Shire of Esperance

MUNICIPAL HERITAGE INVENTORY

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O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS for

The Shire of Esperance

by

O'Brien Planning Consultants Suite 23/1 Rokeby Road P0 Box 1136 SUBIACO WA 6008 Tel: 388 2308 Fax: 388 2327

June 1996 A CKNO WLEDGEMENTS

A community project the size of the Shire of Esperance Municipal Inventory is only possible with the enthusiasm, energy and hard work of a number of people.

Beginning with the Community Liaison Committee, we are extremely grateful to the members of the Committee for the hours of work and the many years of knowledge which you have collectively contributed to the Inventory. Thanks to Jenny Allen, Don Voigt, Kayleen Freeman and Andy Dunn for the additional research which they contributed. You have all made it so much easier for future generations to know about and appreciate the places of heritage value in the Esperance district.

To the Esperance Shire Council Staff and the Councillors who showed an interest in the project, your contribution and assistance were much appreciated.

We would like to acknowledge the work of John Rintoul, Esperance - Yesterday and Today which contributed greatly to our production of the Thematic Framework Matrix.

Our thanks go also to the Heritage Council of WA who are always willing to assist us with information and advice.

O'Brien Planning Consultants June 1996 Page PART A THE PROCESS

1. Introduction 1

2. Methodology 3

2.1 Outline of Proposed Approach to Project 3

2.2 Thematic Framework Matrix 6 and Historical Overview

2.3 The Community Liaison Committee 8

2.4 Public Participation 9

2.5 The Assessment Phase 9

2.5.1 Summary of Assessment Process 9

2.6 Maps showing Shire of Esperance 13

PART B THE THEMATIC FRAMEWORK

1. Thematic Framework 1

1.1 Historical Overview 1

1.2 Thematic Framework Matrix 54

1.3 List of Themes, Subthemes and Site Types 55

1.4 Bibliography 61

PART C THE INVENTORY

1. Shire of Esperance Municipal Heritage Inventory 1 1.1 List of Places on Inventory 1 1.2 List of Places for further research by Review Committee 3

2. List of Historic Sites 4

3. Place Record Forms for Places listed on the following Shire of Esperance Municipal Heritage Inventory SHIRE OF ESPERANCE MUNICIPAL HERITAGE INVENTORY Page 1

The Shire and community of Esperance are to be commended on the way they enthusiastically approached the daunting task of compiling a Municipal Heritage Inventory. After months of extensive research and editing by a group of local people, they have compiled a local resource document of which they can justly be proud.

The Heritage Act of 1990, which requires all local authorities in Western to compile a Municipal Heritage Inventory, provides an opportunity for the local community in the Esperance district to celebrate their roots and heritage. The process of compiling a Heritage Inventory enables the citizens of Esperance to identify those places of historical and cultural significance for the communities in the district.

The Municipal Heritage Inventory process focuses on events and developments in Western Australian history since the arrival of European settlers. It does not attempt to record the legacy of Aboriginal occupation prior to the European settlement in . This is beyond the scope of this project. The complexities that arise in recording 40,000 years of Aboriginal habitation in Australia are immense. The history of the Australian Aboriginal people is a rich collation of memories, passed down the generations, using the traditional time honoured oral method.

The Department of Aboriginal Affairs and the Aboriginal Heritage Act will ensure that significant aspects of Aboriginal history and culture relating to the period before European settlement are recorded and preserved. In this process the overlap between the European settlers and the Aboriginal people in the district will be noted where information is available.

People usually think of the word 'heritage' as relating only to old things. One difference between a History and the Heritage Inventory is that the Inventory can also reflect buildings and sites associated with present day activities in the area. The everyday events of today will become the history of tomorrow.

The Shire of Esperance appointed O'Brien Planning Consultants to assist with the compilation of their Inventory in the middle of 1994. The consultants worked in close liaison with the Heritage Council and their approach to the Heritage Inventory Process was formulated in close consultation with the Project Manager.

The Shire of Esperance Municipal Heritage Inventory is the result of many hours of researching and of recording information relating to a number of places in the Esperance district. This information will now be available to assist in sound decision making at a local government level in relation to those

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE MUNICIPAL HERITAGE INVENTORY Page 2

properties . The Inventory is the property of the Shire of Esperance and administration of any aspects relating to the Inventory is the realm of the local government.

It is important to stress the dynamic nature of the Municipal Heritage Inventory. This first edition lays the groundwork for the ongoing process of reviewing and updating the Inventory regularly. Material which has not been included in this initial document will be reviewed by a future review committee, and the work of identifying significant places to include on the Inventory will continue.

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2.1. OUTLINE OF THE APPROACH TAKEN TO THE PROJECT

The role of the consultants in the process of compiling the Shire of Esperance Municipal Heritage Inventory was to co-ordinate and guide the Local Government and community input, using the guidelines formulated by the Heritage Council. Involving the local community extensively in the process had a number of benefits:

Community enthusiasm and ownership of the project.

• A financial benefit, as much of the research and work involved in the project was done by local volunteers.

The process had nine (9) stages.

i) The Research Phase

• The consultants researched the history of the Esperance region, using the local history Esperance Yesterday and Today by John Rintoul and other resources available in the Battye Library.

• The consultants prepared a first draft of the Historical Overview and Thematic Framework Matrix, drawing together their research information.

• The consultants briefly researched information about places which had already been identified as having heritage value in the Esperance area, and they drew up a preliminary list from material which had previously been collected, either by the National Trust, the Heritage Council, the Shire of Esperance or by local interest groups in the area. This list provided the basis for the nomination phase of the Inventory process.

ii) Establishing the Community Committee

• A public invitation to participate in the process was circulated in the community.

• Letters were sent to a wide range of interest groups and individuals, asking for help and support for the project.

• A Steering Committee consisting of local people, Councillors and Senior Council Staff members was formed. They assisted in the selection of O'Brien Planning Consultants as the consultants to assist them compile the Inventory

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• At a public meeting on 7 September 1994 the consultants outlined the process to the Committee and other interested people. This meeting took the form of a Heritage Celebration held at the Civic Centre, at which local people were given the opportunity to reminisce about bygone days in Esperance. They were also asked to note those places in the district which they considered should be included on the Municipal Heritage Inventory.

iii) Finalising the Framework/Search Conference

• The first draft of the Thematic Framework was given to the Community Liaison Committee for comment, correction, and additions. A great deal of effort went into the Committee editing process and Jenny Allen, Don Voigt and Kayleen Freeman are to be commended on their contribution. In some cases the information they provided was, however, more detailed than is appropriate for this process. The consultants therefore edited the material further. All the additional information will be kept for future reference.

iv) The Nomination Phase

• A decision was made by the Community Committee and by the Shire of Esperance that owners would be encouraged to nominate their own properties rather than nominations coming from the general public. It was decided that the Committee would keep close control of the nomination process and would take joint responsibility for nominations.

• The preliminary list was made available, and the Committee set about preparing nomination forms for places and sites arising out of the framework. Guidelines about types of possible sites relating to the themes and sub themes in the Thematic Framework were available to the Committee.

v) Review and Assessment of Nominated Places

• The list of nominations was reviewed by the Committee and the consultants.

• Nominated places and sites were taken through an Assessment Process to establish relative importance of places, after which a list was created which became the Draft Municipal Inventory.

• Some additional places were nominated by individual members of the Committee after the initial assessment workshop. The consultants evaluated the nominations, and decided to include some places which were central to the history of Esperance. The other places,

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particularly the private residences, were not included at this stage. They will be researched and assessed by a full committee when the Inventory is reviewed at a later date.

• As there was a lot of interest in places which are no longer physically present, the decision was made to have a secondary list of historical sites which would have brief annotations about their significance in relation to the history of the Esperance district. Photographs of some of these former places were used to illustrate the thematic framework (historical overview).

vi) Draft Inventory

• The consultants prepared the Draft Inventory, based on the recommendations of the Committee as to which places should be included in the Draft Inventory.

vii) Advertise Draft Inventory/Call for Submissions

• Owners of nominated places were informed that their properties were listed on the Inventory prior to the advertising of the Draft Inventory. • The Draft Inventory was advertised. • Submissions on proposed entries were invited.

viii) Draft Approval by Council

• The Draft Inventory was submitted to Council for comments and amendments prior to the preparation of the Final Inventory.

ix) Preparation of Final Heritage Inventory

• The consultants prepared the final copy of the Municipal Heritage Inventory which then became the property of the Shire Council on behalf of the local community.

• A copy was sent to the Western Australian Heritage Council for public information.

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2.2 THE THEMATIC FRAMEWORK MATRIX AND HISTORICAL OVERVIEW

In preparing the Thematic Framework Matrix and the Historical Overview for the Shire of Esperance Municipal Heritage Inventory, the consultants followed the Heritage Council Guidelines and used the concept of a blank matrix which outlined themes through time on one level, corresponding to important time periods at another level.

The Thematic Framework addressed the following: • Important time periods for the area. • Why people settled. • How people moved, made a living and socialised together. • Community efforts and civic structures. * Outside influences. * People who left their mark on the history of the community.

The cut off dates between time periods were determined according to important events, for example the discovery of gold after 1892, and the depression in 1929. The thematic framework was not intended to be a definitive history of the area. The objective of the framework was to provide a brief yet comprehensive picture reflecting aspects of the history of the Shire of Esperance from its beginnings to the present. The major themes were enhanced by including a number of sub themes which portrayed the history of the Esperance area over time. For example, the theme of Community Efforts included descriptions of local government; education; law and order; community service and utilities; sport, recreation and entertainment; religion; cultural activities; institutions and environmental awareness.

The framework provided the indicators as to which significant places and sites in the Esperance area might be noted for inclusion in the Inventory. With the Thematic Framework providing the backdrop, the individual places and sites took on a contextual significance from the start of the process.

The matrix format of the framework was expanded into the Historical Overview, a concise, illustrated, historical narrative, elaborating on some of the aspects noted in the Matrix. This "potted history" can be a stand alone document, and may be useful beyond the Inventory process. We encourage its use for other communitiy activities and projects.

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE THEMATIC FRAMEWORK MATRIX C PERIOD 1792-1891 1892-1908 1909-1929 1930-19491950-1979 1976-1995 THEME/ EXPLORATION AND GOLD, POPULATION SURVIVAL DEPRESSION AND MODERN PROGRESS SUBTHEME SETTLEMENT RISES AND FALLS WORLD WAR II PIONEERS 1. DEMOGRAPHIC ell SETTLEMENT AND MOBILITY Why people settled Why they moved away The things they left behind Sub_theme(s) C 2. TRANSPORT AND 2 COMMUNICATIONS ID How people and goods moved How people communicated and exchanged information Sub_theme(s) 3. OCCUPATIONS What people didfor sustenance or to add quality to life; paid and unpaid labour Sub theme(s)

4. COMMUNITY EFFORTS What people did together as a community,-the issues that divided them; the structures they created to serve civic needs Sub_theme(s) I 5. OUTSIDE INFLUENCES: Events, decisions or changes which affected the community, but were beyond its control Sub_theme(s) 6. PEOPLE SHIRE OF ESPERANCE MUNICIPAL HERITAGE INVENTORY Page 8

2.3 THE COMMUNITY LIAISON COMMITTEE

The Heritage Act of 1990 clearly stated that the Heritage Inventory was to be compiled with community consultation. The Shire of Esperance representatives identified a number of individuals, community groups and associations who might have been interested in participating in the process. After advertising the project, a meeting was held and a Community Committee or Working Group was formed by those people who were keen to assist in the process.

The Committee played an essential role in the collection of information for the Inventory process, and O'Brien Planning Consultants would like to congratulate them and thank them for the enormous amount of effort and knowledge that went into preparing the material for the Draft Inventory report.

At its meeting in September 1993, Council resolved to advertise in the local press seeking expressions of interest for membership of a Steering Committee to guide the Inventory process. Twelve (12) applications were received Seven (7) of the applicants were invited to join the committee together with two (2) Councillors and two (2) Senior Council Staff members. The first meeting of the Committee was held on 22 December 1993.

It took a little while for the members to familiarise themselves with the necessary prodedures and in March 1994 expressions of interest were called for the preparation of the Inventory. Twelve (12) consultants sought the commission. At its meeting in April 1994, Council adopted the recommendation of the Committee and appointed O'Brien Planning consultants to prepare the document.

In September 1994, Val O'Brien and Cathy Day visited Esperance to conduct a public meeting (Heritage Celebration) and liaise with the Committee. As a result, definitive tasks were set and a number of Committee meetings were held to compile the necessary information requiredfor the Draft Inventory.

In March 1995, Val and Cathy re-visited Esperance to conduct a workshop with the Committee and collate all the gathered information. The committee met on two (2) further occasions to fine tune the Thematic Framework and complete the assessment of Place Record Forms for compilation of the Draft Inventory. In these regards the work of Committee members Jenny Allen, Don Voigt and Kayleen Freeman needs to be highlighted

For various reasons, five (5) members of the original Committee were not involved with the final preparation of the Draft document, however their able replacements ensured a most satisfactory result.

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2.3 THE COMMUNITY LIAISON COMMITTEE

The Heritage Act of 1990 clearly stated that the Heritage Inventory was to be compiled with community consultation. The Shire of Esperance representatives identified a number of individuals, community groups and associations who might have been interested in participating in the process. After advertising the project, a meeting was held and a Community Committee or Working Group was formed by those people who were keen to assist in the process.

The Committee played an essential role in the collection of information for the Inventory process, and O'Brien Planning Consultants would like to congratulate them and thank them for the enormous amount of effort and knowledge that went into preparing the material for the Draft Inventory report.

At its meeting in September 1993, Council resolved to advertise in the local press seeking expressions of interest for membership of a Steering Committee to guide the Inventory process. Twelve (12) applications were received Seven (7) of the applicants were invited to join the committee together with two (2) Councillors and two (2) Senior Council Staff members. The first meeting of the Committee was held on 22 December 1993.

It took a little while for the members to familiarise themselves with the necessary procedures and in March 1994 expressions of interest were called for the preparation of the Inventory. Twelve (12) consultants sought the commission. At its meeting in April 1994, Council adopted the recommendation of the Committee and appointed O'Brien Planning Consultants to prepare the document.

In September 1994, Val O'Brien and Cathy Day visited Esperance to conduct a public meeting (Heritage Celebration) and liaise with the Committee. As a result, definitive tasks were set and a number of Committee meetings were held to compile the necessary information requiredfor the Draft Inventory.

In March 1995, Val and Cathy re-visited Esperance to conduct a workshop with the Committee and collate all the gathered information. The committee met on two (2) further occasions to fine tune the Thematic Framework and complete the assessment of Place Record Forms for compilation of the Draft Inventory. In these regards the work of Committee members Jenny Alien, Don Voigt and Kayleen Freeman needs to be highlighted

For various reasons, five (5) members of the original Committee were not involved with the final preparation of the Draft document, however their able replacements ensured a most satisfactory result.

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2.4 PUBLIC PARTICIPATION

The broader public was invited to be part of the Inventory process in a range of ways. Once the Committee had been formed, planning began for the Heritage Party.

