7 k . u 2 h. 0 lso 1 a c N h . c m o f L n i l dl DUNTULMn i a u 7 e c . y : o 2 k e 0 S n 1 l i g n Flora n o i MacDonald's v n

r e Monument r e t S s l i KILMUIR

T t UIG R O h T L i T

E CU

R

N E

GLENHINNISDALE I

S H a ORNISH

Old Man s of Storr

E t

S

S S k Snap shot y Spectacular landscape and incredible rock

formations make a leisurely drive through e the North East of Skye a must do for any itinerary

56

The Kilmartin

Mon–Sat 10am–5pmLic etnhseend R6 e–s8ta.u3r0anptm /Café Good Scottish Fayre • Homebaking (made on site) ContaFcrte Msho Braargis otan C 0of1fe4e7 •0T 5ak6e2a3w2a2y Fish & Chips, etc Find uLso cianl ASrttas fafnind CCroamftsm • uChniiltdyre Hn aWlel,l cSotmae ffin (OPEN UNTIL 9pm DURING AUGUST) Check out The Visitor website at www.welcometothehighlands.com ! ! Ellishadder ART CAFE

Ellishadder Art Café offers irresistible home baking, mouth-watering meals using fresh local produce, original artwork, a luxury range of handmade gifts

and a warm welcome!

We look forward to seeing you soon!

! dogs welcome ! credit cards accepted !

Ellishadder, Nr Staffin, IV51 9JE 01470 562734 www.ellishadderartcafe.co.uk

57 58 Published by West Publishing Company Limited, Pairc nan Craobh, Broadford, Isle of Skye IV49 9AP

TRACK LISTING 1 The Loch Tay Boat Song

2 Introduction The FREE V THE 3 South West Ross – Lochcarron, Plockton, Kyle 4 North West Ross – north of Lochcarron to Ullapool Holiday Guide 5 South Skye, and Mallaig 6 , Central Skye and to the I 7 North West Skye West Highlands S 8 North East Skye 9 Some Gaelic phrases

and Islands I N10 The Marquis of Huntly’so Farewell rth East Skye

11 Introduction T 12 Le Sud-ouest du Ross – Lochcarron, Plockton, Kyle

13 Le Nord-ouest du Ross – du nord O de Lochcarron jusqu’à Ullapool 14 Le Sud de Skye, Sleat et Mallaig 15 Portree, le Centre de Skye et Raasay 16 Le Nord-ouest de Skye R 17 Le Nord-est de Skye 18 Quelques phrases et expressions en Gaélique 19 Big John MacNeill’s Reel 20 Einleitung 8 17 26 21 Südwest-Ross – Lochcarron, Plockton, Kyle • Voices 22 Nordwest-Ross – nördlich von Lochcarron bis nach Ullapool Anna Murray | Ann Desseyn | Andreas Wolff 23 Süd-Skye, Sleat und Mallaig • Writer 24 Portree, Mittel-Skye und Raasay Iain Finlay Macleod 25 Nordwest-Skye • Translations 26 Nordost-Skye Gerlinde Krug | Fanny Fraser 27 Gälische Redewendungen 28 • Music The Barren Rocks of Aden Sgoil Chiùil na Gàidhealtachd (National Centre of Excellence in Traditional Music) Spectacular scenic delights abound in North East Skye In an island of dramatic contrasts, the drive further north, there are century in an attempt to bring to an peninsula of north-east breathtaking views across the islands end the iniquities of the Highland Skye has its own particular scenic of and Raasay to the Clearances in which hundreds of delights to offer — including the mainland beyond. thousands of people were forced off the bizarre land formations of the Quiraing Lealt Gorge contains one of Skye’s land by the big landowners to make and Trotternish Ridge. Winter brings out most spectacular waterfalls. Further on way for “improvements”, be it large- the harsh majesty of this dramatic is another dramatic landmark — the scale sheep farming or deer forests. geology. aptly-named Kilt Rock cliffs, plunging Today, crofting is largely a part-time The coastal road north from Portree down to the sea. form of agriculture based usually on to Staffin passes Lochs — The townships of the Staffin area sheep and cattle production. The crofter Lochs Fada and Leathan — which feed offer some of the best examples of will usually have a job — full-time or the island’s small hydro-electric crofting on Skye. Crofting is a system of part-time — as well as working the station. Inland, above the road, towers agriculture based on a unique form of , and many crofters provide bed and the plateau of Storr with the giant landholding, which offers statutory breakfast accommodation for visitors. pillar of the Old Man of Storr. As you security of tenure. It was introduced last The crofts at Staffin are clustered ៉

59 North East Skye D1 ToHnE O’LD tMA Nm OF iSTsORsR A few miles north of Portree, the Old Man is a huge pinnacle of rock standing ៉ around a beautiful sandy bay, and as you leave Staffin you in front of the Storr Ridge which rises to around 2,300 are faced with a difficult choice: whether to follow the road feet . around the north coast, or to take the link road to Uig across 2 KILT ROCK WATERFALL The vertiginous 200-feet high the Quiraing. If time permits you really shouldn’t miss out cliffs, so called because they resemble the pleats of a kilt, on either. is where you will find the Kilt Rock Waterfall flowing over The weird rock formations of the Quiraing are like nothing the cliff edge and into the sea below. you will see elsewhere in Skye or anywhere in for 3 FLORA MACDONALD’S MONUMENT AND SKYE that matter. After the steep and tortuous climb over the MUSEUM OF ISLAND LIFE A collection of traditional Quiraing, the road winds through moor and peat bog before thatched blackhouses which show how islanders used rejoining the coast road for the drop into Uig, with fine views to live. Nearby is the monument to Flora MacDonald out across the Minch and over to the who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape from his peninsula. enemies. Meanwhile, the road north from Staffin passes Flodigarry 4 STAFFIN A traditional crofting township overlooking (what is now the Flodigarry Hotel was once the home of and Staffin Bay. Flora MacDonald of Bonnie Prince Charlie fame) and winds round to and Kilmuir. The ruined Duntulm Castle — 5 DUNTULM CASTLE A Viking stronghold which later once a stronghold of the MacDonalds—is easily reached by a became home to the MacLeods and then the short walk along the grassy headland, and while at Kilmuir MacDonalds. King James V visited the castle in the 16th century. The castle is situated atop cliffs and has great you should pause to see Flora MacDonald’s monument. views of the Outer . On round to Uig, the ferry point for Lochmaddy in and Tarbert in Harris, and itself a lovely village with a 6 THE QUIRAING Incredible rock formations caused fine bay and wooded glens. From here the road leads back to by a landslide millions of years ago – drive over the Portree, past Kingsburgh and through Kensaleyre with its Quiraing to the pretty village of Uig, gateway to the . standing stones and views over Loch Snizort Beag. ɀ

60