Overseas SM Adventure Travel Since 1978
Machu Picchu & the Galápagos 2017
EXTEND YOUR TRIP
The Amazon Rain Forest of Peru
Bolivia: La Paz & Lake Titicaca
Ecuador: The Andes & the Devil’s Nose Train
Colombia: Villa de Leyva & Bogota
Your Travel Handbook CONTENTS
Travel Documents & Entry Requirements . . . 3 Climate ...... 27
Your Passport ...... 3 Visa Required ...... 3 About Your Destinations ...... 31 Trusted Traveler Programs ...... 4 . . . . . 31 Emergency Photocopies of Key Documents . . . . 4 OAT Trip Leaders: A World of Difference ...... 31 Overseas Taxes & Fees ...... 5 Culture & Points to Know Travel in South America ...... 32 Shopping ...... 33 Health ...... 6 U .S . Customs Regulations & Shipping Charges ...... 34 Is This Adventure Right for You? ...... 6 Steps to Take Before Your Trip ...... 7 Yellow Fever Vaccination—Documentation Demographics & History ...... 36 Required for Bolivia ...... 8 Staying Healthy on Your Trip ...... 10 Resources ...... 48
Money Matters ...... 12 Suggested Readings ...... 48 ...... 51 Top Three Tips ...... 12 Suggested Movies ...... 53 Local Currency ...... 12 Useful Websites How to Exchange Money ...... 13 ATMs ...... 13 Credit & Debit Cards ...... 14 Tipping Guidelines ...... 15
Preparing for Your Trip ...... 16
Land Only Travelers ...... 16 Optional Tours ...... 16 Communications ...... 17
Packing ...... 19
Your Luggage ...... 20 Clothing Suggestions ...... 21 What to Bring ...... 22 Electricity ...... 24
2 MPG2017 07/13/2017 TRAVEL DOCUMENTS & ENTRY REQUIREMENTS
Your Passport • Must be in good condition
• Must be valid for at least 6 months after your scheduled return to the U.S.
• Must have the required number of blank pages (details below)
• The blank pages must be labeled “Visas” at the top. Pages labeled “Amendments and Endorsements” are not acceptable
Need to Renew Your Passport? Contact the National Passport Information Center (NPIC) at 1-877-487-2778, or visit their website at www.travel.state.gov for information on obtaining a new passport or renewing your existing passport. You may also contact our recommended visa service company, PVS International, at 1-800-556-9990 for help with your passport
Recommended Blank Pages Please confirm that your passport has enough blank pages for this vacation.
• Main trip only: If you are taking only the main trip, you will require 3 blank passport pages.
• Pre-trip extension to Amazon of Peru: No additional pages are needed for this extension.
• Pre-trip extension to Bolivia: You will need 1 more page, for a total of 4.
• Post-trip extension in Colombia: You will need 1 more page, for a total of 4.
• Post-trip extension in Ecuador: No additional pages are needed for this extension.
Visa Required We’ll be sending you a detailed Visa Packet with instructions, application forms, and fees about 100 days prior to your departure. In the meantime, we’re providing the information below as a guideline on what to expect. This info is for U.S. citizens only. All visas and fees are subject to change.
• Ecuador and Peru (main trip and optional extension)—no visas needed. U.S. citizens do not need visas for stays of less than 90 days in Ecuador or Peru
• Bolivia (optional extension)—visa required. We recommended you get your visa before your departure. Travelers taking the optional pre-trip extension to La Paz and Lake Titicaca will need a visa for Bolivia. Bolivia will also require vaccination documentation; see the Health chapter for details.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 3 • Colombia (optional extension)—no visas needed. U.S. citizens do not need visas for stays of less than 90 days in Colombia.
Traveling Without a U.S. Passport? If you are not a U.S. citizen, or if your passport is from any country other than the U.S., it is your responsibility to check with your local consulate, embassy, or a visa services company about visa requirements. We recommend the services of PVS International, a national visa service located in Washington D.C.; they can be reached at 1-800-556-9990 or www. pvsinternational.org.
Trusted Traveler Programs Some travelers have found that Trusted Traveler programs can expedite long waits at customs when re entering the U.S. There are currently three programs available: Global Entry, NEXUS, and SENTRI. These three programs also include TSA Pre-Check, which allows you to use a dedicated security line at participating airports, or you can apply solely for TSA Pre-Check.
TIP: Keep in mind that not all airports and airlines participate in these programs. You may want to consider checking with your airport prior to applying to find out if these programs would benefit you.
To apply for a Trusted Traveler program or TSA Pre-Check, typically you will be asked to pay an application fee (varies by program) and schedule a background check and/or an interview. If you are approved, you will be issued a Known Traveler Number (KTN). Your KTN is valid for a set number of years, based on the conditions of the program. Please see the U.S. Customs and Border Protection website for more details on each of these programs: www.cbp.gov/ travel/trusted-traveler-programs. You can also find more information about TSA Pre-Check at www.tsa.gov/precheck.
If you are enrolled in TSA Pre-Check (or a Trusted Traveler program that includes it), you must provide your KTN to the airlines.
Emergency Photocopies of Key Documents We recommend you carry color photocopies of key documents including the photo page of your passport plus any applicable visas, air itinerary, credit cards (front and back), and an alternative form of ID. Add emergency phone numbers like your credit card company and the number for your travel protection plan. Store copies separate from the originals.
If you plan to email this information to yourself, please keep in mind that email is not always secure; consider using password protection or encryption. Also email is not always available worldwide. As an alternative, you could load these documents onto a flash drive instead, which can do double-duty as a place to backup photos during your trip.
4 MPG2017 07/13/2017 Overseas Taxes & Fees This tour may have taxes and fees that cannot be included in your airline ticket price because you are required to pay them in person onsite. All taxes are subject to change without notice and can be paid in cash (either U.S. or local currency). If applicable, you will receive a list of these fees with your Final Documents.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 5 HEALTH
Is This Adventure Right for You? Please review the information below prior to departing on this adventure. We reserve the right for our Trip Leaders to modify participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their condition would adversely affect the health, safety, or enjoyment of themselves or of other travelers.
PACING • 6 locations in 16 days (8 days in Peru and 8 days in Ecuador) with three 1-night stays
• 2 internal flights in Peru and 2 internal flights in Ecuador
• 2 pre-dawn departures; some early mornings
• In the Galápagos, some departures feature a 3-night cruise and 1-night hotel, while others feature a 4-night cruise
• Airport transfers in Lima and Quito can take up to 1.5 hours
PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS • Not appropriate for travelers using wheelchairs, walkers, or other mobility aids
• You must be able to walk 3 miles unassisted and participate in 6-8 hours of physical activities each day
• This trip takes you to remote places with no medical facilities nearby
• We reserve the right for Trip Leaders to restrict participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their limitations impact the group’s experience
ALTITUDE • 9 full days at altitudes between 7,000-11,000 feet
• We strongly recommend that you discuss precautions for altitude sickness with a healthcare professional before you travel on this trip. Proper preparation, including any medication recommended by your healthcare professional, is essential to traveling comfortably at these elevations.
CLIMATE • Daytime temperatures in Cuzco, Machu Picchu, and Quito range from 50-75°F; these cities have a mountain climate with a large drop in day to night temperature
• Rain is possible at any time in Machu Picchu
6 MPG2017 07/13/2017 • Daytime temperatures in the Galápagos range from 65°F-90°F; there is no shade during walks on the islands
• Water temperature in the Galápagos ranges from 70°F-74°F in the dry season (May to November), and from 73°F-78°F in the warm season (December to May)
TERRAIN & TRANSPORTATION • Travel on unpaved roads; walking on rough, steep, slippery trails that do not have handrails; climbing many high stone steps; wet landings via motorized Zodiac rafts; snorkeling excursions; and encounters with rough seas while cruising
• Agility and balance are required for embarking and disembarking small motor dinghies
• Travel by 20-passenger coach, train, 16-passenger small ship, and rubber inflatable Zodiacs
• 4-6 hour drives, 2 1.5-hour rail journeys, 4 internal flights of 1.5-3 hours each, and 1 international flight from Lima to Quitos of about 2.5 hours on Day 9
• Internal flight to/from Galápagos has a stop-over in Guayaquil airport; travel time can take up to 8 hours
FLIGHT INFORMATION • Travel time will be 6-14 hours and will most likely have two connections
ACCOMMODATIONS & FACILITIES • Hotel rooms are smaller than in the U.S. and offer simple amenities
• All accommodations feature private baths
• Travel onboard a small ship with simple hotel amenities
Steps to Take Before Your Trip Before you leave on this adventure, we recommend the following:
• Check with the CDC for their recommendations for the countries you’ll be visiting. You can contact them online at http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel or by phone at 1-800-232-4636.
• Have a medical checkup with your doctor at least 6 weeks before your trip.
• Pick up any necessary medications, both prescription and over-the-counter.
• Have a dental and/or eye checkup. (Recommended, but less urgent)
07/13/2017 MPG2017 7 Yellow Fever Vaccination—Documentation Required for Bolivia The yellow fever requirements vary depending on if you are taking the pre-trip extension to Bolivia. Travelers who are going to Bolivia must bring EITHER proof of a yellow fever vaccination OR an official vaccination waiver (doctor’s letter). Travelers who are not taking the extension to Bolivia are also encouraged to bring one of these two documents, but it is a suggestion rather than a requirement.
While the CDC offers a wide range of vaccination and medication suggestions, there is one in particular that we’d like to draw your attention to—the yellow fever vaccine. For some countries, the yellow fever vaccination is a legal entry requirement, like a passport. For other countries, it is a health recommendation to protect you from getting sick. Please refer to the bulleted information below for country-specific requirements pertaining to the yellow fever vaccination.
• The CDC does not recommend the yellow fever vaccination for any of the areas we travel to on the main trip.
• During the optional Amazon pre-trip extension and Colombia post-trip extension, the CDC does recommend the vaccination for the Amazon basin area, if your health allows. This is not a legal requirement, but a health recommendation.
• Travelers who are taking the pre-trip extension to Bolivia must bring EITHER proof of a yellow fever vaccination OR an official vaccination waiver (doctor’s letter).
In any case, you should discuss the vaccine with your doctor to see if he or she recommends it and if your health allows for it. (He or she can offer a suggestion tailored to your personal medical history.) If you and your doctor decide the vaccination is right for you, then he or she will issue you a Yellow Fever Card (officially called an International Certificate of Vaccination). This is your proof of vaccination; you should bring it with you on the trip.
If you and your doctor decide the vaccination isn’t right for you, then have your doctor issue an official vaccination waiver. An official waiver is a letter that meets these requirements:
• It must be on business letterhead paper or on the Yellow Fever Card itself. (Some versions of the card have a space for this purpose.)
• It must be signed by a doctor.
• It must be stamped using the same stamp that the doctor uses on a Yellow Fever Card.
• It must state the reason for the waiver. (For example: “patient has compromised immune system” or “patient is at high risk for severe side effects”.)
Bring your documentation—either your Yellow Fever Card or your waiver—with you on the trip. Remember, you may not be asked to show anything at all when you enter Bolivia (it depends on the local official). Our regional office reports that many Bolivian officials have been asking, regardless of where travelers arrive from. Plus, some airlines have begun to ask
8 MPG2017 07/13/2017 to see this document before you board the plane to Bolivia. If you are asked, you must be able to produce your documentation or you could be refused entry into Bolivia. If that happens, you will be forced to turn back at your own expense.
TIP: We recommend that if you have received the vaccination, you have your Yellow Fever Card with you when traveling. If you cannot receive the vaccination for medical reasons, we suggest you bring with you a letter from your medical provider stating so. If any of the countries on this itinerary makes a last-minute change to its entry policy before you leave, having one of these documents with you could make all the difference.
NOTE: The CDC website implies that if you travel to Peru first and then Ecuador you will need proof of yellow fever vaccination for Ecuador. But according to the Ecuadorian embassy, Peru is not considered a high-risk country, so it is not required.
Medication Suggestions • An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness
• Prescription pain medication in the unlikely event of an injury in a remote location
• Altitude sickness medication. Quito is at an altitude of over 9,000 feet, Cuzco at roughly 11,000 feet, and Bogotá (on the post-trip extension) is just over 8,500 feet. La Paz—which we visit on the extension to Bolivia—is the world’s highest-elevation capital at over 11,000 feet above sea level. At these altitudes, almost everyone feels some of the symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). These symptoms include headache, nausea, loss of appetite, trouble with sleep, and lack of energy.
