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AMÉLIOREZ VOTRE ANGLAIS Autumn 2010 AND TEST YOUR FRENCH FREE / GRATUIT Nº 29 Your English Speaking Services Directory www.anglophone-direct.coml h dit Properties Of Charm Throughout The Roussillon

RealR l EEstates’t t ’ new propertyt galleryll iis now open att 1 placel dde lla République, 66400 Céret, from where we are happy to welcome clients between 9h00 and 19h00 non-stop Monday to Saturday and 9h00 to 12h00 on Sundays.

Stone-Built Mas dating from 1750 set in 97 hectares of forest and meadows. Main house plus three apartments, stables, and a further unfi nished outbuilding. Located in a private setting just a few minutes’ drive from Saint Laurent de Cerdans. 1,095,000 €

Panoramic Views from this immaculately presented 3 double bedroom villa with offi ce, separate apartment and heated pool, set in 7,700m2 of land. Well designed with many indoor and outdoor entertaining spaces. Edge of Oms. 495,000 €

Character Mas full of rustic charm and original features with independent water and power supply, this beautiful Mas sits in 4 hectares of woodland and old vineyards. Great views and only 10 minutes from the restaurants and shops of Reynès. 369,000€

IIff yyouou aarere llookingooking ttoo bbuyuy oorr ssellell a ppropertyroperty ccontact:ontact:

Real Estates SARL +33 (0)4.68.56.94.54 1 Place de la République www.real-estates.fr 66400 Céret 2 [email protected] Carte Professionnelle: 66-2010-30-T • Caisse de garantie: QBE France 30.000€ Edito...

Register for our Holà free weekly newsletter, I love autumn in the P-O. Warm sunny days, cooler and stay up to date with life in the Pyrénées-Orientales. nights and mornings, kaleidoscopes of wild yellows www.anglophone -direct.com and cornfl ower blues twisting and turning against a backcloth of faded summer green, as stylish red and russets peep out timidly to assess the seasonal situation. Golden days that you wish you could bottle and drink with friends over the winter months to come. The vignerons are busy in the vineyards preparing the vines for the new harvest. What a job! I can’t help thinking that it is our duty to help them out by drinking their wine in quantity! A guided tour of Perpignan , a perfect autumn picnic high above the Tech valley, ‘dégustation’ tips for the 2010 ‘vins primeurs’, language exercises, daft jokes and a bucketful of useful (and useless) information about the Pyrénées-Orientales await you in the pages to come. Dive in and enjoy!

Wherever you are, and whatever you are doing, we do hope your autumn is golden this year in the PO. Kate & Jane Contact us

Advertising Magazine gratuit. Tout Droits réservés, To fi nd out more about how your Reproduction interdite business can benefi t from advertising in PO Life and Anglophone Direct contact Concepteur et rédacteur: Kate Michelle on 06 12 22 23 70 (advertising only) Maquette & Création: Blyth Spirit [email protected] www.blyth-spirit.com | tel: 04 68 05 86 71

Editorial Impression: Imprimerie du Mas Tirage: 9000 ex Ne pas jeter sur la voie publique - Anglophonedirect For editorial queries & comment accepts no responsibility for the competency of [email protected] people and services advertising in PO Life 09 64 48 51 86 (editorial only) 3 Food&drink

Visit our stunning 19th century Hunting Lodge and Gite, nestled in the charming hilltop village of Corsavy, in the tranquil Riuferrer Valley. Our elegant rooms enjoy views of the valley and are equipped with showers, PC’s with DVD players, free unlimited internet access and Wifi . An unrivalled base to explore this beautiful region. After a day’s walking, fi shing, bird watching or skiing, why not relax in our heated pool or 4-seater hot tub English, French, Dutch and German spoken Open all year round www.landreu.com 66150 Corsavy - France 4 Chambres d’Hotes & Gite Tél : 04 68 37 57 22 Index Walk the region Porteille de la Grave...... 6-7 Did you know...... 8-9 Events festivals & traditions ...... 10-13 Food & drink Vins primeurs/Wine in it’s prime ...... 14-16 Fête des Vendanges ...... 17 Restaurant review ...... 18 Simple fi g chutney ...... 21 Out for the day In Perpignan ...... 24-27 A drive from Agly to Tet ...... 28-29 Tours of Cabrenç ...... 29 Time travelling in Bélesta ...... 30-33 Test your French ...... 34-37 Améliorez votre Anglais ...... 38-39 Health & Beauty...... 40-41 Let’s get physical...... 42-43 FrenchLife ...... 44-45 ArtLife More than meets the eye /Split ...... 46-47 Over the border Cité de l’Espace, Toulouse ...... 48 Thing you might need to know ...... 50 BookLife ...... 52 Faire la bise ...... 54-55 Taxi!! ...... 59 Emergency numbers ...... 60 English Speaking Services ...... 62-63

Vide Greniers Palais des Congrès, Perpignan organises events, exhibitions, salons, Visit our site at www.anglophone- concerts and conferences throughout the direct.com for an up-to-date list of year. Check out their website on the vide greniers in your area. www.congres-perpignan.com

5 Walktheregion... with Mike Rhodes

Porteille de la Grave

Porteille de la Grave 2426m from Lac de Bouillouses. UTM Grid WGS84 – 31N 418168E 4712375N - 18k, 6 hours and 455m of ascent Starting from the barrage at Lac de Bouillouses, 2005m, built 100 years ago to create the lake and supply power to run the Train Jaune, this walk follows the route of the Tet river as it fl ows down the glaciated valley of the Coma de la Grava. Today the artifi cial Lac de Bouillouses is an important water reserve (16 million m3) but also one of the most beautiful lakes in the area. Access The walk splits. The RH route follows the Take the D118 Les Angles road From the far end of the barrage Tour du Capcir, but we continue from Mont Louis, for 1.5k until turn right, North, and follow the on the LH track and climb into the you see a sign for Barrage de well marked path, through the Coma de la Grava. Bouillouses. In the summer school forest, by the side of the lake. The 3 We have only reached 2030m holidays the road is closed to cars path is marked with white and at this point but it feels a lot more. after 1.6k, just after the camp site. red dashes, identifying the route Our chosen route continues to You will see a large parking area as a “Grande Randonnee” and it is meander gently up the valley for on the right where the navettes in fact part of the Cross Pyrenees a further 4k to a height of 2150m. depart. The cost is 5 euros per GR10 route. Although the path Stay on the LH side of the stream person for the uphill trip. Coming generally follows the lakeside, before turning westwards and back is free!! it is far from fl at, climbing and climbing into a higher valley at The navette drops you by the descending small knolls and Estanyol where wild horses can Auberge du Carlit (great place for crossing several stream valleys. often be found grazing. This valley a beer at the end of your walk) After 3k (1 hour) exit the forest is a favourite training ground where you can cross the barrage. into pasture land and the path for helicopter pilots and it is not 6 CollioureC and Canigou The bluest blue I ever saw Was sea surrounding Collioure The whitest white you’ll ever view Is snow-cloaked, sun-soaked Canigou And from its peak along the shore You’ll catch a glimpse of Collioure The whitest white, the bluest blue Collioure and Canigou By Jon Benns

unusual to see the bright orange east facing valley so take care. Pedros 2842m, both involving rescue copters from Osseja doing The snow slopes can be avoided a scramble to the summit. The their low fl ying exercises. by taking the rocky slope to western side of the col provides 3 At Estanyol, the stream that the right. a superb picnic site where you feeds the source of the river Tet 3 As you approach the col the can also watch the fully loaded comes down the slope from the slope eases and a stunning view GR10 walkers, labour up the steep left but ahead the Porteille de explodes before you. Way below slope from the W. la Grave looms up at the head of is the Etang de Lanoux, subject 3 For the fi tter walkers, it is a the Coma. of a dispute between France and simple but steep option to climb 3 Cross the stream to the RH side Spain when, with the building of the Puig de la Grava, 2671m. of the valley and start to climb the the barrage, water was diverted fi nal 700m distance and 130m of north to Toulouse, instead of 3 We return by the same route height gain to the col, following fl owing into the Segre and into but the views are totally diff erent an ever steepening, rocky path. Spain. Behind the Lanoux rise and the prospect of a cold beer at Early in summer, banks of snow the towering twin peaks of Puig the Auberge becomes more and tend to accumulate in this de Coma d’Or 2826m and Puig more appealing.