On 7 September 1994 a group of residents came together for an evening function hosted by the Shire of Esperance. The Committee, Shire officials, Councillors and a group of residents enjoyed an evening of reminiscing about old times and places. They also learned more about the Inventory process and how they could make a contribution to the process. The Heritage Celebration set a very positive and celebratory tone for the next phase of the process, the nomination phase, and the Committee generally met with a positive response when they approached people about nominating their properties.

The Committee took joint responsibility for nominating places to be researched for the Inventory. They proceeded according to a preliminary list which was drawn by the consultants after extensive consultation. The nomination period continued for a number of weeks, during which time the Committee put an enormous amount of energy into recording information about places, buildings and sites onto the nomination forms.

2.5 THE ASSESSMENT PHASE

The Committee set about the task of preparing nomination forms in a systematic and methodical way.

Using material based on the Buna Charter and on the Heritage Council's criteria for assessment of places for inclusion on the State Register, an assessment form was prepared. The aim of the form was to allow a comparison of places, using a standard set of criteria. This would allow the places on the list to be assigned a value rating of perceived significance to the community. Such an evaluation, although subjective, could be useful in the event of decisions needing to be made about places on the Inventory.

Working in two groups, the Committee worked through the nomination forms, asking a series of questions for each place. The 'yes' or 'no' responses were recorded and points allocated according to the responses. Using a simple scoring system, it became possible to compare score values of the different places. There was a group of particularly significant places which scored around 90 per cent, while the others ranged widely in score. The Committee found that using the form made assessing the merit of the places relatively easy, and they were pleased at the outcome of the assessment workshop.

After the assessment, the group realised that there were still a few more places worthy of inclusion. These were researched and added to the final Inventory List.

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2.5.1 Summary of Committee Assessment Process

61 places were selected for inclusion in this first edition of the Shire of Esperance Municipal Heritage Inventory.

24 places were listed as Historic Sites

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SHIRE OF ......

MUNICIPAL HERITAGE INVENTORY ASSESSMENT FORM 0

NAME OF PLACE ......

NO OF PLACE

I. AESTHETIC VALUE C • Is it significant in exhibiting particular aesthetic characteristics valued by the community? U

• Does it have townscape, strcetscapc or landscape value? U • Is it charactei ised by unity of material, design, scale or enhancement of its setting? U 2. HISTORIC VALUE • Is it significant iii the evolution or pattern of thc history for the community? U • Does it have any strong associations with any well known figures, development, events U or cultural heritage phases? 0 3. SCIENTIFIC VALUE

• Does it demonstrate potential to yield infonnatiomi that will contribute to all understanding of the natural or built/historical value of the place? rl • Does it constitute a high degree of technical innovation or achievement for the research or educational purposes? 0 0

4. SOCIAL VALUE Is it significant through association with a community or cultural group lbr social, LI cultural, educational or spiritual reasons? 0 S. RARITY • Does it dcnioumstrate rare, uncommon or endangered aspects of the cultural heritage? Li • Is it a particularly line or unique example of its type? U • Does it demonstrate a way of life, custom, process or function no longer practised, in El 0 danger of being lost or of exceptional interest?

6. REPRESENTATIVENESS

• Is it significant in demonstrating the characteristics of a class of cultural heritage places? • Does it represent any particular period of cultural heritage development? 0 7, LEVEL OF SIGNIFICANCE • Is it significant for the local community? LI

• Is it significant for the state community? LI Is it significant for the national community? U 0 • Is it significant for the international coinnmunity? U 0

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Municipal Heritage Inventory

ASSESSMENT GRADING SHEET

POINTS o POINTS 17 7 100 9 5 48 16 7 98 9 4 46 16 6 96 8 7 44 15 7 94 8 6 42 15 5 90 8 5 40 14 7 88 8 4 38 14 6 86 8 3 36 14 5 84 7 7 34 13 7 82 7 6 32 13 6 80 7 5 30 13 5 78 7 4 28 12 7 76 7 3 26 12 6 74 6 6 24 12 5 72 6 5 22 12 4 70 6 4 20 11 7 68 6 3 18 11 6 66 6 2 16 11 5 64 5 5 14 11 4 62 5 4 12 10 7 60 5 3 Ii 10 6 58 5 2 10 10 5 56 4 4 9 10 4 54 4 3 8 9 7 52 4 2 7 9 6 50 3 3 6 3 2 5 2 2 4 2 1 3 1 1 2

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The Shire of Esperance

MUNICIPAL HERITAGE INVENTORY

by

O'Brien Planning Consultants Suite 23/1 Rokeby Road P0 Box 1136 SUBIACO WA 6008 Tel: 388 2308 Fax: 388 2327

June 1996 I CONTENTS

Page

1. Introduction 1

2. The Period 1792- 1891 Exploration and Settlement 1

3. The Period 1892 - 1908 Gold, Population Rises and Falls 14

4. The Period 1909 - 1929 Survival 29

5. The Period 1930 - 1949 Depression and Second World War 18

6. The Period 1950 - 1979 Modem Pioneers 31

7. The Period 1980 - 1995 Progress 49

8. Thematic Framework Matrix 54

9. List of Subthemes and Site Types 55

10. Bibliography 61

Front Cover The Newtown Jetty

Page Photograph 1: A drystone fireplace on Middle Island 3 Photograph 2: The wreck of the Penguin 4 Photograph 3: The Dempster Homestead 8 Photograph 4: Andrew Dempster, founder of Esperance 9 Photograph 5: Ruins of Fanny Cove Homestead 10 Photograph 6: A wool press at Lynburn Station 11 Photograph 7: The ruins of the Second Telegraph Station 16 Photograph 8: The Bijou Theatre 19 Photograph 9: The First Esperance School 20 Photograph 10: The Wesleyan Church 22 Photograph 11: Esperance Bay Jetty 24 Photograph 12: Dempster Street in 1898 25 Photograph 13: The Dempster woolshed at Wheatfield Lake 27 Photograph 14: Bayview 28 Photograph 15: Grass Patch Farm Homestead 30 Photograph 16: The Salmon Gums Hotel 30 Photograph 17: Harvesting salt at Pink Lake 31 Photograph 18: The first salt shed, and the crushing engine 31 Photograph 19: Bags of Pink Lake salt 32 Photograph 20: Loading the salt at the Esperance Jetty 32 Photograph 21: Building the Grass Patch Hotel 34 Photograph 22: At the opening of the Grass Patch Store 35 Photograph 23 Gibson Soak Hotel 36 Photograph 24: Esperance townsite in the mid 1950s 38 Photograph 25: The War Memorial built c 1924 39 Photograph 26: Central Esperance in the 1950s 41 Photograph 27: The New Tanker Jetty 42 Photograph 28: The Esperance Primary School 45 Photograph 29: The Sinclair House 47 Photograph 30: Elston's Bazaar and Stationery Shop 47 Photograph 31: The Civic Centre 50 Photograph 32: The Esperance Shire Council Administration Centre 51 Photograph 33: The Ten Mile Lagoon Wind Farm 51 Photograph 34 The Norfolk Island Pine Trees 52 FOREWORD from the Committee

We would like to acknowledge the work of John Rintoul in his publication Esperance - Yesterday and Today. His research has provided a basis for the planning of a Thematic Matrix and Historical Overview of the economic development of Esperance and surrounding districts.

We would also like to thank the Shire of Esperance's Municipal Heritage Inventory Steering Committee who have added to, and amended the information used in the Draft Thematic Matrix and Historical Overview owing to more detailed information made available through records and first hand knowledge.

The Committee acknowledges the services of Helen Burgess, Archival Research Officer, Heritage Council, for information concerning Esperance's early hospitals obtained from The Esperance Chronicle, 1896, Government Gazettes, 1895, 1929, The Esperance Echo, 1929, and Story of Kwinana, 1960.

The Committee has referred to Rica Erickson's • text The Dempsters for information concerning the Dempste?s involvement in Esperance's early development. The history of Esperance's early schools was provided through the publication I Remember compiled by Louise Gray. Information on the development of the Mallee area was provided through a family history by Kayleen Freeman and from The Esperance Echo, 1928, 1929. The historical development of the 1 950s onwards was provided through the text Esperance: Stories of The Modern Pioneers compiled by the Esperance Branch of The Fellowship of Australian Writers.

The Committee has been assisted by the research of member Don Voigt, a local historian/photographer, for his forthcoming publication on Esperance's history as shown by early photographs. Of assistance, too, was a comprehensive collection of newspaper articles, references, and notes on Esperance's history by Thelma Daniell, an Esperance writer and poet. Pat Daniell has been responsible for photographing selected town buildings. Jenny Florisson and Roger Robertson have photographed historic homestead sites. Committee members and local residents have supplied personal photographs for reproduction.

Representatives from the Esperance Shire Council, Councillors Brian Pearce (Chairman), Ray Croker (Deputy Chairman), Barry Sponberg, Neville Mulgat, and Dave Pope have provided valuable assistance. Jenny Allen has collated and documented the information for the revised Historical Overview. Other Committee members who provided valuable contributions were - Andy Dunn, Val Savage, Stephen Bradley, Nancy Shearer, and Vince Daw (deceased). The draft report was edited by Andy Dunn, Don Voigt, Jenny Allen, Barry Sponberg, DOLA, Jenny Florisson, Roger Robertson, Kayleen Freeman, and Dane Pope.

June 1996 SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 1

Over the years Esperance has had a very chequered pattern of development. People arrived in the district with high expectations and their hopes were dashed on numerous occasions. Today the region is thriving. Economic development shows great diversification being successfully supported by agriculture, light industry, commercial fishing, wind power for electricity supply, tourism, and the port, which is used for exporting a wide range of goods, including wheat and iron ore. It is to the credit of the pioneers that they faced times of hardship and stayed to develop an area of promise.

[2.The Period 1792 - 1891 Exploration and Seirlement

The early visits by French explorers to the south western shores of Australia have left a legacy of French names for identification of geographical features and locations. In 1792 Raymond Joseph de Bruni and Chevalier d'Entrecasteaux in the ship La Recherche, along with Huon de Kermadec in the ship L'Esperance, were sent to search for the scientific expedition led by La Perouse which had disappeared after leaving Botany Bay. Sailing the Southern Ocean and buffeted by a storm they sought refuge. A young seaman, Ensign Le Grand, was keeping watch and guided the ship L'Esperance into the shelter of an island, Ile Observatoire, (Observatory Island). Cape Le Grand was named after him. Esperance Bay and the Recherche Archipelago take their names from the two ships.

The Aboriginal name for the general area of Esperance was Gabba-Kyle (Gabi-Kyley, Gabba-Kyli), 'a place where the water lies in the shape of a boomerang'. The French saw some Aborigines (Wudjari tribe) on the mainland but made no contact.

The information given in the journal of botanist Jacques de la Billardiere (1792) is as follows, 'our people saw, at a small distance some savages, with whom, however, any communication was impossible, for they always fled whenever our people offered to approach them'. 'We saw smoke of native fires some distance apart from each other'.'

During the exploratory coastal expedition Claude Riche wandered away in his quest for botanical specimens and fresh water. He climbed a hill and camped for the night at a 'pink coloured' lake (Pink Lake, official name, Lake Spencer). He was sighted on a shore line hill just as the boat which was sent to look for him was returning to the ship. His sighting of a kangaroo and observation of the footprints of an emu and 'large dog' were recorded in La Billardiere's journal. Cape Riche is named after the French Naturalist. Unfortunately Riche did not live long enough to write about his discoveries. Although the French did not find fresh water on the coast, La Billardiere found a small trickle on one of the islands. Aboriginal knowledge of watering places was to prove useful for future settlers.

The next visitors also came by chance. In 1802 rough weather forced Captain ' ship, The Investigator, to take shelter in a bay, now known as Lucky Bay. Flinders had been charting the southern coastline. The botanist, Robert Brown,

'Voyage in search of La Perouse. La Billardiere's Journal, 1792.

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travelling on the ship, took specimens from Middle Island and what is now Cape Le Grand National Park. The expedition walked as far as a high rocky hill which became known as Frenchman's Peak, because of its resemblance to a cocked hat. Another rocky outcrop was named Mount Ragged (Rugged) due to its appearance when Flinders viewed it from his ship.

From the 1820s onwards the Islands of the Archipelago became the destination of whalers and seaters from as far away as Tasmania and America who searched the southern oceans for their lucrative trade, harpooning whales for meat and the bi- products. Seals were taken for meat and fur. This was the first industry to use the islands and beaches around Esperance. Thousands of seal skins were sent to the Eastern States and overseas. The kangaroo was also hunted for meat and skins. The men took advantage of the mainland Aboriginal women, forcing them to reside on the islands. Some Aboriginal women may have been brought from the scalers' camp on the islands around Tasmania.

One visitor and settler on Middle Island was John Anderson, (nicknamed Black Jack) who has a legend of piracy. The remains of a stone house and well on the island are attributed to him and the house was used in later times. He was a formidable man who carried a brace of pistols, threatening and stealing from those with whom he came in contact. In 1835, along with Isaac Winterbourne, he was charged with stealing money belonging to James Manning, a sealer working with Anderson, and James Newell, who had been shipwrecked at Thistle Cove.

Aware of the loss of a local industry to the enterprising Americans and the Eastern colonies, moves were made to establish Western Australian whaling. The Whaling Company was set up in 1837. It ceased in 1839 as it was running at a loss.

Captain Thomas Sherratt commenced whaling in the 1840s, operating from Albany. Many years later he opened a whaling/fishing processing plant at the Thomas Estuary at Cape Arid, using the services of John Thomas's whaling boat at Cheynes Beach. Later there was a decline in the use of whale fat for candle making owing to the discovery of oil and the introduction of kerosene lamps.

Edward John Eyre, along with his Aboriginal companion Wylie, were the next explorers of the Esperance area, having travelled overland from Adelaide. In 1841 they met Captain Rossiter of the 'Mississipi' at a bay now named Rossiter Bay.

Further exploration of the region from Cape Riche to Russell Range was made in 1848 by the Surveyor-General, Lieutenant James Septimus Roe and his party. They took an Aboriginal guide with them known as Bob. Roe was looking specifically for coal deposits. He was responsible for naming Mount Ridley, Peak Charles and Peak Eleanora. Mt Ney was named after one of their horses which was lost and then found. This expedition also visited Mt Ragged, situated about twenty five miles west north- west of which had been described by Captain Matthew Flinders.

Other sites named by Roe included Howick Hill, Mount Hawes and Mount Merivale, the latter named after one of the Under Secretaries of State for the Colonies. He further named rivers, Gage River, Stokes Inlet, , Young River, Fitzgerald

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 3

Photograph 1: Remains of a drystone fireplace on Middle Island, used by whalers and seaters, built c 1835.

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY -THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 4

- ---.-

Photograph 1: The waters off Middle Island are the last resting place of the wrecked steamer, the Penguin (1920).

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 5

River, Phillips River, Cuiham Inlet, the last two named after 'Squire' Phillips of 'Cuiham', Toodyay. 2 Roe reported unfavourably on the region as being suitable for settlement.

In April 1863, the Dempster brothers, Edward and William, along with Lanarch and George Maxwell, sailed from Albany and landed at Point Malcolm. Maxwell went back to Albany but the rest of the party continued to Esperance Bay. Andrew settled in at Esperance Bay, reporting favourably on the condition of his 500 head of stock which had been shipped from South Australia. By 1868 the sheep stock numbered 5,000. A dry stone well was built by the Dempsters for watering stock. Aboriginal shepherds were used to keep the livestock together.

