Form 10-300 UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR (July 1969) NATIONAL PARK SERVICE COUNTY: NATIONAL REGISTER OF HISTORIC PLACES INVENTORY - NOMINATION FORM FOR NPS USE ONLY

ENTRY NUMBER (Type all entries — complete applicable sections)

Waioli Mission AND/OR HISTORIC:

STREET AND NUMBER:

Hanalei CODE COUNTY: Hawaii 15 .. Kauai 007 Illlillllllliiijlli CATEGORY ACCESSIBLE OWNERSHIP STATUS (Check One) TO THE PUBLIC

B2 District Q Building D Public Public Acquisition: S Occupied Yes: ,, . , 0 Restricted O Site Q Structure Xl Private [| In Process Unoccupied x , . . I 1 Unrestricted D Object D Both | | Being Considered j j Preservation work L- J in progress ' '

PRESENT USE (Check One or More as Appropriate)

1 I Agricultural [~~1 Government [~[ Park Transportation CH Comments

Q Commercial D Industrial |Xj Private Residence Other (Specify) n Educational D Military |XJ Religious

| | Entertainment B3 Museum Q Scientific

OWNER'S NAME: Waioli Mission, Inc. and Waioli Hui 1 ia Church STREET AND NUMBER:

CITY OR TOWN: Hanalei Hawaii

COURTHOUSE, REGISTRY OF DEEDS, ETC: Bureau of Conveyances, Tax Office Annex STREET AND NUMBER: 403 S. Queen Street CITY OR TOWN: Hawaii

TITLE OF SURVEY: Historic Hawaiian Buildings Survey DATE OF SURVEY-. TMT D Federal QCState DEPOSITORY FOR SURVEY RECORDS: Library of Congress STREET AND NUMBER:

CITY OR TOWN: Washington District of Col (Check One)

Excellent CD Good Q Fair [~[ Deteriorated [~1 Ruins [I] Unexposed

(Check One) fChec/c One)

Altered Q Unaltered Moved |X| Original Site T-REs" RESENT AND ORIGINAL (if known) PHYSICAL APPEARANCE Mission District consists of two adjoining parcels "of" land. The first is the Waioli Mission itself, which is 17 acres in size. On it stand four buildings, the main Waioli Mission Residence (1836) , a garage, and two caretakers cottages The three latter buildings are constructed in such a manner that they fit into the general architectural style of the Mission Residence. The second portion of the district is the church property, less than three acres in size. On it stand the old Waioli Hui'ia Church (1841), the new Waioli Hui'ia Church (1912), and a parsonage associated with the newer church. The district has an incomparable setting in the lush Hanalei Valley on Kauai. The grounds are bounded on the makai (sea­ ward) side by the Kauai Belt Highway, and on the mauka (inland) side by taro fields and foothills leading to sheer cliffs. Old Waioli Hui'ia Church The Old Waioli Hui'ia Church is actually the third church built on its site. The first was a huge thatch structure built by the local populace when they heard that a permament missionary was to be sent to them. It was constructed in 1832, but destroyed by fire in 1834, just prior to the arrival of the Rev. William Alexander. He immediately built another similar structure, but it was destroyed by a storm In 1837. In 1841, Rev. Alexander dedicated the present Old Waioli Huiiria Church. The Old Waioli Hui'ia Church is an imposing structure, with a main interior space of 35 by 70 feet, to which a small kitchen wing was added in 1934. An open lanai (porch) surrounds the building on three sides, with wood posts supporting the eave of the tall, high-pitched roof. The pitch is broken over the plate line with a lesser slope above the lanai. This type of roof, a modified copy of the type of roof used in early Hawaii­ an structures, is referred to now as the "modern" Hawaiian roof. The original roof was thatch, later replaced by shingles then galvanized iron, then back to shingles, which now cover it The walls are of wood frame with rough textured lath and plas­ ter on the interior and exterior, which is painted white. Roof beams are of native lumber, brought from the mountains surround ing Hanalei, and cut to shape by local carpenters. A wood floor and ceiling were added later. Shortly after the church was dedicated, a belfry was construct­ ed behind the main structure. Its architecture is similar, and it stands twenty-four feet in height. (continued) PERIOD (Chech One or More as Appropriate) f~| Pre-Columbian | l~l 16th Century 18th Century Q 20th Century n 15th Century D 17th Century 19th Century

SPECIFIC DATE(S) (It Applicable and Known) 1832 ,1841 ,1912, 19 2 ]T AREAS OF SIGNIFICANCE (Check One or More as Appropriate) Aboriginal f~1 Education r ] Political -Rearming