Mike Rhodes is an International Mountain Leader / Accompanateur de Montagne, lives all year in Les Angles and specialises in guided walks in the high mountains and Snowshoe trips in winter. He can be contacted on +33 (0)4 68 04 37 28 email: [email protected] web site: www.pyrenean-trails.com 7 Didyouknow...? I forgot to tell you….. scenery of the P-O, his apprentice, Filmed entirely in the Pyrenees Marie, played by Emilie Dequenne, Orientales, in a variety of is searching for new beginnings locations, Laurent Vinas- after a turbulent adolescence, Raymond’s “J’ai oublié de te and the chance to pursue her dire” (I Forgot To Tell You) stars interest in painting. A strange kind Egyptian-born actor Omar of friendship develops between Sharif along side the lovely the two as Marie takes on the Emilie Dequenne. task of unravelling, repairing and The fi lm follows Jaume played protecting the gruff artist as his by Omar Sharif as an aging artist mental health deteriorates. Tender, descending into dementia, from heartbreaking….. an Sharif who fl owers in the fridge to vinegar in has never been better, despite his the cake mix. Amidst the stunning rapidly approaching 80 years!

The Lydia Going off the rails militant women who had been Did you know that Le Barcarès A diff erence in width between refused employment in favour means “a dry spot to which Spanish and French railway tracks of more ‘pliant’ workers, lay on boats can be dragged” in has been put down in the past the track. The train carrying “scab” Catalan? Rather suitable as to a deliberate move on the part workers stopped just in time, the Lydia, (casino, restaurants, of the Spanish to prevent French the women received an extra bars, disco, laser shows, pool armies invading Spain by train. 50 centimes per wagon load, with waterslide…..) is a 100 The technical reason was in fact and the militants were off ered metre steamship which was to allow more powerful engines equal employment rights! This deliberately beached in the to function in mountainous was the fi rst successful industrial sands of Le Barcares in 1967 country. Of course, this diff erence strike by women in France. and has been a permanent in track width meant that Today, as trains pass through feature ever since.. goods had to be unloaded and Cerbère, some goods trains reloaded onto diff erent wagons still have to be adjusted each when they crossed the border. time they pass from country As oranges used to be one of to country. However the the most important imports, Talgo passenger trains from women called “transbordeuses Montpellier to Barca and d’oranges”, used to carry out southern Spain have to go this unloading and reloading, through a shed at Port Bou carrying baskets weighing where the axel width is widened. 15 – 20 kilos. In February 1906, Vice versa coming back. poor pay prompted a strike All will be diff erent with the which continued on and off new TGVs which will all use until December. A group of standard European gauge.

8 If you receive an email from the Department of Health telling you Hair-raising history not to eat tinned pork because of King Charles the Bald, (Charles II le Chauve) son of swine fl u - ignore it. Emperor Louis the Pious and It’s just spam. grandson of Charlemagne, was not really bald. In fact, it is believed that he was actually Just over the border…….. quite a hairy chap! The ‘Castell de Sant Ferran’, built in Figueras, in the mid 18th On the other hand, Wilfred century, is apparently the largest castle in Europe. The walk the Hairy, (Guifred le Velu or El around the perimeter of the castle is a fl at 3km walk with Pelut) who was made Count of superb views over the Empordà Plane out to the sea. Barcelona, Besalú and Girona by And have you noticed the pink, orange and yellow building going King Charles the Bald, was not up on the right hand side of the motorway, direction Figueres known to be particularly hairy. Girona? Càrcel Puig de les Basses is a new prison, due to open in Charles the Bald also ordered 2011, built to conform to the high the assassination of Wilfred standards required by the modern the Hairy’s father, Sunifred 1st, criminal of today. A pleasing and legend has it that the hairy visual interior, sports facilities, one avenged his Dad’s death pool, and tree lined walkway by challenging his assassin, along side the cells, which will Salomon, Count of Roussillon, to be in independent units, with a duel and killing him. Dipping, lounge and patio, sport facilities his hand in his own blood, he (gym etc) hairdresser, canteen, traced 4 bloody stripes on the library…... The philosophy surface of his golden shield et behind this is to rehabilitate prisoners accordingdi to personalisedli d voilà – the CatalanCatalan cocoatoat ooff ararmsms programmes, tailor made for drug addicts, sexual predators.... was born! French Spanish border contravenes Schengen According to the Schengen agreement of 1995, internal borders were to be abolished and EU members were to have ’ free movement’ . Despite heavy summer traffi c bottlenecks at both motorway and Le Pethus borders, the Catalan frontier continued to be the most heavily manned border in the EU! Threats by the EU to impose fi nes of over 10 million euros if customs booths were not dismantled, have fi nally hit home, border police controls have been abolished, and customs will move to Le Boulou on the A9.

Big Stone Explained Many a wall of a traditional stone house of the PO has one stone far larger than all the others in the wall. Apparently, in the old days, everybody pitched in to help build a house. Each time the scaff olding went up a stage, a competition was held to see who could mount the biggest stone. The bigger the stone, the bigger the glass of wine (or pastis) afterwards! 9 Eventsfestivalstraditions..... SEPTEMBER DIADA DE CATALUNYA- 11th September - The Diada de Catalunya, is a national holiday throughout Catalonia and the Balearic Islands, the anniversary of the day in 1714 when the Franco-Spanish army captured Barcelona, bringing an end to the region’s independence. It is an annual commemoration of a bloody and controversial episode of Catalonia’s history. People wave ‘senyeres’ or ‘estelades’ (Catalan fl ags) and hang them on their balconies, and red and gold are the colours of the day, which is punctuated in unique Catalan style by concerts, fi reworks, parades through the streets, sardanes, gégants and castellers amongst other events.

7th September 18th September to share the Catalan culture. LATINO EVENING 21h30 FESTA MAJOR DE Free entry to many of the Place Méditerranée, Canet SANT FERREOL museums, monuments, Free concert with « Los Céret - ermitage St Ferréol - exhibitions and attractions. Payos » www.ot-canet.fr This 13th century chapel had Beware! They are not all free and the hermitage added in the it is worth checking in advance. 10-12th September 18th century along with other www.journeesdupatrimoine. CAP LIBERTE SENIORS FAIR buildings to accommodate the culture.fr Palais des Expositions, many pilgrims who came to 24-26th September Perpignan - Products, services pray at the chapel of St Ferréol. and information targeting the Saint Ferréol himself actually FETE DE LA ST COME over-50s sector, with “Espace lived in the third century but ET ST DAMIEN Anglophone” off ering Anglo- his sacred remains were moved Argelès-sur-Mer French suppliers, organizations to Céret for security during the Several days of festivities, and useful advice. crusades against ‘heretics’ of the crashing to a grand fi nale 13th century and a chapel built on Sunday 26th with the 18th September to honour them. The chapel parade through the streets INTERNATIONAL bells, named Maria, Margarita et of the Argelès giants. ART FESTIVAL Salvaterra, date back to1608. www.argeles-sur-mer.com Chateau Valmy, Argelès-sur-Mer www.ot-ceret.fr Until 3rd October Art salon 18-19th September with grape-pickers meal, auction, evening viewings, LES JOURNEES EUROPEENNES concerts…http://assosarg.fr DU PATRIMOINE Around the region Museums, exhibitions and cultural centres invite visitors 10 OCTOBER 25th September 25-26th September 3rd October