• Motion sickness medication if you are prone to motion or seasickness as the waters in the Galapagos can be choppy.
• For travelers on the Amazon pre-trip extension: At time of writing, the CDC did recommend discussing anti-malaria medication with your doctor for the Amazon basin. These medications can have strong side effects, so be certain to ask your doctor first.
Traveling with Medications • Pack medications in your carry-on bag to avoid loss and to have them handy.
• Keep medicines in their original, labeled containers for a quicker security screen at the airport and a better experience if you get stopped by customs while overseas.
• Bring copies of your prescriptions, written using the generic drug name rather than a brand name to be prepared for any unforeseen loss of your medications.
We recommend checking this site for medication restrictions by country:http://travel.state. gov/content/passports/english/go/customs.html. (Follow the links to “Local Laws & Special Circumstances” for each country; if you don’t see any medications specifically mentioned, then you can presume major U.S. brands should be OK).
07/13/2017 MPG2017 9 TIP: At time of writing, the State Department did not have any special warnings about American over- the-counter medications for altitude sickness, but did warn that although coca-leaf tea is a popular beverage and folk remedy for altitude sickness in the Andes Mountains, possession of these tea bags is illegal in the United States.
IMPORTANT TIP: At time of writing, the State Department did not have any special warnings about American over-the-counter medications for Peru, but did have the following warning about bringing medicines back to the U.S.: “Travelers should be aware that some drugs and other products readily available over the counter or by prescription in Peru are illegal in the United States. The prescription sedative flunitrazepam (Rohypnol) is one such drug; others may come on the market at any time. Although coca-leaf tea is a popular beverage and folk remedy for altitude sickness in Peru, possession of these tea bags, which are sold in most Peruvian supermarkets, is illegal in the United States.”
Staying Healthy on Your Trip
Jet Lag Tips • Start your trip well-rested.
• Begin a gradual transition to your new time zone before you leave or switch to your destination time zone when you get on the plane.
• Attempt to sleep and eat according to the new schedule.
• Avoid heavy eating and drinking caffeine or alcoholic beverages right before–and during– your flight.
• Drink plenty of water and/or fruit juice while flying
• Stretch your legs, neck, and back periodically while seated on the plane.
• After arrival, avoid the temptation to nap.
• Don’t push yourself to see a lot on your first day.
• Try to stay awake your first day until after dinner.
Allergies If you have any serious allergies or dietary restrictions, we advise you to notify us at least 30 days prior to your departure. Please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814, and we will communicate them to our regional office. Every effort will be made to accommodate you.
Water • Tap water is not safe to drink.
• Bottled water or treated drinking water is readily available. Inspect each bottle before you buy it to make sure the cap is sealed properly. Carry a bottle in your daypack at all times.
10 MPG2017 07/13/2017 • Bottled drinks and juices, and hot drinks that have been boiled, are safe to drink.
• Avoid drinks with ice in them.
• Carry a handkerchief to dry the tops of bottled drinks before and after opening.
Food • We’ve carefully chosen the restaurants for your group meals.
• Be very careful with food sold from vendors on the street, and with uncooked fruit and other foods.
• Fruit that you peel yourself is usually safe—avoid lettuce and other unpeeled produce.
Altitude Illness Quito is at an altitude of over 9,000 feet, Cuzco at roughly 11,000 feet, and Bogotá (on the post-trip extension) is just over 8,500 feet. La Paz—which we visit on the extension to Bolivia—is the world’s highest-elevation capital at over 11,000 feet above sea level. You will probably feel some effects of altitude when you first arrive. Even if you’ve been to high elevations previously, you could have a different reaction this time. For most people, the symptoms are mild and will pass in a day or so.
The most common symptoms of altitude sickness are lightheadedness, shortness of breath, headache, nausea, sleeplessness, and loss of appetite. You should take it easy, avoid smoking and alcohol, and drink plenty of fluids. Some people take altitude sickness medication, starting when they arrive or one day before. Don’t take sleeping medications, as they suppress respiration. Even though you may experience a decreased appetite, force yourself to eat soups and other light foods.
If these normal altitude symptoms become unmanageable, it is critical that you inform your Trip Leader. Please let the leader know if you experience any of the following: serious difficulty breathing, mental confusion, a severe and unremitting headache, continued difficulty breathing after a period of rest, or poor physical coordination (ataxia).
Water Conditions in the Galápagos Two different ocean currents impact the waters off the coast of the Galápagos—the Humboldt Current and the Panama Current. Generally speaking, when the colder Humboldt Current is dominant (July to November) the water is cooler and choppier; when the Panama Current is dominant (December to June) the water is warmer and calmer. The roughest seas usually occur from July through October, but choppy conditions can happen at any time of year. We recommend packing an anti-seasickness medicine whether or not you are prone to seasickness.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 11 MONEY MATTERS
Top Three Tips • Carry a mix of different types of payments, such as local currency, an ATM card, and a credit card
• Traveler’s checks are not recommended as they can be difficult to exchange and are rarely accepted in shops and restaurants.
• U.S. dollars are accepted in Ecuador and many places in Peru; bring a variety of denominations in good condition.
Local Currency For current exchange rates, please refer to an online converter tool like www.xe.com/ currencyconverter, your bank, or the financial section of your newspaper.
Bolivia The official currency of Bolivia is the boliviano, which can be divided into 100 subunits called centavos. Banknotes and coin denominations are as follows:
• Banknotes come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, and 200 bolivianos
• Coins come in denominations of 1, 2, and 5 bolivianos and 10, 20, and 50 centavos
U.S. dollars are accepted almost everywhere in Bolivia; however, using the boliviano is still recommended at some stores as they will be not be able to exchange large dollar bills.
Colombia The currency of Colombia is the Colombian peso. Banknote and coin denominations are as follows:
• Banknotes: 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000 and 50,000 pesos
• Coins: 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, and 1,000 pesos
U.S. dollars are not widely accepted in Colombia. You may find some street vendors or people in tourist-related industries willing to accept dollars, but generally the local currency is preferred. Our Trip Leaders suggest changing about $100 per person into Colombian currency at the airport when you first arrive.
12 MPG2017 07/13/2017 Ecuador Ecuador uses U.S. dollars as its official currency, although Ecuadorian coins of equal value to U.S. coins are still minted and still circulate. A mix of small bills is best—costs are low and exact change is appreciated.
Peru The official currency of Peru is the Nuevo Sol or New Sol (S/), which is divided into 100 centimos. Banknote and coin denominations are as follows:
• Banknotes: 10, 20, 50, 100, and 200
• Coins: 5, 10, 20, 50 céntimos and 1, 2, 5 soles
U.S. dollars are commonly accepted in Peru, especially for large transactions or at businesses that cater to visitors. However, not every business will want U.S. dollars, and the ones that do accept them will want crisp bills in very good condition—bills that are worn, torn, or even folded might be rejected. Large U.S. bills (such as $50 or $100) command a better exchange rate, but small bills are more readily accepted for payment. For this reason, we recommend that you bring a mix of denominations in U.S. dollars. Previous travelers have recommended bringing a lot of $1 bills for tipping (but not for exchanging). When paying in sols, know that it can be difficult for a shop to make change for a 100-sol bill on small purchases.
How to Exchange Money In Peru, you’ll sometimes pay in dollars and sometimes in local currency. Large U.S. bills (such as $50 or $100) command a better exchange rate, but small bills are more readily accepted for payment. Therefore we recommend that you bring a mix of denominations in U.S. dollars for this adventure—small bills for paying, plus a few large bills for exchanging. There is no need to obtain local currency before your trip. In fact, your U.S. bank may not carry it. You can change money when you arrive at the airport, or at banks, most hotels, and money exchange offices. Torn, dirty, or taped U.S. bills may not be accepted for exchange or payment.
The official currency of Ecuador is the U.S. dollar so there is no need to exchange money.
ATMs When using the ATM, keep in mind that it may only accept cards from local banks, and may not allow cash advances on credit cards; you might need to try more than one ATM or more than one card.
Many banks charge a fee of $1-$5 each time you use a foreign ATM. Others may charge you a percentage of the amount you withdraw. We recommend that you check with your bank before you depart.
Lastly, don’t forget to memorize the actual digits of your card’s PIN number (many keypads at foreign ATMs do not include letters on their keys—they only display numbers.)
07/13/2017 MPG2017 13 Bolivia: ATMs are usually only available in larger cities, like La Paz and Sucre. For rural and remote areas, plan to carry enough cash for your expected expenses, plus a small reserve, and then use your credit card as backup.
Colombia: Typically ATMs are widely available in the larger cities like Bogotá, but may be hard to find in smaller towns or rural villages. Our Trip Leaders suggest changing about $100 per person into Colombian currency at the airport when you first arrive. They have found that some of the ATMs at the airport and near the first hotel don’t work with U.S. cards.
Ecuador: ATMs are available in larger cities, such as Quito, but become harder to find in remote locations. For example, the Galapagos Islands have only a few ATMs and waiting in line can take too long (up to an hour in some cases). We recommend that you bring enough cash to cover your expenses for your travel in more remote areas.
Peru: ATMs are available in large cities and towns like Lima and Cuzco but are less likely to be found in more rural locations. For example, in the Amazon you may only see an ATM at the regional airport. We suggest that you bring cash for expected expenses while traveling in the rural areas.
Credit & Debit Cards Even if you don’t plan on using a credit card during your trip, we still suggest that you bring one or two as a backup, especially if you are planning a large purchase (artwork, jewelry). We also suggest that you bring more than one brand of card (i.e. Visa, MasterCard, American Express) if possible, because not every shop will take every card. For example, although the Discover card is accepted in some countries outside the U.S., it is not widely adopted, so other brands will work at a much larger range of stores, restaurants, etc.
Bolivia: Payment by credit card is limited to hotels and shops that caters to tourists; other than these exceptions, it is not common practice. Shops and businesses in Bolivia may charge you a small percentage of the purchase price as a fee for using your card.
Colombia: Credit and debits cards are widely accepted in Colombia, though you may still run into some smaller shops and restaurants that will not accept them.
Ecuador: Credit and debit cards are more likely to be accepted in large cities like Quito. Even inside a large city like Quito, cards of any kind are more commonly accepted in the modern shops of the New Town district than in the “hole in the wall” places in the Old Town.
Peru: Credit cards are more likely to be accepted large cities like Lima than in the countryside. Stores in Peru may charge you up to 8% for the use of a credit card.
Notify Card Providers Many credit card companies and banks have fraud alert departments that will freeze your card if they see suspicious charges—such as charges or withdrawals from another country. To avoid an accidental security block, it is a good idea to notify your credit card company and/or bank
14 MPG2017 07/13/2017 you will be using your cards abroad. You can do this by calling their customer service number a week or two before your departure. Some banks or credit card companies will also let you do this online.
You should also double-check what phone number you could call if you have a problem with a card while you are abroad. Don’t assume you can use the 1-800 number printed on the back of your card—most 1 800 numbers don’t work outside of the U.S.!
Tipping Guidelines Of course, whether you tip, and how much, is always at your own discretion. Listed below are our recommendations for the tips that are not included in your tour price:
OAT Trip Leader: It is customary to express a personal “thank you” to your OAT Trip Leader at the end of your trip, especially if he or she has provided you with individual service. As a guideline, many travelers give $7-$10 per person per day.
Hotel housekeepers: $1-$2 per room, per day
Waiters: Your Trip Leader will tip waiters for included meals. If you are dinning on your own, bear in mind that it is common for restaurants in this region to add a service charge (usually of about 10%). If so, there is no need to tip but it is customary to add more if the service was good.
Taxi drivers: If you are taking a taxi by yourself, keep in mind that tipping is not common practice, but many people simply let the driver keep the change by rounding up the fare to the next whole number.
