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FACTORS TO CONSIDER WHEN PERFORMING HAIR SERVICES by Paul Phillips

Overview In this unit you will learn the three areas you need to consider when discussing and choosing a hairstyle with your client.

Skill Level Foundation

Technical Skills Technical Skills: Contra-Indications - Culture - Influencing Factors - Lifestyle - Limiting Factors - Physical Features - Trends

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1. As part of your job you will need to discuss and 2. Are there any nape whirls or cowlicks? recommend hairstyles and ideas with your client. 3. Look at the head shape: 2. This is called a consultation. • The placement and size of the occipital • The slope between the crown and the 3. To give your client the choice of the best ideas you • Is the crown flat or round? need to assess 3 areas: Head, face and body shape as well as hair and facial 4. Look at the shape where the sides join the back: features • This can be square, round, narrow, wide Contra-indications Lifestyle, culture and trend 5. Look at the shape between the temples: • Is it broad or narrow? These things are called influencing factors. 6. • Look at the height of the top of the head 4. An influencing factor is anything that will influence your • Look at the width of the profile choice. For example, a large nose or round face will • Graduation would improve a flat crown area affect what type of style you agree on. Some hairstyles will not suit certain face shapes or features. A flat, 7. Look at the face shape: elongated shape would not really suit someone with a • Oval, square, round or oblong long face. • An oval face shape tends to suit any style • You would avoid a round graduated shape on a Part One: Physical Features round face

1. Head, face and body shape and features of the face 8. Look at the body shape: and hair • Short, tall, slim, large • You would not choose a wide style for a short, Consider density, texture, depth, condition and length large person of the hair • If someone were tall and lanky you would avoid a long flat shape Density is the number of hairs in an area of the head. Some people have many hairs and some people have 9. Look at the facial features: very few. • Ears, nose, eyes shape and placement, chin and Texture is the quality of the individual strands. This • A very short, high fringe would probably not suit could be fine, medium thick, coarse and curly. a face with a long large nose

It is important to understand the difference between 10. Choose a style that will enhance or highlight the best these two factors. A person could have a lot of hair features and will detract or not draw attention to the with many strands, but the strands could be very thin. less attractive features. A person could have many strands and the strands could be thick. These two hair types would appear very Part Two: Contra-indications and limiting factors different. 1. A contra-indication is something that could prevent or Consider growth patterns and irregularities and check limit a service. the hairline: • Is the hairline thin?

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2. Something that could limit a service might be hair 4. Different ethnicities enjoy different techniques and styles quality. It would be unwise to bleach or pre-lighten very and these often cross over as people adopt different damaged hair. Instead you might recommend a semi cultural styles. permanent or temporary colour. 5. Many clients enjoy following trends and are open to 3. Examine your client’s and hair and look for the suggestion of change whether extreme or subtle. adverse ,scalp and hair conditions such as: Keep up to date with developing trends and learn the techniques to support new ideas and styles. • Poor hair porosity • Head lice 6. There are many ways to keep up with trend by: • A dry flaky scalp • Observation, or people watching • Open wounds • Magazines • Cuts • Internet websites and blogs • Hair loss • Fashion events • Growth patterns - extreme patterns in the front • Trade events hairline might limit the style of fringe, as it may not lay flat 7. A colours service will need you to consider: • The natural hair colour 4. If you have a difficult hairline in the back you might need • The desired finish look weight to control it so a very short nape would not be • Skin tone recommended. • Previous services • Existing colour Part 3: Lifestyle, Culture and Trend • The client’s history

1. Lifestyle is very important to consider and can include 8. These things are learnt through experience, practice jobs, leisure activities, time, budget and trend: and observation. Each person is an individual. As you • A busy professional might need a low become more professional you will learn how to tailor a maintenance style look for the individual. • Someone who swims several times a week might avoid too many chemical processes Master the basics, learn from every experience and ask • Some one who works outside might not be questions. suited to a blow dried, flat-ironed style • Some people like adaptable styles, so they have a professional style which they can change to suit their leisure time

2. Some people need to keep their hair in a certain way due to cultural preferences such as: • Covering the hair • Cutting the hair the hair short or shaving the hair • Never cutting the hair • Braiding

3. There are many cultural celebrations that require hair services. Be aware of not only your own culture but also those of others.

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