In 1870 the Dempsters were visited by John and Alexander Forrest who were accompanied by a group including Tommy Windich and Billy Noongale, two experienced Aboriginal trackers and guides. At the time of their visit in 1870 Mr Campbell Taylor was developing some property on the Oldfield River. Continuing on the Forrests camped at the Mainbenup (Mambenup) homestead of the Dempsters, before calling at Andrew Dempster's house at Esperance Bay. During the Forrest's visit a 40 acre homestead site for the Dempsters was surveyed.3

The party followed the known route back to Israelite Bay passing the northern coastal hills through to Cape Arid. Israelite Bay is said to take its name from the Aboriginal practice of circumcision which Europeans associated with the lost tribes of Israel.

In 1871 Alexander Forrest and a party set out for the interior eastward of the settled districts to advance beyond the Hampton . Tommy Windich again accompanied the party, and other Aborigines were bribed to join in, as they were needed to help find watering places. However, on two occasions they ran off during the night.

The expedition was more perilous than the one taken the year before because of new terrain covered, lack of water, and the numerous salt lakes which the members of the expedition had to find a way around. The party eventually rested at the Dempster's small homestead at Esperance Bay before travelling back to York, via the Arthur River across less difficult country. 'I (Refer to Figure 1 page 6).

2Journal of John Septimus Roe (1848). 3Journal of John Forrest (1870). 4Journal of Alexander Forrest (1871) extract from Inquirer and Commercial News, Dec 27th, 187 1.

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A small, square, wattle and daub house was built as the first homestead for James Dempster in 1872. When Andrew decided to make Esperance Bay his home a stonemason was employed to extend the house and to build a woolshed using boulder limestone and a plaster mix using seashells. James supervised construction of the house and woolshed which were completed in 1876. The house has survived and is presently the office of David Wordsworth. The woolshed was demolished in the late 1960s.

By 1872 Campbell Taylor had established 'Lynburn' on the Thomas River. In 1872/3 Alexander and John Moir had settled at Fanny Cove while Stephen and William Ponton, along with John Sharp, passed through Esperance Bay and settled at Point Malcolm and Pine Hill. The Pontons built a small stone house, which was extended in 1889.

The Brooks family settled at Point Malcolm in 1874. Their family had failed in their dairy venture in Victoria and were attracted by glowing accounts of good grazing country in Western Australia. To help financially, their son, John Paul, became a linesman on the telegraph line from 1877 until 1883. As a Government employee he was forced to relinquish all leases he had taken in the Lake Lefroy region. In 1883 John Paul found a water hole and grassy pasture north of Mt Ragged and settled there with his mother. They named the property Balbinya. His sister, Sarah Theresa, remained at Israelite Bay until the early 1900s. She collected botanical specimens for Baron Von Mueller, the director of Melbourne's Botanical Gardens. Hakea Brooksiana and Scaevola Brooksiana are named after her.5

The construction of the telegraph line from 1875 to 1877 through roadless country was a great feat. When it reached Esperance in September 1876 the settlers welcomed the link with the outside world. A repeater station, a small weatherboard building, was constructed to house the equipment. The first stationmaster was Mr G P Stevens, a 17 year old youth from Toodyay.

The schooner 'Mary Ann' berthed at Esperance with the necessary instruments and batteries for connecting up the completed line. In 1876 the 'Mary Ann' was wrecked on Bellinger Island which became known as the Mary Ann Haven, and is now known as Hopetoun. The Telegraph Station was located at Israelite Bay where a substantial stone building was later erected during the upgrade of the line and repeater stations in 1895/96.

During the time the line was being brought to Esperance, Tommy Windich became ill and was nursed by Mrs Ben Hannett at the Dempster Homestead where he died. He was buried by Ben Hannett in coasthills near the camping ground..

Written communication in the Esperance region was limited owing to the infrequency of ships bringing supplies from Adelaide and Melbourne. Letters to relatives in Western Australia were often sent via Albany, using the services of the whale boats. Owing to the lack of a jetty, provisions were ferried ashore by small boats. The position was improved when a jetty was built in 1895, at James Street. Land travel via cattle tracks, was slow, whether by camel, horse, carriage, cart or bullock wagon.

5S Brooks. A trip into the Australian Desert. People and Plants in Australia.

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 8

Photograph 3: The Dempster Homestead, in Dempster Street. Built in 1876, this building replaced a wattle and daub house on the property. Photo c 1894.

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY -THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 9

Photograph 4: Andrew Dempster, the founder of Esperance.

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9 S SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY -THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 11.

Photograph 6: A wool press at Lynburn Station, established by Campbell-Taylor in the 1870s.

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O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS

SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 13

In the early days of settlement it was left to the station managers to enforce the law. After the death of John Moir in 1878, the first Police Station was set up in 1879. Andrew Dempster had tendered to build the station which was in a similar style to the Dempster homestead, using local limestone. Police Constables Truslove and McGlade and Lance Corporal Coppin were appointed.

They arrested an Aboriginal man, Tampin, and sent him to Albany on the cutter 'Lily'. Aboriginal prisoners were chained together and given blankets to cover their naked bodies. An Aboriginal guard, recruited to look after them, was given a police uniform. In 1880 the Police were involved in a murder charge. The Aboriginal Yungulla was charged with the murder of John Dunn of Cocanarup Station and sent to Albany for trial. In 1881 the Police were involved in taking a census of the whole district which extended from Bremer Bay to Eucla.

In 1889 two teenage boys, Fred and Thomas Andrews from Albany were left on Middle Island by their father to farm the salt of the brine lake there. They lived there for nine months.

The scattered population did not allow for much interaction. Religious education and studies were taught by members of private households. Andrew Dempster's children were sent to Adelaide for their education. Mrs Bostock, who came as a bride to Esperance in 1890, taught a non-denominational Sunday School. At this time there were only six women living at Esperance. Mrs Bostock, Mrs Hannett, Mrs Doust, Mrs Sinclair, Mrs McGlade and Mrs Truslove, the latter two being the wives of the policemen. The only social event was the Annual Shearer's Ball which marked the end of the shearing season.

In 1894 the only town buildings at Esperance Bay were the Telegraph Office, which also received mail, the Police Station and Lockup (McGlade and Truslove), Dempster's house and woolshed (G H Bostock as Manager), and the houses of Laurie Sinclair and Ben Hannet. Farm workers lived in tents and make-do shelters. George Burns Scott was another pioneer farmer of the 1890s who enjoyed the challenge of establishing a property.

An unusual settler was William Vincent who had been sent to the southern coast by his aristocratic family because of his unacceptable behaviour of keeping company with undesirable women. He lived as a recluse and was identified as a kangaroo hunter.

1890 was a significant year for the Esperance district because in that year gold was discovered in Dundas by Mr Moir. This, along with the subsequent gold finds in Coolgardie/, sparked a rush of people to the region and became a catalyst for rapid development in the town of Esperance.

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 14

[3. The Period 1892 - 1908 Gold, Population Rises arid Falls

In 1890 William Moir found gold while searching for pastoral country. However, he was not so fortunate when he returned with Mr Stennet from the Dundas Hills in 1892. It was left to others to find rich reefs. In 1892 the Coolgardie goldfield was declared open and in 1893 Hannan discovered gold at Kalgoorlie. The discovery of gold in the Kalgoorlie/Coolgardie district instigated a major period of development for Esperance.

In 1894 a local resident, Laurence Sinclair, had been visiting the Coolgardie Goldfields. On his return to Esperance he stopped to visit his brother George and a friend Jack Allsop, who were working around the Dundas Hills in search of gold. On 13 August 1894 Sinclair and AlIsop lodged their claim after successfully finding gold. On the same day Ramsay, Talbot, and John Goodliffe discovered gold at nearby 'Mount Barker'. Sinclair's find was attributed to his horse pawing the ground and as a consequence he named the place, Norseman, after his horse.

Travel to the goldfields from Esperance involved many resting places, and Lake View, Gibson's Soak, Scaddan, Grass Patch and Salmon Gums became favourite watering holes. Gibson's Soak could provide fresh spring water but the rest only provided condensed water. Wayside Inns were established at Gibson's Soak, Grass Patch and Salmon Gums.

In 1896 John McDonald built a warehouse and shed on Lot 68 Edward Street in the townsite and applied to set up condensers twenty miles apart for servicing horses, wagons and drays. A cartage service to cart wood to operate the condensers was also planned. Travel was by foot, bicycle, Cobb and Co, wagon, horse, or by camel. A local resident reported that four hundred men, having arrived by ship from the eastern states, were camping on the beaches before setting out for the goldfields. With more ships arriving, the treacherous coast and tempestuous seas claimed its victims. In 1894, when the 'Rondondo' foundered, passengers were rescued and eventually taken to Point Malcolm.

The closeness of Esperance to the goldfields revealed the potential to develop Esperance as a major port and provide entry for a road to the goldfields. On 15 December 1893, the townsite of Esperance was declared under the chairmanship of G H Bostock of the Dundas and Esperance Roads Board. The townsite was surveyed by R Brazier and Lots 1-42 were established. The Police Station was on Lot 29. On 27 September 1895 Esperance was gazetted as a Municipality, with an elected Mayor. The Esperance Roads Board was separate.6

Thomas Edwards, a civil engineer who had arrived in 1893, was elected the Mayor of Esperance. The municipal meetings were held at the Pier Hotel. Council rates were one shilling and threepence in the pound with a Health rate of threepence. Contracts were arranged for footpaths and employment of 'the night watchman' to empty the 'nightsoil'. Mr H C Sims was the Town Clerk and later formed a company selling town blocks.

6Govemment Gazette WA September 27, 1895. March 13, 1896, March 27. 1896.

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 15

The Municipal Offices were built in Andrew Street. The Council Chambers opened in June 1896 were also used by the Esperance Roads Board for meetings. After 1898 the building was used as a Court House.

The Post and Telegraph Office was commenced in 1895 and the building was in operation by early 1896. It was a substantial granite building with wide verandahs. It replaced the small weatherboard and tin structure which had served as the Telegraph Repeater Station in 1876. A Norfolk Island pine tree (Araucaria heterophylla) was planted in front of it. The building was pulled down in the 1960s, but the pine tree has survived, growing to a great girth and height. Rows of Norfolk Island pine trees were planted over a period of time up until the 1920/30s. These can be seen along the foreshore of The Esplanade and in the parallel street, Dempster Street. Norfolk Island pine trees have been planted on coastal lands because they provided land marks for ships at sea.

The town's residential area was known as East Locations. Some small houses remain but they have been extensively altered, with attempts at preserving the characteristics of the old buildings not always successful.

With the development of the town's business area and the rush to the goldfields, accommodation was available in four hotels, the Pier, the Royal, the Esperance, and the Grace Darling. There were also two boarding houses, Sea View Guest House in Edward Street and the Metropolitan. The building used by Peek and Castine (merchants) was incorporated into the Pier Hotel in 1897.

John Purchas owned the single storey Esperance Store and Hotel, built in 1893. A new two-storey hotel was built in 1896, which had 55 beds and included a saloon bar and billiard room. Purchas may have had prior knowledge of what was to come for he sold out in 1898 to John Coleman, with Chas E Cranston as publican. He moved to Ravensthorpe, where he built a hotel.

During the winter/spring of 1897 the Municipal Council planted many trees such as the Norfolk Pines and Moreton Bay Figs A government financed town jetty was finished in 1895 and extended in 1896-98. Timber from one of the old jetties has been used for a fence erected in 1929 between The Old Hospital and a house situated in Dempster Street.

A bonded store was built in 1895 and extended in 1896 to 1898 for more goods storage. Its usefulness was further fulfilled with the advent of the railway.

With many of the hotels developing into two-storey buildings it was suggested that there was a need for a Fire Station. There was talk of ropes hanging from upper storeys so that people could lower themselves down if a fire occurred. (Two hotels were later to suffer the fate of being burnt down. The Pier Hotel was burnt down in 1910 and the Esperance Hotel was destroyed by fire in 1953).

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPFRANCE HERITACE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 16

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Photograph 7: The ruins of the Second Telegraph Station, built in 1895/96. Photo 1983.

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A Fire Brigade engine, brought on the schooner, Grace Darling, was installed in premises in Andrew Street in 1898. The Fire Brigade building was between the Municipal Offices and the Institute building. The building (a hall) was later moved to Lots 34 and 35 in Dempster Street. A clock in the Bonded Store of the Esperance Land Co/Hampton Co was donated to the Esperance Municipal Council for the Fire Station tower to be built on Lot 19. With all the moving of the building over the years the clock was taken down and parts of it were disposed of in 1960.

The 'Esperance Chronicle' commenced publication in 1895. In 1896, a rival paper, the 'Esperance Times', was set up and both papers published bi-weekly, Wednesdays and Saturdays. The progress of the port of Esperance was widely reported. Esperance was no longer only for pastoralists. The Dempsters had connections with the Northam and Toodyay areas and some of the merchants who came to Esperance were previously in business in those areas. Other merchants arrived from the Eastern states. F J Daw came from Maitland in South Australia. Many merchants advertised in one or both papers.

The discovery of gold at Kalgoorlie/Coolgardie and Norseman was responsible for inflated land prices. The earlier settlers saw the opportunity to make money on the land they owned. Hannett advised the auctioneer to sell some of his land at the Government reserve price of twenty pounds per block. Some town blocks were sold at sixty pounds. In 1897 W F Poole was associated with a plan of the town.

In 1895 Dr E Black was appointed as the Resident Magistrate and Medical Officer of the local Board of Health. He dealt with minor criminal offences. Dr Dennis was appointed as Health Officer in March 1896.

Esperance had been promoted as being a healthy place in which to live but in November 1895 a case of typhoid was reported. Charles Henry Staker, a labourer from South Australia, had only been in Esperance for three weeks. He died at the age of 26 years and with a registered number three was buried in Plot 20. A second man's death from typhoid followed, that of 34 year old Henry Mauder, a watchmaker from Torquay, England. The residence in which both men had stayed was pulled down, under instructions from Dr Black. The undertaker for the burials was John Winfield, the local builder. The original cemetery was located on ground which is the present Esperance Football Club's grounds. (Fourteen graves were dug up in 1897 and removed to the present cemetery when the original cemetery land was vested to the Cricket Association.)

The two deaths gave the impetus for a deputation to Dr Black for consideration of a new hospital. The hospital was to replace the temporary use of a wooden building, the Residency, being used to house the typhoid patients. In March 1896 a deputation of townspeople asked Dr Black to communicate the need for a hospital to the Government. Funds for the hospital were also raised through the giving of a 'grand instrumental and vocal concert'. Town Lot 202 was made available for the hospital site.7

7Government Gazette, WA January 17th, 1896, p.56.

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 18

A contract for building the hospital was advertised in May 1896. Dr Black was involved in preparing the plans for the small hospital with additional beds to be provided at an hour's notice, in two large tents to be fitted on jarrah frameworks. The small hospital was to form the nucleus of a larger hospital on Town Lot 202. With Government money of two hundred pounds and donations of fifty pounds, tenders were called. J Winfield was awarded the tender and the hospital was completed in July 1896.