Please Note: Your tour price includes gratuities on the main trip and optional extensions for local guides, drivers, ship crew, and luggage porters that may assist you during the scheduled activities on your adventure. All tips are quoted in U.S. dollars; tips can be converted and paid in local currency or in U.S. dollars. Please do not use personal or traveler’s checks for tips.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 15 PREPARING FOR YOUR TRIP
Land Only Travelers If you plan on booking your own international flights or arranging with our air department to arrive/depart on an earlier/later date than standard for your program, airport transfers will NOT be included in your program price, unless otherwise noted. For eligible flights, transfers may be purchased separately, as an optional add-on, and are subject to availability. To be eligible, your flight(s) must meet the following requirements:
• You must fly into or fly home from the same airport as OAT travelers who purchased included airfare.
• Your flight(s) must arrive/depart on the same day that the group arrives or departs.
To learn more, or purchase airport transfers, please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814.
When booking your international flights, please also note that the main trip will end on Day 16 (Day 21 of the Ecuador post-trip) for your overnight flight back to the United States.
Optional Tours Optional tours are additional add-on tours that allow you to personalize your adventure by tailoring it to your tastes and needs. And if you decide not to join an optional tour? Then you’ll have free time to relax or explore on your own—it’s about options, not obligations.
What You Need to Know • All optional tours are subject to change and availability.
• Optional tours that are reserved with your Trip Leader can be paid for using credit/debit cards only. We accept MasterCard and Visa credit cards; we can also take MasterCard or Visa debit cards as long as the card allows you to sign for purchases. (You won’t be able to enter a PIN.)
• To ensure that you are charged in U.S. dollars, your payment will be processed by our U.S. headquarters in Boston. This process can take up to three months, so we ask that you only use a card that will still be valid three months after your trip is over. The charge may appear on your credit card statement as being from Boston, MA or may be labeled as “OPT Boston”.
• Your Trip Leader will give you details on the optional tours while you’re on the trip. But if you’d like to look over descriptions of them earlier, you can do so at any time by referring to your Day-to-Day Itinerary (available online by signing into My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount).
16 MPG2017 07/13/2017 Communications
Cell Phones If you want to use your cell phone on the trip, check with your phone provider to see if your phone and service will work outside of the U.S. It may turn out to be cheaper to rent an international phone or buy a SIM card onsite. If you want to use a local SIM, just make certain your phone can accept one.
Calling Apps Another option is to use a smartphone app like Skype or FaceTime. These services are usually less expensive than making a traditional call, but you’ll need a Wi-Fi connection and the calls may count towards your phone plan’s data allowance. Many smartphones—and some tablets or laptops—come with one of these apps pre-installed or you can download them for free from the appropriate apps store.
Calling Cards and 1-800 Numbers When calling the U.S. from a foreign country, a prepaid calling card can be useful because it circumvents unexpected charges from the hotel. Calling cards purchased locally are typically the best (less expensive, more likely to work with the local phones, etc.). Our Trip Leaders advise that for Ecuador an even less expensive and easier-to-use optional is available. Instead of using a calling card, they suggest using the international phone service at a type of business known as a “Café Net or Internet”; these businesses can be found in cities all over Ecuador.
One reminder: Do not call U.S. 1-800 numbers outside the continental United States. This can result in costly long distance fees, since 1-800 numbers do not work outside the country.
Internet Many hotels in Peru and Ecuador offer Internet service, but what is on offer can vary, as can the price. Some hotels will have WiFi for you to use on your own device; others will have their own computer that guests can use. In the hotels that do have WiFi, the service may be limited to a common area, like the lobby or reception; occasionally it is in the rooms. Very broadly speaking, WiFi is more common on this adventure in Peru than Ecuador, and is more common in public areas than in the rooms. In Colombia, Internet access will be mostly limited to computers in the hotel lobby or business center; most hotels do not offer WiFi in the rooms, and the ones that do charge for the service.
However, even in the hotels that do offer WiFi, the connections can be unpredictable—so you may be better off leaving your device at home and relying on the hotels with a computer in the lobby or a business center. If you follow this plan, you should be able to check in on email at least two or three times during your adventure. Two places where Internet access is rare are at Machu Picchu and on board the small ship during the Galapagos cruise.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 17 How to Call Overseas When calling overseas from the U.S., dial 011 for international exchange, then the country code (indicated by a plus sign: +), and then the number. Note that foreign phone numbers may not have the same number of digits as U.S. numbers; even within a country the number of digits can vary depending on the city and if the phone is a land line or cell phone.
Bolivia: +591 Ecuador: +593
Colombia: +57 Peru: +51
18 MPG2017 07/13/2017 PACKING
Luggage Limits
MAIN TRIP LIMITS
Pieces per person One checked bag and one carry-on per person .
Weight restrictions Up to 50 lbs for checked luggage and 15 lbs for carry-ons.
Size Restrictions Standard airline size: Checked luggage should not exceed 62 linear inches (length+width+depth) and carry-on should not exceed 45 linear inches .
Luggage Type Duffel bag or soft-sided suitcase . Please do not bring a hard-sided (clam shell) suitcase .
TRIP EXTENSION(S) LIMITS
Same as main trip .
REMARKS/SUGGESTIONS
Luggage rules: Luggage rules and limits are set by governmental and airline policy . Enforcement of the rules may include spot checks or may be inconsistent . However one thing is the same across the board: If you are found to have oversized or overweight luggage, you will be subject to additional fees, to be assessed by—and paid to—the airline in question .
Reminder to bring a small additional bag: This small bag is a necessity for certain portions of your adventure . You will need it for the train trip to and from Machu Picchu and will want it for our four nights in the Galapagos . Some previous travelers have suggested re-purposing your carry-on for this use; others have packed an empty bag into their suitcase . A waterproof bag is preferable, as is a bag that locks For. more details, see the “Your Luggage” section .
Don’t Forget: • These luggage limits may change. If the airline(s) notify us of any changes, we will include an update in your Final Documents booklet.
• It’s a good idea to reconfirm baggage restrictions and fees directly with the airline a week or so prior to departure. For your convenience, we maintain a list of the toll-free numbers for the most common airlines on our website in the FAQ section.
• Baggage fees are not included in your trip price; they are payable directly to the airlines.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 19 • The luggage limits above are based on your regional flights, which may be less than your international flights. Even if your international airline offers a larger weight limit, you will need to pack according to the lower restrictions.
Your Luggage
Checked luggage One duffel bag or suitcase. Look for one with heavy nylon fabric, wrap-around handles, built- in wheels, and a heavy-duty lockable zipper. Please do not bring a rigid (plastic shell) suitcase.
TIP: When traveling with a companion we recommend “cross-packing,” i.e., pack 2 outfits of your clothing in your companion’s luggage and vice-versa, in case one bag is delayed.
Carry-on bag You are allowed one carry-on bag per person. We suggest a tote or small backpack that can be used as both a carry-on bag for your flight and to carry your daily necessities—water bottle, camera, etc—during driving excursions and walking trips. Consider a backpack or waistpack that keeps both hands free and distributes the pack’s weight onto your back or hips.
A small additional bag: This small bag is a necessity for certain portions of your adventure.
• You will need it for the train trip to and from Machu Picchu because there is no space for your suitcase on the train. (You’ll leave your suitcase or large duffle bag at the hotel in the Sacred Valley, travel to Machu Picchu, stay overnight, and then return to the Sacred Valley the next day.)
• You’ll also want the bag for four nights in the Galapagos because space on the ship is limited and there is typically not enough room for your checked luggage. You’ll be able to leave your suitcase or large duffel bag at the hotel in Quito to be picked up after you return. This will let you pare down and bring only what is necessary to the Galapagos.
TIP: Some previous travelers have suggested re-purposing your carry-on for this use; others have packed an empty bag into their suitcase. A waterproof bag is preferable, as is a bag that locks.
Locks For flights that originate in the U.S., you can either use a TSA-approved lock or leave your luggage unlocked. Outside of the U.S. we strongly recommend locking your luggage as a theft-prevention measure.
20 MPG2017 07/13/2017 Clothing Suggestions
Functional Tips As you will experience a wide range of temperatures and weather conditions, our list suggests several layers of clothing. Most of your clothing can be made of cotton or cotton-synthetic blends. If you like to hand-wash your clothes, look for fabrics that will dry out overnight. You can buy clothing designed especially for travel, with features like wrinkle-resistant fabric or built-in sun protection.
• Rain gear: You’ll want fairly good-quality rain gear for Quito (on the main trip) and for your Amazon jungle visit (if you take the optional Amazon Rain Forest of Peru extension).
• Footwear: You’ll be on your feet a lot during the trip, and walking over some rough and slippery surfaces. The soles of your shoes should offer good traction. For the wet landings during your Galapagos cruise, a pair of sport sandals may be useful to give you good footing. In the Galapagos, the shoes you wear for the water landings or to walk on the paths will be rinsed by crew members before boarding the ship to avoid cross- contamination of the islands’ ecosystems. We recommend bringing sandals or flip flops to use on board (or go barefoot).
• Camouflage colors: If you are taking the optional Amazon Rain Forest of Peru pre-trip extension, we recommend bringing earth-colored clothing (shades of greens, browns, and grays). These colors will camouflage your presence in the jungle and afford you a better opportunity to spot wildlife.
• Snorkel gear: Should you buy snorkel gear for this adventure? Probably not. The Galapagos ship has basic gear like masks and fins for rent. In addition you may be able to rent a wetsuit onboard, depending on availability. Snorkel gear is also available for purchase or rent on Santa Cruz Island. So unless you are an enthusiast who already owns your own gear, we suggest you save space in your luggage. Of course, if you already own gear and really prefer it, you are welcome to bring it. For example, if you already own a wetsuit jacket or swim vest, that might be useful for lengthy swims or for the months of July-November, when the water off the coast of the Galapagos is cooler.
• Walking sticks: Many past travelers have recommended bringing a folding walking stick or folding ski pole. (On the Amazon Rain Forest of Peru pre-trip extension, our Amazon lodge supplies walking sticks for guests to use in the rainforest, but you may want one when exploring other sites.) In Machu Picchu, walking sticks are technically not permitted. However, our Trip Leaders are often able to negotiate with park employees to allow walking sticks with rubber tips (as they cause less damage to the ground of the ancient sites). Therefore, we suggest you bring this type of walking stick. If you do not bring a walking stick, you may be able to purchase one onsite. For the Galapagos, you are not allowed to bring your walking stick in your carry-on bag, so make sure to leave room for it in your checked luggage.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 21 • One-time laundry service: About halfway through the trip you will have the option to have your laundry done at the hotel in Quito for a fee. (Your Trip Leader will arrange this. Or if you prefer to use a local laundromat, your Trip Leader can advise you of the closest one.)
Style Hints Dress on our trip is functional and casual. Women might want to bring one casual dress and a pair of dressier sandals.
What to Bring We have included suggestions from Trip Leaders and former travelers to help you pack. These lists are only jumping-off points—they offer recommendations based on experience, but not requirements. You may also want to consult the “Climate” chapter of this handbook.
Recommended Clothing Checklist ❑❑Shirts: A mixture of short and long-sleeved shirts in a breathable fabric (consider quick-drying fabric for the Amazon extension)
❑❑Trousers and/or jeans: Comfortable and loose fitting is best. ❑❑Walking shorts ❑❑Shoes and socks: Hard-bottom hiking boots or trekking shoes are recommended. (These should offer better support and traction than sneakers, but sneakers are also an option.) For the wet landings during your Galapagos cruise, a pair of sport sandals may be useful to give you good footing. For socks, consider bringing a couple heavy pairs for hiking and a couple pairs that can get wet for the Galapagos.
❑❑Second pair of shoes: During the cruise in the Galapagos, the shoes you wear on the islands will be rinsed by crew members before boarding the ship to avoid cross- contamination of the islands’ ecosystems. Therefore you may find it useful to bring a second pair of shoes to wear on the ship while the other pair is drying (or go barefoot).
❑❑Light wool or fleece sweater and/or a Polartec fleece jacket ❑❑Light rain jacket/windbreaker with hood or poncho. ❑❑Wide-brim sun hat or visor for sun protection ❑❑Underwear ❑❑Sleepwear
22 MPG2017 07/13/2017 ❑❑Swimsuit for activities and snorkeling in the Galapagos (our regional office recommends bringing two suits so that you have one to wear while the first is drying)
❑❑Optional: Dress-casual outfit for dining out in larger cities
Essential Items ❑❑Daily essentials: toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, hairbrush or comb, shaving items, deodorant, etc. Our hotels will provide the basics like soap and shampoo but usually not washcloths.
