The Sound of Mull & Oban WesternText and photos by Steve Jones Scotland 37 X-RAY MAG : 33 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Scotland There is a point in the journey I am heading towards Oban—a former the many topside attractions in this area, to the west coast of Scotland Victorian seaside resort that has retained I headed off to the see those under the all its old-world charm. It appears quite water. just a little way north of the City at odds with the rugged beauty of the We are heading out first and foremost of Glasgow that the landscape western Scottish landscape. Oban has to the Sound of Mull—the channel of changes from “merely” pretty to become an attraction for a whole range water that lies between the Isle of Mull the full on highland spectacu- of adventure tourists. Hikers, climbers, wild- and the mainland. This place is a grave- life enthusiasts all flock here in droves year yard for wrecks and coupled with sheer lar. It seems as if you are driving round. For Oban is not only the gateway submerged cliffs, clear water and fast cur- into the wilderness. Modern life, to the Scottish Highlands, but also to the rents, it has all the ingredients for excellent along with its stresses, seems to less visited Hebridean Islands with their diving. It’s a two-hour boat journey to the become a distant memory, and deserted white sand beaches and crystal Sound, and Puffin’s large dive boat is fully clear blue waters—favourite destinations enclosed—a welcome feature given the it’s not difficult to imagine you’ve of wildlife filmmakers. The attractiveness of unpredictability of Scottish weather. travelled back hundreds of years this place is not restricted to the topside, Within an hour of leaving our base at in time; relics of this country’s however. This region has some of the fin- Oban, we see Duart castle standing like est diving in the British Isles. a sentinel guarding the waters that lie at rich history, castles and ancient Tucked away in a sheltered cove the foot of hauntingly beautiful Mull. The ruins, adorn the stunning hills and amongst the cliffs south of Oban, is Puffin view is simply awe inspiring. deep green valleys. The tranquil- Dive Centre—an ideal location to base Mull is the second largest of the inner lity of the Lochs help to define activities given the fact that it is fully self Hebridean Islands, which lie close off the sufficient—boats, gas, accommodation, coast of Scotland. At first, it can seem CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Duart castle sits majestically atop a stony outcrop; Wildlife a place that simply possesses a all conveniently located right at your quite foreboding, as the grey clouds cir- “kind of magic”. abounds in the rugged hills of western Scotland such as these wild deer grazing on the slopes; feet. Indeed, the location is also superb cle the highest peak, “Ben More”. The A view of the rocky landscape from the pier. PREVIOUS PAGE: A tall ship graces the waters of for families. Whilst mine went off to see view in the other direction is of the high- the Sound of Mull, as it glides past the austere hills of western Scotland 38 X-RAY MAG : 33 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED THIS PAGE: Scenes Scotland travel from the wreck of the Hispania short wait and a thorough safety briefing later, and we are in. The water is a deep emerald green. Eight or nine metres into our descent down the buoy line, we see the wreck looming below us. Torches are essential in these waters if you really want to bring the colours out, and my beam soon illumi- nates the wreck in its true spectrum—bright orange. The wreck is simply cov- ered in plumose anemo- ne. This once proud ship is lying upright and intact. With a little caution, it’s safe enough to explore The Captain Ivan Hispania Dahn chose to We are diving stay with his sink- the Hispania ing vessel and —one of the went down with most famous his command, wreck dives allegedly salut- in UK waters. ing as she sunk A Swedish beneath the steamer, waves—one of she was en the few modern route from day examples of Liverpool to a captain choos- Sweden in ing to go down 1954 when with his ship. she encoun- We are at the tered atro- mercy of the strong tides in this the open, beckoning holds. oblivious to our rude intrusion into souls. est Scottish peaks including Ben cious weather. The captain area—tides which also ensure the We glide over the railings of the their world. The best of the dive is saved Nevis. If you dive here in the win- chose the more sheltered route marine life on the wrecks is rich. ship and drop into her dark belly. Average dive depth on this for last, for the bridge of the ship, ter months, you will invariably sur- between the Scottish Islands, but Each day’s diving is planned by Fish life is plentiful, with schools wreck is around 22 metres, mak- open as it is to the tides, is burst- face to the view of snow-covered in poor visibility, the ship struck a the dive centre, so you are in the swimming in and out of the ship’s ing the use of nitrox ideal, and ing with life that would rival a peaks in the distance. reef close to the Mull shore. water when the tides are chang- superstructure whilst the venom- dry suits are really essential this tropical wreck. The decaying The crew abandoned ship but ing, and the waters are still. A ous Lions Mane Jellyfish drift by far north for all but the bravest of hull has created a catacomb 39 X-RAY MAG : 33 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Scotland THIS PAGE: Scenes from the wreck of the Rondo of the wrecks are relatively deep, sit- ting on the seabed at around 30 to 35 metres. Since many are upright, how- ever, the average dive depth is more likely in the 20 to 25 metre range, mak- ing long dives possible with the use of nitrox. There is one wreck, however, that stands out from the rest for the par- ticularly adventurous dive it offers. The that allows safe exploration, always hav- The reefs here are dominated by kelp stretch of Rondo’s stern lies in three metres of ing clear exit points and no overhead forests for the first 15 metres of water, water, some water whilst its bows are in 50 metres. environments. Until recently, even the and it’s amongst these forests that much 25 miles long The whole ship lies at an angle of captain’s bath tub was still intact in his of the marine life can be found—sea and one to around 70 degrees. This is one of the quarters. urchins, squat lobster and large crabs two miles few wrecks where a true deep multi- Sixty minutes into the dive, it’s time to make the protection of the kelp forest wide, which level dive can be carried out, starting return to the surface—the cold is starting their home, whilst species of wrasse orbit separates in the deep water areas and finishing to creep through my suit, and the cur- above. the Isle from your dive around the shallow stern. The rents are beginning to flow. As abruptly as the kelp forest ends, the mainland Scotland. Many a ship sought scene for exciting drift dives; currents can bows themselves lay in dark but crystal The Hispania lies at the northwest side reef plummets away vertically into deep out this sheltered passage for refuge from exceed three knots on many of the drift clear water due to the nature of the tides of the Sound, so the boat spends the water. The sound is abound with drop- the fiercest Atlantic storms only to fall dive sites. At these speeds, it’s possible to in these waters. next few hours slowly making its way offs, as it’s over 100 metres deep in plac- prey to the many Islets and shallow reefs cover over a kilometre of ground in one The last time I dived these waters was back towards Oban. In the afternoon, es—the underwater topography match- that bespeckle this channel. dive! over 20 years ago, and it was amongst there is an opportunity to sample the ing the rugged steepness of the topsides. The appeal of this area lies not only This area is often described as having some of my first ever open water dives. natural rather than the man-made reefs in the number of wrecks, however. The one of the best collection of shipwrecks Since then, I have travelled the world in this area—a scenic dive on the shores The Sound of Mull fast currents that flow here also make in the British Isles. In addition, there is and dived a myriad of waters. So, on this of Mull itself. The Sound of Mull is formed by the deep for a rich marine biodiversity and set the diversity in the wrecks themselves. Most return visit to Oban, I was unsure of how 40 X-RAY MAG : 33 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED A diver sheds his light on Scotland travel the wreck of the Thesis RIGHT: A diver examines the coral growth on the wreck of the Shuna as I gaze across the incred- ible scenery, that Scotland is breathtaking and mysterious both above and below the water.