In 1896 Edward James McCarthy, the successful manager of the Esperance and Adelaide Land Company, paid the higher land prices being sought in order to build a two-storey shop and dwelling, a theatre, and another dwelling on the corner of William and Dempster Street. The Bijou Theatre opened in September 1896. In October of that year Warner's Merry Moments Theatre Company visited Esperance and performers included vocalists from England and and the local pianist, Mr C Jones. The theatre was also used as a meeting hall for local discussions and as a hall for the Agriculture Show.

Community activities in 1896 included the Esperance Sports and Entertainment Week. Events consisted of competitive bicycle riding to and from Norseman, children's sporting events, a Grand Ball, a cricket match against Norseman and New Year's Day horse races.

A Tennis Club was formed in 1896 and a tennis court was built in 1897 at the Cricket Oval. The Cricket Association was operational in 1896 and in the same year the Esperance Bay Turf Club held an Annual General Meeting. Esperance had a football club and by 1898 the Esperance Football Association had been formed.

The first police station continued to be manned by Constable Truslove. In 1896 Corporal John Thomas McAtee became Sergeant along with the appointment of Constable Lynch. The Court House came into use (formerly the Council Offices building) where all local cases were heard.

In January 1891 an application was sent to the Board of Education for the establishment of a school. John Michael Davis was appointed as School Teacher. Parents were informed that no money was available for the building of a school and schoolwork was conducted at the Dempster homestead. In 1894 Mr Bostock, manager of the Dempster estate, informed the Central Board of Education that a man from Adelaide, a Dr Baker, intended to open a school. The school was conducted in a small room on Block 2, owned by Mr F J Daw (now approximately on the site of the National Bank).

The number of pupils increased and school lessons continued in a larger corrugated iron room (nearer Post Office). Use of this room ceased when the building was sold to Mr Sinclair who wanted to set up a private school. Meanwhile approval had been given for the building of a school and this was completed by C F Layton for the Public Works Department in January 1896 (now RSL headquarters).

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 19

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Photograph 8: The Bijou Theatre, a feature of Esperance since 1896. (Photo 1995)

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 20

Photograph 9: This building began life as a school in 1896, and was taken over by the Esperance Municipal Council and was shared with the Roads Board until the Municipality was cancelled in 1908.

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPFRANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 21

By November 1896 enrolments had risen to 105 and the Department decided to build a new school on the Recreation Ground (Lots 104-110). The new school opened in 1897 with Thomas Hart as the first Headmaster. School buildings were non existent in the outlying areas between Esperance and Norseman as the Malice district only had a sparse population until the 1920s. Salmon Gums acquired a school building in 1927 from Norseman.

The first Anglican church services held in Esperance in 1896 were conducted by the Reverend Alfred Burton in Daws' shop in Andrew Street. A karri framed building, clad with corrugated iron and lined with matchboard was built and the first service was conducted in March 1896. The original building was extended in December 1896 and a rectory was built with similar materials. The old church was demolished in 1966 after the new church was built in 1962. The rectory was demolished in 1995 and has been replaced by a new brick and tile Parish Hall. The small church hail on the site was demolished in late 1995.

The Wesleyan Church opened in March 1897. This building is now situated in Museum Park.

For the development of Esperance Bay to occur two essential projects needed consideration. The first was for the enlargement of port facilities and the second was the link by rail to the goldfields, via Norseman.

In 1896 a public meeting was held to discuss the attitude of the Government and their opposition to the railway from Esperance to Norseman. A second objective was to petition the Government to make an immediate survey of the harbour. In 1897 a survey was carried out by J W Combe RN, of the 1-IIvIS 'Waterwitch' (Fig 3).

With the growth of the town, earlier buildings came into use for other purposes. The Mechanics Institute (library) requested the use of a building which had been used as part of a school. The Council Building was used as a Courthouse, the vacated Mechanics Institute's building was used by the magistrate, and the Fire Station building was used as a hall. In 1896 a brewery was added onto the cordial factory which had been erected in 1895. In 1897 the cemetery was re-located.

In May 1898 Sir John Forrest, as Premier, visited Esperance and urged people to vote for Federation. The rush to the goldfields had diminished but there was hope that Esperance could further develop as a port. This would provide a trade route to and from the Eastern states but would need the support of a rail link to the inland areas. Forrest already knew of the proposed line from Coolgardie to Norseman and offered to find money to upgrade the road from Esperance to Norseman. This suggestion was not met with approval from the locals.

Those in business saw the downturn coming. Land speculators were angry at losing money. Many business proprietors moved to Ravensthorpe, Norseman or Kalgoorlie. Others such as Mayor Burton returned to Adelaide when George Wills & Co decided to withdraw. The promised rail link from Esperance to Norseman did not eventuate. Even the motion for a private line was dismissed. It is considered that the threat of the development of a major port on the southern coast would have upset plans for the future development of the established port of Fremantle.

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 22

Photograph 10: The Wesleyan Church, opened in 1897. Photo 1904.

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O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCF. HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 24

Photograph 11: Esperance Bay Jetty in 1896.

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The port had the support of those associated with sailing ships and later with steampships. Captain Fred Douglas and his brother Jim built a substantial stone house, complete with flagpole, in Dempster Street in 1903.

One industry which could continue in this period of recession was the Salt Works. McCarthy had taken a lease on Pink lake (Lake Spencer) and crude salt was taken into the town for crushing. Around 1900 a shed was built at Pink Lake and the horse- operated works shifted there. Pink packets, of 1 lb weight, were sold for threepence. A lease was taken on the salt lake at Middle Island and Mr and Mrs McKay lived there. McCarthy gave up the salt business in 1907.

After the Esperance townsite had been gazetted in 1893, the Dempsters lost land previously used for yarding stock. Sheep and cattle were still in demand so in 1898 the Dempster's moved their stock operations to Wheatfield Lake. A new complex comprising stone cook house and quarters, a large galvanised iron shearing shed, a dip, well, yards and paddocks was set up at Wheatfield.

A syndicate, the London-Esperance Proprietry Co, was interested in developing the area of Newtown as a port and subsequently a hall was built there. However, the population continued to decline in Esperance.

The Municipality ceased to exist on 30 October 1908, although the Roads Board remained. Population numbers dropped from 914 in the 1897 census to less than 200 hundred by 1908. Some families remained on the historic properties they had fought hard to make successful. The Ponton family and their descendants continued to develop land in the remote areas.

It became obvious to many remaining Esperance people that alternative work had to be found. This is when agriculture became seriously considered in the Mallee areas.

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 27

Photograph 13: The Dempster's woolshed at Wheatfield Lake. Photo 1904.

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Photograph 14: Bayview, built by Captain Fred Douglas in 1903. Photo 1904.

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPF.RANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 29

[4. The Period from 1909 - 1929 Survival I

The area now known as Grass Patch derived its name from the large tracts of open grass land surrounded by trees on Locations 23, 24, and 25 and North Patch Locations 1 and 11. These areas were readily brought into production as no clearing had to be done and oats could be easily planted in order to provide much needed horse feed.

Grass Patch was bought in 1894 by the Esperance Proprietry Company which was a subsidiary of the Hampton Plains Company. The Company had owned the entire area of Newtown (Castletown) and had been responsible for building a jetty and tramline to the goods shed in Esperance, approximatly 2 km away. The company had anticipated that Newtown might become the port area and as such was a good investment. They also built a large storage shed of fine oregon timber (Douglas Fir) of great lengths. When it became obvious that Esperance or Newtown would not become a major port, investors turned to farming for security. The shed was transferred to the Grass Patch farm.

In 1904 George Thompson purchased the Grass Patch farm for £1,300, having heard that the Esperance Proprietry Company wished to sell up its interests. A German stone mason, Alf Hamdorf was employed to build a stone house of granite rocks. The ex Newtown shed was put to good use over the years, for storing a large chaff cutter, and for storage of grain and hay. Storms took their toll but the timbers were saved and were used later to restore the homestead.

Other settlers were taking up parcels of land. Mr R J Stewart farmed at Dalyup. Wool was sent to town and stored in the Dempster woolshed. There was not very much progress in the town. The Esperance Bay Pastoral Company owned by the Dempsters was sold in 1909. The Lake Wheatfield shearing shed was sold to Moir and was finally dismantled in the 1930s.

In 1909 the population was so small that the hospital was closed. In 1910 the hospital was taken over by the Board of Health. The local midwife could be called away from her duties as owner of the Esperance Hotel. The Pier Hotel was destroyed by fire in March 1910 and rebuilding commenced in 1911.

The Fresh Air League provided cheap holiday accommodation. Founded in 1910 at Albany it then moved its headquarters to Bunbury. The League had also arranged holidays at Esperance, staying in various locations. After the Second World War they were successful in obtaining a hospital building from the RAAF at Boulder Camp, which had previously been part of a public hospital. The building itself dates from the late 1920s but like so many buildings of wooden frame construction they were often pulled down and rebuilt on other sites. Effie Turner who ran a dairy, sold the land at Newtown to the Fresh Air League for £46.

The Methodist Church was moved in 1912 to a site opposite Angove Street after a land dispute, as Lot 82 was owned by the Government. lip The salt industry was continued through McCarthy by persuading the Standard Salt Company of South Australia to take out a lease on Pink Lake.

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Photograph 15: Grass Patch Farm Homestead, built in 1904. (Picture taken before renovation in 1983).

Photograph 16: The Salmon Gums Hotel c 1929.

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Photograph 17: Harvesting salt at Pink Lake

Photograph 18: The first salt shed, and the crushing engine.

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Photograph 19: Bags of Pink Lake salt. L to R: Ken Synnot, Gertrude Synnot and her father, F J Daw, c 1937

Photograph 20: Loading the salt at the Esperance Jetty.

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The salt industry brought some relief from unemployment after the 1914-1918 war but the industry was wound up in 1924, when it was no longer profitable. Salt was used extensively by the meat industry, but with refrigeration less salt was needed. However, salt continued to be processed in Esperance until the late 1930s.

In 1911 a bill for the construction of the Norseman-Esperance line was introduced into parliament but was later rejected. One of the points debated was the supply of water to any future Mallee settlers. A severe drought in 1914/1915 sealed the fate of many of those who were willing to get established in Mallee country.

The townsite of Salmon Gums was gazetted officially in 1924 and the Esperance- Salmon Gums railway was enentually completed in 1925. In 1927 the rail link between Norseman and Esperance was completed, thus linking Esperance to the goldfields. The 'Flyer' became the favourite form of travel for those escaping from the heat of the goldfields to a breath of fresh air at the coast.

Early in 1927 the parents of children living in the Salmon Gums area became concerned about inadequate facilities for the education of their children. In December that year the Princess Royal Goidmine Primary School was transported from Norseman and re- sited at Salmon Gums. Pupils entered the school early in 1928. Later, additional classrooms were added and the school continued until the buildings were no longer adequate. A new school building was opened in 1972. The old school has been preserved in Museum Park.

Mr A D Helms, Manager of the Esperance Pine Forests Ltd, planted 500 acres of pines. This was not a great success, but with the aid of fertilizers he was able to develop crops of lupins, clovers and peas. There were others who were still optimistic about the potential of the Mallee district.

In 1926 a new weatherboard lockup was built near the old police station. The constable in charge was O'Connor, and the station was under the control of Inspector Spedding-Smith with headquarters at Kalgoorlie. The Sergeant's quarters have been re-constructed at Museum Park.

There was now the need for a properly run hospital in Esperance. Discussions were held and plans drawn up between 1927 and 1929 for a new building. Meanwhile the Wellard Hospital at the Inlet settlement was no longer needed owing to the failure of the returned soldier settlement scheme and the Depression. Negotiations resulted in the building being resited in Esperance and the hospital was opened in January 1930.

In the 1920s shortages of materials and money saw many instances of recycling of buildings. Although Sinclair's house of the 1920s is preserved in Museum Park as a house of that period, the main structure of four rooms came from an earlier house in William Street and the pine panelling belongs to the 1890s-1900s. The old hospital was purchased by Mr W Baird for 77 guineas in 1929, and was re-located to a block he owned in William Street.

Despite the hardships there was still enjoyment to be had at the Bijou Theatre. In 1929 the first 'talkie' film to be shown was entitled 'Domestic Troubles'.

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Photograph 22: At the opening of the Grass Patch Store in 1927.

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Photograph 23: A visit to Gibson Soak Hotel by Premier Scaddan (central figure in photograph) in 1915.

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The Wall Street crash in 1929 was felt all over the world and in Esperance the shipping trade fell dramatically. Before the crash, blocks of land had been bought in the townsite but when the rates were not paid, the Roads Board offered the blocks at the value of the unpaid rates. According to Vince Daw some blocks were offered at 416d and were bought by Kalgoorlie investors who often bought up a whole street. The Daw family store operated on credit, picking up trade when the holiday season began. Some farming families were left destitute, with undernourished children succumbing to Barcoo Rot because they were living solely on wheat and tinned bully beef. The Government made the decision to underwrite the enormous debt of soldier settlers who had 'not made it' and who owed money to the Banks.

All these factors contributed to a decline in development. The Esperance district was once again forced to struggle for survival.

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Photograph 25: The War Memorial, built c 1924.

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[s. The Penod 193 - 1949 J3epresswn and Second World War

Recovery from the Depression was slow and it took some time for the locals to achieve a reasonable standard of living and fill employment. Mr B Gurney recalls that there was much exchanging of produce with no money changing hands. Those who could not make it were forced off the land. Rabbits, which had reached plague proportions despite the rabbit proof fence, were easily caught in nets or shot individually, providing a cheap source of food. The skins and fur were used for hat making.

The Saltworks at Pink Lake continued to supply some employment. The town supported a flour mill, ice works, cordial factory, market gardens, dairy, three hotels, boarding houses, cafes, bakeries, radio repair shop, garage. It was not unusual for people to have two jobs. Farmers owned butchers' shops, undertakers were plumbers by day, picture theatre operators were auctioneers and wharfies. The town had to guarantee wharfies to ensure shipping came to Esperance.

The Eastern Goldfields Fresh Air League provided cheap accommodation for visitors at their beachfront premises which had been operating since 1910. The Camping Ground was used for summer vacations and in winter the overflow drain provided facilities for canoeing. T Thick operated pleasure cruises.

In 1934/3 5 the Esperance Jetty was built, opening in 1935. It owed its existence to the need for servicing the Mallee hinterland and later in 1937 the Lake View fuel tank. The Esperance Aerodrome was also established at this time.

In 1937 a pastoral lease was obtained over Middle Island by Alexander Chisholm. The yearly rent was L1.0.0. It was forfeited in 1958.

In 1938 there were only 40 pupils at Esperance State School with two teachers, Miss Hutchinson for the infants and Mr John Rintoul as Head Teacher for the senior pupils. Many children of well-to-do families were sent away to private boarding schools in . There were a number of small schools in the district - 3 at Grass Patch and others at East Circle Valley, East Dowak, Kumarl, Red Lake, Truslove and Salmon Gums. A school was also set up in West Scaddan.

