +98-513-2227045, e-mail: Shaahnaameh, a great Iranian epical masterpiece. [email protected]. • Nishapur, hometown and the place of tombs of • Consulate of Pakistan, P.O. Box No.91375-1733, Khayyaam and Attaar. Two peots and polymaths. Imam Khomeini St., Opposite of Melli Garden, ☎ Khayyaam was also a great mathematician and as- +98-513-6040364. tronomer. • • Torghabeh, beautiful nature and a country side. Consulate of Turkmenistan, No. 34, Konsoolgari Alley, 10th Day Sq. 91386, ☎ +98-513-8547066, • Torghabeh Shandiz, beautiful nature and a country fax: 98-513-8547073. side. • Consulate of Saudi Arabia, No. 4, Molavi St. Saj- jad Blvd, ☎ +98-513-6076276, +98-513-6076279, 35.11.2 To Turkmenistan fax: +98-513-6076273, +98-513-6076278.

Since no public transportation goes across the Turkmen border, to get to Ashgabat in Turkmenistan, the following option is the most convenient:

• Take a bus to Quchan: every 2 hours from 6:30AM. Cost: 8000 rial. Duration: 2h30.

• From Quchan, take a private taxi to Bajgiran (village at the border). Cost: 60,000 rial for 2, or less if you can. Duration: about 1h. Chapter 36

Nishapur

36.2 Get around

Tomb of Omar Khayyam. You can see a monu- ment, a bust, and a little museum. The museum, how- ever, shows a few arbitrary items not connected to Omar Khayyam, and displays some text from Wikipedia (in- cluding the “clarification needed” tag). 150,000 Rials (foreigner price). (updated Jan 2016) Imamzade Mahruq. Right next to Omar Khayyam’s tomb, this Imamzade actually contains two tombs, Mahruq’s tomb is deeper into the complex. free. (up- dated Jan 2016) Tomb of Farid ad-Din Attar. Tomb and mausoleum for the important sufi poet Farid ad-Din Attar. Also here: the tomb of the important painter Kamal al-Molk. 150,000 Rials (foreigner price). (updated Jan 2016)

• Shadiyakh excavations

• Mazare Shahmir

• Caravanserai

Khayyam thomb 36.3 Do is an (نیشابور :Nishapur (also Neyshābūr, Persian ancient city in Khorasan near Mashad. It was one of the largest cities of old Persian Empire before the Mongolian 36.4 Buy attack. Neyshabur Turquoise has been used for more than 2000 years and for this turquoise it is sometimes called “the turquoise land”. Neyshabur turquoise and jewellery made 36.1 Get in from it are sold as souvenirs in Neyshabur and Mashhad resorts. 36.1.1 By train Rhubarb (Persian rivaas or rivand), a sour vegetable, grows at the foot of the eponymous Rivand Mountains There are train routes from Tehran and Mashad. . Soft drinks made from the stems of the plant, such as “Sharbate rivaas” and “Khoshaabe rivaas” , are sold at some Nishapur resorts as souvenirs. 36.1.2 By minibuses

Several minibuses leave from Mashad to Nishapur every 36.5 Eat day.

96 36.9. GO NEXT 97

36.6 Drink

36.7 Sleep

36.8 Connect

36.9 Go next

Firoze, Hemmatabad, Some, Emam Reza Town, Ghadamgah, Darrod, Sabzevar, Eshqabad Chapter 37

Qayen

Qayen is a city in Khorasan, eastern Iran.

37.1 Understand

37.2 Get in

37.3 Get around

37.4 See

A mud wall surrounds the modern town. There are several ancient places around the town, such as the Tomb of Bozorgmehr Qaini, 5 km to the south.

37.5 Do

37.6 Buy

37.7 Eat

37.8 Drink

37.9 Sleep

• Islamic Azad University’s Hotel, Asian Highway, ☎ +985625262151.

37.10 Connect

37.11 Go next

98 Chapter 38

Sabzevar

Sabzevar is a city in Khorasan,Iran. 38.8 Drink

38.9 Sleep 38.1 Understand 38.9.1 Budget 38.2 Get in 38.9.2 Mid-range 38.2.1 By plane 38.9.3 Splurge 38.2.2 By car 38.10 Connect 38.2.3 By bus 38.11 Stay safe 38.2.4 By boat 38.12 Cope 38.3 Get around 38.13 Go next 38.4 See

Mil-e Khosrow Gerd (meaning “The brick tower of king Khosrau) is the highest brick tower in the city. Mosques include the Masjed Jameh of Friday mosque, with its two tall . They were both built during the Islamic age of Sabzevar.

38.5 Do

38.6 Buy

38.7 Eat

38.7.1 Budget

38.7.2 Mid-range

38.7.3 Splurge

99 Chapter 39

Torbat Jam

Torbat Jam is a city in Khorasan,Iran. 39.5 Do

39.6 Buy 39.1 Understand 39.7 Eat Torbat-e Jam is the birth and burial place of the renowned 11th century mystic Sheikh Ahmad Jami. The city is in 39.7.1 Budget fact named after the great mystic. 39.7.2 Mid-range

39.7.3 Splurge 39.2 Get in 39.8 Drink 39.2.1 By plane 39.9 Sleep 39.2.2 By car 39.9.1 Budget 39.2.3 By bus 39.9.2 Mid-range

39.2.4 By boat 39.9.3 Splurge

39.3 Get around 39.10 Connect

39.4 See 39.11 Stay safe

• Robat-e Sangan 39.12 Cope 39.13 Go next • Khajeh Azizollah Mosque

• Shah Qassem Anvar Mausoleum

• Noor Mosque

• Abouzar Bozjani Mausoleum

100 Chapter 40

Khuzestan

Khuzestan is one of 30 provinces in Iran and regarded • Tchogha Zanbil. Its ziggurat (Choghazanbil), is a as the birthplace of their civilisation by many Persians. UNESCO World Heritage site which is the best pre- served ziggurat temple in the world. Built about 1250 BC by the king of the Elamites to honour their 40.1 Cities god. • Susa — a settlement from the 4th millenium BC, • Ahvaz listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List

• Abadan

• Khorramshahr 40.3 Talk

• Dezful- (twin cities) 40.4 Get in •

• Mahshahr (Mahshahr, Sarbandar, Bandar Imam 40.5 Get around Khomeini}

• 40.6 See

• Masjed Solayman • Susa — Achamenian Palace, Susa museum and cas- tle, Daniel temple, Haft-Teppeh (1500 BC) • Izeh • Shustar — amazing 2000 year old water structures • Shushtar like the Sika watermills, dams, bridges and tunnels, also olden town (bazaar, houses, castle) • Shush (sometimes known as Susa) • Ayapir — discover Bakhtiari’s land on the beauti- ful slopes of the , visiting ancient 40.2 Other destinations Elamite sites of Tarisha temple and Kool Farah alog with nomads and villages in Izeh, Baghmalek and Haftguel

40.7 Do

40.8 Eat

40.9 Drink

Susa, ruins of the Darius palace 40.10 Stay safe

101 102 CHAPTER 40. KHUZESTAN

40.11 Go next

• Dezful to see the Shevi waterfall Chapter 41

Abadan

Abadan is a city in Iran. 41.7 Drink

High quality tea is available anywhere. 41.1 Get in

41.1.1 By plane 41.8 Sleep

Abadan Airport (IATA: ABD) Karvansara Hotel Abadan Iran Air - Isfahan, Tehran (Mehrabad Airport) Iran Air Tours - Isfahan, Mashad, Shiraz, Tehran 41.9 Go next (Mehrabad Airport) Iran Aseman Airlines - Dubai, Shiraz Kish Airlines - Tehran (Mehrabad Airport)

41.2 Get around

41.3 See

Traditional bazaar

41.4 Do

Play golf Visit wetland (bird watching)

41.5 Buy

Khuzestan handicraft.

41.6 Eat lots of sea foods like: 1-ghaliye mahi(a kind of food made of fresh fish) 2-medfune 3-khoroshte bamie 4-mahi sobur( a specific fish tht is barbequed) and lots of desserts made of local dates.

103 Chapter 42

Ahvaz

also provide great vacation tours to Asian countries like U.A.E., Malaysia, Indonesia, China, Japan, Vietnam and many more.

42.2.2 By train

There are daily trains to Tehran-Khorramshahr and Ban- dar Imam Khomeini. Ahvaz is the major junction for trains heading from the southern ports to Tehran, and from Tehran you can change trains and go further to Mashad or Tabriz. There are 3 daily trains to Tehran.

42.2.3 By car White Bridge also Romanized as Ahwaz) is a city 42.2.4 By bus ,اهواز :Ahvaz (Persian in Khuzestan Province in South Western Iran. There are daily busses to many destinations in Iran 1.Ahvaz-Tehran- 2.-Ahvaz-Isfahan 3.Ahvaz-Shiraz- 4.Ahvaz-Mashad- 5.Ahvaz-Khorramabad. The main bus 42.1 Understand station is located in Kampelo for busses headed north (i.e.:Tehran) Ahvaz is situated on the banks of the Karoun River, which For buses headed east(Isfahan and Shiraz-Masjed splits the city into two large districts. The western half is Suleiman) the station is at 4 Lions Square mostly housing with some government departments. The eastern half is both residential and Industrial. The main South bound buses leave from Khorramshahr Square. train station is on the western side and the airport is on the eastern side. Extremely hot in the summer. Expect 45 degrees in July and August. 42.2.5 By boat 42.3 Get around 42.2 Get in Taxis roam around the city 24 hours a day and are rela- 42.2.1 By plane tively inexpensive. Around 3000 tomans for the longest trip in the city. There are also taxi agencies everywhere, There are daily flights to Tehran, Isfahan, and Shiraz. if you can't find one on your own, all the hotels have taxi There are weekly flights to Dubai-Kuwait City-Mashad. agencies. Busses ply most innercity routes and are very Airlines serving Ahvaz airport are Iran Air-Caspian cheap. Airlines-Mahan Airlines-Eran Air--Iran Air Tours-Iran Asseman Airlines. There are many travel agencies, but the best and most 42.4 See trusted is OXIN travel agency that sits on the corner of the 7th street in Kianpars. They are a trusted company Being an oil business oriented city, there are not a lot and have flight tickets for all the destinations in Iran, they of interesting places to see in Ahvaz. Most people go

104 42.8. DRINK 105 to Kianpars street at night and stroll amongs the shops. 42.7.3 Splurge You could visit the old and hectic bazaar area(Taleqani Street). The best places in Ahvaz are situated alongside Astoria Hotel Restaurant-Expensive and below average the river. The river boulevard is a nice place to stroll and food. has many parks. One of the attractions of Ahvaz is the oil well flares situated on the border of the city, but it’s only nice at night time. 42.8 Drink

• Riverside Park, Kianpars, Ahvaz. Riverside Park You cannot legally find alcohol in Iran so your drinking the oldest park of the city. It is located in Kianpars is limited to soft drinks and fruit juice. There are many and beside the White Bridge. The view of Karoun good fruit juice shops in Ahvaz and you will find them river, white bridge, other side of the city and the is- easily. In the summer stay away from Cantaloupe juice lands are interesting. and Banana milk shakes. • White Bridge. The white bridge was the first bridge crossing Karoun river made by German engineers about 80 years ago. The bridge is now considered as 42.9 Sleep the main symbol of the city. 42.9.1 Budget

42.5 Do There are many mehmansara (Guest House) in Ahvaz. Most don't admit foreigners and the ones that do are not • Sailing on the river. You can rent a boat and go up to foreign standards. But they are inexpensive. Naderi sailing on Karoun river in many parks nearby the Hotel is a decent one. river. 42.9.2 Mid-range

42.6 Buy Oxin Hotel is near the airport and is moderately priced. It has an excellent restaurant and the rooms are clean and All the Ahvaz neighborhoods have a local market place, they have great air conditioning. They also have large the upscale shops are mostly situated alongside Chamran screen televisions in the lobby and mostly show football Blvd.(Kianpars), Zeitoon Karmandi (Cheetah Square), games. They speak very good English and can help you and the main bazaar is on Taleqani Street. arrange any kind of tour or transport. Hotel Iran is rea- sonably ok, but make sure u ask for a room on refurbished floors. BASIC English spoken. Restaurant good and rea- 42.7 Eat sonably priced at around 9000 toman for a chicken kebab. Chuchey kebab. Plenty of hot water and good AC in re- furbished rooms. 42.7.1 Budget

There are many sandwich shops and fast food shops in 42.9.3 Splurge the city. Most are average. Good ice cream store located in a cellar below a cake store. Haji Baba Coffee Shop Fajr (Former Astoria) Hotel is the best hotel in the city. can be found next to the bazar, heading towards the white It is situated by the riverside and has great views but it’s bridge.. No English spoken. expensive.

42.7.2 Mid-range 42.10 Connect Oxin Hotel Restaurant- Try the Shir Mahi(Fish) Kebabs and they also serve great Meat Kebabs. They have spe- cials that change daily, my favorite is the Shrimp. 42.11 Stay safe

Athena Pizza in Kianpars serves excellent deep dish piz- Iran is generally a safe country. It is advised however, zas. that being an obvious tourist may attract some unwanted Pizza Pizza in Zeytun is the best, make sure you visit this attention from interested Iranians, but do not be alarmed location if you visit Ahvaz, the Pizza Pizza in Kianpars is or react negatively. Standard advice to keep your bag se- not that great!!! cured and safe, and to leave personal and valuable belong- 106 CHAPTER 42. AHVAZ ings in your hotel room or hotel safe should be regarded. Iranians are generally peaceful, hospitable people, but it is advised to act with caution when walk in the streets alone late at night or when approached by strangers to the same degree that you would in your native country. You might want to have plastic money to prevent having your money stolen. Bank-e Melli-ye Iran (National Bank of Iran) which is a government-owned bank in Iran, pro- vides an ATM debit card service (plastic magnetic card) for tourists who visit Iran. Tourists just need to head the nearest branch of this bank. Information on this service can be found here. Another way to prevent having your money stolen, is going to the nearest bank and getting a gift card. They are exactly like ordinary ATM debit cards, but once they get empty, they cannot be recharged. Sepah Bank or Bank -e- Sepah is a governmental bank that has a current account service for foreigners which provides both ATM debit card and cheque writing option. A list of permitted Iranian banks can be found here

42.11.1 Emergency services phone num- bers

• Police: 110 • Fire department: 125

• EMS: 115 • Road EMS: 115 or 112

42.12 Stay healthy

Ahvaz, in Iran according to a 2011 WHO survey is found to be the worst air polluted city in the world. People with respiratory problems, for example asthma patients, should consider before visiting.

42.13 Cope

Not easy without Farsi or Arabic. The Arab visitors to Ahwaz have little trouble in communicating as the ma- jority of the city’s population are Arabs (almost 70%), so the local residents can communicate with Arab tourists and visitors or can act willingly as interpreters from Farsi to Arabic and vice versa.

42.14 Go next Chapter 43

Dezful

Dezful is a city in North of Khuzestan, Iran.

43.1 Get in

• Dezful-Andimeshk Highway

Highway Dezful-Andimeshk

• Dezful have Airport

43.1.1 By plane

Masjed-e Jomeh, Dezful 43.2 Get around 43.9 Go next 43.3 See

43.4 Do

43.5 Buy

43.6 Eat

43.7 Drink

43.8 Sleep

107 Chapter 44

Izeh

formerly known as Izaj and 44.11 Go next ,(ایذه :Izeh (Persian Malemir, is a city in the Khuzestan province in south- western Iran.

44.1 Understand

Izeh has temperate weather in spring and summer, al- though in winter it is usually the coldest city in the Khuzestan province. Izeh is populated by Bakhtiari, a tribe living in the northern part of the Khuzestan area. It is an agricultural rather than an industrial city. The fore- most product is rice (locally called Berenj) that mostly comes from Susan, Sheyvand, Meydavood and Chitanbe. Izeh also has mines of rocks and minerals. It is famous for its dam and ancient monuments that are located in Kol- farah, Eshkaft Salman, Khongazhdar and other places. It had an estimated population of 129,105 in 2005.

44.2 Get in

44.3 Get around

44.4 See

44.5 Do

44.6 Buy

44.7 Eat

44.8 Drink

44.9 Sleep

44.10 Connect

108 Chapter 45

Khorramshahr

Khorramshahr is a city in Khuzestan, Iran. 45.9 Go next

45.1 Get in

Khorramshahr University of Marine Science and Technology

45.1.1 By plane

45.2 Get around

45.3 See

45.4 Do

45.5 Buy

45.6 Eat

45.7 Drink

45.8 Sleep

109 Chapter 46

Shushtar

Shushtar is in Khuzestan province and is one of the old- 46.5 Buy est cities in Iran. It has many historical and architectural wonders. 46.6 Eat

46.1 Get in 46.7 Drink

46.2 Get around 46.8 Sleep

46.3 See 46.9 Connect

46.10 Go next

The historical hydraulic system

• The Historical Hydraulic System on the River Kârun was built as far back as the 5th century B.C. under the reign of King Darius. It comprises a UNESCO World Heritage site.

• The Band Mizan which splits the Karoun River into two channels (Gargar and Shatit).

46.4 Do swimming, boating and kayaking

110 Chapter 47

Tchogha Zanbil

47.4 Do

47.5 Buy

47.6 Eat

47.7 Drink

47.8 Sleep Choghazanbil Ziggurat

Tchogha Zanbil is an area in Khuzestan, Iran. Chogha 47.9 Go next -is an ancient Elamite com (ُچغاَزنبیل :Zanbil (Persian plex in the Khuzestan province of Iran. Tchogha Zanbil is listed in UNESCO World Heritage List.

47.1 Get in

There are plans to extend the Train line from Tehran to Ahvaz

47.2 Get around

The city stretches out a lot so you might want to use a savari to get to the Arg-é Bam.

47.3 See

• The main attraction, the ancient citadel of Arg-é Bam, suffered badly in an earthquake in December 2003. Today little is still to be seen and access is extremely restricted; there is only one main access path still open to the public and the castle on top of the hill is out of bounds.

• The ancient citadel of Tchogha Zanbil probably has a history dating back around 2500 years,

111 Chapter 48

Lorestan

Lorestan is a province of western Iran. 48.3 Other destinations

The towns of 48.1 Regions • Oshtorinan Lorestan is divided into 10 administrative counties, and home to some 1.700.000 people. Outside of the main • cities, as listed below, the province is dotted with hun- dreds of villages. • Manoolan North and East Lorestan has a very cold snowy winter with pleasant summer. Central Lorestan includes the cap- The villages of ital city of Khorram Abad with moderate weather during a year. The area is covered by Mediterranean Forests. South Lorestan has moderate winters with very hot sum- • Vennai mers. Pole Dokhtar and are notable cities. • Fial Another socio-economical division of Lorestan could be considered as following: Eastern Lorestan – mostly lo- cated on - which is more industrialized. Borujerd is the major centre. Western Lorestan, less de- 48.4 Understand veloped area but a special centre of archaeology in West- ern Iran. Khorram Abad is the center. Lorestan is mostly populated by Lor people which are a pure Iranian ethnic - similar to Kords. The majority of people do farming. 48.2 Cities

Chief towns: 48.5 Talk

• Khorram Abad - province capital The language is mostly Lori - an Iranian local language. • Borujerd - popular city Persian is used easily. English can not be used frequently with average people. • Aligoodarz • Dorood • Koohdasht 48.6 Get in • Azna 48.6.1 By plane • Delfan • Selseleh Khorram Abad Airport • Alashtar 48.6.2 By train • Nurabad • Pol-e-Dokhtar and Azna are connected to National Railway.

112 48.9. DO 113

48.6.3 By bus 48.8.1 Itineraries

Frequent bus services to all cities. Borujerd and Khor- • Stay 2 days in Borujerd and visit Jame and Soltani ram Abad have good connections to many Iranian cities Mosques. Visit the old Bazaar and go to Chogha by bus. Hill. Spend a day with friends in or Vennai and eat local kebab and yogurt drink. Preferably, stay in Zagros Hotel. 48.6.4 By car • Take a minibus to Khorram Abad (2 hrs) and spend Lorestan is located between Tehran and Khoozestan and two days there. Many historical monuments are is paved with good highways. From Tehran you can drive around the city among them Falakol Aflak Castle is 4 hrs to get to Borujerd. the most exciting.

• Join a tour – not very easy to find one – to stay 48.7 Get around overnight in Oshtorankuh and fish in Gahar Lakes.

• Visit Ghali Kuh in Aligoodarz or see Pole Dokhtar. Mini buses and vans are the most common vehicles for travelling inside the province. Shuttle Taxis known as • Visit Oshtorankooh mountain, Kamandan village, Savari are also available. Don’t trust and use personal un- Bidestane village, Emamzade qasem mosques in marked cars. Azna.

48.8 See 48.9 Do

• Falakol Aflak Castle of Korram Abad • Fishing in Gahar Lake

• Jame Mosque of Borujerd • Hiking in Chogha Hill or Kio Parkland

• Gahar Lake of Dorud • Climbing in many places – Lorestan is mostly cov- ered by elevated mountains • Soltani Mosque of Borujerd • Skiing in Borujerd in winters • Kio Lake of Korram Abad • Eating in Borujerd kebab restaurants • Bazaar of Borujerd • Gahar Lake Dorood 48.10 Eat

• Oshtorankooh Mountain Azna Borujerd has a good reputation for food. Kebab, local bread and ice cream are fantastic. Don't miss many • Bishe waterfall Dorood and local sweets in Borujerd and other cities.

• Ab sefid waterfall Aligoodarz 48.11 Drink • Chegan waterfall Aligoodarz No alcohol is served in Iran. Soft drinks and bottled wa- ter are available easily. Doogh is yogurt drink and very • Shevi waterfall Dezful popular in Lorestan.

• Nozhiyan waterfall Dorood 48.12 Stay safe • Emamzade qasem Azna • Avoid travelling alone in villages or among tribes. • Kamandan village Azna • Don't use unauthorised cars which work as taxi.

• Falakolaflak castle Khorram Abad • Call police on 110 in emergency. 114 CHAPTER 48. LORESTAN

48.13 Go next

• Easily, take a bus ticket from a terminal anytime in any city and go back to Tehran. • Take a mini bus or shared taxi to Khorram Abad and get to your flight.

• Go to Dorud and use a train to go to Tehran or Ah- waz.

• Go to Borujerd to get a bus ticket to Tehran, Isfahan, Shiraz, Ahwaz, Hamadan, Kermanshah, Sanandaj, Qom and so on.

• If you have your own car, go toward Borujerd and then Arak, Qom and Tehran. Chapter 49

Borujerd

Borujerd is an old city in Lorestan, a western province 49.3 Get around of Iran. The city has been populated since 50 A.D. Many historical sites and monuments are located in and around Use public bus system, shared taxi or telephone taxi. Hir- the city. Borujerd is a developing middle size city lo- ing a registered taxi for the whole day costs about 30 US$ cated in the fertile valley of Silakhor and surrounded by or less. For short distances a hired taxi costs 2 $ or less. elevated mountains of Zagros. The city of Borujerd in- Payments should be in Rial. habits 252,000 people (2009) and is a regional center for agriculture, business and higher education. The city of Borujerd is the official center of Shahrestan-e 49.4 See Borujerd or Borujerd county. There are many architecture and natural places worth to visit in Borujerd. This city has a good combination of both historical and natural attractions. The following at- 49.1 Talk tractions are more popular for local and foreigner tourists. Historical: The language is Borujerdi - a local accent of Persian and Lori. Persian is used easily. English can not be used • Jame Mosque (10th A.D) frequently by average people. However, the presence of many university students in the city may be a chance for • Soltani Mosque (Qajar era) finding help. • Imamzade Ja'fer (from 11th A.D. Seljuk era) • Imamzadeh Ghasem • 49.2 Get in Shahzadeh Abolhasan • Great Bazaar of Borujerd Train: Dorud is connected to National Railway. Once a • Tomb of Zavvarian (5 km north of Borujerd) part of Borujerd county, this city is located 45 km south east of Borujerd. It takes 40 min to get to Borujerd by • Sametieh tomb of Borujerdi poet Samet. minibus or less by a hired taxi. • The old houses from Qajar era (30+ houses dis- Bus: Frequent bus services run from many cities of Iran to tributed in Sufian suburb). this city. Borujerd has a good connection to many Iranian cities by bus. Tehran, Shiraz, Isfahan, Ahwaz, Khorram Parks and natural features: Abad, Hamadan and Kermanshah are main cities with frequent buses to Borujerd. • Fadak Garden Car: Lorestan is located between Tehran and Khoozestan • Chogha Hill with 360' view of the city and Zagros provinces and is paved with reliable highways. From Mountains. Tehran you can drive 4 hrs to get to Borujerd. The 396 km distance is mostly freeway and highway and Qom and • Goldasht valley 3 km west of the city Arak are main cities in between. • Park a municipal park with a statue of Air: currently there is no active airport for public in Boru- samovar. jerd. The closest airports are located in Khorram Abad and Hamadan cities. • Kuche Bagghi gardens and farmlands

115 116 CHAPTER 49. BORUJERD

• Vennai a tourist-friendly village in Garrin Moun- 49.9 Stay safe tains. Iran in general and Borujerd are generally very safe for • Gahar Lake of Dorud (60 km south of Borujerd). travelers. However, you should always avoid scams. Be advised:

49.5 Do • Avoid traveling alone in villages or among tribes.

• Visit natural scenes in day time with your friends. • Walk in the busy lanes of the bazaar to see and know the tribal . • Do not use unauthorized cars that work as taxi.

• Walk in Shohada, Takhti and Bahar streets in the • Call police on 110 in emergency. evenings with your local friends. • Spend half a day in Vennai and try local pickled cu- 49.10 Go next cumber.

• Climb professionally in Garrin or Oshtorankuh Mt. If you have your own car, go toward Arak, Qom and then Tehran. Most of the buses and minibuses leave from East • Chill out in Kuche Baghi parkland with a local Terminal (terminal-e sharq). If your next destination is friend. Hamadan, Kermanshahan or Kordestan provinces in west of Iran, use buses, shared or hired taxis in West Terminal • Hike in Chogha Hill for 20 min in the afternoon and (terminal-e qarb). see the 360' view of the city and surrounding moun- tains in day and night lights.

• Record photos or video of the local festivals in Muharram or .

49.6 Sleep

There are not many places to choose for accommodation. The four star Zagros hotel is probably the best choice if you can pay 50 US dollar or more per night. Located on top of Chogha Hill, it offers you the best view of the city or snow-covered mountains. The rooms and environment are quite pleasant. For a cheaper price, Esteghlal Hotel in Bahar Street is another choice. Few guesthouses are available in Takhti St., Shohada and Razan Square.

49.7 Eat

Borujerd has a good reputation for meal. Kebab, local bread and ice cream are must-eat foods. Don't miss local halva and sweets in Borujerd.

49.8 Drink

No alcohol is served in Iran unless your local friends offer to you. Soft drinks and botteld water are available easily. Doogh is youghurt drink and very popular in Lorestan. Borujerd also offers a good selection of Ash - different Iranian soups. Chapter 50

Khorramabad

Khorram Abad is a city in Western Iran and capital of the .

50.1 Understand

50.2 Get in

50.3 See

5 Paleolithic cave-dwelling sites In the city center, a tall citadel called Falak-ol-Aflak (The Heaven of Heavens), a relic of the Sassanid era, is now a nationally popular museum.

50.4 Do

50.5 Buy

50.6 Eat

50.7 Drink

50.8 Sleep

50.9 Connect

50.10 Go next

117 Chapter 51

Nurabad (Lorestan)

Nurabad is an Iranian city, located high in the moun- tainous area of northwest Lorestan. It is home to some 60.000 people and the capital of its district.

51.1 Understand

The common language in town is Laki, one of the main languages of western Iran. Keep into account that winters can be very cold at these heights.

51.2 Get in

51.3 Get around

The roads are reasonably good and there are bus connec- tions. Train stations in the area are in Dorud and Azna.

51.4 See

51.5 Do

51.6 Buy

51.7 Eat

51.8 Drink

51.9 Sleep

51.10 Connect

51.11 Go next

118 Chapter 52

Markazi

Markazi is a province in Iran.

52.1 Cities

• Arak

• Mahallat • Tafresh

52.2 Other destinations

52.3 Understand

52.4 Talk

52.5 Get in

52.6 Get around

52.7 See

52.7.1 Itineraries

52.8 Do

52.9 Eat

52.10 Drink

52.11 Stay safe

52.12 Go next

119 Chapter 53

Arak

53.1 Get in • Museum of Artifacts • Mojtama-e Tafrihi-i.e. Amirkabir 53.2 Get around 53.4 Do 53.3 See 53.5 Buy

Known for their hand-knotted carpets which are generally referred to as Sarouk rugs, known for their exceptional quality and ability to withstand decades of wear

53.6 Eat

53.7 Drink

53.8 Sleep Hasanpour House 53.9 Connect • Hammame Charfasl (Four-Season Bath) • Baghe Nezam Lashgar (Esmaeili) 53.10 Go next • Saraye Mehr (In the Bazaar) • Sultan Abad Museum • Koohe mostofi • Park Amirkabir • Park Jangali • 'Bagh-e-Vahsh the zoo was first opened to investi- gate the pollution from the industries mainly from the Aluminium plant on animals • 'Pol-e-doab an old mud based bridge built over sharra river • Darreh-e-Gerdou famous for its walnut trees and ranges, it is very popular place for morning exercises and weekend getaways.

120 Chapter 54

Mahallat

Mahallat (pop.50,000) is a city in , 54.9 Go next Iran. It is a place of culture and warm mineral water.In ancient times it was an important location for Zoroastri- anism.

