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Mountaineering C Portaledge hanging tents - Baffin Island - 1999 CLIMBING CURRICULUM VITAE NAME: Jerry Gore D.O.B: 15.04.61 NATIONALITY: British STATUS: Married CLIMBING SYNOPSIS EXTREME ALTITUDE - 7 Routes above 6,000M. - all Himalayan countries – all without supplementary oxygen. Three First Ascents: Pungpa Ri (7,486m.); Manaslu North (7,154m.); S.W. Ridge Chopicalqui (6,354m.) EXTREME BIG WALL – Sheer rock walls over 1000m. in vertical height. I have climbed 20 new Big Wall routes Worldwide: Madagascar, Baffin Island, Patagonia, Borneo, Pakistan, Bugaboos, Alaska, European Alps, Greenland, Norway, Russian Pamir’s, and Yosemite. EXTREME ALPINE - 85 alpine routes including 16 First Ascents Worldwide! European Alps, Canadian Rockies, Peruvian Andes, Chile, Argentina, Nepal and India Himalayas, and Southern Greenland. I have climbed on expeditions with the World’s best including Warren Hollinger, Mark Synnott, Silvo Karo, Kenton Cool, Ian Parnell, Mick Fowler, Sir Chris Bonington and Sir Robin Knox-Johnston. I have been exposed to all the various types of Big Wall experiences, from fast lightweight ascents to direct lightning strikes, through to opening up whole new Big Wall playgrounds. “Jerry is one of the UK’s most experienced Big Wall climbers, and has achieved climbs of world class significance”. Chris Bonington, patron of my charity Action4Diabetics.org INTERNATIONAL EXPEDITIONS 1. 1977 BSES South East Iceland Expedition Climber 2. 1978 Brathay Exploration Group's Expedition to the Jotunheimen Climber 3. 1979 School Venture Scout Expedition to the Italian Dolomites Team Leader 4. 1980 Alberta '75 Recreation Project Deputy Co-ordinator 30 major alpine peaks climbed in Alberta Rockies Lead Climber 5. 1983 Joint Services East Nepal Expedition First Ascent: South Ridge, Manaslu North (7,154m.) Climber 6. 1984 Exercise Kulu, Indian Himalaya Lead Climber/ New routes up to 6,5000m Medical Officer Partner: Al Hinkes 7. 1985 The British Peruvian Cordilleras Expedition Numerous new routes and BBC Mick Burke film award. Leader & Climber Partner: Al Hinkes 8. 1986 Janka Raju First Ascent: NW Face, Nevado Cayesh (ED3 V1 5.9) Leader & Climber Partner: Terry Moore 9. 1987 British Shishapangma Expedition Lead Climber/Cameraman 1st Ascent SE Face Shishapangma (8013m) to Summit ridge; 1st Ascent Pungpa Ri (7,486m.) Partner: Steve Venables 10. 1989 Big Wall Biafo '89 Leader Rock spires on Biafo Glacier (6000m) Partner: Brendan Murphy 11. 1990 Troll Wall Winter '90 Leader Death to All A4, V1, 5.11 12. 1990 AK-SU - N Face Direct - Russian Pamirs Climber Partners: Mick Fowler, Crag Jones, Chris Watts 13. 1992/3 The Extremely Chile Expedition - Patagonia First ascent of N. Ridge of The Shield (ED2, VI, 5.11) Leader Partner: Andy Perkins 14. 1994 Bugaboos, Western Canada S.W. Buttress - N. Howser Tower Young Men On Fire (VI, A4, 5.11) Climber Partner: Warren Hollinger 15. 1995 The British Polar Sun Expedition First Ascent of Great Cross Pillar - Crossfire 1000m., A4+, 5.10 First Ascent of The Turret - Nuvualik 700m., A3+, 5.10 Leader Partners: Warren Hollinger and Mark Synnott 16. 1996 The British Greenland Expedition Mussel Power (800m., A3+, 5.11b) First Ascent of North Face of Nulamertorsoq Leader Partners: Silvo Karo, Tony Penning 17. 1997 Alaskan Big Walls Expedition Leader a) Zenyatta Mondata (A5), El Capitan, Yosemite b) East Face Direct Mt. Barrille, Ruth Gorge* Direct hit by avalanche at ¾ height on face Partners: Silvo Karo, Ian Parnell 18.1998 A Greenland Odyssey Climber New routes and peaks in Southern Greenland, via a 60’ yacht Climbing Partner: Sir Chris Bonington CBE Skipper: Sir Robin Knox-Johnston CBE El Capitan, Yosemite Leader The Shortest Straw (New Wave A3+) First ascent by a British team, and sixth ascent overall Partner: Ian Parnell 19.1999 The British Baffin Island Expedition 1999 Leader First ascent The Longest Day (900m. ED3 A3+,Scottish VI) Partners: Twid Turner, Louise Thomas, Shaun Hutson 20. 2000 The British Borneo Expedition 2000 Leader First ascent of The Crucible (A3+, E4 6a, 900m.) Partners: Twid Turner, Steve Long, Louise Thomas 21. 