The advent of the Second World War was a catalyst for change in the Esperance Region. A major change to the quiet life of Esperance was the loss of young men to the war effort and the billeting of American troops in the town when some Catalina flying boats were re-serviced. At one stage the racecourse was used as an American army camp. The HIVIIAS Kalgoorlie also made a visit. The children made V for Victory signs and dug trenches in the middle of the oval in anticipation of an attack by the enemy. Seven men from the Starcevich family of Grass Patch went to the war and Tom Starcevich received the for bravery. The Esperance Branch of the Country Womens' Association helped the war effort, along with the Red Cross Association and a Voluntary Defence Corps.

World War II in 1939 brought new technology to the country areas. Mechanization of farm equipment led to the replacement of the horse and dray. Tractors and bulldozers were able to clear land.

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Photograph 26: Central Esperance in the 1950s.

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The Bijou Picture Theatre continued to provide some relief from troubled times. In 1947 a Memorial Grove was planted above Second Beach (Blue Haven). Each tree was dedicated to the memory of service personnel who died in service during WWII. Plaques identifying the fallen were placed near the appropriate trees.

The effects of the Depression and WWII in Australia are well documented. Esperance's limited growth during this period mirrors the fairly similar experience of a struggling nation. The optimistic post WWTI period was therefore a welcome relief from the difficulties and inactivity that marked the decades from 1930-50.

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Photograph 27: The New Tanker Jetty, opened in 1935.

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6..The Penod f''rom____1950- 1979 lloder,i Pioneers

Over a period of fifty years there had been no noticeable growth in the population of Esperance or the construction of any civic buildings. The population was estimated at between 200 and 300. Most of the houses were of pre-1940s construction, or were simple three or four-roomed houses using wooden frames, tin walls and roof, and later asbestos fibro sheets. The roof lines often had a gabled end which were simpler to construct than hip roofs. Many older homes were transported from the goldfields as holiday homes when they were no longer needed. Low repayment War Service home loans were available for modest houses.

In 1952 children from outlying districts were taken to school by the local taxi, an F J Holden travelling the twenty five miles over gravel roads. By the 1960s a school bus brought children to school from districts such as Lort River and from other areas which were not serviced by a local school.

The Esperance Downs Research Station was established in 1949. A research station was also established at Salmon Gums. Mr B Gurney recalls that a lack of trace elements in the soil was discovered when it was noticed that the grass grew longer and greener around the telegraph poles. Here pieces of copper wire covered with zinc had been lying on the ground when the telegraph line had been put through fifty years before. Local farmers took an interest in the research findings but complained that they needed finds to finance such operations. Funds were made available to them but they were still considered inadequate.

Guided by the research findings of Dr T C Dunne and Mr F L Shier which were presented in a written report (1956) by the Esperance Downs Development Advisory Committee, American interest was shown in developing the large tracts of land previously thought unsuitable for crop growing. An American, Mr Alan Chase, was visiting the Northern Territory to close down a rice growing project and was introduced to Mr Wise, a former Premier of Western Australia and Minister for Lands and Agriculture. Wise suggested the Chase Syndicate might be interested in the development of the coastal at Esperance.

The Chase Syndicate, through the WA Government, formed the Esperance Plains (Australia) Pty Ltd. The Government made available 150,000 acres of land at four shillings an acre for the company to clear blocks, available for lease or with an option to buy. Enormous clearing equipment was introduced to take on this task. American movie stars including Art Linkletter, Randy Gault and Robert Cummings made investments with the Chase Syndicate. A film starring Robert Cummings was shown at the Bijou Theatre.

With the rush for blocks, complaints were made that the land was not well prepared. As a result the WA Government made available smaller Conditional Purchase land blocks for private sale. The larger American owned farms were run by managers. The smaller farms were taken up by Eastern States residents who travelled over the Nullabor Plain with all their possessions loaded onto trucks and vehicles and in some cases this included a tractor. Homes were tin sheds until a start could be made on a house. Permanent houses were only built after all the initial hard work of growing

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crops, harvesting, and a return on the investment became evident. The great promise of good crops all round was not to be. At the end of 1957 many crops failed owing to unseasonal weather conditons. This was enough for the American interest to withdraw. Some properties were not affected and 500 farms were established in the Esperance Plains district and in the Mallee district.

The road to Kalgoorlie was still unsealed, the Nullabor was a dirt track with dust bowls, and the road to Ravensthorpe was a track over the sand plain. A car of some sort was essential and was often purchased before the building of a house.

Following the increase in farming came other outlets. The Co-operative Bulk Handling was established in Brazier Street. In 1964 the Esperance Fertilizer Works opened.

With the increased interest in Esperance as the centre of a farming district the central town blocks of land became more valuable. Historical small buildings were pulled down in the move towards 'being modern'. The Daw family home had been moved in 1947 to its present site on the corner of William Street and The Esplanade and in 1960 the space was utilized to make the Daw Store larger to accommodate the needs of the 'new chums'. The term 't'othersiders' had been used in the newspaper of 1929, but it still applied in 1959 with most of the new settlers coming from the Eastern States. The 'new chums' included migrants from the European countries.

The principal for the Esperance school in 1959 was Doug Jecks who stayed for four years. The old school built of limestone had been gutted, but what remained was dismantled during this period (1962-63) to enable development of new classrooms. The school house at this time was next to the power station. Esperance Primary School was to move towards the status of a Junior High School and by 1966 Esperance had grown enough to support a Senior High School.

The 1960s was a period of great expansion and memorable events. New buildings, clubs, associations and services in the Esperance district were established. In 1960 the new Catholic Church,'Our Lady Star of the Sea,' was built. A new Hospital was ready in 1960 and the new Church of England, St Andrew's, was built. The Esperance Bay Yacht Club was formed while the Bowling Club was established with new premises. The first Esperance Shire Offices were built and were later demolished in 1991. A new Courthouse was built in Dempster Street and opened in 1967. The Seventh Day Adventist Church was completed in 1969. A Drive-In Theatre commenced in 1965, putting an end to the picture theatre entertainment enjoyed by many at the Bijou Theatre.

1964 was the Centenary year for Esperance and the Queen Mother visited Esperance by plane in March 1965. The local newspaper, The Esperance Express, operated from 1965 until its closure in 1974. In 1968 a private airstrip was opened while a new power station was built by the State Energy Commission in 1970. A land-backed wharf was built, with a second berth finished in 1972. The Post Office was replaced by a modern building in 1971. A Seafarer's Centre, opened in 1971, was home to those seeking help and accommodation. In 1974 the standard guage railway line from Kalgoorlie to Esperance was completed, in the same year that TV broadcasts from the ABC began.

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At the beginning of 1971 the enrolment at Esperance Primary School was 732 pupils and the school was understaffed. Over the previous ten years, with the increase in population, classes had been held in the Anglican Parish hall opposite the school. The Residency next to the old Post Office was used periodically as a school. There had been a turnover of headmasters, seven in eight years, with many of them moving rapidly up the senior ranks after they had fulfilled the necessary country 'duty'. It was left to Mr Frank Bell, as Headmaster and Acting Superintendent, to draw up the necessary plans for a new school at Nulsen. When the second Esperance school was demolished to make way for a new building, the Headmaster's house was also destined for demolition but was saved and placed in Museum Park.

The Arts and Care for the Environment appear to have been the major themes of the 1970s. In 1971 the new Library opened, shifting from what had formerly been the old Council Buildings. In the same year the Historical Society was formed. In 1972 the Wildflower Society was formed, recognising the unique flora in the district. Also in 1972 the Esperance Arts Council was formed. They supported the Esperance 'Bay of Isles' Festival which began in 1972. In the following year a foreshore committee was established with the aim of protecting the integrity of the foreshore. This year included the organisation of the first Esperance summer School. The Summer School, which enabled citizens to be taught a range of arts and crafts, was held in the Old Cannery, the former fish processing factory.

In 1979 Esperance hit the news with the fall out from the American Skylab which passed over Western Australia. Parts of the Skylab are displayed in the Esperance Museum which opened in 1976, utilising the Railway Goods Shed, formerly the Bonded Store and Customs Office of 1896.

The growth of Esperance from 1950 to 1979 was remarkable. Increased community spirit and an enlarged economic base have allowed Esperance to enter the modern era with a wide array of businesses, industries, community services and activities.

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Photograph 29: The Sinclair House of the 1920s, preserved in Museum Park.

Photograph 30: Elston's Bazaar and Stationery Shop, built in 1896, is now in Museum Park after being a chemist shop for a number of years. Formerly on Lot 21 Andrew St.

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FIGURE 4: Map showing the layout of Museum Park. SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 49

ThePeisod 1980-1995 Progress

By 1980 the population had increased to 7,200, with urban figures at 5,000 and rural at 2,200. Esperance had become popular as a tourist resort and holiday accommodation was increased with the building of motels and caravan parks. Tours of the bay were provided by a local enterprise while the Tanker Jetty became popular for recreational fishing. Agriculture still remained a major factor and many profited, pouring wealth into the town through the acquisition of land, homes, rentals and businesses. The Co-operative Bulk Handling facilities were upgraded and improved in 1985.

In 1981 the Civic Centre was opened to provide an accoustically sensitive building for concerts and entertainment.

In 1983 the Esperance Boat Harbour was opened at Bandy Creek and in 1984 the Port Authority administrative building was operational. 1986 saw a new shopping complex, The Boulevard, extending trading facilities and a new motel, The Bay of Isles, was to cater for a wider selection of the tourist trade. A new racecourse was also established during this period.

The Salmon Beach Wind Farm was established in 1987 and the Ten Mile Lagoon Wind Farm followed in 1993. The latter is considered to be a world leader in terms of capacity factor.

In 1991 a new Shire Office building was built on the site of the old one, with large, curved glass windows providing views over the bay.

In 1992 The Old Hospital was restored to become part of a small motel complex. The Bijou Theatre has been restored and the company's productions continue to be enjoyed.

In 1993 a Catholic school was built and the area of West Beach was taken up for new homes. Blocks at Castletown were made available for new homes and, as these were taken up, new subdivisions were created around the lake areas.

Consideration has been given to housing the elderly and providing services for them through Meals on Wheels and retirement homes. In 1982 the Masonic Retirement Village was built following on after the Star of the Sea and Alchera Homes for the Aged. A nursing home was built in 1991.

The environmental awareness of the Esperance people is reflected in the many projects attempted to protect the natural attributes of the region. The National Parks, Cape Le Grand and Cape Arid are examples of the natural environment of the Southern Coast. Of the 76 islands in the Recherche Archipelago, eight islands are in Esperance Bay, among them Wood, Cull, Lion, Black and Boxer Islands. These islands are protected. In 1992 a revegetation project to combat salinity and land degradation was initiated. The Esperance Shire as a result of this initiative received the John Tonkin Greening Award in the same year.

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Photograph 32: The Esperance Shire Council Administration Centre, built in 1991.

Photograph 33: The Ten Mile Lagoon Wind Farm, west of Esperance. Erected in 1994.

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Photograph 34: The Norfolk Island Pine Trees, so characteristic of Esperance. The first trees were planted in 1896.

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 53

In 1994 iron ore was railed down from Koolyanobbing for export, despite protests from local groups concerning its effect on the town's residents and the tourist industry through noise and dust pollution.

The town's population (1995) is now approximately 12,000, having doubled since 1966. New buildings planned are the Lotteries House for community care, Museum Park Soundshell and extensions to the Civic Centre to provide facilities for community use.

Esperance has already demonstrated an appreciation of its rich history. Sidewalk plaques mark the location of historical stores and businesses long gone. The majestic Norfolk Pine trees have been carefully tended over the years. The district's pioneers, the Dempsters, are remembered by the fountain in Dempster Street as well as by the continued existence of the original homestead which has been carefully restored under private ownership. It is a tribute to the people of the Shire of Esperance that the pioneering spirit continues to be reflected so strongly throughout the region.

The Municipal Heritage Inventory prepared in 1995-96 will help to establish Esperance' s part in the documentation of Western Australia's pioneer development and its relationship to the National Heritage.

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS Page 54 SHIRE OF ESPERANCE THEMATIC FRAMEWORK MATRIX

