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This Book is brought to you for free and open access by the Publications at Digital Commons @ Columbia College Chicago. It has been accepted for inclusion in Wanderer by an authorized administrator of Digital Commons @ Columbia College Chicago. For more information, please contact [email protected]. AND TRAVEL WRITING: PERU STUDENTS SPRING 2015
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• ~~ffi~~ 'i]x.@ lD,}T.tuf~J @V'~~ ~.llS;.~ letter from the editors
WE CLEARLY REMEMBER the first time we traveled internationally - crossing by air many countries' borders and feeling the thrill of visiting a new land we had seen only in photos and movies. This was the same emotion we found in the students who enrolled in the 'l'ravel Writing Peru course in January 2014. They were about to have a wonderful e,perience. Four years after taking students to Peru in 2010, we were quite prepared to repeat the experience. A stronger economy and a larger influx of tourists has given Peru a more festive and colorful face. Running away from the polar vortex of Chicago, to Lima, Peru's capital, welcomed us with a sunny summer: Shorts and tank tops in Januacy- what a Ju.wry! As a coastal metropolis situated on the Pacific Ocean, Lima hosts al moot 9 million people, ranked the tbird largest in the Americas, after Sao Paulo and Mexico City. Lima is a melting pot of what Peru is all about: that ancient culture that precedes Columbus's arrival and includes diverse ethnic and racial groups, pola.ri7,ed social classes, exquisite cuisine, the modern and precarious, the extravagant and poor. It's a land of contrasts, a great opportunity for journalism, photography and film students. \Ve were all exploring what is called "U1e laud of the Incas." Taking Miraflores as our hub- a modern city neighborhood ne,1 to the ocean - we had daily classes, museums and important sites including the colonial downtown. We tried new foods, from ceviche to a variety of unique potato dishes to Peruvian· Chinese fare called "Chifa" to exotic fn1its. \Ve walked to quaint Barranco (artsy and old) and even had the chance to explore the beaches south of Lima. \Ve did all this while reporting, shooting video, blogging, taking pictures and enjoying the foreign experience. And then we took a so-minute flight to Cusco, ''the archaeological capital of the AmeriC'as."' ·11,is city, situated in the Peruvian Andes, shines like a shooting star in the mountains, with its deep blue skies and feeling of history. Seeing locals walk their llamas ne,1 to cars and offer a variety of handmade crafts, potte1y,jewelry and alpaca sweaters was a unique experience. Visiting the ·sacred Valley" fel t like being plaoed in the middle of a landscape painting with vivid colors while breathing pure air on our way to the picturesque Pisac town and the ;; ~ Ollanta)1an1bo fortress. ~ Maybe it was the best that ,vas saved for the end: Machu Picchu, the lost city of the "~ Incas and one of the seven wonders of the modern world. A truly magical place, this 1:; citadel touches the sk-y. We kept asking ourselves, how were the Incas able to build 3 such a place in the middle of these lush mountains, next to the Un,bamba river? i3 ~ The product of this trip is in your hands now. As a truly collective experience, ~ words, images, graphics and design come together - ,tlie 'result ofJ tight 1 ~ collaboration among :rravel W,iting Peru andjvisual Journalisfri ~erlls, here.at ~ Columbia College Chi go. "'-Elio Len,ria dh1fr~¥d Piie~ 0 r, :,:::., II ""' ,' ~ -- - r'?ttfin'llniE~1---- .,;,,..i~~r~f-~·~~~, ., ·~·;. \I1 ,''. , • ' o um 1 ~ ·••• • COLLtOt CHICA 0 ' ~~'~,~11-(:17-.,-;;i ---~_":1.... ~ ' 4 THE CAT'S MEOW 26 OH, CUY! Umter
STORY & PHOTOS BY OELANEY DUVALL-LINEHAN
rom the cat-tsland of by their owners ~ften sick., or Tashirojima, Japan, even injured. These cats are the to the ruins of largo focus of the Kennedy Par1< Kit· di Torte Argentina in tens· adopttOn efforts. Rome, an interesting However, all the cats of the phenomenon has taken place. park are still cared for with food, For whatever reasol'\, feral cat vaccinations, and parasite treat· populations have decided to con ment. Any and all procedures gregate within a limited jurisdic performed on behalf of the Ken· tion. In Lima, Peru, the resident nedy Park Kittens are filmed and cat community can be found in can be accessed online. the John F. Kennedy Park of the Natalie Sanchez who has Miraflores district. been president of the Kennedy The park is home to over 120 Park Kittens for the past five cats. They can be seen in every years, spoke about one of their corner of the pa~ either nap weekly adoption campaigns. ping in flov,1etbeds, perched "We love cats. We do this in trees, or relaxing on sunny work for free more than 15 years benches. Tomists stop to take pic and we usualo/ pay all from our tures of the cats while Miraflores wallets, We have some donations reside.nu go about their days' but they a,e little, .. S~nchez said. business as usual. "We're looking for help definite I asked passersby if they knew ly. .. Right now for example, we how this cat community came to need to vaccinate again and we be, but no one really reems 10 don't h,ave mo,e money." know the answer and most could Cat popularity has seen a only speculate. "Many people leave them here because they cannot take care of them, N s.aid one Miraflotes resj.. dent Elizabeth Lopez. 52. LA CASA DI! LOS GATOS Fernando Vigo, 20, a Mira flores resident and student, placed a small gray and wtiite cat on my lap while we sat on the steps of Kennedy Par1<. "You know when you are be- ing really lovely with a cat and the cat is being really lovely with your he asked. Vigo later told me that the cats had become an attraction for people near Miraflores. The Feline Defense Volunteer lAMAAAHWtlS8 Group, "Kennedy Park Kit- Although the C4'ts MC dominant in tens, N has worked to protect the? PMque Kennedy, tM)' ako occupy cats for t 5 ye.ars, Unlike many Parque central dt" Miatflores. Both similar cat communiti~, not all parks are wedged between the two of the cats of Kennedy Park are main aven1RS of Diagonal and Larco: feral. Many are in fact domestic about a seven-minute drive from the coastal cliffs of the c.apital. cats that have been abandoned
4 wanderer VarietiM of cats relax in the sun and rest in beds of marigolds while attracting the attention of tourists and the local population.
dramatic spike in recent years eat the cats as a delicacy. Nobody as images and Internet memes could confirm why. came sweeping through differ "We need to contract private ent social media networks. The security guards, but we don't John F. Kennedy Park is a fasci have money for that. I can't nating destination fo r tourists sleep. I come to the park around worldwide, but for how much 2 o'clock in the morning and longer? leave around Sor 6 in the morn S~nchez stated that in the past ing," Sanchez said. "It is my year they have suffered massive sacrifice because I cannot let my dis.appearances of cats as well as kitties suffe r," attacks from those who would - Design by TomaNJlr Webb
wanderer S BY ELIZABETH GIADANS
I AM NOT A
ANDMV FRIEND IS NOTA
ag trenzac. t-.ilOS de 1;on tJ. co\ores y iedritas
alking do,\,1 is an idea travelers should keep 2002. She first started work· Often we hear the sunny in mind. ing at the Escuela de Espaiiol about things streets of San· •Ifa person from Chile calls Amauta in Cusoo, Peru. She now tiago, Chile, or greets a person from Peru works in Lima. getting lost in one would 'cabrito' or'cabrita,' it is almost Vcr.\stegui says some students not °'i,ect to be called names. certain that a Peruvian wiU (eel become interested in learning translation Eli1.abelh To\'ar, an interior offended and will react "ety de how to speak colloquially. designer felt offended at the fensh·e, .. said Elsa Verastcgui, a ..Sometimes students hear in different thoughl or someone ca11ing her Spanish professor at El Sol. thing,s that they do not under languages; a goat. El Sol, a Spanish $Choo) in stand. ·11u~y come to us with .. A friend of my dad's said, the MiraJlo~ district of Lima. questions looking for an expla sometimes 'Qu6. linda cabra,' ·" shc~aid. 1 offers classes to non-Spanish nations." she sa.id. "l\·e SCClt wondered why she would say speakers for any needs they some students fi nd joy and share they get lost such a thin; to me without have. Students can e\'en learn what they learn with others." kno\\ing who I was.- how 10 speak colloquially. "E.xampJes of words and what in translation Tovar later understood that Veristegui suggests greeting they mean in different places arc in the same cabro in Chile means .. young a Peruvian by saying, "Hola mi endless," Verastegui said. "Some person.. and in Peru, where she pata.· which means "Hello my stt1dentssay they Teamed S]',31\ language. is from, it only goat. To\'ar tra,·· good friend," But in another ish in another country and there c.led and stayed in Chile for n Spanish-speaking CC)m,try it ha,·e been occasions where they few months last summer. might be like saying "Hello my say, 'I almost got into an altcrea· Due to the differences in dia· paw"' or "'Hello my hoof." tion beeause of what I said.'" lects in the Spanish language, Verastogui graduated front In i\'fc.