54.1 Get in

You can take bus from Tehran or Isfahan direct to Ma- hallat. Also in the mahallat has two bus terminals

54.2 See

• Khorheh ruins There are remains of Hellenistic ar- chitecture from Alexander the Great’s time in Ma- hallat as well as fire temple ruins back from the Zoroastrianism era.

54.3 Do

Sarchesmeh atashgah flower Village

54.4 Buy

54.5 Eat

54.6 Drink

54.7 Sleep

• Hotel Agsha

54.8 Connect

121 Chapter 55

Tafresh

is a city in the Markazi 55.7 Eat ( تفرش :Tafresh (Persian Province of Iran. 55.8 Drink 55.1 Understand 55.9 Sleep Called the “City of Iran’s Fathers”, this academic city has brought forward many key figures in Iranian history, no- tably in science and politics. In the 7th century Sasanian 55.10 Connect dynasty in Persia, Tafresh was a stronghold for Zoroastri- anism, Iran’s state religion in those days. Today, it’s a rel- 55.11 Go next atively small city with some 13,000 inhabitants and num- bers are decreasing as people leave the town and move to larger cities.

55.2 Get in

Tafresh is situated about 222 kilometres (138 mi) south- west of Tehran.

55.3 Get around

55.4 See

• Tafresh Azad University lies just out of town, be- tween Tafresh city and the village of Moinabad.

• The nearby tiny village of Delaram is used as a sum- mer resort. Delaram is famous for its walnut cultiva- tion and Tafresh locals also head out there for a stroll in the lush field there, which they call “dasht”. On the way to the dasht you'll pass the buried remains of a historic mill.

55.5 Do

55.6 Buy

122 Chapter 56

Qazvin (province)

Qazvin (province) is a province in Iran. 56.2 Other destinations

56.3 Understand 56.1 Cities 56.4 Talk • Qazvin

• Takestan 56.5 Get in

• 56.6 Get around • Booin Zahra

• Eqhbalieh 56.7 See

• Mohammadieh 56.7.1 Itineraries • Alvand 56.8 Do • Isfarvadin 56.9 Eat • Mahmood Abad Nemooneh

• Khoram Dasht 56.10 Drink

• Ziä Abad 56.11 Stay safe •

• Shäl 56.12 Go next

• Danesfahan

•

• Ardägh

• Moallem Keläyeh

• Razmian

• Kouhin

• Bidestan

123 Chapter 57

Qazvin

Qazvin is the largest city and capital of the Qazvin 57.2.2 By car (province) in Iran. Qazvin is linked to Tehran and other major cities via a series of motorways, These are not usually too busy, though attempt to avoid times where workers are com- 57.1 Understand munting to and from work. Cars can be hired at Tehran International Airport. Taxi’s are usually the most easiest means of travelling to Qazvin by car. You have a choice Qazvin was an ancient capital in the Persian Empire of private taxi’s, or travelling via official taxi ranks. The and nowadays is known as calligraphy capital of Iran. main difference between the two is the state of the ac- The most famous calligrapher was Mir Emad Qazvini. tual cars, however do not be put off by the sight of an Dehkhoda who wrote the Persian dictionary (you can find elderly, slightly unconventioanl car, these are usually per- his statue in Azadi Square. The most famous poet was fectly safe to travel in. Ubayd Zakani.Qazvin can perhaps be said to be a mod- erate city, in relation to its adherence to Islamic religious and cultural values. Many people, women in particu- 57.2.3 By bus lar, dress modestly but are not limited to the a black he- jab, and many women can be seen wearing thin, brightly Buses depart very frequently from near Azadi square in coloured scarves to cover their hair. However, many Tehran. The fare is $1 for the old Mercedes buses and $2 women wear an enveloping headress, designed to com- for modern Volvo or similar buses (January 2010). pletely cover all hair. It is advised to dress respectfully in this context, by all means express yourself through a nature of hejab materials and colours, but be mindful of 57.3 Get around social and religious values at play. 57.4 See

57.2 Get in • The Qajar era Caravanserai of Sa'd al-Saltaneh.

& Qajar Hamam 57.2.1 By plane • The Grand Hotel - The first modern hotel built in The nearest international airport is the Imam Khomeini Iran International Airport (IKIA) located in southern Tehran. The Mehrabad International Airport (MIA) is servicing • The first modern School built in Iran the domestic flights. Arriving at either airports you can easily hire a taxi, get bus or train to take you to Qazvin. • The first street built in Iran (Sepah) Make sure to hire a registered taxi and agree on payment before you actually set off. Your taxi fare to Qazvin from IKIA is around $ 20-25 and from MIA is around $ 15-20. • The first Municipality built in Iran You travel all the way through an straight highway taking your time at most 2 hours and in the meantime you may Qazvin contains three buildings built by Russians in the enjoy watching beautiful sightseeings and two giant plants late 19th/early 20th century. Among these is the current of the country, Abeyek Cement and Shahid Rajaee Gass Mayor’s office (former Ballet Hall), a water reservoir, and Power plants. the Cantor church, where a Russian pilot is buried.

124 57.6. LEARN 125

• The Russian Church of Qazvin. • Afarinesh

Qazvin contains several archeological excavations dating • Varchor Waterfall in Razjerd back 9000 years. There are also 23 castles from the Is- maili Assassins nearby as well. And in the middle of the Visit Qazvin Museum city lie the ruins of Meimoon Ghal'eh, one of several Sas- sanid edifices in the area. Paragliding in blue sky flight site in Shafi Abad & Barajin Road, near to Fadak Park Qazvin contains few buildings from the Safavid era, when it was capital of Persia. Perhaps the most famous of the Watching Iranian movies in Bahman Cinema in front of surviving edifices is the Ali Qapu mansion, today a mu- Melat Park seum in central Qazvin. Swimming in There many mosques and religious schools

• The Ancient Jāmeh Mosque of Qazvīn' (-Masjid- 57.6 Learn e-Jāmeh Atīq Qazvīn) is one of the oldest mosques in Iran, and is the grand, congregational mosque Try to learn Persian, and use it while in Iran. Iranians are (Jāmeh) of Qazvīn city. The foundation of the noted for their hospitality, and would greatly appreciate a mosque is laid on a Zoroastrian fire temple. tourist’s attempts to communicate via Persian. Qazvin is an historical city, try and broaden your historical knowl- • Masjed Al-nabi (Soltani Mosque) with an area of dege by sampling the historical sites. 14000 metres, this mosque is one of the most glo- rious mosques of antiquity, built in the Safavieh’s monarchy era. • Imam Khomeini International University, .

• Sanjideh Mosque- Another mosque of Qazvin dat- • Qazvin Islamic Azad International University, . ing back to pre-Islamic Iran; a former fire temple. Its present day form is attributed to the Seljukian era. 57.7 Buy • Peighambarieh Shrine- Where four Jewish saints who foretold the coming of Christ, are buried. Take a visit to the bazaar of Qazvin. It is huge and you • Sardar School- A mosque Made by two brothers will be able to find all sorts on display. Jewellery in Iran Hossein Khan and Hassan Khan Sardar in 1815, as is of high quality, and cheap by Western standards. The a fulfillment of their promise if they came back vic- same can be said for electronical goods, which arrive in torious from a battle against the Russians. Iran via Japan, sometimes before the products can be bought in Europe and America. Other attractions near Qazvin are the tombs of two Saljuki era princes, Aboo Saeed Bijar, son of Sad, and Aboo Mansoor Iltai, son of Takin — located in two sep- 57.7.1 Qazvin Shopping Complexes arate towers known as the Kharaghan twin towers. Con- structed in 1067 CE, these were the first monuments in City Star in Khayam street to include a non-conic two-layered Ferdosi in Ferdosi street dome. Iranian in Adl street

57.5 Do 57.7.2 Qazvin hypermarket

Wander in the bazaars... Proma Hypermarket Have a break at Negarossaltaneh Café located at “Rasteh Vazeer, Sad_o_saltaneh complex” 57.8 Eat Visiting Famous Parks

Food in Iran is a delicacy, and is made up of a whole • Mashahir in Shahrdai Street range of Middle Eastern influences. Do eat chelo kebab • Barajin (Fadak) in one of the many restaurants in Qazvin. This meal is pretty much a standard dish in Iran, however Qazvin does • Melat have its own regional variations on the dish. The famous 126 CHAPTER 57. QAZVIN

Qazvinian food is called “Gheime Nesar”. Try to sam- 57.11.1 Emergency services phone num- ple as many different foods as possible while in Qazvin, bers the diversity of flavors and influences makes for delicious food. Restaurants are usually very hospitable, so asking • Police: 110 for a variation in the dish, or asking for vegetarian options • or about food allergies will not be a problem. Fire department: 125 • EMS: 115 • 57.8.1 Budget Road EMS: 115 or 112

57.9 Drink 57.12 Sleep

International health agencies advise drinking bottled wa- ter in Iran. This is cheap and therefore not a concern. Al- 57.13 Cope cohol is not tolerated (Except for NON MUSLIMS and non-Muslim religious practices). In Iran, IF any Muslim Qazvin is located in a modest and mountainous region is caught partaking in or producing alcohol it is illegal and and the weather in summer is slightly cooler than Tehran. punishments can be very severe. The temprature in summer does not go higher than 35 degrees. Hoever the best time is in the Spring and Fall, when the climate is warm and breezy. 57.10 Connect 57.14 Go next In need of help or advice, contact your national embassy, located in the capital city (Tehran) or you can find tourist From Qazvin you can do a daytrip to the mountains of Al- information centers in Qazvin, and for Police you can call borz. Most visitors go here to see the remains of Hasan 110. E-Sabah’s castle Alamut, from where he ruled the assas- iner’s order, a medieval terrorist organisation. The re- mains of the castle is currently (January 2013) being re- constructed in a way that may seem a bit dubious from an 57.11 Stay safe archeological point of view. Apart from Alamut, a day trip to Alborz has a lot of impressive landscapes to offer Iran is generally a safe country. It is advised however, along with some other castles from Hasan’s time. that being an obvious tourist may attract some unwanted attention from interested Iranians, but do not be alarmed or react negatively. Standard advice to keep your bag se- cured and safe, and to leave personal and valuable belong- ings in your hotel room or hotel safe should be regarded. Iranians are generally peaceful, hospitable people, but it is advised to act with caution when walk in the streets alone late at night or when approached by strangers to the same degree that you would in your native country. You might want to have plastic money to prevent having your money stolen. Bank-e Melli-ye Iran (National Bank of Iran) which is a government-owned bank in Iran, pro- vides an ATM debit card service (plastic magnetic card) for tourists who visit Iran. Tourists just need to head the nearest branch of this bank. Information on this service can be found here. Another way to prevent having your money stolen, is going to the nearest bank and getting a gift card. They are exactly like ordinary ATM debit cards, but once they get empty, they cannot be recharged. Sepah Bank or Bank -e- Sepah is a governmental bank that has a current account service for foreigners which provides both ATM debit card and cheque writing option. A list of permitted Iranian banks can be found here Chapter 58

Takestan

in Persian) is a rural city in the 58.5 Do تاكستان Takestan (or Iranian province Qazvin. Most of its 75,000 or so people are Tats and make their livings through agricultural activ- • Avaj Thermal Spring. People travel to this spring ities, including the production of many different grapes, for its alleged therapeutic effects. The temperature , nectarines, hay, and . During of the water is said to be higher since the 1990 earth- the reign of reform oriented Rezā Shāh Pahlavi, the city’s quake in this area. name, then Syadehen, was changed to Takestan, which means as much as “a place of vine-yards”. 58.6 Buy

58.1 Understand 58.7 Eat

58.2 Get in 58.8 Drink

The city is about 40km from Qazvin, the province cap- 58.9 Sleep ital, and the easiest way in (both with private transport and public transport) is through there. The nearest inter- national airport is the Imam Khomeini International Air- 58.10 Connect port (IKIA) of Tehran, from where you can rent a car or hire a direct private taxi. You should be able to get a taxi all the way to Takestan for under $40. If you're travelling 58.11 Go next by public transport, the train connection between Tehran and Tabriz has a stop at Takestan.

58.3 Get around

58.4 See

• Pir-i Takestan Mausoleum. An 11th century, Seljuk style mausoleum.

• Alvand Hill. Around this archeological site, marble tombstones and ceramics from the Safavid era have been discovered.

• Dokhtar (Qiz) Castle. Thought to originate in the time of Sassanide or Al Booyeh, this brick building is located in the hills near the Abakloo village, out- side of the city.

127 Chapter 59

Western Iran

Western Iran is a large section of the country, to the 59.3 Other destinations west of Iranian cities like Tehran and Qom. Most of the region is co-located with Zagros Mountains starting from Turkey and Kurdistan and ending in Persian Gulf. 59.4 Understand

Many Iranian ethnics such as Kurds, Lors and Bakhtiaris 59.1 Provinces live in Western provinces of Iran.

• Alborz 59.5 Talk • Chahar Mahaal and Bakhtiari • Hamadan The official language is Persian. Western dialects such as Kurdish, Luri and Laki are frequently used. • Ilam • Kermanshah 59.6 Get in • Khuzestan • Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad Ahvaz and Kermanshah have international airports with flights to the Persian Gulf countries and Iraq. Other • Kurdistan provincial capitals have airports with domestic flights • Lorestan mostly to Tehran and Mashhad. To go to most cities of the region, you can use buses from Tehran, Isfahan, Shi- • Markazi raz and other major Iranian cities. The national railway connects Theran to Persian Gulf and is mostly preferred • Qazvin by travellers to Khuzestan. The Persian Gulf Highway connects Markazi, Lorestan 59.2 Cities and Khuzestan provinces to Tehran. Hamedan and Ker- manshah can be accessed through this road or through Tehran - Freeway. • Ahvaz • Arak • Borujerd 59.7 Get around • Hamadan 59.8 See • Ilam • • Kermanshah Gahar Lake in Oshtorankuh Mountain in Lorestan. • Khorram Abad • Susa, one of the oldest cities of Iran in Khuzestan • Qazvin • Ali Sadr Cave in • Sanandaj 59.8.1 Itineraries • Yasouj

128 59.13. GO NEXT 129

59.9 Do

59.10 Eat

59.11 Drink

59.12 Stay safe

59.13 Go next Chapter 60

Alborz (province)

Alborz Province is in Western Iran. 60.4 Talk Ostan-e Alborz ) is one of the , استان البرز :Persian) 31 provinces of Iran, centered in Karaj. It was formed Native people of Alborz province speak Karaji language, by division of into two provinces, af- an Iranian language which is similar to other languages ter the Parliamentary approval on June 23, 2010, and in Alborz mountains. Beside that and of course Persian was introduced as 31st province of Iran. Situated north- which is spoken by everyone, since during the previous west of Tehran, the Province of Alborz has 6 counties, decades millions of people immigrated to Karaj from dif- Karaj, , Savojbolagh, , Taleghan, and ferent parts of Iran, you can find people who speak other . Karaj is the seat of the province. It is situ- languages too(eg. Kurdish, Azeri, Gilaki etc) ated 35 km west of Tehran, at the foothills of the Alborz mountains, and is Iran’s smallest province. 60.5 Get in 60.1 Cities • Metro - is connected with Karaj • Eshtehard - known for its dry climate and amazing through line 5(Dark green). Currently there are 3 natural attractions metro stations in the province: Karaj, Mohammad- shahr and . The new line which will con- • Fardis tinue to is under construction and will be operational in the early future. • Hashtgerd - the capital of Saojbolagh county • Train - All trains that connect Tehran with the west- • Karaj – the capital and biggest city ern parts of Iran as well as those that go to Turkey, pass through Karaj and most of them stop at Karaj • Nazarabad - known for the famous Uzbeki hill railway station. • Taleghan - a group of historical pleasant villages • deep in the mountains Bus - Karaj is on Free Way 2, which connects Tehran and Tabriz.

• Shared Taxi - Several shared taxi(Savari) stations 60.2 Other destinations offer possibility to come from Tehran to different parts of Alborz province. The stations are located • Jadde Chalus - A famous road that pierce through in , , Enghelab, Azadi, ... Their price Alborz mountains and lead to the coast of Caspian vary from 4 to 5000 Tomans(1-1.5 Euros) depend- sea. The road is known to be one of the most beau- ing on their routes tiful roads in Iran

• Baraghan - A historical village just north of Karaj. It has a several historical places and stunning land- 60.6 Get around scapes. The population of the village speak Karaji language. 60.7 See

60.3 Understand 60.8 Do

130 60.12. GO NEXT 131

60.8.1 Skiing and Snowboarding

Alborz province provides some of the best skiing resorts in Iran. Dizin and Khor resorts are located north to Karaj. Dizin has one of the longest routes in the mid- dle east. Its lift reaches 3600 meters, making it one of the 40 highest resorts in the world.

60.8.2 Hiking

Alborz province take its name from Alborz mountain range which is north to the city. Hiking is very popular between the people especially on Friday early mornings. Try Azimieh mountain north of Karaj. You can continue for a half day walk to visit Amirkabir lake on the other side of it.

60.9 Eat

60.10 Drink

60.11 Stay safe

60.12 Go next

• Qazvin is the next major city if you travel westwards. You can get a bus, shared taxi or other means of transportation to Qazvin if you stay beside the free- way or in Golshahr station. Chapter 61

Chahar Mahaal and Bakhtiari

Chahar Mahaal and Bakhtiar is in Western Iran.

61.1 Cities

• Shahrekord

61.2 Other destinations

61.3 Understand

61.4 Talk

61.5 Get in

61.6 Get around

61.7 See

61.8 Do

61.9 Eat

61.10 Drink

61.11 Stay safe

61.12 Go next

132 Chapter 62

Hamadan (province)

Hamadan Province is in Western Iran.

62.1 Cities

• Hamadan • Lalejin

62.2 Other destinations

62.3 Understand

62.4 Talk

62.5 Get in

62.6 Get around

62.7 See

62.8 Do

62.9 Eat

62.10 Drink

62.11 Stay safe

62.12 Go next

133 Chapter 63

Ilam (province)

Ilam Province is in Western Iran. 63.11 Stay safe

63.1 Cities 63.12 Go next

• Ilam

•

• Arkwaz

•

• Dareh Shahr

•

• Mehran

• Sarable

63.2 Other destinations

63.3 Understand

63.4 Talk

63.5 Get in

63.6 Get around

63.7 See

63.8 Do

63.9 Eat

63.10 Drink

134 Chapter 64

Kermanshah (province)

Kermanshah Province is in Western Iran. 64.12 Go next

64.1 Cities

• Kermanshah • Eslamabad-e Gharb • Harsin • Javanrood • Kangavar • Paveh • Sonqor

64.2 Other destinations

64.3 Understand

64.4 Talk

64.5 Get in

64.6 Get around

64.7 See

64.8 Do

64.9 Eat

64.10 Drink

64.11 Stay safe

135 Chapter 65

Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad

Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad Province is in Western Iran.

65.1 Cities

• Yasouj

65.2 Other destinations

65.3 Understand

65.4 Talk

65.5 Get in

65.6 Get around

65.7 See

65.8 Do

65.9 Eat

65.10 Drink

65.11 Stay safe

65.12 Go next

136 Chapter 66

Kurdistan (province)

Kurdistan Province is in Iran.

66.1 Cities

• Sanandaj

66.2 Other destinations

66.3 Understand

66.4 Talk

66.5 Get in

66.6 Get around

66.7 See

66.8 Do

66.9 Eat

66.10 Drink

66.11 Stay safe

66.12 Go next

137 Chapter 67

Central Iran

Central Iran lies at the heart of the country, home to ma- 67.7 Get around jor cities and travel destinations like Esfahan, the capital Tehran, and the holy city of Qom. 67.8 See

67.1 Regions 67.8.1 Itineraries

• Fars 67.9 Do • Isfahan (province) • Kerman (province) 67.10 Eat • Kermanshah (province) 67.11 Drink • Qom (province) • Tehran (province) 67.12 Stay safe • Yazd (province) 67.13 Go next 67.2 Cities

• Esfahan • Kashan • Kerman • Qom • Shiraz • Tehran • Yazd

67.3 Other destinations

67.4 Understand

67.5 Talk

67.6 Get in

138 Chapter 68

Qom (province)

Qom is a province in Central Iran. 68.5.3 By car

Driving from Tehran might be a reasonable option, how- ever, if you're worried about driving in Iran you can re- 68.1 Regions serve a private bus to take you to Qom. After all, it is much safer to travel by private buses. 68.2 Cities 68.6 Get around • Qom - The capital. There is a pretty impressive bus and taxi system, which • has many bus routes to Tehran and other cities. It is very cheap to travel by local buses in Qom. Private tour buses • Ghanavat are generally much more expensive.

• Jafariye 68.7 See • Kahak • Mosque. The mosque is reserved for Muslims only. 68.3 Other destinations • Mar'ashi Najafi Library. Library has over 500,000 handwritten texts 68.4 Understand • Shrine of Fatima-al-Massumeh. The Holy Shrine is the burial place of “Fatema È Massumeh”. Women must wear a chador to enter. 68.5 Get in • Howzeh lake: Rich in natural spring water which is said to purify the heart. 68.5.1 By air • Feyze seminary: The place which devout Muslims The nearest and most easily accessible international air- gather up to meet and hear speeches from the reli- port is Tehran’s Imam Khomeini International Air- gious leaders. port (IATA: IKA), which is due to replace the older Mehrabad International Airport (IATA: THR). 68.8 Do

68.5.2 By train 68.9 Buy There are train routes which take you from Tehran and other nearby cities such as Arak, Yazd and Isfahan. Qom has many carpet and sweet (candy) shops. Qom is famous for it’s “sohan,” a flat sweet biscuit made of pis- tachios and saffron. “Gaz”, a nougat candy is also avail- • Qom train station, ☎ +98/(0)251/6617141. able. Qom is also known for the unique and beautiful silk

139 140 CHAPTER 68. QOM (PROVINCE) rugs which are famous worldwide for their unique silk and patterns. Naturally, as one of Islam’s holy cities there are numerous religious shops which sell religious books, ver- sions of the Koran and cassettes.

68.10 Eat

There are lots of places to eat in Qom which range from old style Persian restaurants to international restaurants. Persian restaurants offer a more authentic cultural atmo- sphere than international restaurants.

68.11 Drink

Drinks are forbidden in Islam, thus the only types of drinks you will be experiencing there will be non- alcoholic.

68.12 Stay safe

68.13 Go next Chapter 69

Fars

is a province of Central Iran. It 69.2 Cities (فارس :Fars (Persian is in the south of the country and its center is Shiraz. It has an area of 122,400 sq. km. In 1996, this province • Shiraz had a population of 3.8 million people, out of which 42% resided in rural areas and the rest were urban settlers. • Nominally, Fars is the original homeland of the Persian • Abadeh people. The native name of the Persian language is Fārsi • or Pārsi. Persia and Persian both derive from the Hell- Eghleed enized form Πέρσις Persis of the root word Pārs. Fārs • Bovanat is the Arabicised version of Pars. The Old Persian word was Pārsā. • , Jahrum • 69.1 Regions • Sepidan • Fasa • Estahban • Firouzabad • Abadeh • Kazeroon • Eghleed • Lar • Bovanat • • Jahrom, Jahrum • Marvdasht • Darab • Mamasani • Sepidan • Khorrambid • Shiraz • Neyreez

• Fasa

• Firouzabad 69.3 Other destinations

• Kazeroon • Abshare Margoon

• Lar

• Lamerd 69.4 Understand

• Marvdasht 69.4.1 Climate • Mamasani There are three distinct climatic regions in the Fars • Konj Province. First, the mountainous area of the north and northwest has moderate cold winters and mild summers. • Neyreez Secondly, the central regions have relatively rainy mild

141 142 CHAPTER 69. FARS winters and hot dry summers. The third region located in the south and southeast and has moderate winters with very hot summers. The average temperature of Shiraz is 16.8° C, ranging between 4.7° and 29.2° C.

69.5 Talk

69.6 Get in

69.6.1 By plane

Each day many domestic and international flights arrive from various air lines in Shiraz International Airport. Many flights originate in countries such as Syria, Dubai, Abodabi, Saudi Arabia and in special cases Egypt, Rus- sia, and Turkey. Persepolis After undergoing renovation and redevelopment work in 2005 Shiraz international Airport is identified as the second most reliable and modern airport in Iran (after Imam Khomeini International Airport of Tehran). Do- mestic flights between Shiraz and other cities such as Tehran, Mashhad, Esfahan, Ahwaz, Abadan, Kerman- shah, Boshehr, Baandar Lengeh, Lar, Lamerd, Bandar abbas, Kish, Qeshm, Siry islands, Lavan, and in urgency cases to other airports in Iran. Naghshe Rostam

69.8.1 Itineraries 69.6.2 By road

Shiraz is accessible via freeways to Isfahan, Kerman, 69.9 Do Bushehr, Ahvaz and Yasouj, and accessible via road to Bandare Abbas. • Alpine skiing - Sepidan ski resort is located near the city of Sepidan, in the northwest of . It makes winter sport fans from neighbouring cities, 69.6.3 By train reagons and even countries to gather in this city over the weekends. The hills of the Zagros Mountains in Shiraz is connected by rail road to other cities such as this region have created a suitable space for different Tehran and Isfahan. games and sports on their snow-covered slopes.

• Poolad Kaf is another ski resort. The pistes are 69.7 Get around served by a telecabin and 3 drag lifts. Skis can be hired and, in the summer, mountain-bikes. A snow- mobile track runs around the perimeter. A new hotel 69.8 See complex is under construction, and should be com- pleted by 2011 or 2012. Before then, accommoda- • Persepolis ruins about 50km northeast of Shiraz. tion is available next to the snowcat hanger. Rooms are doubles, with communal showers, and are clean • Naghshe Rostam stone reliefs near Shiraz. and decently sized. Outside of the ski season, dis- counts can easily be negotiated, especially if you are • Pasargad and the tomb of Cyrus the Great. the only visitors.

• Abshare Margoon waterfall near Sepidan, 100km Alternatively, camping is an option. Those who speak north of Shiraz. some Farsi may wish to speak to the nomads, who will likely offer you tea and perhaps even a place to stay. 69.13. GO NEXT 143

69.10 Eat

• Faloodehye shirazi is a sorbet that con- tains small pieces of cooked rice . The dish is quite subtle, slightly sweet with just a hint of rose petals; the noodles add a chewiness to the sorbet but little flavor. Faloodeh is served with a wedge of lemon, which added a refreshing kick. It’s an ideal way to end a meal on a searing day. You can order Faloodehye shirazi in Icecream shops and most tea houses (chai khaneh ). Have tea or faloodeh in the tea houses of the world famous gardens of shiraz.

69.11 Drink

Tap water in Fars province is drinkable, but has a lot of chalk in it.

69.12 Stay safe

69.13 Go next Chapter 70

Abadeh

Abadeh is a city in the Fars province of Iran. 70.10 Go next

70.1 Get in

By Bus or Car as Abadeh is located on the main road of Isfahan-Shiraz.

70.2 Get around

70.3 See

Abadeh historical monuments include Emirate Kolah Farangi, Tymcheh Sarafyan and Khaje tomb, located in the Khoja mountains.

70.4 Do

70.5 Buy

Famous carved wood-work, made of the wood of pear and box trees. Sesame oil, castor oil, , and various fruits Abadeh crafts can be embroidered in cotton. The town also produces Abadeh rugs.

70.6 Eat

70.7 Drink

70.8 Sleep

70.9 Connect

144 Chapter 71

Firouzabad

is in Fars province, Iran. 71.9 Connect (اردشيرخوره) Firouzabad

71.1 Get in 71.10 Go next

71.2 Get around

71.3 See also known ,(قلعه دختر :Ghal'eh Dokhtar (Persian as The Maiden Castle, is a castle made by Ardashir I, in present day Fars, Iran, in 209 AD. It is located on a mountain slope near the Firouzabad-Shiraz road.The for- tified palace contains many of the recurring features of Sasanian palace and civic architecture: long halls, arches, domes, recessed windows, and stairways. قلعه :Castle of Ardeshir e Babakan (in Persian is ,ه also known as the Atash-kadeh ,(اردشير بابکان a castle located on the slopes of the mountain on which Ghal'eh Dokhtar is situated on. Built in AD 224 by Ar- dashir I of the Sassanian Empire, it is located two kilome- tres (1.2 miles) north of the ancient city of Gor, i.e. the old city of Firouzabad in Fars. The palace was built next to a picturesque pond that was fed by a natural spring, perhaps in connection with the Persian goddess of water and growth, Anahita. The fire temple tower among the remains of Gōr.

71.4 Do

71.5 Buy

71.6 Eat

71.7 Drink

71.8 Sleep

145 Chapter 72

Kazeroon

Kazeroon is in Fars province, Iran. 72.11 Go next

• The nearby ruins of The ancient city of , 72.1 Understand include bas-relief depictions from the Sassanid era. A statue of (AD 241–272) can be found in a large cave at the site.

72.2 Get in • The ruins of the Qal'eh-ye Gabri (Castle of the Gabrs, or Zoroastrians) are located on a mound S.E. 72.3 Get around of

72.4 See

• Shapur statue

• Parishan Lake

72.5 Do

Ashora and Tasoa carnival has been one of the most celebrated and unique carnivals in Iran. The date of this carnival is in the ninth and tenth of Moharam Month. In these two days people go out and show the killing of Hus- sein, son of Ali. The theater starts from morning til noon. Almost all people in the city walk on the street together. They morn for this historical event

72.6 Buy

72.7 Eat

72.8 Drink

72.9 Sleep

72.10 Connect

146 Chapter 73

Margoon Waterfall

73.1.1 History

73.1.2 Landscape

73.1.3 Flora and fauna

As Abshare Margoon protected area is a part of Zagros Mountain range, it has diverse flora and fauna. Oak is the main plant of the forests of the area and brown bear, Persian leopard, wolf, fox, wild boar, wild goat, Porcu- pine etc. are some of its wilderness.