CHARITY SHOE PYRAMID INTERNATIONAL RENCONTRE GEGANTERA Prats de Mollo-La Preste - 9H RECORD AND COMIC Argelès village - Meeting - 12H - Each shoe symbolises STRIP FESTIVAL of the Catalan ‘giants’ from the lives and limbs lost to Eglise des Dominicains & around the region cluster bombs and other Chapelle du Tiers-Ordre, 16th - 17th October explosives. Bring along your Perpignan - Vinyl, cassettes, old shoes and place them CDs and comic strips. INTERNATIONAL DOG SHOW on the pyramid. Afterwards, Concerts, fi lms including Parc des Expositions, Perpignan they will be distributed to the avant-premiere of « Exhibitions and puppy sales, charitable organisations. Nowhere boy », biography demonstrations of defence, pratsdemollolapreste.com of the young John Lennon. obedience, agility, sheep dog roundups, doggie fashion 25-26th September 26th September parade on the catwalk (or TROBADES MEDIEVALES Festival Jazzèbre should that be dogwalk?) Perpignan centre and Around the region www.congres-perpignan.com Fort of Serrat d’en Vaquer Until 17th October. A series 22nd - 24th October (next to Auchan) of jazz and world music Great fun for all the family, concerts with special FESTA DE LAS BRUIXAS this medieval weekend takes homage to Great Black Music. (Pron: brooshas) us back in time to the days Regional concerts in towns Tressere - Fairies foul and foulies of the kings of Majorque, around the P-O and the fair... witches and wizards arrive lively and colourful, with a Aude and ’musical picnics’ at on their broomsticks when careful reconstitution of the natural and cultural sites, as the village and its visitors dress affl uent and long ago times. well as exhibitions, debates, up for a weekend of myth, musical apéros, fi lms... legend and Catalane culture. www.jazzebre.com End October

FOIRE SAINT MARTIN Palais des Expositions, Perpignan Until the end of November. One of the longest standing travelling fairs Don’t forget to turn your clocks in France comes to the Parc des back - Sunday October 31st 2010 Expositions in Perpignan, bringing French Wintertime - clocks go back one hour you all the fun of the fair - big (during the night of Saturday/Sunday morning) This means that mornings will be lighter but it will wheel, ghost train, candy fl oss, grow dark earlier. dodgems...... a family day out or a (Clocks go forward last Sunday in March 2011) wild evening in the tunnel of lurv!

11 Eventsfestivalstraditions..... November 11th November LA CASTANYADA – 1st November FOIRE AUX ETALAGISTES - Historically, La Castanyada, celebrated on All Saints Day, Perpignan, Stalls along the banks of was to honour saints and dead ancestors. Whole villages the river perpignantourisme.com would stay awake in vigil, and the church bells would ring 11th November throughout the night. They would eat ‘castanyes’ (roast chestnuts) along with ‘moniatos’ (roast sweet potatoes) and Castagnade Corsavy. - Castagnade’ ‘panellets’ (small almond balls covered in pine nuts) and accompanied by vin nouveau, music, share Muscat in ‘porrons’, glass wine pitchers with stem to dancing and a cosy autumn atmosphere pour wine into your mouth without touching lips, and avoid 17th November passing on bugs! The traditional, high energy foods were served up to prevent them from passing out from lack of CELTIC LEGENDS - Parc des Expos, sleep and the eff ort of ringing the heavy bells. Cemeteries are Perpignan - An Irish show based in France, busy this weekend of remembrance and chrysanthemums this Riverdansesque show has live musicians are on sale on every street. Don’t off er them to your hostess on pipes, accordion, fi ddles, whistles and when invited out for dinner! They are for the dead guitars, along with both traditional and Tourisme de Terroir Coming from the French word ‘terre’ for “soil,” the word ‘terroir’ originally described the special characteristics of a region, or piece of land, which gave diff erent varieties of wine, coff ee and tea their individuality. (Soil, climate, position, regional traditions….) Over the centuries, French winemakers developed and took for their own the concept of terroir but the word is still often used to describe rural activities, harvest festivals etc. In autumn, the P-O celebrates every imaginable ‘produit de terroir’, be it animal, vegetable or mineral. Here are just a few... SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 16th – 17th - Ur 8th – 19th - Canet 3rd - Canet International Horse Fair La Ferme à Canet-en-Roussillon Olive oil festival (and Matemale A festive occasion to meet parade of the giants) Potato fair the region’s farm animals….. 9th – 10th - Banyuls-sur-Mer 18th - Perpignan and their produce. La fête des vendanges, Fête des vins primeurs, 12th September - Rabouillet Wine harvest fair New wines festival Hazelnut fair 10th - Castelnou 11h-18h, Rue Mailly 19th - Baillestavy Farm produce market and Rue de l’Ange Catalan Donkey Festival 10th - Casteil 21st – 24th - Le Boulou 26th - St-Michel-de-Llotes Chestnut Festival Tastings and entertainment based Honey and bee festival 10th - Mont-Louis around produits du terroir 26th - Prats de Mollo Hunting, fi shing and 25th - Sahorre Mushroom festival mushroom fair Apple fair 15th - Perpignan 31st October – 1st November Nuit des vins primeurs, Olette New wines night Autumn fair - market 12 and entertainment BankB holidays (Jours Fériés) Bank holidays always take place on the day on which they fall, unlike in England where they are sometimes moved to a Friday or a Monday to extend the weekend. Many larger shops now open on ‘jours fériés’. - La Toussaint (All Saints Day) 1st November - Armistice of WW1 (1918). Flowers are placed on contemporary dance and 11th November music. Try and stop yourself the tomb of the ‘soldat inconnu’ (unknown soldier) beneath the Arc tapping and stamping your de Triomphe in Paris and other war memorials around the country. feet, clapping your hands and whooping along to NowhereNowhere to run? the music and vocals! www.boitaclous.com Marathons around the region

