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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Yellowstone & NATIONAL PARKS

Around Yellowstone p129

Yellowstone National Park p46

Grand Teton National Park p168

Around Grand Teton p211

Benedict Walker, Bradley Mayhew, Carolyn McCarthy, Christopher Pitts PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Yellowstone YELLOWSTONE Other Overnight & Grand Teton National NATIONAL PARK . . . 46 Hikes...... 81 Parks...... 4 Driving...... 82 Day Hikes...... 50 Yellowstone & Grand Cycling...... 82 Teton National Mammoth Country . . . . . 51 Mammoth Country . . . . . 82 Parks Map...... 6 Roosevelt Country. . . . . 57 Canyon Country...... 83 Yellowstone & Grand Canyon Country...... 60 Lake Country ...... 83 Teton’s National Lake Country ...... 63 Parks’ Top 20 ...... 8 Geyser Country ...... 84 Norris...... 65 Need to Know...... 18 Geyser Country ...... 66 Other Activities . . . . . 85 If You Like ...... 20 Bechler Region...... 69 Sights...... 90 Mammoth Country . . . . . 90 Month by Month. . . . . 23 Overnight Hikes. . . . . 70 Roosevelt Country...... 94 Itineraries ...... 25 Canyon Country...... 74 Canyon Country...... 97 Activities...... 30 Lake Country ...... 75 Lake Country ...... 101 Travel with Children. . . . 39 Geyser Country ...... 77 Norris...... 105 Travel with Pets . . . . . 43 Bechler Region...... 79 Y LIU/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGE © KEVINCASS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

YELLOWSTONE RIVER P57 CHASEDEKKER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

OWL, GRAND TETON JACKSON HOLE P221 NATIONAL PARK P168 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Geyser Country ...... 108 GRAND TETON The Parks Today. . . . . 228 Bechler Region...... 117 NATIONAL PARK. . . . 168 History...... 230 Sleeping...... 117 Day Hikes...... 172 Geology...... 239 Mammoth Country . . . . 119 Colter Bay Region . . . . . 172 Wildlife...... 244 Roosevelt Country...... 120 Central Tetons ...... 175 Canyon Country...... 121 The Tetons via Idaho. . . . 178 Conservation. . . . . 253 Lake Country ...... 121 Moose–Wilson Road . . . . 180 Norris...... 122 John D Rockefeller Jr Geyser Country ...... 123 Memorial Parkway. . . . . 182 SURVIVAL Bechler Region...... 124 Overnight Hikes. . . . . 182 GUIDE Eating & Drinking. . . . 124 Cycling ...... 188 Summer Activities. . . . 190 Clothing Mammoth Country . . . . 124 & Equipment...... 256 Roosevelt Country. . . . . 124 Winter Activities. . . . . 193 Directory A–Z...... 260 Canyon Country...... 125 Sights...... 196 Geyser Country ...... 125 John D Rockefeller Jr Transportation . . . . . 270 Memorial Parkway. . . . . 196 Lake Country ...... 126 Health & Safety . . . . . 274 Grassy Lake Road ...... 196 Shopping...... 127 Colter Bay Region . . . . . 197 Index...... 281 Eastern Slopes...... 199 Map Legend...... 287 AROUND Central Tetons ...... 199

YELLOWSTONE. . . 129 Moose–Wilson Road . . . . 203 TOMREICHNER/SHUTTERSTOCK © Beartooth Route. . . . . 132 Sleeping...... 204 Billings...... 132 John D Rockefeller Jr Red Lodge...... 134 Memorial Parkway. . . . . 204 Beartooth Highway. . . . 136 Colter Bay Region . . . . . 205 Chief Joseph Eastern Slopes...... 206 Scenic Byway...... 139 Central Tetons ...... 207 Cooke City...... 140 Moose...... 207 Wapiti Route...... 141 Eating & Drinking. . . . 207 Cody...... 141 John D Rockefeller Jr Wapiti Valley...... 146 Memorial Parkway. . . . . 207 P246 Paradise Valley Colter Bay Region . . . . . 207 Route ...... 147 Central Tetons ...... 208 Livingston...... 147 Moose...... 209 SPECIAL Paradise Valley...... 149 FEATURES Gardiner...... 151 AROUND Travel with Children. . . 39 Gallatin Route...... 154 GRAND TETON. . . . . 211 Bozeman...... 154 Jackson...... 213 Geology...... 239 Gallatin Valley...... 158 Jackson Hole...... 221 Wildlife...... 244 Hebgen & Upper Wind Clothing & Quake Lakes...... 161 River Valley ...... 224 Equipment ...... 256 West Yellowstone. . . . . 163 Idaho’s Teton Valley. . . . . 224 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 25

Itineraries

Mammoth •# R

Norris Yellowstone Madison •# Geyser National

River Park •# É Basin

Fairy Falls •# Old •# Faithful Inn •# Lone Star

Geyser É

Grand Teton National Park Jackson Lake

String Lake/ É •# Leigh Lake •# Oxbow Bend Cascade Canyon •# •#Jenny Lake Drive

•# Mormon Row

1 WEEK Yellowstone & Grand Teton Overview

Start in Mammoth, taking the morning to climb Bunsen Peak for the fantastic views, before paying a brief visit to Mammoth Hot Springs and driving to Norris Geyser Basin. Continue to your reserved campsite at Madison for some early evening elk- and bison-spotting or fly-fishing on the . Spend the next two days in Geyser Country, hiking to either Fairy Falls or Sentinel Meadows for backcountry geysers and bison. Stay the night at historic Inn to experience the Upper Geyser Basin and the next day cycle out to to catch a backcountry eruption. Drive south into Grand Teton and search for trumpeter swans at Oxbow Bend. Jenny­ Lake Dr is worth a linger for its awesome views of the Central Tetons. Enjoy a family trip to forested String and Leigh Lakes or join the crowds for Grand Teton’s most popular day hike up Cascade Canyon to Lake Solitude. Finally, cycle around Mormon Row for iconic views of barns and bison before heading south to Jackson for some R&R. 26