73.1.4 Climate

The area has a cold weather between November and April as sometimes the parts of waterfall gets freezed. It has a mild weather in summers.

73.2 Get in

A road comes to Margoon Village-a village just near the waterfall-, to reach the road Sepidan and Yasuj are the Margoon falls start points.

Margoon Waterfall is in Sepidan of Iran. This waterfallَ is the main attractive of Abshare Margoon protected area. 73.3 Fees/Permits Margoon waterfall falls from the heart of a rocky moun- tain and has about 70 meter height and 100 meter width There is no fees for entrance, hiking etc. Damaging the and is considered as the big ones of waterfalls in Iran. flora, fauna or polluting the water is forbidden in the area.

73.1 Understand 73.4 Get around

If you are not a real professional mountain climber, per- Most of the people know Abshare margoon protected area sonal cars are the best to reach the area. just because of its famous waterfall and almost all visits of ordinary people to this area happen in hot months of the year when the temperature of this area hardly reach to 25(but temperature reach 40 degree and more in most of 73.5 See the country). But this protected area has lots of attractive s, and professional tourists can enjoy mountain climbing, In the gorge which waterfall falls, there is another stream rock climbing, camping, landscape photography etc. which people can follow it to reach to the end of the gorge

147 148 CHAPTER 73. MARGOON WATERFALL where there is a cave which the stream flows out of it. A horrible sound is heard from inside the cave which is from another waterfall at the end of the cave. visiting the waterfall at the cave is proposed to visitors who can swim.

73.6 Do

73.7 Buy

73.8 Eat

73.9 Drink

73.10 Sleep

73.10.1 Lodging

73.10.2 Camping

73.10.3 Backcountry

73.11 Stay safe

73.12 Go next Chapter 74

Pasargad

• Gateway palace, very little left of it.

• Irrigation of the royal garden, interesting to see how advanced they were then

• Throne of the Mother of Solomon, a ruin of a palace on a hill.

74.4 Do

74.5 Buy

Tomb of cyrus 74.6 Eat

Pasargad is a historical site near Shiraz, in Fars province. There are no restaurants on site. Famous for the tomb of Cyrus the Great .

74.7 Drink 74.1 Get in Buy your bottled water near the ticket office. Bus to Saadatshahr, from there savari to Pasargad.

74.8 Sleep 74.2 Get around

The sights are a few kilometers apart, so you might want 74.9 Connect transport in between. 74.10 Go next 74.3 See

• Tomb of Cyrus, is the burial place of the ancient Cyrus the Great of Persia who founded of the Per- sian Empire under the Achaemenid dynasty. How- ever it is unfortunately hidden under an ugly scaf- folding and corrugated iron roof. It’s an UNESCO World Heritage site, listed as Pasargadae.

• Persian Gardens, one of nine world heritage listed Persian gardens in Iran.

• Private palace (Palace P)

149 Chapter 75

Sepidan

Sepidan is a county in the Fars province of Iran, Ardakan mountain clubs have winter and summer climbs in their is the capital of the county. Sepidan is in a mountainous plans. Some of the walls of the mountains are also use area and has cold winters and mild summers. for technical rock climbing and training. Alpine Skiing: Sepidan has the only county in Fars provine witch have ski resorts. 75.1 Get in

Ardakan is in the middle of the road which connects 75.5 Buy Fars province to Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad province. Shiraz and Yasuj are the best places to reach Ardakan. There is no airport or railway in the county. 75.6 Eat

Sarbast is a village besides the road to Shiraz, Sarbast ice 75.2 Get around creams are famous as they are still made traditionally.

If you do not want to climb or hike the region (for profes- sionals), car is the best choice to travel inside the county. 75.7 Drink 75.8 Sleep 75.3 See There is a hotel in Pooladkaf ski Resort. Nature: Sepidan is a good place for nature lovers. Roanj and Barmefirooz are the highest peaks of the county, 3,720 and 3,706 meters above sea level. This peaks are 75.9 Connect covered with snow year round and are one of the most important sources of fresh water in Fars province. Land- scapes like Abshare Margoon(Margoon Waterfall), Be- 75.10 Go next heshte Gomshodeh(Lost Paradise) and Pooladkaf ski re- sort are at the foothills of these peaks, and Chellegah is also very beautiful. History: Though Sepidan is visited mostly for its nature and landscapes, it can be a destination for historical and archeological tourists. , which is considered as the Cradle of Achaemenid Emire is in district of this county. Golbahar Tower is another monument of the county which has been built in Safavids.

75.4 Do

Mountain Climbing: Sepidan peaks are the most tech- nical ones to climb in Fars province. All of the Shiraz

150 Chapter 76

Shiraz

Turkish Airlines is operating weekly 4 direct flights from Istanbul to Shiraz and back.

76.1.2 By train

Shiraz Train station has trains to Isfahan and Tehran. However, the bus journey is shorter (2 hours less), so that might be recommended.

76.1.3 By bus

Shiraz is well connected to most parts of the country by bus.

76.1.4 By car

Motorways connect the city to Isfahan, Kerman, Bushehr, Ahvaz and Yasouj, and Bandar-e Abbas is reachable by highway.

76.2 Get around

Hafez Tomb For non-Iranian visitors, taxis are probably the most con- venient mean of transport. However be sure to haggle for .is the capital city of the Fars province a good price prior to getting into the car (شیراز) Shiraz and a treasure trove of Persian culture. It was the capital of Iran during the Zand dynasty’s era (1747–79), and is If an unmarked car stops while you are hailing a taxi, the celebrated birthplace of the great Persian poets Hafiz don't be alarmed. Many taxis in Shiraz are unmarked and Saadi. The city has a population of about 1,300,000. and also as a means to supplement their income, is not uncommon to find private car owners touting themselves as taxis. 76.1 Get in However it is always best to find a taxi through a reputable “telephone taxi” agency. For a set fee, drivers of these agencies will take passengers to their destination, drive 76.1.1 By plane them around town and also wait for them while they shop • Shiraz International Airport (IATA: SYZ) has or run errands. All hotels and local residents will have regular flights to all major and some smaller cities a phone number of one these agencies. There are also in Iran. There are International flights to Istanbul, taxis driven by women that specifically cater to women Kuala Lumpur, Dubai, Sharjah, Bahrain, Kuwait, passengers. Doha. The city also has a reasonable bus service.

151 152 CHAPTER 76. SHIRAZ

A metro runs between Ehsan on the north side of the city • . Formerly a prison, but now and Namazi in the city centre. an architectural wonder on exhibit. The design of the citadel combines military and residential archi- tecture, for it was the home of Karim Khan and the 76.3 Talk military centre of the dynasty. works depicting legendary tales were added at the entrance gate of the citadel during the Qajar period. (updated Mar Don't hesitate to talk to people, especially youths. Almost 2015) all of them speak English well enough to talk to you, an- swer your questions and chat with you. Respect Iranian government and do not air condescending views of Iran. • Narangestan Qavam (Bagh-e-naranjestan). Both traditional and historical house, it was built in the mid-to-late 19th century by Mirza Ibrahim Khan. 76.4 See The Qavam “Naranjestan” preserves the elegance and refinement enjoyed by the upper-class families during the 19th century. The mirrored porch was a focal point of the house, overlooking onto gardens lined with date palms and flowers. The house today is a museum open to the public. (updated Mar 2015)

Saadi Thomb

• Hafez Tomb. Mausoleum of Hafez- Hafez (1324– 1391), the greatest master of Persian lyric poetry and the literary giant of the 14th century in the west and central Asia, was born in Shiraz, lived all his life here, sang its praises in unsurpassed verse and was buried in a garden known after him as the Hafezieh, in the northeast part of the city. The wide appeal of this poet among all Persian-speaking people make his tomb a cherished placed, visited by all. This mausoleum was rebuilt in the early 50’s. A flight of stone steps reaches to the tomb under a tiled cupola resembling a dervish’s hat. The tombstone is beauti- fully inscribed with two of Hafez’s poems or Ghaz- als. Visitors to the tomb can still, as they have done for centuries, take the omens, or faals, by picking a page at random from a volume of Hafez, kept for this purpose. (updated Mar 2015) Interior of Nasir al-Mulk Mosque • Saadi Tomb. Here lie the earthly remains of one of Iran’s greatest poets. Even from the very early • Nasir al-Mulk Mosque. Built during the Qājār days after the poet’s death, the mausoleum of Sa’di era, the mosque has extensively colored glass in its became a place of pilgrimage to lovers of poetry and façade, and other traditional elements such as panj literature. In 1808 AD Karim Khan Zand renovated kāseh-i (five concaves) in its design. (updated Mar the mausoleum. The tomb was rebuilt in the early 2015) 50’s. The porch with its tall columns of pinkish mar- ble is a traditional feature of . (updated Mar 2015) • Jame’e Atigh Mosque. (updated Mar 2015) 76.6. BUY 153

• . Built between 1751 and 1773, dur- ing the Zand period; however, it was restored in the 19th century during the Qajar period where its ex- uberant floral decorative tiles date from. (updated Mar 2015)

• . Seyed Amir Ahmad, known as Shah-e Cheragh, the brother of Imam Reza, came to Shiraz in the latter half of the 8th century. He passed away in the city and his tomb is now a place of pilgrimage. The structure, tile work and the dome of the mausoleum have been rebuilt several times over the centuries. The tomb, the beautiful silver doors and the exquisite mirror work are the handi- crafts of masters and contemporary artists of Shiraz. Afif Abad Gardens (updated Mar 2015) • Afif abad Garden (Bagh-e-afifabad). Garden and • Qur'an Gate (Dar vazeh ). The city’s main houses owned by the Ghavami family. It contains a entrance. The original gate was built as an orna- former royal mansion, a historical weapons museum, mental decoration by the Buwwayhids (Buwayhid and a Persian garden that is one of the oldest gardens dynasty) about 1000 years ago, but this was replaced in Shiraz, all open to the public. (updated Mar 2015) 60 years ago by new gate, which is considered one of the finest architectural designs in Iran and has won numerous awards. From the gate walk up the stone stairways to enjoy picturesque and panoramic views of Shiraz. The tomb of Khajooyeh Kermanee, a fa- mous poet, is also located here. Hidden in the al- leys on the hill-side are numerous restaurants that serve the finest chelo kabob. It is an excellent place for picnics and taking photographs. (updated Mar 2015)

• Khan-e Zinat ol-Molk (The house of Zinat ol- molk), Next to Naranjestan Qavam. Historical house and adjoining gardens that house the Fars Dignatories museum.

• Abesh Khatoon Tomb

• Seyed Taj-e-din Gharib Tomb • Sheykh Roozbahan Tomb • Eram Garden (Bagh-e-eram). Inscribed on • Khan school the UNESCO World Heritage List, this stunningly beautiful complex contains a vast network of gar- • Ghal'eye Karim Khan dens, as well as a colorful palace and a system of small artificial rivers flowing throughout the entire • Christians Church area. Tourists can admire the wonderful flora or fol- low the little canals’ intricate system. Make sure the weather is sunny before coming here! (updated Mar 76.5 Do 2015)

• Vakil Bath. An old public bath. (updated Mar 2015) 76.6 Buy

• Delgosha Garden (Bagh-e-delgosha). Enjoy a stores usually open between 9AM and 1PM, re- walk in this lovely old garden with flowers and bitter opening again from 5PM to 9PM. It is customary to orange trees. (updated Mar 2015) haggle for a discount, which is referred to as a takhfeef. 154 CHAPTER 76. SHIRAZ

76.6.1 Bazaars

• Bazaar Vakeel. Huge ancient bazaar specializing in fine carpets, textiles, antiques and handicrafts, and spices. There is also a wonderful courtyard with a pool located in the bazaar, perfect for pho- tographs. Caravansarais, bath houses, and old shops where hundreds of vendors are housed. (updated Mar 2015)

• Saray-e-Moshir. Caravansary at the south en- trance of Bazaar Vakil, which now functions as ex- hibition space for Iranian handicrafts. (updated Mar 2015)

• Mesgarha Bazaar. (updated Mar 2015)

• Moshir-e-Now Bazaar

76.6.2 Shopping malls

• Aftab Fars Shopping Centre (MaaliAbaad Blv.). (updated Mar 2015) Unmixed , forming an Iranian flag • Hafez Shopping Centre, Afifabad Blv.

• • Persian Gulf Complex (Sepidan Hwy. Near Sadra Ash-e Shirazi - This is a kind of soup made of veg- and Golestan Towns). (updated Mar 2015) etables and meat. It is served all over the city, but only early in the morning, from 5 to 7 am. • Setareh e Fars Shopping Centre, Afifabad Blv. • Masghati Halva - A great and snack. • Sina Shopping Centre, Motahhari Blv. • Nokhod () Cookie - Delicious cookie • Zaytoon Shopping Centre, Paramount Intersec- made of chickpeas, it makes for great souvenirs. tion. • Shirazi Faloodeh - Paloodeh/Faloodeh is an ice cream made of rice starch, which takes the form of 76.7 Eat noodles. It is flavored with “sharbat” (sugar water), which can be of different flavors. Shirazi paloodeh is the best of its kind, especially when mixed with 76.7.1 Local foods Bahar-e-Naranj Distill. • Kebab with rice - Like elsewhere in Iran, the mighty old kebab with rice is a common fare, though 76.7.2 Restaurants Shiraz does offer a local variation on the . Many of these places have live music playing.

• Shirazi salad - A delicious and famous salad avail- • Haft khan, buffet and classic restaurant, Iranian and able throughout Iran, made with cucumbers, toma- international cuisine toes, onions and a simple lemon juice and dressing. • Bel passi, Italian Restaurant • Kalam polo - cooked only in Shi- • raz. Some delivery food restaurants serve this food, Brentin but it can hardly be found in normal restaurants. It is made of rice, , chopped and some • Lotus Restaurant, on the 13th floor of Pars Inter- other vegetables and spices. national Hotel 76.7. EAT 155

• Lotus Restaurant, on the top floor of Setareh-e- • Hot Fars Shopping Centre • Rabo • Kaktoos Restaurant • Soofi • Shater Abbas • Shaverma • Sharzeh Restaurant, a classic old restaurant lo- • 110 Wimpy cated just outside the • Emperor • Soofi Restaurant, traditional restaurant located at Sattarkhan St. • Zaver, great Italian pizzas

• Hammam-e-Vakil (Vakil Bath), classic old style • Haft khan restaurant • lio good • West Ghodoosi ,(بابا بستنی) Parmin Restaurant • Baba Blv. Ice cream shop, more creamy than most other • Shandiz Restaurant ice cream found in Shiraz. Try the special cone ice cream. The shop is popular with the locals, so expect • Sita Traditional Restaurant, with live Iranian mu- a queue. No seats but there is a small park beside. sic (updated Apr 2015)

• Gambron SeaFood Restaurant, serving food from 76.7.4 Cafes the whole of Persian gulf You can find coffee shops of every size, at shopping cen- • Dragon, Chinese Food tres and on the main streets.

• Noor, Lebanese Restaurant, Chamran Blv • Brentin, Sattarkhan Blv

• Blensi, Building, Moali abad Blv • Zeytoon, classic restaurant, Iranian restaurant • Wafi, Dena Building, Moali abad Blv • Shater abbas, traditional Iranian restaurant, located in khak shenasi St. • Parmin, Parmin Building, Moali abad Blv

• 76.7.3 Fast Food Tulip, Khakshenasi st • You can find at least one fast food parlor in every Street Safir, Ghasr dasht st of Shiraz. • Soofi, Chencheneh Intersection • Bagro, experience the real taste of pizza and sand- wich in a lovely place 76.7.5 Food Gardens

• Givani, modern restaurant offering Burgers, FC, There are a lot of gardens out of Shiraz, and many have Pizza been remodeled as restaurants. Most have live music playing in the evenings and offer great view. • Safir SFC, another Modern themed restaurant • Nakhlestan Garden • Exis, Italian and Mexican Fast Foods • Padra Garden, relatively new

• Sand, a lovely fast food with a unique interior design • Darband Garden

• Iranwich • Silvia Garden 156 CHAPTER 76. SHIRAZ

76.8 Drink reports of private car drivers booked through this hotel overcharging, and the hotel is not responsible For more information on typical drinks in Iran, see for that. The hotel offers tours to Persepolis via Iran#Drink Fars Tourist Agency for US$20-25 (half-day) and US$30-45 (full-day). Dorm bed: US$10, Single: US$25;, Double: US$40; Triple: US$50, includes • Distills - Shiraz has many kinds of aromatic distills. breakfast. • Haiku, Gas Square, in front of Azadi Park, across street,. 9am to 1pm. Special herb teas and coffee with fresh baked cakes and desserts. (updated Aug 76.9.2 Mid-range 2015) • Apadana Hotel, Ahli St., ☎ +98 (711) 2301336 & 2359322, fax: +98 (711) 2301337. 76.9 Sleep • Aryo-Barzan Hotel, Roodaki Ave., ☎ +98 (711) 2247182-4, fax: +98 (711) 2228959. 76.9.1 Budget • Eram Hotel, Karim Khan-é Zand., ☎ +98 71 230- There are a few budget hotels located about 200m south 3884. of the roundabout at Arg-é Karim Khan. • Parseh Hotel, 22 Bahman St., ☎ +98 (711) • Darya Hotel, Piruzi Street. Clean. Single: 2226600, fax: +98 (711) 2223003. IRR180,000; Double: IRR250,000. • Parsian Hotel, Roodaki Ave., ☎ +98 (711) • Golshan Hostel, No. 15 Alley 38. Lotfali Khan- 2304965-69, fax: +98 (711) 2331000. e-Zand (Look for sign on the north side boardwalk of the street, follow the alley), ☎ +98-711-2220715, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 14:00, 76.9.3 Splurge check-out: 12:00. Awesome traditional court to hang around, drink tea and have a shisha. The • Chamran Grand Hotel, Chamran Blvd.,, ☎ +98 owner, Parviz, is an honest and good host, who (71) 36271218, 36289494, 36288484, fax: +98 speaks English fluently. He knows all transport pos- (71) 36291111, e-mail: [email protected]. sibilities and can book you a hotel he likes in an- other city at a fair price. Tours guide are good guys. • Homa Hotel, Meshkinfam St. (next to Azadi Park.), There is a five-bed dorm room. The hostel runs ☎ +98 (71) 32288000, 32288009, fax: +98 (71) tours to Persepolis-Necropolis US$30 (half-day, ad- 32288014 & 32288021. Housed in the former In- mission fee not included (150,000 IRR + 100,000 tercontinental. IRR)) and Pasargad-Necropolis-Persepolis US$45 (full-day, admission fee not included (150,000 IRR • Pars International Hotel, Zand Boulevard., ☎ + 100,000 IRR + 150,000 IRR)). Dorm bed: +98 (71) 32332255, fax: +98 (71) 32307006 & IRR300,000 IRR; Single: IRR:750,000; Double: 32336380. IRR900,000; Triple: IRR1,650,000. Breakfast in- cluded. (updated Feb 2015) • Persepolis International Hotel, Atlasi Sq., Azadi Blvd., ☎ +98 (71) 32271280, 32271294, fax: +98 • Niayesh Boutique Hotel, No. 10, Shahzadeh Ja- (71) 32280941. mali Lane, Bibi Dokhtaran Mausoleum Lane, Na- mazi junction, Lotfali Khan-e Zand St. (Difficult to find, but it’s not far from Shah-e Cheragh Shrine. From the police station 300 metres or so up the 76.10 Stay safe road it’s clearly signposted.), ☎ +98-711-2233623, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 14.00, You might want to have plastic money to prevent having check-out: 13.00. A new hotel with a nice inner your money stolen. Bank-e Melli-ye Iran (National Bank courtyard and an OK restaurant serving standard of Iran) which is a government-owned bank in Iran, pro- fare. There is a dormitory, but it only sleeps four vides an ATM debit card service (plastic magnetic card) (with two single beds and a double bed). Great value for tourists who visit Iran. Tourists just need to head the for money. Optional extras like tea and laundry are nearest branch of this bank. Information on this service quite expensive, so make sure you settle on a price can be found here. Another way to prevent having your before agreeing to use additional services. There are money stolen, is going to the nearest bank and getting a 76.11. GO NEXT 157 gift card. They are exactly like ordinary ATM debit cards, Alexander in a gesture symbolizing the destruction but once they get empty, they cannot be recharged. Sepah of Persian imperial power, its still impressive ruins Bank or Bank -e- Sepah is a governmental bank that has permit a fairly complete reconstruction of its origi- a current account service for foreigners which provides nal appearance. both ATM debit card and cheque writing option. A list of permitted Iranian banks can be found here • Palace of Apadana

• Police: 110 • Bishapur • Fire Assistance : 125 • Firouzabad • EMS: 115 • • Road EMS: 115 or 112 Ghal'eh Dokhtar

• - The Palace ruins of Sassanid 76.11 Go next king Ardashir I. As of September 2014, entrance is 150000 Rial per person for foreign tourists. To get there, there are several options. You can either hire • Pasargad was a Persian capital built by Cyrus the a taxi from anywhere in Shiraz, take a shared taxi Great in the 6th century BC. Around 500 BC, Darius from the front of the Kar Andish Bus Terminal in the I built a new capital at Persepolis 50 km away. Both east of the city or go by bus. Local minibuses leave are now listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List from the so-called Ali Ibn Hamze Terminal, which and both are near Shiraz. is a smaller terminal south of the bigger Kar Andish domestic bus terminal, right next to the river. Ask for minibuses to Mavdasht or Persepolis. One ride is 15000 or 20000 Rial per person. From Mavdasht, taxis take you to Persepolis in 10 minutes. Don't pay more than a maximum of 60000 Rials. To get back to Shiraz, take a taxi from Persepolis to Mavdasht Terminal, which is a hardly visible spot next to the street near the southern exit of Mavdasht. If you ask locals for 'bus Shiraz', they'll point you. From there, minibuses leave again when they are full for 15000 Rial per person. On the way to Persepolis, you pass the Qur'an gate(city gate). You can ask the driver to drop you off at 'Darvazeh ye Qur'an' to visit that after coming back from Persepolis.

Persepolis (Takht-e-Jamshid)

• Takht-e-Jamshid (Persepolis) - The World Her- itage Listed centre of the great Persian Empire, cer- emonial capital of the Achaemenians and the show- piece of Achaemenian art, Persepolis (Capital of Persia in Greek) is a historic site in Fars Province, 60 km to the northeast of Shiraz. Iranians call it Takht-e Jamshid (throne of Jamshid), Jamshid be- ing the first, probably mythical, ruler of Iran. This magnificent court was the summer residence of the Achaemenian emperors and their official reception quarters. It must be by some strange accident of history that Persepolis was never mentioned in for- eign records, for it was here that representatives of all the varied peoples of the empire gathered to pay homage, and bring tribute, to the King of Kings, probably each spring, at the time of the ancient Now Ruz festival. Although set on fire and destroyed by Chapter 77

Isfahan (province)

Isfahan is a province in Central Iran. 77.11 Stay safe

77.12 Go next 77.1 Cities

• Isfahan - capital city

• Aran va Bidgol

• Kashan

• Matin Abad

• Na'in

• Varzaneh

77.2 Other destinations

77.3 Understand

77.4 Talk

77.5 Get in

77.6 Get around

77.7 See

77.7.1 Itineraries

77.8 Do

77.9 Eat

77.10 Drink

158 Chapter 78

Aran va Bidgol

Aran va Bidgol is a desert town in the 78.7 Eat of Iran. Bordered by desert sands in the north and east, it’s easily reached as it is only a 12 km drive north-east from the city of Kashan. Aran va Bidgol is home to around 78.8 Drink 55,000 people and originally consisted of two adjoining but separate villages. 78.9 Sleep

78.1 Understand 78.10 Connect

78.2 Get in 78.11 Go next

The main way in is via a local road from nearby Kashan, which in turn is reachable via and Freeway 7.

78.3 Get around

78.4 See

As in most comparable towns, the vast desert landscapes are among the main attractions. The Maranjab desert to the north holds salt lakes, sand dunes and vast flatlands with desert vegetation. There’s a fairly rich desert flora and fauna, with animals including jackals, sand cats and the odd leopard spotting. The Maranjab caravansary is one of the main sights, reminding of days long past when Silk Road travellers on their way from Europe to Asia or back would find a place to rest here. It now offers accommodation to modern day travellers.

78.5 Do

Visitors may want to arrange for a desert trip by camel or horseback.

78.6 Buy

159 Chapter 79

Isfahan

also known as Esfahan) is a 79.2.2 By train ,اصفهان :Isfahan (Persian city in central Iran, south of Tehran and is the capital of Isfahan Province. The Persians call it “Nesf-e-Jahan”, There is a night-train to Tehran and a daily train to meaning “Half The World”. Due to its beautiful hand- Mashhad. There are no trains to Shiraz. painted tiling and magnificent public square, it is consid- The night train from Tehran to Isfahan costs IRR240,000 ered to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world. for sleeping in a comfortable 6-bed compartment. An ancient town and capital of Persia from 1598 to 1722, it was long noted for its fine carpets and silver filigree. The train station in Isfahan is located far from the old Today, textile and steel mills take their place. Its archi- town. Take bus #37 from the train station to Safah bus where you can change for bus ,(;ترمینال صفه)tecture, tree-lined boulevards and relaxed pace make it terminal one of the highlights of Iran. #91 to old town. The best place to get off is Chahar- baq street, where there are many hostels, hotels, cafes and things to see. 79.1 Understand 79.2.3 By car The city is 430km south of Tehran at the foothills of the Zagros mountain range. The city enjoys a temperate cli- Isfahan is well-served by highways. There are good routes mate and regular seasons. Isfahan is located on the main to the capital Tehran, Kashan, Shiraz, Yazd and Ahvaz. north-south and east-west routes crossing Iran. The city has an called Jolfa (origi- nally called ) established by Shah Abbas I in the 79.2.4 By bus 1600s after he destroyed the prosperous Armenian town of Julfa in Armenia and forced all of the Armenians to Isfahan is well connected to most parts of Iran by bus. move to Persia, mostly to Isfahan. They were allocated There are multiple bus terminals in Isfahan and you land and rebuilt a prosperous community that was a key should note which one is more suitable for you. part of an Armenian trade network extending from Sin- There are buses to/from Tehran every 15 minutes. Also gapore and India to Venice and Amsterdam. Today the there are a few luxury buses with a so-called “European quarter still has many Armenian Churches, an Armenian standard” (very comfortable seats, open mini-bar, etc.). school, shops and Armenian residents. Royal Safar Iranian is one a few luxury bus operators. Seats are extremely comfortable with lots of leg room. Water is provided and movies are shown. The ticket to 79.2 Get in Tehran costs IRR220,000.

79.2.1 By plane 79.3 Get around Isfahan International Airport or Isfahan Shahid Be- heshti (IATA: IFN) was a military air base before the 79.3.1 By bus revolution. There are daily flights to Tehran and Mashhad in Iran. There are also flights to Damascus, Dubai, It is easy to get around Isfahan by bus. A single journey Kuwait and Istanbul. From the Airport you can take cab costs IRR5000; you can pay the driver directly, or buy for c. IRR200,000 to the city centre. Since most peo- multi-journey contactless cards at certain bus stop booths. ple are going there anyway, you can always ask people to Note that there are separate men (front) and women (rear) share taxi. sections on each bus.

160 79.4. SEE 161

From Kaveh Bus Terminal, take Bus 91 which runs down Chahar Bagh-e Pa'in St towards the city center, past Takhti Junction and Imam Hossein Sq.

79.4 See

79.4.1 Squares and streets

Shah Mosque

Naqsh-e Jahan Square

• Naqsh-e Jahan Square. Also known as shah square or imam square-1602 (Meidan Emam). The , interior of the dome square contains two mosques, a palace, and the bazaar. The square is the largest historical public • square in the world after Tiananmen Square in Bei- Sheikh Lotf Allah Mosque, Naqsh-e Jahan jing and it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Square, east side. One of the architectural master- square is surrounded by buildings from the Safavid pieces of Safavid Iranian architecture, this mosque era. This a very popular place for locals to picnic on is considered to be the most beautiful in Iran. Built Friday and holiday evenings. (updated Jun 2015) in 1602 by Shah Abbas I.= and designed by his chief architect, Sheikh Bahai. The mosque was designed • Boulevard. 1596, dating from the to be a private mosque for the royal family and there- Saffavid era, the avenue is the most historically fa- fore it does not have any minarets. There is a tun- mous in all of Persia. (updated Jun 2015) nel from the mosque to the Royal Palace, across the square. (updated Jun 2015) • Meydan Kohne. (updated Jun 2015) • Masjed-e Jāmé of Isfahan, north of Naqsh-e Ja- • Shahshahan Square. (updated Jun 2015) han Square in the old quarter. Started in AD842, this is the first Islamic building to adopt the four- 79.4.2 Mosques courtyard layout of Sassanid palaces. (updated Jun 2015)

The stunning mosques of Isfahan are among the most • Hakim Mosque, Hakim (north of Naqsh-e Jahan beautiful and interesting in the world. in the old quarter). One of the oldest mosques in Isfahan. Built by Shah Abbas II between 1656 and • Imam Mosque (called before the rev- 1662. Located on the site of a 10th century mosque. olution), Naqsh-e Jahan Square, south side. Built The portal was covered in mud until it was discov- during the Safavid period, it is an excellent exam- ered in 1956. (updated Jun 2015) ple of Islamic architecture of Iran, and regarded as one of the masterpieces of Persian Architecture. It is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 79.4.3 Palaces Its splendour is mainly due to the beauty of its seven-colour mosaic tiles and calligraphic inscrip- • Ālī Qāpū (The Royal Palace). Early 17th Cen- tions. (updated Jun 2015) tury. It is forty-eight meters high and there are seven 162 CHAPTER 79. ISFAHAN

79.4.4 Schools

• Madreseye Sadr

• Madreseye Madar Shah (Imam Jafar Sadegh after revolution). The compound was built during Soltan Hossein, a Safavid king, to serve as a theological and clerical school to train those who were interested in Ali Qapu Palace such sciences.The dome and the greater part of the walls are covered in bright yellow bricks which give a feeling of lightness. The entrance gate decorated with gold façade and silver, and the tile-works inside the building are masterpieces of fine art and indus- try. The central court, with its pool and garden, are surrounded by arcades on two levels, each giving ac- cess to a student’s room.

