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‘A BLOODY GOOD BOOK.’ JAMIE OLIVER

Pastry Perfection is a masterclass in preparing, baking and decorating all kinds of , from sweet and salted shortcrust to puff, leavened, PERFECT PASTRY free and hot water. A Masterclass in the Art and Craft of Baking and Decoration

With a Pastry Basics section of recipes, tips and techniques for getting pastry right every time to chapters on Fruit, Meat & Fish, Vegetables, Nuts, Cream & Cheese, Crunch and Crumb and Decoration, Julie Jones provides the techniques, know and jumping off points for you to create your favourite , or pastry in a variety of styles and with topping and decoration limited only by your imagination.

JULIE JONES has been recognised as one of the UK’s most influential bakers thanks to her unique, beautiful pastry creations and her highly creative approach to flavour and decoration. She trained as a chef aged 30 and spent time in a Michelin-starred kitchen honing her skllls. After her mother developed dementia she began baking with her and set up an Instagram feed as a means of documenting her beautiful bakes. With more than 113k followers and an Observer Monthly Best Instagram Feed award in 2018, Julie’s supper clubs always sell out.

‘Julie Bakes with Love. It’s her secret ingredient.’ Pierre Koffman SPECIFICATION: £25 Trimmed page size: Photographs: 175 colour 253 x 201mm (8 x 10in) photographs Julie Jones Hardback Publication: March 2020 208 pages Kyle Books Photography by Peter Cassidy contents

INTRODUCTION 6

PASTRY BASICS 8 Sweet pastry, , Hot Water, Puff, Rough Puff, , Choux, , , Leavened, Gluten Free, Vegan

FRUIT 34 Apple Tart Tatin Apricot, Fennel & Vanilla Danish Mini Banana Tart Tatins Boozy Cherry Pie Lemon Meringue Pie Lychee & Lilac Choux Rings Mango, Pineapple & Thai Basil Tartlets

CREAM & CHEESE 62 Butterscotch Tartlets

Mascarpone, Honey & Fig Hand Pie Tartiflette Pies NUTS 112 Steak & Ale Pudding Nanas Tart , Persimmon & Grape Crab & Fennel Vol au Vents Camomile Panna Cotta Tart Galette des Rois (Almond) Crispy Prawns Brik Pastry Vanilla Slice Hazelnut F & Apple Fish Pies Chocolate Eclairs Paris Brest Pissaladiere Smoked Haddock en Croute VEGETABLES 84 Pine Nut & Honey Danish Beetroot Tart Tatin with Reglais Pistachio Crème Pat & Rhubarb CRUNCH & CRUMB 158 Butternut Squash & Chilli Flat Arlettes Tart Walnut, Pear & Rocquefort Small Pies Nut Roast Pie Churros Celeriac & Mushroom Pot Pie Crackers Courgette & Ricotta Triangles MEAT & FISH 134 Leek & Potato Cheese Domes Beef & Pork Ragu Small Pot Pies Croustade – sugared Shallot Parquet Pies Chicken, Chorizo & Spanish Gruyeres Slow Onions & Poached Egg Parquet Pie Rounds Classic Port Pie Straws Spinach & Feta Croustade Swirl Moroccan Lamb Brik Envelopes Tomato Galette Pork Cheek Stroganoff Pie DECORATION 190 Vegetable Wellington Plait EQUIPMENT 200 INDEX & ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 204 SALTED SHORTCRUST PASTRY SWEET SHORTCRUST PASTRY

This is great pastry, crumbly yet crisp and one I get many compliments for. The secret is to bake the pastry longer This classic sweet pastry is my go-to recipe for all of the sweet pies and in this book and needs no alterations than you would imagine is necessary. There is no joy in eating flabby pale pastry and definitely no appeal in a from one to the next, other than the quantity needed. That said, flavourings such as citrus zest, ground spices and soggy bottom. To achieve the perfect bite, see my tips and techniques on page 16. This pastry is enough to line a vanilla can be added successfully, although I tend to focus the additions of extra flavour in to the pie or tart filling large circular tin measuring 23cm x 3.5cm, with some leftover for small decorations. A fully covered pie will need itself, rather than in to the pastry. The use of gives a finer, smoother finish than that of caster sugar – a double quantity and each recipe in the book lists the quantity of pastry required to make it. resulting in a pastry that is both crisp and delicate.