Mammoth Hot •#

Springs É É

É •# Roosevelt

Yellowstone Lodge Lamar É •# National Willow Park •# Valley Park PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

É Dunraven RMt Washburn Norris Pass •# Yellowstone Loop, Geyser Cascade Lake North •# Porcelain Basin Picnic Area

Yellowstone Loop, Basin •# •# •# South É Grand Canyon of É the Yellowstone

É Hayden

It Firehole Valley É i nerar Swimming •# Area

Grand •# Lake i es Prismatic •# Yellowstone

Spring Continental Hotel Divide É •# Yellowstone

Old •# Lake É •# Faithful

DAY Yellowstone DAY Yellowstone 1 Loop, North 1 Loop, South

This route through the north of the park The southern loop takes in epic Yellow- takes in some premier wildlife-watching, stone Lake, the park’s greatest geysers views of the Grand Canyon of the Yellow­ and a dip in the . Starting in stone and a sampler of geysers and hot West Yellowstone adds 28 miles. springs. You’ll need to start early and stay Start the day with a scenic drive around out late to fit it all in. Yellowstone Lake and then branch west Head straight to the Lamar Valley from West Thumb over the Continen- around dawn to look for wolves, bears tal Divide into Geyser Country. Check and bison. Grab a ‘hiker’s breakfast’ at predicted eruption times at the visitor Roosevelt Lodge, then drive up to Dun- center to catch Old Faithful and others raven Pass to make the three- to four- of the Upper Geyser Basin spouters. Head hour return hike up Mt Washburn for the north to Midway Geyser Basin and admire park’s best views. Picnic amid the pines at Grand Prismatic Spring, then blow shady Cascade Lake picnic area or grab off steam with the kids in the thermally lunch on the go at Canyon. heated Firehole Swimming Area further north. Gawp at the thundering falls and rusted colors of the Grand Canyon of the Yel- Continue north to the Porcelain Basin lowstone from Uncle Tom’s Trail and hot springs at Norris, grabbing a quick Artist Point on the southern rim, before lunch at peaceful Norris Meadows picnic driving to the geysers and hot springs of area, before turning east for views of the Norris Geyser Basin. Then swing north Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone from toward Mammoth, stopping en route to Uncle Tom’s Trail and Artist Point. Swing watch for moose at Willow Park. Stroll south through for some the boardwalks at dusk to admire surreal prime sunset wildlife-watching before Palette Springs and Canary Springs at enjoying the park’s best food at Lake Mammoth Hot Springs, before collaps- ­Yellowstone Hotel Dining Room. ing in the bar back at Roosevelt Lodge for a well-deserved Old Faithful Ale. 27

Indian Arts É Museum •# Grand Teton National

Jackson Lake É Park Lodge •# É •# Inspiration Willow Flats Moose Ponds Point É •# •# Table •# •# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Log Chapel •# Plains &

É of the É Panoramas É Sacred Heart Route Grand Teton National Park Hole in One Loop •# É

Schwabacher's É

É Landing •# It

É i nerar É •#

É É Stagecoach É •# Jackson f# Menor's Bar; Dornan's É

Ferry i es Chuckwagon •# Nora's Fish Creek Inn É

É Canyon •#

Jackson Hole 1 DAY Teton in a Day 4 DAYS & the Tetons

Start with a hearty breakfast in Moose Fuel up with a classic breakfast of pan- at Dornan’s Chuckwagon, a pioneer- fried trout at Wilson’s Nora’s Fish Creek style camp serving flapjacks alfresco Inn, then saddle your road bike to ride the with great Teton views. Then glimpse the Hole in One loop – extra points for start- area’s fascinating homesteading history at ing from Wilson. Post-ride, opt for a brew Menor’s Ferry; audio tours are available at the award-winning Snake River Brewing for cell phones. For excellent photographs, Co, in Jackson. offers the best Schwabacher’s Landing On day two, hike out to scenic views panoramas of the Teton’s toothy Cathedral at Inspiration Point and take the ferry group. back for an easy return. Detour to Moose Get off the road and into the wilderness Ponds to snag a glimpse of its namesake with a short hike to the glacial moraines ungulates. For sunset views, rumble your cupping Taggart and Bradley Lakes. Bring pickup along the dirt roads of the Plains swimsuits and take a dip from Taggart’s & Panoramas route. eastern edge if it’s warm enough. After- On day three, take a white-water raft- wards, take the short drive to the Log ing trip down the Snake River Canyon. and spread Chapel of the Sacred Heart Later, treat yourself to a pan-roasted elk your blanket for a picnic at the edge of the chop at Snake River Grill and take in some pines. culture at the modern Center for the Arts, Nearby, there’s incredible Native Ameri- both in Jackson. can beadwork at the Indian Arts Mu- On your final day, get an early start to seum. End your outing watching wildlife power up for a challeng- at ; there’s usually a moose Willow Flats ing hike with big backside views of the munching in the dusky light. Finally, cap Tetons. Make your last night count at the your day at Jackson Lake Lodge and Stagecoach Bar, the liveliest roadhouse down a huckleberry margarita at the Blue around. Heron. KRIS WIKTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK © ), 104 ) 202 Above: Cascade Cascade Above: (p Canyon Left: Black Pool (p West Thumb Geyser Basin