27th November Sunday 5th September Sunday 10th October

FETE DE LA SAINT PRATS-DE-MOLLO THUIR - “L’ESCAPADE THUIRINOISE” SATURNIN Vernet-les-Bains “TRAIL DU COL D’ARES” 25km 15km More info: 06.29.64.48.78 More info: 04 68 53 41 47 A weekend of festivity, Sunday 5th September Saturday 16th October dancing, music and entertainment, held in VILLENEUVE DE LA RAHO CABESTANY honour of St Saturnin, patron “LA RONDE DU LAC” 10 km “LE VENDEMIAIRE DES CES DAMES” More info: 06 15 20 78 37 Ladies only. 5,2 km against the saint of Vernet-les-Bains. Sunday 19th September clock. More info: 04 68 67 06 96 CERET - La Ronde Cérétane 20km Sunday 18th October More info: 04.68.83.37.23 Sat 2nd Sun 3rd October MAUREILLAS “LA PISTE DES TRABUCAYRES”13km COLLIOURE - “LE TRAIL DES More info: 04 68 83 24 70 VENDANGES” 8 & 32 kms Sunday 24th October More info: 06 27 89 25 43 Sunday 3rd October LE BOULOU “LE MARATHON TRANSPYRENEEN LAROQUE - “LE CROSS DES 3 CATALAN “ 42km CHAPELLES” 13,2 kms More info 04 68 37 06 77 More info: 04 68 89 21 13 Sunday 7th November Sunday 3rd October SOREDE CABESTANY “Le CROSS DE LA ST MARTIN” “LE SEMI MARATHON DU 13km TRAVAILLEUR CATALAN” More info: 04 68 89 00 34 NOVEMBER 7,5 & 21,1 kms 6th – 7th - Caudiès- More info: 04 68 67 00 88 de-Fenouillèdes Chardonnay festival 21st - Prades Foire au Gras School holidays for our region 27th - Throughout Beginning of Summer term - Tuesday 2nd September 2010 the region Toussaint (half term) - Saturday 24th October - Thursday 5th Celebration of the November 2010 Christmas Muscat Christmas - Saturday 19th December - Monday 3rd January 2011 13 Food&drink Nuit et fête des vins primeurs in Perpignan On Thursday 21st October from 18h and on Saturday 23rd October from 11h00 the cobbles of the rue Mailly and rue de l’Ange in Perpignan, run red, white and rosé with ‘cavistes’ touting their new wines (les vins primeurs), fresh from the vines into your glass ….. and for just 5€ (including the glass) it’s ‘try as much as you like’ time! To celebrate the PO and restaurants of Perpignan equivalent to the Beaujolais toast the arrival of the Vin Nouveau (AND out three Primeur with wine tasting and weeks earlier, due to our entertainment. Brass bands sunnier climes!) cavistes, bars in regional dress thump out

Wine in its prime By Jonathan Healey

Jonathan Healey is the author of The Wines of Roussillon and Discovering Wine Country: South of France. He hosts wine tours and wine tasting events in Roussillon. For more information: [email protected]. 14 Terres Romaanes payyss d’aart et de vinn “What contemptible scoundrel stole the cork from my lunch?.” [W. C. Fields] .... discover our selection ofo stunning wines - Reds, WhitesW & Roses CatalanC l tunes andd theh wholeh l eveningi hhas a carnivali l VinV de Pays, AOC & Vdn atmosphere. Whilst there is no real pressure to buy, most bottles TasteT our latest Vin tend to be between 3 and 5 €, so it’s rather easy to get PrimeurP at the Fête des Vins carried away! Some might feel that it would be rude PrimeursP in Perpignan or not to! visitv our caves :- Many local caves also off er an evening of jollity MARQUIXANES and ‘dégustation’ often accompanied by a traditional Rte Nationale 04 68 96 54 96 Catalan Castanyade (roast chestnuts!!!) Our recommendation? Take at least one sturdy bag VINÇA 6 av de la Gare and a designated driver. Continued on page16 >> 04 68 05 85 86 www.vigneronsterresromanes.com Vins primeurs arrive in shops with all the ballyhoo of the unveiling of a new car at a motor show. Except 110%0% ddiscountiscount onon presentationpresentation ooff PPOO LLifeife L’abuseLabLL’L’ab’ buse daldd’ald’alcoolcooool eest dandangerousgerrous ppourouur la ssanté,antéé à consconsommeroommerav avecvec mmoderationodeeration winemakers aren’t launching new cars – they’re launching prototypes. Prototypes are fun The winemakers play with the long haul. They are one-off s your attention, build customer traditions and fi nd innovative that aren’t built to last or to go loyalty, and get some quick ways to renew them, like trendy into mass production. Wine cash fl owing from the vintage. labels and lurid cork and cap heritage will not be diminished Of course, cooperatives do seal combinations. We don’t as you pile up empty bottles. Vins the same, but not always with care that vins primeurs have primeurs are peppy prototypes the same passion. You’ll be not even been road-tested, or meant to be fun and frivolous. paying € 4-something, not € that they don’t need to pass the They are not meant to have 3-something, for a Primeur from appellation’s Contrôle Technique. leather upholstery and cigar box an independent, but go the extra They rev out of the pits, some still aromas. They are boy racers for Euro. Look for a mention of grape fermenting in their tanks. They day trippers. They cheerfully get variety, too. If you like Merlot, may handle unpredictably. Too you where you want to go. buy a Merlot Primeur. In your much acidity and they over steer, glass the colour should be clear giving your tongue whiplash. Tasting Tips and sustained all the way to the Too little acidity and they under It’s diffi cult to judge a vin rim, not watery. It should have a steer, sloshing across the palate. primeur by looking at the simple, fruity appeal on the nose. Well-balanced examples handle wine through its bottle, so When it’s in your mouth, feel just right, gripping the curves look at the label and cap- for fl avour, body, balance, and around your tongue for a couple seal instead. Look for the length. But remember, these are of fruity laps in slick racing tyres. words vigneron indépendant easy-drinking, uncomplicated But vins primeurs will never be (independent winemaker). wines, they shouldn’t have you ‘vintage’ like a 1958 Ferrari Testa Independent winemakers reaching for your thesaurus, or Rosa. They don’t have tread for make vins primeurs to attract doing a Jilly Goolden! 15 Food&drink << Continued from page 15 Vins primeurs are the fi rst of the harvest, released on the third Thursday in October. They are usually bright red or violet, fruity, with a taste of cherry, strawberry, raspberry, freshly squeezed grapes, depending on grape variety, the production method, and the area in which the grapes are grown. Normally, a very light, easy to drink wine, it traditionally needs drinking before Christmas. And only a month later, the whole shebang starts again for the …..

Fete du Muscat de Noel The third Thursday of November (18th November 2010), we see the launch of this year’s Muscat de Noël, with events in local caves and a launch in Perpignan. Again, the Muscat de Noël is the wine from the same year. A good MdN should be very pale in colour and will have an intense aroma of white peaches, fl owers and even hints of lychee and mint. No Christmas table or fete is complete without a bottle of this delicious nectar from the Gods. Check out the MdN website for up to date information at www.muscatdenoel.com

16 Fête deS Vendanges Book your own table on the beach (info from town hall) and Banyuls-sur-Mer invite your friends to make a day of it with you. Take your own food and drink, BBQ, or buy food and The annual Fête des Vendanges takes place this year on the wine from the many beach bars 9th and 10th October, with tastings and merriment which have and restaurants. to be seen and experienced to be believed. On Sunday the beach becomes in great quantities, much Boudoir positively medieval, the smoke wine is drunk and, towards the Literally “a place to sulk in” from endless grillades rising up end of the afternoon, Catalan from the French “bouder” in to the autumn air, musicians, Barques zig zag a ballet in meaning to sulk. stilt walkers and jugglers mingling the bay before bringing the with the crowd, food is consumed “harvest” in to the shore. 17 Food& drink Ascoli,Restaurant Restaurant Review John Frazer-Robinson, returns to St Cyprien this Italian restaurant on the marina- side at Les Capellans, Saint Cyprien.

