©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Yellowstone & Grand Teton NATIONAL PARKS
Around Yellowstone p126
Yellowstone National Park p44
Grand Teton National Park p166
Around Grand Teton p208
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Bradley Mayhew, Carolyn McCarthy PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD
Welcome to Yellowstone YELLOWSTONE Bechler Region...... 121 & Grand Teton...... 4 NATIONAL PARK . . . 44 Eating & Drinking. . . . . 121 Yellowstone & Grand Day Hikes...... 48 Mammoth Country . . . . 121 Teton National Roosevelt Country. . . . . 121 Parks Map...... 6 Mammoth Country . . . . . 48 Roosevelt Country. . . . . 55 Canyon Country...... 122 Yellowstone & Grand Geyser Country ...... 122 Teton’s Top 20 ...... 8 Canyon Country...... 57 Lake Country ...... 62 Lake Country ...... 123 Need to Know...... 18 Norris...... 65 Shopping...... 124 If You Like ...... 20 Geyser Country ...... 65 Month by Month. . . . . 23 Bechler Region...... 69 AROUND Itineraries ...... 25 Overnight Hikes. . . . . 70 YELLOWSTONE. . . 126 Canyon Country...... 70 Activities...... 30 Beartooth Route. . . . . 127 Lake Country ...... 72 Billings...... 127 Travel with Children. . . . 39 Geyser Country ...... 73 Red Lodge...... 130 Bechler Region...... 76 Beartooth Highway. . . . 133 Other Overnight Chief Joseph Hikes...... 77 Scenic Highway ...... 136 KAREN DESJARDIN / GETTY IMAGES © Driving...... 78 Cooke City...... 137 Geyser Trail...... 78 Wapiti Route...... 138 Cycling...... 79 Cody...... 138 Mammoth Country . . . . . 79 Wapiti Valley...... 143 Canyon Country...... 80 Paradise Valley Lake Country ...... 80 Route ...... 144 Geyser Country ...... 80 Livingston...... 144 Other Activities . . . . . 81 Paradise Valley...... 146 Sights...... 87 Gardiner...... 148 Mammoth Country . . . . . 87 Gallatin Route...... 152 CAPTIONCAPTIONGRAND TETON P189 P000 Roosevelt Country. . . . . 91 Bozeman...... 152 Canyon Country...... 93 Gallatin Valley...... 155 Lake Country ...... 98 Hebgen & Quake Lakes. . . 159 MATT MUNRO / GETTY IMAGES © Norris...... 102 West Yellowstone...... 160 Geyser Country ...... 105 Bechler Region...... 114 GRAND TETON Sleeping...... 115 NATIONAL PARK. . . . 166 Mammoth Country . . . . 115 Day Hikes...... 170 Roosevelt Country. . . . . 117 Colter Bay Region . . . . . 170 Canyon Country...... 118 Central Tetons ...... 173 Lake Country ...... 119 The Tetons via Idaho. . . . 176 Norris...... 120 Moose–Wilson Road . . . . 180
CAPTIONCAPTIONGENERAL STORE, P000 Geyser Country ...... 120 John D Rockefeller Jr GARDINER P148 Memorial Parkway. . . . . 182 Contents
UNDERSTAND
Overnight Hikes. . . . . 182 Central Tetons ...... 203 The Parks Cycling ...... 186 Moose...... 204 Today ...... 226 Summer Activities. . . . 189 Eating & Drinking. . . .. 204 History...... 228 Winter Activities...... 191 John D Rockefeller Jr Geology...... 237 Sights...... 192 Memorial Parkway. . . . . 205 Wildlife...... 242 John D Rockefeller Jr Colter Bay Region . . . . . 205 Memorial Parkway. . . . . 192 Central Tetons ...... 206 Conservation...... 251 Colter Bay Region . . . . . 194 Moose...... 206 Eastern Slopes...... 196 Central Tetons ...... 197 AROUND Moose–Wilson Road . . . . 200 GRAND TETON. . . . 208 Sleeping...... 201 Jackson...... 209 SURVIVAL John D Rockefeller Jr Jackson Hole...... 218 GUIDE Memorial Parkway. . . . . 201 Upper Wind Colter Bay Region . . . . . 202 River Valley ...... 222 Eastern Slopes...... 203 Idaho’s Teton Valley. . . . . 222 Clothing & Equipment...... 254 Directory A–Z...... 258 Transportation . . . . . 268 Health & Safety . . . . . 272 Index...... 280 Map Legend...... 287
SPECIAL FEATURES Travel with Children. . . . 39 Geology...... 237 Wildlife...... 242 Clothing & Equipment ...... 254 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 25
