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Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge Vol. 2(3), July 2003, pp. 230-235 Ethnobiological wisdom behind the traditional mug a silk industry in Assam S K Borthakur Department of Botany, Gauhati University, Guwahati - 781014, India Received 28 March 2003 This article focuses on indigenous knowledge, innovations, practices and beliefs pertaining to muga silk industry - a traditional cottage industry in Assam, which had its origin in the dis­ tant past and continued till today. Keywords: Muga silk industry, Antheraea assama, Pen'ea bombycina, Litsea mOl/opetala, Brahmaputra Valley, Tai Ahoms, Rabhas, Garos, Traditional implements, tools and methods, Beliefs and associated practices. The cottage sector textile industry is a the production of this precious silk is habitual diligence among the communi­ mainly practiced by the Tai Ahoms of ties living in Assam. The antiqueness of upper Assam districts and to a limited this industry in the state is not definitely extent by the Rabhas and the Garos of l 4 known. However, handloom weaving and Goalpara district of lower Assam - • rearing of mulberry, endi and muga Muga silkworm is polyphagous, semi­ worms for production of different kinds domesticated and multivoltine in nature of silk yarn were known to be patronised having five generations in a year. In ac­ by the Ahom Kings during their reign cordance with Assamese calendar the dif­ from 1228 to 1826. With the advent of ferent generations are known as: (i) larua mill-made yarn, the spinning of yarn from - winter, (ii) Chatua - early spring, cotton was replaced by mill-made ones (iii) lethua - spring, (iv) Aherua - for use in handloom weaving in Assam. early summer, and (v) Kotia - late But the traditional production of different summer or early winter. Of all these gen­ kinds of silk yarn and fabric still plays an erations, the early winter and spring gen­ important role in the economy of the rural erations produce silk best in quality and people of the state. Tusser silk is not pro­ also in quantity5.6. duced in Assam and of the other three The primary host plants of muga silk­ silks, the golden colour muga silk pro­ worm are Persea bombycina (King ex duced by Antheraea assama Westwood is Hook.f.) Kost. (Sum, local name) and Lit­ confined to the Brahmaputra Valley of sea monopetala (Roxb.) Pers. (Sualo) of Assam only, in the whole world. Even in the family Lauraceae. In addition to the Assam, rearing of muga silkworms for primary host plants, Litsea salicifolia BORTHAKUR : TRADITIONAL MUGA SILK INDUSTRY IN ASSAM 231 (Roxb. ex Nees) Hook. f. (Dighlati) , L. (i) Traditional implements and tools cubeba (Lour.) Pers. (Mejankari), Persea used for rearing the worm: odoratissima (Nees) Kost. (Jati-sum), All the traditional implements (Fig. 2) Melastoma malabathricum L. (Melas­ used for rearing of TYlll0<'l silk worms are tomaceae : Phutuka), Averrhoa caram­ made of bamboo belonging to the species bola L. (A verrhoaceae : Kordoi), Meyna Bambusa tulda Roxb. (Jatibah), B. laxijlora Robyns. (Rubiaceae : Kotkora) arundinacea (Retz.) Willd. (Tomalbah) and Barringtonia acutangula (L.) Gaertn. and B. balcooa Roxb. (Bholukabah) . (Barringtoniaceae : Hijal) are also used as These include Muga-para basket for col­ secondary host plants. lection and storage of cocoons, Chelingi - The laying of eggs and formation of a triangular sieve used for shifting worms cocoons are the only two stages of rearing from one host plant to another, Batalu­ of muga silkworm, which are confined to dhanu bow for shooting pellets and Khu­ indoors. Once the worms emerged from rung - a small basket for keeping clay the eggs, they are shifted to the host pellets. plants grown in exclusive gardens, locally known as Sumani (Fig. 1). On maturation, (ii) Materials used during the rearing the worms come down of the host plants, of worm: which are collected and allowed to form The male and female moths are tied cocoons. For successful rearing of the in pairs on a stick-like bundle of culms insect, the rearers are still guided by tra­ of Imperata cylindrica (L.) Beauv. ditional customs and beliefs. Moreover, (Poaceae: Ulukher), locally known as the people still prefer to use tools and Kathi. Likewise, the worms on maturity implements innovated indigenously, and are provided with bundles of withered other local materials for rearing the leafy twigs, locally known as Jali, of one worms, spinning and dyeing the yarn, and or the other of the following selective 4 8 weaving the cloth - . plants viz., Symplocos racemosa Roxb. The purpose of this article is to focus (Symplocaceae : Bhumlati), Mesua ferrea on traditional knowledge, innovations, L. (Clusiaceae : Nahar) and Lagerstro­ practices and beliefs associated with the emia speciosa Pers. (Lythraceae : Ajar), rearing of rpuga silkworms, spinning and for formation of cocoons (Fig. 3). dyeing of yarn, weaving, and other ac­ tivities involved in the