• Madreseye Khajoo

79.4.5 Bridges

Chehel Sotoun

floors, each accessible by a difficult spiral staircase. In the sixth floor music room, deep circular niches are found in the walls, having not only aesthetic value, but also acoustic. It is rich in naturalistic wall paintings by Reza Abbassi, the court painter of Shah Abbas I, and his pupils. There are floral, animal and bird motifs. (updated Jun 2015) Si-o-se Pol, another one of the 11 bridges • (The Palace of Eight Paradises). 1669, reportedly built for residence purposes of the Walk along the River beside the ancient king’s . Set within lush gardens which are free bridges. You see many locals doing this everyday. How- to roam if you don't want to go inside the building. ever, as a result of a drought and badly planned dam, there (updated Jun 2015) is usually no water in the river.

• Chehel Sotoun (The Palace of Forty Columns). • Si-o-Seh Pol (The Bridge of 33 Arches). 1602. It is 1647: It is called Palace of forty columns, as there highly ranked as being one of the most famous ex- are many columns, and in Iranian, 40 means many. amples of Safavid bridge design. Beautiful whether Incidentally, there are twenty columns, and these there is water underneath it or not, there is also a ba- are reflected in the pool in front, which might also sic eatery at the northern end. (updated Jun 2015) account for its name. The function of this palace • Pol-e Shahrestan (). 11th Cen- was for holding religious-national ceremonies and tury. It is one of the oldest surviving bridges in Iran, royal festivals and for receiving royal ambassadors built in the 14th Century (C.E.). (updated Jun 2015) and guests. It’s Persian Gardens is one of nine in- scribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Con- • Pol-e Khaju (). 1650. It is the finest tains some spectacular battle murals. (updated Jun bridge in the province of Isfahan and built by the 2015) Persian Safavid king, Shah Abbas II around 1650 CE. This structure originally was ornamented with • Ashraf (The Palace of Ashraf). 1650 (up- artistic tile works and paintings and served as a tea- dated Jun 2015) house. (updated Jun 2015) 79.5. DO 163

• Pol-e Joui (or Choobi). It is one of Isfahan’s oldest take one of the blue buses (ask at the drivers), which bridges and was built in 1665, during the Safavid will take you there. era. (updated Jun 2015) • • Pol-e Maarnaan. (updated Jun 2015) Buqe'h-ye Ibn-Sina (Avicenna’s Dome) - 12th Century.

79.4.6 Churches and Cathedrals • The Tombs of Nizam al-Mulk & Malek Shah - 12th & 18th Century.

• Jolfa - The Armenian Quarter, it includes one of the most beautiful churches in Iran.

• Sheikh Bahai Bathhouse - falling apart due to ne- glect.

• Pigeon Towers - Built in the 17th century to attract pigeons, whose feces were then used as fertilizer.

• Hamam-e (Bathhouse) Ali Gholi Agha

Vank Cathedral 79.5 Do

• Vank Armenian Cathedral (Holy Savior Cathe- • Take a taxi to the south of the city to Soffeh Moun- dral - Սուրբ Ամենափրկիչ Վանք) (One block east tain and catch a telecabin up for IRR60,000 or go of Nezami Str. and Khaghani Str. intersection). bowling underneath the telecabin station. 17th-century Armenian cathedral. The interior is covered with fine paintings and gilded carvings and includes a wainscot of rich tile work. The delicately blue and gold painted central dome depicts the Bib- 79.6 Learn lical story of creation of the world and man’s expul- sion from Eden. 150,000 rial. • Shahid Ashrafi Esfahani University - Foreign stu- dents can learn Persian here as part of tailor-made • Bedkhem Armenian Church (Bethlehem Arme- courses to suit their needs. Contact: Foreign Stu- nian Church)(One building west from intersection dent Coordinator Ghaem Blv., Sepahan Shahr,Tel: of Nazar Str. and Tohid Str.). Another interesting 98-311-6502820-28 combination of Persian and Armenian religious ar- chitecture, this large church completed in 1627 is full of stunning paintings and frescoes. Behind Jolfa • University of Esfahan Square, less than 5 minute walk from Vank Cathe- dral. 50,000 rial. • Esfahan University of Medical Sciences

79.4.7 Gardens • Esfahan University of Technology

• Flowers Garden • Malek Ashtar University

• Birds Garden • Sheikh Baha'i University (SHBU)

79.4.8 Others • Mohajer Technical College

• Atashgah - a Zoroastrian fire temple. This temple • Khorasgaan(Esfahan) Azad University is dramatically set atop a rock on the outskirts of Isfahan and provides a commanding view of the city (although much of it is covered in smog). You can • Art University Of Esfahan 164 CHAPTER 79. ISFAHAN

79.7 Work 79.9 Eat

There is a technology university known as IUT and there In some parks, you can simply obtain a carpet and tea are a lot of technology towns such as Sheikh bahaee, Jay, from the park warden, and have a picnic on the grass! Amir Kabir, Oshtorjaan and many others which all are You will find families gather in these parks, and bring bar- active in industry. Qualified people would like work in becues and cook freshly made kebabs, which smell (and these towns or Foolad or Melt Iron compa- taste) delicious. nies, both active in the steel industry. 79.9.1 Local foods

• Chelo kebab (kebab with rice) is a must; there are 79.8 Buy regional variations in Isfahan. • Beryani is a popular lunch dish in Isfahan. It has made with sheep meat and lung. Although Iranians love this meal, it is very fatty. Therefore some west- erners may dislike Beryani. • Fereni (a concoction of rice flour, water and milk) at Fereni Hafez, which is along Hafez Street near Imam Square. It costs IRR3000 for a small bowl or IRR5000 for a bigger one.

79.10 Drink

Visit one of the tea-houses in the bazaar or under one of the bridges.

Isfahan bazaar 79.10.1 Coffee

Note that shops in the main square must pay an additional There are lots of coffee shops in Isfahan. 8% tax on sales, which is passed on to the customer. Un- less the item that you are purchasing is unique or inexpen- Feel Cafe in “Mir Fendereski” St. is one of the most pop- sive, you may be better off shopping outside of the main ular Cafes in Isfahan. square. 79.11 Sleep • For a real treasure trove, visit the famous bazaar. 79.11.1 Budget • Isfahan carpets are world-famous, being the very • Nik hostel, ☎ +98 913 305 5008, e-mail: finest of the Persian carpets. They are also often ex- [email protected]. Check-in: 13, check-out: tremely expensive. Carpets from the nearby town 12. It is a guest house in the downtown. It is an old of Na'in are similar in style, also well-known, and house but it is clean. The owner can speak English are expensive too. For those who are interested, it and a little bit Dutch. Send him an email before ar- is possible to buy the highly decorative and brightly riving in Isfahan. Bed in dorm (+ breakfast) is 10€, coloured traditional dress of Isfahan, but such cloth- private room with 2 beds (+ breakfast) is 20€. (up- ing can be expensive, so it’s better to haggle for a dated Sep 2015) reasonable price. • Amir Kabir Hostel, st (There is a bus stop right outside the entrance.), ☎ +98 • Miniatures These exquisite miniature paintings are 311 2227273, fax: +98 311 2210255, e-mail: painted on camel bone. Most of them are sold [email protected]. Popular among backpack- framed, and prices start from about IRR15,000. It ers due to the cheap prices, but the rooms are can be more costly if the artwork is done by a minia- dirty. Sleep on the floor: IRR200,000; Dorm bed: ture master. Shop and look at various shops before IRR250,000; Single: IRR400,000 Double: USD20; making your decision. Triple: IRR900,000. 79.12. CONNECT 165

79.11.2 Mid-Range 79.12 Connect

• Dibai House, 1 Masjed Ali Alley, Harunie, ☎ There are various Internet cafés in Isfahan. The best place +98 311 2209787, fax: +98 311 2209786, e- which has the fastest connection and also cheapest in the mail: [email protected]. Dibai House com- city is the Central Library of Esfahan. It is accessible prises a fully and scrupulously restored 17th-century from Naghshe-Jahan Square by five minutes walk. Safavid historic mansion that with modern facili- ties. No smoking indoors. Price includes break- fast, and owner Sufi is extremely helpful with travel 79.13 Cope information. €40/60/80 per room/night for sin- gle/double/triple rooms. 10% discount for stays longer than a week and for groups of 5 or more. 79.13.1 Visas & Permits There is an old consulate of Russia behind the bazzar. • Hasht Behesht Apartment Hotel, Ostan- dari st, ☎ +98 311 221 486869, e-mail: [email protected]. Clean, modern 79.14 Money safety and central. You might want to have plastic money to prevent having • Bekhradi Historial Residence, No. 56 Son- your money stolen. Bank-e Melli-ye Iran (National Bank bolestan Alley, Ebn-e-Sina, Shohada Sq., ☎ +98 of Iran) which is a government-owned bank in Iran, pro- 311 4482072-3, fax: +98 311 4882073, e-mail: vides an ATM debit card service (plastic magnetic card) [email protected]. Quiet, traditional khan-e- for tourists who visit Iran. Tourists just need to head the sonnati (Iranian traditional house). Five beautifully nearest branch of this bank. Information on this service resorted Safavid-style rooms, some with bathrooms can be found here. Another way to prevent having your set around two garden courtyards. There is also a money stolen, is going to the nearest bank and getting a restaurant and free internet in this quiet area north gift card. They are exactly like ordinary ATM debit cards, of Imam Square. Rooms between US$60-US$90 but once they get empty, they cannot be recharged. Sepah per person, per night (+16% tax/service). Bank or Bank -e- Sepah is a governmental bank that has a current account service for foreigners which provides both ATM debit card and cheque writing option. A list • Safir Hotel, Amadegah Street (Across the street of permitted Iranian banks can be found here from the Abassi Hotel), ☎ +98 31 32222640, e-mail: info@safirhotel.ir. Glass elevator. Some rooms don't have windows. Includes a pool with massage 79.15 Go next services at USD50/hour. • Na’in is the first Desert city toward east. it’s a small and quiet town at the edge of desert. A perfect pat- 79.11.3 Splurge tern of a desert town. Everything you like to see in a desert town you can find there. to get there, buses • Abbasi Hotel. Built during the reign of King Sul- depart Jay terminal USD2 every half an hour from tan Hossein of Safavids about 300 years ago. King 06:00 to 20:00. private taxi is also available. 140km Soltan Hossein attributed this magnificent com- 1/5 hrs. plex of building to his mother. That is why it is called “the school and caravansaray of Madar-shah” • Toudeshk-Cho is 100km from Isfahan, on the way (which means king’s mother). The hotel also has a to Yazd. It is a very, quaint traditional desert village nice restaurant and tea house in the courtyard. and it is easy to get to from the Jey Minibus ter- minal. It is well known among backpackers as the location of the Tak-Taku Homestay (details on the • Kowsar International Hotel. Overlooks Zayan- Toudeshk-Cho page or call Mohammed on +98 913 deh Rood River. 365 4420).

• • Ali-Qapu Hotel, Chahar Bagh Ave, ☎ +98 311 Qom is a holy city a few hundred kilometres away. 2227922, fax: +98 311 2216049. 97 rooms and 4 • suites. Shiraz is south of Isfahan. • Kashan is famous for its beautiful mansions from the • Aseman Hotel. Overlooks the river. 1800s and its gardens. 166 CHAPTER 79. ISFAHAN

• Dasht-e-Kavir (central desert of Iran) is easily reached by a 6 hours bus journey from Isfahan. You'll find oases, salt lakes, etc. Chapter 80

Kashan

80.2 Get around

Most historical houses and the can easily be reached on foot. A taxi to the should not cost more than 80,000 Rials (Jan. 2016). For sights further outside the city, consider hiring a taxi. (see be- low).

Tabatabaei House, early 1800s, Kashan. A fine example of tra- 80.3 See ditional Persian architecture.

Kashan is a city in the Isfahan province of Iran. Kashan is the first of the large oases along the Qom-Kerman road which runs along the edge of the central deserts of Iran. Its charm is thus mainly due to the contrast between the parched immensities of the deserts and the greenery of the well-tended oasis. Archeological discoveries in the Sialk Hillocks which lie 2.5 miles (4 km) west of Kashan reveal that this region was one of the primary centers of civilization in pre-historic ages. Hence Kashan dates back to the Elamite period of Iran. The Sialk ziggurat still stands today in the suburbs of Kashan after 7000 years. After world known Iranian historical cities such as Isfahan and Shiraz, Kashan is a common destination for foreign tourists due to numerous historical places.

80.1 Get in

Kashan is situated around 250 km south of Tehran. A bus ride from Tehran’s South Terminal (Terminal-e-jonub) takes at least three hours. From Isfahan, the distance is 220 km, there are frequent buses from the Kaveh termi- nal. Buses tend to drop passengers at Valiasr Square or Montazeri Square, in particular if your buses just Fin garden passes Kashan on his way to another destination. Expect enough taxis hanging around. For leaving Kashan, head to the bus terminal. • Agha Bozorg Mosque. This historical mosque was Kashan is also connected to Tehran, Isfahan and numer- built in the late 18th century by master-mimar Ustad ous other cities by train. The train station is located at Haj Sa'ban-ali. The mosque is not in use any more, the Eastern fringe of the town. the theological school in its basement is, however, The closest airports are located in Tehran and Isfahan. active. It was here where Ustad Ali Maryam as a

167 168 CHAPTER 80. KASHAN

pupil started his career as a brilliant architect. free. It consists of delightful wall paintings with elegant (updated Jan 2016) stained glass windows and includes other classic sig- natures of Traditional Persian residential architec- • Fin Garden. One of the most beautiful historical ture such as biruni and andaruni. 150,000 Rials (for- gardens of the middle-east and the world. It con- eigner price). (updated Jan 2016) tains Kashan’s Fin Bath, where Amir-Kabir a fa- mous vizier of Qajarid was murdered by the King • Sultan Amir Shrine (Imamzadeh-ye Sultan Mir Nasereddin Shah. The garden covers 2.3 hectares Ahmad). free. Women must be covered with a with a main yard surrounded by ramparts with four chador. (updated Jan 2016) circular towers. In keeping with many of the Persian -Tra .(خانه عامری) gardens of this era, the Fin Garden employs a great • Ameri-Ha (Amerian) House many water features. It’s one of nine world heritage ditional house built in the mid 19th century during Persian Gardens. 200,000 Rials (foreigner price). the Qajar era, the house is one of several large spec- (updated Jan 2016) tacular old houses in the central district. Like the other houses around it, it was re-built after Kashan • Kashan Bazaar. With its fantastic mudbrick ar- was ravaged by a series of massive earthquakes in chitecture, it is one of the jewels of the city. Pay a the 18th century. The house is now a boutique ho- small amount to one of the touts hanging around the tel. (updated Jan 2016) bazaar and you will be led to the roof of the bazaar, where you can get an idea of the technical marvel of • Sialk Ziggurat. Claimed to be the world’s oldest building such large structures from mudbricks and ziggurat, dating to the 3rd millennium BC. (updated have a wonderful view over the old city. (updated Jan 2016) Jan 2016) -is a large tra (خانه عباسیان) Abbasian House • • Timcheh Amin-o-dowleh. Actually forming a part ditional historical house built during the late 18th of the bazaar, this large structure was formerly a car- century, the house is a beautiful example of Kashani avanserai and has been renovated recently. Have a residential architecture. It is said to have been the tea from the stand, take a break and look at the Ira- property of a famous cleric. It has six courtyards that nian way of doing business here (updated Jan 2016) would fit the needs of different families. One of the chambers has a ceiling designed with mirror pieces • Historical bathhouse (Hammam-e-Khan). Old so as to give the impression of a starry sky under the hammam beautifully transformed into a tradional nocturnal glitter of candlelight. The house is now a coffee shop where you can take a rest, drink tea or public museum. smoke a shisha. no entrance fee, 100,000 Rials for a serving of tea with cookies.. (updated Jan 2016) • Sharifian House • Sultan Amir Bath. Beautifully restored bath- house, with lighting installed to make the impression • Al-e-Yaseen House even more memorable. Don't forget to ask for the stairs to the roof. 150,000 Rials (foreigner price). (updated Jan 2016) • 40 Dokhtaran Fortress • Boroujerdi ha Residence. The house of Borou- jerdi, belonging to a trading family who migrated • Abu-Lu'lu'ah Shrine (the assassin of Islam’s sec- to Kashan, was built over a hundred years ago. The ond Caliph) constructed in an eleventh century construction date can still be seen on the covered distinctive Persian-Khwarezmian dynastic architec- inscription of the building, completion of which tural style, consisted of a courtyard, porch and con- took 18 years of work by tens of laborers, archi- ical dome decorated with turquoise coloured tiles, tects and master painters. Since exceptional atten- and painted ceilings. tion has been paid to all minute architectural details demanded by the geographical and climatic condi- • Puppet and toy museum, No 43 Allameh Al- tions of the area, the house has attracted consid- ley (It is signposted from Tabatabaei residence.), erable attention of architects and recognition from ☎ +98(31)−5522-5134. If you are tired of his- Iranian and foreign scientific and technical teams. torical houses, consider this cute museum showing 200,000 Rials (foreigner price). (updated Jan 2016) some Iranian puppets and toys. Workshop included. 50,000 Rials (foreigner price). (updated Jan 2016) • Tabatabaie Residence. A large house with several courtyards, which once belonged to a wealthy mer- chant. Experience how well the wind towers work. • Ghal'eh jalali 80.7. SLEEP 169

80.4 Do of the Abbasi traditional house), ☎ +98(31)−5524- 5764. Traditional restaurant serving Kebabs and There are a few must-dos in Kashan: Make sure to visit other Iranian dishes. Nicely decorated with carpets the traditional bazaar and walk around a bit in the neigh- and a pond. Don't forget to admire the intricate bouring streets to catch the feeling of an Iranian town on woodwork of the ceiling. Some of the items on the the fringe of the desert. Make sure to visit Fin garden menu don't carry prices, inquire or risk to be grossly and, if you happen to visit Kashan in the right season, the overcharged. Expect to pay 500,000 Rials per per- rose gardens in the suburb. And, of course, visit one or son. (updated Jan 2016) two of the historical houses. For many travellers, Kashan is the first stop after busy and noisy Tehran. It is well worth to plan an extra day 80.7 Sleep in Kashan, as its traditional hotels, the tea houses, and its gardens will inspire you to linger around, take a rest and Kashan is a small town where the tourism infrastructure recharge your batteries. For this purpose, the attractions is not yet fully developed. Accommodation should be re- are best visited without a guide. served well in advance if you travel in the tourism season. In the high season, locals offer private rooms.

80.5 Buy • Manouchehri House, No 49, 7th Emarat Al- ley, Sabet Alley, Mohtasham Street, Kashan (There Carpet and rose water are the two world known products are foolproof signs from Mohtasham street.), ☎ − − of the city. You will see numerous shops trying to sell +98(31) 5521-2617, fax: +98(31) 5524-5531, e- rose water and other aromatic liquids to tourists. mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Traditional (or boutique) Traditional cookies. hotel with very nice and atmospheric interior located very close to the Bazaar. The inner courtyard with a water basin invites for relaxation in the afternoon. 80.6 Eat This house was renovated in a long process, pictures from the works are on display in the corridor. It The traditional hotels of Kashan all have decent restau- is owned by an Iranian-Swiss lady who supposedly rants where lunch and dinner are available. Apart from invested two million US-Dollars into the hotel, and this, there are traditional restaurants near the sights, and who ensures a European level of quality. It is pop- several garden restaurants line on the road next to Fin ular and often booked out, reserve ahead. Double Garden. All of them serve Persian food only. Fast food rooms start at 2.3 Million Rial. Inquire. (updated shops can be found in all busier streets. Jan 2016)

,off • Noghli House, No 20, -e-Khaan Passage ,(سفره خانه مظفری) Mozaffari Restaurant • Alavi Street (opposite of Tabatabaei residence.), ☎ Paamenar Alley, Molla Habibollah-e-Sharif St., +98-31-55235300. Traditional restaurant serving Kashan (Walk around the Agha Bozorg Mosque.), Kebabs and other Iranian dishes. Nicely decorated ☎ +98(31)−5523-3324, fax: +98(31)−5523-9346, with carpets and a pond under a very high ceiling. e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 14:00, Expect to pay 400,000 Rials per person. (updated check-out: 12:00. Traditional house around a court- Jan 2016) yard. Rooms with shower and rooms with shared shower. (updated Jan 2016) • Manouchehri House, No 49, 7th Emarat Al- ley, Sabet Alley, Mohtasham Street, Kashan (There • are foolproof signs from Mohtasham street.), ☎ Ehsan House, near Kamal-ol-Molk Square (Walk +98(31)−5521-2617, fax: +98(31)−5524-5531. west along Fazele Naraji Street from Kamal-ol-Molk This little restaurant is part of the Manouchehri bou- Square. When you see the street leading to Agha tique hotel. It overlooks the inner courtyard with Bozorg Mosque on your left, turn right into the al- the fountain and is tastefully decorated. The menu ley. It’s a few meters into the structure), ☎ +98 changes daily and contains Iranian dishes with culi- (31) 5544 6833, +98 (31) 5546 4600, e-mail: nary ambitions. It is a good place if you are tired of [email protected]. Check-in: 14:00, check- the standard Iranian fare. Expect better service and out: 12:00. The most atmospheric place to stay higher prices than elsewhere. Expect to pay 500,000 is Ehsan House across the road from one of the Rials per person. (updated Jan 2016) mosques. It Kashan’s first traditional house that was converted into a hotel, with a beautiful courtyard and • Abbasi Tea House & Traditional Restaurant, free Wifi and breakfast. Standard price is 300,000 off Alavi Street , Fazel Naraghi Street (It is part rials for a room which can sleep three people, but it 170 CHAPTER 80. KASHAN

is very possible to bargain. (Dec 2010: Dutch trav- a desert town you can find there. Take the buses to eller paid 150,000 for 1 person). They have both Yazd or Kerman or Zahedan and ask the driver to traditional rooms where you sleep on the floor and let you off in Na'in. There is an easier way; be on rooms with bed. It is highly recommended to get a “Avarezi” check point to get the Tehran-Na'in buses traditional room. Also ask one of the friendly staff to which cross there at 1pm and 8pm. order traditional Iranian food. (updated Jan 2012) • In the small town of Niasar, you can visit the fire • Golestan Hostel, Motahhari Square, Kashan (On temple dating back to Sassanian times, a man-made your right when you face the Bazaar’s Eastern En- cave, a Qajar palace, a waterfall, a bathhouse from trance). Negative reviews from many travellers. Not the Safavid era, a water mill, and the village itself, of clean and not a nice place for women travellers. (up- course. While none of the attractions is overwhelm- dated Jan 2012) ing by itself, it is a leisurely half-day trip.

• Amir Kabir Hotel • A trip to the sand dunes of the Maranjab desert, a salt lake and a caravanserai is on the list of many • Sayyah Hotel, Abazar street. Single room quoted Kashan visitors. It can be combined with a visit 350,000/250,000 rials with/without shower in the in the small town of Noushabad with its under- room, both including breakfast. (updated Apr 2011) ground city (a shelter people dug to take refuge from the Mongolian invaders) and the mud castle and the Holy Shrine of Helal Ali in the town Aran va Bidgol. 80.8 Go next It is also possible to have an overnight stay in the car- avanserai arranged, but don't expect too much com- fort. The salt lake is not attractive when wet after Kashan is located on the Tehran - Qom - Natanz - Isfahan rainfall. route. Thus, Tehran and Isfahan are the two logical next stops of most visitors. • In spring, the little town of is worth vis- iting. It is the biggest center in the Middle East for • Numerous buses and occasional trains connect producing rose water. Kashan to Isfahan, Tehran, and Qom. • Kashan can be your last stop in Iran before flying home. It is possible to bargain with taxi drivers for a trip to Imam Khomeini airport of Tehran, expect to pay less than 1 Million Rials (in January 2016). Alternatively, driver-guides can take you to the air- port with a stopover in Qom to visit Iran’s second holiest place, the Shrine of Fatima-al-Massumeh. If you choose this option, be sure to dress as conserva- tively as you can. • Abyaneh, a famous, historic Iranian village is in , near Kashan. With a unique reddish hue, the village is one of the oldest in Iran, attract- ing numerous native and foreign tourists year-round, especially during traditional feasts and ceremonies. The village has been called an entrance to Iranian history. The local clothing, for example, is in a style of great antiquity. An Abyunaki woman typically wears a white long scarf (covering the shoulders and upper trunk) which has a colourful pattern and an under-knee skirt. Even the most immediate villages’ women have different dress style so that one could tell if she is from Abyaneh or not. Abyaneh can be accessed on a day trip from Kashan, or you can hire a driver to take you to Abyaneh, Natanz, and drop you in Isfahan. • Na'in is another desert city, to the south. It’s a small and quiet town at the edge of desert. A perfect pat- tern of a desert town. Everything you like to see in Chapter 81

Matin Abad

Matin Abad is in Natanz County, Isfahan Province in mountainous and its village and continues to Chime Iran. and Takieh villages after crossing Hanjen village in the Chimeh ro road and at the end arrive to Firizhand Beau- tiful village. There is also a famous warm mineral water 81.1 Get in lake called the Red water. After another 2km there is also Bidhed village that is located in a beautiful valley. In this village that is located about 5 KM of Firizhand we Natanz County is half way between Isfahan city and can see glorious top of Karkas Mountain and take photo- Kashan. graph from this beautiful village.

81.2 Get around 81.3.6 Itineraries

Matin Abad ( 1 Day ) 81.3 See Day 1: 81.3.1 Abyaneh city Early in the morning drive to Matin Abad camp, eating breakfast and camel riding in Matin Abad, then continue If you want to visit Abyane through Matin abad, you will to Abyaneh where you will eat lunch and visit picturesque go from desert to mountain with crossing the distance mountain village of Abyaneh, continue to Kashan and about 40 km from height of 980 m to height of 2300 m. in visit Fin Garden and Boroujerdi’s House, drive to Tehran the you will cross of Hanjan, Barz, Toreh and Kamjan vil- or continue to Isfahan. lages till you arrive to Abyaneh. Characterized by a pecu- liar reddish hue, the village is one of the oldest in Iran, at- tracting numerous native and foreign tourists year-round, Matin Abad ( 2 Days) especially during traditional feasts and ceremonies. Day 1: Early in the morning drive Qom and Kashan, in kashan 81.3.2 Ardestan and Zavareh Villages visit Fin Garden and Boroujerdi’s House. Continue to Abyaneh, eating lunch and visiting picturesque mountain Ardestan is located about 60 km in southeast of Matin village of Abyaneh. In the evening drive to Matin Abad Abad in the transit road of Bandar Abbas. After arriving camp. Local kebab in Matin Abad. O/N in Matin Abad to Zavareh two way continue to Zavareh where you can Day 2: visit natural attractions, Jame mosque and old quarters then after drinking. Early in the morning camel riding and eating breakfast, continue to Natanz, where you will visit Jame Mosque and Imamzadeh Aqha Ali Abbas, eating lunch, drive back 81.3.3 Kashan to Tehran or continue to Isfahan.

81.3.4 Natanz 81.4 Do 81.3.5 Karkas Village • Camel riding in the desert A drive to Karkas heights could also be interesting. You can walk in the Karkas Tour includes walking Karkas • 4x4 rides in the desert

171 172 CHAPTER 81. MATIN ABAD

• Biking in the desert

• Desert excursions • Astronomy- Due to the open space and the clear skies of the desert, many go to these parts for astron- omy purposes. There are also some facilities avail- able in the Matin abad camp.

81.5 Eat

• Camel kebab • Camel milk

81.6 Drink

81.7 Go next Chapter 82

Na'in

Na'in (also known as Naein and Naeen) is a pre-Islamic More than 3,000 years ago the Persians learned how to town, more than 2,000 years old, on the edge of the Cen- construct aqueducts underground ( or kariz) to bring tral Desert of Iran in the Isfahan province of Central Iran. water from the mountains to the plains. In the 1960’s this ancient system provided more than 70 per cent of the water used in Iran and Na’in is one of the best places in all the world to see these actually working as they 82.1 Understand were intended. Unique to Na’in are some of the most outstanding mon- uments in all of Iran: the Jame Mosque, one of the first four mosques built in Iran after the Arab invasion; the Pre-Islamic Narej Fortress; a Pirnia traditional house; the Old Bazaar; Rigareh, a qanat-based watermill; and a Zurkhaneh (a place for traditional sport). Besides its magnificent monuments, Na’in is also famous for high-quality carpets and wool textiles. Some linguists believe the word Na’in may have been de- rived from the name of one of the descendants of the prophet Noah, who was called “Naen”. Many local peo- ple speak an ancient Pahlavi Sasani dialect, the same di- alect that is spoken by the Zoroastrians in Yazd today. Other linguists state that the word Na’in is derived from the word “Nei” (“straw” in English) which is a marshy plant.