PERIOD 1792-1891 1892-1908 1909-1929 1930-1949 1950-1979 1976-1996 THEME! EXPLORATION AND GOLD, POPULATION RISES SURVIVAL DEPRESSION AND MODERN PIONEERS PROGRESS WORLD WARE SUBTHEME SETTLEMENT AND PALLS 1792 FRENCH EXPLORERS IN SHIPS 1892-94 SINCLAIR, ALLSOP, MOIR, GOLD RUSH FINISHES; NO FARMS ABANDONED, 1956 CHASE SYNDICATE; NEW 1980 POPULATION 7,300 1. DEMOGRAPHIC LA RECHERCHE, LESPERANCE; RAMSAY, TALBOT. 000DLIFFE - RAILWAY FROM GOLDFIELDS; PIONEER HOMESTEADS PIONEERS - FROM EASTERN (TOWN 5,000, RURAL 2,300); SETTLEMENT 1802 FLINDERS, THE INVESTIGATOR; GOLD CLAIMS; 1893 TOWNSITE RESETFLEMENT/SOLDIERS; NEGLECTED; SHORTAGE OF STATES, 0/SEAS AND 1995 POPULATION 15,000,; 1835 JOHN ANDERSON (BLACK JACK) OF ESPERANCE DECLARED; BANK REPAYMENT MATERIALS, TIN TAKEN OFF RETURNED SOLDIERS; SMALL TOURISM INDUSTRY; LOCALITIES AND MOBILITY STAYED MIDDLE ISLAND; 1895 ESP GAZETFED AS DIFFICULTIES; FAILURE OF BUILDINGS, FALL INTO LAND HOLDINGS, LAND GAZETFED Why people settled 1840 THOMAS SHERRATF, WHALING; MUNICIPALITY; HOMESTEADS OF FARMS; FAILURE OF DISREPAIR; RECYCLING OF CLEARED BY SYNDICATES; 1841 JOHN EYRE, EXPLORER: EARLY SETTLERS; WAYSIDE INNS; BUSINESSES OLD BUILDINGS; DISTRICTS TOWNSHIPS ESTABLISHED IN Why they moved away 1848 J S ROE, EXPLORER/SURVEYOR; SHOPS; 1908 MUNICIPALITY SURROUNDING ESPERANCE ESPERANCE AREA The things they left behind 1863 DEMPSTERS, LANARDS, COBURN- ABOLISHED; SETTLEMENTS PROVIDE SUPPORT; CAMPBELL, LAND LEASES; BETWEEN NORSEMAN AND EDUCATION NEEDS; MEN GO Sub theme(s) 1870 CAMPBELL-TAYLOR, LAND ESPERANCE; TO WAR; SERVICEMEN IN LEASE; 1870 . 71 ALEX AND JOHN AND OUT OF PORT FORREST, EXPLORERS SAILING SHIPS (SCHOONERS, SAILING AND STEAMSHIPS FROM 1913 WIRELESS STATION 1934/35 TANKER JETTY BUILT - 1962 BUS/COACH TRANSPORT; AIRPORT UPGRADE; 2. TRANSPORT AND CUTTERS), WHALEBOATS; ADELAIDE; COBB & CO; CAMEL OPENED; MECHANIZATION - OIL TO GOLDFIELDS; 1965 TELEPHONE EXCHANGE; RECREATIONAL FISHING - COMMUNICATIONS 1876 EASTIWESTTELEGRAPH LINE; TRAINS; BULLOCK & WAGON; 1925 RAILWAY SALMON GUMS AERODROME DEVELOPED; 1968 AIRPORT DEVELOPED; TANKER JETI'Y; BANDY CREEK How people and goods MAIL BY WHALEBOATS; CAMEL HORSE, DRAYS, CARTS; TO ESP; 1927 SALMON GUMS RADIO; TELEPHONE, 1968 PORT AUTHORITY; HARBOUR; COLOUR TV TRAIN; STOCK ROUTES; BICYCLES, WALKING; 1895 POST TO NORSEMAN; SHIPPING COMMUNICATION INCREASED 1971 LAND BACKED WHARF; moved 1876 DEMPSTERS BUILT JETTY & TELEGRAPH OFFICE; DECLINES; TELEPHONES; TRACTORS REPLACE HORSES; 1974 STANDARD GUAGE NEWSPAPERS; SOCIAL CARS, TRUCKS INTRODUCED RAILWAY; 1965-1974 LOCAL How people communicated GATHERINGS HOTELS; WAYSIDE NEWSPAPER; TV and exchanged information INNS AT GRASS PATCH, GIBSONS SOAK, SALMON GUMS; Sub theme(s) 1894 JETTY AT NEWFOWN; 1895 ESPERANCE JETTY - EXTENDED 1896/98 EXPLORERS, NAVIGATORS, PASTORALISTS; KANGAROO AGRICULTURE; SHEEP AND AGRICULTURAL RESEARCH, FERTILISER WORKS; SMALL ENTERPRISES; TOURISM 3. OCCUPATIONS BOTANISTS; SEALERS AND WHALERS; SHOOTERS; MARKET GARDENS, CATFLE; ORCHARDS; ESPER ESPER DOWNS RESEARCH ABBATFOIRS; GRAIN MOTELS/ACCOMMODATION; What people did for SALE OF BI-PRODUCTS, SKINS/MEAT; ORCHARDS; BUILT CONDENSORS; PROVIDED SUMMERTIME STATION; EXPERIMENTAL HANDLING; CO-OP FISHING; FARMING- PRODUCE; KANGAROO HUNTING; STATION CUT WOOD; RESIDENT HOLIDAY ACCOMMODATION; CROP -ADDING TRACE SALT PROCESSING; TOURISM WINE MAKING; sustenance or to add MANAGERS, SHEPHERDS, SHEARERS, MAGISTRATE; MEDICAL OFFICER RAILWAY STAFF/WORKERS; ELEMENTS, AGRIC DEPT PROMOTED 1993/1995 WIND FARM quality to life; paid and COOKS; POLICE; TELEGRAPH /DOCTOR; 1895-98 BONDED GENERAL STORES; GARAGES - OFFICER STORE, 1893-97 FOUR HOTELS - MECHANICS; WATERSIDE, unpaid labour PIER, ROYAL, ESPERANCE, GRACE ROAD AND SALT WORKERS; Sub theme(s) DARLING; RESTAURANTEURS; FISHERMEN (PART TIME) HOTELIERS & BOARDING HOUSE PROPRIETORS; BLACKSMITHS, MERCHANTS, BANKERS, BROKERS, REAL ESTATE; LAND SALESMEN; BREWERS; PHOTOGRAPHER; TEACHERS; SALT FARMING; NURSES/MIDWIFE BUT COMMUNITY LAW AND ORDER BY SETTLERS; CHURCHES - ANGLICAN & HOSPITAL CLOSES CWA; RSL; RED CROSS; RSL HALL; HIGH SCHOOL; CIVIC CENTRE FOR 4. 1879 POLICE STATION SET UP, WESLEYAN; SCHOOL; 1896 BIJOU REOPENS WITH HOSPITAL FUNDRMSING CHURCHES; CWA HALL; ENTERTAINMENT; AGED EFFORTS 1881 CENSUS OF THE DISTRICT; THEATRE, FIRST HOSPITAL, FIRST BROUGHT FROM WELLARD - MUSEUM; NEW LIBRARY, PEOPLES HOMES; CANNERY AS HOME STUDIES, RELIGION, SCHOOL; FIRS BRIGADE; FAILED SETTLEMENT AT PEEL NEW HOSPITAL; I960S NEW ART CENTRE; NEW SHIRE What people did together EDUCATION; SHEARERS BALL HELD CHAMBER OF COMMERCE; INLET (1929); SPORTS CLUBS SCHOOLS, SHIRE OFFICE; COUNCIL OFFICES 1990; as a community,'the issues ANNUALLY. PLANTED PINES; SPORTS - TENNIS, CONTINUE; RED CROSS DRIVE-IN THEATRE; GOLF ENVIRONMENTAL AWARENESS FOOTBALL, CRICKET, BICYCLE SUPPORT, FIRST WORLD WAR CLUBS; SQUASH COURTS; that divided them; the RACING, HORSE RACING; MOVIE THEATRE AT BIJOU BOWLING CLUB; structures they created to ESPERANCE SHOW; TWO THEATRE serve civic needs NEWSPAPERS; TWO CEMETERIES Sub theme(s) ABORIGINAL KNOWLEDGE OF GOLD DISCOVERED AT LOW PRICES; MEN DIED IN FIRES; DEPRESSION; WWII SNAKE PLAGUE; OUTCOMES FLUCTUATING ECONOMY; 5. OUTSIDE INFLUENCES: WATERING PLACES; NORSEMAN, COOLGARDIE, WWI LOSS OF LABOUR; OF CHASE SYNDICATE RETIREES FROM GOLDFIELDS Events, decisions or changes SEALERS/WHALERS/ABORIGINAL KALGOORLIE; GOLD RUSH OVER - DROUGHT. RABBIT PLAGUE; ARRIVING AND LEAVING REQUIRE HOMES - BOOM IN WOMEN; FRENCH NAMES FOR DECLINE, POPULATION STOCK EXCHANGE FAILURE, BUILDING which affected the community, PLACES; 1890 GOLD DISCOVERED IN DECREASES, PEOPLE MOVE WALL STREET EFFECTS but were beyond its control DUNDAS REGION AWAY, HOTELS AND SHOPS FLOWED ON; DEPRESSION CLOSE; NEWSPAPERS Sub theme(s) FOLD/FINISH; RAILWAY NOT FORTHCOMING - NO DEVELOPMENT FOR THE PORT I SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 55

MUNICIPAL HERITAGE INVENTORIES

THEMES, SUBTHEMES AND SITE TYPES

1. Demographic settlement and mobility Why people settled; why they moved away, the things they left behind

SUBTHEME SITE TYPE

Exploration and surveying landing places of early explorers exploration routes camp sites and graves of explorers

Aboriginal occupation/racial contact meeting sites, other sites of significance

Land allocation and subdivision areas reflecting early land grant and subdivision patterns

Workers (Aboriginal, convict, early settlements and stations indentured) convict hiring stations, prisons, worker housing

Settlements (including group, soldier, sites associated with government or Aboriginal after 1829) corporate ventures and schemes; abandoned settlements, their sites and remnants, including gardens, introduced trees and other plants; lonely graves and cemeteries

Immigration, emigration and refugees sites associated with particular immigrant groups, quarantine/custom stations (human and animal) migrant camps, detention camps

Resource exploitation and depletion mine and processing sites

Depression and boom sites of successful and failed enterprises

Technology and technological change places demonstrating important building styles and phases

Environmental change (degradation and sites associated with drought and conservation) rehabilitation

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 56

THEMES, SUBTILIMIES AND SITE TYPES

2. Transport and communications How people and goods moved; how people communicated and exchanged information

SUBTHEME SITE TYPE

River and sea transport wreck sites, rescue sites) shipyards, jetties and wharfs, lighthouses, beacons

Road transport roads, bridges, service stations, tracks and trails, inns and coach stops.

Rail and light rail transport stations and sidings rights of way and cuttings fuel and watering points workshops, bridges, signal boxes

Droving stock and watering holes

Mail services post offices, hollow trees and sites associated with mail services, formal and informal

Newspapers printing works, news stands

Telecommunications cable stations, telegraph stations radio, television, radar transmitter/receiver facilities telephone exchanges, RFDS bases

Technology and technological change sites demonstrating innovation, technological excellence or adaptations to local conditions

Air transport airstrips, terminals, hangars

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 57

THEMES, SUBTHEMES AND SITE TYPES

3. Occupations What people didfor sustenance or to add quality to life; paid and unpaid labour

SUBTHEME SITE TYPE

Grazing, pastoralism, dairying homesteads, shearing sheds stockmens and shearers quarters outcamps, stockyards stock routes and watering holes dairies, milk processing plants places demonstrating the contributions of Aboriginal people

Rural industries, market gardens, and small gardens, packing sheds, cellars and other animal farming storage facilities, trees from old orchards, barns, wheat bins, mills

Timber forest camps, towns, mills

Prospecting, mining, quarrying and mineral mining and quarrying sites, clay pits, lime processing kilns, brick kilns

Domestic activities places demonstrating the contributions of women and children places demonstrating the conditions under which prople worked

Intellectual acitivities, arts and crafts places with indigenous building styles places demonstrating important building styles and phases galleries, studios and workshops

Commercial and service industries banks, markets, shops

Technology and technological change sites demonstratiing innovative use of local materials places demonstrating, or associated with, important technological developments

Commercial and service industries banks, markets, shops, insurance

Manufacturing and processing factories, abattoirs

Hospitality industries and tourism hotels, theme parks, tearooms

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 58

THEMES, SUBT1LFMES AND SITE TYPES

4. Social and civic activities: What people did together as a community; the issues that divided them; the structures they created to serve civic needs

SUBTHEME SITE TYPE

Government, local government and politics town and roads board halls government departments

Education and science schools, colleges, universities, research stations

Law and order police stations, courts, prisons and internment camps

Community services and utilities Fire stations, cemeteries, hospitals and nursing stations, RFDS water supply (dams, catchments pumphouses, pipelines) electricity (generating stations, transformer and switchyards, public lighting) gas (gasometers, pipelines, public lighting) sewerage and drainage (drains, pipelines, treatment plants)

Sport, recreation and entertainment swimming pools, sporting grounds community halls, hotels, taverns, cinemas, sporting clubhouses, bowling greens, golf courses, racing tracks

Religion Religious establishments, places of worship, schools and convents

Cultural activities theatres/halls, art galleries, museums

Institutions RSL, masonic and other group halls, orphanages, hostels, CWA halls, hostels

Environmental awareness Communes, alternative farms

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 59

THEMES, SUBTHEMES AND SITE TYPES

5. Outside influences Events, decisions or changes which affected the community, but were beyond its control

SUBTHEME SITE TYPE

World Wars and other wars barracks, prison and internment camps, camp sites, military communications sites, munition dumps and factories, war memorials, memorial gardens, cemeteries, drill halls

Refugees refugee camps

Depression and boom sites reflecting boom times sites reflecting depression times sites associated with employment schemes

Natural disasters sites demonstrating or commemorating the effects of cyclones, floods

Markets

Tourism

Water, power and major transport routes pipelines, power lines national road and rail routes

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS SHIRE OF ESPERANCE HERITAGE INVENTORY - THEMATIC FRAMEWORK Page 60

THEMES, SUBTHEMES AND SITES

6. People Women and men from all walks of life who left their mark on the history of the community

SUBTHEME SITE TYPE

Aboriginal people (before and after 1829)

Early settlers

Local heroes and battlers homes or workplaces of notable long term residents sites associated with people who became famous (or infamous) beyond the community sites associated with infamy

Innovators

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS Page 61

BIBLIOGRAPHY OF HISTORY RESO URCES

Compiled by Cathy Day and Dawn Grieve Heritage Consultants for O'Brien Planning Consultants

(This bibliography is a practical aid to assisting further research - and not an academic document).

All items can be found in the Battye Library.

References marked * have been used in our research for the historical framework.

PRIMARY SOURCE MATERIAL

1972 copies of letters re date on which D'Entrecasteaux anchored in Esperance Bay. (3 & 2p). 2260A

*Banquet for Sir John Forrest 6 May 1898 menu and toast list. (4p) PR 3514

Bostock, George H. Esperance Bay Station. Papers (1862-1944). 1033A 1229A 2641A 2932A

Bow, Frederick, W. My Life Story 1871-1954 (54p) *PR 1092/1

Chape, S. Esperance District Coastal Managaement Plan. 1983 (79p) Q333,917 CHA

Climatological Survey of Esperance Region Melbourne, 1955 (13p) Q551.6

Commercial broadcasting station licence grant inquiry (44p) 1981 Q3 84.5453 .AUS

Craig, G.F. Esperance Eastern Coast Planning & Management Report. Perth: WA Dept of Conservation and Environment, 1984 (54p) Q333.784 CRA

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS Page 62

D'Entrecasteaux A.R.J., Chevalier de Bruni., C. Trevan. Letters to Esperance library April/May 1973 re discrepancies in dates of D'Entrecasteaux visit to Esperance (1972) *PR 10675/1

D'Entrecasteaux, A.R.J., Chevalier, B. Brief account of visit of the Recherche and Esperance to Esperance taken from 'Voyage' of D'Entrecasteaux.