(~1 Prehistoric I 1 Engineering [X; Religion/Phi­ S Historic [ [ Industry losophy [~1 Agriculture t [ Inventfon [ j Science

[2| Architecture I[ Landscape [ [ Sculpture

D Art Architecture [ I Social/Human­ [ j Literature [ { Commerce itarian [ j Communications j 1 Military C] Theater [ ( Conservation n MUSIC I I Transportation

TATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE Waioli .Mission Church is a unique example of early indigenous Hawaiian architecture combined with 19th century technology to create a style which came to be known as "modern" Hawaiian. This building is one of the few existing structures dating from the early 19th century which was a prototype for many early 20th century buildings in Hawaii. The church is in fair condition and is receiving regular main­ u tenance. As the center of mission activities on the Hanalei side of Kauai, Waioli Church and Mission House played an important role in the history of that part of the island. Presently, Waioli Church is the oldest (1841) church on the Island of Kauai and the whole mission complex is retained in excellent, livable condition despite its age and the deteriorating effects of the weather on Kauai. LU

LLJ Architecturally, Waioli Church and Mission House are signifi­ cant in Hawaii as examples of early missionary building skills and design. The house is an outstanding example of missionary architecture. It is sophisticated in structure and form for such an early date (1136), and the large rooms with single span beams show an understanding of the technology of construction. Although it has been renovated and restored, it has retained its original quality and character due no doubt to the efforts of the restoration architect, Hart Wood. This restoration is an example of a talented architect restraining his creative abilities to restore the basic forms and simplicity of the original buildings. The job was admirably done. The original Waioli Church is also an outstanding example of early missionary architecture, but shows an adaption of New England construction techniques to the unique requirements of the Hawaiian environment. The structure is one of the original of what has become known as the "Hawaiian roof" style, and has been copied and adapted in many more modern buildings. (A "Hawaiian" roof is one having a wide overhand and high pitch. This has the insulating quality of interior space between the interior ceiling and the actual roof. (continued) Memoirs of Rev. W. P. Alexander, ed. James M. Alexander, Pacific Press Publishing Company, 1888. W. P. Alexander in Kentucky, the Marquesas, Hawaii, Mary C. Alexander, Honolulu, 1934. A record of the descendents of Abner and Lucy Hart Wilcox of Hawaii, 1836-1950, compiled by Elsie Hart Wilcox, Honolulu, 1950.

LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE COORDINATES LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE COORDINATES DEFINING A RECTANGLE LOCATING THE PROPERTY ' ) DEFINING THE CENTER POINT OF A PROPERTY , OF LESS THAN TF.N ACRES ————————— ————————————————————————— ———————————————————————— [ CORNER LATITUDE LONGITUDE LATITUDE LONGITUDE

Degrees Minutes Seconds Degrees Minutes Seconds Degrees Minutes Seconds Degrees Minutes Seconds NW 22° 12 ' 17 " 159° 30' 19" 0 • « o ' » NE 22° 12 ' 15 " 159° 30' 13" SE 22° 12 ' 06 " 159° 30' 9" sw 22 Q 12 ' 05 ' 1 ^ qo ^0' 1 5" APPROXIMATE ACREAGE OF NOMINATED PROPERTY: .. _

|LIST ALL STATES AND COUNTIES FOR PROPERTIES OVERLAPPING STATE OR COUN TY^Q4=H>U1ARI ES

STATE: CODE COUNTY s\ \ t>jj— LV^/ T^x. ' CODE rn /*\x xv ^ix^?\ m STATE: CODE COUNTY: /\X £^7?/fV* X^ \ CODE /(Vy/ ^$i* ' " ^ U V«-"*\ / **"*! ' 7 ^ — \ STATE: CODE COUNTY: 1 . /> - } ———! CODE L ——( /\ / ~ ' /Q**. i } CO \ttfi\ f?f°*^f 'CjAt * //\3/ STATE: CODE COUNTY: \ \ ^'^7* 'C /\/ CODE H X-^x ^ x^C/ PO c NAME AND TITLE: "^"'-^^L^L-^^^ Gary T. Cummins, Historian n ORGANIZATION DATE H Dept. of Land & Nat. Resources, Div. of State Parks Mar. 24, STREET AND NUMBER: 1973 O 465 S. King Street CITY OR TOWN: STATE CODE Honolulu Hawaii 15 :'4::$:::'£::::C:^-:AVT:lR:''''i':"::i:'^^ :l::f^::A:'-;l'::l-?T[:K!I: • -•••••••'••'-•x:x-'::v::x:::::': :' ^J^fcV^^^^l^f^l^^lEx-il&'fciWttO: •.•:•'.-:•: :•:•••••:•