- 6 wanderer • "Some students £sc1ib<1111 say they learned nombre ell un Spanish in another country ~mno de arroz and there have been occasions where they say, 'I almost got into an altercation because of what I said.'" -ELSA VERJ\STEGUJ, El Sol Institute instructor Sanchez also sa)~ that telling a friend •que maldito· might oound strange if they are talk ing about something great th n1 occurred to them. To most Spanish speakers, it means to be cursed or damned. "To tis 'mal· dito' is positive. We use it in the 001,se that we a.re sa)~ng ·0001, good for you,' • she said. Leaming the Peruvian dialect is a different e....:perience than learning another Spanish dia.l«,1, as it would be with any other Latin American country. Ver3- stegui said curiosity is great beeause it opens the doors for people to lean1 Peru"ian collo quialism through social i1Hcr:u::• "'\\then we say 'agasajar'. it tion. SAME WORD, DIFFERENT MEANING means that soineo11e important "Jf people can tell that you are As noted in this article. words like .. cabta" and "'cache· translate is going to be a guest and we not Pent\lian, they might laugh to have ve.ry different meanings for Spanish speakers from different are going to celebrate and serve at you and not tell you because countries. wine. Imagine if you are Me.xi they understand that you may To a... oid offending someone. Of even the possibility of a fight. if you can and I tell you I am going to not know what you arc Sc'l)'ing, "' notice they've taken something you said the wrong way, take a momtnt 'agasajarte.' What are you going she said. to ask them if you said anything offensive and pQlitety explain what to think of mer she said. Sfmcl1ez confesses that she's you meant If the gme happens to you, be patient and understanding. Carola S:lnchc-4 a Peruvian offended people from other Chances are they didn't purposely say anything to offend you. who has lived in Clifton_, NJ., for Spanish·speaking countries ,,ith 21 years, says she has learned to words that don't mean anything •CHOCLO,, •CUACUA• d<"al with words and how their offensh•e to her. "My C..\.1>¢rie1tcc meanings change when it comes In Chile In Mexico is that when you see sometl1ing In Peru to interacting with other Latinos offends someone, ask them what in her community. words bothered them. It's better "One time when I was get· toleam ... ting on the bus, a 1t acquaintance TI1ercfore, when you are in waved at me and yelled ~AHA! Peru or ha"ing a com·ersation Te cache!' I was so angl)' aod hith a Peruvia.J\, sar "Hola 1ni shocked. I wasn't sure: how to pata," and if you ask for a cake. In Mexico In Cuba & Puerto Rico (some areas) react.'" Sftnchczsaid. "'But later make sure it's a "torta." Jfyou on t found out that Dominicans want a straw for )'Ot1rdrink ask and Puerto Ricans say ·cache' in for a "cafiita" and i( it's not cold order to mean ·1 caught you· or ·1 enough make sure to ten the saw you.' In Peru that word re· waiter ·a] polo por fa\'Or." fers to a se.'iu3' encounter." - Design by Kyle Kretlt wanderer 7 - - BY ANGELA CONNERS every residence within the district. apar1ments had three bedrooms, - "It's the status that people can three bathrooms. living room. kitch· - cean views from your get because of the area. And be· en, terrace and laundry faci lities. - modern living room or cause of how centrally located it is, From the ocean view out your city luxury with close people can get access to everyYlhere front door to the view of the moun· - proximity to down· and everything,· Morales said. tains from your kitchen window, the - town? Hard hats and And with a price, comes a view. less noisy Lima district seemed to be - all, Alexis Morales, 29. walked us The penthouse suite at a price of the most relaxing and revJardlng. - through a brand new. par1ly residen· USS328,000 was amazing. It was a · Miraflores is nice, but only for - tial, partly commercial building that 1,7 12 sq. foot duplex with a living· location. For the same condo you was to be finished in June 2014 in dining room, family room, two bed· will pay three times as much," - the Miraflores district in Lima. room~ two and a half bathrooms Ugar1e said. "This condo is listed - "It's the new appliances and the and maid quarters. It even had a at S121 ,000 American dollars. The finishes that makes this building terrace with an area for grass to same thing in Miraflores will be in - stand out,• said Morales. who is the grow and bring some natural life to the USS300's: - commerdal exe - LIMA - • II -- - ··. • San Bartolo The main entrance of a luxury condo in Miraflores. - -- 8 w anderer - - - - fr,_t - - - • I - - - .... ------ Pictured here~ the patio ol a panially finished IUX1Jiy - apartment in the Mirafkltes district cf Lima, Peru. With - many amenities Ike ne-,.v - appliances. be3\Jt~ul !,nlshings. - and aviewO: the?ac:Gte - Oce,n. the modern comforu are what attract many t,uyer,. - - The appeal of fMng in san Barto!o. a smaler coastal Mira!io \'\IIIEN a lot of people tltink about the Andes mountains of Peru they think about hiking the Inc~ Trail or tfachu Picchu, but not so much about rock climbing. 1'here are at least 83 known climbing spots in the country and more un charted territOI}' up and down the Andes. I paid Pirqa, a rock climb ing facility in Miraflores, l,ima, a visit. Not only did I personally waot to get on the ,,rail to climb, but also wanted to find out about the climbing in and around Peru. Outdoor activities became less popular in the 1980s due to the terrorism throughout Pern. "All tho people that (were) doing outdoor sports at tltat time stopped doing the outdoor sp0rts because you wc,u out of l.i,na and you maybe get killed or something. It was very dan In the1980s, Peruvians lived in gerous. ·we ba,·e like a break. fear as tho Commimist Party of There is a whole generation Peru, Shinin·g Path, began to rise. who didn·t get out of Lima or The organization first launched didn't travel or didn't prac- in 1980, W 10 wanderer •• '• m,g Climben gear up to climb the wall while • Ill • Peru is onlookers enjoy ., I in Huaraz. from below. ' • • . Lima, Can • • . chacaya, Arcq• • .. . .,. • • ' uipa and Cusco. •• The coast of Peru • • • •' is not great for • ••• climbing because it i.s • • • on desert. so it makes the rocks dusty a.nd oot in very good condition. The high- lands are the best for d imbing, but then you have high altitude problems and have to carry all of your gear up there. Climber tries to find the , The climbing around Lima is just p@riect foothold on his not for the faint of heart either. the ascend up the wall. With a scale that sta.rtS at 5-8 arm5. (iotenned:iatc) going up to 5.11 Right hand (hard) and not any good hand grabs a rock, holds, climbing in lima is not left hand finds for bcgioners. a rock. Right leg } "If you don't have the mus steps up to foothold cles, you won't be able to do on the rock, ldt leg i t/ said Jose Luis Bustamantei steps up to a foothold. who works as a rock climbing Lather, rinse, repeat. trainer at Pirqa. A lot of times a rock will For beginners, going to an b~ just out of reach. When area like Huaraz (five hours this happell5, the climber must outside of Lima) is tnuch better. very carefully staod on tippy The rocks there are granite and toes on the footholds, hips into sandstone, which are great for the wall and tum the b wanderer u ----- ... __ _ ' . Peruvian hostels provide guests with inexpensive daily die popular Kennedy Park and boasts t1lC atmosphc.re of a col activities,fellow travelers, a bed- andfree breakfast. lege campus. The buildin/s rooftop is home to ping pong BY HANNAH COLE WHEN I CA.'\ffi TO PERU 1 HAD NO IDEA hosteJs in the area and the cool tournamentsJ foosball tables and THAT I COULD Sl,EEP V.'ITH SEVEN STRANGERS FOR $12. demeanor that radiated from a full bal'. We stayed ill one of the backpacker's roo1YL~ with five I'm sure you're taking that the • shot and stay the first night of each. wrong, way- rm talking about my trip at Pariwana Host(') with Miraflores is one of the largest bunk beds, so 10 beds total, for tourist locations in Uma and i.s s 12 per pe.rson. Both the employ hostels. a group of classmates J had just ees and the guests 81 Pariwaoa T\ ·e never stayed in a hostel met that morning, home to evel")1hing from oolo)ful flowers and beaches to energclic were frie ndly and made me fccl before because rve always had N; our ta,x.i drove from the nightlife and clubs. To my sur• at case as l slept in a room with the impression that they're dirty airp01t through the Miraflores prise, the hostels ,,..-ere just as oomplete strange,~. or sketchy. J'm not sure where district of Lima, I began to feel lively as the culture right outside "It's easier to meet people here t11at generali.2..ation came from, a sudden g.l immcrofhope. 111e their doors. when you're staying in rooms of but I wasn, the only one with streets were lined ¾'1th bars and "'lneysaythot although Mira· eight or ten," said Tori Hamilton, a negative J~ rccpti(m. My fam· re.