MATT MUNRO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Itineraries

PLAN YOUR TRIP 28 29

Museum of •# the Rockies Yellowstone, Big Loop Yellowstone to Paradise

É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN •# Chico Hot Springs

Paradise Valley Red

•# Lodge É

Yellowstone É •# Beartooth Lake

Gardiner River Picnic •# Mammoth É Beaver Ponds •# •# É Area It

•# th i nerar Beartoo •# •# Lamar Valley wy Willow Park •# H

É Fossil Forest

Trail É

Norris Geyser Basin i es •# •# South Rim Trail & Ribbon Lake É •# Hayden Valley Yellowstone National

•# •# Elephant Back Mountain Geyser Basins •# Park É •# É Yellowstone Lake •# •# West Thumb Geyser Basin

4 Yellowstone, 1 Yellowstone DAYS Big Loop WEEK to Paradise

From Mammoth head to some early morn- Add this three-day scenic drive onto the ing wildlife viewing in the Lamar Valley Yellowstone, Big Loop itinerary and before enjoying the crowd-free views of you’ll get a fantastic week of scenic drives, the Narrows on the park highlights and even a trip through ­Picnic Area hike. Continue south to Paradise. Canyon to take the South Rim Trail & From Red Lodge, allow half a day to hike before overnighting in Ribbon Lake drive the US’s most scenic 70 miles, the Canyon Village. Beartooth Hwy, stopping to stretch your The next day try some more early morn- legs at Beartooth Lake. Overnight in ing wildlife-watching in Hayden Valley Cooke City, then enter the park for some before continuing south to hike Elephant early wildlife-watching in Lamar Valley Back Mountain for great views of Yellow­ and a hunt for petrified trees on the Fossil stone Lake. After a lakeshore picnic on Forest Trail, before joining the Yellow- the sand bars around Gull Point, continue stone, Big Loop itinerary at Canyon for south to the hot springs of West Thumb two days’ excursions to Mammoth. before heading west across Geyser Basin Heading north from Mammoth on day the to overnight at Old six, squeeze in a morning rafting trip or Faithful Inn. horseback ride from Gardiner before Spend day three visiting the geyser ­continuing north through the lovely Para- ­basins, and the next day drive to Mammoth dise Valley to relax with a hot soak and via Norris Geyser Basin, arriving at gourmet dinner at Chico Hot Springs. lunchtime to stroll the travertine terraces Continue to Bozeman on your last day at Mammoth. Either take a guided walk to spend a few hours at the Museum of through historical Fort Yellowstone or a the Rockies and do some last-minute dusk hike to spot wildlife on the Beaver ­shopping. Ponds trail. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 280

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

my home for a while. Thanks to the Climbers WRITER THANKS Ranch for providing an excellent base camp. Bradley Mayhew I am also grateful to Andrew White, the San- Thanks to the almost-always professional telices family, Drew Hardesty and the friends ­Carolyn McCarthy for being a dream co-­writer, who shared my campfire. Lastly, a shout out and for joining me on that Shoshone Lake trek. goes to co-writer Bradley Mayhew for his dedi- Rick Hoeninghausen and Cameron Walker of cation in the field. Yellowstone National Park Lodges were gener- ous with their time. Cheers to ­Celeste, Wendy and Sandra for making the Ice Lake author ACKNOWLEDGMENTS meeting such fun. Goodbye Montana, you have Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, been one of my favorite places and I will miss Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated you. World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Carolyn McCarthy Sciences, 11, 1633–44. I am very thankful for another opportunity to explore this amazing wilderness and call it Cover photograph: Brown bear, West ­Yellowstone, Maresa Pryor-Luzier/AWL ©

editions. This guidebook was ­Mulvaney, Lauren O’Connell, THIS BOOK produced by the following: Maja Vatrić This 5th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Ben Cartographers Anita Banh, Planet’s Yellowstone & Grand Buckner Corey Hutchison Teton National Parks guide Senior Product Editors Cover Researcher Naomi was curated by Benedict Victoria Smith, Kate Mathews Parker Walker, and researched and Carolyn Boicos Thanks to Anthony Barreiro, written by Bradley Mayhew, Product Editor Evan Godt, Nancy Leon, Anne Carolyn McCarthy and Christo- Senior Cartographer Alison Lyall Mason, Clinton Milroy, Theresa pher Pitts. Bradley and Caro- Montag, Peter Mutton, Monique Book Designer Jessica Rose lyn also wrote the previous two Perrin, Alison Ridgway, Ross Assisting Editors Sarah Taylor Bailey, James Bainbridge, Anne ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 281

