WesternText and photos by Steve Jones Scotland
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There is a point in the journey I am heading towards Oban—a former the many topside attractions in this area, to the west coast of Scotland Victorian seaside resort that has retained I headed off to the see those under the all its old-world charm. It appears quite water. just a little way north of the City at odds with the rugged beauty of the We are heading out first and foremost of Glasgow that the landscape western Scottish landscape. Oban has to the Sound of Mull—the channel of changes from “merely” pretty to become an attraction for a whole range water that lies between the Isle of Mull the full on highland spectacu- of adventure tourists. Hikers, climbers, wild- and the mainland. This place is a grave- life enthusiasts all flock here in droves year yard for wrecks and coupled with sheer lar. It seems as if you are driving round. For Oban is not only the gateway submerged cliffs, clear water and fast cur- into the wilderness. Modern life, to the Scottish Highlands, but also to the rents, it has all the ingredients for excellent along with its stresses, seems to less visited Hebridean Islands with their diving. It’s a two-hour boat journey to the become a distant memory, and deserted white sand beaches and crystal Sound, and Puffin’s large dive boat is fully clear blue waters—favourite destinations enclosed—a welcome feature given the it’s not difficult to imagine you’ve of wildlife filmmakers. The attractiveness of unpredictability of Scottish weather. travelled back hundreds of years this place is not restricted to the topside, Within an hour of leaving our base at in time; relics of this country’s however. This region has some of the fin- Oban, we see Duart castle standing like est diving in the British Isles. a sentinel guarding the waters that lie at rich history, castles and ancient Tucked away in a sheltered cove the foot of hauntingly beautiful Mull. The ruins, adorn the stunning hills and amongst the cliffs south of Oban, is Puffin view is simply awe inspiring. deep green valleys. The tranquil- Dive Centre—an ideal location to base Mull is the second largest of the inner lity of the Lochs help to define activities given the fact that it is fully self Hebridean Islands, which lie close off the sufficient—boats, gas, accommodation, coast of Scotland. At first, it can seem CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Duart castle sits majestically atop a stony outcrop; Wildlife a place that simply possesses a all conveniently located right at your quite foreboding, as the grey clouds cir- “kind of magic”. abounds in the rugged hills of western Scotland such as these wild deer grazing on the slopes; feet. Indeed, the location is also superb cle the highest peak, “Ben More”. The A view of the rocky landscape from the pier. PREVIOUS PAGE: A tall ship graces the waters of for families. Whilst mine went off to see view in the other direction is of the high- the Sound of Mull, as it glides past the austere hills of western Scotland
38 X-RAY MAG : 33 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED THIS PAGE: Scenes Scotland travel from the wreck of the Hispania
short wait and a thorough safety briefing later, and we are in. The water is a deep emerald green. Eight or nine metres into our descent down the buoy line, we see the wreck looming below us. Torches are essential in these waters if you really want to bring the colours out, and my beam soon illumi- nates the wreck in its true spectrum—bright orange. The wreck is simply cov- ered in plumose anemo- ne. This once proud ship is lying upright and intact. With a little caution, it’s safe enough to explore
The Captain Ivan Hispania Dahn chose to We are diving stay with his sink- the Hispania ing vessel and —one of the went down with most famous his command, wreck dives allegedly salut- in UK waters. ing as she sunk A Swedish beneath the steamer, waves—one of she was en the few modern route from day examples of Liverpool to a captain choos- Sweden in ing to go down 1954 when with his ship. she encoun- We are at the tered atro- mercy of the strong tides in this the open, beckoning holds. oblivious to our rude intrusion into souls. est Scottish peaks including Ben cious weather. The captain area—tides which also ensure the We glide over the railings of the their world. The best of the dive is saved Nevis. If you dive here in the win- chose the more sheltered route marine life on the wrecks is rich. ship and drop into her dark belly. Average dive depth on this for last, for the bridge of the ship, ter months, you will invariably sur- between the Scottish Islands, but Each day’s diving is planned by Fish life is plentiful, with schools wreck is around 22 metres, mak- open as it is to the tides, is burst- face to the view of snow-covered in poor visibility, the ship struck a the dive centre, so you are in the swimming in and out of the ship’s ing the use of nitrox ideal, and ing with life that would rival a peaks in the distance. reef close to the Mull shore. water when the tides are chang- superstructure whilst the venom- dry suits are really essential this tropical wreck. The decaying The crew abandoned ship but ing, and the waters are still. A ous Lions Mane Jellyfish drift by far north for all but the bravest of hull has created a catacomb
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THIS PAGE: Scenes from the wreck of the Rondo