❑❑Spare eyeglasses/contact lenses; sunglasses ❑❑Sunscreen: SPF 15 or stronger ❑❑Insect repellent with DEET (30%-35% strength) ❑❑Water bottle or canteen (particularly for the Galapagos due to environmental policies) ❑❑Light folding umbrella ❑❑Moisturizer and sun-blocking lip balm ❑❑Pocket-size tissues ❑❑Moist towelettes and/or anti-bacterial “water-free” hand cleanser ❑❑Flashlight, extra batteries/bulb (in some places on this adventure electricity is limited) ❑❑A small, lockable duffel bag (with a luggage tag and a lock) for the train to Machu Picchu and nights aboard the ship. See luggage section for details.
❑❑Electrical transformer & plug adapters ❑❑Camera gear with extra batteries or battery charger ❑❑Ziploc bags to protect camera from humidity
Medicines & First Aid Gear ❑❑Your own prescription medicines ❑❑Travel first aid kit: Band-Aids, headache and pain relief, laxatives and anti-diarrhea tablets, something for upset stomach. Maybe a cold remedy, moleskin foot pads, antibiotic cream, or allergy medication.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 23 ❑❑An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness ❑❑Motion sickness medication ❑❑Optional: A strong prescription pain medication for rare emergency purposes ❑❑Optional: Altitude sickness medication ❑❑Optional for travelers on the pre-trip extension to the Amazon: Anti-malarial medication—discuss with your doctor first
Optional Gear ❑❑Travel alarm or travel watch with alarm ❑❑Lightweight binoculars (essential if birding) ❑❑Folding walking stick (see Functional Tips) ❑❑Hanging toiletry bag (with hook to hang on doorknob and pockets to organize items) ❑❑Basic sewing kit ❑❑Hand-wash laundry soap ❑❑Hair dryer ❑❑Travel journal/note pad and pens ❑❑Reading materials ❑❑Small gift for Home-Hosted visit ❑❑Phrase book ❑❑Inflatable seat cushion for bumpy roads ❑❑Disposable underwater camera ❑❑Snorkel gear (see Functional Tips for details)
Electricity When traveling overseas, the voltage is usually different and the plugs might not be the same shape.
24 MPG2017 07/13/2017 Voltage Electricity in Peru and Bolivia is 220 volts. In Ecuador and Colombia, it is 110 volts (same as the U.S.). Most of the things a traveler will want to plug in—battery chargers, MP3 players, tablets or computers—can run off both 110 and 220. But you should check the item or the owner’s guide first to confirm this before you plug it in. If you have something that needs 110 volts—like a shaver or a hairdryer—you can bring a transformer to change the current. (But transformers tend to burn out, so it might be better to leave whatever it is at home.) Aboard the Galapagos ship, you’ll find the electric supply to be the same as in the U.S., so you will not need an electric-current converter for the ship.
Plugs The shape of plugs will vary from country to country, and sometimes even within a country depending on when that building was built. To plug something from the U.S. into a local socket you’ll need an adapter that fits between the plug and the socket. It may be easier to purchase an all-in-one, universal adapter/converter combo. Versatile and lightweight, these can usually be found at your local electronics goods or hardware stores. Sometimes you can buy them at large retailers too, like Target or Walmart. If you forget to bring an adapter, you might also find them for sale at the airport when you arrive at your destination.
Different plug shapes are named by letters of the alphabet. Standard U.S. plugs are Type A and Type B. Here is the list of plugs for the countries on this trip:
Bolivia: A, B, and C
Colombia: A and B
Ecuador: A and B
07/13/2017 MPG2017 25 Peru: A, B, or C
Type A Type B Type C
Availability A constant electricity supply cannot be guaranteed during overnight stays. In some places— like our jungle lodge—a generator may supply electricity for a limited period of time each day (for example, from 6pm-10pm), and lighting may not be as bright as you are used to. Travelers dependent on electricity supply (as in the case of those with sleep apnea) should consider a different adventure or ensure their apparatus has back-up battery power.
26 MPG2017 07/13/2017 CLIMATE
Cuzco, Peru: Cuzco’s high altitude, approximately 10,909 feet above sea level, results in a somewhat large range of daily temperatures. Considered a moderate climate, it is typically sunny and pleasant during the day but with evening temperatures that can be refreshingly chilly. During the winter months of June through August, nights can even bring frost at these heights. Interestingly, average daytime temperatures do not fluctuate greatly over the entire year, with the high thermometer readings staying in the 60s throughout all seasons. The summer months of December through March bring most of the rains, while May through September offer usually sunny, comfortably cool days with only occasional sudden showers.
Lima, Peru: Lima is situated in one of the world’s great deserts, and has a dry desert climate. The city has virtually no rainy days, with the very small annual precipitation coming in the form of the sea mist and occasional drizzle of the winter season, June to September. Only during the summer months of January through March is it warm and humid on the coast, with temperatures the rest of the year falling in the 60s and 70s.
Quito and the Highlands, Ecuador: Quito, located in the Ecuadorian Andes, has a climate that is often described as one of “perpetual spring,” with warm days and chilly nights and little variation of temperature around the year. Much of the rainfall in this mountainous region comes in the afternoon and evening as clouds build up over the mountains and thunderstorms develop.
The Galapagos, Ecuador: In the Galapagos Islands, temperatures are comfortably mild throughout the year. From December through June, high temperatures are in the mid-to- upper 80s. This is considered the rainy season, even though there are more hours of sunshine than rain during these months. (In the desert climate of the Galapagos the amount of rainfall is miniscule compared to the Amazon rainforest.) From July through November, high temperatures are in the upper 70s to low 80s. This cool dry season along the equator has its positive side. The temperature during the day is usually in the 70s with low humidity and quite comfortable, making the nature hikes you take even more pleasant.
Water conditions in the Galapagos: Two different ocean currents impact the waters off the coast of the Galapagos—the Humboldt Current and the Panama Current. Generally speaking, when the colder Humboldt Current is dominant (July to November) the water is cooler and choppier; when the Panama Current is dominant (December to June) the water is warmer and calmer. The roughest seas are usually from July through October, but choppy conditions can occur at any time of year. If you are prone to seasickness, you may want to pack an anti- seasickness medicine.
TIP: For those travelers who are looking forward to swimming or snorkeling in the Galapagos, please be prepared for water temperatures in the high 60s/low 70s and choppy conditions. For details on the availability of snorkel gear, please see “Functional Tips” under “Clothing Suggestions”, or review the packing checklists.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 27 Bogotá, Colombia: Bogotá’s setting in a high plateau in the Andes means that hail is just as likely as a sun. The average yearly temperature is 57 degrees F, with highs rarely going above 85 degrees, and lows sometimes dipping to below freezing. The highest high temperatures are usually in March or April, while the lowest lows are usually in January. December through March, July, and August are the driest months. Rainfall is more common April through June and October to November. Morning humidity can be quite high, but generally the afternoon is better. Overall, Bogotá’s weather can be unpredictable and subject to sudden changes.
La Paz, Bolivia: Bolivia’s altitude keeps its climate fairly temperate, with temperatures in La Paz (the world’s highest capital at 11,910 feet above sea level) seldom rising above the 50s. Evenings tend to be quite cold. Most days are bright and sunny here, but from November to March, Bolivia’s summer months, rain showers are common in the afternoon.
Climate Charts & Online Forecast The following charts reflect the average climate as opposed to exact weather conditions. This means they serve only as general indicators of what can reasonably be expected. An extreme heat wave or cold snap could fall outside these ranges. As your departure approaches, we encourage you to go online to www.oattravel.com/myaccount for your 10-day forecast.
Average Daily High/Low Temperatures (°F), Humidity & Monthly Rainfall
MONTH CUZCO, PERU LIMA, PERU
Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 64 to 45 79 to 53 5 .9 79 to 68 89 to 70 -- FEB 64 to 46 80 to 53 5 .9 80 to 69 91 to 69 -- MAR 64 to 46 80 to 51 3 .8 80 to 69 91 to 70 -- APR 66 to 43 80 to 48 1 .5 76 to 66 92 to 72 -- MAY 67 to 39 81 to 42 0 .3 72 to 63 92 to 75 -- JUN 66 to 35 82 to 40 0 .1 69 to 61 89 to 76 0 .1 JUL 66 to 34 81 to 38 0 .1 67 to 60 89 to 76 0 .2 AUG 66 to 37 79 to 39 0 .3 66 to 60 90 to 77 0 .1 SEP 67 to 41 77 to 43 0 .9 67 to 59 90 to 76 0 .1 OCT 68 to 44 74 to 44 1 .9 69 to 61 89 to 74 0 .1 NOV 67 to 45 74 to 47 2 .7 72 to 63 87 to 72 -- DEC 66 to 45 76 to 49 4 .3 76 to 66 88 to 70 --
28 MPG2017 07/13/2017 MONTH QUITO, ECUADOR THE GALAPAGOS, ECUADOR
Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (avg) (inches) JAN 66 to 50 88 to 59 4 .5 87 to 70 71 3 .2 FEB 66 to 50 87 to 61 5 .1 87 to 71 76 4 .1 MAR 66 to 50 88 to 63 6 .0 87 to 70 84 3 .9 APR 66 to 51 89 to 67 6 .9 87 to 70 77 2 .4 MAY 66 to 51 88 to 64 4 .9 87 to 69 66 4 .7 JUN 67 to 49 80 to 55 1 .9 85 to 67 60 2 .1 JUL 67 to 49 75 to 50 0 .8 80 to 66 42 0 .8 AUG 67 to 49 73 to 49 1 .0 84 to 65 38 0 .5 SEP 68 to 49 79 to 56 3 .1 81 to 66 44 0 .8 OCT 67 to 49 85 to 64 5 .0 84 to 66 57 1 .1 NOV 67 to 49 86 to 63 4 .3 85 to 67 61 1 .4 DEC 66 to 50 87 to 62 4 .1 86 to 69 65 0 .9
MONTH IQUITOS, PERU BOGOTA, COLOMBIA
Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 88 to 73 96 to 73 10 .5 66 to 43 95 to 67 1 .9 FEB 87 to 73 96 to 73 10 66 to 45 94 to 68 2 .0 MAR 87 to 73 96 to 73 11 .8 67 to 47 93 to 70 3 .2 APR 87 to 73 96 to 75 11 .9 66 to 48 93 to 73 4 .7 MAY 86 to 73 96 to 75 10 .5 65 to 48 92 to 72 4 .0 JUN 85 to 72 96 to 76 8 .2 64 to 48 91 to 69 2 .4 JUL 85 to 71 96 to 73 6 .4 64 to 47 90 to 66 1 .8 AUG 87 to 72 96 to 72 6 .5 64 to 46 91 to 65 1 .9 SEP 88 to 72 96 to 72 7 .5 65 to 46 92 to 68 2 .3 OCT 88 to 72 95 to 73 9 .1 65 to 47 92 to 74 5 .6 NOV 88 to 73 95 to 74 9 .8 65 to 47 93 to 76 4 .5 DEC 88 to 73 95 to 75 10 .2 66 to 45 94 to 73 2 .7
07/13/2017 MPG2017 29 MONTH CUENCA, ECUADOR LA PAZ, BOLIVIA
Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (avg) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 69 to 50 75 2 .0 55 to 39 92 to 63 5 .1 FEB 70 to 51 76 1 .8 56 to 39 92 to 60 4 .1 MAR 69 to 51 76 3 .2 56 to 38 92 to 58 2 .8 APR 69 to 50 77 4 .3 57 to 36 89 to 50 1 .4 MAY 67 to 49 77 4 .3 57 to 32 76 to 35 0 .5 JUN 66 to 47 75 1 .7 55 to 28 72 to 32 0 .2 JUL 65 to 47 73 0 .9 55 to 27 71 to 30 0 .3 AUG 66 to 46 75 1 .1 56 to 29 76 to 33 0 .6 SEP 69 to 48 74 1 .6 57 to 32 81 to 38 1 .2 OCT 70 to 49 76 3 .1 58 to 36 84 to 43 1 .6 NOV 71 to 46 74 1 .8 59 to 38 86 to 45 2 .0 DEC 71 to 49 74 2 .5 58 to 38 89 to 53 3 .7
MONTH LAKE TITICACA
Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 55 to 39 92 to 63 5 .1 FEB 56 to 39 92 to 60 4 .1 MAR 56 to 38 92 to 58 2 .8 APR 57 to 36 89 to 50 1 .4 MAY 57 to 32 76 to 35 0 .5 JUN 55 to 28 72 to 32 0 .2 JUL 55 to 27 71 to 30 0 .3 AUG 56 to 29 76 to 33 0 .6 SEP 57 to 32 81 to 38 1 .2 OCT 58 to 36 84 to 43 1 .6 NOV 59 to 38 86 to 45 2 .0 DEC 58 to 38 89 to 53 3 .7
30 MPG2017 07/13/2017 ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS
OAT Trip Leaders: A World of Difference During your adventure you’ll be accompanied by one of our local, expert Trip Leaders. All are fluent in English and possess the skills, certification, and experience necessary to ensure an enriching adventure. As locals of the regions you’ll explore with them, our Trip Leaders provide the kind of firsthand knowledge and insight that make local history, culture, and wildlife come alive. Coupled with their unbridled enthusiasm, caring personalities, and ability to bring diverse groups of travelers together, our Trip Leaders ensure that your experience with OAT is one you’ll remember for a lifetime.