2004 The British Cerro Torre Expedition 2004 Leader SE Ridge of Cerro Torre, Patagonia (3,128m., A2, E2 5c, Scottish VI, 2000m.) Reached the shoulder twice but failed to continue due to storm conditions and weak partners! Partners: Kenton Cool and Guy Willett 22. 2006 MAD ’06 – Expedition to Tsaranoro Massif, Madagascar Climber Reequipped and climbed Gondwanaland (800m, 7c max, 7a+ oblig.), Plus numerous other routes including Out of Africa (550m., 7a), And Always The Sun (450m., 7c+ - first onsight) Partners: John and Anne Arran, Gareth Parry, Giles Cornha 23. 2008 Trango Tower (6,232m.) Karakorum, Pakistan Leader Aim: First Free ascent of Eternal Flame - 800m 35 pitches ABO Fr. 8a Reached 5,950m. but -30C conditions and gale force winds forced a retreat. Made a film "DiabetAttitude" winning various international film awards Partners: Gaz Parry, Dennis Roy, Pierre Muller, Davis Kaszlikowski, Eliza KubarskaO 24. 2009-2011 Jerry’s Insulin Challenge - Ecrins XS Challenge – First GB Ascents of: Leader - Unchi Maka (450m. ABO Fr.8a) - SW Face of Sialouze (3,575m.) - Pavé Dans La Mare (350m. ABO Fr.7b) – S Face of Pavé Peak (3,824m.) - Wakantanka (240m. ABO Fr.7c) – East Face of Sialouze (3,575m.) - Directe de Gauche (1100m. ED3 Fr.7a) – N Face of Olan (3,564m.) N.B. These routes represent the hardest alpine rock walls in the Southern French Alps. Monies raised for charity: €6,000 25. 2012 Jerry’s Insulin Challenge 2012 raising €11,000 for Nepalese diabetics: - Divine Providence (1500m. ED4, Fr. 7c), Pilier D’Angle, Mt Blanc - Le Chant Du Cygne (900m. Fr. 7b), North Face of Eiger - Tempi Moderni (1300m. Fr. 7a) in a day, South Face of Marmolada - Mitchka (800m, 7a+), Grand Pic de la Meije (3982m) - Emi Ali Leti Pauli (350m. Fr. 7b, 7a oblig. ABO), Massif Des Cerces, GB FA 26. 2013 Jerry’s Insulin Challenge 2013 raising €16,000 for diabetics in Ecuador: Wall of Paine (2,500m.), Southern Patagonia, Chile Leader First Ascent of SE Wall of South Tower of Paine (A3+, E4 6a, 1300m.) Partners: Twid Turner, Calum Muskett, Raphael Jochaud (cameraman) 27. 2014 Jerry’s Insulin Challenge 2014 raising €27,500 for A4D Leader Took team of diabetics and non-diabetics to Chamonix to attempt Mt Blanc (4,809m.) Summited Mt Blanc with two other members of the team 28. 2015 Jerry’s Insulin Challenge - Eiger North Face – 1938 Route Leader Speed ascent – 7.56hrs. Unofficial UK record with Calum Muskett on 22 April 2015. Monies raised for Action4Diabetics.org €45,000 29. 2016 Jerry’s Insulin Challenge - Cholatse SW Ridge (6,440m.) Mountain Leader Assistant guide taking 9 clients to the summit, becoming the First Type 1 Diabetic Himalayan Mountain Guide in the World! Cholatse is the the most technical commercial climb in the Nepalese Himalaya. EUROPEAN ALPINE SEASONS - SUMMER a Italian Dolomites Brenta Group 1979 b French Alps Chamonix Region 1982 c Valais Alps Zermatt Region 1983 d French Alps Chamonix Region 1986 e French Alps Chamonix Region 1987 f Swiss Alps Eiger / Oberland 1988 g Swiss Alps Eiger 1993 h Italian Alps Mt Blanc 2001 I French Alps Ecrins Alps 2003 J French Alp Ecrins Alps 2004 K French Alps Ecrins and Mt Blanc Range 2005 L French and Italian Alps Ecrins and Gran Paradiso 2006-18 WINTER UK CLIMBING/ALPINE SEASONS a Scottish Highlands Most Winters from 1977 to 1997 b Jal' gesoai vi Mountain Range, Arctic Norway 1983 c Skanland Region and Lyngen Alps, Arctic Norway 1993 d Storfjellet, Nattmalstura & Spansdalen, Arctic Norway 1985 e Arolla Region, Valais Alps, Switzerland 1986 f North Wales & Lake District 1986 g Ortler Alps 1986 / 87 h Swiss / French Alps - Eiger & Grand Capucin 1989 / 90 i Chamonix 1995-98 j Ecrins Massif Each winter since 2003 - 2018 ROCK CLIMBING Areas climbed include Yosemite Valley (5 Expeditions); Squamish Chief & Banff (Canada); Zimbabwe; Peru; Switzerland; Italy; France; Germany; Belgium; Slovenia; Norway; Sardinia, Spain and all major inland crags and sea cliffs in England, Scotland and Wales. Over 1000 routes up to E6 6b, and French 7b on sight. ALPINE ROCK WALLS Over 200 extreme alpine rock routes up to Fr.8a in France, Italy and Switzerland including the hardest itineraries in the Southern French Alps - see details above. ICE FALLS More than 300 single and multi-pitch falls including new routes in Canada, European Alps and Arctic Norway up to WI 6+ and M7. .
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