of the wrecks are relatively deep, sit- ting on the seabed at around 30 to 35 metres. Since many are upright, how- ever, the average dive depth is more likely in the 20 to 25 metre range, mak- ing long dives possible with the use of nitrox. There is one wreck, however, that stands out from the rest for the par- ticularly adventurous dive it offers. The that allows safe exploration, always hav- The reefs here are dominated by kelp stretch of Rondo’s stern lies in three metres of ing clear exit points and no overhead forests for the first 15 metres of water, water, some water whilst its bows are in 50 metres. environments. Until recently, even the and it’s amongst these forests that much 25 miles long The whole ship lies at an angle of captain’s bath tub was still intact in his of the marine life can be found—sea and one to around 70 degrees. This is one of the quarters. urchins, squat lobster and large crabs two miles few wrecks where a true deep multi- Sixty minutes into the dive, it’s time to make the protection of the kelp forest wide, which level dive can be carried out, starting return to the surface—the cold is starting their home, whilst species of wrasse orbit separates in the deep water areas and finishing to creep through my suit, and the cur- above. the Isle from your dive around the shallow stern. The rents are beginning to flow. As abruptly as the kelp forest ends, the mainland Scotland. Many a ship sought scene for exciting drift dives; currents can bows themselves lay in dark but crystal The Hispania lies at the northwest side reef plummets away vertically into deep out this sheltered passage for refuge from exceed three knots on many of the drift clear water due to the nature of the tides of the Sound, so the boat spends the water. The sound is abound with drop- the fiercest Atlantic storms only to fall dive sites. At these speeds, it’s possible to in these waters. next few hours slowly making its way offs, as it’s over 100 metres deep in plac- prey to the many Islets and shallow reefs cover over a kilometre of ground in one The last time I dived these waters was back towards Oban. In the afternoon, es—the underwater topography match- that bespeckle this channel. dive! over 20 years ago, and it was amongst there is an opportunity to sample the ing the rugged steepness of the topsides. The appeal of this area lies not only This area is often described as having some of my first ever open water dives. natural rather than the man-made reefs in the number of wrecks, however. The one of the best collection of shipwrecks Since then, I have travelled the world in this area—a scenic dive on the shores The Sound of Mull fast currents that flow here also make in the British Isles. In addition, there is and dived a myriad of waters. So, on this of Mull itself. The Sound of Mull is formed by the deep for a rich marine biodiversity and set the diversity in the wrecks themselves. Most return visit to Oban, I was unsure of how
40 X-RAY MAG : 33 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED A diver sheds his light on Scotland travel the wreck of the Thesis RIGHT: A diver examines the coral growth on the wreck of the Shuna
as I gaze across the incred- ible scenery, that Scotland is breathtaking and mysterious both above and below the water.
Top Sites The wreck of the Hispania (position: 56.34.55N 5.59.13W) Undeniably a masterpiece amongst the Sound’s dive sites, the Hispania is often described as one of the best shipwrecks in the UK. A Swedish steamer, which sank in 1954 in bad weather, the captain chose to go down with his ship. Today, his ship lies as a beautiful shrine, absolutely covered in orange and white anemone. Virtually intact on the seabed with a slight list to starboard, the gangways and handrails are all still in place, and the cavern- ous cargo holds are an oasis for exploration.
The wreck of the Rondo one of the few wrecks where one Mull and the Lynn of Morvern. (Position: 56 32 18N: 05 54 45W) carries out a true deep multi-level The superstructure and decking One of the most thrilling dives in dive, starting midships or deeper of the ship have all but disap- the area can be found further and finishing in the shallows at peared, leaving the ribs of the my maturity and knowledge down the Sound. The Rondo the stern. The only apt description hull exposed in many places. It is would affect the experience. was lost in 1935 after breaking for this dive is spectacular. possible to swim the length of the Diving in clear tropical waters, her anchorage in a fierce storm. ship below deck level. The deep may be easier and require a lot She ran aground on the islet of The wreck of the Thesis emerald light beaming through less equipment, however diving “Dearg Sgeir”, and after a sal- (Position: 56.29.56N 005.41.28W) the many holes in the ship’s side in green waters is often more vage attempt, she slipped down Without doubt one of the most make it a truly unforgettable rewarding due to its challenges. the cliff coming to rest almost atmospheric wreck dives in the dive. I have grown to appreciate the vertically. The bows are in 50 Sound of Mull, the Thesis was a variety of temperate marine life metres of water, whilst the stern steamship that sank in 1889 car- The wreck of the Shuna and the atmospheric qualities is only a few metres from the rying a cargo of pig iron. This (Position 55.33.26N 5.54.52W) that totally absorb and surround surface! Only the hull remains, 50-metre long wreck lies on a This 73 metre long steamship sunk one. along with various debris, but the slope between 20 and 30 metres in 1913 after running aground Rejoining my family after my wreckage is rich with anemone, and must be dived at slack in a storm. She was the last last dive, for a barbeque on the and large fish schools are always water, as the tides can be fierce large wreck to be located in chalets veranda, I am reminded to be seen. The Rondo has to be whipping between the Sound of the Sound, being accidentally A diver investigates the interior of the Thesis wreck 41 X-RAY MAG : 33 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Scotland