Index

A Paradise Valley 149-50 Boiling River 91 Cathedral Rock 54 accessible travel 260 Yellowstone National Park books 228 cats 249 accommodations 260-5, see 16, 16 geology 241 Celestine Pool 115 also individual locations backpacks 257 history 231, 233, 237 cell phones 18 activities 22, 23-4, 30-8, see bald eagles 249 plants 251 Central Tetons 200-1 also individual activities 95 wildlife 250 accommodations 207 air travel 270 Basin Lakes 187 Bozeman 154-8 food 208-9 Alaska Basin 180, 187 bathrooms 267 Bradley Lake 178 hiking 175-8, 176 altimeters 257 bear spray 259 breweries 133, 157 sights 199-203 altitude sickness 275 Bearpaw Lake 175 Bridger, Jim 86 Chico Hot Springs 149, 21 amoebic dysentery 275 bears 229, 244-5, 8-9 brucellosis 248 Chief Joseph Scenic Byway Amphitheater Lake 177 safety 275-6 budgeting 19 139-40 animals 244-51, see also Beartooth Highway 16, Buffalo Bill 145 children, travel with 15, individual species 136-9 138, 16 Buffalo Bill Scenic Byway 39-42 Antelope Bear Management Beartooth Route 132-41 146 Christian Pond 197 Area 74 Beaver Lake 94 Buffalo Bill State Park 142 churches Antelope Flats 182 Bechler Meadows 70 Bunsen Peak 94 Chapel of the Apollinaris Spring 94 Bechler Region bus travel 270-1, 272 ­Transfiguration 194 apps 249, 257, 258 accommodations 124 business hours 266 Log Chapel of the Sacred area codes 267 Heart 194 hiking 69-70, 79-81, 70, 80 art galleries, see galleries Mammoth Chapel 93 sights 14, 117, 14 C Clarks Fork Canyon 140 Artist Paint Pots 106 beer 133, 157 Calcite Springs 57 Clear Lake 60 Artist Point 60, 99 Beula Lake 70 Calcite Springs Overlook 96 climate 18, 23-4, 264 Astringent Creek 64 bicycling, see cycling campfire programs 40 climate change 254 astronomy 122 Big Sky Resort 13, 158 ATMs 269 camping 117-18, 205-6, climbing 32-3 bighorn sheep 248 260-3 Bozeman 155 Billings 132-4 canoeing 35, 86, 87, 137, Cody 142 B birds 249-50, see also 175, 192, 202, 35 see Back Basin 106 individual species also kayaking Grand Teton National Park 12, 190, 12 backcountry permits Biscuit Basin 66, 114 Canyon Country 98-9 Jackson Hole 222 Grand Teton National Biscuit Basin Overlook 67 accommodations 121 clothing 256 Park 189 bison 247-8, 276-7, 72, 184 cycling 83 Cody 141-6, Yellowstone National bites 277 drinking 125 143 Cody Stampede 24 Park 71 Black Canyon of the food 125 Colter Bay Region 198 backcountry trips 33, ­Yellowstone 81 hiking 60-3, 74-5, 61, 74 20-1, 116 accommodations 205-6 Black Growler Steam Vent sights 97-101 backpacking 30-2, see also 106 food 207-8 Canyon Village 97, 100 hikes (overnight) Black Sand Basin 114 hiking 172-5, car travel 18, 271-3, see also 174 Beartooth Highway Blacktail Butte 199 sights 197, 199 137, 139 scenic drives Blacktail Ponds 93, 182 Colter, John 231-2, 233 Gallatin Valley 159 Grand Teton National boating, see also canoeing, Park 210 conservation 253-4 Grand Teton National Park kayaking, rafting road distances 46, 129, consulates 269 10, 11 Grand Teton National Park 168, 211, 273 Continental Divide 104 190, 192-3, 202 Yellowstone National Continental Divide Trail 32 Yellowstone National Park 128 Cooke City 140-1 Map Pages 000 Park 85-7 Cascade Canyon 202, 28 costs 95, 262, 264, 265 Photo Pages 000 bobcats 249 282 courses 22, 265 environmental issues 228- galleries, see also glaciation & glaciers 245 9, 237-8, 242, 253-4 ­museums 239, 243 Cunningham Cabin 194 equipment 256-9 Carbon County Arts Glacier Lake 134 Custer, General George evacuations 279 Guild Gallery 134 golden eagles 249 24, 132 events 23-4 Yellowstone Art Museum Golden Gate 94 Custer’s Last Stand Everts, Truman 93 132 GPS 256-7

INDEX INDEX ­Reenactment 24 Excelsior Pool, 114-15 Gardiner 151-4, 152-3 Grand Canyon of the cycling 33-4, 272, see also exchange rates 19 Garnet Canyon 177-8, 190 Yellowstone 10, 57, 97-9, mountain biking gay travelers 266 242, 10 Bunsen Peak Road & Grand Prismatic Spring 12,

C-G geology 229, 239-43  Osprey Falls 83 F geothermal features 20, 69, 114-15, 12, 15