Culture & Points to Know
Hotels & Land Only Travelers If you have made your own international air arrangements, please note that on this adventure the first included hotel is on the night of Day 1 of your main trip (or Day 1 of your pre-trip extension, if you are taking one). Check in times will vary, but tend to be after 2pm.
For your return flight to the U.S., please note most flight schedules for South American airlines will depart from Quito very late in the evening (near midnight) on Day 16 of the main trip, and arrive in the U.S. early the following morning.
Expectations in Colombia Colombia has long been a closed destination for Americans, and is slowly opening for American tourism. The most important things for you to pack are your sense of adventure, an open mind, and an understanding that service and standards will not be what you are used to. While the people are friendly and the country’s beauty is vast, there will be some things that surprise you. There are few people in Colombia who speak English, including at hotels and restaurants. (Come prepared to practice your Spanish.) Many hotels were once private homes, so the rooms many be smaller, darker, or noisier than you expect. In some areas, hotels will have fans but not air-conditioning.
The locals will love to help you, but service is not up to American standards. The staff will be friendly, but, again, will most likely not speak English and may be slower than expected. Be prepared for a leisurely meal, and allow extra time if you have a specific request. Patience with this developing country is important. Our advice is: When in Colombia, do as Colombians do.
Cuisine in Peru Ceviche is a local specialty (uncooked fish marinated in lemon juice and hot pepper, served with corn-on-the-cob, sweet potatoes, and onions). All varieties of seafood are excellent here. Among the popular liquors is pisco (which takes its name from a town south of Lima), a
07/13/2017 MPG2017 31 powerful liquor distilled from grapes and most often seen in the pisco sour Cocktail. This spirit is a favorite and is considered the national drink. It can also be found at some supermarkets or grocery stores.
Photography in Machu Picchu The use of professional cameras in Machu Picchu requires special permission by Peru’s Ministry of Culture, so you will not be able to use a professional-grade camera or camcorder during our visit there. Your average camera - point-and-shoot or DSLR - is not considered professional-grade. However, lenses over 200 mm, tripods, and monopods are not allowed in Machu Picchu.
Travel in South America Part of the adventure of this trip is the possibility that things may change. Local influences may make it impossible for us to follow the planned itinerary exactly and the sequence of sites visited may change. Rest assured that we have considerable experience at responding to changing circumstances on the spot. Our goal is always to offer you the best travel experience and the most memorable explorations of this intriguing land.
Complex, multi-layered cultural traditions and stunning natural geography make South America a fascinating destination. To get the most enjoyment out of your trip, remember that many South American countries are still considered developing nations, and be aware that you may be approached to buy crafts or solicited by children to take photographs.
In restaurants, hotels, and at cultural sites, everything works according to a slower sense of time than what you are used to. It’s best to wind down and adjust to the local pace and philosophy.
Language Barrier You can have some great “conversations” with local people who do not speak English, even if you don’t speak a word of the local language. Indeed, this non-verbal communication can be a highly rewarding part of travel. To break the ice, bring along some family photographs, or a few postcards of your hometown.
Your attire is a key part of your non-verbal presentation. Your clothing should show a respect for local tradition. In South America, this means you should dress in a relatively modest style.
Taking Photographs The etiquette of photographing most people in the countries on your itinerary is about the same as it would be on the streets of your hometown. You need permission to take a close-up, but not for a crowd scene. Be especially polite if you want to photograph an older woman. If you want to shoot a great portrait, show interest in your subject, try to have a bit of social interaction first. Then use sign language to inquire if a picture is OK.
32 MPG2017 07/13/2017 Safety & Security Common Sense and Awareness
As you travel, exercise the same caution and awareness that you would in a large American city. Don’t be overly nervous or suspicious, but keep your eyes open. If you are venturing out after dark, go with one or two other people, and always by taxi.
Pickpockets
Like any other big city or tourist destination, pickpockets will sometimes target travelers. Fortunately, there are a few easy steps you can take to minimize your exposure. The first step is to avoid attracting attention. Don’t wear fancy jewelry or expensive watches in the street (or even cheaper items that look expensive).
The next step is to limit what you have on you. Instead of carrying all your money, all your credit cards, and your passport in your pocket or purse, stick to what you’ll need for that day—a one-day supply of money and one or two cards. (You won’t need your passport, so our regional office recommends that you leave it at the hotel.) Replenish your pocket supply when you are in a safe and quiet place, at the hotel, or in our vehicle. Don’t leave valuables out and unattended in your hotel room. Every hotel will offer use of a hotel safe at the front desk or an electronic in-room safe; please use them.
TIP: Our regional office recommends that you leave your passport in the room safe or hotel safe, and that you carry a photocopy instead when you are out and about.
Lastly, know that pickpockets may create a sudden distraction. In any sort of puzzling street situation, try to keep one hand on your valuables. If an encounter with a local turns out to be long and complicated and involves money or your valuables, it might be a scam.
Regional Flights in South America In South America, it is simply a fact of life that schedules for internal flights often change on short notice. When this happens, our air travel experts strive to get you on new flights as close to the original schedule as possible, but limited availability of seats may require us to use early-morning flights or change the day of the flight. If schedule changes make it necessary, we may have to rise before dawn on some days where early-morning wake-ups are not mentioned in your printed itinerary.
Shopping There may be scheduled visits to local shops during your adventure. There is no requirement to make a purchase during these stops, and any purchase made is a direct transaction with the shop in question, subject to the vendor’s terms of purchase. OAT is not responsible for purchases you make on your trip or for the shipment of your purchases.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 33 Returns If you discover an issue with an item, you should contact the vendor directly and expect that any resolution will take longer than it would in the U.S. We recommend that you keep a copy of all your receipts, invoices, or contracts, along with the shop’s contact information. Keep in mind, local practice may vary from U.S. standards, so don’t assume that you have a certain number of days after the purchase to speak up or that you are guaranteed a refund.
Crafts & Souvenirs
Bolivia Bolivian handicrafts tend towards Andean-style weavings, pottery, and jewelry. Traditional games—often carved from wood—or woven baskets make nice handmade souvenirs. Also look for items made from alpaca wool.
Colombia In Bogotá, be on the lookout for high quality ceramics, or you can find many local crafts in Ráquira. Also be on the lookout for gold jewelry. Colombia is especially known for first-grade precious stones; it is said to have perfect emeralds.
Ecuador Traditional souvenirs include jewelry and sculptures created from Tagua vegetable ivory (using the nut of the Tagua palm tree), ceramics, Tigua paintings, Panama hats, and items with images of Galapagos animals.
Peru Traditional souvenirs available in Lima and Cuzco include gold and silver jewelry, old and new weavings, ceramics, woolen clothing, hand-knitted alpaca sweaters, woven ponchos, rugs, coats, and blankets. A much more limited selection is available in Iquitos.
U.S. Customs Regulations & Shipping Charges For all things related to U.S. Customs, the ultimate authority is the U.S. Bureau of Customs & Border Protection. Their website, www.cbp.gov has the answers to the most frequently asked questions. Or you can call them at 1-877-227-5511.
The top three points to know are:
• At time of writing, your personal duty-free allowance is $800 for items brought with you. Items totaling more than $800 are subject to duty fees.
• Items shipped home are always subject to duty when received in the U.S. Even when the shop has offered to include shipping and duties in the price, this typically means shipping to the nearest customs facility and payment of the export duties—not door-to- door shipping or payment of the import duties. All additional duties or shipping charges
34 MPG2017 07/13/2017 would be your responsibility. Unless an item is small enough to send by parcel service (like FedEx), chances are you will need to arrange shipping or pick-up once the item is in the U.S. and will need to pay customs duties.
• It is illegal to import products made from endangered animal species. U.S. Customs & Border Protection will seize these items, as well as most furs, coral, tortoise shell, reptile skins, feathers, plants, and items made from animal skins.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 35 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY
Bolivia
Facts & Figures • Area: 424,164 square miles
• Capital: Sucre
• Languages: Spanish and Quechua are the official languages; Aymara is also spoken
• Location: In central South America, bordered by Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Paraguay, and Peru.
• Geography: Despite that it is a landlocked nation, Bolivia is home to an incredible diversity of ecological zones. The rugged Andes in the west surround an arid highland plateau, or altiplano. In the north lie the tropical lowland plains and rainforests that stretch into the Brazilian Amazon. Bolivia’s capital, La Paz, is the highest capital city in the world at 11,910 feet above sea level. The city rests in a geological bowl-like formation, with many of its streets climbing to great heights. Bolivia shares Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world at 12,507 feet, with Peru.
• Population: 10,800,882 (2015 Estimate)
• Religions: Roman Catholic 76.8%, Evangelical and Pentecostal 8.1%, Protestant 7.9%, other 1.7%, none 5.5%
• Time zone: Bolivia is 1 hour ahead of Eastern Time. When it is noon in New York, it is 1:00pm in Bolivia.
National Holidays: Bolivia
In addition to the holidays listed below, 05/01 Labor Day/May Day Bolivia celebrates a number of national 06/21 Aymara New Year Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter and Corpus Christi. To find out if 06/22 Aymara New Year Day holiday you will be traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/ 08/06 Independence Day holidays. 11/02 All Saints Day 01/01 New Year’s Day 12/25 Christmas Day 01/22 Plurinational State Foundation Day
Historical Overview of Bolivia Here Come the Aymara
36 MPG2017 07/13/2017 As part of the Andean region, Bolivia shares much of its earliest history with other countries in the region, such as Peru. For example, the earliest settlers of Bolivia were most likely members of the Aymara tribe who migrated from Peru. Beginning in roughly 1200 BC, the Aymara founded a series of small villages, such Tiwanaku, in present-day western Bolivia. For the next thousand years, the villages thrived, partly through farming the rich Lake Titicaca Basin, and partly by trading with other Andean tribes.
By the 1st century AD, the village of Tiwanaku (or “Tiahuanaco”) had expanded into the center of an advanced civilization with an extensive system of roads, canals, and cultivated fields. The remaining architecture and goods from this time demonstrate a stable and prosperous society, but one that seems to have been dominant in the immediate region only. Due to the lack of a written record the exact dates remain unknown, but it appears that only 300 years later—close to 400 AD—the Aymara in Tiwanaku turned outwards and began to actively expand by taking over nearby lands and absorbing other tribes. Eventually, their domain spread from Bolivia into southern Peru and northern Chile.
Remains of monumental architecture, large sculptures, and artistic brownware pottery from this time show that the Tiwanaku Empire was an influential and wealthy society. Satellite imaging and archeological finds show that their power was largely based on an innovative farming system that relied on artificially created fields, called suka kollus (“flood-raised fields”). The suka kollus were, in essence, miniature ecosystems of earthen mounds built between canals stocked with fish. The canals irrigated the mounds, part of the crop was used to feed the fish, and the waste from the fish was then re-used as fertilizer on the mounds. The system worked well for hundreds, even thousands, of years. But then some event—possibly a severe drought—in about 1000 AD caused the suka kollus system to collapse. And with it went the Tiwanaku Empire.
