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Bordeaux Style Red Wines in South Africa

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Bordeaux Style Red Wines in South Africa Bordeaux style red wines in South Africa Debi van Flymen Dissertation submitted in partial fulfilment for the diploma of Cape Wine Master 2014 Bordeaux style red blends in South Africa 1 Debi van Flymen “He who aspires to be a serious wine drinker must drink claret.” ‐ Samuel Johnson Bordeaux style red blends in South Africa 2 Debi van Flymen DECLARATION I, Debi van Flymen, declare that this research report is my own, unaided work. It is submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the diploma of Cape Wine Master to the Cape Wine Academy. It has not been submitted before for qualification of examination in this or any other educational organisation. Signed: _____________________________________ Dated: ___________________ Bordeaux style red blends in South Africa 3 Debi van Flymen ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS A number of local and international winemakers, educators, critics, industry experts and journalists gave generously of their time and knowledge. Each was keen to share their experience and opinions and several were willing to be quoted herein. Mom and Dad, thanks for your support, encouragement and understanding throughout this journey. Your unconditional love is inspirational and a source of my strength. Ari, thanks for your encouragement across the miles. This journey was not a solitary one; without the camaraderie of fellow Cape Wine Masters students Conrad Louw and Sandy Harper it might not be complete. We have seen each other through the highs and lows of the course since we met in Diploma studies, spurring one another on and providing sturdy shoulders on which to lean. Thank you both for everything and look forward to sharing our passion for wine not because we have to taste something, but because we want to! Cape Wine Masters, Margaret Fry and Derek Ramsden have been invaluable resources. Thanks for your guidance, stewardship and example. As deadlines loomed, you both buoyed my resolve and kept me on track. Thanks to Roland Peens, Cape Wine Masters Junel Vermuelen and Chris de Klerk for your friendship, inspiration and encouragement. You are the consummate role models for “edutaining” tastings and thank you for being generous with your time and knowledge. Special thanks to Busi Yende at the Cape Wine Academy and Soraya Daniels at SAWIS for your support. Encouragement, support and facilitation of blind tastings were provided by the late Richard Hansen. We motivated one another to keep learning. Thanks must go to my Wine Cellar colleagues, family and close friends, many of whom may not have understood my passion for wine or the journey in undertaking formal wine studies but who have nevertheless provided vital support and encouragement along the way. Bordeaux style red blends in South Africa 4 Debi van Flymen ABSTRACT South Africa has been producing Bordeaux style red blend wines since Welgemeend pioneered the blend locally in 1979. The number of Bordeaux style blend producers in South Africa has doubled the in the last ten years. The category has arguably become one of the most important styles of wine produced in South Africa today attracting high ratings from International critics and serving as a calling card for the country on the global stage. This research paper serves as a study of the category of Bordeaux style red blends being produced in South Africa today within the framework and history of what a Bordeaux style blend is in France. The definition of a Bordeaux style red blend wine set forth is a wine that has some or all of the five allowed red grape varieties as permitted in Bordeaux, France: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Producers in South Africa, inspired by the rich tradition and history of the eponymous region in France, make Bordeaux style red blends in a variety of styles from those that are fruit dominant and designed for immediate consumption on release to more serious examples designed for maturation and bottle aging to enhance complexity. By contrast, the enormous scale of production in Bordeaux and the archaic system of getting the wines to market through an en primeur campaign and network of negociants is unique in the wine world. South Africa lacks the production volume, secondary market and sophistication of consumer with adequate facilities for maturation to create a similar futures market at present. There is no legislation governing the use of the term ‘Bordeaux style’ in South Africa. South Africa does not have the same rules and regulations governing the production of wine as does France and Bordeaux in particular. There is no standard definition of the term ‘Bordeaux style red blend’ in use in South Africa which extends into the domain of domestic competition. Bordeaux style red blends are an established feature of South Africa’s wine production today. They will continue to inspire winemakers for generations to come and the evolution of the category will see more innovation and continual quality improvement at all levels. Bordeaux style red blends in South Africa 5 Debi van Flymen TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................................................... 9 2. BRIEF OVERVIEW AND APPELATIONS OF BORDEAUX ................................................................... 12 2.1 Regulations and quality control ............................................................................................ 13 2.2 The Left Bank ........................................................................................................................ 18 2.3 The Right Bank ...................................................................................................................... 19 2.4 Additional appellations ......................................................................................................... 20 2.5 Blending in Bordeaux ............................................................................................................ 21 2.6 South Africa in comparison ................................................................................................... 23 3. TRADITIONAL BORDEAUX RED WINE GRAPE VARIETIES ............................................................... 26 3.1 Cabernet Sauvignon .............................................................................................................. 26 3.1.1 The origin of Cabernet Sauvignon ................................................................................. 27 3.1.2 The relevance of Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux style blends .................................. 28 3.1.3 Cabernet Sauvignon in South Africa ............................................................................. 28 3.2 Cabernet Franc ...................................................................................................................... 29 3.2.1 The origin of Cabernet Franc ........................................................................................ 29 3.2.2 The relevance of Cabernet Franc in Bordeaux style blends .......................................... 30 3.2.3 Cabernet Franc in South Africa ..................................................................................... 31 3.3 Malbec .................................................................................................................................. 31 3.3.1 The origin of Malbec ..................................................................................................... 31 3.3.2 The relevance of Malbec in Bordeaux style blends ...................................................... 32 3.3.3 Malbec in South Africa .................................................................................................. 33 3.4 Merlot ................................................................................................................................... 34 3.4.1 The origin of Merlot ...................................................................................................... 36 3.4.2 The relevance of Merlot in Bordeaux style blends ....................................................... 37 3.4.3 Merlot in South Africa ................................................................................................... 37 3.5 Petit Verdot ........................................................................................................................... 38 3.5.1 The origin of Petit Verdot ............................................................................................. 39 3.5.2 The relevance of Petit Verdot in Bordeaux style blends ............................................... 39 3.5.3 Petit Verdot in South Africa .......................................................................................... 40 3.6 Other Bordeaux red wine grape varieties ............................................................................. 41 3.7 The relationship between the Bordeaux Grapes .................................................................. 42 4. BORDEAUX STYLE BLEND RED WINES IN SOUTH AFRICA ............................................................. 43 Bordeaux style red blends in South Africa 6 Debi van Flymen 4.1 Bordeaux style blends in South Africa as a category ............................................................ 43 4.1.1 Variety of wine drinking styles, price points and production volume .......................... 46 4.2 Viticulture .............................................................................................................................
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