~taurants, il1td young 1>ooplc rtores is not the c:enter of the city, :20, a lone traveler from Australia ily and friends were also a bit were scattered throtWtout it is the heart or the city," .said who \\fa.S sta}ing at Pariwana. worried when I told them I'd be the brightly tit Kennedy Parl<. Peter "Pedro" Ferreira, 20, an She's stayed at hostels staying at one in Pern. I w·anted The city was alive. employee at the Fl)1ng Dog Hoo· around the world and consid to sa\·e some cash though, so de- Maybe it wouldn't be so bad. I tel. •it's the best of evel')thing." ered Pariwana somewhat "up spite my ner\'es I agreed to gi\'e it was fascina ted by the number of Pariwana sits across from per class" because of the cleanJi- 12 w...,derer ness and nmning hot water. personal lockers, airport pick HoS1el Pariwa.na offers colorful decor a nd a w ide range of Right across Kennedy Park up, free brcakfru.1 and a variety activities for tra velitrS to enjoy together. Flying Dog Hostel has stood the lar&est of the three Fly• of acri,ities scheduled daily for thtff locales in the same area around Miraflores Central Park. ing Oog Hostels in Miraflores. guests. With such a prime loca· Opposite page, H05tel Kokopelli. The thrffl hostels are walking~ The building was full of natural rion it seemed like there was distance from the M41e<6n (boardwalk.) Pho~os by HA!mAH COLl sunlight, peaceful compared endless e.xcitemenl only a couple to the streets, and backpackers of steps away. could be found lounging in the "It's just the perfed place, open oourtyard on hammocks. the perfect location," said Piero 11lC smell of Pen.ivian food from Adamo, the 25•year-old mar· the restaurant below filled the keting manager of Pariwnna. air. ll was re.la.~ed and catered "Miraflores and Barranco are more toward Jow•key tr.welers where everyone goes to shop and couples due to the number of and eat and drink, so we ha\'e J>rivate rooms they offered. said everything." Ferreira. After e.,i>loring these hostels, I immcdiate.ly thought of my J began to wonder why I e,-er family when I s..·w, 1he Flying questioned staying at one in Dog. 11ley would have loved to the first place, and why other sit outside and relax. or play a people I knew were so skepticaJ. few games of pool. It seems to be a pcnlly·pinching Only a fe"•' blocks away from young adults drtan\. They're A)ing Oog you'll find Ho,,1el Ko· chill by day and alive by night kopelli, but don't let itsjet·black for a c.heap price that includes e.xterior fool you. Inside, the free breakfast! What else can walls arc hand painted and foll of you ask for? vibrant art, tra.iling up the stair "I think people in the United case to the top floor and through States see the mo,ie(Hostel) and the hallways to the moms. A think something bad is going to group of people spra"ied on happen if they stay at one," said rooftop couches and watched a Sona Martirosian, a 2-7-year--old movie on a Hat screen 1V near student visiting from New York the bar. A giant world map hun.g "But they ob,1ously have the near the front door where guests ,,TOng perception,~ could 1>in ,totes to "1,ere the,1\'e With central locations. af• come from and le-a\'e notes. · fordable prices, and 1tevcrend· I would \'Ote Kokopelli as best i.ng opportunities to make new bathrooms of the three. friends, Peruvian hostels are the. All three hostels h•d full way to slay. bars, free Wi·f'i, a travel agent. - D,sigrt by Camero11 Kelly HIP HOSTELS MIRAFLORES, Pariwana Hostel, Uma The three hostels Cote reviewed LIMA. PERU S12·S45/night depending on room while visiting Lima are located in 0 pariwana·hostel.com the Miraflores district. Miraflores 0 (+51) I 242-4350 has bttn called the heart of the city, and is cons.idered a ttendy spot Hostel Kokopelll fo, it:s combination of historical S 1 t ,$40/night depending on room and modem buildings, as well as a 0 hostelkokopelli.com grO\v;ng cultu,al and artistic scene. (+51) I 242·5665 Dotting the area are various 1heaters, cultural centets, art galleries, and The Flying Dog Hostel museurr6, making MiraHores a center I S12·$S2lnight d~p~nding on room of atua w ande-~r 13 the way. but re ...... From a 14 wanderer The Goverment Palace in the main plaza; the Bridge of Sighs in 8.an'anco; the San Francisco Temple was buitt in the XVI century. LIMA LOUNGIN Ci There's lots of popular landmarks in Peru. The majority of tourists land in hs main international airport, the Jorge Ch~vez International Airport, in Lima before departing to the main attractions of the country (right.) However, Lima is slowly transition ing from a stopover into a tourist destination. plans she was looking forward to "pass through" some tourists in Lima. gladly pass through and stay. "In Peru, the best restaurants When Tom Wrtt. 67, and are in Lima," Echeverri said. Loretta Will, 66, planned their "Lima is the caphal. and it's a big trip to Peru they knew they had city with a beautittil bea(h and to stay in Lima for a while, Tom really good food." said. Echeverri also said Lima has "Lima is a place nobody pays many things to offer because it is enO\Jgh attention to but we Jove Tourists •njoying time in Lima: James Duff from Franc., Elisa such a big city. cities, .. Tom said. "I can't imagine Echeverri from Colombia and Tom W.tt from the U.S. .. Here in Lima there are lots coming Ito Peru) without going of interesting city tours and to Lima." "You don't go to Peru with visitors: great views. eats, pet> Larcomar, whkh is a big shop· Tom said when planning their out going to Lima, .. said Loretta. ple. history and more. ping center that is b)• the beach trip to Peru they made sure to .. This is where everything is hap· The top five places to see and on the side of the diff, which is plan around coming to Lima. pening. This is where the gov visit in Lima in 72 hours are: The beautiful,· Ech~erri said. "We first went to the rainfor ernment is. This is the capital." Bridge of Sighs in Barranco. the Echeverri had expectations est, then to Machu Picchu," he l ima is a crucial part of seeing Catacombs under the Convento for Lima unlike Duff but they did said. "We arranged it so that we Peru because it gives you a fu ll de San Francisco in downtown agree on a couple of thi.ngs. could come to Lima for three picture of the types of people Lima, the Indian Market at Av. "The people are w,ry friendly,• days so we could compare it to and cultures here, they said. Petit Thouars S321 in Miraflorts, Echeverri said. "But another other cites around the world "I don't thin le you can under the Government Palace and the reason for coming here is so I can such as Stockholm, Florence, Chi stand Peru unless you have been Plaza de Armas in downtown travel to the other cities and des• cago and Philadelphia where we to the fou r paru of it, .. she said. Lima, and lastly, a walk along tinations in Peru such as Cusco are from." "The city, the rainforest, the the coastline and cliff side in and Machu Picchu." Loretta said coming to Peru mountains and the dood forest Miraflores. Though Lima may still be a and not seeing Lima would be (Mathu Picchu.)" - Designed by .lctmes S611tllez major spot for tourists to just wrong. Lima offers many things to tothe wanderer 15 • uan Vajillo, 38, fivefrom stands Uma ownsin so JLima, Peru's Indian Market located at Petit Thouars 5321, which stands in the wealthy and touristy Miraflores district. On a typical day he sees hundreds of peopte and tourists come and 9¢ touching the soft alpaca wool, 0 LITILE intrigued by all of the various colors in his shops. But hardly ever do they actually buy any, thing. Vajillo acquires most of his money from exporting. MONEY "I t,avel to Moscow, Russia ever yea, twice a year to export I11dia111:1arket vendors battle it out for tourists to my things,,. Vajillo said. "That survive, but don't 111i11d.frie11d/y co,npetition money and business I get in exporting to canada and Russia STORY & PHOTOS BY ROSE SMITH·WOOLLAMS every year is much more than anything I make at the stores. .. can they make a living with all His stores are comprised of Vendors at the Indian Market of the other vendocs selling simi· souvenirs, S\veaters. t·shirts, hats, in Lima must compete for tour· lar, ~metime-s almost identical blankets, pillows. shoes. socks. ists' attention by waving colorful items? scarves, pisco glasses and more. S - A growing culture ofskateboarders in the upscale outdoor mall Larcomar ,1n o 1-t Y .\ P ll(J'l'OS tt, MIC IIAbl Mi i l,hR this pla1... 