One quantity of pastry is enough to line a large circular tin measuring 23cm x 3.5cm, with extra for small MAKES: 1 QUANTITY OF SALTED decorations. For a fully covered pie, a double quantity will be needed. Please see individual recipes for the 1: Place the , and salt in 2: Lay out a long sheet of cling film and SHORTCRUST PASTRY, ENOUGH required quantities. the bowl of a freestanding mixer. place the pastry on to one half of the TO LINE A LARGE CIRCULAR TIN Attach the paddle beater and mix on length. Flatten the pastry down with Use a circular tin measuring a medium speed until the butter is the palms of your hands, then fold the 23 x 3.5cm incorporated in to the flour, resembling remaining cling film over the top, fully MAKES: 1 QUANTITY OF 1: Place the flour and butter in the bowl 2: Lay out a long sheet of cling film and 230g plain flour fine breadcrumbs. Add the egg yolk and encasing the . Roll out between SWEET SHORTCRUST PASTRY, of a freestanding mixer. Attach the place the pastry on to one half of the 125g cold unsalted butter, cut into milk and continue to mix, stopping the the cling film to an approximate depth ENOUGH TO LINE A LARGE paddle beater and mix on a medium length. Flatten the pastry down with 1cm cubes moment a cohesive dough forms – this of 5mm, trying to keep it in a circular CIRCULAR TIN speed until the butter is incorporated the palms of your hands, then fold the 1tsp fine salt should take only 30 seconds to 1 minute, shape. Place in the fridge for at least an into the flour, resembling fine remaining cling film over the top, fully 1 medium egg, yolk only Use a circular tin measuring depending on your mixer. Turn the hour (depending on its use). If lining a breadcrumbs. Add the icing sugar and encasing the dough. Roll out between 2 tbsp milk 23 x 3.5cm pastry out on to a work surface and baking tin, please see the notes below * mix for a few seconds before adding the cling film to an approximate depth 230g plain flour bring it together with your hands. the egg yolk and the milk. Continue to of 5mm, trying your best to keep it in a For egg wash 125g cold unsalted butter , cut mix until a cohesive dough forms this circular shape. Place in the fridge for at 1 medium egg, yolk only into 1cm cubes – 50g icing sugar, sifted should take only 30 seconds to a minute, least an hour before further use. 1 medium egg, yolk only depending on your mixer. Turn the 2 tbsp milk pastry out on to a work surface and 3: After resting, roll out between two bring it together with your hands. sheets of baking paper and use as per For egg wash recipe instructions. x 1 medium egg, yolk only

*I would normally suggest resting all pastry in the fridge before lining a baking tin, however I have found that resting this salted shortcrust in the fridge prior to lining results in the pastry cracking when trying to ease it down in to the For further tips and base and sides. Therefore, after rolling, decoration techniques rest outside of the fridge in a relatively cool place for at least an hour. After see pages 20-23. resting, roll the pastry out between two sheets of baking paper and then line your tin. Finish by resting it in the fridge (essential).

18 PASTRY BASICS SWEET AND SALTED SHORTCRUST PASTRY 19 RHURBARB AND PISTACHIO TART WITH BERRIES AND APPLES

I love rhubarb. It has one of those distinct flavours that transports me back to childhood. I’ve many happy memories of eating overly sweetened rhubarb swamped in custard round at Nana Maud’s house, the perfect ending to her epic Sunday roast dinners. This recipe celebrates rhubarb’s characteristic tartness rather than disguising it with too much sugar. I’ve used early forced rhubarb, which is such a treat to use – the beautiful pink to red stems giving a sweeter more delicate flavour. Sadly, the season is short, but up to late summer you can use later greener rhubarb, which works equally well – dust heavily with sugar prior to baking to balance the sharper taste.