82.2 Get in

From Isfahan, travellers can use the Jay terminal and take the Na'in bus or mini bus (20,000 to 25,000 rial). An alternative is the Isfahan-Yazd bus, which leaves the terminal once every hour, if they inform the driver that Na'in is their final destination and the fare is 35,000 rial. From Yazd, travellers can take the Yazd - Isfahan buses Mohammadieh neighborhood from Yazd terminal and ask the driver to stop in Na'in which costs 40,000 rial. Na’in lies 170 km north of Yazd and 140 km east of From Tehran, there are two terminals available: Jonub Isfahan and the current population is about 75,000. terminal, with buses leaving at 10:00 and 17:00; Beihaghi With an area of almost 35,000 km², Na’in lies at an alti- (Arjantin) Terminal, with one bus departing at 23:00. tude of 1545 m above sea level. Like much of the Iranian The ticket price is 100,000 rial. plateau, it has a desert climate, with a maximum temper- In Na'in, there is a regular bus to Isfahan almost every half ature of about 41°C in summer, and minimums of −9°C hour, from the only bus station in town. Private taxis are or so in winter. available 24 hours a day at the "Falake Esfahan" (Isfahan

173 174 CHAPTER 82. NA'IN

roundabout). Departing the town to Yazd is possible by interested in the alabaster stonework which reflects waiting for the buses to Yazd at the "Falake Esfahan" or sunlight throughout the basement. An underground by taking a taxi to the Yazd Road police station. water channel runs underneath the mosque. There is a stairway that connects the mosque to the water channel and to chambers above the pool. 100,000 82.3 Get around rial. (updated Nov 2015)

82.4 See

Rigareh watermill

Jame' Mosque

Rigareh second gate • Jame Mosque. Tu-Su, 08:00-21:00 in summer, or 08:00-18:00 in winter. The initial construction of Jame Mosque dates back to the 8th Century CE, but • Rigareh watermill, Mohammadieh neighbour- the whole of the complex has been constructed in hood, ☎ 0939 863 6090. Open to public only in stages. The stucco around the Mihrab (niche) be- Noruz (the Persian New Year holiday).. A qanat- longs to Ale'Buye in the 11th century. The yard was based water mill. The age of this engineering mas- constructed in the time of the Siljuks (12th century), terpiece is unknown; however, some historians be- and the basement is believed to be pre-Islamic and lieve that it dates back to the pre-Islamic era. The later became part of the mosque, one of the oldest water is supplied by the Keykhosrow qanat channel, in Iran. Its magnificent plasterwork over the niche, and the mill is placed almost 28 m underground. the marvellous brickwork around the yard, and its The access corridor to the mill is about 133 m long. silent basement--which may have been used as a fire A qanat channel crosses 9 m above the mill and fills temple before the mosque was built here—are only the huge 9 m. height water tank. When enough pres- a few of its features. This mosque has no Iwan and sure is provided, the water is released and rotates the dome as do the other famous mosques in Isfahan and turbine. The waste water flows out along the chan- Yazd. A 28 m tall octagonal was added al- nel and joins the main qanat channel with a gradual most 700 years ago. If you stand in the middle of slope 15 m further down. This is the only place in the the yard, you will find yourself surrounded by four- country where visitors can get inside a living flow- teen columns, each one adorned with a unique and ing qanat with 19 m depth, accessible through a 12 intricate pattern of brickwork. You might also be m corridor. Since the advent of electricity to grind 82.4. SEE 175

the wheat and , this water mill has become a done at this location. The Mosallah is an octago- part of history. (updated Nov 2015) nal mausoleum of dervishes and Qajar and Pahlavi political figures. It’s encompassed by a military fort • Pirnia traditional house and ethnology museum. from the Qajar era, with a high wall, thick enough Tu-Su 08:00-21:00 in summer and 08:00-17:30 in for a horse to be ridden along the top. The pistachio winter.. A perfect example of this region’s desert trees around the turquoise-domed mausoleum and houses, in terms of architecture and art, constructed two tall wind towers make the complex very photo- in the Safavid Period. The house consists of an ex- genic. (updated Nov 2015) terior, an interior, a deep garden, a silo room and all of the facilities that a lord’s house needed to have at the time it was constructed. When you enter the house and pass the first corridor, you reach an octag- onal room called “”, which used to be a waiting room for clients and visitors. Beautiful paintings, amazing plasterwork of Qur’anic stories, a book of famous poems and exquisite calligraphy decorate the living room. First, a judge of Na'in lived there. Then, during the Qajar Period, the house belonged to a governor of Na'in. Just a few decades ago, the house was purchased by the Ministry of Culture and Art. After renovation in 1994, the house was con- verted into the desert ethnology museum. 100,000 rial. (updated Nov 2015)

Mosallah

• Castle of Narenj. Also known as Narin castle. The construction materials used in the castle, as well as its style of architecture, hint that it was built in the pre-Islamic era. According to surveys and other evidence, this monument might belong to the Par- tiyan period. Its exact use is not known. How- ever, it is thought to have been part of the mili- tary and official compounds of the city. Many re- searchers of the Safavid era have spoken of numer- ous castles known as Narikh Qalae, which were used for military purposes. Hence, it can be concluded that Naeen’s Narikh Qalae was also a military es- Pirnia traditional house tablishment. The famous historian and researcher, Estakhri mentioned there was a moat with a 900 m perimeter dug around the castle. (updated Nov • Mosallah edifice. 08:00-12:00 , 15:00-17:00. An- 2015) other remarkable monument to see in Na'in. Its vast garden used to be a popular recreational area until a few years ago. The mausoleum inside the Mosal- lah was a pilgrimage site for visitors. The dome of the Mosallah is opposite the dome of the shrine of Emamzadeh Sultan Seyyed Ali; these two are con- nected by a street. There is a water reservoir on one side of the garden, which can be accessed through a stairway on its side. Water in this reservoir was cooled by two wind towers. The water reservoir (Persian: ab-anbar) was in use until a few years ago. The architectural style of Mosallah is charac- teristic of the Qajar dynasty, and a number of liter- ary, political and religious figures are buried at this site. “Mosallah” is an Arabic word for a place of Narenj citadel prayer but, no one knows if any praying was ever 176 CHAPTER 82. NA'IN

• Bazaar. Remarkable historical attraction. The bazaar extends 340 m in a curved line from the Gate of Chehel Dokhtaran to the mosque of Kha- jeh Khezr, and is connected by main alleys, as well as by tributary passages, to various neighbourhood centres. The bazaar has two main crossroads or cha- har su. Parts of it have been renovated, and its many varied stalls were active until a few years ago. How- ever, nowadays the bazaar has been almost deserted, since the retailers moved to the city’s street shops. Some important monuments, such as the mosque of Sheikh Maghrebi, the mosque of Khajeh, and the Hosseinieh of Chehel Dokhtaran, are very near. (updated Nov 2015) Fatemi House

• Mosque of Mohammadieh, Mohammadieh vil- lage (20 km east of Nain). Built in the late 10th/early 11th century AD. The altar of the mosque, and the ceilings on the two sides of its nocturnal prayer hall or Shabestan, resemble the Jameh Mosque of Na'in. The village also houses the beautiful Jameh and Sar Kuche mMosques, a fortress, the ancient Rigareh watermill and the cloak workshops. (updated Nov 2015)

• Aba Bafi Man-made Caves, Mohammadieh vil- lage. open from dawn to dusk, with a short break from noon to 13:30.. In Muhammadieh, a precinct of Na'in, there are some man-made caves. Locals call them sardab and aba bafi. Evidence shows that they were dug by the Zoroastrian inhabitants who used to live there because the cave entrances open to the east, where the sun rises. After they were aban- doned by the Zoroastrians, Muslim inhabitants used them as loom workshops to weave cloaks and rugs, from two types of sheep and camel wools. Weaving cloaks by hand is one of the most valuable hand- icrafts and historical arts of Na'in. Some of the workshops are 700 years old. There is an ancient fort over the hill, 150 m away, with a small entrance at the back. There visitors can enjoy a beautiful per- Bazaar of Na'in spective of the village and the desert around it. Free. (updated Nov 2015)

• Fatemi House. Grandest traditional house in Na'in. It’s in front of Narenj Castle, beside the old bazaar. The house was originally the possession of a very • Zurkhaneh. Zurkhaneh, Zorkhana or Zourkhaneh literally “house of ,زورخانه :influential family in Na'in. It consists of a large (in Persian/Kurdish number of sections, each one with a different func- strength”) is a sport with thousands of years of his- tion: winter living rooms, summer living rooms, sta- tory, incorporating the values of strength, joy of ef- ble, resting rooms, silos, corridors, dining rooms for fort, generosity, chivalry, love of country, of art and guests, and other facilities. Most of the rooms are literature. It has played a great role in empowering furnished with stained glass windows, inlaid wooden the mental and physical health aspects of the Ira- doors, and plasterwork. The house is now the prop- nian people. There are 3 Zurkhaneh in Na'in, but the erty of a cultural heritage organization. (updated Valiye Asr Zurkhaneh, located in Valiye Asr Street, Nov 2015) is perhaps the most suitable to visit. (updated Nov 2015) 82.7. EAT 177

Na'in has a history of using non-Iranian wools and of us- ing local, traditional designs with unique colouring, thus drawing the attention of the world market. Using natu- ral and traditional colours and dying techniques peculiar to the region, carpet weavers in the city can easily pro- fess that they are some of the best producers of handwo- ven carpet in all of Iran and the world. Na'in style car- pet is woven in different places in Iran - but the quality will be very different in each place. One reason that car- pet actually woven in Na'in is so popular, is that it uses predominantly natural and traditional colours rather than synthetic . Other reasons include the sheer quality of the weft obtained from using mainly wooden looms. This Underground man-made caves all means that Na'in can easily claim that it is one of the best producers of hand woven carpets in all Iran. Na'in’s carpets and cloaks are famous and reasonably priced. 82.5 Do Woolen textiles are available in Muhammadieh, where you can buy the handicrafts directly from the producers. • Desert trekking is one of the exceptional possibil- ities for sightseers in this desert town, since a desert with moving sand dunes surrounds Na'in. It’s desert 82.7 Eat trekking on real moving sand dunes, since there are Restaurant, located on Motahari (لاله صحرا) sand hills from 5 to 62m high that are always mov- Lale Sahra ing when the wind blows - the highest sand dunes in Street, has some typical but high-quality Persian food, Iran. with the good service. There is a place for having tradi- Also sleeping (camping) on the moving sands and tional “abgusht” in front of Masjid-ar-Reza. Also, “del- having breakfast there if you like. There is no regu- o-jigar” is available in a small shop front of Laleh Park. lar desert transport, so a private taxi or car should be You can have a delicious meal for just US$2. Mirza tra- rented. The same man who rents bicycles can also ditional restaurant is scheduled to open soon. organize the budget tours to the desert.

• Mountaineering: There are some desert-type 82.8 Drink mountains west and north east of Na'in. The one to the north east(as you see in the middle and lower photo) is worth a visit. There are some unpaved If you want to taste a good yoghurt drink, you can find it -is a sour drink made from yo (دوغ) roads that lead there. Downhill bicycle is recom- at Del'o Jigar . Doogh mended, but do not visit there alone. Also there is ghurt, salt, and water; sometimes carbonated and some- a walking tour called survival tour available in the times flavoured with mint or other plants. It is an acquired mountainous area in distances of 5km, 10km and taste but will rehydrate you quickly in the heat of Iran’s 15km. For more info call the local guide. summer. It is the same as Turkish ayran.

• Cycling around: 82.9 Sleep

There is a local guide who has bicycles to rent and also • Jahangardi Hotel (ITTO) (south of Imam Square, accompany you to the mountaineering. You can call him toward Isfahan Road), ☎ +98 314625-3088. The at ☎ +98 939 863 6090. government-run, excellent Jahangardi Hotel can ac- commodate both budget and mid-range traellers. It has stylish, split-level, apartment-style rooms. 82.6 Buy • Mosaferkhaneh Gholami (Gholami Inn)(about Handmade products in Na'in are very important. Weav- 300 m east of Imam Square, toward the Imamzadeh), ing carpets, a fine art, began in Na'in about the time of ☎ +98 314625-2441. Good value for budget trav- World War II. Because carpet weavers from Na'in worked ellers. There is no English sign, but it’s a three-story with thinner wools, they began to weave rugs of much building with a bakery on the ground floor. higher quality. Since the number of carpets produced was low and the quality of carpets was exceptionally high, the There is a free, quiet, secure place for camping for those weavers found a profitable market. Carpet-weaving in who like to stay outdoors. It is popular among cyclists, 178 CHAPTER 82. NA'IN motorcyclists and backpackers. It’s in the historical com- plex of Babol Masjid, where the Jameh Mosque is lo- cated. The camping area is the open part of Hussainieh. The public rest room is always open. The locals are very friendly and helpful. The Hussainieh is off-limits only during religious ceremonies. Two hotels are going to be open within two years in the historical part of town. One hotel will be traditional; the other in the mid-range class. Naein has two other hotels. Rooms at all four hotels can be reserved in advance and at a discount, depending on the season. Each hotel is staffed by an English-speaking hotel manager.

82.10 Connect

Mohammadieh fort

031 is the town code.

82.11 Go next

There is a regular bus to Isfahan almost every half an hour from the only bus station in town. Private Taxis are avail- able 24 hours a day on the Falake Esfahan (Isfahan round- about). Trips to Yazd are possible by waiting for the buses to Yazd on Falake Esfahan or taking a taxi to the Yazd Road police station. Chapter 83

Varzaneh

Varzaneh is an ancient central Iranian desert town in 83.2 Get in Isfahan province still showing evidence of its 5000 year old civilization. From Esfahan, travellers can go to the Jey terminal and take the Varzaneh buses or minibuses, paying IRR20,000 (less than USD1). You do not need to do a reservation for ticket in advance. You may go directly to Jey Terminal and ask the Terminal staff where the bus (or minibus) is. 83.1 Understand Almost once per hour, 07:00-17:00, there is a bus going to Varzaneh. It takes 1h30 to reach there. Plenty of taxis are also available usually in front of Terminal to reach Varzaneh is located 105km southeast of Isfahan and Varzaneh. You would pay about USD10-15 to get there 240km away from Yazd. with a taxi. It has a population of 14,000 sprawling over 23,000km² From Tehran, you need to go to Jonub terminal, with at an altitude of 1477m above sea level. Like most parts buses leaving at 09:00 daily to Harand, a town about of central Iran, it has a quite dry desert climate where, 20km away from Varzaneh. For Harand-Varzaneh, you in July, temperatures can reach 40°C. The temperature will be finding very cheap taxis. sometimes drops below zero in January and February af- From Yazd, travellers can take the Yazd-Esfahan buses ter midnight. from Yazd terminal and ask the driver to stop in Naein Varzaneh was the last civilization on the Zayanderud river which costs IRR60,000. Then from Nain, it is 70km to since 5000 years ago. The Zayanderud river ends at Varzaneh, for which you may take a taxi. Gavkhouni which is 30km east of Varzaneh. Within the In Varzaneh, there is a regular bus to Esfahan almost one lands between wetland and Varzaneh, signs of very an- every hour until 14:00. Note that the last bus to Isfahan cient civilization are unearthed. Further investigations on from Varzaneh is at 14:00. For departure, just ask local some pots that have been discovered, confirms the fact people where to find the bus terminal (autobus terminal, that the district of Varzaneh has been inhabited for 5,000 as the locals call it) from the only bus station in town. years. Private taxis are available 24 hours a day. To reach Yazd, Varzaneh is famous regionally and all over the world for you would need to take a taxi to Na'in. From there it is its spectacular desert, which ranked as one of the most very easy, as all the buses going to Yazd from Isfahan and accessible deserts of Iran, in particular for tourists com- Tehran will pass Na'in. So, if you stop at Road Police ing to Isfahan. Many travellers like their desert close to station around Na'in, you will find a bus to Yazd within civilization - that way they have food and water easy to 15 min. It takes all in all 3 hours to reach Yazd from reach by car, and access to medical centres in the case of Varzaneh. any problem. Although, Varzaneh desert is ranked as one of the safest deserts of Iran, it’s only 15km away from its desert. 83.3 Get around Unique to Varzaneh, are the local women’s costumes. They wear completely white chadors, while women in the 83.3.1 Vartun Hot Spring rest of Iran, mostly wear black chadors. Many local people speak an ancient Pahlavi Sasani di- Precisely, 12km away from Vartun village, and 90km alect, a quite similar dialect to that spoken by the Zoroas- from Varzaneh town, there is hot spring. The pools are lo- trians in Yazd today. According to some of linguists, the cated inside a traditional historical buildings, dating back word Varzaneh, has a connection to the verb Varzidan to Safavid era. Due to the fact that its hot water is rich in which means farming in old Persian. many minerals, its medical effects for nervous and joint ,(ورزیدن)

179 180 CHAPTER 83. VARZANEH pains has been verified. The complex is equipped with simply called Black Mountain, (Persian Kooh-Siah, massage room. ). The stones are very light, having many holes in- side. The mountain is indeed the remaining of black mag- mas. 83.4 See

83.4.1 Varzaneh Desert

Salt Lake, in Khara near Varzaneh

Another interesting spot is the salt lake, which in fact be- longs to Gavkhooni ecosystem, being the southwestern part of the wetlands. It is more than 15km² in area and the salt plain stretches to the wetlands. There is a part of Trying hard to conquer a sandy hill, difficult job as they are very that which locals are mining salt from. It is very glori- soft ous and attractive for many tourists when they see a blue sky with purely vast white ground. There is a short road The sand dunes are from 5-62m high. The average height to Salt lake from Varzaneh, which is not asphalt unfortu- of sandy dunes are highest between deserts of Iran. So, it nately. Therefore, people willing to visit the salt lake, take makes the landscape spectacular. the Shiraz road from Varzaneh for about 40km, reaching to Khara village. Then from Khara, you have about 15 More importantly, there is no regular transport from km in an specific road for salt lake. Starting from 8 km in Varzaneh to the desert, which is just 15km away. How- latter road, you will see the signs of a big salty area until ever, taxis would be quite cheap to take you to desert. 10km afterwards. The sand dunes usually do not move considerably, that is to say, you can camp for several nights there, having an easy access to town. However, please note that except 83.4.3 Jame Mosque of Varzaneh for late spring and summer, the temperature often drops below 10°C and to 10 degrees below freezing in January The Jame Mosque of Varzaneh was built initially in 1100 and February), due to the lack of humidity. Thus, you AD. But, three centuries later, in the Timurid era, it was would need sleeping bags if you want to camp there. The extensively renovated. Its splendid Mihrab and all the tile desert is about 45km long in diameter. designs at entrance of mosque and around the Mihrab makes the mosque a very special one in this region. You do not need to pay to visit this 600 years old mosque. 83.4.2 Gavkhooni Wetland, Black Moun- However, you may skip the time of saying prayers, i.e., tain and Salt Lake still local people say prayer here, three times a day. That is to say that, if you do not wish to say prayer with them, The magic point of this region is that, close to Varzaneh you would better to wait for some minutes, to let the local dry desert, you can find Gavkhooni wetland. Gavkhooni people leave the mosque, and visit the mosque. The door is a preserved ecosystem, which is host of thousands is open from very early morning, until 1 hour after sunset. of bird, migrating from north mostly. The number of Though, if there is an occasion, including celebrations, the birds varies each year, depending on the rainfall of memorial of a recently passed away local people, then that year. In fact, the majority of wetland is dry each mosque might be a bit occupied a couple of hours per day. year. Generally, the wetland has a rich wildlife. From If there is such specific occasion, you would be listening gees, storks, flamingos and Iranian zebras and deers to to quite loud voice from the only 20m high minaret of many other reptiles can be found in this area. To reach mosque, from almost all of the town. That is actually a Gavkhooni, you need to take the Gavkhooni road on the function of Jame mosques in Persian post-Islamic age. In east of Varzaneh for about 25km. As a sign of your arrival particular, on Friday noons, you could listen to the speech to wetland, you would see a completely black mountain, Imam speaking about religion and recent social, political 83.4. SEE 181 issues. Like any other religious center around the world, 83.4.6 Folklore attractions from churches to temples, to enter such mosque wearing modest clothes is necessary. Women’s costume The dome and the minaret of the mosque is clear from almost everywhere in town, therefore it is easy to reach. Women’s costumes in Varzaneh have attracted very much It is in fact located in the very centre of town. attention in media. In contrary to the rest of Iran, women typically wear white chadors, rather than black ones. There are basically three theories so far to describe the whiteness of women’s clothes in Varzaneh. Some believe 83.4.4 The Old Bridge that this harks back to the Zoroastrianism religion, for which white was a holy colour. Others believe that it is because of the abundance of cotton in this region, as peo- ple have been cultivating cotton here. While some peo- ple simply think white is a comfortable colour due to hot summers.

Handicrafts

Varzaneh hand-crafted carpet is very famous in the world. Its design belongs to a general category of Na'in carpet design. Many women are still using natural threads, in- cluding silk and wool which makes the carpet of very high quality. It has been attractive for visitors to buy their car- pets in Varzaneh, buying them much cheaper that in the markets of other cities. A 900-year-old bridge in Varzaneh Weaving tablecloths using very traditional instruments is another item of beauty made by women. In the picture, The bridge is the last old bridge over Zayanderud river and you can see a picture of woman using such devices. The has 10 arches; 7 of the arches were built about 9 centuries woman says: if you work hard for a whole day, you can ago during the Seljuq dynasty. While an extension of the have one table cloth of 1 square metre size at sunset. three other arches was done by local people about 140 years ago. You would be able to recognize the extension by a small wall. The bridge is 67m long and 6.5m wide. 83.4.7 1000-year-old Ghoortan Citadel The old bridge connects the old district of town to the new one. The ancient Ghoortan old bridge is located 12km west of Some boat bike and motorboat tours are organized around Isfahan, and you can reach it directly from Isfahan, be- the bridge for tourists. You would pay USD1 to take a ing 90km east of Isfahan city. It’s located on the bank of short tour. the Zayanderud river and has survived natural disasters and many wars for 1000 years. Having very thick walls made of adobe mud brick) made it a protected complex for people living in the region. The thickness of walls 83.4.5 Yusefi traditional house and ethnol- varies from 3 to 4m and they are about 9m high. The ogy museum citadel has an area of 40,000 square metres. Nowadays, only four families are living inside. The citadel is con- Yusefi house is a sample of very beautiful Qajar design taining four mosques, a pigeon house, a water reservoir, traditional big house. In Yusefi house, you would be find- a mill and many houses. It is protected by fourteen round ing bedrooms, baking room, guestroom, water reservoir, towers and you would enter by two gateways. fountain and gardens, wells and windows in traditional kind. The house currently has a function of museum as well, having collection of photo tableaux from local re- 83.4.8 Dovecote (Pigeon houses) gion, a sample of all of agriculture and cuisine appliances and gadgets. The house truly introduce you how people In dry regions, like Varzaneh district, the droppings were in Varzaneh and villages around were living hundreds of prized by farmers and collected for fertilizing their arid years ago. Yusefi house is located in northern part of old fields. From Varzaneh to the west, until Ezhieh (a town district of town, close to an intersection which is so-called 25km west of Varzaneh), and also from south to Hassan- mean- abad (a town 25km south of Varzaneh) there are plenty of ,"دروازه عباس between locals as " Darvazeh-Abbas ing (King) Abbas gate. dovecotes or pigeon houses. The dovecote are also called 182 CHAPTER 83. VARZANEH

83.4.10 Ox-well complex

Haj-Ibrahim revived the system from 50 years ago, using an specific race of ox which is so-called between locals as race(Zabol is a town in southeast of Iran). In the case of Haj-Ibrahim’s ox, it took more than 6 months to prepare the ox, being wild in the beginning. The very astonishing part is that now ox would work only by the song of his owner, in the sense that, the ox would start working and taking water from well, when Haj-Ibrahim starts singing. Plenty of such oxen can be found at south- ern east of Iran, or in Baluchistan region of Pakistan. The complex is mainly a well, an ox, rope, pulley and bucket. Using this system, water will be pumped to the fields, Dovecote: a house of 7,000 pigeons from 3 centuries ago without making air pollution. For six hour working of an ox per day, the water for 1500 square metres wheat field will be supplied, which is very efficient system. The sys- Kabootarkhaneh in Persian literature, which means sim- tem was broadly used from 600 years ago, till 5 years ago, ply house of pigeons. when gradually farmers started to use fuel water-pumping Life in this region is very connected to farming, as more machines. Visiting this complex, Haj-Ibrahim will offer than 70 percent of people’s businesses are directly or in- you tea. The entrance would be IRR40,000 (USD1.20). directly connected to agriculture. In below picture, you can see one of pigeon houses of Varzaneh by close view, located on north at Zayanderud bank. It had been the host 83.4.11 Water reservoirs and Wind-towers of 7000 pigeons, having an area of 250 square metres and (Wind-catchers) being 13m high. This structure date backs to 300 years ago, the Safavid era.

83.4.9 Camel-mill Complex

First camel mill revived after a century in Iran

An old system of grinding wheat, has been revived for us- ing male camels. Historically, the last time Iranian were using this system was a century ago. Mr. Mohammadi, the owner and founder of the camel-mill, is using it mostly A water reservoir employs a wind-catcher to cool its water for tourist purposes, though he grinds wheat occasionally. He sings, while pulling rope of camel, a very nice folklore A water reservoirs or āb anbār (Persian: ) is song. The building is designed in completely traditional a traditional reservoir or cistern of drinking water in Per- manner, as you can see in the pictures. The camel-mill is sian antiquity. While, a wind-catcher (in Persian, Bad- located off road of cemetery of town. Mr Mohammadi gir, ) is traditional Persian architectural element will offer you tea if somebody visits camel-mill. The en- to create natural ventilation in buildings. In Varzaneh, trance would be IRR40,000 (USD1.20) you can see a water-reservoir employed a windtower to 83.7. EAT 183 cool down its water. There are seven water reservoirs in 83.6.1 Varzaneh Carpet and other handi- Varzaneh in total. crafts

Varzaneh carpet is really famous regionally and world- 83.4.12 Caravansary wide. Having many silk parts, and the mixture of colors make the a typical of Varzaneh carpet light and some- There is a saying that King Abbas I established 999 car- times shiny. You can order them in hotels, guest houses avanserai in the Persian empire to facilitate and promote in Varzaneh. As more than 60% of ladies in Varzaneh trade and travelling, one of them is in Varzaneh. You can are still weaving carpet in their homes, you can ask any find this caravansary in eastern exit road of Varzaneh, be- random local also to show you his/her carpet. The prices ing about 400 years old. may vary from 100 to 2,000 Euro, depending on the size and quality. 83.4.13 Other touristic spots Also, there are several houses still weaving tablecloth. You can get many of them directly from local houses, There are many other attractions worth sightseeing, in- or in guest houses, costing IRR10,000 (2.5 Euro) to cluding windmills around river, small waterfalls over IRR400,000 (10 Euro) for different sizes. Zayanderud river. Varzaneh is also very famous for Gavkhooni Wetland (swamp), Salt Lake, Salt mine and Salt plain of Khara, for which you can find their details in 83.6.2 Herbal teas and organic alimentary Get Around part of page. In addition, buying herbal teas, such as borage, Iranian black tea, Shirazi chamomile, henna and local sweets can be found in shops. Local alfalfa honey and also 83.5 Do honey from holy plant of manna also can be found, as a few families are involved in beekeeping. As Varzaneh has • Desert entertainments and sports: Varzaneh both farms of alfalfa and many manna in its deserts, honey desert is great place for camel-riding, horse-riding, from these two plants are in good quality. Heidari family paragliding, safari, motorcycling, camping, sand- have been pioneer for beekeeping, and creating beehives, boarding. You may find relevant photos at the bot- supporting local agriculture as well. tom of the page. Equipment devices for these sports and entertainments can be found in local clubs and tourist camps, in Varzaneh and around the desert. 83.7 Eat

• Observing sky (without and with telescope): If Varzaneh district has a high reputation of tradition of or- you pass 3 or 4 hills inside the desert, where you are ganic (bio) food. Hereby, a short list of tastiest foods you safe from any light-pollution, from Varzaneh town, may try in Varzaneh. Except the possibility to ask local you would truly enjoy a glorious sky. It you go in organic food in hotel/hostel dinning sections, you may a suitable time there, ie when it is not cloudy and ask the locals for Gol-Hossein restaurant, as the oldest is at a minimum, then you would not restaurant of Varzaneh. You may consider the fact that need a telescope to recognize many classic objects in Varzaneh is a small town, and therefor any spot is quite sky. In this situation, you will be finding the Milky easy to find. Way easily, even without a telescope! • Eggplant dish (Kashk Bademjan, • Rent a boat: You may rent a motorboat or pedalo- in Persian) As a must-to-say, it is a national food boat to enjoy it in Zayanderud river. Such boats can of Iran, but as a tradition, people in Varzaneh cook be found to rent near The Old Bridge of Varzaneh. it very well. It basically contains walnut, olive oil, , eggplant, mint, , onion and (liquid or dried) whey. In the village, additionally, they • Mountain climbing: Mount Ergesht is located in include saffron and pistachio. It is famous as one the northeast of Varzaneh, on the road to Nain, of the tastiest vegetarian food of Iran. Though, to 15km away from Varzaneh town. Mount Ergesht make it as vegan food, you may ask to not add is 2000m high. There is no bus dedicated for going whey, as it is basically obtained from yogurt. You to this mountain. Taking a taxi is probably the best may order homemade eggplant dish in any of the option. hotels/hostels of Varzaneh.