& Fountain Freight Road farmers markets 220 239, 240-2, 277, see Grand Targhee Ski  84-5 festivals 23-4 also fumeroles, geysers, Summer Resort 226 Grand Teton National films 228 hot springs Grand Teton 12, 190, 12 Park 188-90 fir trees 251 Geyser Country 110, 112-13 Grand Teton Music Festival Hole in One 189-90 Firehole Canyon Drive accommodations 123 24 Jackson 216 115-16 cycling 84-5 Grand Teton National Park Mormon Row 188-9 Firehole Lake Drive 115 drinking 125 10, 12, 168-210, 170-1, , , , Mt Washburn 83 Firehole Swimming Area fishing 89 11 12 184 185 accommodations 168, Natural Bridge 83 116 food 125 204-7 Old Gardiner Road 82-3 fires 237-8, 253-4, 279 hiking 66-9, 77-9, , 67 backcountry permits 189 Paradise Valley 150 fish 250-1 78-9 boating 190, 192-3, 202 safety 279 fishing 17, 36 sights 108-17 climbing 12, 190, 12 Shadow Mountain Cody 142 skiing 90 cycling 188-90 189 Bozeman 155 Geyser Hill 111 drinking 207-9 West Yellowstone 164 Gallatin River 17, 159­ -60, geysers 20, 107, 241, see Yellowstone National 17 also hot springs entrances 169 Park 82-5 Grand Teton National Anemone Geyser 108 food 207-9 Park 193 108 fishing 193 Jenny Lake 203 Biscuit Basin 114 hiking 168, 172-88 D Livingston 148 history 236 dangers, see safety Black Sand Basin 114 Paradise Valley 150 horseback riding 190 Dead Indian Pass 139 111 Wapiti Valley 147 internet resources 169 Death Canyon trail 180, 108 West Yellowstone 165 187-8 Geyser Hill 111 reservations 169 Yellowstone National dehydration 278 Great Fountain Geyser road distances 168 Park 87-9 disabilities, travelers with 115 rules & permits 210 Fishing Bridge 103 260 Geyser safety 208 Disappointment Peak 177 Flagg Canyon 182 Basin 75 scenic drives 191, 194, documentaries 228 Floating Island Lake 93 Imperial Geyser 69 191, 194 dogsledding 38, 149, 215 fly-fishing, see fishing Lone Star Geyser 68, 72 sights 196-204 Driggs 225 food 265, see also Lower Geyser Basin skiing 195-6 individual­ locations driving, see car travel 115-17 snowmobiling 195 footwear 256 driving tours, see scenic Midway Geyser Basin tourist offices 209 drives Fort Yellowstone 91-2 114-15 travel within 210 dude ranches 261 Fountain Flat Drive 115 Monument Geyser 66 wildlife-watching 182 Fountain Paint Pot 115 Norris Geyser Basin 17, Grand View Point 174-5, 197 105-6, foxes 245 17 Grandview Point 98 E Old Faithful 9, 109, free attractions 95 9 Granite Hot Springs 223-4 eagles 249 Porcelain Basin 106 free park admission 264 104 earthquakes 162, 243 Queen’s Laundry Geyser frostbite 278 Grasshopper Glacier 243 electricity 265 67-8 fumaroles 242, see also Grassy Lake Reservoir 196 elk 106, 213, 246-7, 3, 185 individual fumeroles Rustic Geyser 76 Grassy Lake Road 196 Elk Park 106 safety 277 Grizzly & Wolf Discovery embassies 269 Shoshone Geyser Center 163 emergencies 275 G Basin 78 Gallatin Petrified Forest grizzly bears 163, 229, Solitary Geyser 111 entrance fees 18 150 ­244-5, 8-9 Spray Geyser 69 Gallatin River 17, ­159-60, Gros Ventre River 191 106 17 Gros Ventre Slide Area Map Pages 000 Gallatin Route 154-67 Whirligig Geyser 106 199, 223 Photo Pages 000 Gallatin Valley 158-61 giardia 278 Gull Point Drive 103 283 H Ice Lake Trail 107 Black Canyon of the Red Lodge 134-5 Hayden Valley 100-1, 72 John D Rockefeller Jr Yellowstone 81 Roosevelt Country 57-60, health 274-9 Memorial Parkway 182 Bliss Pass 81 81, 58 Relocation Lake Fork Trail 134 Coffin Lakes 161 Tetons via Idaho 178-80, Center 144 Lake Solitude 175-6, 176 Continental Divide 179 heat exhaustion 278 Lava Lake 159 Trail 32 historic sites heatstroke 278 Leigh & Bearpaw Lakes Fawn Pass Trail 81 Fort Yellowstone 91-2 INDEX Hebgen Lake 161-3 175, 176 Gallatin Skyline 81 Heart Mountain Hemingway, Ernest 141 Lone Star Geyser 68, 67 Heart Lake & Mt ­Relocation Center 144

-Sheridan 75-6,  H­ Hermitage Point 173 Lost Lake 58-9, 58 76 Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument

Marion Lake & Death  H Heron Pond 173 Monument Geyser Basin Canyon 187-8, 188 132 hikes (day) 31, see also 65-6, 66 Mt Holmes 81 Oregon Short Line hikes (overnight), Mt Washburn 61-2, 61 Mt Washburn & Railway Car 163 ­hiking, hiking (by & Biscuit ­Sevenmile Hole Pompey’s Pillar National region) Basin 66-7, 67 74-5, Monument 132 Avalanche Peak 65, 64 74 North Rim Trail 99 history 230-8 Basin Lakes National North Shoshone Lake Osprey Falls 55, 51 hitchhiking 273 Recreation Trail 134 & Shoshone Geyser Pebble Creek Trail 60 Basin 77-9, 78-9 Hole in One 189-90 Beartooth High Lakes Pelican Valley 63-5, Trail 137 64 Paintbrush Divide 182-3, holidays 266-7 Phelps Lake Trail 181-2, Beaver Ponds Trail 183 Holly Lake 183 51-2, 51 181 Sky Rim Trail 81 hoodoos 94 Pine Creek Lake 149 Bechler Meadows & Falls Sportsman Lake Trail 81 horseback riding 34 70, 70 Riddle Lake Trail 65 Teton Crest Trail 186-7, Gallatin Valley 160 Blacktail Deer Creek Trail Rock Island Lake 139 186 Grand Targhee Ski & 57, 51 Sentinel Meadows & hiking 15, 30-2, see also Summer Resort 226 Blue Danube Lake 161 Queen’s Laundry hikes (day), hikes Grand Teton National Geyser 67-8, 67 (overnight), hiking (by Park 190 Buffalo Horn Pass 150 region) Jackson 213 Bunsen Peak 52-5, 51 closures & seasonal 56, 51 Livingston 149 Cache Lake Trail 57, 51 restrictions 30-1 Shoshone Lake (Lewis Wapiti Valley 146 Cascade Lake & River Channel) Trail 65 permits 31 West Yellowstone 164 ­Observation Peak Slough Creek Trail 60 ratings 31 62-3, 61 Yellowstone National South Rim Trail & Ribbon safety 31-2, 279 Cinnamon Creek Trail Park 85 Lake 60-1, 61 with children 15, 39, 42 159 hot spots 239-40 Trail 60 hiking (by region), see hot springs 20, 241, see Colter Bay Lakeshore also hikes (day), hikes Trail 172 Storm Point Trail 105 also geysers Surprise & Amphitheater (overnight), ­hiking Death Canyon 180, 181 104 Lakes 177, 176 Beartooth Highway DeLacy Creek Trail 69 137, 139 Black Dragon’s Cauldron­ Table Mountain 178-9, 179 101 Devil’s Staircase to Alaska Bechler 69-70, 79-81, Taggart & Bradley Lakes Black Pool 104, Basin 179-80, 179 70, 80 28 178, 176 Dogshead Trail 65 Canyon Country 60-3, Boiling River 91 Terrace Mountain Loop Elbow Lake 150 74-5, 61, 74 Boulder Spring 68 56, 51 Elephant Back Mountain­ Central Tetons 175-8, Calcite Springs 57 Timberline Lake Trail 134 63, 64 176 Chico Hot Springs Two Ocean Lake & Grand Fairy Falls & Twin Buttes Colter Bay Region 172-5, 149, 21 View Point 174-5, 174 68-9, 67 174 Churning Cauldron 101 70 Forces of the Northern Gallatin Valley 159 Devil’s Frying Pan 94 Wild Bill Lake 134 Range Self-Guiding Geyser Country 66-9, Dragon’s Mouth Spring Yellowstone River Picnic Trail 93 77-9, 67, 78-9 101 Area Trail 57-8, 58 Fossil Forest Trail 59, 58 Jackson 213 Ferris Fork Hot Springs hikes (overnight) 31, see 81 Garnet Canyon 177-8, 176 Jackson Hole 221-2 also hikes (day), hiking,­ 104 Garnet Hill Trail 59-60 hiking (by region) Lake Country 63-5, 75-6, Glacier Lake 134 64, 76 Grand Prismatic Spring Beartooth National 12, 69, 114-15, 12, 15 Goodwin Lake & Jackson Recreation Trail 139 Mammoth Country 51-7, Granite Creek 215 Peak 213 Beartooth Traverse 81, 51 Granite Hot Springs Harlequin Lake Trail 116 139 Moose-Wilson Road 223-4 Hermitage Point 173-4, Trail 180-2, 181 Grizzly Fumarole 101 174 79-81, 80 Norris 65-6, 66 Huckleberry Hot Springs Howard Eaton Trail 56, 51 Bighorn Pass Trail 81 Paradise Valley 149-50 182 284 hot springs continued Jackson Hole Aerial Tram M Grand Targhee Ski & Mammoth Hot Springs 187-8 Madison Junction 107 Summer Resort 226 91 Jackson Hole Mountain Mammoth Chapel 93 Jackson Hole 221-2 109 Resort 222 mountain goats 249, Mammoth Country 92 72 Jackson Lake 10, 192, 193, safety 277 accommodations 119-20 mountain lions 249, 10, 35 276-7 Sulfur Cauldron 101 cycling 82-3