1 since its ooru,1.naction in 1998, but friendly. We 3)1 skate togc.1her," said 17-year· that is hardly the case. old Kevin Prisse Vllsque-l. aroomar, a park and outdoor Several years ago, Larcomar offered a dif \o\rith few s.kateparks in Lima, street skate mall located off of the bu;'Y Ave feren t vibe. The pla1,a was loaded with police boarding remains the best option. Some nida Jose Larco in the M:iraflores office.rs. The officers were not fans of skate• people skate down the ~1reet tlS .i form of neighborhood or Lima, is full of boarding and would ,"1ite tickets to anyone transportation, while others skate and do children,L shoppers and security guards. Ev skating, according to locnl skateboorders. tricks. Howe\'cr, Larcomar is not unique in ery day, thousands of people shuffle in and · so we made protests, with all skaters, its location. Skaters ciln be round~, public out, usually tl1cir wallets much lighter and and we came, with a parade and boards, and Squares throughout Lima. For the most pan, their b~ heavier. [the police) went," said Alejandro Muchotri sh-eel skatios is hassle free and skateboards from the masses, skateboarders emerge. go Minaya, a 26--year..old skater from Lima. hit pcdcstril.UlS mrely. according to local f rom sunrise to the beautiful Pacific sunset, -ibe next day, ,,•hen \\"e came to skate, the skateboarders. skaters inhabit this pla1.a. Larcomn.r ac.1s as a whole floor was filled "'ith d.irt and rocks that Small cliques develop, but no one stays in meeting ground for skaters to hang out and the police had thrown so we oouldn ·, skate. one group the whole time. Convers..,tions are skate together, ~ tally 0 11 Sundays when People sent letters to the mayor. Now they started "ith every pop of the skateboard. at least so skaters converge at this square. don't care, but you need to be careful with With everyone skating together, progres Larcomar boasts smooth fia t grot1nd and the people walking." he added. sion is e.,'J)Cdited, Young kids play games of endless waxed ledges, 11ot to n1entio11 a few No longer full of dirt and rock, the ground skate with the older sponsored skaters. These bikini bottoms that walk by on their way is smooth and sJippe1)', perfl-'t't for learni1,g kids are learning t1icks1 but importantly, to the beach. Street vendors are dispersed tricks. It's hard to imagine Lareomar \o,i thout style. They learn how to pop their tricks high l11roughout the 1:>a r~ making v.·ater and skaters. Only by working together have the and land smooth. snacks easily accessible. E\'Cll with the sea of skaters created the change they wnnted. .. Five years ago. skateboarding was much people constantly flooding the spot, skaters Through this unit)\ a massive skate scene different. These last five )'·ears, kids have got manage to find g..1.ps betwoon crowds, la11d• has emerged. gro"'fog daily. Anyone who ten good,"said Jano Paeheoo. a 28•)'ear-old ing tricks bcrv.-ccn strol.lcrs. comes to t..1rcomar is greeted by hand· skater and business 0M1er. The skaters here are friend)y and welcom shakes, smacks, head nods, and •,eomo Kids skate alongside each other, fllming ing to nearly everyone wiU1 a skate.board. eStis?" their friend's tricks, revitwing the footage, Security guards, on foot and on Scg'\\13)', Skaters trickle in and out all day, some ~nd switching off. l 1le camera is handed back patrol the perimeter, and pedestrians know sta)ing all day, others coming only for their a.nd forth, i11 constant limbo. TI1rougb this not to stop or sit. Skaters ha"e the right-of· lunch break. electronic medium, kids can review what they way at t.arcomar. Looking around, it would "' I come here almost everyday. It's tl1e ::ire doing, make lweaks and laod pe1fect. be easy to think t11at skaters have dominated place to skate. E.vel)•one is here. Eve1yone is - Design by Preston Hau 18 wanderer SM Miguel t aMoli~ I...'"' / ~-I ...... ,.• GOOG\(MA?S ·~· Larcomar is an outdoor mall WMre familie-s. skaters and tourists mingle for shopping. entertainment and dining alongside th• Pacific Ocean. IS SKATEBOARDING A CRIME? Pro·Sl wande,-r 19 A Peruvian school uses food to teach Spanish to non Spanish speakers. STORY AND PHOTOS BY SYLVIA oet N eaming how to speak Spanish in Peru could Llead you to the kitehen. That's what happened to 22:·year-old Amerk·an student Peter Rothe. Rothe filled a pepper ,-ith a seasoned ground beef mixture duriqg a cooking class at El Sol Spanish School, located at Grimaldodel Solar 469 in the Miraflores district of l.ima. The class teacl,es ,-ocabulary in Spanish as well as the history of traditional Peruvian dishes. The Peru,ian food "is pretty much new for me, .. said Rothe from Washington. O.C. ·1didn't even know what food they had leno (l,ot red pepper st\1ffed ";1.h Mi1a.gros Chumpitaz, the Peruvian, took the class to learn in Peru." a misture that contains bee(, on general coordinator of the Span about his wife's culture. He and In these classes, students le.trn ions, garlic, butter), soltcrito (a ish school, said 10 years ago the his ,,ire decided to learn how to about local agriculture. To prac salad made with onion, cheese, directors ofthe school decided cook because they didn't know tice more Spanish they are taught salt. pepper, com, tomato, to add fun activities in their cur how, how the di.shes arc made and the and Lima beans), t hicken cov riculum enabling the sn1dents to •we moved (to Peru] five mea.ning of the names of fruits. ered in pisco sauce, and for des learn Spanish at the same-l'iine. r)lOnths ago with the intent to TI1is is one of the reasons Rothe sert, suspiro a la limeiia (made Tl1e idea of the cooking class learn the language a.nd the cul· recommends this class. "ith condensed milk, evaporated was born. ture;" said Thomas, who is from ·Even though he didn't get milk, cinnamon, eggs. sugar, va Classes like salsa dancing Te.xas. m·el)'lhing he understood the nilla and swec.t "inc.) and cine club (movie club) were Although he docs not know point of the history,' Che la Te 'The students learn that added in the curriculum. how to cook, the class helped his jada, tl1e cookiqg class instruc the suspiro is called so bet-ausc · n,e cooking classes arc an wifo connect \\ith her culture. tor, said about Rothe1s learning natives from Llma, Peru, sigh excuse for students to interact It was their first opportunity to experience. when they eat this sweet des in Spanish and forget a little or tty anticuchos made from cow's Rotl,e agreed. sert," Tejada said... In some their language,· Chumpitaz said. heart. 'The Spanish school is very classes some students take notes, "We have [students] from all "She picked up some ,1uff helpful,' Rothe said. "Especially (even though she gives them the nationalities." from the class, H Thomas said. for me. t didn't even know about handout of the recipes]: Phil Thomas, married to a "She has the notes, the class was South America. I didn't study it in high school or Spanish either.· Tejada has been teaching the class for se\'en years. Students or non-students can register for the • class for around $10. "I tried to make tl1c students Sin participate in the class,'" Tejada said. "At the same time, I give them the Pen1vian histOt)' of the food." During this course, students leam how to cook rocoto rel- earn The rocoto pepper is a hot. thick-walled pepper common in Bolivia and Peru. They can be traced to 5,000 years ago, when they are believed to have been used by the Inca people. White there are different forms of the pepper, the one awesome, and we cooked a little most common in Peru is large something and ate it. \\'e got to and red. cook four dishes," he said. Sou10 JIOCOTO.COM Too cooking class is offered every Friday and the recipes Suspiro a la Ii.men., left. made VOO)'. of eggs. dnna.mon, sugar and 11.>e Hispana Spanish Lan SWff1WiM. guage School in Lima also offers cooking classes for students although tl1eschool doesn't charge an add,itional price for the class. "We can say tlrnt the cooking classes at Hispana help students practice liste11ing co,nprehen sion and oral e.xµression in Spanish," said Hispana Oire<:lor Kathy Mujica. "Jt helps them to know a very important aspect of Peruvian culture, as is the food linked to celebrntiuns, traditions and social customs and a little more about the geography and history." - De. don't eat meat, milk or egg,.5," I said in my bumbling Spanish. "Yo no como came, 1eche o hucvos.· Here in Peru, the word for vegan is \·egaJ10,' but nobody see.ms to have heard of this, The waiters' eyes ligbt up and they say, "Ohbh, you are uegetari- ana." Not (1Uite. Peru is .1 oountry known for it delectable dishes of ceviche (raw fish marinated in a citrus), cuy (guinea pig) and other animal JJ rl.Xluct-p,1ckcd platcS. Howev er, Peru also produce.s avocado, asparagus, potatoes, corn and a variety of other vegetables that can be roasted or tossed togeth ei· oo a salad. Still, in many restaurants meals mu.st be modifiOO for vegans to remove not only the meats, but also creams, cheeses and other animal-b.1sed foods. ln a city of nearly 9 million people, Lliere are only a small handful of vegan and vegetarian restaurants, but the trend may be catching on. Jessica Loyola., a \'¢gan and life-long resident of Lima, says it is diffico)t to eat in Te.