Here Come the Incas
After the fall of the Aymara’s Tiwanaku Empire, historians speculate that Bolivia broke up into as many as seven smaller Aymara-speaking kingdoms. It wasn’t until the 15th century, when the Inca began expending into Bolivia, that the different groups would be reunited into an empire.
At the start of the 1400s, the Quechua-speaking Inca already held a large kingdom, which was centered on their capital in Cusco in modern-day Peru. Starting in 1438, they began a campaign of systematic expansion into Ecuador, Argentina, Chile, and Bolivia. Throughout the 15th century, successive Inca rulers conquered more and more of the Bolivian highlands. By the 1520s, the Inca ruled much of present-day Bolivia, except the lowland areas. (Today, the legacy of the Inca conquest is still apparent in Bolivia’s dialects. Descendants of the Inca or Inca-held territories often speak the Inca language, Quechua, while descendants of unconquered tribes often speak Aymara.)
In addition to introducing their language into Bolivia, the Inca also brought with them their religious beliefs, their building know-how, and their use of quipu (knotted strings used for numeric information like census and accounts). As Inca subjects, the local people of Bolivia were expected to perform mit’a, or public service labor, for a set number of days each year.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 37 The 1520s were a period of upheaval in the Inca Empire. The rapid expansion of the previous century had left the empire’s resources stretched, and after the death of the king Huayna Capac in 1527, internal struggles over succession further weakened the kingdom. Thus, when the Spanish arrived in 1532, the new king, Atahualpa, did not have the necessary resources to easily fight them off.
Here Come the Spaniards; There Goes the Silver
The Spanish conquest of Bolivia happened quickly. At the decisive Battle of Cajamarca in 1532, the Spanish forces—led by one Francisco Pizarro—overcame King Atahualpa’s personal bodyguard and captured the Inca ruler. For many historians, the execution of King Atahualpa on August 29, 1533 marks both the formal the end of the Inca Empire, and the official conquest of the region by Spain.
During the Spanish colonial period, Bolivia—then known as Upper Peru—was part of the Viceroy of Peru, and was ruled from Lima. The Upper Peru region soon became treasured for its silver, which helped keep Spanish coffers full. For all the romantic legends about the gold of the New World, it was actually silver that was behind Spain’s economic rise, and it was Bolivia’s mines at Cerro de Potosi that provided most of that silver. The Potosi mine was so important, and its product so in demand, that a massive boomtown quickly built up in the surrounding area. Less than 100 years after it’s founding in 1546, the boomtown had swelled to 200,000 people, making Potosi the largest city in the Americas and one of the largest cities in the world at that time.
And it wasn’t just the Spanish who were familiar with Bolivian silver. Once an official mint was built in Potosi in 1572, the silver changed into coins—the famous “pieces of eight”, or Spanish dollars. These coins quickly became the preferred currency for international trade, and continued to dominate markets far outside of Bolivia for the next 250 years. (Spanish dollars were actually legal currency in the U.S. until 1857.)
Independence
Sadly the great wealth came at a great price. The Spanish not only replaced the government and religion of the indigenous peoples but they also adapted the Inca mit’a labor practice suit to their own ends. Now called “mita”, the labor was no longer public service work for a set number of days, but rather a condition near slavery. Most of the mita workers were forced into the worst conditions, doing the hardest, dirtiest, and most dangerous work in the mines. Many died from exposure to mercury, which was used in the mining process.
While some indigenous peoples tried to enter into colonial society, others, especially the mita workers, felt that armed resistance was the only solution. Thus, for the entire length of the colonial period, indigenous uprisings and rebellions would flare up in Bolivia. The most famous of which is the 1780 rebellion led by Tupac Amaru II. Although ultimately unsuccessful, the revolt did attract over 60,000 followers—which at the time, was the population of a decent-sized city.
38 MPG2017 07/13/2017 As Spanish power waned during the Napoleonic wars of the early 19th century, the people’s struggle for independence was rewarded. The Bolivian republic was born in 1825, named for its leader Simon Bolivar. The Peru-Bolivian Confederation was formed just ten years later, and this joint power skirmished with Chile and Argentina. After some victories, controversial treaties, and economic strains among the countries, the Confederation was ultimately defeated and the partnership dissolved.
This set the stage for Peru and Bolivia to go to war, starting with the invasion of Bolivia. Peru was defeated on Bolivian soil, and Bolivia retaliated with the capture of Arica, a major Peruvian port that today is part of Chile. The two countries signed a peace treaty in 1842.
The siege of Arica was not a sign of future victories to come. In fact, since its independence, Bolivia has lost more than half its land to neighboring countries. In the War of the Pacific, for instance, it lost its access to the ocean—and its fertile coastal lands—to Chile (though Bolivia can still import and export via the Paraguay River, which spills into the Atlantic Ocean). It also lost its State of Acre, known for its rubber production, to Brazil.
The Modern Era
As silver increased in value in the early 1900s, Bolivia gained wealth and political stability. For much of the first half of the 20th century, its laissez-faire government was ruled by the social elite. A class system of dramatic extremes developed, leaving the indigenous people little choice but to work in silver mines in terrible conditions.
The National Revolutionary Movement promised to turn all that around. But once it took hold (by force, after losing the 1951 elections), leadership within the party proved fractious. Weak governments, military coups d’etats, fiscal crises, and human rights scandals marked the next several decades.
The 1990s saw dramatic economic and social reforms, thanks in part to a newly formed Congress and the election of Sanchez de Lozada as president. Infrastructure—airlines, railroads, and telecommunications—all improved. But not all were pleased with his social and economic policies. Controversy erupted over his ineffective attempts to compensate coca (cocaine) growers to voluntarily destroy their crops, and over his stance toward the powerful teachers’ union. The mid-1990s saw strong economic growth. But international trade, domestic struggles, and regional issues—including financial crises in Brazil and Argentina— brought a decline.
Today, for the first time in almost 200 years, Bolivia’s president is a native Aymara, Evo Morales. His major initiatives—eradicating illegal coca production and smuggling, nationalizing Bolivia’s natural gas fields, and developing a new constitution to give more power to the indigenous people—have gained strong support in concept, but some of his policies and strategies aimed at full equality are controversial.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 39 Colombia
Facts & Figures • Area: 439,736 square miles
• Capital: Bogotá
• Languages: Spanish is the official language.
• Ethnicity: Mestizos (mix of European and Amerindian) 58%, White 20%, Afro-Colombian 21%, Amerindian 1%
• Location: Colombia is bordered by Brazil, Ecuador, Panama, Peru, Venezuela, the Pacific Ocean, and the Caribbean Sea.
• Geography: Colombia is the fourth largest country in South America—roughly the size of Texas and California combined. In the west, low peaks rise over the flat Pacific lowlands. Moving inward, these give way to the three mountain chains that run across the center of the country. Mountain peaks of up to 13,000 feet soar over these central regions. Moving further east, the countryside descends to grassy lowlands, and then to the coastal areas on the Caribbean Sea.
• Population: 46,736728 (estimate)
• Religions: Roman Catholic 90%, other 10%
• Time zone: Colombia is in Eastern Standard Time. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 6am in Bogotá
National Holidays: Colombia
In addition to the holidays listed below, 05/01 Labor Day/May Day Colombia celebrates a number of national 07/20 Independence Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Ephiphany and Easter. To find out if 08/07 Battle of Boyaca Day you will be traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/ 12/08 Feast of the Immaculate Conception holidays. 12/25 Christmas Day 01/01 New Year’s Day
Historical Overview of Colombia Pre-19th-Century History
Among the cultures scattered in the Andean region before Europeans arrived were the Tayrona, Sinú, Muisca, Quimbaya, Tierradentro, and San Agustín. Many of these tribes produced intricate goldwork and pottery. Some left behind tombs and rock paintings which give today’s anthropologists insight into their ancient cultures.
40 MPG2017 07/13/2017 The first recorded Spanish visit occurred when Alonso de Ojeda stepped ashore on the Guajira Peninsula in 1499. (Yes, Colombia is named for Christopher Columbus, but actually he never visited the country.)
Like so many explorers, De Ojeda was in search of the mythical land of El Dorado, and the Amerindians’ gold work made him think he had found it. Word spread about the region’s potential wealth and more expeditions followed. In the end, three different Spanish expeditions raced to the interior looking for the mythical land (and hoping for very real treasure).
At first, local tribes tolerated the visitors, but they soon rebelled when it became clear that the colonists wanted only to enslave them and take their land. But they were no match for the advanced weaponry of the invaders, and soon Spain controlled much of the country. Colonial towns began to prosper, including Cartagena (founded in 1533). In the mid-1500s, Colombia, then called “New Granada,” became part of the Viceroyalty of Peru, and remained under that domain for almost 200 years. During that time the country flourished, and in 1717 Bogotá was declared the capital of the newly created Viceroyalty of New Granada. Sadly, much of the prosperity was due to the widespread practice of importing slave labor from Africa. Some historians estimate that so many Africans were brought to Colombia that they outnumbered the indigenous peoples.
Independence
Throughout the 18th century, the Spaniards held tight control over the land. Spain regulated commerce, taxes, and duty; in addition, only the Spanish court could award the highest political offices. Protests for autonomy increased during the turn of the 19th century, but it was actually events in Europe that would spark Colombia’s independence. As with many other Spanish colonies, it was the news that Spain had been attacked by Napoleon that forced the issue to the surface. In Colombia, the news divided the country. Many cities or regions formed their own autonomous governments, which is why this period is sometimes nicknamed “la Patria Boba,” or “the foolish fatherland.”
In the end, the great unifier of these various groups was the Venezuelan liberator Simón Bolívar. (This is not as odd as it may seem at first—modern-day Venezuela was part of the New Granada territory.) As the Spanish troops tried to retake their former territories, his army led the fight for independence. With the decisive Battle of Boyaca on August 7, 1819, Bolívar’s troops won the war. Colombia joined Venezuela and Ecuador to form the Republic of Gran Colombia, but even with Bolívar as the first elected president, political differences led to the dissolution of the republic after ten years.
Political Division
Many of the differences were actually centered on Simón Bolívar and his vice president, Francisco de Paula Santander. The two had very different views on how the new country should be governed; by 1849, these differences were formalized into two political parties—the Conservatives and the Liberals.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 41 Conservatives had centralist tendencies, believed the government should be allied with the Roman Catholic Church, and favored a limited voting pool. The Liberals leaned toward a decentralized federal government, preferred a separation between church and state, and advocated broader voting rights.
This division set the tone for the rest of the century. Civil chaos festered. Fifty insurrections and up to eight civil wars unfolded, culminating in the bloody War of a Thousand Days in 1899. (“Up to eight civil wars” because some historians classify certain conflicts as revolts, uprisings, or attempted coups.)
Modern History
After such an epic century, and an inauspicious beginning to the next, it might come as a surprise to find that Colombia was relatively quiet from 1902-1947. The main concerns during this period were the building of the Panama Canal and the two World Wars (which Colombia fought on the Allied side). The Panama Canal was especially upsetting to Colombia because until 1903, Panama was a province of Colombia. At the time, it was widely felt that the U.S. had encouraged Panama to break off from Colombia in order to broker a more advantageous deal.
But Colombia’s struggles with political division were far from over. Conflict between the Conservatives and the Liberals ignited again in 1948 with La Violencia, this time killing 300,000 people. A 1953 military coup by General Gustavo Rojas Pinilla helped bring an end to the bloodshed, but did not result in the hoped-for reforms. In the end, both parties collaborated to launch a counter-coup against the general in 1957. The two parties—now called the National Front—agreed to share power for the next 16 years. The suggested power share took an unusual form—instead of governing together, the parties would take turns in presidential office. (So the for the first 4-year term Colombia had a Liberal president, for the next 4-year term it was a Conservative, and so forth.)
The National Front agreement ended in 1974 with the election of Liberal President Alfonso López Michelsen, but some semblance of the two-party system continued. Meanwhile, left- wing guerrilla groups were surfacing: the National Liberation Army (ELN), Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC) and the April 19 Movement (M19).
