An Introduction to Timber Framing Learning This Traditional Method Begins with the Mortise-And-Tenon Joint
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An Introduction to Timber Framing Learning this traditional method begins with the mortise-and-tenon joint by Tedd Benson he standards of work in timber-frame struc- happen only as a result of good joinery. Precise tureTs aren't new; we have inherited them from work is as important in timber framing as it is in a 2,000-year-old tradition of craftsmanship. The cabinetry, so joint-making is the first thing an evolution of this building method (which aspiring timber-framer needs to learn. throughout much of history was just about all there was to carpentry) resulted from pursuing Mortise and tenon—This joint is practically a very simple goal: to put together better and the definition of a timber frame. Most of the stronger buildings. The proof of the success of joints that go into a frame are variations on the this development can be found in the barns, basic mortise-and-tenon joint. Once you've houses, churches, temples and cathedrals that mastered the skills for making this joint, you have become architectural treasures in all parts should be able to execute just about any other of the world. It wasn't until the advent of nails, joint in the frame. And since there are several joinery hardware and dimensioned lumber that hundred joints in the average timber frame, true timber framing went into decline. speed and precision are equally important. In reviving the craft today, we pay careful at- The joint we will be working on is the should- tention to the lessons and the standards ered mortise-and-tenon (above). It's a good ex- evinced by these old buildings. Indeed, the ample of a slightly modified mortise-and-tenon. thrill of practicing timber framing today lies in We use this type of joint where major girts or knowing that there is much left to learn, and in connector beams join a post. The full width of believing that each improvement brings us the horizontal timber is held by the bottom closer to the day when we can feel we are no shoulder on the post, and this extra bearing longer journeymen. At the same time, we are surface makes the joint far stronger than a working toward continued refinement and de- straight mortise-and-tenon. velopment. Timber-frame buildings are finding renewed acceptance for many reasons, but the Squaring up—Before you can lay out the joint, integrity of the structure and the rewards to the the timber must be square at the joint area. craftsman and home owner are preserved only Each face of the joint must be square if you're when high standards are maintained. going to achieve a precise fit. One way to In our own shop we have learned this obvi- square and flatten timbers is to run them ous truth the hard way—good timber frames through a large thickness planer. With pine, What makes a good framing chisel? The framing chisel is to the timber framer rugged enough to take demanding use. Its The slick—This tool is just a chisel with a what the racket is to the tennis player: You problems are that it is still a tang chisel, and wide blade and a long handle that is not can't play the game without it. Since every with a length of more than 19 in., it's just too meant to be struck with a mallet; it's designed phase of timber framing requires work with long for fine work. With such a long tool, the to be pushed by hand. The slick is used for the chisel, you will want to own the best timber being worked must be very low so you paring large surfaces, and it's especially good possible tool. A good chisel will not make you can strike the chisel at a comfortable level. for slicing across the grain to finish the sides a good timber framer, but like a good racket, Still, it is pleasing to see a tool that is so well of mortises and tenons. Of course a chisel can it will immediately improve your game and made, and if you don't work your beams up on be used for final paring as well, but most make you much happier as you learn. Those sawhorses like we do, it might be just right. professional timber framers prefer a slick of us who work with timbers a lot look for the We are just becoming familiar with Japanese because its wide blade makes for quick, perfect chisel the way that King Arthur's chisels. These tools fulfill most of the accurate work on broad surfaces, and its long knights used to search for the Holy Grail. It's requirements I mentioned earlier, and with handle provides extra leverage and control. just that elusive. their laminated steel blades, they have a Since this tool is used only for paring, its Let me describe the perfect framing chisel, harder cutting edge than any Western chisels. bevel should be ground to a shallow angle— sometimes called a firmer chisel or a The problems are that the blade is quite short about 20° to 25°. There aren't many brands beamer's chisel. The blade should be stout (about in.) and the metal at the socket of slicks. Most people in our shop use the and strong, but not too long because it's seems to be made from softer steel, which can slick sold by Woodcraft; it's well made difficult to control the cutting edge if your bend too easily. These chisels work very well and moderately priced. However; for hand is a foot away. The blade should be 6 in. as long as they're not struck, so we use them the quality of steel, light weight to 8 in. long, in. thick at the shoulder, and for paring. and balance, I would have in. thick at the bevel. The steel must have a Most chisels are bought with a factory bevel to say that the best Rockwell hardness in the range of 60 (C) if it's of between 25° and 30°. This angle is fine for are made by the going to hold a good edge, especially in oak or mortising softwoods such as pine, spruce, fir Japanese. If other hardwoods. The back of the blade must or hemlock. For work in hardwood, it's better I can save be honed perfectly flat if it's to cut true. To to change the angle to between 35° and 40°. enough reduce friction and to enable the cutting edge Too blunt a bevel angle will crush the wood money, to get into tight places, it's better if the side fibers in softwoods, while too shallow an I'll buy edges are bevel ground. The handle itself angle can cause the chisel to chip if you're one. should be hickory or ash, and it should be working in hardwood. —T.B. fitted with a steel ring just below its striking In either case, the honing angle should be surface. To prevent the handle from splitting, about 5° greater than the angle of the bevel. it should fit into a socket rather than over a This makes the cutting edge stronger by tang. You'd order the tool as a bevel-edged eliminating the feathering at the tip. It also socket framing chisel. Old or new, I have yet allows you to touch up the edge quickly to see an unmodified tool that fits this since there is so little surface area on the description. The chisel you will get will honed edge. probably be a compromise. For honing, we use two stones: a soft and If you are lucky enough to find an old a hard Arkansas, Though we've started to framing chisel that is still in good condition, experiment with Japanese waterstones in buy it. Most of these are socket types (the old- the shop, the Arkansas stones are the timers were very practical) and you might ones we take to the site. There are a well find one of the better-known brands like few jigs available that clamp to the Buck, Witherby or White. Be careful, though. chisel, guiding it across the stone Many of these old chisels have lost their to maintain a consistent honing temper or have been used as a pry bar once angle, but we haven't found too often. much use for them. If you If you're buying a new chisel, you'll spend enough time using probably have to choose between a Marples your chisel, you should be (heavy-duty tang), Sorby (heavy-duty tang), or able to hone by eye, and Greenlee, and several brands of Japanese by feel. Be sure to back temple carpenter's chisels (see tool retailers off (hone the back of list below). Almost everyone in our shop uses the blade) only on the either Marples or Sorby chisels. They have finer stone. After a excellent blades and are nicely balanced. Most chisel has been of us have modified them by having the edges honed four or Where beveled at a local machine shop. All of us are five times, we to get frustrated by the frequency with which we regrind the them have to replace split handles. basic bevel. The following companies The most disappointing chisel in the group sell framing chisels: is the Greenlee. Though they do have sockets Frog Tool Co. for the handles, my experience with them 548 N. Wells St., Chicago, Ill. 60610.