SERVES 9 PASTRY BASE to hand, squeezing in the juice of the Pre-bake a pastry case for your tin with remaining lemon. Core and half each Use a loose bottomed square baking tin one quantity of sweet shortcrust pastry apple vertically, then using either a measuring 23 x 23 x 2.5cm (see recipe on page 19). Use any leftover sharp knife or a mandolin slice across 1 quantity sweet shortcrust pastry (see page pastry to make decorations, which can each half to about 3mm. Drop the apple 18) be laid on to the tart prior to baking. slices in to the water and 100g unsalted butter Keep the baked pastry case in its tin for allow to soften in the heat. Check after 100g caster sugar, plus extra for sprinkling later use. 1 minute by bending an apple slice. If it 100g eggs, shelled weight, lightly beaten 70g ground pistachios snaps, continue to simmer for 30 more 80g ground Beat together the butter and sugar, seconds and so on. You want the apples 4-6 rhubarb stems, depending on thickness either by hand or with a mixer. When to be pliable, but not so soft that they 4 eating apples – Pink Lady work well combined, add one third of the ground won’t hold shape. When done, drain and 2 large lemons nuts, mix to combine then add a third plunge in the cold lemony water. Halve 8 blackberries or blue berries of the eggs and so on, until all of the the berries and finely slice the grape. Handful of red or black seedless grapes, ingredients have been added. Be careful optional not to over mix, as this will introduce ADDING THE FRUIT DECORATION Pastry leaves, optional too much air to the which Remove the tart base from the fridge 1 egg yolk for egg wash (if using pastry will have an effect on the finished bake. and start to lay the rhubarb tiles on to decorations) Half fill the pastry case with a layer of the frangipane in a staggered effect – 100ml water 50g caster sugar the frangipane, smoothing out evenly alternating between the red and white ½ tsp ground ginger with a palette knife. Any spare can be sides of the rhubarb. When adding Slivered pistachios, optional kept in the fridge for later use. Place the apples, dry on a tea towel before the tart shell in the fridge while you swirling and placing in a decorative prepare the fruit. manner. You may not need all of the slices. Add the berries, grape slices PREPARING THE FRUIT DECORATION and any pastry decorations you have If decorating the tart as shown you prepared (remembering to egg wash will need to select rhubarb stems that those). When happy with your design, are similar in width to one another. make a sugar syrup by the Carefully slice the rhubarb across each water, sugar and ground ginger for a stem in to 1cm pieces, trimming the few minutes until thickened. Allow coloured skin off the flat side of half, to cool for 5 minutes, then brush the this exposes the white flesh inside. rhubarb and apple slices all over. Place To prepare the apples, squeeze the in the fridge for at least an hour. juice of one lemon in to a large pan and half fill with water. Bring to a simmer and have a bowl of cold water Continued overleaf...

58 FRUIT RHURBARB AND PISTACHIO TART WITH BERRIES AND APPLES 59 TARTIFLETTE PIES

Double carbs, it’s a great phrase. Whenever I see it, I immediately want to eat whatever is being described. These little pies certainly deliver on the comfort front, creamy on the inside, golden on the outside, the hot water pastry providing a gratifying crunch. This recipe can be successfully made in to one larger pie should you not have individual pie moulds.

I’ve found the best way to enjoy these pies is when they are holding just a little bit of warmth. Double carb joy!

MAKES 8 SMALL OVAL PIES for 4 minutes only. Drain and lids. Cut out 8 strips each measuring using specialist tins measuring keep to one side. Pre-heat a large frying 5cm x 24 cm (again depending on your 5.5cm x 10cm x 4cm pan, add the and pancetta and tin size). To line pie tins successfully, fry until the fat has softened and the refer to the tips and techniques on page 1 quantity hot water pastry (see page 22) meat is a golden colour. Remove from 20. Chill in the fridge for 30 minutes. 500g waxy salad potatoes the pan using a slotted spoon. Place on Fine salt – for salting the cooking water kitchen paper to remove excess grease. 5: Fill the pie shells with the potato 1tbsp olive oil mixture up to half way. Add small 200g smoked pancetta lardons 20g butter 3: To the same pan add the butter pieces of the cheese then top with more 200g sweet pink onions, finely along with the onions, garlic, thyme, a of the potatoes, almost but not quite sliced sprinkling of sea salt and a grinding of up to the top of the moulds. Brush the 1 large garlic clove, finely sliced black pepper. Slowly fry over a gentle tops of the pastry sides with a little Sea salt & black pepper heat until soft and golden, stirring egg wash and secure a pastry lid on 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves occasionally, for about 15 minutes. Add each, pressing down to seal. Add some 2 level tbsp plain flour the flour and cook for another minute, extra pastry decorations if you want to, 200ml double cream stirring so that the flour doesn’t stick securing each addition in place with a 100ml milk to the pan. Finally, add the cream and little more of the egg wash. When done, 40g Reblochon cheese , rind removed the milk and simmer for two minutes egg wash the entire top, decorate them 1 medium egg, yolk only (for egg wash) to make a thick sauce. Add the potatoes then add a steam hole to each pie using and the pancetta and mix well to coat a skewer or similar. Refrigerate for at all of the ingredients in the sauce. Check least an hour. 1: Make the hot water pastry following for seasoning, adjusting if needs be. the recipe and method on page 22 up to Allow the mixture to cool completely. 6: Bake in a pre-heated oven set to 180° and including the fridge resting stage. for 25 minutes. Carefully remove the 4: Take the hot water pastry out of the pies from their tins, re-egg wash the 2: For the filling, slice the potatoes to ¾ fridge and roll out on a lightly floured tops and brush all of the sides before cm, either by hand or using a mandolin. work surface to approximately 3mm. returning to the oven for a further 15 Bring a large pan of salted water to the Cut out 16 pieces (shape depending on minutes, or until beautifully golden and boil and drop the potato slices in to it, your tins) – 8 for the bases and 8 for the crisp. Leave to cool on a wire rack. CHICKEN, CHORIZO AND SPINACH PIE