When I took on this arduous task, Kate The house pichet wine is very drinkable but at explained that she didn’t want to publish €11.50 it should be –however his list of local and bad reviews as she sees the task of this column Italian wines also includes a personal favourite - simply to track down good restaurants for the Chateau Les Pins – both red and white. It’s over benefi t of P-O Life readers. €20 a bottle but if you like it, I think it’s worth it. Ok. Here’s one that fi ts that bill perfectly. First Glorious. though, I must come clean and admit that Moss, In true Italian tradition you will be off ered a the owner/chef, has now become a friend, based digestif of grappa or limoncello on the house. As for on the fact that we have been back so often. ambience and location you are right on the marina The menu off ers all the typical range of pizza and in St. Cyprien.. pasta dishes, with some interesting veal and other meat options, and a ‘menu bambino’ at €6.50. Some Restaurant Ascoli of the dishes just have to be singled out… Centre Commercial des Capellans Girasolis aux Crabes – round ravioli stuff ed with 66750 St Cyprien crab and served with a yummy sauce including Téléphone: 04 68 22 71 34 ‘Queenie’ size scallops Mari Monti – scallops and Food XXXXX king prawns in a superbly creamy, lightly tomato’ed Wine XXXXX sauce Price XXXXX From the seven veal Choices, I love the bread- Service XXXXX crumbed Escalope Milanaise. Or perhaps you’d prefer a choice of entrecôte steak with any one of Ambience/Location XXXXX six sauces. Moss is a dab hand at sauces which is just as well really since his range of pastas comes with nine to pick from! Alongside the veal, steak and pasta choices, there are fi ve fi sh and seafood dishes and fi fteen pizzas, including the Calzone, delicious folded over pizza with an egg inside. For afters perhaps an Italian cheese selection or the mouthwatering (I am informed!) and mandatory Tiramisu. 18 Laissez-vous porter par nos saveurs d’Orient . . . Specialising In Fine Lebanese Cuisine Couscous Grillades Lunchtime Menu “rapide” Take away service available Lebanese cuisine is an exquisite blend of refinement and Mediterranean flavour explosions....

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Reservations recommended Open 7 days a week Tel: 04 68 37 25 84 06 62 66 90 29 www.aubergeducedre.fr Mas Sabole, D900 just 5 mins from Perpignan and Le Boulou 66300 VILLEMOLAQUE 19 Food&drink

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Plat De Jour 12 Euros Menu Enfant 7 Euros Daily “Ardoise” Menu from 18.50 Euros Classic French Bistro Dining All of our dishes are prepared using only the very fi nest fresh produce Beautifully re-furbished tradtional art deco brasserie over looking Perpignan’s Rive Gauche A warm welcome awaits 7 days a week - Non Stop Excellent Wine Selection - Including all the very best Vin Primeurs

20 04 68 510 510 | 29 Quai Vauban 66000 Perpignan Simple fi g chutney

Rich in minerals, a good source of potassium, manganese and iron, for the fi gs, season with salt & fi gs also contain vitamins A, B and C and a decent amount of fi bre. pepper, bring to the boil, and Pick them ripe from the tree, as they don’t ripen well once picked A simmer for 30 minutes. very fi rm fi g is not ripe and will not properly ripen further. They also Once the liquid has reduced have a very short shelf life, so you should eat or freeze them within to syrup, add the fi gs and cook seven to 10 days of harvesting…. or make them into this delicious for a further 15 minutes, stirring and simple fi g chutney which will keep for months.. occasionally. Pour into sterilised jars, and Ingredients Method allow cooling. • 13 - 15 fresh fi gs Remove the stalk from the • 150ml balsamic vinegar fi gs and cut into quarters.. • 100ml red wine vinegar Heat the oil in a large pan over • 300g soft brown sugar a medium heat • zest and juice of 1 lemon and fry the onion • 2 red onions (sliced thinly) for 5 minutes until • 2 teaspoons mixed spice soft and slightly • 10g fresh grated root ginger, caramelised. or 1 teaspoon of dried ground Add all the ginger other ingredients • 1 tablespoon of olive oil to the pan except

NATURE & GASTRONOMIE Restaurant | Tea Room Epicerie Fine & Biologique Unique Inspired Cusine For a true taste of something different Fine Wines & Champagnes Orignal works of art on permanent display - to admire or buy Partenaire Agréé Catering service available for weddings, parties, fêtes etc. Open Monday Specialists in a mouth watering array of hot chocolates, 14h00 - 19h00 artisanal ice creams and speciality teas from around the world Tuesday to Saturday Open for lunch, “gouter” and afternoon tea 9h00 - 19h00

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Life in the slow lane

Why not combine lunch or dinner at the Auberge Valley, (La Vallée des Tortues - 04.68.95.50.50) one of des Albères in Saint Génis des Fontaines, with a visit the last European tortoise sanctuaries - a little piece to the ancient cloister, built from diff erent coloured of paradise for both domestic and wild tortoises. marble, white from Céret, pink from Villefranche- Or just a little further towards the coast, in Saint de-Confl ent and black from the Corbières? André, the Ferme de Découverte ( 04.68.89.16.39 ) Children will love the short but delightful drive awaits you, with 300 farm animals just waiting to be from there to the ‘Vallée Heureuse’ to visit Tortoise caressed, cuddled, fed………

22 Visit this famous ancient Lintel in the nearby church in Saint Genis des Fontaines Auberge des Albères Restaurant, Wine & Tapas Bar

3 CourseCourse Midweek LunchLunch Menu from 13€50 The Real Tasttee of 2 Courses from 11€50 the Mediterranean Childrens Menu 7€00 Using onlyl theh finest locacal, seaasos nal ingredientts we offer a mououthwwateriingg For a “lighter bite” why range of varied, inspired dishshes not relax with a glass of In Spprinng & Summmer enjoyy dini ing on wine and a selection of our pleaasant covered sun teerrracec . In home cooked Tapas the coldlder monnths soak up the waarmtthh and ambience of our chc armingn dininng room with roaring openn fire Just 10 Minutes from the tourist hustle & bustle of Argeles Sur Mer Ample free parking 78 avenue Maréchal Joffre 66740 SAINT GENIS DES FONTAINES

FForor ReservationsReservations : 0044 6688 8899 8888 3388 wwww.auberge-des-alberes.comww.auberge-des-alberes.com 23 Outfortheday...... IINN PERPIGNANPERPIGNAN

It’s VISA time again! VISA pour L’IMAGE: Perpignan opens the doors of its most illustrious venues to show the world the very best photographs of the world’s very best photojournalists. For the fi rst couple of weeks in September international visitors will fl ood in, fi lling the cafes and restaurants, resting between feasting their eyes on unforgettable images shown in unforgettable buildings. It is a brilliant way to explore and enjoy Perpignan. And if you miss VISA itself, the Tourist Offi ce in the old Palmarium on Place Arago (tel 04 68 66 30 30) off ers a selection of interesting tours of the historic centre and is well worth visiting. Rue François Rabelais, near the top of Quartier St metres wide, 25 metres long, its vaulted ceiling 16 Jacques, is the largest VISA venue lies. In the 15th metres high. Room for quite a few photographs. century the Couvent des Minimes, photographic In the vast cloisters photographers and visitors excellence is on show on the walls of every corridor, can relax and take a break before moving on to dormitory, refectory, church and chapel that make the nearby Chapelle Sainte Domimique. During up the large and rambling collection of buildings. the Middle Ages Perpignan was blessed with any The church, huge with a fi rst fl oor gallery, is 11 number of monasteries. Almost all religious orders

24 were well represented. Many are now used for exhibitions and concerts. St Jacques was originally the Jewish Quarter, created in 1243, by James the Conqueror. He wished to develop Perpignan’s economy. Perpignan was becoming known internationally for its cloth business and the drapers needed more money to improve their trade. Jews were well known as moneylenders. By off ering them special privileges he persuaded them to live right next door to the cloth merchants and drapers. The ploy was immensely successful and all prospered. ( Until 13th September 1493, that is. On that fateful day Ferdinand of Aragon and his queen, Isabelle of Castille, came to Perpigan and on the 21st of the same month, all Jews were given thirty days to leave, taking nothing with them. ) In 1245 the same James the Conqueror gave the Dominicans land on which a leprosy hospital condemned to death or hard labour. stood. It took them almost a century to complete Outside is the Place de la Revolution Française the soaring and beautiful building we see today. where, in the dappled shade of tall plane trees, the This time the photographs are hung on long wires, lizard fountain spouts water at several tempting almost dwarfed by the height and beauty of their restaurants. surroundings. A small courtyard joins the Chapelle For the most spectacular plane trees you Ste Dominique to the Chapelle du Tiers-ordre. The must go to the Square Bir Hakeim. It was named true splendour of the doorway was discovered in memory of the desert battle where, in May during the preparations for a VISA festival, traces 1942, the French held the superior strength of of colour indicating that the alternatively round the German/Italian off ensive at bay allowing the and almond shaped arches were originally brightly troops of Montgomery to defeat those of Rommel painted. The Tiers-ordre chapel, full of dramatic at El Alamein. The trees planted in 1809 are still 19th century art, is where the “Trabucayres”, (bands there, the fountain still sparkles and, with the of highwaymen) who terrorised the roads of the Promenade des Platanes, it is one of the main lungs Albères in the mid 19th century were tried and of Perpignan.