\Til unmts throughout the city because there is not much demand for \'eg,CUl products. &' Here. we consume a lot of chic.ken, me.at ,rnd fish," Loyola said. " 'Vegan· is associated more with rf.! ligious choices, separate from a hea1tby eating cu lh1re, which is very neglected in lhi~ country." A waitress and cashier at Ara bica Espresso Bar in Mirnflorts, Mnriaclara V.ilencia, 21, said she had never heard of veganism until she started working at the vegan-friendly coffee bar. The vegan diet is the hardest diet out there. "Poople really don't know a Although it is easy for people to find locations that offer lot about what is vegan because they confuse it a lot with ,,eg vegan alternatives on their menu in the United States, etarian/ Valencia said. '"So tht)• just ask a lot of questions be restaurants abroad are barely catching on. cause it's intere$ting and differ• ent to tl1em. t don·t even know that much about the difference between vegan and veget.ari;rn. I don't tl1ink many people do." Ari.ibic.:a s 2 2 wanderer tries. coffee and desserts, includ restaurants in Lima, including ing a vegan coffee cake and a Pachamama_, a Pemvian and VECAN RESTAURANTS NEAR MIRAFLORES mini, pf'e--v,Tapped lemon cake. International cuisine restaurant Valencia said many customers in San Miguel, Raw Care, which Unfottuf\ately Arabica ln Li ma is now dosed but buy the vegan desserts simply sen·es raw vegan cuisine a)o1tg• here are four locations that offer vegan and out of curiosity, not because. side.its storefront of superfoods vegeta,ian dishes and are open for business near they are vegan t11emse.h•es, but in Miraflores, and Yami, an Miraflores. Peru, tend to like the taste because it intern,11tional cuisine destination is stronger and more concen in Llnoo di.strict. trated than their dairy-filled Other restaurants such as alte.rnatives. Govinda, a Hare Krishna, vegan Grov.ing up in Lima, Carlos friendly cstoblishmcnl, located Alberto Taipe, had also never in the Miraflores neighborhood, heard the vrord "'vegano." NO\',' ser;e everything from Peruvian S"'"II sectbn 3-2 and ,,.rorking as a server in dishes of vegetable-sniffed avo of tin:~. Pr,u Mirnflores, he has still never cadOl?S to Chinese-style plates of heard the term. He explains veg rice, vegetables and soy protein. etarianism is vel)' uncommon Even some non-vegetarian in Peru. re.,;taurants are following suit, replacing meat with tofo in ccrtaht dishe..; such as stir-fry. "Not only are The.re arc Chinese and Mediter people not r.mean cuisines that offer a mul Pacific vegetarian around tih1de of choices for a struggling Oceon here, but there vegan in a city full of meats and creams. are not many Being ,,eg:m while travel people with food ling in Peru can be challenging. allergies." Sources of whole protein are I'"'°• I hard to come by, as beans are """ ALBERTO TAJ PE often cooked in animal fat and Restaurant seruer rite plates are loaded with sea-- food. Often, it is hard to modify 1. PAWV\MAMft M§#le- Add,ess: Av. Tacna 697, San Miguel "Not only are people not veg dishes because of the way the Phooe: 2637968 etarian around he.re, but there basic ingredients are cooked. are not manypoeplewith food I can remember eight years The vegan restc1urant opened it:$ doors in August 2013 and a11ergies," Taipe said. ago whe1.1 Tbecame vegan. Many offers Peruvian and western cuisine. Valencia said there arc a people didn't know what 'vegan' number of vegetarian res meant. It wasn't nearly as much 2. YAMI M#bi,_ taurants in Lima with vegan a part of U.S. culture as it is Address: Juan Bielovucich 1392, Unce options. Valencia pointed out now,just like it isn't a part of Ph°"e: 22 !69~9 another vegetarian restaurant Peruvian culture, but it Ls grow ()n the same block as Arabico, ing as the number of vegetarian A vegan 0 Restaurant and Ofganic store. Serves raw and vegan food for breakfast. lu.ndl, tea time, and early dinner. The store sells superfood like spirulina, Peruvian cacao ni~ mac-a, oils., and more. 4, (jOYJIIPA MH1MFilMM Address: Schell 634, Miraflores Phone: 4458487 ser~ soups, curried sti,.f,ys with rice, and more. Also a small shop selling Incense, dothes. heahh food and snacks. • lnfonniltlon on restaurants wch as addn::sses. phone numbers and menu spedtie are from HappyCow.com wanderer 23 tarchaholics re joice! With over 4,000 types of spuds native to the ]and, Peruvians almost aJways fea h1re potatoes in thefr cuisine. t don't think f'm alone when I say I t11ought potatoes origi nated in Ireland or Idaho. .Being my favorite food, you'd think I would know better. Sadly I'm no culinnry master, so when I found out the hearty, delicious potato was born in Peru, it was news tome. Whether its boiled chunks io soups, a oold slice of sweet potato on a plate full of ccviche, or mashed, layered and stuffed with tasty filling, potatoes are C\'¢.C}"vhere. Lima is even hoinc to the A potato connoisseur explores three lntemational Potato Center, an institute whose mission is starchastic offerings in Peruvian cuisine to achieve food security, weJJ being, and gender equil)• for poor people in root and tuber STORY BY HANNAH COLE I PHO TOS BY ANGELA CONNERS farming. But \\ith an infinite number of Peruvian dishes that highlight taters, how do you know which one to choose? I had some help from t.ima locals and narrowed it down to three of tl1e to)) eats throughout the country: Causa, Papa a la Huancaina and Papa Rellena. Causa CiUl be found all over menus in Peni. Lei me break down the dish for you. It's typi cally potatoes mashed with aji verde paste, Lime juice, so.It a,1d l>CPJ>Cr and cooled into two 2.4 w anderer LIMA IS HOME TO THE INTERNATIONAL POTATO CENTER (CP) like the, potatoes in Ireland bet ter," Mazan said. Despite his opinion, I was tl1rilled to see a plate of Papa a la Huancaina sen·ed before our meaJ during a night out in Llm(I. I had heard abou1 it but had11'1 tasted it yet, so when I fin ally did, l understood the hype. The texture of the potatoc,s was perfect and the sauce was thick, creamy and full of flavor. I was able to try Papa Rellena while on a bus ride through the Sacred Valley of Cusco, a few days before leaving Per(,. At first they looked like little d iecsc sticks, but once 1 bit in I knew l was way off. What I fi rst thought was fried dough hmu?d out to be fried mashed potatoes. These potatoes are stuffed, usually with a spic;ed grouod beef, but there aJ'c a multitude of possi· bilities, and the.n fried in oil. lt's super easy and always delicious. It's aJso a great way to utilize leftover mashed potatoes! Peruvian dishes are so fl ~ ible and can accommodate anyone's specific tastes. the influences of circular shaped patties, then ations of Causa. One was made creamy sauce called Huancaina flavor from different countries stuffed with a layer of some with swcct potatoes, stuffed sauce. Its main iitgredients are make Peni's cuisin(! one. oflhe combination between. It can be with crabmeat, and topped with queso fresco (farm cheese) and most versatile in the V.'Orld. anything from chicken salad, to a seafood sauce, while the other aji verde. Oo top, you'll usually "Everybody is mixed, so that seafood c;c:mcoctions, to crellmy was jelly potatoes stuffed with fo1d bard-boiled eggs and black means a lot of mixed food," said avocado 'Aith tomatoes. n,e crabmeat and topped with an olives. Rusian Rodriguez Silvennarut, possibilities are endless. Asian chicken sauce. Talk about "Papa a la Huancalna was 43, of Pent ""There is a wide "causa is one of my fa.,.orite delicious. The dish captures the originally from the highlands in mriety. You could try a differ Pemvian dishes," said Martin love of pot.a toes here in Pent and Pc:rt'i," said Pennian native Ra ent dish for every meal on every Valdivia, server at Embarcade,. highlights the variety of fla,·or fael Mazan Palacios, 29. day.• - Design by Kyle Holley r041 Restaurant in Lima, where combinations that the country is Much like me, Mazan didn't rate my first Peruvian meal that known for. even know p0tatoes originated DISHES PHOTOGRAPHE.D COURTESY Of just so happened to be causa. Not even a 1ne.i1u page away in tlt@P eru\'ian Andes until he MAOIU F'tCOiU RESTAUMHT "It's a traditional dish here in you'll find Papa a la Huancaina, saw a commercia) a few years 3856 N. ASHtANO AVE. CHICAGO Pel"U. lt's been around forever, another traditional potato dish ago. He lived in Ireland for 15 and you can find it on almost in Peru. T)i,ically served cold years and had thougM the JlO any menu here... and as an appetizer of so1ts, the tato was from Europe. '!'he dish I had at Embarcode soft, boiled yellow or white po "I enjoy the potato sticks on ro41 featured two different vari- tatoes are smothered in a spicy, top of the burgers here, but I wanderer 2.5 For thousands of years, guinea pigs have been doniesticated andusedfor consumption in LAUR£N TIMMERMAN Andean culture. the guinea pigs Kurry in their clay structurH where they a.i-. to gf'Ow and harvest weight In order to be sold for butchering and to l'fltaurants. BY LAUREN TIMMERMAN - ... he golden, crispy, blistered skin wrapped around each little finger with its claws still intact. Whiskers SJ)routcd from its greasy wood·fired nose. Its jawbone was still intact, teeth im1>ac:tcd 't\'lth a vibra11t red chili pepper stuffed down its throat Its body was filleted open and spread across the platter like a bed sheet. Surrot.1nded by Peruvian LAUREH TIMMEJlMAN potatoes and salsa, the presen~ Ruben Nayayapo explains the many Penivian superstitions tation was beautiful. Staring surrounding the guinea pig. down at the plate, re«.>nsidering the ne.'<1: stc-ps I was about to take in life, I remembered my grade school class pet, Trixie the guinea pig. A small tear rolled down my cheek as I took my fi rst bite of a classic Pen1vian dish, guinea pig or cuy. The guinea pig in American culture is typically thought of ILS a peL Soil was surprising to see how the animaJ was treated and years. The guinea pigs ta..:;te like used for consumption in Pern. cllicken,• said Ruben Nayayapo, Watching the small fu,.zy a young boy from Pisac, Peru. creatures nibble on grass and The adorable little rodents hay in a guinea pig hut in Pi.sac, arc housed in day structures, in the Peruvian Andes, it \'las ,sith little hand-made bridges hard to imagine how they could that connect from hut to hut. ever be an)1hing more or less • This i.