INDEX INDEX Jackson Lake Dam 197 mountaineering 32-3 Terrace Spring 107 drinking 124 Jackson Point Overlook Mt Holmes 81 Washburn Hot Springs food 124 74 197, 199 Mt Meek Pass 180 Jenny Lake 202-3 hiking 51-7, 81, 51

H-M West Thumb Geyser Mt Moran 197  sights 90-4 Basin 104, 4, 28 Jenny Lake Scenic Drive Mt Washburn 61

skiing 89-90 202 ,199  65 mud pots 241 John D Rockefeller Jr Mammoth Hot Springs 14, Huckleberry Point 182 Artist Paint Pots 106 ­Memorial Parkway 196, 56, 91, 14 Hurricane Pass 187 Fountain Paint Pot 115 204-5, 207 Mammoth Hot Springs Hymen Terrace 51 Hotel 92 Grizzly Fumarole 101 hypothermia 277-8 Gumper 101 K Mammoth terraces 14, 56, 91, 14 Red Spouter 115 kayaking 35, 85, 142, see Mud 101 I also canoeing maps 228 ice climbing 142 Marion Lake 187-8 museums, see also immigration 269 markets 220 galleries Inspiration Point 97-8 L McCullough Peaks Wild American Computer & Lake Country Robotics Museum 155 insurance 265-6, 271, 274 102-3 Horse Range 142 accommodations 121-2 measures 269 Buffalo Bill Center of the internet access 266 West 142 cycling 83-4 medical services 275 internet resources 19, 268 Carbon County Museum drinking 126-7 Menor’s Ferry Historic children, travel with 40 134 food 126-7 District 194, 203 environmental issues Draper Museum of hiking 63-5, 75-6, , microbes 234, 239 254 64 76 Natural History 142 sights 101-5 Midway Geyser Basin geology 240, 241 Driggs Geotourism 114-15 Grand Teton National Lake Solitude 175-6 Center 225 migration corridors 253 Park 169 lake trout 87, 250, 251 Gallatin History Museum park support Lake Yellowstone Hotel mobile phones 18 155 ­organizations 267 103 money 18, 19, 265, 269 Indian Arts Museum sustainable travel 253 Lamar Valley 9, 94-6, 8-9 Monument Geyser 66 197 wildlife 245, 254 Laurance S Rockefeller moose 13, 248, 276-7, 13 Livingston Depot Center Yellowstone National Preserve Center 203-4 Moose 203, 207, 209 147 Park 47 Lava Lake 159 Moose Bogs 94 Museum of the internment camps 144 leeches 277 Moose Ponds 202 National Park Range 117 legal matters 266 Moose-Wilson Road 191 105 Museum of the Rockies­ itineraries 25-9 LeHardy’s Rapids 103 hiking 180-2, 181 11, 155, 11 Leigh Lake 175, 192 sights 203-4 National Museum of lesbian travelers 266 J Moran Bay 192 Wildlife Art 213 104 Jackson 213-21, 214 Moran Junction 224 Old Trail Town 142 LGBT+ travelers 266 accommodations 216-18 Mormon Row 15, 188-9, Plains Indian Museum lightning 279 199, activities 213, 215-16 15 142 Lily Pad Lake 60 Morning Glory Pool 109 drinking & nightlife Western Heritage Center 219-20 Little Bighorn Battlefield mosquitoes 277 132 National Monument 132 entertainment 220 Moss Mansion 132 Yellowstone Art & Little Firehole River 66 festivals & events 216 motorcycle travel 18, ­Photography Cente Livingston 147-9 271-3 109 food 218-19 lodging 263-4 Grand Teton National Yellowstone Forever shopping 220 Log Chapel of the Sacred Park 210 Institute 96 sights 213 Heart 194 road distances 46, 129, Yellowstone Gateway travel to/from 220 Lone Mountain Ranch 159 168, 211, 273 Museum 147-8 travel within 220-1 Lookout Point 98 Yellowstone National Yellowstone Heritage & Jackson Hole 13, 221-4, Park 128 Lost Lake 58 Research Center 151 2, 13 mountain biking 34, see Lower Geyser Basin 115-17 Yellowstone Historic also cycling Center 163 Lyme disease 275 Big Sky 158 Yellowstone Trading lynx 249 Map Pages 000 Cody 142 Post 141 Photo Pages 000 285 N calendar of events 23-4 fishing 89 Grand Teton National National Elk Refuge 213 family travel 15, 39-42 food 124 Park 195-6 116 free attractions 95 hiking 57-60, 81, 58 Jackson Hole 13, 221, 222, 13 national parks programs 40 internet resources 19 sights 94-7 Red Lodge 135 Native American culture 230 itineraries 25-9 skiing 89-90 Snow King Resort natural resources 237-8 opening dates 19 Running of the Sheep 135