As the designated State Liaison Officer for the Na­ I hereby certify that this property is included in the tional Historic Preservation Act of 1966 (Public Law National Register. 89-665), I hereby nominate this property for inclusion in the National Register and certify that it has been evaluated according to the criteria and procedures set forth by the National Park Service. The recommended Chief, Office of Archeology an/f Historic Preservation level of significance of this nomination is: NationaL-^] State [g] Local Q

t

S SUNAO KIDCk. ^L/_^ ATTEST: ^Q Title Chairman " Board of Land & Natural Resources Date May 9, 1973 // / //^ ^k / ' ^^ £ UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR NATIONAL PARK SERVICE Hawaii ATIONAL REGISTER OF HISTORIC PLACES Kauai INVENTORY - NOMINATION FORM FOR NPS USE ONLY

ENTRY NUMBER (Continuation Sheet)

-tfut buildings and overall surroundings and grounds comple­ ment the two major structures. The grounds includes the new Waioli Hui'ia Church (1912), built to satisfy the Hawaiian members of the congregation who wanted a "real" church with stained glass windows and a spire; a garage and two caretakers cottages. The setting and backdrop are breathtaking, and the Mission Complex takes advantage of this, having its lanais and open areas oriented in this direction. Waioli Mission House: The overall appearnace of the Waioli Mission House is that of a shingle-roofed, white painted, early 19th century clapboard farmhouse that had been built onto as the family grew in size. It is a two-story wood frame house built in 1837, with por­ tions added at later times. The first portion is a simple, two-story, structure with gabled roof, clapboard exterior, and small multi lite windows. A separate cookhouse was also built at this time. It has a higher pitched gabled roof, and is only one story. All framing members were hewn from local timber. The foundation, fireplace, and front porch are of cut coral blocks from Hanalei Bay. Zinc plates were originally used to cover the roof. In 1840, a dining room and pantry wing were added between the main house and the cookhouse. Later, a bedroom over the dining room was added and the upper veranda was extended and connected to the front porch by an exterior stair. A covered porch with a low-pitched roof supported at the eave was constructed on three sides of the cookhouse and a shed was attached to the rear of the original two-story portion of the house. Over the years, minor changes and renovations occurred to the building. Eventually, it fell into a state of disrepair. In 1921, two of the heirs, Elsie and Mabel Wilcox, contracted Hart Wopd, a well-known Honolulu architect, to completely re­ store the house. He took care to use as much of the original elements in the restoration as possible. Only those completely beyond salvage were replaced. The only major liberty taken in the building was the installation of modern conveniences, such as electricity and plumbing; all else was restored to the original appearance with as much authenticity as possible. One unique structural element is a column in the main bedroom on the second floor. Apparently the floor had begun to sag (continued)

GPO 921-724 UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR STATE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE Hawaii /NATIONAL REGISTER OF HISTORIC PLACES COUNTY :: INVENTORY - NOMINATION FORM FOR NPS USE ONLY

ENTRY NUMBER (Continuation Sheet)

/ / $»y^\K,jEiie parlor area on the first floor, and the column was placed on the second floor, which separated the bedroom floor from above, and in turn was supported by the roof truss. This unique column in tension is still in use, although some steel members were added to the roof system several years ago. Waioli Mission House is an excellent example of early missionary architecture in Hawaii, with the form, uses, and details imple­ mented as much as possible to remind one of a way of life left far behind in New England. The extensive grounds are well cared for, with lush landscaping surrounding a large lawned area. Currently, the building is in excellent condition, and is receiving outstanding mainte­ nance.