25 Outfortheday...

roof terrace there are wonderful views over the rooftops, up to the Palais Royal and, in the opposite direction, to Canigou. The Palais des Rois de Majorque, is not a VISA venue but is a must-see if only for the equally good views from the impressive red brick ramparts. It is made up of a succession of citadels starting in 1276 as a residence for Jaume II of Majorca, on to Louis XI in 1475, Charles Quint in 1535, Philippe II in 1564 and fi nally fortifi ed by Vauban for Louis XIV in 1679. It contains a beautiful chapel, some rather austere royal apartments and a grand courtyard. The wild lions that used to roam the moat have long gone. Free concerts can often be enjoyed within its walls. From the Castillet it is only a few steps to the Place de la Loge, marble paved and full of cafes Further green space lies on either side of La and restaurants. Maillol’s voluptuous statue of Basse, the river that runs through Perpignan. Here Venus faces the 1397 Loge de Mer, once the you may admire the municipal plantings from Stock exchange and the HQ of the Consulat de the decking of the Quai Vauban but you may not stroll on the well-tended grassy banks. Vauban’s walls have all but gone, Where to Eat ? as have the older city walls that preceded With so many restaurants, good bad and indiff erent, in them. You can see a model of the city Perpignan, it’s tempting to stick to regular haunts isn’t as it was in 1686, showing the proposed it? Why not try something diff erent this time? For classic Vauban Fortifi cations as you pass under the French Bistro dining in traditional art deco surroundings archway of the Porte de Notre Dame by and great ambiance, try the Vauban Restaurant on the Rive the Castillet. Once incorporated into them, Gauche, or to escape the madding crowd, take a wander down Passage Doisneau and relax in the cool surroundings the XIV century Castillet, symbol of the of Nature & Gourmande for fi ne cuisine with a diff erence. city, remains. Originally built as a fortress it now houses a museum of Roussillon Folk Bon appetit! Art and is another VISA venue. From the

26 Mer. Next door is the XVI century Town Hall, a classic example of Catalan architecture, and, relaxing in the courtyard, La Mediterranee, another Maillol bronze. Next door again, the Palais de la Deputation used to be the seat of the Roussillon Parliament and a sombre setting for a variety of gruesome executions. in France. A grand square, whose graceful arcades The Cathedral St Jean, (St Jean being the patron contained the tombs owned by wealthy burghers saint of Perpignan), is nearby on the beautiful Place in the Middle Ages, it is now used for open-air Gambetta. It was raised to cathedral status in 1602 concerts, lectures and, during VISA, on a huge when Perpignan displaced Elne as the seat of the screen, showings of the best of the best press Bishop. The vast, rather sombre interior has been photos. recently restored and houses some spectacular More are shown on an equally huge screen in religious art, an impressive 19th century organ and the magnifi cent Place de la Republique. As night a large pre-roman white marble baptismal font. falls the Place fi lls, all tables are taken in the many The original old Romanesque St Jean le Vieux is bars cafés and restaurants and photojournalism par joined to the cathedral by huge buttresses but is excellence is the order of the night. unvisitable. In 1892, Bartissol, a self made extremely Actually, at any time, it is a delightful place in rich and important man, not only tore down some which to sit, eat, drink, shop and relax. An old of the original city walls to build a series of luxury 1795 watercolour shows that this, indeed, was apartments right next to the cathedral Cité Bartissol how it was planned. Then known as Place de la but also, realising the city needed more light, Liberté, the theatre was built in 1813 and there acquired St Jean le Vieux to house much needed were plane trees under which each morning there electricity generators… was a market and each evening the good folk of On the other side of the cathedral lies the Perpignan would stroll. Campo Santo, one of only two cloister cemeteries Not so very diff erent from today.

27 Outfortheday... A drive from Agly to Tet, from Lapradelle-Puilaurens to Prades

There are many good drives from valley to valley, this one takes Michel, on the left of the D2 just you through a variety of diff erent and dramatic landscapes, before Sournia. You could stop past fascinating rocks, distant farms, ruined castles and many in Sournia for refreshment and monuments. decide whether to continue on It starts at Lapradelle just off attractively through its centre the D2 to Trevillach, Montalba the D115 on the D22 where and the small chapel of St Jean- le Chateau and Ille sur Têt or Chateau de Puylaurens towers Baptiste is worth visiting. take the D67 to Campoussey. in all its splendour above the After Montfort sur Bouzane the BoBothth rroutesoutes araree a bibitt wiwildld valley of the Boulzane. A noble road practically doubles back on and fairytale castle from the itself rising up through forest and battlements of which marvellous farmland before crossing over the views are to be had, over the 1020 metre Col d’Aussières out village, the 1904 railway viaduct of the Aude, into the P.-O. and and the Forest of Fanges. becoming the D2. Continuing along the From Rabouillet you can see D22 and following the river the ruined Chateau d’Arsa, built Boulzane through the forest past upon huge granite boulders. Salvezines, you arrive at Gincla, A piste leads you to it and on an interesting village to visit for to Sournia passing a couple of its history of iron forging from small chapels, notably that of 1308 onwards. The river runs St Laurent west of Arsa and St

28 www.all-free-photos.com To the Tours of and wonderful but I favour Cabrenç for a Perfect Campoussey, a picturesque Autumn picnic village in a landscape of sparse garrigue scattered with dolmen and strange rocks. When there’s a light sprinkling of snow on Canigou and the The church is unusual in that vineyards are just turning gold it’s a good idea to pack up a picnic it has two Roman doors and, in and head up the Vallespir. front of it, two huge elm trees. After Arles sur Tech take the D44, in ancient Catalan, seems an Leaving Campoussey on follow the signs for Serralongue apt title, goats could well have the D619 you pass close and soon you are high up above designed the path. Gradually to a fi ne dolmen and the the Tech valley surrounded by the chestnuts give way to beech strangely shaped Roc Cornut grand mountains and farming woods, huge granite boulders before winding your way ever country. From Serralongue village appear and , as you approach the downwards. The views over the the three towers of Cabrenç towers, the only sounds are of valley of the Têt sweeping up to are easily visible, perched on distant cowbells and the rustle of Canigou are stupendous. Just a nearby mountaintop. The fallen leaves around your boots. above the pretty little village fi rst is the remains of the 10th The view from the top is of Catllar you join the D14 and century castle, the second the wonderful. Mountains for miles from there it’s an easy drive into keep of the castle added in the and the Castle Keep makes Prades. 12th century and the third the the perfect spot for a picnic. signal tower built in the 14th The past may have been full of century. Serralongue village had frantic fi ghting and demented been built in the 10th century defending of high mountain to provide lodgings for the passes, but all you see today is serfs of the Castle of Cabrenç. peace and beauty, the animals To reach the towers, take small as toys, making their way the road to Lamanère, but turn from meadow to meadow far off up a track marked “To The below. Towers” before you get there. A It is quite a climb up to the steep path leads through the top the third tower but when straight trunks of sweet chestnut you do get to the top a beautiful woods, sunlight glittering on the enamelled Table of Orientation remaining leaves, golden light shows you are 112 km from allowing glimpses of craggy Barcelona, the Bay of Roses is way peaks and occasional farms. A over the border in that direction, beautiful but long commute it is only 40 km from Collioure for the 10th century peasants and Canigou of course is just getting to work in the castle there … from Serralongue on a daily The descent by the same path basis. “Cabrenç” meaning goat is easy. 29 Outfortheday...