• : Again as another national food of 83.6 Buy Iran, people of Varzaneh have a tradition of cook- ing this food more special. It mostly contain kidney 184 CHAPTER 83. VARZANEH

beans (or red beans), parsley, (or green onions serviced-apartment, with private bathroom and toi- instead), , dried leaves, Persian let, and TV and can be reserved with IRR200,000 , a bit onion and turmeric, and chopped lamb (only €5, or USD7). It’s a house converted to a ho- meat. tel, with plenty of flowers in the yard. Reservation via e-mail or text will get you confirmation by re- • Fesenjan: Pomegranate paste, chicken or duck turn. In a temporary collaboration with Yasna Guest breast, walnuts, sugar, saffron and onion. House, You can ask any of the friendly staff, who speak English, French and Persian, for home-made • Organic bread: Still, much part of Varzaneh cuisine food. is ignorant to artificial additives. You would not be surprised if you are walking in a weekend or holiday • Chapaker traditional guest house is a traditional in Varzaneh, and you smell continuously bread bak- house, with private bathroom and toilet, and TV ing smell, as indicated above almost nobody goes to and can be reserved with IRR 500 000or usd bakery. Just in the bread, you usually find safflower, $15. Reservation via e-mail or text will get you fennel, (black and white) sesame seeds inside/on the confirmation by return. You can ask any of the bread. Just ask a local you have a willing to try some. friendly staff, who speak English, and Persian, for You would be always able to catch some for free, as home-made food. +98 913 203 0096, khalili- everybody has some at homes. Almost all of the [email protected]. restaurants and hotels in Varzaneh provide you the food with organic local food. In religious gather- ings, and also in Thursday afternoons when people 83.10 Connect gather in graveyard, you can get some 'malak', which is a kinda oil-bread cooked with turmeric and some 0314 is the town code. other spices.

83.8 Drink 83.11 Go next • There is a regular bus to Isfahan from Varzaneh al- Getting herbal teas, and drinking some in outdoor is really most every hour until 14:00. Note that the last bus suggested. In old supermarkets, as they call it Baqali, you departs at 14:00. But it does not mean that you can- can always get some classic herbal teas, such as borage, not go to Isfahan after 14:00. Experiences of many root, and saffron. Other routine beverages such hitchhikers shows that it is very easy to find a car as dough also can be found all around easily. taking you to Isfahan. Just stop in front of the gas station of Varzaneh. There is big yellow shelter with a bench equipped for people doing auto-stop (hitch- 83.9 Sleep hiking). You do not save much money by hitch- hiking, as Varzaneh-Isfahan bus costs IRR20,000 Most hostels and hotels are very cheap. Many tourist (USD0.75). Also, since taxi drivers frequently go to come to stay for a week or more to enjoy sunlight and Isfahan, as they may have business, they would not silence in desert, as it is in between two other major des- charge much cheaper than normal price. For depar- tinations, Isfahan and Yazd. ture by bus, just ask local people where to find the bus terminal (autobus terminal, as the locals call it) from the only bus station in town. Private taxis are 83.9.1 Budget available 24 hours a day.

• Yasna Traditional Guest House ☎ +98 913 214 • To reach Yazd, you would need to take a taxi to 9851 (mobile) ([email protected]) is a tra- Na'in. From there it is very easy, as all the buses go- ditional mud-brick guest house, with private bath- ing to Yazd from Isfahan and Tehran will pass Na'in. room and toilet. A bed in dormitory section and So, if you stop at Road Police station around Na'in, private rooms can be reserved with IRR300,000 you will find a bus to Yazd within 15 min. It takes all (only €7, or USD9) up to IRR500,000 (only €12, in all 3 hours to reach Yazd from Varzaneh. Taxis or USD15). Reservation via e-mail or text will get would also not be expensive to take you to Na'in or you confirmation by return. You can ask any of the even to Yazd directly, as many people would go for friendly staff, who speak English, French and Per- other reasons to Yazd and Na'in. As for hitchhiking, sian, for home-made food. it doesn't always work on the Varzaneh-Yazd route. But, luckily, you can catch many of the buses going • Sandbad hotel apartment ☎ +98 913 214 9851 to Na'in paying IRR100,000 (about USD3.00) (mobile) ([email protected]) is a cosy Chapter 84

Kerman (province)

• Shahr-e-Babak

• Mahan

• Bam

• Shahdad

• Rayen

84.2 Other destinations

• Khabr

• Kohpayeh

• Koh-banan Location of Kerman province within Iran • Sirch Kerman Province is one of the 30 provinces of Iran. It is • Joopar in the southeast of the country. Its center is Kerman. The province of Kerman is the second largest in Iran, 181,714 km². The population of the province is 2652413 . The main townships of Kerman province are: , , 84.3 Understand Bam, Jiroft, , Zarand, , Shahr-e-Babak, Kerman, Mahan and Kohnoj. Kerman province is considered a paradise for palaeon- tologists because of an abundance of vertebrate fossils from different geological eras. Fossils include Placo- 84.1 Cities dermi, jawed and jawless armoured fish dating back to Devonian era or first geological era (395 to 365 million years ago), dinosaurs dating back to the Jurassic era (195 • Kerman to 65 million years ago) and mammals from the Third • Jiroft Geological Era (ranging from two to seven million years ago). • Zarand The history of human settlements in the territory of Ker- • Sirjan man dates back to the 4th millennium BC. This area is considered as one of the ancient and valu- • able historical vestiges have been discovered here. Jiroft is an example, where a previously unknown settlement • Bardsir dating back to around 2500BC has just been established by archeologists. Kerman has an abundance of historical • sites and landmarks, 283 in total, according to Iran’s Cul- • Rafsanjan tural Heritage Organization. Ancient abandoned citadels such as Arg-é Bam and Rayen castle have been preserved • Baft in the desert for two thousand years.

185 186 CHAPTER 84. KERMAN (PROVINCE)

Historical documents refer to Kerman as “Karmania”, • The cultural landscape of Maymand, inscribed on “Kermania”, “Germania” and "Žermanya”, which means the UNESCO World Heritage List bravery and combat. Geographers have recorded Ker- man’s ancient name as “Go'asheer” (Bardesheer). 84.7.1 Itineraries

84.4 Talk 84.8 Do

84.5 Get in 84.9 Eat

84.5.1 By plane kashk Bademjan Dizzy Khoresht Sabzi Kalle Pacheh Candies: Shohan Ghotab Pistachio Date Kerman International Airport (IATA: KER) has regular flights to all major and some smaller cities in Iran. 84.10 Drink 84.5.2 By bus 84.11 Sleep Kerman is well connected to most parts of the country by bus. Five-star Pars Hotel

84.5.3 By car 84.12 Stay safe Freeways connect the province to Yazd, Sistan-va- Baloochestan, Hormozgan, Khorasan-e-Jonoobi and Fars. 84.13 Learn

Kerman province contains the following universities: 84.5.4 By Train • Shahid Bahonar University of Kerman Kerman is connected to the whole railway network of • Kerman University of Medical Sciences Iran. It is connected to Yazd and also it will be connected to Zahedan in the near future (under construction). • Rafsanjan University of Vali Asr • Rafsanjan University of Medical Sciences 84.6 Get around • Islamic Azad University of Baft • Islamic Azad University of Zarand 84.7 See • Islamic Azad University of Kerman • Islamic Azad University of Jiroft • Islamic Azad University of Bam • Islamic Azad University of Bardsir • Islamic Azad University of Shar-e-Babak • Islamic Azad University of Kahnuj • Islamic Azad University of Rafsanjan • Islamic Azad University of Sirjan • Kerman Khaje-Nasir Higher Education Center • Shahid Chamran College of Thechnology

The village of Maymand 84.14 Go next Chapter 85

Bam

This article covers the Iranian city; for the Russian railway 85.5 Buy line see: Baikal-Amur Mainline. Bam is a city in Kerman, Iran. The modern Iranian city 85.6 Eat of Bam surrounds the Bam citadel which has been in- scribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Bam was devastated by an earthquake in December 2003. 85.7 Drink

85.8 Sleep

• Akbar Guest House is probably still the cheapest place in town. Bam in 2002 85.9 Go next 85.1 Get in

There are plans to extend the train line from Tehran to Bam.

85.2 Get around

The city stretches out a lot so you might want to use a savari to get to the Arg.

85.3 See

The ancient citadel of Arg-é Bam probably has a history dating back around 2000 years, to the Parthian dynasty (248 BC–224 AD), but most buildings were built during the Safavid dynasty. The city was largely abandoned due to an Afghan invasion in 1722, which ended Safavid rule.

85.4 Do

The main attraction, the ancient citadel of Arg-é Bam, suffered badly in an earthquake in December 2003. To- day little is still to be seen and access is extremely re- stricted; there is only one main access path still open to the public and the castle on top of the hill is out of bounds.

187 Chapter 86

Kerman

Kerman is the capital of Kerman. 86.2.3 By car

Freeways connect the city to Yazd(300 Km), Zahedan, 86.1 Understand Bandare Abbas(600 km), Birjand and Shiraz(600 km), Mashhad (1,200) km.

Kerman is a city in southeastern Iran with 677,650 inhab- itants (2006), situated on a sandy plain 1749 metres above 86.2.4 By Train sea level. It is the capital of Kerman with 2,652,413 in- habitants (2006) and an area of 181,714 km². Kerman is Kerman is connected to the whole railway network of the largest carpet producing and exporting center in Iran. Iran. It is connected to Yazd and also it will be connected Kerman is a large producer of pistachios on the world to Zahedan in the near future(Under construction). market. The province is rich in minerals, like copper, coal, chromium, lead, zinc, uranium and aluminum, but mining has remained on a small scale. In recent times crude oil has been discovered, but is yet not exploited. 86.3 Get around

You can get around the city by taxi or bus. You can also 86.2 Get in go to the small towns such as Mahan, Joopar Shahdad, ...as well as the villages, such as Sirch, Zngi-Abad and ... by bus or taxi. 86.2.1 By plane

Kerman International Airport (IATA: KER) has regular flights to some major and smaller cities in Iran. The des- 86.4 See tinations include: • Bazaar - Explore the arcades of the bazaar, indulge 1. Tehran (3-4 flights per day) in the smells of oriental spices.

2. Isfahan (1 flight per week) • Gonbad-e-Jabaliyeh - An amazing dome in the east of Kerman. 3. Zahedan (1 flight per week)

4. Mashad (2 flights per week) • Ganjalikhan bath - A historic bath

5. Kish Island (2 flights per week) • Mouyedi Ice-House - There are several small- gardens around this ice-house which were filled with 6. Kermanshah the water in winter, then after that the water iced, the ices lead to the ice-house to use in summer. 7. Shiraz • San'ati museum - An interesting museum in con- 86.2.2 By bus temporary arts of Kerman.

Kerman is well connected to most parts of the country by • Vakil traditional tea house - An attractive tradi- bus. tional tea house in the covered bazar.

188 86.7. EAT 189

• Ganjali Khan Square - It is similar to “Naghshe • Patteh is a unique handicraft which is produced in Jahan” and “Mirchakhmaq” squares. The bazaars Kerman. are located in three side of square and in the fourth (قِوتو - قاووت:Quvetoo (Persian • side, the Ganjali Khan School is established. • Distills, Kerman have many kinds of aromatic dis- • Ganjali Khan Mosque - It is located in the north- tills. west of square and near Ganjalikhan School. It was constructed in 1007 A.H. 86.7 Eat • Zarabkhaneh museum - It is located in the north side of square. This eight-angle place includes an You can almost find any food that is served in other cites arch, four porticoes and four booths in four views. of iran.There are many restaurants ( both fast food and Now, it has changed to coin museum. traditional) around the city and notably on Jomhuri Blv.

• Jameh mosque - The Friday mosque. • Qal'eh Restaurant and Teahouse, Alley No. 9, Imam street, Northeast of Square. A • Moshtri-ye-Moshtak Ali Shah - A holy shrine. traditional Iranian teahouse that serves tea, snacks and shisha. The owner, Mahmood (speaks Farsi only), can be reached at 09135313537. • (Imam mosque) - A gem of a mosque!

• National Library, housed in a former a textile fac- 86.8 Drink tory. Drinking alcohol is illegal, and if seen by police may be • Museum of the Holy Defense - Interesting instal- met with punishment, though available on the black mar- lation in the courtyard, depicting a battlefield in the ket. Shatt-el-arab. Admission 3000 IRR. • Doogh is a popular and delicious naturally- carbonated yogurt drink. It is generally served with • Takht-e-Darya-Gholi-Beyg - A monument in the ice and a dash of mint. side of the hills in the east of Kerman. • Distills - Kerman have many kinds of aromatic dis- • Ghal'e Dokhtar - A historical castle in the hills in till’s. the east of Kerman; attributed to the Ashkanian era. • Pāloodeh-e-Kermani (Fāloodeh-e-Kermani) is a • Ghal'e Ardeshir - A historical castle in the hills in special deliciously refreshing sorbet made from the east of Kerman; attributed to the Ashkanian era. small drops of starch, suspended in rosewater. is the national drink of (چای ,Black tea (chāi • 86.5 Do alcohol-free Iran. It is served strong and with which is (قند ,crystallised or cubed sugar (ghand held artfully between the teeth while tea is sipped 86.6 Buy through. • -A wide vari ,(آب ميوه ,Rugs, Like many Iranian cities, Kerman produces Fruit juices (āb miveh • and drinks (آب ميوه ,rugs and has its own well-known style of rug- ety of fruit juices (āb miveh making. are available from shops and street vendors includ- (شربت آلبالو ,ing cherry cordial (sharbat ālbāloo .(شير موز ,Pistachio, Kerman is the center of producing the and banana milkshakes (shir moz • pistachio in Iran. More than 95% of Iran pistachio is produced in Kerman. • Soft drinks are widely available, both international makes such as Coca-Cola and Pepsi, and their brand • Kolompeh is a very delicious pie names including 7up, Sprite, Fanta, etc., and lo- • Henna a flowering plant which is another souvenir cal makes such as ZamZam. Note that “Coca- of kerman. Cola Original” and “Pepsi Original” etc. are NOT made of original The Coca-Cola Company’s and • a herbaceous annual plant, which is another PepsiCo’s ingredients and taste exactly the same as souvenir of kerman. ZamZam. 190 CHAPTER 86. KERMAN

• Ma-o-sha'eir is a non-alcoholic beer which you can attention from interested Iranians, but do not be alarmed find in the supermarkets. or react negatively. Standard advice to keep your bag se- cured and safe, and to leave personal and valuable belong- ings in your hotel room or hotel safe should be regarded. 86.9 Sleep Iranians are generally peaceful, hospitable people, but it is advised to act with caution when walk in the streets • Pars Hotel, Jomhuri Blvd. - Kerman, ☎ alone late at night or when approached by strangers to the +98(0)341 2119331-2, fax: +98(0)341 2119333, e- same degree that you would in your native country. mail: [email protected] ker- You might want to have plastic money to prevent having man [email protected]. your money stolen. Bank-e Melli-ye Iran (National Bank of Iran) which is a government-owned bank in Iran, pro- • Akhavann Hotel, Shahid Sodooghi Ave., ☎ vides an ATM debit card service (plastic magnetic card) 0098(+)341 2441411-2. for tourists who visit Iran. Tourists just need to head the • Govashir Hotel, Imam Khomeini Expreress way., nearest branch of this bank. Information on this service ☎ 0098(+)341 2512718. can be found here. Another way to prevent having your money stolen, is going to the nearest bank and getting a • Hotel Omid has the cheapest rooms in town, but no gift card. They are exactly like ordinary ATM debit cards, singles. but once they get empty, they cannot be recharged. Sepah Bank or Bank -e- Sepah is a governmental bank that has a current account service for foreigners which provides 86.10 Learn both ATM debit card and cheque writing option. A list of permitted Iranian banks can be found here • Shahid Bahonar University of Kerman is one of the highest rank universities in Iran (among the 8 top 86.11.1 Emergency services phone num- Iranian universities) for its educational and research bers activities as well as its design and development. The university was granted permission to be established • Police: 110 on August 9,1972 and started its academic activities formally in 1975, in 3 disciplines: Physics, Chem- • Fire department: 125 istry, and English; with 10 faculty members and 70 • students.The university is located in the south east- EMS: 115 ern part of Kerman, in an area of 500 hectares. • Road EMS: 115 or 112 At the present time, it has an enrollment of about 12500 students who are studying and doing research in 16 colleges and research institutes of the univer- sity. There is about 140,000 square meters physical 86.12 Go next space available. There are about 100 different dis- ciplines available for the students to choose from, • Visit Rayen Castel with a magnificent old citadel which offers programs leading to B.A., B.Sc., M.A., (similar to Bam). M.Sc., D.V.M.,or Ph.D. degrees. There are 400 fac- • Mahan is only 30 kilometers away. Thereby you can ulty members, and 1000 regular employees at the see Shazdeh’s garden which is a UNESCO World university. Heritage Site and about 5.5 hectares with a rectan- gular shape and a wall around it. The garden is a • Afzali Pour (Kerman) University of Medical Sci- fine example of Persian gardens that take advantage ences of suitable natural climate. As well as the Shah- Ne'matollah-e-Vali monument. • Azad University of Kerman

• Kerman Khaje-Nasir Higher Education Center

• Shahid Chamran College of Thechnology

86.11 Stay safe

Iran is generally a safe country. It is advised however, that being an obvious tourist may attract some unwanted Chapter 87

Mahan

Mahan is a town in Kerman (province), 30 Km from Kerman, on the way of Kerman-Bam.

Tiled mausoleum interior in the Shrine of Shah Nematollah Vali

87.2 Get around

Apart from Bagh-e-shazdeh, everything is in walking dis- tance. You can go to Bagh-e-shazdeh by taxi.

87.3 See

• Aramgah-e-Shah Ne'matollah Vali mosque (En- trance fee 25000 IRR) • The tomb of Shah Nur-eddin Nematollah Vali, poet, sage, Sufi and founder of an order of dervishes, has twin minarets covered with turquoise tiles from the bottom up to the cupola. • Karavan Sarai the old Karavan sarai is an impres- sive building with good views from the roof. Ask the Shah-Ne'matollah-e-Vali monument friendly lady at the tourist office to take you there. • Historical house the only historical house that is still in its original condition. No entrance fees, don't 87.1 Get in pay the touts who hang around the house.

• By car Mahan is connected to Kerman by a freeway. • Bagh-e-Shahzade a few kilometers out of town, a beautiful example of a mughal garden, excellently • By bus From Kerman, Khajoo squre. maintained, with many cool water features. • By private cars From Kerman, Khajoo squre, or • Shazdeh Garden, one of nine Persian gardens in- Sarasiab square. scribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

191 192 CHAPTER 87. MAHAN

87.4 Do

87.5 Buy

87.6 Eat

87.7 Drink

Like in other cities in Iran, drinking alcohol is illegal but you can buy many types of drinks like Doogh, Fruit juices, Black tea , Soft drinks(both international makes such as Coca-Cola and Pepsi , and their brand names in- cluding 7up, Sprite, Fanta, etc., and local makes such as ZamZam and ...), Ma-o-sha'eir and so on from the markets.

87.8 Sleep

87.9 Connect

87.10 Go next

By bus or savari to Kerman. Chapter 88

Rayen

The front gate of Arg-e Rayen Fortress inside Arg-e Rayen

Rayen is a city in Kerman (province). Rayen is every- thing Bam used to be before the earthquake. Rayen has • Desert landscape climb one of the hills and see how a historic Arg (fortress) built entirely of sun-dried mud ingenious this oasis was built in the desert bricks. Its historic city has countless mudbrick houses, some of them unfortunately decaying, but it is this de- caying charm that makes the city even more attractive. Feel like an explorer. Be welcomed like a king. See a city, whose beauty is overpowering. Meet people, who 88.4 Do enjoy every visitor. See the citadel, but be cautious not to damage the mud brick construction. 88.1 Get in

By bus from Kerman. Savari from Kerman. 88.5 Buy 88.2 Get around Inside the 'arg' is a small workshop where a craftsman manufactures for sale tools and knives made from wood Everything is in walking distance. and steel.

88.3 See 88.6 Eat • The Arg, the beautifully restored historic fortress.

• Old houses around town feel like an explorer find- There are small supermarkets between the main square ing the old mudbrick houses and the 'arg'.

193 194 CHAPTER 88. RAYEN

88.7 Drink

Non alcoholic malt beverages and all other standard drinks are available in the town.

88.8 Sleep

• Rayen Arg Tourist Hotel, turn right at the round- about right when getting into town and a couple of hundred meters further, you will see the ultra- friendly Rayen Arg Tourist Hotel. Prices are nego- tiable.

88.9 Connect

88.10 Go next

Buses only leave in the direction of Kerman, but you can hitchhike to Bam. Shared taxis are available at the main square and will leave when full. Be aware that there is a military/police checkpoint between Rayen and Kerman, there may be 'sniffer dogs’ looking for drugs. Chapter 89

Shahdad

Shahdad is a city in the east of Kerman (province). In a 89.6 Eat close margine of the [lut desert]. 89.7 Drink

89.8 Sleep

Eco-lodges in villages near kalouts. for reserve call (+98)9393926423

89.9 Connect

89.10 Go next A garden in Shahdad By bus or savari to Kerman 89.1 Get in

By bus or by taxi from Kerman

89.2 Get around

Everything is in walking distance.

89.3 See

There are many castles and at Shahdad and around. Examples are the Shafee Abaad castle and The Godeez castle. North of town the Aratta civilization village and dwarf humans are said to have existed since 6,000 BC. Sharain of emam Zadeh Zeyd, south of town, is the most respected religious site of Shahdad.

89.4 Do

89.5 Buy

195 Chapter 90

Tehran Province

translitera- 90.2 Cities ,استان تهران :Tehran Province (persian tion: ostān-e Tehrān) is a province in Central Iran. It covers on area of 18,909 square kilometers and is located • Tehran - the capital of Iran to the north of the central plateau of Iran. This province has common borders with the Mazandaran province from • Behan - a small town outside of Tehran north, from south, from • Damavand east and from west. • Dizin • Karaj • Ray (Iran) - the oldest existing city in Tehran 90.1 Understand province • 90.1.1 Geography • The province of Tehran has over 12 million inhabitants and is Iran’s most densely populated region. Approxi- mately 84.15% reside in urban areas and 15.85% in rural 90.3 See areas of the province. The highest point of the province is Mount Damavand Palaces, Museums , Mosques , shrines , mausoleums and at an elevation of 5,678 m, and the lowest point of the Churches province being the plains of Varamin, 790 m above sea level. • , a UNESCO World Heritage site where the Peacock Throne of the Persian can The largest Lakes of this province are and be found. River. Mountain ranges such as the Alborz span the north; Savad • Kooh and Firooz Kooh are located in the north east; Lavasanat, Qarah Daq, Shemiranat, Hassan Abad and • Sa'dabad Palaces Complex Namak Mountains are in the southern areas; Bibi Shahr Banoo and Alqadr are situated in the south east and the • Glassware and Ceramics Museum of Iran heights of Qasr-e-Firoozeh being located to the east of the province. • The Environmentally speaking, the climate of Tehran province in the southern areas is moderately warm • Tehran’s Underglass painting Museum , but in the mountain vicinity it is cold , and in the higher regions it is even colder with long winters and • fairly large amounts of snow. The hottest months of Palace Complex. the year are from mid-July to mid-September when temperatures range from 28°−30° C and the coldest • The Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art features months experience −10° C around December-January. the works of great artists such as Van Gogh, Pablo Tehran city has Cold winters and hot summers. Average Picasso and Andy Warhol. annual rainfall is approximately 500 mm, the maximum being during the winter season. • Soltani Mosque, built by Fath Ali Shah

196 90.4. DO 197

• Atiq Mosque, built in 1663 90.3.1 Itineraries

• Mo'ezz o-dowleh mosque, built by Fath Ali Shah 90.4 Do

• Haj Seyd Azizollah mosque, built by Fath Ali Shah Parks and Recreation are among the greatest things to do while you are in Tehran Province. Here are a ton of things • Al-javad mosque, Iran’s first modernist design that might amuse you while you are in Tehran Province: mosque. • Forest • The Old , another prominent Qa- jar era mosque. • The Niavaran Public Library • Tochal Skiing resort : is one of the best Ski resorts • The new Sepahsalar mosque (Madreseh e Motahari) around the world.

• Filsuf o-dowleh Mosque, Qajar era The French (Poma) built gondolas that carry tourists and skiers to Tochal mountain.Within 10 minutes of driv- • Moshir ol-Saltaneh Mosque, Qajar era ing distance from Tehran lies a ski resort. Tochal is the world’s 4th highest ski resort at over 3,730 metres (12,240 • Mo'ayyer ol-Mamalik Mosque, Qajar era ft) at its highest 7th station. The resort was completed in 1976 shortly before the overthrow of the Shah. • Shahr Banu Mausoleum Here, one must first ride the eight kilometres (five mile) long gondola lift which covers a huge vertical. The 7th • Javan-mard Qassab Mausoleum, a pre-Islamic semi- station has three slopes. The resort’s longest slope is the mythical hero south side U shaped slope which goes from the 7th station to 5th station. The other two slopes are located on the • Dozens of Imam-zadeh shrines, hundreds of years north side of the 7th station. Here, there are two parallel old, including that of Imam Zadeh Saleh. chair ski lifts that go up to 3,900 metres (12,795 ft) near Tochal’s peak (at 4,000 m/13,125 ft), rising higher than • Ibn Babviyeh cemetery, where many Iranian giants the gondola 7th station. This altitude is higher than any such as Takhti and Ali Akbar Dehkhoda are buried. of the European resorts. From the Tochal peak, one has a spectacular view of the • Zahir o-dowleh cemetery, where many Iranian gi- Alborz range, including the 5,671 metre (18,606 ft) high ants of art and culture such as Iraj Mirza, Mo- Mt. Damavand, a dormant volcano. hammad Taghi Bahar, Forough Farrokhzad, Abol- hasan Saba, Ruhollah Khaleghi, and Darvish-khan At the bottom of the lifts in a valley behind the Tochal are buried. peak is Tochal hotel, located at 3,500 metres (11,483 ft) altitude. From there a T lift takes skiers up the 3,800 metres (12,500 ft) of Shahneshin peak, where the third • Kordan Tomb, Seljuqi era, Karaj. slope of Tochal is.

• Maydanak Tomb, 13th century, Karaj Tochal 7th station has skiing eight months of the year. But there are also some glaciers and year-round snow fields near Tehran where skiing began in 1938, thanks to the • The Polish cemetery north of Tehran, where numer- efforts of two German railway engineers. Today, 12 ski ous WW2 western allied soldiers are buried. resorts operate in Iran, but the most famous are Tochal, Dizin, and Shemshak, all within one to three hours of Churches: Tehran. • Surep Georg Church, 1790 • Darband hiking trail

• Thaddeus Bartoqimus Church, 1808 • Chitgar Park • Mellat Park • Tatavus Church, from the Qajar era • Laleh Park • Enjili Church, 1867 • Jamshidieh Park • Assyrian Church • Niavaran Park 198 CHAPTER 90. TEHRAN PROVINCE

• Sa'ei Park • Shatranj Park • Tangeh Savashi • Darabad hiking trail • hiking trail • Jahan-e Kudak Park • Azadi Sports complex • Enghelab Sports Complex and Golf course • Several caves, springs, and waterfalls outside Tehran. • Latyan Lake • Lavizan Forest Park • Vard-Avard Forest Park • Khajeer National Park

• Kaveer National Park • Tar Lake • Amir Kabir Lake • Lar Protected Natural Habitat • Varjeen Protected Natural Habitat

90.5 Eat

Kebab Shops are scattered all over the province.If you are sick or not into Kebab,there are lots of International Restaurants in the city which range from Persian to Ital- ian.

90.6 Drink

There are a lot of Tea houses in the province , especially the capital. Soft drinks such as Cola, Fanta and Pepsi are also available. The ZamZam Cola is the local Iranian cola. Although, Alcohol is not allowed, it is drank in some underground Parties and weddings.

90.7 Stay safe

90.8 Go next

Qom Province and the Caspian Mazandaran Province are just some of the existing beautiful and more cultural provinces close by. Chapter 91

Yazd (province)

Yazd is a province in Central Iran; the capital is Yazd. 91.12 Stay safe

91.13 Go next 91.1 Regions

91.2 Cities

Yazd is the capital city of the province.

91.3 Other destinations

91.4 Understand

91.4.1 Geography

Yazd Province is situated at an oasis where Dasht-e Kavir and the Dasht-e Lut deserts meet.

91.5 Talk

91.6 Get in

91.7 Get around

91.8 See

91.8.1 Itineraries

91.9 Do

91.10 Eat

91.11 Drink

199 Chapter 92

Yazd

92.1.1 By bus

From the bus station {GPS 31°52'37.5"N, 054°17'04.0"E}, take a local bus (the bus stop is by a little white hut on the highway in front of the main bus station) to the local bus station, then another to the bazaar. This is in the centre of town; from here you can find your hotel.

92.1.2 By plane

There are International flights to Dubai and Damascus A Badgir, a wind cooled water reservoir and daily flights to Tehran.

92.2 Get around

Most sights are in the old town near the Friday Mosque. You can easily walk between them on foot and enjoy the rabbit warren of old passages and buildings as you do so. Get a good map from your hotel.

92.2.1 By foot

Most places in the old town are within easy walking dis- tance from each other. Dowlat Abad garden

Yazd is a city in central Iran and the capital of the . It is an ancient city dating back to the Sassanian 92.2.2 By bus Period (224-651 AD). Local buses are also available.