De Brune Alden Esperance the sunrise town (in Sydney "Daily Mail") 192?. PR 10675/3

Deed between State of W.A. and Esperance Plains (Aus.) Ltd. for development of Esperance Downs area. 1956 (9p) PR 10675/18

Deed for development of Esperance Downs area. *PR 10675/18

Dempster family 2516A

Dempster brothers letters to and from father 2488A

Dempster, W.E. Eleven letters to J. Rintoul 1946-8. 1230A

Esperance Anglican Church. St. Andrew. Records 2922A 3425A

Esperance Bay Company Ltd. Memorandum & Articles Jan 1890 and Resolutions 1894-1914 PR 10675/14

Esperance Bay Company Ltd. Records 3293A

Esperance Bay Company Ltd. Records 1898-1953 1024A

Esperance Bay Company Ltd. Scrapbook of Newspaper Cuttings. May 1900-Dec 1916 relating to Coolgardie-Esperance railway. PR 2703

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS Page 63

Esperance Bay Turf Club Centenary Cup Meeting 29 Feb. 1964. Programme (lop) *PR 3784/2

Esperance Bay Turf Club Centenary Meet. 29 Feb 1964 - programme. *PR 3784/2

Esperance Cemetery - transcript of tombstone inscriptions. 1982 PR 2640

Esperance Centenary Souvenir and Ball programme. 1964 *PR 3784/1-4

Esperance Courthouse Records 783

Esperance Development Strategy Steering Committee Regional Planning W.A. Esperance Shire. 1986. Q307.14 ESP

Esperance Development Strategy Steering Committee Final Report. 1986 (264p) Q307.14 ESP

Esperance Downs Development Advisory Committee Report. Perth: Government Printer, 1955. (46p) Q333.73 WA: ESP

Esperance Downs Development Advisory Committee Report. Perth: Government Printer, 1956 (46p) Q333.7ESP

Esperance Fertilisers Pty Ltd route map and programme of opening. Nov. 1964 PR 10675/15

Esperance Harbour official opening. 1965. (8p) *PR 9417/3 PR 4205

Esperance Land Board Minutes of Meetings 1921-29 1121

Esperance linked by rail. Souvenir 1924. (4p) *PR 2832

Esperance Methodist Centre. 11 Oct 1970. PR 9585/1-

Esperance Municipal Council 1895-97. Minutes. 977

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS Page 64

Esperance Municipal Council. Standing orders (By-law No.2) (8p) PR 10675/17

Esperance Pine Forests Ltd. Records 3191A 3295A

Esperance Roads Board Records 1260 1848

Esperance Visitor Survey 1975/6 by WA Dept of Tourism and Esperance Tourist Bureau. 1976. (49p) *Q338.479102 WA: TOU

Esperance-Norseman Circuit. Methodist Church Records. 1336A

Esperance Way '79 Celebrations (150 years) *PR 10474/1-

Exploration Diaries 1827-1871. Land 7 Surveys Dept. PR 5441

Extracts from journals logs. etc. about loss of anchor PR 8066 2420A

Hackett, J.W. Letter to Sir J Kirwan re railway. 6 July 1910. 174A

Index to ships passengers 1899-1903 782

Inventory of the late municipality of Esperance 1898, 1908, 843

Kalgoorlie. Anglican Church Diocese PR 8616/1

Kemp Family papers MN 1159 3455A

Lea, Pauline historic homestead in the west. In New Idea. 24.3.79 *PR9849/ 1

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS Page 65

May, G.M. & A.G. Hewby letter to surveyor general. 1911. PR 9372

Moorehead, Alan Letter from Australia in New Yorker. 10 October 1964. PR 3911

Museum: Record tallies of shearing sheds *PR 11761/8

Order of Service for laying of foundation stone of St. Andrews. 1963. PR 3784/3

Petition to Governor requesting merger of Esperance Municipal Council and Roads Board. 1028

Police Dept off. A.: Esperance records 781

Progress reports on Scaddan Pine Plantation 1936-1947. 1463

Public Works Dept. letter re construction of breakwater at Esperance Harbour to preserve Admirality Bench mark and T. Windich's grave. 1039

Public Works Dept. Including table of cargo statistics 1924-1970. Q627.3 WA: PUB

Public Works Dept Esperance small boat harbour investigations 1979. (41p). Q627.38 WA: PUB

Records of Dempster Brother Station 1873-1906 335A (107)

Records of Esperance District 1902-3, 1910 894A

Record of ships passengers 1893-1896 113

Report on: Investigations into hydrology use of Pink Lake. Dept. of Conservation and Environment, 1986. (9p) Q551.482 PIN

Rintoul, J. History of Esperance: The Port of the Goldfields, 1792-1946. Esperance, 1946. (64p) *994. 1 ESP

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS Page 66

Royal Commission on the Mallee Belt and Esperance Lands. 1917. Q631.4 WA: ROY

Scobie, G.M. Wool Economic research report 17. 1970. Bureau of Agricultural Economics 338.17 AUS

Statistics of Dundas & Esperance. Bureau of Census and Statistics. 1960. PR 10675/9

The Goldfields and Esperance (map and tourist guide). Land and Surveys Dept, W.A. 1978. (32p) 994.14 KAL

The Upgrading of the Widgiemooltha to Esperance Railway: tender documents. 1970. (13 ip) Q625.17 UPG

Vacuum terminals - new (Vacuum Oil Co.) in Esperance. In Vacuum Review Supplement (1960). (4p) PR 2505

Williams, J.R. Plan of track from Esperance to Fraser's Range. 1894. 190A

Your visit to Esperance - March 1960. programme of official party for opening of Vacuum Oil Company's seaboard terminal Q665.5 VAC

ORAL HISTORIES

Alexander, Bob. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1224ttr

Bennetts, G. Interviewed by C. Jeffery in 1977. OH 1121 t

Booker, M.A. Interviewed by T. Daniell, 1983. OH 1121 t

Bostock, Emma. Reminiscences - broadcast on 6WF in Turn of the Century series on 6.9.1951. PR 3480

Bostock, Emma. Esperance in the early days interview. 1946 1229A

Cavanagh, Gordon J. Interviewed by J. Teasdale. 22.8.1975. OH 70 t tr

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS Page 67

Chadwick, Thelma M. interviewed by J. Teasdale 13-15 June 1978. OH300ttr

Cox, E. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1983. OH 1138 ttr

Daniel, R.B. Interviewed by. C Creighton in 1983. OH 1140 ttr

Daniell, K. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1139 ttr

Daw, R.C. Interviewed by R. Jamieson in 1977. OH339ttr

De Grussa, A.W. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1208 ttr

De Grussa, Alfred, W. Interviewed by C. Creighton in June 1984. OH 1208 ttr

Dc Grussa, F. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1208 ttr

Derbyshire, D. & H. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH ll42ttr

Derbyshire, D. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1983. OH 1142 ttr

Dimer, Karl. Address to Historical Society. 1973. OH 177/2ttr

Dunn, E. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1234 ttr

Edwick, D. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1209 ttr

Edwick, D. & J. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1209 ttr

Freeman, F. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1983. OH 1235 tr

George, M.J. Interviewed by T. Daniell in 1983. (Restricted) OH 120 t

Gilmour, G. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1983. OH 1140 ttr

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS Page 68

Gilmour, G. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1983. OH ll44ttr

Grewar, G. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1211 ttr

Grigor, Alex. Interviewed by C. Creighton. OH 1145 ttr

Grigor, A. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1983. OH 1145 ttr

Grigor, A. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1983. OH 1145 ttr

Hagon, J. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1983. OH ll46ttr

Hagon, J. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1982, 1983. OH 1146 ttr

Ismail, G. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1214 ttr

Jardine, F. Interviewed by T. Daniell in 1983. (restricted) OH 1119 t

Jecks, Joan. Interviewed by C. Creighton. OH 1215 ttr

Johnstone, D. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1983. OH 1216 ttr

Kent, M. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1983. OH 1236 t

Lalor, M. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1983. OH 1146 ttr

Le Mercier. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1237 t

Lewis, G. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1218 ttr

Logan, C. & C. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1219 ttr

Mansell, A.S. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1147 ttr

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS Page 69

March, S. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH ll47ttr

Martin, C. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1238 t

McGinn, M.M. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1974 OH 1289 t

Meyer, R. & S. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1220 ttr

Newton, B. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1221 ttr

O'Connor, R. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1222ttr

Orlando, S. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1270 ttr

Payne, B. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1983. OHll5lttr

Rintoul, J. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1224ttr

Senior, Blake. Interviewed by C. Creighton. OH 1153 ttr

Shepherdson, K. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1983. OH 1154 ttr.

Smallwood, David. Interviewed by C. Creighton in April 1984 (17p). OH 1227 ttr

Stewart, W.C. Address to Historical Society 1976. OH 177/1 ttr

Syme, A. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1984. OH 1229 ttr

Thomas, I.M. Interviewed by T. Daniell in 1983. OH 1122t

Thomas, R. Interviewed by T. Daniell in 1983. (restricted) OH 120t

Torpy, T. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1983. OH 1228 ttr

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS Page 70

Wall, Dorothy. Interviewed by T. Daniell. Dec 1984. OH 1288 ttr

Whittem, L. Interviewed by T. Daniell in 1984. Oh l23Ottr

Wright, C. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1983. OH l2l7ttr

Wylie, G. Interviewed by C. Creighton in 1983. OH 1231 ttr

SECONDARY RESOURCE MATERIAL

Agriculture Dept of W.A. Esperance Downs Research Station. Perth: Govt Pr. 1964 (23p). 630.62 WA:AGR

An Esperance Digest memories Past and Present. Compiled by the Esperance Branch of the Fellowship of Australian Writers 1988. 994.17

Anderson, Ronald and associates. Land of the Lazy Wind. (History of agriculture 1890's-1969). 1969. (12p) PR 10675/8

Anglican Church - 'St Paul' Kalgoorlie Anglican Diocesan News - brief history etc (24p) PR 8616/1

Anthology: Writers from Esperance W.A. The Printing Press 1983 (120p). 826.8A (W) ANT

Braid, Eva, Charles Fitzgerald Fraser of Dowerin and Esperance. In R.W.A.H.S. Jnl and Proc. Vol. VII Part IV 1972. pp.82-94.

*Brief History of Esperance RN 588

Bruce-Smith, Georgie. History of the Catholic Church in Esperance, 1792-1982 (72p). Roman Catholic Church in Grass patch is 'Our lady of the Church'. 282.9417 BRU

Cotton, E. The Dempsters at Esperance Bay (3p). PR 4115

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS Page 71

Dempster, F. Andrew Dempster - founder of Esperance and Muresk. 1967. (6p) PR 5606

Dempster House Pr 9849/1-

Devine, Donna. Esperance and Districts. Wembley, W.A. Emu Souvenirs 197? 919.417 ESP

Douglas, F.A. Biographical notes by son (1850-1916). (4p) PR 8697

Dunn, Robin (Clipping) Esperance: 75 years of worship within corrugated iron. In Western Methodist Oct 1970.

Elliot, B. Six Selected Views of Esperance (1950's) - leaflet. PR 10675/5

Erickson, Rica. The Dempsters. Nedlands. University of Western Australia. 1978. (297p) (1830-1900) B/DEM

Esperance Bay Historical Society. Notes on early settlers. 2510A

*Esperance. Collection of material. PR 9417/1- PR 10675/13

*Esperance District - collection of info PR 10675/1-

Esperance District. Notes etc C 1920's and 1930's. 1142A

*Esperance Fertilisers Pty Ltd. Route map and programm of opening. Nov 1964. PR 10675/15

Esperance Hinterland. W.A. Govt. 1965. (23p) 338.1099417 ESP

Esperance Institute - list of authors and titles. 440.A

*Esperance Municipal Museum PR 11761/1-

Esperance Port Strategy. Esperance Port Authority. 1986. (25p) Q387.109 ESP

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS Page 72

Esperance Post Office: Historical Report. Dept of Works, Architectural Division. Perth, 1969. (20p) 725.16 AUS

Esperance Sandplain Research Seminar. Feb. 1986. Dept of Agriculture, W.A. (66p). Q631 ESP

Esperance Sheep Field Day: Esperance Downs Research Station, Oct 1986. Q636.308 ESP

Esperance Stories from The Modern Pioneers compiled by the Esperance Branch of The Fellowship of Australian Writers above. 1992. 994.17

*Esperance Tourist Information PR 9991/1-

*Esperance: the ideal holiday place (1920) (4p) PR 10675/2

Fels, M.A. A History of the port of Esperance and its Hinterland. 1986. (17p) Q386.109 FEL

Finlay, 0. A. Notes on the Ponton Brothers. 1976. (3p) PR 8745

*Firth, Rose. The Port of Esperance, 1864, 1963. Thesis: Mt Lawley Teachers College 197? (2lp) 387.109 FIR

Goldfields & Esperance: complete map coverage & tourist guide. Dept of Land & Surveys. 1983. (33p) 919.416 KAL

Hardy, J.M. A History of Esperance. Thesis. 196? (1 83p) 994.17 ESP

*History & Tourist Information (4p) PR 9991/24

*Hogarth, Valerie A. The Esperance plains research station and the development of the Esperance plains 1950-1966. 1966. (25 & 16p). 630.72 HOG

Jardine, F. Part of the Way: Memoirs Esperance, 1979. (57p) B/JAR

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS Page 73

Linidetter, Art. Linidetter down under Sydney. London, 1968. (222p) 994 LIN

Mogumber Methodist Mission records restricted

Murray, D. Community education - recommendations for Esperance Senior High. Schools Commission, Services & Development Committee, 1979. (75p) Q374 MUR

*Museum: Lucky Bay botanical notes. PR 11761/9

*Museum: Shearing Terms were tough in 1881. PR 11761/6

*Notes on Early Settlement (1p) Rn 655

On, T.R.B. Material relating to T & F On. PR 9702/1-

Population and Workforce projection: Shires of Esperance and Ravensthorpe. Office of the N.W. and Dept of Industrial, Commercial & Regional Development 1982. (40p) Q331.123 POP

*progressive Esperance: what to do etc. 1955. (48p) PR 10675/4

Public Works Dept: Esperance Beach Investigations. Q55 1.36 WA: PUB

Reitze, Lucy E. Thomas and Florence On. 1977. (21p) PR 9702/1

*Rjntoul, John, comp Esperance yesterday and today. Perth, Service Printing Co., 1964. (202p) 994.11 ESP

John, comp. Esperance yesterday and today 4th edition. 1986 (249p) 994.17 ESP

Rundell, Kathleen A. The Stewarts of Dalyup 1979. (8p) PR 9686/1

Scott (W.D.) & Co. Pty Ltd. Reports to Esperance Shire Council Perth, 1973. Q352.09417 ESP

Sledge, S. Brief report on research to find exact location of anchor from the "Esperance" 1792 (4p) 1974. PR 8066

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS Page 74

Stewart Family of Dalyup - material. PR 9686/1-

The Esperance lands & Railway, Kalgoorlie. 1911. (lop) PR 448

The Esperance Youth Hostel Pamphlet PR 4809/29

Thomas, Donald L. The Kemp Family of Esperance 1977. (14p) QB/KEM

Visit to Orleans Farm - tourist leaflet ip PR 10675/19

*Vihltwell, B. 335 Years of History at Esperance. 1961. (4p) PR 10675/6

NEWSPAPERS

Esperance Advertiser 1965-1974 Esperance Chronicle & Dundas & Norseman Advertiser 1895-1898 Esperance Echo 1929-1929 Esperance Express 1973 - Esperance News Express 1965 - 1965 Esperance Times 1896-1898 Goldfields Weekender 1981-1981 Norseman Advertiser 1935-1936 Norseman Esperance Guardian & Dundas Goldfields Advertiser 1896-1896 Norseman Esperance News 1936 - 1957 Norseman Pioneer 1896-1897 Norseman Times 1898-1920 Recherche Gazette 1994 -

Old Serials Catalogue

Esperance Bay Bulletin 5 July 1984 - (Rotary Club) weekly

Esperance Bay Chronicle 1984 for Historical Society.

Esperance Lions Roar

Esperance Rotary Review -weekly

Hope Parish Magazine of St Andrews Church - monthly Feb 1962 -

Wave Length (E.B. Yatch & Club) Dec 1972-May 1978, bi-monthly.

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS Page 75

The Challenge (E. Lutheran Church).

PHOTOGRAPHS

Pictoral Collection: 119

Grass Patch: 7 Scaddan: 2 Gibson: 1 - Gibson Soak Hotel

Copy Print Collection: 90

Grass Patch: 4 Gibson: 1 - Gibson Soak Hotel

O'BRIEN PLANNING CONSULTANTS FOREWORD TO PLACE RECORD FORMS

The information for these Place Record Forms was compiled by the members of the Esperance Heritage Inventory Community Committee and was edited and processed by O'Brien Planning Consultants. It was collected from a number of sources. In most cases the owners, proprietors or related people have provided some of the information, for which we are most grateful. Other information is based on the memories of long-time residents in the district. Without their input this report would not have been possible. Our sincere thanks to you all.

It is inevitable that there will be some things which may not be entirely accurate. If time and further research show up some inconsistencies, it will be possible to remedy these when the Inventory is reviewed in four years time. We would encourage people to submit the correct information to the Shire for the review process.