Time travelling in Bélesta de la Frontière… Slip back in time six thousand years and, in a cave in the August it is possible to visit. limestone rocks behind the village of Bélesta, Neolithic man’s It is easy to see how it got its life is a busy one. Land has to be cleared, wheat, barley, peas reputation as a witches lair, how and lentils grown. Sheep, goats, pigs and cattle are raised, both exciting it must have been to for food and for wool. He supplements his diet by hunting boar, play and made camps in it before deer, rabbits and birds. Domesticated wolves are his hunting the treasure it contained was dogs. Life expectancy may be around 35 years, infant mortality discovered. There are modest rate high, but, for those who survive infancy, life is healthy. beginnings of stalactites, the Wool is spun and woven, and clothes made from the cloth. light fi lters in through vegetation The creation of jewellery, fi ne pottery and useful tools are blocking holes in the boulders. among his skills … The well, ten or more metres All this and more we know found in the Midi. In it were the deep, is unaccessible. The tiny thanks to some potholers bones of thirty or more human entrance through which the who, in 1983, discovered a beings as well as twenty eight potholers crawled also. The passage, starting in the cavern beautiful pottery vases dating soft fl oor is how it has been for behind the village played in by from 4715 / 4365 BC. These are centuries, hiding and protecting generations of local children… now on display in the museum, millennium of history. The Archaeologists, led by Mme as is a perfect reproduction of sculptor who took the moulds of Françoise Claustre, began to dig. the original cave. The cave itself, the sepulchre for the museum Under the debris of six thousand on its arid limestone hillside, is had to crawl fi fteen metres years they uncovered the oldest barred and locked although, on to reach it. He suff ered from communal sepulchre to be Thursday afternoons in July and claustrophobia. The fumes of the 30 materials he had to use made it terrace are splendid views over necessary for him to return to the the vineyards to Canigou, of the surface frequently. Painstakingly bell tower of the 12th century he performed his task. In the church and of the former wine museum his replica takes pride co-operative recently converted of place so we have no need into a designer hotel, restaurant to crawl back in time to the and winery. Neolithic funeral parlour. We can Due to open in early autumn marvel at it all in room fi ve in the 2010, organic, ecologically Chateau. sound and four star luxurious, In 1258, Louis IX (Saint Louis) the RIBERACH Cave Hotel and of France and James I of Aragon “LA CO-OPERATIVE” Restaurant signed the Treaty of Corbeil, will bring to Bélesta more than redefi ning the French border just a touch of class. Luc Richard, with Aragon and placing Bélesta architect with a passion for wine, fi rmly on the new frontier. The is bringing his life long dream Chateau, with its useful lookout to fruition. Born and bred in tower and deep cistern was Bélesta, grandson of a vigneron, fortifi ed. Over the centuries it he and his team are taking the restaurant, open to all, will use passed from family to family 1925 Cave Co-operative and local produce. The four menus until, during the Revolution, the creating something unique and will change frequently, subject remaining occupants, fi ve sisters exciting. Their motto? None to available fresh ingredients., of the Niort family, were thrown other than the emblem of the not unlike the Neolithic menu out and the Chateau fell into original cave “Un pour tous, tous in the museum, although the ruin. In the 80’s it was rescued pour un!” presentation is likely to be more and in 1992 began a new life as He and his wife, Karin sophisticated. They will range the Chateau Museum of Bélesta. Pühringer, have dreamt and from 29 – 69 euros. There will In the IX century signal tower is lived the project since 2006. The also be an extensive a la carte a frieze of fashion from Neolithic to modern man. The jewels and clothes discovered in the cave, as well as the tools used by those distant inhabitants are on display. History, from Neolithic through Bronze to the local agriculture of the twentieth century is explained and set out in the series of rooms that formed the original castle. There is a Neolithic menu created from the plentiful local produce of 6000 years ago. From the 31 Outfortheday...

and an irresistible dessert trolley. the same attention to detail that called “natural ice” was used on The views from the huge plate characterises the entire project. market stalls of the region until glass windows over the valley Bélesta is fortunate indeed to 1920 – 1930. Ice wells were built add an extra dimension to the be placed so fi rmly on the wine near a source of water, ideally experience. A large terrace tourism map of France. on a slope shaded from the sun overlooks the “Basin Baignarde”, A fortune in which all who live but open to the breeze. The a large, naturally fi ltered pool, set in or visit the P.-O. can share… wells were dug and impressive in the vineyards below. From the Co-operative you circular walls raised, watertight The Cave will house a Wine may chose to walk the 3 – 4 hour and insulated. They were roofed Boutique where a wide range of “BALADES A TRAVERS LES AGES”. by two layers of dry stone tiles local and less local wines will be Before reaching the entrance on sale and where tastings will to the cave, on the left, is a fi eld be held. planted with scrubby oak trees And the Hotel. Each of its 18 in neat rows. They are truffl e rooms have been created in or oaks, Harvested regularly, they above the old wine cuves, all are another of Bélesta’s many with views over the valley, all treasures. No doubt they will with private terraces and each appear on the menu of the one with a diff erent décor and Riberach Restaurant. Leaving ambience. the cave locked and barred on The 9 doubles, ranging in your right, the piste continues price from 115 euros to 135 + to the ruins of a 17th century according to season, 7 suites “Ice Well”. Before the days of (160 – 185 +) and 2 family rooms fridges the ice business was an (185 – 215 +) are furnished with important industry. In fact, so-

32 separated by a layer of sand. In known as the “Moulin d’En border between France and winter, water collected in small Gateu”. Until the terrible fl ood Aragon, the frontier between artifi cial lakes would be frozen, of 1940, kitchen gardens ran its the Occitan Fenouillèdes and then cut into pieces and carried length and wheat from which Catalan Roussillon. Simple and in heavy containers on porters’ the fl our was ground was grown somewhat phallic, they stand, backs to the wells. Straw was on all the terraces. The medieval thrusting out of the encroaching used for extra insulation and so mill itself is perfectly placed garrigue as they have done for thorough was the construction where the river Crabayrisse runs the last seven hundred odd that the ice could be kept and between great granite blocks years... Engraved on the southern used all summer. It was carried, that form a natural barrage. side of the nearest is the simple by night, to the village in The canal supplied water that cross of Aragon. wooden panniers under layers collected in two basins before of straw, leaves or wool. Near the falling onto the blades of a Returning to the present, well is a vestige of an old pottery vertical water wheel that drove take the Caladroi road for the kiln where tiles for the chateau the grindstones. Then, in 1836, view of the Riberach Hotel’s were reputedly fi re. the town council built a windmill, windows repeating those of The walk continues along an to the north of Bélesta, and the Chateau Museum above ancient irrigation canal. Moorish the Moulin d’en Gateu slowly it, proof that the architect’s art engineers constructed the local crumbled into the dangerous has stood the test of time and network of canals in the 6th to ruin we see today. that we are fortunate indeed 8th centuries, some of which are Returning to the piste and to be able to appreciate the still used for irrigation to this day. crossing the Crabayrisse, it is a skills of the men who live The canal, often dry and covered brief walk to two of the frontier and have lived and worked in in vegetation, ends at the mill stones marking the 1258 Bélesta for the last 6000 years.