92.1 Get in 92.2.3 By taxi Yazd is located midway between Isfahan and Kerman, 689 km (427 miles) south east of Tehran. Yazd is well Taxis are inexpensive. Motorcycle taxis are another fast connected to the rest of the country by planes, trains and and cheap way to move around the city but try to settle buses. on a price beforehand.

200 92.3. SEE 201

Masjid-e Jame

A traditional roofed alley, represents the old fabric of the city

Atashkadeh – Zoroastrian fire temple • Takyeh Amir Chakhmagh (Amir Chakhmagh Complex). Originally a mosque, a caravanserai, a , a bathhouse, a cold water well, and a con- fectionery, this imposing structure fronts a square in the old town, opposite the water museum. You can pay a small amount to go inside and climb to the top, giving good local views, including of a nearby bad- gir (water reservoir with wind towers). The square has interesting fountains and is nice at night. (up- dated Jul 2015)

• Cistern of Fatemeh-ye-Golshan. Easily-viewed reservoir with 4 badgirs (wind towers). (updated Jul Amir Chakhmakh Complex 2015) • Amir Chakhmagh Mosque (Old Mosque). 92.3 See Mosque next to the Amir Chakhmagh Complex. (updated Jul 2015) • Masjid-e Jame (Friday Mosque), Masjid-e Jame • Market Square Clock, Imam St. (updated Jul street, which runs off Imam St. Dating back to the 2015) fourteenth century, it is well worth a visit. It is an example of finest Persian and excellent ar- • Atashkadeh (Zoroastrian Fire Temple), Kashani chitecture. Its minarets are the highest in the coun- Road (a few kilometres from the old town; a taxi try. Admire it at night when it is lit up. (updated Jul might be best). The fire on the inside has supposedly 2015) been burning since AD 470. Free but donations ap- preciated. (updated Jul 2015) • Yazd Water Museum, Imam St corner. House converted to a museum with a lot of information • Dakhmeh (Zoroastrian Towers of Silence). Huge about the Canat water distribution system. Contains circular walls on top of hills, where the dead were nice cool underground rooms. Free. (updated Jul left to be picked clean by vultures. A quiet, serene 2015) place. (updated Jul 2015) 202 CHAPTER 92. YAZD

• Alexander’s Prison. Neither built by Alexander houses have been recently converted into atmospheric ho- the Great nor a prison, but a 15th-century domed tels. Some are good and others not so much. Many of school which is quite an interesting sight with a cafe them offer clean comfortable rooms encircling peaceful in the 'prison room'. Guides say the deep well in the central courtyards where you can eat, drink tea or puff middle of its courtyard was built by Alexander the away on a ghalyan while gazing at the sky. Great and was used as a dungeon although this is not confirmed. Also called Ziaiyyeh school. (updated Jul 2015) 92.8.1 Budget • Dowlat Abad Gardens. With a building with a beautiful large badgir. One of nine Persian gardens • Orient Hotel (6th Alley at Jame Mosque St.), ☎ inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. +98-351-626 7783. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: (updated Jul 2015) 12:00. From the owners of Silk Road Hotel, which is on the other side of the street. The price of the rooms are all same as the Silk Road Hotel. It is es- 92.4 Do pecially tailored to the needs of families and group travelers. Has a glass deck on the second floor with nice panoramas of the city, and the beautiful Jame' • Walk around in the historic neighbourhoods and re- Mosque, and a background of desert and mountains. lax in the parks. You can also hike up in the beautiful To book your room at the Orient hotel, it is best to mountains of Yazd and enjoy a spectacular view of call or email the Silk Road Hotel. Good hotel, nice the city. If you are the more social type, relax in the central courtyard. Showers have good pressure and cafes and chat with local Iranians. Most likely, they water is hot. You can eat lunch and dinner here. will be very interested in talking with you. Dorm bed: $5; Single: $15; Double: $20; Triple: $25. 92.5 Buy • Silk Road Hotel, No 5, Tal-e Khakestary Al- ley, Masjed Jame St (Conveniently hidden in Yazd is famous in Iran for its various handicrafts, such as an alley near the Jameh Mosque; look for the carpet, silk fabrics and cashmere. A good place for these signs pointing the way on the wall.), ☎ +98- is bazaar, where also can be found snacks such as nougat 351-625 2730, fax: +98-351-6217703, e-mail: and cashews. [email protected]. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. This is undoubtedly the most popular and affordable of the backpacker hotels in 92.6 Eat Yazd. They off private rooms with ensuite bath- rooms as well as a comfortable dorm. An excel- For a friendlier and more cultural atmosphere try Persian lent buffet breakfast and free wireless internet is in- restaurants. Many restaurants serve the standard Iranian cluded in the price. They also serve traditional food kebabas. There are a few international restaurants in Yazd in the lovely courtyard restaurant. They also offer a which serve Italian, Indian, Arabian and Mexican food. number of interesting tours in and around Yazd - in- cluding overnight trips to the desert oasis Kharanaq, The traditional restaurant and tea house of Kohan Hotel where they run another guesthouse.. Dorm bed: $7; serves various Iranian traditional dishes such as fessenjun, Single: $20; Double: $30; Triple: $40. gheime as well as some European and Indian dishes. It has a nice atmosphere and is located near the Alexander Prison. • Kohan Hotel (100 metres from Alexander’s Prison), ☎ +98-351 6212485, fax: 621 0393. Is a little pricer and difficult to find, but also worth the ef- 92.7 Drink fort. They also have a beautiful courtyard restaurant, a underground qanat room (water management sys- tem) to explore, and good views of the old city can For typical drinks available in Iran, see Iran#Drink be had from the roof. The hotel is family run, and also there is a tourist information office, a young man,who speaks wonderfully perfect German, En- 92.8 Sleep glish and a little Spanish, he can provide informa- tion about Yazd and other cities of Iran, time table It is best to stay in the old town near the Friday Mosque, of buses, air planes and trains. Various tours of Yazd from which you can walk to most sights. There are many are offered including camel rides, overnight stays in descent hotels to choose from. A number of traditional desert & bike riding in desert. From $28. 92.9. GO NEXT 203

• Kourosh Hotel (100 meters from Alexan- flats, the golden dunes as well as the striking mounds der prison), ☎ +9835-36203560-70, e-mail: in bright green, yellow and red create a marvellous [email protected]. Traditional archi- spectrum. tecture and modern amenities, in the middle of the city. Breakfast and Wi-Fi free. (updated Dec 2015) • Yet another world heritage-listed Persian Garden, the Pahlevanpour Garden is about 40km to the 92.8.2 Mid-range south.

• Hotel Dad, #214, 10th Farvardin Ave, ☎ +98- 351-6229400, fax: +98 351 6229449, e-mail: [email protected]. Hotel Dad is an 80-year old hotel in the old center of town, with a traditional style, and 54 rooms. Swimming pool with poolside service and a sauna and jacuzzi. It has both a tra- ditional Iranian and international restaurants, along with a coffee shop. Single: $70; Double: $110; Triple: $165.

92.8.3 Outside of Yadz

• Farvardinn Desert Inn, 30km south east of Yazd en-rout to Bafq, Fahraj-Yazd (There are local buses to Fahraj every hour on the hour from the local bus station. A taxi costs US$5. The hotel is about 100m to the left of the main street.)Across the old Fortress of Fahraj village), ☎ +98 9133524723, fax: +98 351 6229449. Check-in: flexible, check-out: flexible. This is a new guesthouse/hostel close to Yazd, that is right on the Dasht-e-Lud desert. The owner, Masoud, speaks excellent English and a little French, is very nice and very knowledgeable about the area. This hotel offers comfortable beds, a full buffet breakfast, new bathrooms, WiFi, kitchen fa- cilities, dinner with a local family, and camel-riding courses. This hotel is great for both backpackers and traditional travellers looking for a trekking base or an authentic place to relax. There is a bus and train booking service for minimal commission. Tours: From 1-12 days - day tours to surrounding villages from an experienced guide, camel-riding courses, nomad tours from Yazd to Shiraz, one day hikes to Mt. Shirkuh (up to 4100m), or a tour of your choos- ing can be arranged. Camping: $4; Dorm bed: $7; Double: $25.

92.9 Go next

• Meymand — population 60 in summer, 130 in win- ter, continuously occupied for more than 3,000 years

• If you feel like visiting a place more cultural and beautiful, the ancient city of Isfahan is near Yazd.

• . The magnificent Iranian deserts is ideal for those who are interested in ad- venturous journey or trekking. The white vast salt Chapter 93

Hormozgān

The Gulf Region of Iran lies along the country’s Persian 93.10 Eat Gulf coast. 93.11 Drink 93.1 Regions 93.12 Stay safe The Gulf Region is comprised of the Bushehr and Hor- mozgan Provinces. 93.13 Go next

93.2 Cities

• Bandar-e-Abbas

• Bushehr

93.3 Other destinations

• Kish Island — visa-free and duty-free touristy island

• Qeshm — mountanious island, another duty-free zone

93.4 Understand

93.5 Talk

93.6 Get in

93.7 Get around

93.8 See

93.8.1 Itineraries

93.9 Do

204 Chapter 94

Bushehr

94.2 Get in

94.2.1 By plane

There are international flights to Kuwait and Dubai and domestic flights to Tehran, Isfahan and Mashad.

94.2.2 By train

• A railroad has just been started from Shiraz. It will be finished in a few years.

Bushehr 94.2.3 By car

• There is a good highway to Shiraz.

94.2.4 By bus

There are buses to Shiraz, Bandar Abbas, Ahvaz, Tehran and other major cities of Iran.

94.2.5 By boat

Apart from enterprising fishermen, there are no domes- tic boat services from Bushehr. However, the Valfajre- 8 shipping company operates (in theory, though not al- ways in practice) to Qatar (one way US$50, Mondays), Bahrain (US$45, seven to eight hours, Mondays) and Bushehr Barry Kent Kuwait (US$70, seven to eight hours, Wednesdays).

Bushehr is a city in the Gulf Region of Iran. 94.3 Get around

Getting around this place is a little bit fun. It’s fun because 94.1 Understand most of the times you will enjoy Bushehr by foot.

Bushehr was the main trade center of Iran in the past cen- 94.4 See turies. The city structures are traditional in style, modest in proportion and cost. Due to its lack of rail connection • The Old city to the interior of the country and its shallow anchorage, it has lost its position as the primary port of Iran. • Ruins of British Consulate

205 206 CHAPTER 94. BUSHEHR

94.5 Do

• Do speed boat riding, You can find speedboats anywhere along the coast and a 10 minutes ride will cost 30,000 Rials.

94.6 Learn

• Persian Gulf University

• Bushehr University of Medical Sciences • Islamic Azad University of Bushehr

• Iran Nuclear Energy College

94.7 Buy

94.8 Eat

94.8.1 Budget

94.8.2 Mid-range

• Ghavam Restaurant, Khalije Fars Street.

94.8.3 Splurge

94.9 Drink

94.10 Sleep

94.10.1 Budget

• Hotel Sadi, Nader Street, ☎ +98 771 2522605. This is the best budget option with clean rooms and personal bathrooms.

94.10.2 Mid-range hotel delvar , this hotel is the best in bushehr

94.10.3 Splurge

94.11 Connect

94.12 Go next Chapter 95

Kish Island

Kish Island is a beautiful island and tourist resort lo- most popular airline with the most regular domestic and cated on the north east of the Persian Gulf (Khalij-e Fars) international flights in Kish is "Kish Air". Kish Air has about 17 km (10.2 miles) from the southern offshore of international flights to Abu Dhabi and Dubai. Kish Air the mainland Iran. Kish is a free trade zone. also offers domestic flights to Iran’s main cities, including Tehran, Isfahan, Shiraz and Mashhad.

95.1 Understand • Kish Airport: 4422100, 4422460

Kish Island, often called the Pearl of the Persian Gulf has an area of 90 square km (36 sq. miles). It is known for • Kish Air: 4423517, 4422030 being a beautiful resort in the Middle East and the Persian Gulf, a unique coral island. Kish Island has relaxed laws • Airport Passport Office: 422640 in comparison to the rest of Iran. Like mainland Iran, the people of Kish are generally friendly and hospitable. Women who do not have appropriate Muslim dress (head • Kish Tourist Affairs Office: +98 764 4424423 scarves, long smocks or dresses) will be provided with those free of charge upon arrival prior to passing through customs and immigration. These are loaned free of 95.2 Get in charge, and should be returned upon leaving.

No entry visa is required for Kish. Foreign nationals need no entry visa at the authorized arrival and departure 95.2.2 By car points in Kish Island. At Kish International Airport, the officials will take your photograph and fingerprints, and Driving by car is an easy and smart option. Currently, stamp your passport, allowing you to stay up to 14 days there is only one route to Kish Island. If you are driving on the Island. Beware: if you are western, you may be from Tehran, take care on the road and be alert of the sternly questioned as to the purpose of your visit. Make highways and the pedestrians. sure you bring all verification paperwork including hotel reservations with phone numbers, etc. Upon arrival at Kish Airport, all female passengers will be 95.2.3 By bus immediately escorted to a room and very politely ordered to wear headscarves and long robes to cover their entire There are private buses that will take you from Tehran body. The clothing is available at the Airport, and pas- and other main cities to Kish Island. This is probably the sengers are expected to return them when leaving Kish. safest way of travelling in Iran. Private buses in Iran are Female visitors may be detained for a period of time un- inexpensive compared to other countries in the Middle der the perception that they 'might have difficulty finding East. their way around the island'. However, the staff in general are very polite, but speak little English. 95.2.4 By boat 95.2.1 By plane There are boats that will take you from the port cities of At present, there are a number of international airlines Bandar-e Abbas, Bushehr and Chahbahar. As of June flying to Kish International Airport (IATA: KIH). The 2009 this has reportedly been suspended.

207 208 CHAPTER 95. KISH ISLAND

95.3 Get around • Giant Bird Sculpture: you can climb up inside of it. If you are energetic, walking is your best option. How- ever, like the rest of Iran, there are plenty of taxis - but • Underground Town of Cariz: Is more than 2,500 without meters. It is advisable to agree the fare in ad- years old, and has been converted into an under- vance, and to make sure that the driver understands where ground town 16 metres below the surface, and with you want to go. The majority of taxis on the island are an area of more than 10,000 square miles. The en- Toyota Camrys and are fully air-conditioned. The normal trance fee is $5 USD. fares are usually $2 USD to $5 USD depending upon the distance, which is never too long as the island is rather • The Ancient Town of : The ruins display small. mortar masses and stone - made buildings in an area Be careful to check your change as some taxi drivers will of some 3 by 1 kilometre long. The structures were take advantage of tourists and attempt to short-change. built of sandstone, with some plaster on the walls. Harireh Taxi Service +98 764 - 4451700 Some were originally a number of storeys in height. Harireh town is estimated to be 800 years old, and is Paeeze Taxi Service +98 764 - 4451670 thought to have been destroyed by a powerful earth- Toosan Taxi Service +98 764 - 4422400 quake. Entry is free. Dalahoo Taxi Service +98 764 - 4451577 • Marjon Beach Park:Entry is free for all.

95.4 See 95.5 Do 95.4.1 Popular tourist attractions 95.5.1 The beaches

Snorkeling on the beaches of Kish Island is said to be amongst the best in the world, while the scuba-diving of- fers an even more spectacular insight of life beneath the waters. A variety of other water sports are also avail- able: jet-skiing, sailing, fishing, parasailing, reef walk- ing, coral viewing, boating and water-skiing are some of the popular ways to enjoy yourself when visiting the Is- land. A variety of other water sports are also available. The Kish coastline is one of the least dangerous coasts in the world. Kish has gorgeous white sandy beaches for relaxing walks. Women-only beaches are available for the female tourists to the Island. Women do not have access to most beaches, A view of a at sunset or to the prime snorkeling areas. There used to be an “in- ternational beach” where male and female foreign tourists could swim together, but it has been closed by the govern- • Kish Dolphin & Crocodile Park: The Dolphin ment. Park an ocean atrium, and offers dolphin and other sea mammal shows. The entrance fee is $46 USD. Contrary to the above information regarding the Greek Ship, there is no restaurant on board what remains of the historic ship. Still, this is a beautiful island - and you could • The Green Tree Park: The Park with the oldest bring food with you and enjoy the site while sitting at a trees on the island. Entry is free for all. shaded table nearby. • Mysteries of the World Zoo: A small zoo with ex- otic animals on display. The entrance fee is $5 USD. 95.6 Buy • Greek Ship: The historic and famous old ship rest- ing on one of the shores of Kish Island. It has be- Kish is a trade free zone, making it a good place for shop- come a major tourist attraction in recent years. En- ping and trading. The price of goods in Kish are no- try is free. It is a beautiful scenic area, and you can tably cheaper than in mainland Iran. Many Iranians and bring food for a picnic and sit in a shaded area. tourists visit Kish to purchase duty free clothes, electronic 95.9. DRINK 209 goods, cosmetics, etc. There are a number of large shop- • Papa Restaurant, ☎ 764 4430130. ping centres, most of them situated in the eastern part of the island. Due to the daytime heat, most shops are closed • Hadee’s. Pizzeria. from 13.00 until around 17.30. Some stay open until late into the night. The shopping malls in Kish cater to every • Kish KFC. Kish Fried Chicken. taste. However, be prepared to find numerous fake Amer- ican and European brands such as Gucci, Prada, Diesel, The Gap, Ikea and Starbucks. Very little of the merchan- 95.8.2 Mid-range dise is authentic. One exception is the 'Ikea' store, which imports genuine Ikea merchandise such as ice-cube trays • Asal Kish Restaurant, ☎ 764 4424420. and dishes. • Pars Khalij Buffet, ☎ 764 4430356. 95.6.1 Malls Nahange Sefid - a variety of Iranian food (live music). • Paradise 1 International Mall • Paradise 2 International Mall 95.8.3 Splurge • The Paniz International Mall • Shandiz Safdari. Shishlik (lamb chop grilled) ac- • Zaytoon International Mall companied by Iranian Rice and Laban (Yoghurt) drink. expensive. • Morvarid International Mall

• Venus International Mall • Kooh-e-Noor. The 5* restaurant of Sadaf Inter- national Hotel. The restaurant has a “cave” theme. • Marjon International Mall 'Kooh-e-Noor' is translated as “the mountain of light”, and is also the name of one of the world’s • Arab Bazaar largest diamonds. • Kish Trade Centre • Pavion Restaurant, ☎ 764 4422614.

• 95.7 Work Nagshe Jahan Restaurant, ☎ 764 4420390. • Paayaab Restaurant, olympic boulevard olympic It is not difficult to find work on the Island. If you are square, ☎ 764 4423638. sociable and hospitable, working in cafes and restaurants are the best way to go. If you are looking for work in the commercial and tourist sector, you must have at least some experience and knowledge of the Iranian economy 95.9 Drink and of Kish Island. Most people on Kish Island work from 09:00 to 17:00, in- Like mainland Iran, alcoholic beverages are not served cluding the government employees. On Thursdays, gov- on the Island. The tea is light, good in taste and is kept at ernment employees work from 09:00 to 13:00. every home, shop and other social places. 'Cafe Aquarium' (ground floor of Pardis II Shopping Mall.) This popular hangout serves “Starbucks” coffee, 95.8 Eat Italian style sandwiches, banana splits, and fresh fruit juice to a young, hip crowd. Kish Island offers a wide selection of restaurants which range from Persian to International . Some of the most well-known restaurants include: 95.10 Sleep

95.8.1 Budget Accommodation in Kish is slightly more expensive than mainland Iran, however it is not extortionate. Kish Is- • Boof Fast Food Restaurant, Pardis II Mall, ☎ 764 land has a range of nice villas, hotels and guest houses 4420554. Kish’s answer to McDonald’s... for tourists. Hotel reservations must be made through a travel agency in Tehran, which may be difficult if you are • Espadana Restaurant, ☎ 764 44220689. not Iranian and/or do not speak Persian. 210 CHAPTER 95. KISH ISLAND

95.10.1 Budget 95.11.2 Internet

• Alighapou Hotel - +98 764 5-23203 44 0764 There are various internet cafés on Kish Island. Internet speed varies from café to café. A popular internet café • Fanoos Hotel - +98 764 443200-5 is The Kish Cyber Cafe at Shayan Hotel, Tel: 4422771- 5 (2623), [email protected], One hour is around • Ghasedak Hotel mainly catering for Chinese ex- $2.50 US. pats. It is fairly basic but has friendly staff and is located in walking distance to the jetty and some malls. 95.12 Stay safe

95.10.2 Mid-range • Emergency services: 110 • Kish Hospital: 4422811 or 4422211 • Eram Grand Hotel. A 2-star hotel with occasional fires and difficulty in coordinating reservations with available rooms. 95.13 Go next • Tatilat Hotel - +98 764 4443996-8 If you feel like going to another beautiful island, Qeshm • Maryam Hotel' - +98 764 44 21111-7 - Was orig- is also close by. It is not as tourist-friendly as Kish and inally a luxury hotel, but it is gradually becoming is mostly visited by those interested in trade. You have more run-down. The lobby is still quite impressive, the options of travelling by boat or plane. Consider the however, and the rooms are nice. Customer service city of Bushehr for somewhere cultural and beautiful in is a lost art. mainland Iran. • Sunrise International Hotel - A nice and clean place. Each suite comprises of a double bedroom, a living room with sofas and a television, a small kitch- enette with a fridge, and two modern bathrooms. The cost of a taxi from the airport is around $2.50 US. The hotel also has a cosy restaurant and coffee shop.

95.10.3 Splurge

• Dariush Grand Hotel - +98 764 44 49 00

• Sadaf International Hotel - +98 764 4420590-7

• Shayan Hotel

• Parmis hotel-+98 7644446223-30

• Flamingo Hotel one of the more recent hotels in Kish

• The Flower of the East - coming soon.

95.11 Connect

95.11.1 Phone

• Area Code for Iran: 0098 (+98)

• Area Code for Kish: 0764

• Kish Cellular Phone (Code): 0934 Chapter 96

Qeshm

Qeshm is the largest island in the Persian Gulf, with 96.3 See rocky coastlines that protects a mountainous and often beautiful interior. The coast is dotted with small villages and towns. Qeshm Island is free duty zone.

96.1 Get in

The simplest way is to get on a speedboat at Bandar Ab- bas main harbour. There are lots of them departing each few minutes. The ride takes between 20 to 40 minutes depending on the boat. The rates were about $2-3 in Jan- uary 2008. A car ferry leaves regularly from Bander-e- Pol, about 60km west of Bandar Abbas. Total cost of return ticket for one car and two persons is 180,000 IRR (rates of November 2011). It is allowed to go on the is- Chahkouh Valley at Qeshm Island land with a foreign vehicle (they will want to see your Carnet de Passage).

There are flights from major cities to Qeshm Island by • Hara Marine Forests. According to environmen- . talists, about 1.5% of the world birds and 25% of There is a daily flight from Dubai costs about $40. Iran’s native birds annually migrate to Hara forests, which is a national park. • Portuguese Castle. 96.2 Get around • Star Valleys. • Laft Historical Port. Qeshm Island is very long (approximately 150 km from • east to west), and its main attractions are far away Chahkouh Valley. from each other, and therefore taxis are strongly recom- mended. 96.4 Do The cheapest and safest way to get a taxi is through a hotel, although hailing them of the streets is easy. Bargaining is recommended but some drivers will give Meet friendly people and listen to the traditional music. quote the exact rate (be wise and distinguish between these two kinds of behaviour). Hotel staff may advise • Chahkouh Valley. in advance on the legitimate rates to destinations. In emergencies wave to any vehicle to attract a lift (but remember, don't show a “thumb up” sign as it is con- 96.5 Buy sidered an obscene gesture, and be prepared to pay the driver. The minimum fare is between IRR10,000 and Qeshm is a duty free zone, meaning it is possible to buy IRR25,000. things here free of duty. Here there are many bazaars in

211 212 CHAPTER 96. QESHM

Qeshm and the near town of where shirts cost around $US2 and trousers for $US5.

96.6 Eat

• Iranian cuisine — in the city centre or the main town named Dergahaan has a wide array of conven- tional eatery-stalls and restaurants. those eateries serve almost all Iranian cuisine with some speciality dishes of Qeshm. The most common item is the Ira- nian variant of the shewerma, or Arabic meat sand- wich. Kebabs and other Iranian dishes are available.

96.7 Drink

96.8 Sleep

• Qeshm International Hotel, Bahman Blvd.,

• Tolla International Hotel. 10 kms away from the city centre and approximately an hour from the Qeshm International Airport, which makes this ho- tel very calm and a little secluded. The hotel is com- parably cheap and has an extensive courtyard area for walking or jogging. Tree-lined walkways and the long benches installed on the sides are best for the evening stroll and rest. It also has a couple of restau- rants serves a nominal but satisfactory Iranian cui- sine, and most widely Indian and continental cuisine, a couple of coffee shops, a videoke (Video Karaoke Bar) and an internet cafe (bandwidth speed is slow). 100,000 IRR for single men and women (for beds located in what range from 2-person rooms to 10- person villas—; 300,000 IRR for an entire villa.. • Assads Bed & Breakfeast, Bandar'e Dulab (north- west part of Qeshm Island) (ask in Dulab for B&B or call him), ☎ 00989362477331, e-mail: [email protected]. charming b&b in Dulab, a calm village of the sea coast of Qeshm Island. The place is really well situated just 5 minutes form the sea. From this B&B, numerous possibilities to dis- cover the countryside. Assad can arrange tours to saltcave’s, canyons and dessert by car or offroad by motorbike. 10$/person incl. food=drink. (updated Apr 2015)

96.9 Go next

Kish Island is a good place to visit from Qeshm. Chapter 97

Hormozgān

The Gulf Region of Iran lies along the country’s Persian 97.10 Eat Gulf coast. 97.11 Drink 97.1 Regions 97.12 Stay safe The Gulf Region is comprised of the Bushehr and Hor- mozgan Provinces. 97.13 Go next