Val O'Brien June 1996 Page 1

SHIRE OF ESPERANCE MUNICIPAL HERITAGE INVENTORY

Place NAME DATE ADDRESS No 01 Balbinya (Balbinia) Station 1883 Location 4, Mardabilla, Esperance 02 Bayview (Bay View) 1903 141 Dempster Street, Esperance 03 Bijou Theatre 1896 115 Dempster Street, Esperance 04 Bonded Store and Railway Goods 1895- Cnr James Street and The Esplanade, Shed 1898 Esperance 05 Burraburinya Dam 1885 Parmango Road, Esperance 06 Cemetery - Pink Lake Road 1897 Pink Lake Road, Esperance 07 Chimbu Trading Post - 1896- Museum Park Village, Esperance Sinclair's House 1920s 08 Civic Centre 1981 Council Place, Esperance 09 Dempster Homestead 1876 155 Dempster Street, Esperance 10 Dempsters' Stone Well c1870s Cnr Connolly and Stewart Streets, Esperance 11 Dempsters' Woolshed and Sheep Dip 1898 Opposite Quarry and Fisheries Roads intersection, Esperance 12 Deralinya Station 1890 Parmango Road, Esperance 13 Doctor's Surgery 1900 Andrew Street, Esperance 14 Dunns' Boyatup Farm 1895 Cnr Merivale & Jims Oven Road, Esperance 15 Elston's Bazaar and Stationery Shop 1896 Museum Park, Esperance 16 Esperance Admirality Bench Mark 1897 Esperance Harbour, Esperance 17 Esperance Hospital 1925 Taylor Street, Esperance 18 Esperance Municipal Offices 1896 19 Andrew Street, Esperance 19 Esperance Shire Council Offices 1992 Windich Street, Esperance 20 Fresh Air League 1920s Goldfields Road, Esperance 21 Gabtoobitch 1903 Cape Arid, Esperance 22 Gibson Soak 1896 Gibson Townsite, Gibson 23 Gilmore's Temperance Hotel-Scaddan c1915 South West Cnr Coolgardie - Esperance Highway and Raszyk Road, Scaddan 24 Grass Patch Farm Homestead 1904 Tom Starcevich VC Road, Grass Patch 25 Grass Patch Cemetery 1917 Crown Land Loc 235 26 Grass Patch Hotel 1926-7 8 Thompson Street, Grass Patch 27 Grass Patch Store 1926-7 14 Thompson Street, Grass Patch 28 Headmaster's House 1933 Museum Park, Esperance 29 Hill Springs 1903 Cape Arid, Esperance 30 Israelite Bay Post and Telegraph 1895 Station and Buildings 31 Kangawarrie Tank 1880s 8 kms due north of Mt Esmond 32 1 Lynburn Station 1872 Thomas River

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Place No NAME DATE ADDRESS 33 McCarthy's House 1919 16 The Esplanade, Esperance 34 Middle Island 1835 Recherche Archipelago Nature Reserve, Cape Arid 35 Moirs 'Fanny Cove Homestead' 0872 Stokes National Park, Esperance 36 Morton Bay Fig Tree 1897 Cnr William/Dempster Streets 37 Murtadinia Dam 1880s Ten kilometres NNE of Balbinya, Esperance 38 Newtown Jetty 1894 Castletown Quays, Esperance 39 Norfolk Pine Trees 1896 Andrew Street and Dempster Street, Esperance 40 Old Camping Ground 1893 The Esplanade, Esperance (near EPA Park) 41(a) Old Fish Cannery 1948 Norseman Road, Esperance 41(b) Tree at Old Fish Cannery Norseman Road, Esperance 42 Old Hospital - First Government 1896 1 A William Street, Esperance Hospital 43 OTC Wireless Station 1913 Lot 697 Cnr Off & Doust Streets, Esperance 44 Pine Hill Earth Dam 1874 Baladonia/Mt Ragged Road, Esperance 45 Pink Lake Salt Shed 1930s Collier Siding, Pink Lake Drive, Esperance 46 Police Sergeant's Quarters 6927 Museum Park, Esperance 47 Railway Dam & Catchment 1921-2 Dempster Head, Esperance 48(a) Station Master's Office/Railway Ticket 1927 Dempster Street, Esperance Office 48(b) Railway Waiting Room 1927 Dempster Street, Esperance 49 RSL Headquarters (1st School) 1895 Dempster Street, Esperance 50 Salmon Gums Hotel 1926-7 Salmon Gums Townsite, Salmon Gums 51 Salmon Gums Primary School 1906 Museum Park, Esperance 52 Seafarers Centre 1940s Dempster Street, Esperance 53 Tanker Jetty 1935 54 Tommy Windich Grave 1876 Lot 728 55 Tooklejenna 1890s 9.6 kilometres from Pt Malcolm 56 War Memorial 6924 Dempster Street, Esperance 57 Watering Places - Aboriginal Names on Mt Ragged Rd 58 Waterwitch Obelisk Reserve 1897 Cnr Jane & Black Street, Esperance 59 Wesleyan Church 1897 Museum Park, Esperance

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SHIRE OF ESPERANCE MUNICIPAL HERITAGE INVENTORY

LIST OF PLACES FOR FURTHER RESEARCH BY REVIEW COMMITTEE

1. Bowanya

2. Dempster Street House (Grey Starling Restaurant)

3. House in Dempster Street (near cnr William Street)

4. House in Emily Street

5. Memorial Grove

6. Nanambinya (Nanambinia)

7. Reserves: Cape Arid Nation Park Cape Le Grand National Park Cheetup Hill in Cape Le Grand National Park Recherche Archipelago Truslove Nature Reserve Alexander Rivermouth Quarry Bandi Cave Boyatup Art and Occupation Site Mt Ridley Art Site Peak Charles National Park

8. RSL Hall at Cascades

9. Schools: Esperance Primary School Esperance High School Castletown School Nulsen School

10. Shops in Dempster Street (opp original Post Office)

11. Sinclair's House - Taylor Street

12. Small houses in 'old' part of Esperance

13. Wind Farm

SHIRE OF ESPERANCE MUNICIPAL HERITAGE INVENTORY Page 4

SHIRE OF ESPERANCE MUNICIPAL HERITAGE INVENTORY

LIST OF HISTORIC SITES

Site No NAME DATE LOCATION OF SITE SIGNIFICANCE

SQl Dempster's Woolshed and 1876 East Loc 1, Built for James Dempster in 1875/76 by Jetty now 86 The Esplanade, stonemason Langham. The woolshed Esperance was linked by a tram line to the Now part of Esperance Bay Dempsters' Jetty, or 'Little Jetty', located Caravan Park south of Emily Street. The jetty was built in the 1870s to facilitate transporting sheep to the islands and unloading cargo from the lighters and longboats of the schooners of Sherratt, Thomas and McKenzie and later Douglas. Only small sloops and cutters could lie alongside and then only in calm weather.

S02 Telegraph Station, 1876 Lot 19 Reserve No 4107 This repeater station for the telegraph Esperance Bay link was a small, square timber weatherboard building. It had views up to Dempster's homestead. It was opened in September 1876 and was manned by George Stevens.

S03 First Police Station 1879 Govt Reserve 2434 After the murders of John Moir on 29.3.1877, and of John Dunn, a police presence in the district was desirable. In 1879 the police station and living quarters were built. It was a single storey building, with verandah, made of white limestone. Adjoining were a stable yard and a small two-roomed lock up. A new building was built on a new site on Lot 29 in 1926. This is the site of the present police station.

SO4 Esperance Hotel 1893 Andrew Steet/The The Esperance Hotel was built in 1893. Esplanade The front wall was clad with timber panels designed to resemble stone and the side walls were corrugated iron, as was the roof. A new two-storey hotel was built in 1896, which had 55 beds and included a saloon bar and billiard room. The building had a bullnosed verandah and wrought iron lacework. John Purchase was the first proprietor. The Esperance Hotel was destroyed by fire in 1958.

SHIRE OF ESPERANCE MUNICIPAL HERITAGE INVENTORY Page 5

S05 Pier Hotel 1894 Andrew Street The Pier Hotel was built in 1894 by Robert Symes. In 1896 the proprietor was Mrs S Gaul, and the licensee was Mrs Opie. In 1900 Josephine Heenan purchased the hotel, and her husband Michael was the licensee. The hotel was destroyed by fire in 1910.

S06 Grace Darling Hotel 1894 Built in 1894, the single storey Grace Darling Hotel was in the main street, facing the sea. Built of tin, it was on a corner block, and had a wooden verandah with lace iron trim. It was one of the group of hotels which sprang up in the mid 1890s as a result of the rush to the goldfields.

S07 Royal Hotel 1895 The two-storey Royal Hotel had the same patterned ironwork as the Esperance Hotel, with wooden verandah posts. A billiard room was added to the Royal, with a stone frontage and a skylight in the roof.

S08 Grass Patch Wayside Inn 1894 The Pub Paddock, This inn was one of the very few Loc. 10 Fitzgerald, stopping places for gold seekers on Grass Patch their way to the gold fields. Charles Donat Keyser applied for a Gallon Licence for "The Paddock", and it was soon upgraded to a wayside licence late in 1894. It was a timber and iron building. The pub was used until 1927 when the New Hotel was built 'in town', by the Heenans, who then owned the hotel.

S09 Esperance Cordial 1895 Lot 55 Dempster Street The corrugated iron factory was built Factory/Brewery in 1895 by E J McCarthy. The tower was designed by Thomas Edwards. It was first called the Esperance Cordial Factory and Brewery, and later became the Esperance Brewery Company, brewing its own 'Esperance Ale'. The company was bought by a Ravensthorpe based company in 1906 and it then traded as the Phillips River Brewery and Aerated Waters Co.

SHIRE OF ESPERANCE MUNICIPAL HERITAGE INVENTORY Page 6

S 10 Esperance Bay Jetty 1895 At the end of James St Built in 1895 to facilitate the loading (later called 'Old Jetty', and unloading of goods, the Esperance 'Town Jetty', 'James St Bay Jetty was extended between 1896 Jetty' after the 'New Jetty and 1898. At a point of 1285 feet the was built in 1935). structure was curved at an angle of 149°as the water was too shallow. The extensions were completed in March 1898. The jetty was significant for the development of the port and was finally completed and handed to the Customs Department early in 1898. It was demolished after 1973.

Sil Old Cemetery pre 1897 Pink Lake Road Between 1895 and 1897 there were a number of burials in the cemetery. Typhoid claimed two victims during that time. The ground was given to the Crickent Association and then, in July 1897, fourteen bodies were removed to a new cemetery (8'A acres) which is the present cemetery. Water was laid to the ground early in 1898. It is now the Esperance Football Oval.

S12 Post and Telegraph Office 1895 Original 19 Reserve No A Post and Telegraph Office was built 4107 in 1895-96. It was made of granite, Cur Andrew/Dempster with an iron roof, and was surrounded Streets by verandahs. The original pine tree, planted in the 1896, is still on the site. The old building was dismantled in the 1971 for Australia Post.

S13 Fire Brigade Stations 1898 Andrew Street A small timber framed building, with 1903 Dempster Street an iron roof and timber (weatherboard) walls, was built to house the Fire Brigade in 1898. The Esperance Fire Engine had arrived from England in 1897. In 1903 the station was moved to Lot 12 Dempster Street, where some parts of the building, eg the tower, were utilised in the new Fire Brigade Station. The demolition date is not certain.

SHIRE OF ESPERANCE MUNICIPAL HERITAGE INVENTORY Page 7

S14 St Andrew's Anglican 1896 Pink Lake Road Opened in 1896, the galvanised iron Church church building had a porch, a cross mounted on the gable of the roof, and a presbytery. Extensions were addded in about 1915. The church was demolished in 1962, and a new church was built in 1963. The old hail was used as the Op Shop until it was demolished in 1995. The rectory was also demolished in 1995 to make way for a church community hall.

S15 Salmon Gums Wayside Inn 1896 64 mile point, Esperance to The timber and galvanised iron Norseman Road, approx Wayside Inn was one of the wayside 1 km south of the present stopping places from Esperance to townsite Norsemen, for travellers on their way to the goldfields.

S16 Esperance School 1897 Formerly Recreation Ground The school, with limestone walls and a Lot 104-110 corrugated iron roof, was built in 1897 at a cost of 0,500. It was based on the plans of the Coolgardie School. The windows were placed on the wrong side, therefore the lighting was poor. A verandah ran the whole length of the building and down one sid.. Carved timber posts supported the'v6randah which had a dirt floor. New school buildings were erected in 1958 and the stone school was used for science and home science. The old school was demolished in 1962/63.

S17 Old Newtown Hail 1897 Built in 1895 by the Esperance Land Corporation. the corrugated iron building was raised on paper bark wood stilts. The hall had a tower, with space for a clock. A clock in the customs shed was donated by Mr Mathews for installation in the Fire Brigade Tower in Esperance. The clock tower was moved in 1947 to behind the shops in Dempster Street.

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S18 Water Condenser Sites 1895 Various sites, worked out Jocks Condenser 92 mile, 1895 according to the necessary Rest Dams 1920s- water of stock Fred Gilmores 90 mile 1930s Swan Lagoon Nature Reserve (Res No 8019)

Styles Rock Loc 66 Tank 5

Red Lake Loc 115 Tank

58 Mile Lewis' Circle Valley Loc257 Tank Loc 600 Tank 17

ESG Loc 516 Tank 2

Challenger Soak Loc 231 (65 mls NW of Salmon Gums) Loc298 Tank 1 Loc 196 Tank 15

Water (Dam Site) Loc 211 Loc 562 Tank 16 Loc499 Tank 18

S19 Butcher's Shop and House 1904 This was an example of a small galvanised iron house and shop, containing one or two rooms. It demonstrated the simplistic living style of the early settlers.

S20 Synnot's House & Aerated 0915 69 Windich Street The house was built around 1915. The Water Factory owner, R Synnot. who was a prominent business man and owner of the salt company, also built a factory for mineral waters. It was originally nearer the Esplanade, but it was moved alongside the house in 1927. It is suggested that the house utilised 'recycled materials' eg a bullnose verandah from the old hotel. It was demolished in 1995, and some materials were saved and used, eg roof timbers, tin and doors for Deralinya Station.

S21 Esperance Tennis Club prior to Behind the old Pier Hotel The tennis club was formed in 1896 Courts 1915 and stone school building and these courts were built prior to (by this time the Municipal 1915. Offices).

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S22 Railway Salmon Gums 1925/27 The opening of the railway line from Esperance to Salmon Gums in 1925 and from Salmon Gums to Norseman in 1927 finally provided the link between Esperance and thegoldfields areas.

S23 Emily Street Taxi Service 1930 13 Emily Street The garage and taxi service were owned by a Mr Gilmore who operated a taxi service from 1949 until 1954. The taxi was used to bring children to school as settlements opened up on the outer circle of farms around Esperance. It is recorded that six children or more were put into the taxi for the trip to school.

Gordon Gilmore and his father also operated the State Machinery and Ford Agencies at Scaddan and Salmon Gums in 1929.

S24 First Esperance Shire 1965 Windich Street The brick building with metal decking Council Offices was opened as the municipal offices in 1965. A number of office additions were made to the original construction. The building was completeley demolished in Oct 1990 and the new Shire Offices have been built on the site.

SHIRE OF ESPERANCE MUNICIPAL HERITAGE INVENTORY