215-16 INDEX Nez Percé people 232 park policies & Wapiti Valley 147 Norris ­regulations 19, 127 S West Yellowstone 165-6 accommodations 122 travel seasons 18, 23-4 safety Yellowstone National -plants 251-2  N hiking 65-6, 66 backcountry 31-2 Park 89-90 Point Sublime 99  T sights 105-7 children, travel with 41 ski-joring 135 Polecat Creek 182, 195 Norris Geyser Basin 17, crossing streams 279 sleeping bags 257 105-6, 17 Pompey’s Pillar National Monument 132 cycling 279 Smoking Waters Mountain Nymph Lake 94 Man Rendezvous 24 population 229 geothermal areas 277 Snake River 192 Porcelain Basin 106 Grand Teton National Park 208 Snake River Overlook 194 O postal services 266 hiking 31-2, 279 snakes 277 Observation Hill 111 pronghorn 248 hitchhiking 273 snow blindness 278 Observation Peak 63 public holidays 266-7 road 271-2, 273 Snow King Resort 215-16 94 Pumice Point 104 Old Faithful geyser 9, rockfall 279 snowcoach tours 38, 273 109, 9 water 278 snowmobile access 238 Old Faithful Inn 109 Q wildlife 275-7 snowmobiling 38, 254 opening dates, parks 19 Quake Lake 161-3 winter travel 37 Grand Teton National opening hours 266 Yellowstone National Park 195 Oregon Short Line Railway R Park 47 Yellowstone National Park 89, 16 Car 163 rafting 34-5 Sand Point 104 snowshoeing 37, 195 Osprey Falls 55 Chico Hot Springs 149 scenic drives 20 Soda Butte 95 ospreys 250 Cody 142-4 Beartooth Highway Drive 136-7 Sour Lake 101 owls 250, 2 Gallatin Valley 160 Blacktail Plateau Spanish Peaks 159 Oxbow Bend 194 Gardiner 151-3 Drive 93 Specimen Ridge 59 Jackson 216 Buffalo Bill Scenic Byway spiders 277 railways 235-6 P 146 springs, see hot springs Paintbrush Divide 182-3 Raven Creek 64 Chief Joseph Scenic stargazing 122 Paradise Valley 149-51 Red Lodge 134-6 Byway 139-40 Divide 180 Paradise Valley Route rescue & evacuation 279 Firehole Canyon Drive stings 277 147-54 resorts 115-16 stoves 257 paragliding 222 Big Sky Resort 13, 158 Firehole Lake Drive 115 streams, crossing 279 park passes 263 Grand Targhee Ski & Geyser Trail 82 175, 192, 202 park policies & regulations­ Summer Resort 226 Grand Teton National 19, 127 Jackson Hole Mountain Park 191, 194, 191, 194 summer travel 30-6 park support organizations Resort 222 Jenny Lake Scenic Drive sunburn 278 267 Lone Mountain Ranch 199, 202 Sunlight Basin 140 passports 268, 269 159 Yellowstone National Surprise Lake 177 pepper spray 259 Snow King Resort 215-16 Park 82 sustainable travel 254 permits rhyolitic lava 242 Schwabacher’s Landing Swan Lake 94 Grand Teton National Ribbon Lake 60 199 Sylvan Lake 105 Park 210 Rims, the 132 Sevenmile Hole 74 Yellowstone National road distances 46, 129, Shadow Mountain 189 Park 71 168, 211, 273 Sheepeater Canyon 55 T Table Mountain 178-9 Petrified Tree 93-4 94 Sheepeater Cliffs 94 Taggart Lake 178 pets, travel with 43-4 rock climbing, see climbing Sheepeaters 94, 230-1 telephone services 18, 267 Phelps Lake 180 202 Shoshone Lake 87 tents 257 Phelps Lake Overlook 180 Rockefeller Jr, John D 236 Signal Mountain 197 Teton Fault 242 pig racing 135 rockfall 279 Silver Cord Cascade 60 Teton Glacier 203 Pinyon Terrace 56 Roosevelt Arch 151 skiing 36-7 Teton Glacier Overlook 177 Plains Indian Powwow 23 Roosevelt Country 96 Big Sky Resort 13, Teton Valley 224-6 planning accommodations 120-1 158-9 activities 30-8 Grand Targhee Ski & Tetons 12, 178-80, 242-3, drinking 124 12 budgeting 19 Summer Resort 226 286 thermal features 20, 239, U 80 Y 240-2, 277, see also Uncle Tom’s Trail 99 116-17 Yellowstone Forever fumeroles, geysers, hot Upper Geyser Basin 9, Lewis Falls 104 Institute 96 springs 108-17, 112-13 Mystic Falls 66 Yellowstone Heritage & Three River Junction 80 Upper Wind River Valley Osprey Falls 55 Research Center 238 Three Rivers Meadow 80 224 Sluiceway Falls 81 Yellowstone Lake 86-7, 89,