97.2 Cities

• Bandar-e-Abbas

• Bushehr

97.3 Other destinations

• Kish Island — visa-free and duty-free touristy island

• Qeshm — mountanious island, another duty-free zone

97.4 Understand

97.5 Talk

97.6 Get in

97.7 Get around

97.8 See

97.8.1 Itineraries

97.9 Do

213 214 CHAPTER 97. HORMOZGĀN

97.14 Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses

97.14.1 Text

• Iran Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Iran?oldid=2958795 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Sert- mann, Jpatokal, Syced, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, Pbsouthwood, Dguillaume, Sumone10154, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, Ypsilon, AHeneen, Vidimian, Inas, JamesA, Pashley, Globe-trotter, Yann, Jonboy, Ravikiran r, Cacahuate, Xltel, Saqib, Nurg, Romaine, RegentsPark, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Cupcakecommander, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Maj, (WT- en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Bill Ellett, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Nzpcmad, (WT-en) Wind- Horse, (WT-en) PierreAbbat, (WT-en) Fastestdogever, (WT-en) InterLangBot, (WT-en) Nrms, (WT-en) Abi, (WT-en) Mnd, (WT-en) Jake73, (WT-en) The Yeti, (WT-en) Rmx, (WT-en) Karen Johnson, (WT-en) Nils, (WT-en) Stephen Atkins, (WT-en) Willy...on teh wheels!, (WT-en) MMKK, (WT-en) Allyak, (WT-en) Janki, (WT-en) Kawkabalsharq, (WT-en) KruMalee, (WT-en) Omid Hatami, (WT-en) Pinkfluffybrick, (WT-en) CIAWorldFactbook2002, (WT-en) Jonathan 784, (WT-en) Sleepyhead, (WT-en) Hippietrail, (WT- en) MiddleEastern, (WT-en) Norvak, (WT-en) Robert-Antonio, (WT-en) Steffen M., (WT-en) Ali1986, (WT-en) Amirhassanm, (WT- en) Andy2000, (WT-en) Puff the Magic Dragon, (WT-en) Improv, (WT-en) 386-DX, (WT-en) W., (WT-en) Overandaway, (WT-en) Emes, (WT-en) Hessam, (WT-en) Keri d, (WT-en) Kaveh, (WT-en) Markhoney, (WT-en) TransUtopian, (WT-en) Dark Paladin X, (WT-en) Test, (WT-en) ManOnABus, (WT-en) M.r.m2187, (WT-en) Kombizz, (WT-en) NAINTOURS, (WT-en) Shervinafshar, (WT- en) Babakgh, (WT-en) Puccini, (WT-en) Campdavid, (WT-en) Saffo, (WT-en) Johnny, (WT-en) Cancerward, (WT-en) Silwi, (WT-en) Babak, (WT-en) Roshandel, (WT-en) Jahan, (WT-en) Hamed14788, (WT-en) Odarijani, (WT-en) Masoud Karimi, (WT-en) Alireza- yami, (WT-en) CanuckViking, (WT-en) Rayani, (WT-en) Hsarafraz, (WT-en) Gypscholar, (WT-en) Tektronic, (WT-en) A hashemi, (WT-en) Xct, (WT-en) Dimo, (WT-en) Propars55, (WT-en) Jahangard79, (WT-en) Mahbod, (WT-en) Danieldemol, Aude, This, that and the other, The dog2, Ikan Kekek, Jonte--, Felix505, Graham87, Alkamid, Aetherlur, ZxxZxxZ, LilHelpa, Cyfraw, JuliasTravels, Arjanizary, Andrewssi2, Keithonearth, Orijentolog, EvanProdromou, 4nn1l2, MarkJaroski, Bill-on-the-Hill, Sapphire, Texugo, Chub- ,Stajler, Zsombor~enwikivoyage, Jjtkk, Sonia Sevilla, Inasbot ,ויקיג'אנקי ,byWimbus, Sms1371, Greenstruck, Sarbalavand, Druzhnik Traveler100bot, Danapit, Lexusuns, SteveRBot, Zollerriia, Elliot Teong, Massreg, Wrh2Bot, Thatoo, Vacationer, Ziraksima, Matroc, Ad- ,Polkash, Hamidrezahalvaei1371, Mohamadrafiei ,شاملو ,dbot, Lbt, EBB, Maadikhah, Dukenemesis, AminC99, Outlookjim, Sadidafarin Meysam, Naintours, Hobbitschuster, Xpluto, Rubbish computer, Shadowwiki1, Hamedprophet, Msg128, Hrbackpacker, Duodidio, NetB- SDuser, Tshorba, BushelCandle, Mahsa Aslani and Anonymous: 569 • Babolsar Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Babolsar?oldid=2631565 Contributors: LtPowers, (WT-en) Payam, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Bill-on-the-Hill, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 3 • Bajgiran Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bajgiran?oldid=2948668 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, (WT-en) Lee Woo-jin, The Anomebot2, Texugo, ChubbyWimbus, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Smokestack Basilisk • Bojnourd Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bojnourd?oldid=2638444 Contributors: LtPowers, K7L, (WT-en) Khajida91, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1 • Dizin Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Dizin?oldid=2835473 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Atsirlin, LtPowers, Shaundd, Ste- fan2bot, (WT-en) Sleepyhead, (WT-en) Emes, Ikan Kekek, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, YiFeiBot and Anonymous: 4 • Hamadan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Hamadan?oldid=2885364 Contributors: Ypsilon, LtPowers, (WT-en) Khajida91, Mey2008, Billinghurst, Ikan Kekek, Rschen7754, ZxxZxxZ, Sumone’s bot, Alieseraj, CarsracBot, Texugo, Farahpour, Bludream, Inas- bot, Traveler100bot, In fact, Addbot, Maadikhah, YiFeiBot and Anonymous: 2 • Masjed Solayman Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Masjed_Solayman?oldid=2864755 Contributors: LtPowers, K7L, (WT-en) Khajida91, Texugo, Traveler100bot, DaGizza and Anonymous: 1 • Qom Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Qom?oldid=2928258 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Jonboy, Xltel, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Khajida91, (WT-en) The Yeti, (WT-en) Joelf, (WT-en) Omid Hatami, (WT-en) Andy2000, (WT-en) Ilikecats, (WT-en) Se Globetrotter, (WT-en) Arif Ali Zaidi, Gire 3pich2005, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, EvanProdromou, CarsracBot, Sapphire, Texugo, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Danapit, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, YiFeiBot and Anonymous: 35 • Sistan and Baluchestan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Sistan_and_Baluchestan?oldid=2915651 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Pashley, Saqib, Texugo, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 6 • Baluchistan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Sistan_and_Baluchestan?oldid=2915651 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, Ypsilon, Lt- Powers, Vidimian, Pashley, Saqib, Texugo, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 6 • Caspian Iran Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Caspian_Iran?oldid=2949278 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, Dguillaume, Yp- silon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Globe-trotter, Xltel, (WT-en) Smm alone, (WT-en) Caspian, (WT-en) Forough, (WT-en) Forough.va, Ikan Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 10 ,فلورانس ,Kekek, ZxxZxxZ, Traveler100, Texugo • Aqqala Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Aqqala?oldid=2903903 Contributors: Andrewssi2, Traveler100, Matroc and Anonymous: 1 • Babol Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Babol?oldid=2837658 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, (WT-en) Khajida91, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, Texugo, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 4 • Bandar Torkaman Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bandar_Torkaman?oldid=2489046 Contributors: LtPowers, Globe-trotter, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Matroc, -sche, Smokestack Basilisk and Anonymous: 1 • Behshahr Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Behshahr?oldid=2638104 Contributors: LtPowers, Inas, Pashley, (WT-en) Khajida91, The Anome, Traveler100, Texugo, Inasbot and Traveler100bot • Fouman Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Fouman?oldid=2727005 Contributors: Wrh2, Ikan Kekek and Traveler100 • Ghaemshahr Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ghaemshahr?oldid=2953456 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Xltel, (WT-en) Jnich99, (WT-en) Nrms, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, DaGizza, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 1 • Gorgan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Gorgan?oldid=2402751 Contributors: LtPowers, K7L, (WT-en) Khajida91, ZxxZxxZ, Texugo, Inasbot and Traveler100bot 97.14. 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• Masouleh Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Masouleh?oldid=2471958 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, (WT-en) Od, (WT- en) Sleepyhead, Traveler100, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Wrh2Bot • Ramsar Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ramsar?oldid=2873628 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Sertmann, Syced, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Khajida91, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Navid22 and Anony- mous: 4 • Rasht Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Rasht?oldid=2884711 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Pashley, Jonboy, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Nzpcmad, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) Khajida91, (WT-en) Allyak, (WT-en) Sleepyhead, (WT-en) Paul Richter, (WT-en) Andy2000, (WT-en) Sammy Wilkes, (WT-en) Jensth, (WT-en) Mehrab, The Anomebot2, MarkJaroski, Traveler100bot, Maadikhah and Anonymous: 15 • Sari Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Sari?oldid=2884671 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Xltel, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) Khajida91, (WT-en) Fastestdogever, (WT-en) Metaur, (WT-en) Ali1986, (WT-en) Andy2000, (WT-en) Hadifn, ZxxZxxZ, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Traveler100, AmaryllisGardener, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Matroc, and Anonymous: 3 شاملو ,Maadikhah • Iranian Azerbaijan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Iranian_Azerbaijan?oldid=2954797 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, W. Frank, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Pashley, Globe-trotter, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) FreedomOnMove, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, Traveler100bot, Danapit, SteveRBot, Nastoshka, Jverkoey, Yamangul, Turkspasha ,طاها ,F4fluids, ZxxZxxZ, Arjanizary, Traveler100, Calak and Anonymous: 9 • Ardabil Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ardabil?oldid=2716985 Contributors: Ypsilon, LtPowers, Inas, Pashley, Saqib, (WT-en) Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Nameer widad, Missvain and Anonymous: 2 ,فلورانس ,Khajida91, Traveler100, Texugo • Kandovan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kandovan?oldid=2919977 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Khajida91, شاملو WT-en) FreedomOnMove, Eco84, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and) • Maku Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Maku?oldid=2647640 Contributors: LtPowers, K7L, (WT-en) Khajida91, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Kiaora and Anonymous: 1 • Maragheh Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Maragheh?oldid=2843021 Contributors: Ikan Kekek, F4fluids, Texugo, Samak and Anonymous: 1 • Sardroud Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Sardroud?oldid=2741422 Contributors: Ikan Kekek, Traveler100 and Ziraksima • Tabriz Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Tabriz?oldid=2955985 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Sertmann, Atsirlin, Jc8136, Ypsilon, LtPowers, AlasdairW, Vidimian, Inas, Pashley, Jonboy, Saqib, Epolk, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Travelbird, (WT-en) Omid Hatami, (WT-en) Bertilvidet, (WT-en) Mohammad Pourmirab Azari, (WT-en) Mehranm2, (WT- en) Mehrdad Alinejad, (WT-en) Muhammad g, (WT-en) Hooman, (WT-en) Pournick, (WT-en) Fatehimo, (WT-en) Bakhish2010, Ikan Kekek, F4fluids, The Anome, Eminn, LilHelpa, Texugo, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Bokaal, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Ziraksima, Matroc, Addbot, M karzarj, Maadikhah, Kiaora, YiFeiBot and Anonymous: 58 • Takab Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Takab?oldid=2487675 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Saqib, (WT-en) Khajida91, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Wrh2Bot • Urmia Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Urmia?oldid=2698690 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) Khajida91, (WT-en) Andy2000, Ikan Kekek, F4fluids, The Anomebot2, Sapphire, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, and Anonymous: 9 شاملو ,Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot • Zanjan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Zanjan?oldid=2716966 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Peterfitzgerald, Dguillaume, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Saqib, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Khajida91, (WT-en) Omid Hatami, (WT-en) Malakamiri, Ikan Kekek, JuliasTravels, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 7 • Khorasan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Khorasan?oldid=2717021 Contributors: Sertmann, Dguillaume, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Nzpcmad, (WT-en) Elahe, Mey2008, The Anomebot2, EvanProdromou, Texugo, Persian Aviator, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 9 • Esfarayen Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Esfarayen?oldid=2762664 Contributors: Ikan Kekek, Riley Huntley, Traveler100, Javadh, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 3 • Mashhad Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Mashhad?oldid=2957276 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Atsirlin, LtPowers, Vidimian, Ravikiran r, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Khajida91, (WT-en) SHC, (WT-en) Joelf, (WT-en) Worldtraveler, (WT-en) Allyak, (WT-en) Janki, (WT-en) Omid Hatami, (WT-en) Ilikecats, (WT-en) Lee Woo-jin, (WT-en) Arif Ali Zaidi, (WT-en) Addtok, (WT-en) Mohi, (WT-en) Amidelune, (WT-en) Ahnxahn, (WT-en) Aroundeworld11, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Traveler100, EvanProdromou, CarsracBot, Texugo, ChubbyWimbus, WOSlinker, Jjtkk, Tommaso Abele, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Ad- dbot, Maadikhah, YiFeiBot, Migmig7868, Hobbitschuster, Absalan and Anonymous: 51 • Nishapur Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Nishapur?oldid=2926018 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT- en) Omid Hatami, (WT-en) Aroundeworld11, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Traveler100, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 2 • Qayen Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Qayen?oldid=2701015 Contributors: Sertmann, LtPowers, (WT-en) Sebindi, (WT-en) Sm- Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 2 ,فلورانس ,nasrollahi, (WT-en) Aroundeworld11, Texugo • Sabzevar Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Sabzevar?oldid=2404227 Contributors: LtPowers, (WT-en) Khajida91, Traveler100, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1 • Torbat Jam Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Torbat_Jam?oldid=2405691 Contributors: LtPowers, (WT-en) Khajida91, Trav- eler100, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1 • Khuzestan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Khuzestan?oldid=2824144 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, W. Frank, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Shaundd, Vidimian, Inas, Saqib, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) ALT wikignome, (WT-en) Pinkfluffybrick, (WT-en) Metaur, The Anomebot2, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot and Anonymous: 10 ,فلورانس ,NJR ZA, LilHelpa, Texugo • Abadan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Abadan?oldid=2637682 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Jjtk, The Anome- bot2, Traveler100, Tiimta, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 8 216 CHAPTER 97. HORMOZGĀN

• Ahvaz Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ahvaz?oldid=2884710 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Peter- fitzgerald, Atsirlin, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Omid Hatami, (WT-en) Ogsirbac, Ikan Kekek, ,Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot ,فلورانس ,The wub, The Anomebot2, Traveler100, CarsracBot, Texugo Maadikhah, Ethically Yours, Missvain and Anonymous: 9 and YiFeiBot فلورانس :Dezful Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Dezful?oldid=2835776 Contributors • • Izeh Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Izeh?oldid=2401251 Contributors: LtPowers, (WT-en) Huttite, Texugo, Inasbot, Trav- eler100bot and Anonymous: 2 فلورانس Khorramshahr Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Khorramshahr?oldid=2696952 Contributors: Ikan Kekek and • • Shushtar Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Shushtar?oldid=2716979 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Saqib, (WT- en) Huttite, (WT-en) Khajida91, (WT-en) Ogsirbac, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1 • Tchogha Zanbil Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Tchogha_Zanbil?oldid=2716950 Contributors: Sertmann, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Shaundd, Saqib, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 2 • Lorestan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Lorestan?oldid=2825077 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Inas, Tsandell, Nurg, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Roshandel, Eco84, The Anomebot2, JuliasTravels, EvanProdromou, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Asdefyn and Anonymous: 6 • Borujerd Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Borujerd?oldid=2912914 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Inas, Tsandell, (WT-en) ,Hobbitschuster ,شاملو ,Morph, The Anomebot2, JuliasTravels, Traveler100, CarsracBot, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Matroc, Addbot Wiki9gel and Anonymous: 7 • Khorramabad Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Khorramabad?oldid=2701660 Contributors: LtPowers, Nurg, K7L, (WT-en) Kha- Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Meysam and Anonymous: 1 ,فلورانس ,jida91, Texugo • Nurabad (Lorestan) Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Nurabad_(Lorestan)?oldid=2653206 Contributors: JuliasTravels and Matroc • Markazi Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Markazi?oldid=2631549 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian, Gire 3pich2005, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Danapit and SaMin SAmIN • Arak Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Arak?oldid=2637822 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Inas, Jnich99, (WT-en) Khajida91, Gire 3pich2005, Traveler100, CarsracBot, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Danapit, Addbot and Anonymous: 1 • Mahallat Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Mahallat?oldid=2302400 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Khajida91, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 4 • Tafresh Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Tafresh?oldid=2407636 Contributors: Nurg, JuliasTravels, Traveler100, Texugo, - ubuntu and Traveler100bot • Qazvin (province) Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Qazvin_(province)?oldid=2406592 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPow- ers, Pashley, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1 • Qazvin Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Qazvin?oldid=2884706 Contributors: Jpatokal, LtPowers, Globe-trotter, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Khajida91, (WT-en) Empelfant, (WT-en) Andy2000, (WT-en) Sangak, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, YiFeiBot and Anonymous: 12 ,شاملو ,Matroc, Maadikhah • Takestan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Takestan?oldid=2445662 Contributors: JuliasTravels • Western Iran Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Western_Iran?oldid=2694021 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Traveler100bot, Asdefyn and Anonymous: 2 ,فلورانس ,Vidimian, Saqib, Nurg, Gire 3pich2005, Texugo • Alborz (province) Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Alborz_(province)?oldid=2884384 Contributors: Ikan Kekek, Texugo, DaG- izza, Missvain and Anonymous: 2 • Chahar Mahaal and Bakhtiari Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Chahar_Mahaal_and_Bakhtiari?oldid=2674512 Contributors: فلورانس Saqib, Texugo and • Hamadan (province) Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Hamadan_(province)?oldid=2849419 Contributors: Traveler100 and Texugo • Ilam (province) Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ilam_(province)?oldid=2631626 Contributors: Texugo • Kermanshah (province) Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kermanshah_(province)?oldid=2929195 Contributors: Ikan Kekek, Tex- ugo and Anonymous: 1 • Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kohgiluyeh_and_Boyer-Ahmad?oldid=2674514 Contributors: فلورانس Saqib, Texugo and • Kurdistan (province) Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kurdistan_(province)?oldid=2631639 Contributors: Texugo • Central Iran Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Central_Iran?oldid=2949315 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, Ymblanter, Texugo, Traveler100bot and Addbot • Qom (province) Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Qom_(province)?oldid=2631575 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, (WT-en) Pinkfluffybrick, The Anomebot2, Texugo, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 1 • Fars Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Fars?oldid=2731563 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, Globe-trotter, Xltel, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) The Yeti, (WT-en) Andy2000, ZxxZxxZ, The Anomebot2, and Anonymous: 3 شاملو ,Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Matroc, Addbot • Abadeh Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Abadeh?oldid=2637683 Contributors: Syced, LtPowers, (WT-en) Khajida91, Tiimta, Tex- ugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1 • Firouzabad Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Firouzabad?oldid=2402458 Contributors: Dguillaume, LtPowers, (WT-en) Kha- jida91, The Anome, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1 • Kazeroon Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kazeroon?oldid=2955354 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Pashley, (WT-en) Khajida91, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, DaGizza and Anonymous: 1 97.14. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES 217

• Margoon Waterfall Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Margoon_Waterfall?oldid=2727340 Contributors: Pashley, Globe-trotter, Ri- ley Huntley, Texugo, Kasravi, Traveler100bot, DaGizza and Anonymous: 1 • Pasargad Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Pasargad?oldid=2717002 Contributors: Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Saqib, (WT-en) Khajida91, (WT-en) Lenel, ZxxZxxZ, The Anomebot2, Inasbot and Traveler100bot • Sepidan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Sepidan?oldid=2778989 Contributors: LtPowers, Pashley, (WT-en) Electricotter, Ikan Kekek, Texugo, ChubbyWimbus, Kasravi, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 2 • Shiraz Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Shiraz?oldid=2957348 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Syced, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Pashley, Globe-trotter, Jonboy, Ravikiran r, Cacahuate, Saqib, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT- en) Episteme, (WT-en) Valtteri, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) Khajida91, (WT-en) Themanwhowouldbeking, (WT-en) Eric Bauman, (WT-en) Joelf, (WT-en) JanSlupski, (WT-en) Janki, (WT-en) Omid Hatami, (WT-en) Sleepyhead, (WT-en) Andy2000, (WT-en) Lenel, (WT-en) Mehrdad Alinejad, (WT-en) Sangak, (WT-en) Bonyan, (WT-en) Arminfrd, (WT-en) Naeemk, Mey2008, Ymblanter, Ikan Kekek, Ebrahim, ZxxZxxZ, LilHelpa, Marek69, Sumone’s bot, EvanProdromou, Texugo, WOSlinker, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Bicarbon, Addbot, Maadikhah, Bruce one and Anonymous: 78 • Isfahan (province) Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Isfahan_(province)?oldid=2954800 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, Lt- Powers, AlasdairW, Globe-trotter, Ravikiran r, Nurg, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-en) Fastestdogever, (WT-en) NAIN- TOURS, LilHelpa, Texugo, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot and Anonymous: 3 • Aran va Bidgol Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Aran_va_Bidgol?oldid=2695994 Contributors: Nurg and JuliasTravels • Isfahan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Isfahan?oldid=2958060 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, AndreCarrotflower, Yp- silon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Pashley, Globe-trotter, Jonboy, Ravikiran r, Xltel, Saqib, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Morph, (WT- en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Hot Coffee, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) Khajida91, (WT-en) Rimu, (WT-en) Mnd, (WT-en) Chinzh, (WT-en) Janki, (WT-en) Od, (WT-en) Omid Hatami, (WT-en) Estelle1789, (WT-en) Sleepy- head, (WT-en) Andy2000, (WT-en) Fabienkhan, (WT-en) Peymora, (WT-en) Mehranm2, (WT-en) NAINTOURS, (WT-en) Meifeng84, ,ZxxZxxZ, Marek69, Sumone’s bot, EvanProdromou, CarsracBot, WOSlinker, Nik1960, Jjtkk, Inasbot ,مانفی ,Ymblanter, Ikan Kekek Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Bicarbon, Addbot, Maadikhah, Flipflopjk, YiFeiBot, Wikiboer, Ttcf, ParsiKade and Anonymous: 74 • Kashan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kashan?oldid=2951035 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Ravikiran r, Xltel, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Khajida91, (WT-en) Joelf, (WT-en) Omid Hatami, (WT-en) Sleepy- head, (WT-en) Andy2000, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, CarsracBot, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Naintours, NetBSDuser, Kashan travel guide and Anonymous: 19 • Matin Abad Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Matin_Abad?oldid=2957871 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Nurg, Texugo, Trav- eler100bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 1 • Na'in Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Na'in?oldid=2919282 Contributors: Wrh2, Ypsilon, LtPowers, JamesA, Pashley, Alice, (WT-en) NAINTOURS, (WT-en) Mohammadieh, This, that and the other, Ikan Kekek, ZxxZxxZ, Magog the Ogre, Traveler100, Sapphire, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Danapit, Ibaman, Naintours, Ttcf and Anonymous: 7 • Varzaneh Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Varzaneh?oldid=2956832 Contributors: Nurg, Ikan Kekek, JuliasTravels, Texugo, Ml31415, Matroc and Mohammad-javad-Isfahan • Kerman (province) Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kerman_(province)?oldid=2892701 Contributors: Sertmann, Ypsilon, LtPow- ers, Vidimian, Pashley, Xltel, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Andy2000, (WT-en) M.r.m2187, Abstraktn, The Anome, NJR ZA, Texugo, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 6 • Bam Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bam?oldid=2892703 Contributors: Sertmann, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Saqib, (WT-en) Meltwa- terfalls, (WT-en) Joelf, (WT-en) Lenel, Abstraktn, NJR ZA, Dave.Dunford, Texugo, Traveler100bot and Addbot • Kerman Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kerman?oldid=2884707 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Jpatokal, Peterfitzger- ald, LtPowers, Pashley, (WT-en) W66LinkBot, (WT-en) Khajida91, (WT-en) Joelf, (WT-en) Sleepyhead, (WT-en) Buttboysarejones, (WT-en) Lenel, (WT-en) Ballsjackson, (WT-en) M.r.m2187, (WT-en) Farshid7, Ymblanter, ZxxZxxZ, The Anomebot2, Traveler100, Texugo, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Farshid7, Wrh2Bot, Asdefyn, Matroc, Addbot, Maadikhah, Ronaldoowen, YiFeiBot and Anony- mous: 7 • Mahan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Mahan?oldid=2713243 Contributors: Ypsilon, LtPowers, AlasdairW, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Khajida91, (WT-en) M.r.m2187, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 2 • Rayen Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Rayen?oldid=2892705 Contributors: LtPowers, Pashley, (WT-en) Lenel, (WT-en) MrStew, Abstraktn, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 2 • Shahdad Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Shahdad?oldid=2949966 Contributors: Sertmann, LtPowers, (WT-en) Khajida91, Ab- straktn, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Farokhmanesh and Anonymous: 1 • Tehran Province Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Tehran_(province)?oldid=2709279 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, ,شاملو ,Globe-trotter, Xltel, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Pinkfluffybrick, (WT-en) Andy2000, Eco84, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Danapit Polkash and Anonymous: 5 • Yazd (province) Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Yazd_(province)?oldid=2619202 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, Pbsouthwood, Lt- Powers, Jonboy, Xltel, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Andy2000, The Anomebot2, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot and Anony- mous: 1 • Yazd Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Yazd?oldid=2900523 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, Atsirlin, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Jon- boy, Xltel, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Khajida91, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Allyak, (WT-en) Janki, (WT-en) Estelle1789, (WT-en) Sleepyhead, (WT-en) Andy2000, (WT-en) Electricotter, (WT-en) Lenel, (WT-en) Mo3000k, (WT-en) MrStew, (WT-en) Shipooli, (WT-en) Bas, (WT-en) Maria2000, (WT-en) Homas, Ikan Kekek, ZxxZxxZ, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Traveler100, CarsracBot, Texugo, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Ad- dbot, Armigo~enwikivoyage, YiFeiBot, Kouroshhotel and Anonymous: 44 • Gulf Region (Iran) Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Gulf_Region_(Iran)?oldid=2539795 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, Ikan Kekek, Texugo, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 3 218 CHAPTER 97. HORMOZGĀN

• Bushehr Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bushehr?oldid=2726987 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Omid Hatami, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Hamedvahid, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, DaGizza, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 6 • Kish Island Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kish_Island?oldid=2868018 Contributors: Wrh2, Jpatokal, Dguillaume, Ypsilon, Lt- Powers, AHeneen, Vidimian, Inas, Jonboy, Xltel, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT- en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Khajida91, (WT-en) Jp james, (WT-en) Andy2000, (WT-en) Jahangard79, (WT-en) Arif Ali Zaidi, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, EvanProdromou, MarkJaroski, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Far-gh, Addbot, Kishgroup and Anonymous: 73 • Qeshm Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Qeshm?oldid=2778551 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Jpatokal, Peterfitzgerald, Lt- Powers, Vidimian, Pashley, Cacahuate, (WT-en) Roundtheworld, (WT-en) Omid Hatami, (WT-en) Sleepyhead, (WT-en) Emes, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, Druzhnik, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 16 • Hormozgān Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Gulf_Region_(Iran)?oldid=2539795 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, Ikan Kekek, Texugo, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 3

97.14.2 Images

• File:20110103_Jame-e_Kabir_and_Roknedin_Mauseleum_Yazd_Iran.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ commons/4/41/20110103_Jame-e_Kabir_and_Roknedin_Mauseleum_Yazd_Iran.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: User:Ggia • File:2013-04-19_09-30-31_Iran_Ostan-e_Esfahan_-_Chah_Taqi_7h.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ commons/5/51/2013-04-19_09-30-31_Iran_Ostan-e_Esfahan_-_Chah_Taqi_7h.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work: Hansueli Krapf (User Simisa (talk · contribs)) Original artist: Hansueli Krapf • File:800px-Stephanus.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e1/800px-Stephanus.jpg License: CC BY-SA 2.5 Contributors: ? Original artist: ? • File:Abbasabad_garden.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/70/Abbasabad_garden.jpg License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: http://www.panoramio.com/photo/52358437 Original artist: MZ.Mirzaei • File:Afif_abad_garden,shiraz.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a8/Afif_abad_garden%2Cshiraz.jpg License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Arman7 • File:Aiga_immigration_inv.svg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fd/Aiga_immigration_inv.svg License: Public domain Contributors: ? Original artist: ? • File:Airliners_parked_at_Mehrabad_Airport_runway.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c4/ Airliners_parked_at_Mehrabad_Airport_runway.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: Shahram Sharifi • File:Akbarieh_garden.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/29/Akbarieh_garden.jpg License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: http://www.panoramio.com/photo/28755880 Original artist: Samaee • File:Ali-qapu-rooz.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/35/Ali-qapu-rooz.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: ? Original artist: ? • File:Ambox_warning_red.svg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/15/Ambox_warning_pn.svg License: Public domain Contributors: This vector image was created with Inkscape. Original artist: penubag • File:Ancient_Bam,_2002.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ed/Ancient_Bam%2C_2002.png License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: en.wiki Image:Iran, Bam.png. Originally uploaded to en.wiki by w:User:Ales.kocourek on 16 March 2006. Uploaded to Commons by User:JackyR Original artist: Ales.kocourek • File:Arg-eRayen.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4b/Arg-eRayen.JPG License: Public domain Con- tributors: Own work Original artist: MrStew • File:Arg-eRayen1.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/79/Arg-eRayen1.JPG License: Public domain Con- tributors: Own work Original artist: Stewart McDowall / User: (WT-shared) MrStew at wts wikivoyage • File:BAZAR.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8b/BAZAR.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: NAEINSUN • File:Babak_Catle_2.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/19/Babak_Catle_2.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: My cousin has taken the photo. Previously published: Panoramio Original artist: Abdossamad Talebpour • File:BadGir.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fd/BadGir.JPG License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: StewartMcDowall - User: (WT-shared) MrStew at wts wikivoyage • File:Badab-e_Surt_Samaee.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/03/Badab-e_Surt_Samaee.jpg License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: Badab Soort spring Original artist: Samaee • File:Baghe_Eram_Shiraz.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bc/Baghe_Eram_Shiraz.jpg License: CC- BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Own work (Original text: self-made) Original artist: Arad • File:Bazaar.of.tabriz12.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikivoyage/en/c/c5/Bazaar.of.tabriz12.jpg License: PD Contributors: own Original artist: ? • File:Blue_Mosque_of_Tabriz.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5f/Blue_Mosque_of_Tabriz.jpg Li- cense: Public domain Contributors: jahanbeen.com, transferred from en.wikipedia Original artist: Alireza Jahanbeen, Reza110 • File:Bozrgrahe_dezful.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ae/Bozrgrahe_dezful.jpg License: Public do- main Contributors: Transferred from fa.wikipedia to Commons. Original artist: Omanfi at Persian Wikipedia 97.14. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES 219

• File:Bushehr_Barry_Kent.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5f/Bushehr_Barry_Kent.JPG License: CC BY 2.5 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Robert Wielgórski a.k.a. Barry Kent • File:Busher1973.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ca/Busher1973.jpg License: Public do- main Contributors: private collection Original artist: Unknown • File:Camel_mill,_Varzaneh,_Isfahan.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/33/Camel_mill%2C_ Varzaneh%2C_Isfahan.JPG License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Mohammadjavad Ebrahimivarzaneh • File:Chehel_Sotoon.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4e/Chehel_Sotoon.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Personal picture - en.wikipedia Original artist: Arad Mojtahedi • File:Choghazanbil2.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/df/Choghazanbil2.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: ? Original artist: ? • File:CyrustheGreatTomb_22057.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/22/CyrustheGreatTomb_22057.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: http://blogtext.org/TruthSeeker/ Original artist: Truth Seeker • File:Damavand_in_winter.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3d/Damavand_in_winter.jpg License: Pub- lic domain Contributors: • http://www.hamedpix.com/details.php?image_id=1 Original artist: Hamed Khorramyar • File:Dar_ul-Hifaz_-_Holy_Shrine_of_Ali_al-Riha_-_Mashhad-Iran.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ commons/9/95/Dar_ul-Hifaz_-_Holy_Shrine_of_Ali_al-Riha_-_Mashhad-Iran.jpg License: CC0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Sonia Sevilla • File:Dasht-mishan.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bc/Dasht-mishan.jpg License: CC BY 3.0 Contrib- Original artist: Reza Hajipour دشت میشان-همدان :utors • File:Dezful-masjed-jameh.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5d/Dezful-masjed-jameh.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: en.wikipedia Original artist: en:User:Zereshk • File:Dizin_Hotel_view.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/35/Dizin_Hotel_view.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Emesik • File:Dizin_snowboarding.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/85/Dizin_snowboarding.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: User:Kaaveh Ahangar • File:Dowlat_Abad_Garden,_Yazd,_Iran.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7a/Dowlat_Abad_ Garden%2C_Yazd%2C_Iran.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidstanleytravel/8906006101 Original artist: David Stanley • File:Dr.As’{}di_Pharmacy_5.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/49/Dr.As%27di_Pharmacy_5.JPG Li- cense: CC0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Sonia Sevilla • File:Edit-clear.svg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f2/Edit-clear.svg License: Public domain Contributors: The Tango! 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