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Pakistan's Readymade Garments Sector: Challenges and Opportunities

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Pakistan's Readymade Garments Sector: Challenges and Opportunities Consortium for c d p r Development Policy Research w w w . c d p r . o r g . p k c d p r Report R1804 Firms October 2018 About the project This report was prepared by Hasaan Khawar (CDPR), Nadia Mukhtar (LUMS), Maheen Javaid (LUMS), and Dr. Umair Funded by: Pakistan Business Javed (LUMS). The senior advisor on this project was Dr. Ijaz Council (PBC) Nabi (IGC and CDPR). +924235778180 [email protected] Key Counterpart: Pakistan . Business Council (PBC) Impact In brief The Pakistan Business Council Ÿ used the findings of this report The focus of this study is the ready-made garments sector and to lobby the government for evaluates the prospects for this sector going forward, policy reform. This work was especially in light of China Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC). a l s o p r e s e n t e d a t a Ÿ This study leverages existing secondary research for its analysis, conference in State Bank in Karachi. The report was also duly complemented and updated through fresh interviews of presented at a roundtable firms and sector associations, as well as an in-depth analysis of conference with CDPR, PBC, primary data on the textile sector. a n d k e y p l a y e r s o f t h e Ÿ The study finds that despite considerable constraints on the garments sector. manufacturing economy, Garment firms have continued to outperform other industrial sectors. China's transition away www.cdpr.org.pk from low-value added garments production provides a window of opportunity for Pakistan to obtain a segment of China's $170 billion export share. Ÿ However, it will require a redoubling of policy effort on the recommendations provided in this study, along with greater initiative and appetite on part of the private sector. Pakistan’s Readymade Garments Sector: Challenges and Opportunities Pakistan Business Council (PBC) and The Consortium for Development Policy Research (CDPR) A Pakistan’s Readymade Garments Sector: Challenges and Opportunities Pakistan Business Council (PBC) and The Consortium for Development Policy Research (CDPR) HASSAAN KHAWAR NADIA MUKHTAR MAHEEN JAVAID DR. UMAIR JAVED iii Contents Foreword ix The PBC’S Member Companies xii Acronyms xiii Executive Summary 1 1. Economic Significance 11 1.1 Textile value chain 12 1.2 Zooming in on garments 13 1.3 Economic significance of garments sub-sector 14 1.4 Driver of competitiveness for other sectors 17 1.5 A driver of jobs 18 1.6 Better jobs 19 1.7 Garments and Gender parity 20 1.8 Cluster development in the garments sector 21 2. Pakistan’s Garment Exports 23 2.1 Lack of product and market diversification 23 2.2 A Bias Towards Low Value Addition 24 2.3 Lower Value Exports 24 2.4 Slow Export Growth Vis-à-vis Competitors 25 2.5 Low export competitiveness 27 2.6 GSP Plus 30 3. Impediments to achieving export competitiveness 33 3.1 Supply-side constraints 33 3.2 Demand-side constraints 42 3.3 Overall impediments to trading and doing business 43 4. Previous Policy Measures Adopted in Pakistan 51 4.1 Textile Policy (2009-14 and 2014-19) 51 4.2 The PM Incentive Package for Exporters 2017-18 54 4.3 Federal Budgets (2016-2018) 54 4.4 Extension of the PM Exporter Package 2018-21 56 v vi | PAKISTAN’SCONTENTS READYMADE GARMENTS SECTOR: CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIES 5. CPEC – Opportunities and Concerns 59 5.1 Role of garments sector within CPEC: Initiatives 60 5.2 Expected impact of CPEC on readymade garments 60 5.3 Garments trade with China 62 5.4 Role of the Pak-China Free Trade Agreement 66 5.5 Opportunities for growth and collaborative investment 69 6. International Insights 71 6.1 Relevant examples 71 6.2 Successful policy support and interventions by role models 72 7. Recommendations 81 7.1 Capitalizing on CPEC related opportunities 81 7.2 Lower Production Costs and Better Access to Raw Materials 82 7.3 Right Product Mix and Diversification 83 7.4 Industrial Policy Measures Targeting Key Impediments 87 7.5 Improving Access to Finance 88 7.6 Trade and Customs Facilitation 88 Annexure I 89 Annexure II 103 Boxes Box 1: Historical context of policies in textile sector 51 Box 2: Industry demands ahead of Budgets 2017-18 and 2018-192 55 Figures Figure 1-1 Pakistan’s Textile Exports as % of Total Exports 11 Figure 1-2 Structure of the Cotton Value Chain and Value Addition of Each Stage in 2013 12 Figure 1-4 FDI Trend for textiles (Net inflows) 12 Figure 1-3 Category-wise Price of Pakistan’s Textile Exports 13 Figure 1-5 Composition of Pakistan’s exports to the world in 2017 15 Figure 1-6 Pakistan’s Textile Exports by Major Categories 15 Figure 1-7 RMG exports over time: Break-up (HS 61 & HS 62) 16 Figure 1-8 Pakistan and World Garment Exports 16 Figure 1-9 Apparel Sector as an Important Employer for Developing Countries (1963-2007) 18 Figure 1-10 Employment in Major Industries in Pakistan 2014-15 19 Figure 1-11 Ratio of Skilled and Unskilled Labor Force 2014-15 20 Figure 1-12 Employment in Garments, Textiles, Footwear and Leather by Sex: 2010-2015 20 CONTENTS | vii Figure 2-1 Pakistan’s Top 20 Export Destinations for Garments (HS 61& 62), 2017 23 Figure 2-2 Average unit values of Pakistan’s top 5 RMG exports (2017) 24 Figure 2-3 Top ten exporters of knit RMG, 2017 25 Figure 2-4 Top ten exporters of woven RMG, 2017 26 Figure 2-5 Widening export differential with key competitors 26 Figure 2-6 Changes in relative world market shares (% per annum) 2012-16 27 Figure 2-7 Drivers of Pakistan relative world market shares in garments: 2012-16 28 Figure 2-8 Comparing drivers of change in relative world export shares (2012-16) 28 Figure 2-10 Change in relative world export shares due to specialization and adaptation to global demand (2012-16) 29 Figure 2-9 Change in relative world export shares due to competitiveness (2012-16) 29 Figure 2-11 RMG exports of Pakistan (2013-17) 31 Figure 2-12 EU import shares for readymade garments over 2013-17: A comparison 31 Figure 3-1 Imported inputs and energy costs comparison (2014) 38 Figure 3-2 Comparing monthly wages in the RMG sector, 2017 39 Figure 3-3 Production and distribution flow in textile and apparel chain 42 Figure 3-4 Global Competitiveness Index: 2006-17 44 Figure 3-5 Comparison of global competitiveness: 2018 44 Figure 3-6 Doing business in Pakistan and distance to frontier 45 Figure 3-7 Pakistan rupee versus key apparel competitors 46 Figure 3-8 Trading across borders: Distance to frontier (2018) 47 Figure 3-9 Export costs (2014): A comparison 47 Figure 3-10 Logistics Performance Index (2018) 48 Figure 3-11 Change in LPI rankings (2007-2018) 49 Figure 5-1 Main Projects of CPEC 59 Figure 5-2 Trend of Pakistan and China’s Garment Trade (HS 61+ HS62) 62 Figure 5-3 Pakistan’s Top 20 Export Destinations for Knitted Garments (HS 61) and Woven Garments (HS 62), 2017 63 Figure 5-4 Top 20 import partners of China’s garments (woven and knitted/crocheted) in 2017 64 Figure 5-5 Top 10 sourcing countries for Pakistan’s garment imports 2017 65 Figure 5-6 Monthly real wages in 15 of top 21 apparel exporters to the US 68 Figure 5-7 Sourcing Executives Opinion of expected share of China in their sourcing 69 Tables Table 1-1 Contribution of textiles to Pakistan’s Economy 11 Table 1-2 The Importance of Garments in the Textile Value Chain in 2017 13 Table 1-3 Economic importance of garments 14 viii | CONTENTS PAKISTAN’S READYMADE GARMENTS SECTOR: CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIES Table 1-4 Top exporters of apparel (HS 61&62), 2017 14 Table 1-5 Top 10 export products of Pakistan in 2017. 17 Table 1-6 Male/ female Employment Ratio in Pakistan 21 Table 2-1 Structure of Pakistan and world’s textile and garment exports 24 Table 2-2 Leading exports of Pakistan, 2017: A comparison 32 Table 3-1 Comparing technology across RMG producers, 2017 35 Table 3-2 Duty structure on cotton 36 Table 3-3 Duty drawback on local taxes and levies (2017-2021) 36 Table 3-4 Tariffs on man-made staple fibres over time High tariff escalation (2017) 37 Table 3-5 Market access in key apparel markets (2017): Comparison of tariffs applied at the HS 2-digit level 46 Table 3-6 Time and cost of trading, by city (2018) 48 Table 4-1 Goals and proposed schemes of Textile Policy 2014-19 53 Table 4-2 Pending government liabilities as of August 2018 57 Table 5-1 Growth rate (% per annum) from 2013-2017 63 Table 5-2 Top Pakistan’s Garment Exports to China in 2017 64 Table 5-3 Pakistan’s Top 5 Garment Imports from China in 2017 66 Table 5-4 Complementarities between Pakistan’s top exports and China’s top imports 67 Table 5-5 Tariff imposed on garment imports from Pakistan and ASEAN countries in China 67 Table 6-1 Snapshot of garments exporters 71 Table 6-2 Broad policy support for garments sector 75 Table 3 : Dynamic performance of Pakistan’s exports, HS 61 (2013-2017) 93 Table 3 : Dynamic performance of Pakistan’s exports, HS 62 (2013-2017) 100 Table A-1 Documents required to trade in Karachi, 2010.
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