Itineraries
Mammoth •# R Bunsen Peak
Norris Yellowstone •# National
Madison Geyser Park River •# É Basin
Fairy Falls •# Old •# Yellowstone Lake Faithful Inn •# Lone Star
Geyser É
Grand Teton National Park Jackson Lake String Lake/ •#
Leigh Lake •# É Oxbow Bend Lake Solitude •# •#Jenny Lake Drive
•# Mormon Row
1 WEEK Yellowstone & Grand Teton Overview
Start in Mammoth, taking the morning to climb Bunsen Peak for the fantastic views, before paying a brief visit to Mammoth Hot Springs and driving to Norris Geyser Basin. Continue to your reserved campsite at Madison for some early evening elk- and bison-spotting or fly-fishing on the Madison River. Spend the next two days in Geyser Country, hiking to either Fairy Falls or Sentinel Meadows for backcountry geysers and bison. Stay the night at historic Old Faithful Inn to experience the Upper Geyser Basin and the next day cycle out to Lone Star Geyser to catch a backcountry eruption. Drive south into Grand Teton and search for trumpeter swans at Oxbow Bend. Jenny Lake Drive is worth a linger for its awesome views of the Central Tetons. Enjoy a family trip to forested String and Leigh Lakes or join the crowds for Grand Teton’s most popular day hike up Cascade Canyon to Lake Solitude. Finally, cycle around Mormon Row for iconic views of barns and bison before heading south to Jackson for some R&R. 26
Mammoth Hot •#
Springs É É
É •# Roosevelt
Yellowstone Lodge Lamar É •# National Willow Park •# Valley Park PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN
É Dunraven RMt Washburn Norris Pass •# Yellowstone Loop, Geyser Cascade Lake North •# Porcelain Basin Picnic Area
Yellowstone Loop, Basin •# •# •# South É Grand Canyon of É the Yellowstone
É Hayden Valley It Firehole É
i nerar Swimming •# Area
Grand •# Lake
i es Prismatic •# Yellowstone
Spring Continental Hotel Divide É •# Yellowstone
Old •# Lake É •# Faithful Shoshone Lake
DAY Yellowstone Loop, DAY Yellowstone Loop, 1 North 1 South
This route through the north of the park The southern loop takes in epic Yellow- takes in some premier wildlife-watching, stone Lake, the park’s greatest geysers views of the Grand Canyon of the Yellow and a dip in the Firehole River. Starting in stone and a sampler of geysers and hot West Yellowstone adds 28 miles. springs. You’ll need to start early and stay Start the day with a scenic drive out late to fit it all in. around Yellowstone Lake and then Head straight to the Lamar Valley branch west from West Thumb over the around dawn to look for wolves, bears Continental Divide into Geyser Coun- and bison. Grab a ‘hiker’s breakfast’ at try. Check predicted eruption times at the Roosevelt Lodge then drive up to Dun- visitor center to catch Old Faithful and raven Pass to make the three- to four- others of the Upper Geyser Basin spout- hour return hike up Mt Washburn for the ers. Head north to Midway Geyser Basin park’s best views. Picnic amid the pines at and admire Grand Prismatic Spring, shady Cascade Lake picnic area or grab then blow off steam with the kids in the lunch on the go at Canyon. thermally heated Firehole Swimming further north. Gawp at the thundering falls and rusted Area colors of the Grand Canyon of the Continue north to the Porcelain Basin Yellowstone from Uncle Tom’s Trail and hot springs at Norris, grabbing a quick Artist Point on the southern rim, before lunch at peaceful Norris Meadows picnic driving to the geysers and hot springs of area, before turning east for views of the Norris Geyser Basin. Then swing north Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone from toward Mammoth, stopping en route to Uncle Tom’s Trail and Artist Point. Swing watch for moose at Willow Park. Stroll south through Hayden Valley for some the boardwalks at dusk to admire surreal prime sunset wildlife-watching before Palette Springs and Canary Springs at enjoying the park’s best food at Lake Mammoth Hot Springs, before collaps- Yellowstone Hotel’s dining room. ing in the bar back at Roosevelt Lodge for a well-deserved Old Faithful Ale. 27 PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries
MATT MUNRO / LONELY PLANET © Country Landing (p197) (p90), Mammoth Right: Boiling River Above: Schwabacher’s
DEAN FIKAR / SHUTTERSTOCK © 28
Indian Arts•# Museum É Jackson Lake •# Lodge •#Willow Flats Log Chapel of the Sacred Heart •# Grand Teton É National
PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Park Teton in a Day Inspiration •# Jackson Hole & the Tetons Point É
Moose Ponds Plains & •# É Panoramas Route •# É Schwabacher's
É Landing Dornan's f# Chuckwagon Menor's •# Ferry It É i nerar Hole in One Loop •#
É i es Stagecoach Bar •# Jackson Nora's Fish Creek Inn •# É •# Jackson Peak Snake River •# R Canyon É
Jackson Hole 1 DAY Teton in a Day 4 DAYS & the Tetons
Start with a hearty breakfast in Moose Fuel up with a classic breakfast of pan- at Dornan’s Chuckwagon, a pioneer- fried trout at Wilson’s Nora’s Fish Creek style camp serving flapjacks alfresco Inn, then saddle your road bike to ride the with great Teton views. Then glimpse the Hole in One loop – extra points for starting area’s fascinating homesteading history at from Wilson. Post-ride, opt for a brew at Menor’s Ferry; audio tours are available the award-winning Snake River Brewing for mobile phones. For excellent photo- Co, in Jackson. graphs, offers Schwabacher’s Landing On day two, hike out to scenic views the best panoramas of the Teton’s toothy at Inspiration Point and take the ferry Cathedral group. back for an easy return. Detour to Moose Get off the road and into the wilderness Ponds to snag a glimpse of its namesake with a short hike to the glacial moraines ungulates. For sunset views, rumble your cupping Taggart and Bradley Lakes. Bring pickup along the dirt roads of the Plains swimsuits and take a dip from Taggart’s & Panoramas route. eastern edge if it’s warm enough. After- On day three, take a white-water raft- wards, take the short drive to the Log ing trip down the Snake River Canyon. and spread Chapel of the Sacred Heart Later, treat yourself to a pan-roasted elk your blanket for a picnic at the edge of the chop at Snake River Grill and take in some pines. culture at the modern Center for the Arts, Nearby, there’s incredible Native Amer- both in Jackson. ican beadwork at the Indian Arts Mu- On your final day, join the locals power- seum. End your outing watching wildlife ing up Jackson Peak for valley views of at ; there’s usually a moose Willow Flats the Tetons. Make your last night count at munching in the dusky light. Finally, cap the Stagecoach Bar, the liveliest road- your day at and Jackson Lake Lodge house around. down a huckleberry margarita at the Blue Heron. 29
Museum of •# the Rockies Yellowstone, Big Loop Yellowstone to Paradise
É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN •# Chico Hot Springs
Paradise Valley Red
•# Lodge É
Yellowstone É •# Beartooth Lake Gardiner River Picnic •#
•# •# Mammoth É Beaver Ponds É Area It •# th Beartoo i nerar •# •# Lamar Valley wy Willow Park •# H
É Fossil Forest
Trail É
Norris Geyser Basin i es •# •# South Rim Trail & Ribbon Lake É •# Hayden Valley Yellowstone National
•# •# Elephant Back Mountain Geyser Basins •# Park É •# É Yellowstone Lake Old Faithful Inn •# •# West Thumb Geyser Basin
4 Yellowstone, 1 Yellowstone DAYS Big Loop WEEK to Paradise