NEW WAIOLI CHURCH Built in 1912, the church is a wood frame structure with a high- pitched gable roof. A tall belfry with a high double-pitched roof dominates one corner of the building. The main entrance is located at the vase of the belfry through double panelled doors with a high gothic arched frame with stained glass set in wood tracery above the doors. Two gothic arched louvered openings provide ventilation at the top of the belfry adjacent to the bell. In the gable end wall next to the front entry a large stained glass window is set in a gothic arch with wood tracery. Smaller stained glass windows in gothic arched frames provide light into the interior of the church. Shed roofs cover the sacristry on each side of the altar. The exterior of the building is covered with wood shingles with projections and recesses reflecting the gothic arch forms. The structure is a well-proportioned example of wood gothic style architecture similar to many built in the United States during the early part of the twentieth century. The building is in excellent condition and receiving exceptional maintenance

OUTBUILDINGS The other buildings on the property, including two caretakers cottages and a garage are not of historic importance themselves, but their architecture is such that they are in visual harmony with the older structures. They are all in good condition and are receiving standard maintenance. Form 10-300a (July 1969) Hawaii NATIONAL REGISTER OF HISTORIC PLACES Kauai INVENTORY - NOMINATION FORM FOR NFS USE ONLY

ENTRY NUMBER (Continuation Sheet)

(Number all entries) (8) The original Waioli Church is also an outstanding example of early missionary architecture, but shows an adaptation of New England construction techniques to the unique requirements of the Hawaiian climate. The structure is one of the originals of what has become known as the "Hawaiian roof" style and has been copied and adapted in many more modern buildings. (Haw'n roof style is a wide overhang and high pitched roof. This has the insulating quality of interior space between the interior ceiling and the actual roof.) The out buildings and overall surroundings and grounds comple­ ment the two major structures. The grounds include the new Waioli Church, built in 1921, to satisfy the Hawaiians who wanted a real church with stained glass windows and a spire, several other more modern houses, open lawn space, a variety of shrubs and trees and a taro field. The setting and back­ drop are breathtaking and the Mission Complex takes advantage of this, having its lanais and open areas oriented in this direction. Historical Significance From the time of their arri h most of the nineteenth century, the Ame in Hawaii exer- cised a strong influence i £3?us, social, poli- tical and economic history death or depar- ture, their descendants con portant and some- times central roles in Hawai ommerce and agri- culture. In the twenty-two mi s established in the island, the missionaries tauglrt~ndt only religion, but also basic school subjects, such as reading, writing, and math. They also instructed members of their parishes in manual arts, such as carpentry, printing, agricultural techniques, etc. They and their descendants were instrumental in shaping the political institutions of the developing Hawaiian nation along the lines of an American-style representative democracy. This influence was a large factor in the eventual annexation of the islands by the United States. Waioli Mission, at Hanalei, Kauai is a tangible reminder of the missionaries' presence in Hawaii. Its beautifully restored buildings afford a glimpse into the life-style followed by the American churchmen in their adopted homeland. Waioli Mission is more than just an example, however. It was a combination religious educational, social, agricultural, and commercial center on Kauai for much of-the nineteenth century. It was the home of the Wilcox family, one of the most prominent in Hawaii,

GP 0 9 21-7 24 UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR '/?\ NATIONAL PARK SERVICE Hawaii NANTIONAL REGISTER OF HISTORIC PLACES Kauai ''pA INVENTORY - NOMINATION FORM H PAJG^ 7 it,««i! FOR NPS USE ONLY \ —•—~* _ X- ENTRY NUMBER (Continuation Sheet) uer

whose members served the monarchy, republic, territory and State of Hawaii in government, agriculture, and commerce for more than one hundred years. Historical Sketch The first mission station on Kauai was established at Waimea on the more accessible south coast in 1820. In 1834, the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions sent the Reverend William P. Alexander, fresh from a tour in the Marquesas Islands to reconnoiter the north coast of Kauai for a suitable location for a second station. He chose the Hanalei area because of its harbor, fertile soil, and needs of the people. The actual site was called Waioli, "Singing Waters". Rev. Alexander and his wife and son moved there in 1834 and began work immediately, preaching to hundred of islanders in a huge thatched meeting house while living in a small grass hut. They began their secular teaching also, and could soon report that 1232 of their students could read and 257 could write. The Alexanders carried on alone with their work until 1837 when the Board of Commissioners sent a teaching couple, Mr. and Mrs. Edward Johnson, to the mission. In the meantime, the Alexanders built a frame house for their growing family. The house still stands on the Waioli Mission property, in restored condition. The Johnson's took over the bulk of the teaching duties and began to place more of an emphasis on educating the childred rather than the adults. Rev. Alexander had earlier noted a drop in enthusiasm for schooling among the older parishioners. Mr. Johnson also supervised the work of the native teachers sent from the Lahainaluna High School on Maui. To help make ends meet, the mission planted crops in land donated by the Governor of Kauai. The students helped cultivate the crops, andty so doing, learned agricultural techniques. Cotton was tried without much success. Sugar cane proved much more suitable. In 1838, a frame house was built for the Johnsons, as their grass hut had fallen victim to the elements. Plans were also made for the construction of a frame meeting house. Materials were collected, and the sugar crop was earmarked to help pay construction costs.