THIS PAGE: Scenes from the wreck of the SS Breda
ous downward currents can Dives outside of the occur at certain times. Sound SS Breda Calve Island (GPS location: 56°28’32”N; One of the finest scenic dives 05°25’07”W) In addition to discovered by a commercial diver. Lochaline Pier can be found on the north- the superb array of dive sites Sitting upright in 30 to 36 metres of The waters beneath the pier at west of Calve Island, which on offer within the Sound of water, her decks are only in 16 to 20 Lochaline slope steeply before lies just outside Tobermory Bay Mull, one should not over- metres depth. The sides of the ship dropping off vertically to depths at the North entrance to the look the sites closer to Oban. are covered in thousands of brightly exceeding 70 metres. The upper Sound. Dropping away to over The SS Breda has long been coloured sea squirts and, as a rare reaches of the cliff are kelp cov- 45metres, chimneys and gullies a favourite amongst divers. treat for wreck divers, the propeller is ered, giving way to gullies and covered in life drop off verti- Requisitioned as a supply ship still attached. The holds carried coal, overhangs profuse in marine life. cally in places. The town of during World War II, she met and as she lies in a sheltered spot, It’s a stunning wall dive and can Tobermory is also worth a visit, her fate on 23 December the Shuna is covered in a layer of silt. also be dived from the shore, having one of the most colour- 1940 whilst anchored in the Careful finning will keep the normally although advice should be ful of sea fronts. Lynn of Lorn. Damaged by the good visibility intact. sought on the tides as danger- bombs dropped by a German
42 X-RAY MAG : 33 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Oban Oban is the quintessential Scotland Victorian resort town, possessing a travel unique character. Here, you will not find the pre-packaged entertainment to be found in so many more acces- sible resorts. The activities on offer put you firmly at one with the countryside, the history and the nature of the sur- rounding area. Spectacular walks, whale watching, historic castles, wild- life parks, island hopping—this is a destination for people who want to experience the countryside’s natural beauty rather than man-made enter- tainment. Or of course you could soak up the atmosphere in the Oban Inn following a visit to the world famous whisky distillery.
Diving Puffin Dive Centre (www.puf- fin.org.uk) offers a comprehensive shop, full recreational and technical training facilities, and a variety of well- equipped dive boats, ranging from large offshore rigid-hulled inflatable boats to a jet-powered catamaran. These make light work of the journey to the Sound of Mull. Puffin caters to groups and individuals of all levels of experience and provides thorough seabed that slopes from 24 to briefings covering the wrecks and all 30 metres. Standing upright, safety aspects before each dive. the superstructures have largely disappeared following the work Conditions Despite the foul weather of salvage divers in the 1960’s. that can occur in this region, there are However, her cavernous cargo very few days in the year when div- holds are full of interesting arti- ing is completely impossible. There are facts, and the stern of this 127- many dive sites, so finding a sheltered metre long behemoth is covered CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Diver explores the wreck of the Hispania; Thous- one merely requires some flexibility. in dead mens fingers and anem- ands of tunicates decorate the wreck of the Shuna; The SS Breda wreck The region is therefore one of a few in ones. Good buoyancy control is the British Isles where year-round diving a requirement. The wreck catch- the Gaelic word for noisy!) are Puffin Dive Centre, offers a series is possible. With water temperatures es the silt deposits from Loch caused by many millions of litres of build-ups to this dive, taking peaking at around 15°C between July Etive, so normally good visibility of water rushing between Loch divers in for familiarity dives at and September, they will drop to a can quickly deteriorate if divers Etive and the Firth of Lorn through lower current strengths before refreshing 4°C by winter. This is drysuit are not careful. Because of this, a narrow constriction under the the real thing. Excellent boat territory, all year round, if you want to great care must be taken when bridge at Connel, about six miles cover is essential. ■ make the most of it. venturing into the holds. north of Oban. Nicknamed the “washing machine”, only the Special thanks to Puffin Dive Useful Links The Falls of Lora most experienced drift divers Centre www.puffin.org.uk for Puffin Dive Centre www.puffin.org.uk Loch Etive itself also holds one of should attempt this dive when it their support in producing this Oban Tourist Board www.oban.org.uk the most challenging and excit- is flowing. Currents can exceed article. More of Steve Jones’s Isle of Mull www.isle.of.mull.com Heinkel 111 bomber, she limped of the shallowest intact wrecks in ing drift dives for the advanced six knots, and downward currents work can be seen at www.mil- Visit Scottish Heartlands into Ardmucknish Bay before Scottish Waters, with her decks diver. The Falls of Lora (“Lora” are common. The most estab- lionfish.com www.visitscottishheartlands.com/ finally sinking. She remains one standing eight metres above a being a rough translation of lished dive centre in the region, areas/oban/index.cfm
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