From Mammoth head to some early morn- Add this three-day scenic drive onto the Yel- ing wildlife viewing in the Lamar Valley lowstone, Big Loop itinerary and you’ll get before enjoying the crowd-free views of a fantastic week of scenic drives, park high- the Narrows on the Yellowstone River lights and even a trip through Paradise. hike. Continue south to Picnic Area From Red Lodge, budget half a day Canyon to take the South Rim Trail & to drive the Beartooth Hwy, stopping to Ribbon Lake hike before overnighting in stretch your legs at Beartooth Lake. Over- Canyon Village. night in Cooke City, then enter the park for The next day try some more early morn- some early wildlife-watching in Lamar ing wildlife-watching in Hayden Valley Valley and a hunt for petrified trees on the before continuing south to hike Elephant Fossil Forest Trail, before joining the Yel- Back Mountain for great views of Yellow lowstone, Big Loop itinerary at Canyon for stone Lake. After a lakeshore picnic on two days’ excursions to Mammoth. the sand bars around Gull Point, continue Heading north from Mammoth on day south to the hot springs of West Thumb six, squeeze in a morning rafting trip or Geyser Basin before heading west across horseback ride from Gardiner before con- the Continental Divide to overnight at Old tinuing north through the lovely Paradise Faithful Inn. Valley to relax with a hot soak and gourmet Spend day three visiting the geyser dinner at Chico Hot Springs. Continue to basins, and the next day drive to Mammoth Bozeman on your last day to spend a few via Norris Geyser Basin, arriving at hours at the Museum of the Rockies and lunchtime to stroll the travertine terraces do some last-minute shopping. at . Either take a guided walk Mammoth Alternatively, spend all your time in through historical Fort Yellowstone or a the park and throw in some more hiking, dusk hike to spot wildlife on the Beaver preferably the Sepulcher Mountain hike, trail. Ponds an overnight hike to Heart Lake or even a three-day canoe trip around Shoshone Lake. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 287
Map Legend
Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Eating Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Parking Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Cafe Taxi Park/Forest Train station/Railway Entertainment Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide,Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS
Bradley Mayhew Yellowstone National Park, Around Yellowstone An expat Brit, Bradley currently calls Yellowstone County, Montana home and hikes the parks and nearby Bear- tooth Plateau every chance he gets. Half a lifetime of travel through Central Asia, Tibet and Mongolia has made him feel quite at home in Big Sky country. He was the coordinating author of the first three editions of this guide and is the coordinating author of many Lonely Planet guides, including Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya and Central Asia. See what he’s currently up to at www. bradleymayhew.blogspot.com. Bradley also wrote the Plan section, and Clothing & Equipment and Directory A–Z chapters. Read more about Bradley at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/nepalibrad
Carolyn McCarthy Grand Teton National Park, Around Grand Teton When not roaming the Tetons with an eye out for grizzly scat, Carolyn can be found in Patagonia. She has contributed to more than 30 titles for Lonely Planet, including Trekking in the Patagonian Andes, Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks, Chile, Argentina and Peru. She has written for National Geographic, Outside and Boston Globe, among other publications. She also teaches travel writing at Grub Street in Boston. Follow her adventures on Instagram @masmerquen and Twitter @roamingMcC. Carolyn also wrote the Understand section, and Transportation and Health & Safety chapters.
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