~ where the guinea pigs Lhan something to coo ov~r. AMERICAN PET, grow up to harvest weight and Roasted on a spit, baked in a are then sold for butchering and wood fired oven or simmered in PERUVIAN off to restaurants. a ~1cw, the little 1tnimal tasted Ruben said be preferred cuy like greasy chicken. DELICACY over chicken. Ruben looked to "Guinea pigs Jive for three be about the age I "'as when l 26 wanderer author of.,Guinea Pig in Andean Folk Cuhurc." The common GUINEA PIGS RAISED BY EUROPEAN ratio of maJe to female guinea COLONIZATION pigs is I to 7 and litters of three to four are common. Wheo the In 2007, evidence has pigs are plump, around tv.·o shown that guinea pig.s years, they will start 10 have ba· were domesticated pets by bies. Once a large litter has been Elizabethean social classes in produced the more robust pigs Europe. 1 A ,,mbe selected for harvest. guinea pig skeleton was "'lbe c.uy was a part of the found in a backyard cellar of Inca culture. tht:)' had ceremo a former middle-class house nies with the cuy," said Adolfo in Mons, Belgium. which was Gon2.iles, manager of El Manu once part of the Spanish E~ Restaurant in A.go.as Calientes, pire. Radiocarbon dating of at the foo t o(Madrn Piochu. the bones shOW1'd that the Gonzales said tl1at the cuy is guinea pig lived around the stm used to celebrate Inca tradi· 16th and 17th centuries soon tions in large ceremonies. after the Spanish arrived to "The alpacas and llamas are South America. dressed with beaui-ifol colors Guinea pigs are rare to and flowers, the cuy are placed find in Europe'$ archeologi· into aged hands to cleanse,,. c.al record, but when guinea Gon.u\Jes said. pig remains were foun d Around the 17th century in a recent sructy, evidence 1,000 guinea pigs and 100 Da showed that its skeleton mas were sacrificed during an was complete and was not annual cerc11101ly in Cusco, but processed as food. Paintings the rituaJ slaughters are no lon at the time of the I 6th and ger practiced in pllblic. 17th century displayed guin Many of tourists oome to Pem ea pigs with multi,olored in hopes ofgaining a perspective and white hair, which are on how the native culture lives. genetic traits asrociated with f:.alfog Lhis traditional dish is on domestication. the to do list for many travelers. Analysis of the chemical "\•Ve travel a lot, I ha\'e always elements of the guinea pig's been curious about the tradi bones revealed the animal tional cuisines here in Peru. The had eaten mo The Peruvian wanderer 29 In this Peruvian n1arketplace, providing entertainment sometimes means bending the law. BY GIANCARLO ARIAS-CICCARELLI ehind the government This is• place to buy any type palace in downtown of film past. present and future. Lima stands a market· I'm led down a path where ven place where anything dors sell the,e films on the cheap. from knickknacks to There are multiple entrances clothing. movies to electronics in this enormous t\Yc>-floor de can be bought or found cheaply. sign marketplace. When you first It's called Polvos Azule~ enter. you feel you're in a new I heed warnings not only city with new laws and new ways from toutists but also from locals to spend plara (money). to keep watch over your belong Security guards and occa ings on the outskirts of this mar• sional police officers roam the ket where "stolen'" merchandise tight aisles of this market,. while is sold, and food vendors flock customers flock to their favorite to dump any and all products floor or sections. to, sale. I headed one floor down 0 Javier (top) is a 22-year-<>ld video worker who sells toward the middle of this place section of Block 20.1 met Javier, questionably and found electtonics at count· 22, a video worker who respect· obtained less stands. fulty didn't want to give out his films in Each aisle holds 10 to 15 last name. Technically he"s bteak Uma's Polvos kiosks. Vendors line up lit with ing the law selling reproduced Azu/es. n,., massive 40-inch Samsung LEO movies. list of movies lVs, playing whatever block· But he was wi lling to talk fo r spans from buster hit from the United States. an interview while othe,s, for the old to the Each shop is as big as a single obvious reasons, didn't want to new to the dorm bedroom packed wall to talk, be filmed or recorded. unreleased. wall with the late-st movie and Javier explained that all of his class film noir flkks. merchandise is extracted from Each vendor has• flipbook the l.ntemet ftom torrent web -as thick as the Bible-showing sites where a vendor needs to be all the movies available for sale. wbs wanderer 31 Many seniors in Peru with limited access to pensions . TO THE or savings return to work WRITIEN BY PATRICA BOSCAN I PHOTOS BY LAUREN TIMMERMAN DESIGNED BY ELIZABETH EARL ario Charnbi, 74, provide him a home; he resides with one of has sat behind his their farni1i es. oonfectiomuy stand .. It's vciy hard to .nakc a fi o.aileial plan sb: days a week on that \\ill help you retire, especially when you a street corner of only make S/. 750 a month and you have a the Miraflores dis· fi1mily to suppo1t," Cham bi said. Jtrict in Lima for more than 20 years. At the current exchange rate of 2.75 Pern Now a widower, Chambi sets up his vian Soles to the dollar, this would work out stand Monday through Saturday and sits pa· to about US$272 a month. n,c legal mond!ly tiently, waiting fo r the occasional customer minimum wage in Peru is S/. 675 (US$254), or the usual friend who helps pass the time. Chambi added that there are familial Although he 'A'Oli;ed for a larger company values in Peru that strongly encourage earlier in his life, Cha.mbi was not able to children to help their parents as they age. retire at 65. Like many Peruvians, he does Many elderly Pernvians move ln with their not have a pension to falJ back on. children or depend on them financially after In the United States, a po1tion of workers' retirement as a cultural norm. Although liv paycheeks go toward their Social Sec\lrity to ing v.itb family cuts down on the costs of a help them secure funds for the futtire. Many rent or n mortgage, Chambi explains that for Americans also save for l'Ctircment through .. him, operating the st.and is aJso a matter of out their working years. independence. While Americans have a regular Social "'I can't be at home. beanise at home you Security benefit 10 count on, for the Pe get tired and boring," C11ambi said. ruvian working class, a nest egg is not According to the U.S. Social Security a1ways possible. In Peru, it is common Administration, Peru works under a social to walk the streets and see senior C.iti· insurance and individual account system. In zc1\S working at any time of the day or Chambi's casr.., he. wouJd ha\•e only been able night. to retire at 6s ifhe had oontnl,uted for 20 "'Here in Peru, they ask fo r a moun· years in order to receive government ad min .. tain of requisites," Chamb i said. "You istered retirement benefits. lug the papen,1ork hel'e and back and For Victor Herrera OJ bas, 60, who repairs we gel tired of walking back and forth be v.icker baskets in the Miraflores c.fo,irict, it is tween places." a matter of J>ride as welJ. l.uekiJy for Cl1ambi, the stand is not his "My wife and I stm ha\·e strengtl1 to sole resource. . In addition to his business, he work," Herrera said. has sons who financially support him and Herrera was able to rec:eive on early pen .. 32 wanderer sion at tlte age.of55 because he had at least 30 Herrera takes his work ethic from his Mario O,ambi, 74, has sold confections rears of contribution in the workforce under mother's example. Leisurely, he weaves on the streets of th4l Miraflores d istrict the national Social fru.'1.mmce prot,rram. How the ooloriul thick yarn thrnugh the basket's in Lima to bring in extra income after he ever, he still shows up to Yl'Ork in his stall to splintered fibers, in and out, and perfonns retired 20 years ago. bring in extra inoome because living the same tedious process time and on the pension payout was just again to re.store the damaged With su11 r,ort from her husband and not enough. "It's very basket dropped off by a cus· daughters, Medina made the decision to In his case, the monthly hard to make a tomer. When asked what start up her o,.,n business selling sou"enirs S/. 350 that he earned for he would do ifhe no ,cuANTO CUESTA? For seniors like Mario Chambi, who live on S./ 750 per month (USO S272), how 1~room apartment Basic u1ilities Public transit pass 1 liter of milk hard is it to make ends meet? (outside center of Lima} Sl.180 (monthly) S/.4 S/.691 (USD 64) S/.184 (USD 1.50) (USD 246) (USD 6S.SO) Source NUMBEO.COM wonderer 33 An organization gives human trafficking survivors the tools to live better lives. BY STEPHANIE CASPELICH God for the •Tbehanknefit provided a A workshop for entrepreneurs that is run by Pro Mujer Oriente. to us through the woods, N said Jovi1a Maynas, a member of the Shipibo tribe of San Salvador and a human trafficking survivor. Mayna.s is just one of 54 wom en in Pucallpa, a city in eastern Peru locateseeds, dyes, etc.) Asociaci6n Fore-stal lndfgena de can harm them." to design and make articles of Madre de Dios {AFIMAD) to re According to Not For Sale, a clothing, pieces of jewclry, item.s habilitate and educate women in U.S.