GP 0 921-724 i//\)NITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR NATIONAL PARK SERVICE Hawaii AL REGISTER OF HISTORIC PLACES Kauai INVENTORY - NOMINATION FORM FOR NPS USE ONLY

ENTRY NUMBER (Continuation Sheet) OCT 3

Sugar has been refined from cane before in the islands, but prior to 1835 it had not proven profitable. Waioli's sugar mill was a horse-powered affair with boiling vats obtained from a visiting whaling ship. The venture was successful, however, and out of the proceeds, $413.00 was applied to the labor costs for the new church. Wood was cut in the mountains and dragged down by hand, and coral was taken from Hanalei Bay to be made into lime for the masonry. The new church was dedicated in 1841, and still stands in restored form as the oldest church on Kauai. In 1843, the Alexanders were transferred to the Lahaina station due to illness, and the Rev. and Mrs. George Rowell took their place. In the meantime, Mr. Johnson, concerned about the slowness of the Lahainaluna High School in turning out native teachers, began classes of his own to train them. Additional land was cultivated to meet expenses. Shortly after this, the Hawaiian government began to take more control of educa­ tion, and Waioli Mission School became a "select school". One feature of this was that the most promising students were taught English. Waioli sent several students to the Lahaina­ luna High School for advanced education, and many trained by Mr. Johnson took over teaching duties in the common schools on Kauai. In 1846, Rev. Rowell and his wife were transferred to Waimea and Mr. Johnson was licensed to become the minister at Waioli. Mr. and Mrs. Abner Wilcox and their four boys were sent from to take over the teaching duties. Mr. Wilcox was to 'raise up teachers for the common schools of the island and to prepare those who may go from our Island to the High School". While carrying out his teaching duties, he also managed the growing agricultural enterprises of the mission, which by now included taro, yams, potatoes, beans, corn, and bananas. The produce was sold to passing vessels to help the mission meet expenses. He also undertook to make extensive repairs to the frame house built by Rev. Alexander. He did much painting and plastering, and added a lean-to in the back for his boys. He replaced the koa wood dining room floor with pine, and in 1854, finally replaced the old zinc-plate roof with shingles In 1855, he added a front veranda at his own expense. By mid-century, Hawaii could no longer be considered a pagan land. Most of the people had received some sort of Christian instruction, and they were further advanced in the eyes of the missionaries than any other Pacific islanders. Because of this, the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions

GPO 921-724 Form 10-300a (July 1969) Hawaii NATIONAL REGISTER OF HISTORIC PLACES Kauai INVENTORY - NOMINATION FORM FOR NFS USE ONLY

ENTRY NUMBER Page Four (Continuation Sheet) (Number all entries) (8) began to withdraw support of the Hawaiian Missions. In 1853, the American Board finally transferred the Sandwich Islands Mission to the Hawaiian Evangelical Association, which had the status of a "home mission". To round out the missionaries' pensions, the American Board divided mission lands among them. In this manner, the Waioli home was deeded to the Wilcox family. They had decided to make their home in Hawaii rather than return to the mainland. However, in 1869, while on a last visit to relatives in New England, Mr. and Mrs. Wilcox suddenly fell ill wLth a fever and died. The sons took over the Waioli property, managing the farm operation and keeping the buildings in good repair. Albert Wilcox was the last to live in the frame house, moving out in 1877. The sons went on to become some of the most pro­ minent figures in Hawaii. George Wilcox became a highly suc­ cessful sugar planter on Kauai and entered politics. He was elected to the legislature, where he was a strong opponent of King Kalakaua's autocratic tendencies. In 1887, he was elected to the House of Nobles, and after Kalakaua's death, was appointed Minister of the Interior by Queen Liliuokalani. After the fall of the monarchy, he served the Republic of Hawaii in the consitutional convention, and later, in the Senate. All the while, he continued his sugar operations at the Grove Farm Plantation on Kauai, as well as participating in various other enterprises, such as the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company, North Pacific Phosphate and Fertilizer Company, the First National Bank of Hawaii, and others. The other Wilcox boys also played important parts in monarchy, Republic and Territorial commerce and politics. The family retained possession of Waioli, and saw that it was kept in good condition. It was extensively restored in 1921, and is now being used as a private museum.

GPO 921-724