industry. The work (iii) Biological control of predators and is based on observations made during the other associated aspects : ethnobotanical studies among the Tai The moths are provided with a room in Ahoms of upper Assam. a thatched hut, the walls of which are plastered with mud, for copulation and Observations subsequent laying of eggs. The floor of The findings of the study are the hut is sprinkled with wood-ash, which broadly categorised into following prevents the entry of other insects. Even headings: in the room nobody is allowed to enter to 232 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL 2, No. 3. JULY 2003 Fig. I - Exclusive garden Sumani of Persea bOlllbvcilla plantation. Fig. 2 - Accessories made of bamboo used for rearing muga silkworms: On the foreground - Cheiillgi ; On the right and left of background - Muga-para ; On th e middle of background - Khurung ; and On the middle of the picture -Batalu-dhanu. BORTHAKUR : TRADITIONAL MUGA SILK INDUSTRY IN ASSAM 233 Fig. 3 - lali or bundles of withered leafy twigs of Lagerstroemia speciosa provided for formation of cocoons. Fig. 4 - A woman rearer in her rearing yard. Note the girdle of leaf-sheath of CatimbiulIl malaccense at the base of the host plant and also the Chelingi - the triangular sieve, used for collecting and shifting the worms. 234 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL 2, No. 3, JULY 2003 ensure the protection of eggs and the Catimbium malaccense (Burm. f.) Holt­ worms from other germs. The moths are tum (Zingiberaceae : Tora) or Musa bal­ allowed to copulate only for an overnight bisiana Colla (Musaceae : Athiacol ) is and then they are decoupled and male provided at the base of each plant. The moths are driven away by lighting a fire worms never cross or even touch this gir­ at some distance in the next morning. dle. Probably the chemical substances Likewise, the female moths are allowed present in these plant materials are re­ to lay eggs for a maximum of three days sponsible for the repel of the worms. and then they are removed from the sticks. (iv) Beliefs and associated practices: Before transferring the worms to the One of the members of the rearer fam­ feeding yard, the trees are cleaned by re­ ily stays in a hut in the feeding yard from moving dried leaves and twigs, and the the very day the worms are transferred to undergrowths are completely weeded out. the host plants, till maturity. During this The rearers recognise the birds and period, which varies from 30 to 45 days, other animals predacious on muga silk­ it is customary not to cut hairs, shave worms and during day time these are beard and trim nails by the person staying driven away by shooting pellets with a in the feeding yard and he or she has to bow. But nocturnal predators are driven prepare his or her food himself or herself. away by a unique device. A duck is en­ Before the worms are transferred to the caged in a bamboo basket and hang from feeding yard and after collection of the a twig atop a tree in the feeding yard. worms on maturity, the rearer performs With slightest disturbance the duck sacrificial rites to appease the sylvan de­ screams, which drives away the nocturnal ity, locally known as Phi-thun of the predatory birds and bats. There are many feeding yard, by offering eggs, fowls and insects, which also attack the worms. For rice-beer. controlling the insects a few scaly fishes like Puntius sophore Ham. (Cyprinidae: (v) Traditional spinning and weaving Puthi), Channa punctatus Bloch. (Chan­ implements and method of dyeing nidae: Goroi) and C. orientalis Bloch. the yarn: (Changeli) are tied at the base of trees, The spinning is done with a traditional which keep the insects engaged at the implement which is known as Bhanguri, base of the trees and they never climb made of timber, and the weaving is done above to reach the worms. The scaly through shuttle looms (Maku-sal). The fishes are used because the insects require muga silk yarn usually does not require a longer time to eat them. any dyeing. But to brighten the natural Sometimes the worms climb down the golden colour, the yams are boiled in an trees before maturity and to prevent this, alkali solution, which is prepared by a girdle (Fig. 4) with leaveS of Microso­ leaching the sash of dried leaf-sheaths of rium punctatum (L.) Copel. (Polypodia­ Musa balbisiana Colla (Musaceae : Athi­ ceae : Miriani-mura) and leaf-sheaths of acol). BORTHAKUR : TRADITIONAL MUGA SILK INDUSTRY IN ASSAM 235 Discussion allowing the investigator to record the The rearing of the muga silk worm information on rearing mug a silkworms (Antheraea assama) is an age old practice for this paper. confined only to a few communities in some parts of Assam. It not only yields a References precious golden coloured natural silk but 1 Anonymous, Muga silk Industry, (Directorate the worms after formation of cocoons are of Sericulture and Weaving, Gov!.

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