Drug cartels in Medellín and Cali were also gaining power and influence at this time—often through violence, but also through newfound wealth. The relations between the burgeoning cartels and guerilla groups became complicated. Some guerilla groups began using the drag trade to fund their actives, while others rejected the cartels entirely, even going so far as to kidnap cartel family members. In reaction, many of the cartels started death squads that were, in theory, to protect themselves from the guerrillas. (In reality, many of the death squads were right-wing paramilitary groups who were used to terrorize civilians and increase the cartel’s share of the drug trade.) The most notorious of these paramilitares was the United Self- Defense Forces of Colombia (AUC).
42 MPG2017 07/13/2017 By 1990, widespread violence threatened to paralyze the country. In 1991, government control was strengthened with the signing of a new constitution and the surrender of Pablo Escobar, the head of the Medellín cocaine cartel. After his escape in 1992, he was tracked down and killed. After Escobar’s death, and the public arrests of other key drug kingpins, many of the large cartels began to break up into small groups that turned on each other.
The 1990s also saw a change in public sentiment about politicians’ relationship with the cartels. Although it was widely understood that corruption was rampant, many had been hesitant to speak out. But in the late 1990s, accusations arose that claimed President Ernesto Samper’s campaign had been financed by drug money. Independent conservative Andres Pastrana, who had blown the whistle on Samper’s Cali connections, won the 1998 election. It was Pastrana who first unveiled “Plan Colombia,” a comprehensive plan to combat drug trafficking, strengthen the democratic process, and improve Colombia’s human-rights record.
Recent History
Vowing to continue his predecessor’s “Plan Colombia,” independent Álvaro Uribe was elected president in 2002. He was a staunch adversary of the guerrillas, and for the first few months of his presidency, the war grew intense. But a major breakthrough occurred in 2003 with a peace treaty between the government and the right-wing paramilitary AUC. Talks with the last remaining left-wing guerrilla group (FARC) have been on and off for a decade, but today their numbers have dwindled to half of what they were in 2000. Uribe was re-elected in 2006, and succeeded by Juan Manuel Santos in August 2010.
Ecuador
Facts & Figures • Area: 109,484 square miles
• Capital: Quito
• Languages: Spanish is the official language; Quechua is also spoken.
• Location: Ecuador is bordered by Colombia and Peru.
• Geography: Ecuador is roughly the size of the state of Washington and straddles the equatorial line. Because of this geographical feature and combined with its different altitudes, Ecuador has a striking diversity of landscapes for a country of its size. Tropical rainforests in the Amazon Basin dominate its eastern section, the Oriente. The Eastern and Western Cordilleras of the Andes make up the Sierra region that bisects the country, topped by the towering peaks of Cotopaxi (19,347 feet) and Chimborazo (20,702 feet). The costa is the Pacific tropical coastal plain, which constitutes about one-quarter of the country.
• Population: 15,654,411 (2014 estimate)
• Religions: Roman Catholic (95%), Other (5%)
07/13/2017 MPG2017 43 • Time zone: Ecuador is on Ecuador Time, which is the same time as U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 6am in Quito.
National Holidays: Ecuador
In addition to the holidays listed below, 05/24 The Battle of Pichincha Ecuador celebrates a number of national 08/10 Independence Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Carnival and Easter. To find out if you 10/09 Independence of Guayaquil will be traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/ 11/02 All Soul’s Day holidays. 11/03 Independence of Cuenca 01/01 New Year’s Day 12/25 Christmas Day 05/01 Labor Day/May Day
Historical Overview of Ecuador There is archaeological evidence of settlements established by hunter-gatherer groups as early as 10,000 B.C. along Ecuador’s southern coast and in the central highlands. Agricultural societies that followed produced the famous Valdivia ceramics, the oldest pottery in the Western Hemisphere. These ancient peoples traded with others in Peru, Brazil, and the Amazon Basin, building a civilization sophisticated enough to construct large coastal cities by 500 B.C. These city dwellers worked metal and had navigational skills sufficient for them to trade with cultures as far away as the Maya in ancient Mexico.
The Inca ruler Tupac-Yupanqui invaded from the south in A.D. 1460, but could not conquer the territories of three strong groups in Ecuador: the Canari, Caras, and Quitu. It fell to his son Huayna Capac to accomplish this in the next generation. The Incas brought their language, Quechua, to Ecuador, where it is still widely spoken today in the highlands and the rainforest.
Huayna Capac celebrated his conquest by building the monumental Inca city of Tomebamba, whose ruins near Cuenca remain impressive today. This Inca city in Ecuador rapidly became as large and important in the empire as Cuzco in Peru. When Huayna Capac was on his death bed in 1526, he split the empire between his two sons; Cuzco became the capital of the southern half and Tomebamba the capital of the northern half. It was in Tomebamba that the last Inca ruler, Atahualpa, began his reign. Later, Atahualpa defeated his brother Huascar in a civil war that weakened the empire just before the Spanish conquistadors arrived.
After Francisco Pizarro and his conquistadors conquered the Inca Empire in 1532, Pizarro made his brother Gonzalo the first Spanish governor of Quito, Ecuador. A few years later, Francisco was killed in a dispute among the Spanish conquerors, and Gonzalo Pizarro rebelled against Spain. He ruled Ecuador independently for over seven years, until Spanish forces defeated his army and executed him in 1548.
44 MPG2017 07/13/2017 Spanish governors ruled Ecuador from Lima, Peru, until the 18th century, after which Spain moved the seat of authority to Bogotá in New Granada (now Colombia). In 1822, Simon Bolivar’s chief lieutenant Antonio Jose de Sucre, brought an end to Spanish rule in the area, though it was not until 1830 that the nation adopted the name “Ecuador” and gained complete autonomy.
Following independence, civil war broke out between the conservatives of Quito and more liberal elements in Guayaquil, initiating a pattern of conflict between right- and left-wing groups that has persisted in Ecuador’s political life ever since. Dictators ruled the nation for the remainder of the 19th century. Ecuador’s 20th-century history was an intricate series of alternating periods of democratic and military rule.
The last period of military rule in Ecuador ended with the presidential election of 1979. In 1984, conservative businessman León Febres Cordero Rivadeneira was elected president, and he succeeded in putting down military rebellions to finish his term in office. He was followed in 1988 by Rodrigo Borja Cevallos of the Democratic Left, who in turn was succeeded by U.S.-born Sixto Durán Bellén in 1992. Then, in 2006, economist Rafael Correa was elected president; he was re-elected in 2009 and again in 2013.
Peru
Facts & Figures • Area: 496,225 square miles
• Capital: Lima
• Languages: Spanish and Quechua are the official languages; Aymara, and a large number of minor Amazonian languages are also spoken.
• Location: Peru is bordered by Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, and Ecuador.
• Geography: Peru is the third-largest country in South America. Topped by towering Andean peaks, its landscape also includes a portion of the Amazon River Basin and an extension of Chile’s Atacama Desert along the coast. Three of Peru’s largest cities—Lima, Trujillo, and Chiclayo—are in the coastal desert region. The city of Iquitos (population 400,000) is the capital of Peru’s Amazon region on the eastern slope of the Andes. It is accessible only by airplane and Amazon riverboat.
• Population: 30,444,999 (2015 estimate)
• Religions: Roman Catholic 81.3%, Evangelical 12.5%, other 3.3%, unspecified or none 2.9%
• Time zone: Peru is on Peru Time, which is the same time zone as U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 6am in Lima.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 45 National Holidays: Peru
In addition to the holidays listed below, Peru 07/28 Independence Day celebrates a number of national holidays 07/29 Independence Day (Day 2) that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter . To find out if you will be traveling 08/30 Santa Rosa De Lima during these holidays, please visit www. timeanddate.com/holidays. 10/08 Battle of Angamos
01/01 New Year’s Day 11/01 All Saints Day
05/01 Labor Day / May Day 12/08 Feast of the Immaculate Conception
06/29 St. Peter & St. Paul 12/25 Christmas Day
Historical Overview of Peru Early History
Although Peru is well known as the land of the Incas, its rich ancient history pre-dates the Inca Empire by thousands of years. The earliest evidence of indigenous societies goes back to the eighth millennium BC. There are indications that organized village life was present as long ago as 2500 BC.
By 1200 BC, several groups had begun moving from the north into what is now Peru. These included the Chavín, Chimú, Sechìn, Nazca, and Tiahuanaco. The ruins of the Chimú city of Chanchan, which was built around 1000 AD, still exist today. Another legacy of these early peoples is the striking religious iconography of the Chavín, who had great influence in the coastal area in their time. They portrayed animals, particularly the jaguar, in a distinctive and impressive style.
New regional cultures arose following the decline of the Chavín and Sechìn around the 5th century BC. The Saliner and the Paracas made artistic and technological advances including kiln-fired ceramics and sophisticated weaving techniques. The Nazca, creators of the huge, cryptic Nazca Lines, were successors to the Paracas culture.
The Incas
The Inca Empire had a surprisingly brief reign at the end of this long pre-colonial history. In less than a century, the Incas expanded their domain from the river valley around Cuzco to the whole region from northern Argentina to southern Colombia, including much of present-day Peru and Ecuador. In addition to their military skill, the Incas had a knack for assimilating the best features of the peoples they conquered. They built their entire empire between the early 1400s and 1532, when the Spanish conquistadors arrived.
In its prime, the Incan capital at Cuzco was the richest city in all of the Americas, dominated by gold-plated temples. Though only fragments of Cuzco’s Incan architecture remain, the renowned ruins at Machu Picchu, an Incan ceremonial center, have survived to astonish the world.
46 MPG2017 07/13/2017 At the very moment when Francisco Pizarro landed with his band of Spanish conquistadors, the Inca Empire had been divided and weakened by a dispute over succession to the throne. Pizarro’s possession of horses and cannons gave him a military advantage, and he also used deception to exploit the situation. Concealing his true intentions, he arranged a personal meeting with the Inca ruler Atahualpa, then proceeded to assassinate him. The conquistadors sacked the city of Cuzco and took control.
Though Inca resistance continued for several years, Atahualpa’s death ended the Inca Empire. Francisco Pizarro established a new capital city at Ciudad de los Reyes, now Lima, in 1535. It was there that a rival conquistador killed Pizarro during a factional dispute six years later.
Colonial Period and Independence
For 200 years, Spanish officials ruled Peru using native intermediaries as go-betweens to deal with the indigenous population. In 1780, some 60,000 native people rose up in revolt against Spanish rule, led by a Peruvian patriot who used the Inca name of Tupac Amaru. The Spanish ultimately put down this revolt and another in 1814.
Peru finally broke free from Spain in the 1820s as wars of independence swept across South America. Jose de San Martin of Argentina and Simon Bolivar of Venezuela played key roles in driving the Spanish military out of Peru, which declared independence in 1821.
A series of Bolivar’s lieutenants known as the “marshals of Ayacucho” governed Peru in the following decades. One of the most able of these, Ramon Castilla, presided over the adoption of a liberal constitution in 1860.
The Modern Era
Since then, Peru’s history has been a dramatic alternation between democratic and dictatorial governments, each of which has faced pressing social and economic issues. Opposition to dictatorship has played a prominent role in Peruvian politics since the 1920s, when Víctor Raúl Haya de la Torre founded the American Popular Revolutionary Alliance (APRA).
Peruvian democratic reformers have long advocated guaranteed civil liberties and improved living conditions for the nation’s Native Americans. There have also been radical and violent opposition movements, including the Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path), whose leaders were captured in 1992. Peru’s next four heads of state were democratically elected presidents: Fernando Belaúnde Terry in 1980, Alan García Pérez (an APRA candidate) in 1985, Alberto Fujimori in 1990, and Alejandro Toledo in 2001. In 2006, Alan Garcia Perez was elected President again and—in contrast to his earlier term—he presided over a period of economic growth until 2011 when Peru’s current president, Ollanta Humala was elected.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 47 RESOURCES
Suggested Readings
Bolivia Lines in the Water, Nature and Culture at Lake Titicaca by Benjamin Orlove (Culture) A personal account about the fisherman of Lake Titicaca as told by an anthropologist who lived among them. A bit scholarly, but with lovely photographs.
A Concise History of Bolivia by Herbert Klein (History) Thousands of years, three major empires, a mountain of silver, and dozens of rebellions compressed into 300 pages.