•based nonprofit organiza that can be sold to provide them Andean communities who have tion working to end slavery and with a stt~ady income," said been victims of slave labor and human ttafflcking worldwide, Elena Majin, head of the craft human trafficking. women are particularly vulner workshop community in San Liz Tutusima, 31, a la\!\')'er and able to exploitation due to cul Salvador. human rights advocate, started tural expectations around child· "In some cas~. we work to PMO in 201 Oafter reading a care and their inability to earn enhance the skills the women study for her t hesis that revealed an independent income. may already know. In Jovita's .. the wlnetability of women As PMO's biggest supporter, [MaynasJ ca.se, she is a mem- in native communities towards NFS horu artisan craft training ber of the Shipibo tribe gender-based violence decreased for women to learn how to pro known for their artisanal according to the increase of in duce quality jewelry pieces us skills panicularly in pot come." ing seeds and natural materials tery. The designs and "'Our work involves not only found in the Amazon. The items geometric patterns are providing women with the ar are then sold on NFS' online tisanal skilk fjewelry-making, store, local trade shows such as textile production and embroi .. the Expo 2013 Amazon in !qui• de,y, wood carving) to support to~ PMO's website and through Liz 1\rtusi ma is themselves and their families. thei, Fa c:ebook page. the founder of We also provide them with the " Our Micro Enterprise Train Pro M ujer Oriente. opportunity to sell their products ing Program provides indigenous 34 wanderer Division of Research trafficking trafficking and exploitation and to track and stop known cases u ain them to avoid it and report of human trafficking. We work it to the organizations like us closely with them to expose and the proper authorities (Peru· potential routes of trafficking vian National Police}, she said. in Peru (see table). For example, PMO's main goal is to help we know that traffickers from women who are victims of ex· the ,ural Loreto area stop at ptoitation and human trafficking the port of Pucallpa to transfer regain their dignity and suppon their potential victims, Based on their growth as independent repons gathered from research entrepreneurs. and the victim's families, we can ·tt is important for us to pro stop these traffickers by track· vide oppcrtunities to sell items ing their personal documents," ptoduced by these women in a Tutusima said. worldwide market. By doing so, According to Anti-Slavery we spread information to end International, the most common exploitation of women and hu· forms of human trafficking in man trafficking, and we gain Peru are sexual exploitation. more suppott from the interna pornography, sexual tourism. tional community to continue labor exploitation in agriculture, our work and support more logging, mining, factories, and women who come to us for domestic work. help," Tutusima said. "The victims who come to ..We must remember that us risk their lives to report their the purchase of a product helps cases. It is our responsibilrty to women economically Yv'hkh provide them with a safe place then uplifts them spiritualfy and to stay, give them food, psy· mentally, and above all they are chologi 36 w anderer Baby alpaca items come from the first shfff'. Originally white. blade and bn>wn lh•y can be dyed in different colors. Maribel Condori Gonzilles, secretly, take some fibers off the a shopkeeper at !nka Parick in sweaters." said Monika Giuliana Lima, continued to tell shop Osorio, owner of AJpaca Fashion pers running their fingers over at the loka Market in Lima. vibrantly colored scarves and Osorio sbo\,'00 me a trick, socks that they were pure baby She lightly plucked some fibers T11E CAM ELID5 FROM SOUTH AMERICA alpaca. from four of her beautiful sweat• To offer a comparison, the ers and lit them on fire. Each highest concentration of gold had a unique odor. The smell of jewcll)• is 24 lwat, but it's al plastic rose from the cheapest. ways mixed with other metals to The second smelled like burning prO\;de solidity. Similarly, if a human hair. She explained these sweater were made of pure al had the most synthetic material LLAMA AlPACA 111ruf+-SOu1et NATKINALGEC,fjAAPH(IAlt HIV;~G·' more real," Condori said. "See, this last one has a syn· But not all of the items are ac- using fl eece from the camelid So the que.stion remains: thetic material Tt1s not as soft as tually 100 perceot natwal and family - mostly alpaca-for cen- How can you tell what's real, this sweater mixed with cotton," autbeotic. turies as trade in textiles and as what's fake, and what is the Osorio said. ;,I shouldn't ten you that a sign of wealth. Tirny have been ootton-to-Oeece ratio? The sweater that was mtxed tl1ese materia)s are not 100 per- a treasure of the Andean people \'veil, if you lead an alpaca ,\11 th cotton was softer, yet more cent baby alpaca. But because for over 6,000 years. to grass and ask him nicely to expensive at S/.~o, nearly you arc. \o\'liting a story, and l When ga,nne.nt.s are advcr.. nibble, he just might. All alpaca US$8o. The one mL,ed with don't wa.nt to give my country tised as 100 percent baby alpaca garments and textiles are mixed synthetics was S/.130 or S50, a bad name, the nlp;ica Oeece is it means they have been made with other materials. Determin The least expensive sweaters typically 1ni: •• ••• •n••, ..., .,,,·•• .,,.,,.,._,.,. •••••" • •• .. •••", 00400 • • •,,, ..., , •• • ••• ••••• •••••• ••• ••• •• • •, .. ,., • •• ••• ,.., , ,.04,, .. , ,, •••••••••••••• ,,.. _ _,,,_,.,, ••• •••••," ••• 00,"... .-·· ••••••••••.••••• ··-·· ...... ·- ····· •••••••••••••••••••••••••••• ' ••••.••••••••.••••..•, •••. ·-···...... ··- ···-···--· ...••••• ·- ··· ·""! ' When indigenous women weave for their families today, they still move toward synthetic material due to its time-saving qualities and more intense shades of color. "You see them weave blan Papacho incorporates woven in all of my art... when J>eople kets in their own shops, so you textiles into his own pieces. He don ·t consider the patterns know [ if Lhey're handmade]. specializes in leather goods, they're making, it's not special,.. But some just buy a lot of parlicularly bags and wan hang Papacho said. them to sell, made by ma· ings. Each piece features some Soine of t11e patterns in chines. You never know unles.s sort of wool-woven design, and the textiles are representa you see llhem made) or ask; usuallv plants inspire them. tive of nature- sons, rivers, Papacho said. "I make patterns of roots and mountains. This further emphasizes the import{lnce that lhe indigenous place on Pacllamama. Despite how common these woven item.s are, they're not Lhat common among non-indig enous Peruvi:ms. Jn the more urban areas of Peru, for ex• ample - the Miraflores district in Llma- residents tend not to even buy the patterns that Ll1 cir \."Ountry is known for. "'We know that the clothing ¼ill always be here. Touri~h; buy it because they only stay in Peru for a couple of weeks," said Juan Siucho Seminario, a resident of Miraflores. This makes it pretty easy to pick out a tourist in Limtt, If the camera around somoone·s neck doesn·t give it away, the bright patterned backpack "ill. But tourist consumerism in Peru is whal stimulates the economy and provides fo r the Andean people. So when tourists lake home these souvenirs, they're doing so much more than add ing a new scarf or pair of shoes to their closet- they're bringing home a true piece of Peru. - Design b.v Makenzie Damm PERUVIAN AREAS WHERE QUECHUA 15 WIDeLY SPOKl!N ECVADOR COLOMBIA Quechua is the mosts:poken language family in South America. The orange areas indicate vklere Qu«hua is still most ,... commonly spoken 0 throughout current BOLIVIA da}• Peru. An Indian girl in Pisac, Source RUl~ASIMLOE Cusco, carrying he, pet Attin KARINA CORONA goat. Photo DELANEY DWAlU.tNEHAN CHILE EMBRACING women walking BY PATR ICIA BO SCAN through Ma«hu Although a large number ofPeruvians speak Quechua, the historically negative stign1a behind the ancient chua and uJtimately work for lncan tongue continues to linger in the Quechua culture Educaci6n lntercu)tural Bilp ingiie or lntercultural Bilingual Education. £TB works to teach s I walked around the hem. As I obsessed Inca. According to Ethoologue, children in Spanish as much as down the over the intricate work, a bilin an onlioe refrence catalog on in their native language to main cobblestone gual Quechua woman quick1y all of the world"s languages, tain both eulwrcs in the run.. streets of jumped in to offer her ser Peru reports that the number of oess of time and define cuJtural Cusco, I vices. It was something I never individual languages is 105. Of identity. fo und myself tltought I would need in Peru as those, 11 are extinct, and 16 are Sl1nche1. reside.