Roasting a whole chicken instead of using only the required individual cuts for this recipe is beneficial in more ways than one. By doing so you’ll have tastier, moister chicken meat with the added bonus of having the juices to add back to the sauce to enhance the roast chicken flavour. Any leftover meat can be used for another , which is both advantageous and cost-effective. Chorizo proves to be a perfect partner here, providing depth of flavour and a welcoming smokiness. Serve a generous wedge of pie per person, along with some lightly steamed greens tossed in best quality extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice and salt flakes. Both comforting and delicious.

SERVES 6 1: Using 1 quantity of the pastry, pre- over a low heat for 20 minutes, stirring bake a pastry shell using a 23 x 3.5 cm occasionally. Drain any excess fat from Use a circular tin measuring 23cm x loose bottomed tart tin. See tips and the onions. 3.5cm techniques on page 20 if needed. Set 2 quantities of salted shortcrust pastry aside until ready to fill and top. 5: Skim and discard the fat from the (see page 19) roasting tin then place the tin over a 1 medium chicken 2: Pre-heat the oven to 180°C. Place the high heat, allowing the juices to reduce Olive oil for roasting chicken in a roasting tin and cover with to about a third. In the meantime, Sea salt & black pepper 150g dry-cured chorizo, halved, skinned a good drizzle of olive oil followed by start to make the sauce by melting the and sliced to 1cm a generous sprinkling of sea salt and butter in a saucepan, add the flour and 200g onions, finely sliced grinding of black pepper. Place in the stir until thick, then add the reduced 1 large garlic clove,finely sliced centre of the oven and roast for 1hr 15, chicken juices and whisk together. Pour 30g butter basting twice during this time. When in the milk, whisking to avoid it going 3 level tbsp plain flour cooked, remove from the oven and lumpy and allow to simmer for a few Reduced chicken juices allow to cool and rest in the roasting tin minutes – cooking out the flour. Stir in 300ml milk for an hour. the . Add the drained onions 3 tsp wholegrain mustard and chorizo to the chicken and pour 60g baby spinach, tough stalks removed 3: When the chicken has cooled, remove over the sauce, stirring well to coat all Egg wash (1 egg yolk mixed with a splash from the tin reserving the juices. Take of the ingredients. Check for seasoning of boiling water) off the breasts, the legs and the oysters and adjust if necessary. Finally, stir in from underneath. You will only need the spinach leaves and allow to cool for to use one of the breasts for this recipe. a while. The other breast, along with the wing meat and skin can be used for another 6: Add the chicken mix to the pre-baked meal. Dice the meat of one breast and pastry case, filling all the way to the top. both the legs in to equal-sized pieces, Use the remaining quantity of pastry to around 2cm. Place in a bowl along with top and decorate the pie, using the tips the chicken oysters and set to one side. and technique pages for inspiration and guidance if needed. Once topped, chill 4: Place the sliced chorizo in a cold for at least 1 hour prior to baking. frying pan and cook over a low heat, stirring occasionally. Allow the fat to 7: When ready to bake, egg wash the top slowly melt from the sausage, with the carefully and place in a pre-heated oven slices turning golden brown in their set to 180°C. The pie should be golden own time. This takes 15 minutes or so. and fully baked within 45 minutes. Best Using a slotted spoon, remove and set served hot. on to kitchen paper. Add the onions and garlic to the chorizo fat, adding a pinch of salt and some pepper, cover and cook

138 MEAT & FISH