City of Silver, A Mystery by Annamaria Alfieri (Mystery) Set in the 17th century, a catholic nun tries to solve a complex mystery in the silver mining city of Potosi.
From the Mines to the Streets: A Bolivian Activist’s Life by Benjamin Kohl, Linda C. Farthing, and Feliciano Felix Muruchi Poma (Biography/History) This book is like a two-in-one experience. On one hand it presents the gripping biography of political activist Muruchi. But interspersed with the biography is useful background information on the history and economy of Bolivia from Kohl and Farthing.
Bolivar: American Liberator by Marie Arana (Biography) The sweeping biography of Simon Bolivar, South America’s “El Libertador”—the brilliant military and political leader who is considered a founding father in six of South America’s modern nations, and the writer of the Bolivian constitution.
Andean Express by Juan de Recacoechea, translated by Adrian Althoff (Mystery) Set on a train high in the Andes, this 1950s mystery invites comparisons to Agatha Christie’s Murder on the Orient Express. Written by a Bolivian novelist, this is a light and quick read.
Colombia One Hundred Years of Solitude and Love in the Time of Cholera by Gabriel Garcia Marquez (Literature) Seminal works by Colombia’s most famous author, known for his lyrical prose and stories that mix the real with the magical. Years is the sprawling tale of a family that founds a town and their subsequent relations with the inhabitants. Love is a sometimes-difficult tale about the complicated diseases that we call love and romance.
Vine of the Soul: Medicine Men, Their Plants, and Rituals in the Colombian Amazon by Richard Evans Schultes and Robert F. Raffauf (Culture, Botany) The title says it all.
48 MPG2017 07/13/2017 Ecuador Banana: The Fate of the Fruit That Changed the World by Dan Koeppel (History) In this lively account, Koeppel traces the history and political influence of this not-so-humble fruit. His travels take him to India, Ecuador (the world’s largest producer), and finally to Columbia and Guatemala, where he unravels the complex political story of the United Fruit Company (today’s Chiquita).
The Panama Hat Trail by Tom Miller (Travel Narrative/History) Miller’s entertaining and insightful social history of Ecuador as told through its hat-making history. It’s a classic example of travel writing, and one of the best things written on Ecuador.
Billy Budd, Sailor and Selected Tales by Herman Melville (Literature). Look for an edition that includes the “Encantadas” sketches, which are based on the author’s experiences in the Galapagos Islands.
Evolution’s Workshop: God and Science on the Galapagos Islands by Edward J. Larson (Science). What sets this book apart is that it doesn’t just cover Darwin, but also examines what came afterwards, and how the islands continued to influence other evolutionary theories. The same author has also written about the Scopes trial in Summer for the Gods (for which he won the 1998 Pulitzer Prize for History) and the creationist controversy in Trial and Error.
The Beak of the Finch: A Story of Evolution in Our Time by Jonathan Weiner (Natural History). An accessible take on the ongoing debate over evolution that garnered the 1995 Nonfiction Pulitzer Prize.
The Boy on the Back of the Turtle by Paul Quarrington (Travel Narrative). Humorist, novelist, and family man on a quest, Quarrington offers an entertaining account of a Galapagos voyage in the company of his seven-year-old daughter and seventy-year-old father.
Voyage of the Beagle by Charles Darwin (Exploration). The adventurous tale of a young man on a five-year voyage that changed his life and our way of thinking about the world. First published in 1839, this book is still essential reading.
Peru Ancient Kingdoms of Peru by Nigel Davies (Anthropology). An archaeologist (and Inca expert) analyzes recent findings and reassesses scholarly theories surrounding the ancient Inca kingdom. This book may not be in stock at your local bookstore, but it can still be found online.
Conquest of the Incas by John Hemming (History). A masterful history of the Inca struggle against the Spanish invasion. An engaging work that brings together wide-ranging scholarly material in the interests of telling a good story.
Conversation in the Cathedral by Mario Vargas Llosa (Literature). A novel about power, corruption, and identity, set in 1950s Peru under the dictatorship of Manuel Odria.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 49 Eight Feet in the Andes by Dervla Murphy (Travel Account). Murphy and her nine-year-old daughter traveled 1,300 miles by mule through the Andes, from Cajamarca to Cuzco. This account describes their three-month journey.
Incas: People of the Sun by Carmen Bernand (History). The story of the rise and fall of the Inca civilization. It includes excerpts from the writings of conquistadors, travelers, and the Incas themselves.
Lima: A Cultural History by James Higgins (History). An erudite guide to the cultural gems and literary history of Peru’s capital city. James Higgins, who specializes in Peruvian literature, covers the scope of the city’s history from its pre-Columbian museums, to its conquistador heritage, to its dynamic present.
Lost City of the Incas by Hiram Bingham (Exploration). A first-rate tale of adventure by the man who rediscovered Machu Picchu in 1911. This classic account is a gripping story of exploration, archaeology, and natural history—and still an outstanding overview of the site itself.
The Bridge of San Luis Rey by Thornton Wilder (Literature). A 1928 novel by the Pulitzer Prize- winning Wilder, set in the Peru of 200 years ago. The story, about five travelers who are killed when a bridge built by the Incas collapses, is told from the point of view of a Franciscan missionary.
Turn Right at Machu Picchu by Mark Adams (History/Travel Narrative) The humorous and engaging tale of what happens when a modern-day adventurer tries to follow the steps of Hiram Bingham by re-creating the expedition that discovered Machu Picchu.
1491: New Revelations of the Americas Before Columbus by Charles C. Mann (History). Mann portrays the richness of culture and history that already existed before the arrival of European settlers. And contrary to popular belief, what he describes is not remote villages in a pristine wilderness, but a series of populous, sophisticated societies stretching from South America, through Mexico, and up the U.S. Mississippi Valley.
At Play in the Fields of the Lord by Peter Matthiessen (Literature). A wild tale about the impact of outsiders on an indigenous tribe, set in the Peruvian Amazon.
Life in the Treetops: Adventures of a Woman in Field Biology by Margaret Lowman (Memoir). The sprightly memoir of an ecologist who climbs, studies, and sleeps in trees for a living, balancing multiple roles of scientist, wife, and mom. She continues her story in a second memoir (written with her now-grown sons) entitled It’s a Jungle Up There, More Tales from the Treetops.
Little Tiny Teeth by Aaron J. Elkins (Mystery). When a forensics professor joins an Amazon riverboat expedition, he expects a vacation. But in a jungle full of predators, he realizes the humans may be the deadliest of all. (We promise, this won’t happen to you.)
Tales of a Shaman’s Apprentice by Mark Plotkin (Culture). An ethnobotanist recounts his work documenting the use of medicinal plants among remote Amazon tribes.
50 MPG2017 07/13/2017 The Enchanted Amazon Rain Forest: Stories from a Vanishing World by Nigel J.H. Smith (Culture). This is a fascinating introduction to the people, culture, and geography of the rainforest.
The Lost City of Z: A tale of Deadly Obsessions in the Amazon by David Grann (Biography/Memoir). This riveting, real-life adventure tale bounces between a biography of Colonel Percy Harrison Fawcett and the author’s own quest to find out what happened to the great explorer, who disappeared in the Brazilian Amazon in 1925. (Although set in the Brazilian Amazon, we’ve included this book because it gives a good sense of exploration in the mysterious Amazon forest).
The Mapmaker’s Wife: A True Tale of Love, Murder, and Survival in the Amazon by Robert Whitaker (History) Colonial politics, the travails of a cartographer, and a good old-fashioned murder all add intrigue to this absorbing tale of 18th-century European exploration of the Amazon and one woman’s quest to find her husband deep in the jungle.
The River of Doubt: Theodore Roosevelt’s Darkest Journey by Candice Millard (History/Biography). A must-read account of a journey to the Amazon by Teddy Roosevelt late in his life—and one that almost ended his life.
The Three Halves of Ino Moxo: Teachings of the Wizard of the Upper Amazon by Cesar Calvo and Kenneth A. Symington, Translator (Culture). A Peruvian author’s portrayal of the world of Amazonian sorcerer Ino Moxo and the deep and complex folklore of the region. Explains how this “green magician” continues ancient traditions including the use of plant medicines and chanting.
Suggested Movies
Colombia Love in the Time of Cholera (2008, Romance) A story about love, patience, and (of course) cholera. Based on the novel of the same name.
Romancing the Stone (1984, Adventure) Part adventure, part romantic comedy—a novelist and an adventurer team up to on a treasure hunt in Colombia.
El Rey (2004, Drama) The fictional story of a drug kingpin set in Cali, Colombia during the 1970s. Kind of like a Colombian Scarface or Godfather.
Ecuador Charles Darwin and the Tree of Life (2009, Documentary) This one-hour film explains Darwin’s theory of evolution with panache. An extension of the “BBC Earth” series narrated by David Attenborough.
Darwin’s Darkest Hour (2009, Drama). A dramatization of the year leading up to the release of Darwin’s theory, which was nearly “scooped” by a rival scientist.
07/13/2017 MPG2017 51 Fitzcarraldo (1982, Adventure) The story of an obsessive rubber baron who is determined to build an opera house in Iquitos (the gateway to the Peruvian jungle) and will go to incredible lengths to achieve his goal.
Galapagos: The Islands that Changed the World (2007, TV Documentary). A beautifully shot documentary about the diversity of life in the islands, narrated by actress Tilda Swinton.
Inherit the Wind (1960, Drama). Although set in the Deep South, and not South America, Darwin’s theory of evolution is very much at the heart of this courtroom drama, which is loosely based on the Scopes “Monkey” Trial.
Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World (2003, Adventure). A seafaring adventure set during the Napoleonic Wars, when maritime battles were key to England’s fight against France, even if those battles were off the coast of South America (as depicted in this movie). A few key scenes are set in the Galapagos.
Peru Fitzcarraldo (1982, Adventure) The story of an obsessive rubber baron who is determined to build an opera house in Iquitos (the gateway to the Peruvian jungle) and will go to incredible lengths to achieve his goal.
In Search of History: Lost City of the Incas produced by the History Channel (2005, Documentary) An informative overview of fabled Machu Picchu, including the story of its rediscovery in 1911.
Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Ocean Adventures: Return to the Amazon produced by PBS (2008, Documentary) In the 1980s, Jean-Michel accompanied his famous underwater filmmaker father, Jacques Cousteau, on an expedition down the Amazon River. Twenty-five years later, her returns with his children.
Secret of the Incas (1956, Adventure) Heston stars as a fedora-wearing adventurer racing against a rival treasure hunter to track down a fabulous Inca artifact in Peru. This film is notable for being the first time a Hollywood studio filmed on location in Machu Picchu, and for its influence on the Indiana Jones series.
The Celestine Prophecy (2006, Drama) When an American history teacher joins a friend in Peru on a whim, the last thing he expects is to get caught up in an ancient prophecy and a religious controversy.
The Naked Jungle (1954, Adventure) Deep in the South American jungle, a swath of ravenous ants are eating everything in sight, and Heston’s cocoa plantation is right in their path. Also in harm’s way is his new mail-order bride, played by Eleanor Parker. Not for serious cultural study; just a lot of fun.
52 MPG2017 07/13/2017 Useful Websites
Overseas Adventure Travel Forum (tips World Weather from previous travelers) www.intellicast.com www.oattravel.com/forum www.weather.com www.wunderground.com Overseas Adventure Travel Store www.oatshop.com Basic Travel Phrases (80 languages) www.travlang.com/languages International Health Information/CDC (Centers for Disease Control) Packing Tips http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel www.travelite.org
Electricity & Plugs U.S. Customs & Border Protection www.worldstandards.eu/electricity/ www.cbp.gov/travel plugs-and-sockets Transportation Security Administration Foreign Exchange Rates (TSA) www.xe.com/currencyconverter www.tsa.gov www.oanda.com/converter/classic National Passport Information Center ATM Locators www.travel.state.gov www.mastercard.com/atm Holidays Worldwide www.visa.com/atmlocator www.timeanddate.com/holidays
07/13/2017 MPG2017 53 NOTES
54 MPG2017 07/13/2017 NOTES
07/13/2017 MPG2017 55 For information regarding your existing reservation: Visit www.oattravel.com/myaccount or call us toll-free at 1-800-221-0814