INDEX INDEX Thumb Paint Pots 104 Tendoy Falls 81 102-3, 242 ticks 277 Terraced Falls 70 Yellowstone National Park Timbered Island 203 V 16, 46-128, 48-9, 16, Tower Fall 96-7 time 269 vacations 266-7 72, 73 T-Y Undine Falls 93  Togwotee Pass 224 vegetarian travelers 265 accommodations 46,

Union Falls 70  toilets 267 Victor 225 117-24 Virginia Cascade 107 Tom Miner Basin 150 viewpoints backcountry permits 71 Wahhi Falls 81 tourism 229, 235-7 Calcite Springs Overlook­ boating 85-7 96 Wraith Falls 93 tourist information 267-8 cycling 82-5 Dead Indian Pass 139 waterfowl 250 Grand Teton National drinking 124-7 Park 209 Grandview Point 98 weather 18, 23-4, 264 entrances 47 Yellowstone National Inspiration Point 97-8 websites, see internet fishing 87-9 resources Park 128 Jenny Lake Overlook 202 food 46, 124-7 weddings 267 tours 273 Lake Butte Overlook 105 hiking 46, 50-81 weights 269 cycling 33-4 Lookout Point 98 horseback riding 85 West Nile Disease 275 wildlife-watching 34 Point Sublime 99 internet resources 47 West Thumb Geyser Basin Yellowstone National Uncle Tom’s Trail 99 medical services 127 104, 4, 28 Park 128 visas 268 opening dates 126 West Yellowstone 163-7, 164 Tower-Roosevelt Junction volunteering 268 policies & regulations 127 Wild Bill Lake 134 96-7 reservations 47 wildflowers 15, 252, 15, 185 train travel 235-6, 272 road distances 46 Trapper Lake 175 W wildlife 244-52, see also walking, see hikes (day), individual species safety 47 travel to/from the national hikes (overnight), scenic drives 82 parks 270-2 wildlife protection 253 ­hiking, hiking (by shopping 127 travel within the national wildlife-watching 20 region) sights 90-117 parks 210, 218, 272-3 Wapiti Route 141-7 Grand Teton National Park 182 skiing 89-90 travertine terraces 242 Wapiti Valley 146-7 safety 275-7 tourist offices 128 trees 251-2 water, drinking 257-8, 278 tours 34 travel within 128 trekking, see hikes (day), waterfalls hikes (overnight), Yellowstone National wildlife watching 9, 84, Bechler Basin Waterfalls ­hiking, hiking (by Park 9, 84, 100-1 100-1 14, 70, 14 region) Willow Flats Turnout 182 Yellowstone River 57, 2, 73 trout 87, 250, 251 Brink of the Lower Yellowstone River picnic Falls 98 Willow Park 94 Trout Lake 95 Wilson 221 area 96 Brink of the Upper Yellowstone Volcano trumpeter swans 250 Falls 98 winter travel 16, 21-2, Tukudika people 230-1 36-8, 88 Observatory 240 Cave Falls 14, 70, 14 Twin Buttes 69 Witch Creek 75 Yellowstone Wildlife Colonnade Falls 80 ­Sanctuary 134 Twin Lakes 94 Fairy Falls 69 wolf reintroduction 245-6 Two Ocean Lake 174 106 wolves 229, 245-6, 21 Gwinna Falls 81 work 268-9

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 287

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Eating Parking Glacier Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Park/Forest Cafe Train station/Railway Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Benedict Walker A beach baby from Newcastle, Australia, Ben turned 40 in 2017 and decided to start a new life in Leipzig, Germany. Writing for Lonely Planet was a childhood dream. It’s a privilege, a huge responsibility and loads of fun! He’s thrilled to have covered big chunks of Australia, Canada, Germany, Japan, Switzerland, Sweden and the USA. Come along for the ride on Instagram @wordsandjourneys.

Bradley Mayhew Yellowstone National Park Bradley has been writing guidebooks for 20 years now. He started traveling while studying Chinese at Oxford University, and he is the co-author of Lonely Planet’s Tibet, Nepal, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, Bhutan, Central Asia and many others. Bradley has also fronted two TV series for Arte and SWR, one retracing the route of Marco Polo via Turkey, Iran, Afghan- istan, Central Asia and China, and the other trekking Europe’s 10 most scenic long-distance trails. Bradley also wrote the Plan Your Trip and Survival Guide chapters.

Carolyn McCarthy Grand Teton National Park Carolyn specializes in travel, culture and adventure in the Americas. She has written for National Geographic, Outside, BBC Maga- zine, Sierra Magazine, Boston Globe and other publications. A former Fulbright fellow and Banff Mountain Grant recipient, she has documented life in the most remote corners of Latin America. Carolyn has contributed to 40 guidebooks and anthologies for Lonely Planet, including Colorado, USA, Argentina, Chile, Trekking in the Patagonian Andes, Panama, Peru and USA National Parks guides. Carolyn also wrote the Understand chapters. For more information, visit www.carolynmccarthy.org or follow her Instagram travels @mccarthyoffmap.

Christopher Pitts Around Yellowstone National Park, Around Grand Teton National Park Born in the year of the Tiger, Chris’s first expedition in life ended in failure when he tried to dig from Pennsylvania to China at the age of six. Hardened by reality but still infinitely curious about the other side of the world, he went on to study Chinese in university, living for several years in Kunming, Taiwan and Shanghai. A chance encounter in an elevator led to a Paris relocation, where he lived with his wife and two children for over a decade before the lure of Colorado’s sunny skies and outdoor adven- ture proved too great to resist. Visit him online at www.christopherpitts.net.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 5th edition – Mar 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 594 4 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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