~ in the coastal looking every a fluent Spanish speaker. dying. city of Trujillo where she says it which way any time l cattg ht a Parts of Peru, such as Cu.seo, Peruvian M6nic.a S.Anchez. is uncommon to hear a Que(;hua snippet of Quechua. Tile fast are rich in bilingualism and bi said she is one of the nationals speaker. MeaU\\fhjJe, the (u1·ther pace of the language ond the c1.dturalism. Quechua is not only who want to revaJ \le t-he ooun av.1ay J traveled from the major simple flow of it v.'as even more a native language but an entire Lry's native languages. cities, the more I was able to predominant in the more re. culture as well, reflected through "My great-grandparents were reaJi?,.e that tllere was nothing mote Sacred Valley of CUsco. its ov.'ll linguistics. Quee.hua Spanish but we. 1:1.ll have some smaJJ about this minority group. At one point, I was bargain people are direct descendtmts of cholo (another word for mes .. Here, I was definitely a minority ing fm· a skirt with a Quechua the locas and throughout colo ti:z.o, meaning a person of mixed as a Spanish speaker. woman through a translator. nization and history, the culture European and NatiYeAmeri "nl irty percent, that means i Haykataq kay? How much is survived and thrived. cau heritage) in us and we are nine million people, can speak this? Quechua is the ~urviving proud," Sanchez said. Quechua," said Arturo Palomino l11e skirt was black witl1 language of tlte Inca Empire Sanchez is in the process of Marin, a Cusro tour guide. vibrantly colored embroidery although it even predates the taking classes 10 leam Que- Yet while the tv.·o cultures 40 wanderer harmonize in cities like Cuseo, other places are just no\v over• coming discrimination and di\'ersifying. According to the CIA Wo rld Faetbook, the Peruvian popu• lation stood at 29,849,303 in 2013. About one-third of this population lives in Lima, where the Quechua culture has been historically rejected. 'For a lot of people, it was a shame to speak Quechua. They were looked do,,11 on, seen as lower class and inftriort o oilier Peru,ians; said Adolfo Conzales, restaurant manager of El Manu in Aguascalientes. Despite past contempt, addi· "We w ere born tional funding was made ava.il· Quechua and w e able for bilingual education in places where Quechua people cannot forget are c:onccntratcd. that." Many Quechua people rejeet -ADOLFO GONZA.LES, bilingual education, protesting rest Quechua boys pose for the camer,eii in Cusco's S~red Valley of the Incas. wanderer 4 1 As soo11 as I laid eyes on a small stone hllt that stood bettuee11 ,ne and the gl'eat Ma ngela's alarm went off at 4 a.m. I could hear the rain pouring onto the aluminum roofs of Aguas Calientes, like bubble wrap popping. I peeked out the hotel window into the vatt darkness and saw thick white clouds smothering the mountains like a blanket. I was wortied. Two weeks in Peru had all led up to this day. We were hiking to Machu Picchu and I couldn't bear to think about the weather stopping us. ·The weather he,e in Machu Picchu is very unpredictable... said our tour guide Wagner Casos Bonnet the night before. "The hike is not ea1}', .. Angela fumbled through her things in our hotel room and went back and forth with a few lets. My heart was racing. I imag Paco. the German She~rd. ined for months what it would accompanied five Columbia feel like to see the image I'd seen Colloge Chicago students on all over the Internet in peuon. their hike to Machu Picdlu. My anticipation was at an all· time high. out the c,owds, yet with all the As we a1 wanderer 43 WORDS & PHOTOS BY ANGELA CONNERS he clouds rose up agaim.."t us like a race to the. top. SING \i\'itl1 every tum, a new photograph THE LENS AT to take, and with every nev.• le\• el reached a new composition to capture. Machu Picx:hu holds im mense photogenic quality and it MACHU PICCHU is often assumed that it's easy to Photographers nl 1\fc1chu Picchu constantly seu1·ch.for the perfect take professional-lookjng photo graphs. So photographers have angle us they discover it is niore d[fficult thC111 they thought to shoot to ask themseh-es how can my 1 Cl images stand out? u11iq11e t•er·sion <1( the the 44 wanderer "We are all taking the w me picture basically, but if you fr;ame it as your own then it wort f"\1.l.Rt;t,tlJJ\ t ,, '/111t11 t 1111 • m, tu lc11t rain, Pipe said he brought equiJ) ment for his personal aesthetic1 which means photographing vast landscapes. This includW a wid~angle to capture the perfect landscapes the old mountains made, and a tripod that could hold u1> against the min. Pipe said it is diffict~t taking original images. "I think it's real ly difficult. I think here you're re lying a lot on the weather," said Pipe. "The fad that everyday it's a little different here, maybe can give you something different, be- oe.ws ao. STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY ELIZABETH GIAOANS DESIGN BY TYLER EAGLE n order to prtpare (or a spir· E\'elia Padilla leads a group and clouds, but I quickly learned itual trip to Machu Picchu, of 30 people to Maehu Picchu, that Machu Pi« .hu would be IJulian Papacho, a spiritual the ancient lncan <:ity. It is not come a spiritual visit for me as it healer from Cusco, S3)~ the mo• Padilla's first visit to Machu Pie· cast SOl1\C of its magic upon me. ment people Jea\'e their routines chu. E\·ery time she ,isits the Tour guides walk alongside visi behind, they are already searcll· mountain, she says it is a magi tors, e.xplaining the history and ing for inner peace. cal experience. purpose of the Incan ruins to the It's easier to reali1.e that once "\\re come to Machu Picchu visitors. Machu Picchu takes your breath beeause ifs a very special place,· Padilla, a Sha.man leader- ;l away. she said. "'We specifically choose term reserved for spiritual heal As Iain making my way past U1is plaoe because the energy ers-has led her group on a pil the Temple oft.he Sun, I come he.re hc11>S ek-,,•ate our le\'el of grimage that started in Mexico. across a group of men and wom~ consciousness." Padilla says people often refer en dressed in white with native Machu Picchu SetS approxi to Shamans as '"medicine men or pray to the: t'()11dor and the eag,le necklaces, bracelets and anklets mately 2,500 visitors C\'ery day. women who have cleansed their in order to bring peace to one that rattled with their e"el)' foot• Some of those visitors tra,·el to souls from fear. '" As her group another's souls," Padilla said. step. n\ey surround an older the city for a spiritual calling. l stops, she opens her anns and ln Inc.an culture, theoondor woman, chanting '"abuela" -the thought I would travel to this raises her head tow(l rd the $k)'. is a sacred bird tJ1at was believed Spanish word for grand moth• world wonder to merely gaze "\Ve are going to conduct a to be the messenger bet,,\~ 11 tJ,e er-in ar\ e.11dearin& tone. upon the horizon, landscape ceremony in which we ,,ill all Earth and the gods in the S~'Y· In the Quechua language-a Ian· guagc native to the central An des mountains- it i.,; k11 own as "Hananpacha." Kaypacha is the Earth and Ukupacha is eonsid· ered the undem·orld that is as sociated "ith death and new be ginnings. Padilla say$ that in order to absorb this energy, we ne I took going Evelia Padilla (left) is a shaman-faith hffler and led a group of 30 pe,ople on a trip to Machi Picchu. up the steps long the ruins, 1 fc.lt Padilla recited a prayer that Giadans wftM.ssed, inspiring her to soak up the experience of the trip. more energetic and powerful. I While on the trip, Elizabeth Giadans' grandmother died suddenly, leaving Giadans in a sta~ of shock. Giadans said SM found inspiration and came to accept~ dtath whil• visiting tlw mountain and said meeting spiritual leaders at the mountain h~lped. does not beli~-e in spiritual riru• - rhc last tin1e I spoke to 111~· als orspiritua l journeys. I SHAMANS Nonetheless, he says that DECODED gr,tndn1othcr in person. she said that through his Bible readings, he Shamant'Sm is a practice that acknowledges that nature can has been in use for t"nOft than I ,vas destined to go to grcJt places." stir up positive fetlings and hap 40,000 year~ a«ording to the piness in a person's heart. Center f0t Shamank Education thought about how the ancient currently are and what you will .. What is energy? Yes, lhere and Exchange, a oon-p,ofit Incas lh"ed in these small sp.,tc· be; Papacho said. are things you cannot ph)'Sically group that is dtdkated es and g;uro at the stars to keep For many years I wanted to ~. God created the earth and to inf01min9 the global track of the time and seasons. travel to Machu Picchu. I never natu re and that's how he talks to community about the spiritual Whnt came to mind was the imagilled that I would be tak.. us," he said. p,actice. passing of my grandmother dur· ing the bus up the cloud forest. The last time I spoke to my A shaman is a person who ing my time in Peru. In a way I However, since I could not \isit grandmother in person, she said has the ability to enter 01het feh guilty tlmt ( wus tr.we.ling in my g:ramhnother Olle last time, that I was destined to go to great planes of being to aid people I remembered what Papacho places. in spiritual guidance and this ancient city and disco\·ering healing. Havil\g originated in new things. said about family members who As I made my way toward my starting point. the clouds ASia, the pra Ab~DURAS ...... _------=::-·- --- ~... :::c..,__------:::-~.:c:-.:::-,::~ =--=--~ TRA'IITWRITtt