33 TestyourFrench 1 - H pour Hôpital! nitions. Match up these words, all beginning with H, with their defi a haut parleur rangée b homardd’arbres 1 air qui sort par la bouche 2 c hirondelle légume vert, blanc, rouge…. 3 d haleine augmente le volume des sons 4 e hibou qui sort chaque semaine 5 f huître crustacé avec grosses pinces. 6 g hebdomadaire petites secousses 7 désagréables qui soulèvent la poitrine. h hoquets coquillage qui contient des perles ! 8 I haie oiseau de proie, actif la nuit 9 J haricot petit oiseau migrateur 10

2 - Choose the right defi nition

une mite un conjoint a) femme très forte a) mari ou femme b) possibilité b) accord pour l’achat d’une maison c) petit papillon blanc c) cigarette illégale un répondeur un potager a) ce qu’on dit en réponse à une question a) un jardin pour cultiver les légumes b) machine qui enregistre des messages b) une soupe téléphoniques c) un point d’arrivée c) Quel qu’un qui donne des conseils un crapaud a) toilettes sur l’autoroute b) des bêtises c) ressemble à une grosse grenouille

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QFSNJTTJPO www.tpm66.com 34 +33 (0)6 75 46 93 65 3 - Match up these idiomatic sayings

A la bonne franquette 1 a Stop making such a fuss J’ai la gueule de bois 2 b It was love at fi rst sight C’était un coup de foudre 3 c I’m fed up. Ça ne vaut pas la peine 4 d I’ve got butterfl ies in my stomach Ça me donne des frissons. 5 e That sends shivers down my spine Arrête ton cinéma 6 f Don’t take it like that Ne le prends pas sur ce ton 7 g Simply, without ceremony (usually meal) C’est une drôle d’idée 8 h It’s a strange idea J’en ai ras le bol 9 I I have a hangover J’ai le trac 10 J It’s not worth it

Language tip Blague bête Englg issh:h I boughtt my shs ortSS at Une mite dit à son amie: “Je suis au Décathlon (plurar l) régime. Je mange seulement des bikinis” French: J ’ai acheté MON short à (mite – moth Décathlon (singular) régime – diet maigrir – to lose weight) Englg ishh: My hair ISS blonnde (singulaar)) French : Mes cheveuux SONT bloonds (plural) O.val Services

If you take French Lessons in your own home and pay with CESU (Chèque Emploi Service Language Courses Specially Universel), you will probably be eligible for ttailoredailored ttoo ssuituit aallll aagesges up to 50% tax rebate on your payments. aandnd abilitiesabilities Check out http://www.anglophone-direct.com/ • Individual & group lessons available The-cheque-emploi-paying-for for further details. • Learn in the comfort and relaxation of your own home and benefi t from tax savings and discounts • Individual “school help” available for Anglophone children Repeat three times • For a fun, informal and eff ective approach Six chaussettes to learning or improving your French sèchent dans seize RATES - One to one lesson : 25 euros ( oror 12.5012.50 / hourhour ifif youyou areare eligibleeligible fforor tthehe sachets 550%0% “home“home service”service” reductionreduction )

VValériealérie : 0066 2727 9494 4040 6464 [email protected] wwww.ovalservices.frww.ovalservices.fr 35

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+33(0)4 68 38 91 69 69 91 38 68 +33(0)4

[email protected]

www.howfrench.com

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al immersion courses courses immersion al

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for local and new residents new and local for

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Language and advice advice and Language

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FRENCH /ENGLISH teaching & services & teaching /ENGLISH FRENCH

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Test your french - answers - french your Test

Perpignan

moche 12 moche l what a mess a what l

le pinard 11 pinard le k cinema k

dégueulasse (dégeu) 10 10 (dégeu) dégueulasse j funny j

débile 9 débile I It’s a real struggle real a It’s I

’s aglr 8 ! galère la C’est h crazy h

nsiad 7 smicard un g disgusting g

n otr 6 costard un f minimum-wage earner minimum-wage f

ecnce 5 cinoche le e a teenager a e

marrant 4 marrant d ugly d

Quel bordel 3 bordel Quel c ridiculous c

dingue 2 dingue b a man’s suit man’s a b

un(e) ado 1 1 ado un(e) a cheap wine, plonk wine, cheap a

with their English meanings English their with

- - 5

Match up these slang words words slang these up Match

10 ça y est y ça 10 J Let’s go! Let’s J

9 Qu’est-ce qu’il raconte ? ? raconte qu’il Qu’est-ce 9 I What’s up doc? up What’s I

8 Je l’ai échappé belle belle échappé l’ai Je 8 H Who asked you? asked Who H

7 Volontiers 7 G That’s it, it’s done done it’s it, That’s G

6 A tes (vos) souhaits ! souhaits (vos) tes A 6 F Never mind! mind! Never F

5 Qui t’a sonné sonné t’a Qui 5 E I had a narrow escape narrow a had I E

4 Tant pis pis Tant 4 D What’s he on about? on he What’s D

3 J’ai le mal de mer! mer! de mal le J’ai 3 C Willingly, with pleasure with Willingly, C

2 Allons-y ! ! Allons-y 2 B I get sea sick sea get I B

1 Quoi de neuf docteur ? docteur neuf de Quoi 1 A Bless you! Bless A

- 4 Match up the useful expressions! useful the up Match

Test French your Making a complaint Ce ne marche pas (sanuh marsh pah) It doesnt work Ca ne va pas (sanuh vah pah) It’s no good Une autre Je voudrais me plaindre (chuh voodray muh pland) blague bete ! I want to make a complaint Je ne suis pas du tout satisfait Maman citron dit (chuh nuh swee pah dew too satisfay) à ses enfants : I’m not at all satisfi ed « Pour vivre longtemps, il ne C’est un abus de confi ance faut jamais être pressé! » ! (sate an abbu duh confee-onse) It’s a breach of trust (pressé – in a rush) C’est là que vous avez tort (say lah kuh voose avay tor) That’s where you’re wrong Ca fait une heure que j’attends Language tip (sa fay oon euhr kuh chaton) Il y a - there is/there are… I’ve been waiting for an hour Il y avait - there was… Il y aura – there will be… Il va y avoir – there is going to be

When somebody says ‘merci’, answer …. Voici = here (it) is Voilà = there (it) is pas de quoi ...... don't mention it de rien ...... it’s nothing je vous en prie ...... it was my pleasure

ALFMED the French teaching specialist in Perpignan French conversation classes in Perpignan & Céret all year aroundnd French for professionals Intensive French Program - 1,2 or 4 weeks Semester program for study abroad students Junior programs 21 bis, Av. Général de Gaulle - Perpignan between the train station & La FNAC www.alfmed.com [email protected] FREE TEST ONLINE tél : 04 68 62 20 20 | port : 06 25 22 00 90 37 AméliorezvotreAnglais

Il est clair que les anglais aiment les français, il y a tellement 1 - de mots et expressions avec ‘French’ dedans. Trouvez la ‘No’ tout seul bonne défi nition pour les mots ci-dessous qui contiennent peut faire un peu tous le mot ‘french’ méchant non? French bread 1 a le baiser avec la langue Voici quelques French door 2 b fi ler à l’anglais phrases pour French letter 3 c cor d’harmonie vous aider à dire French fries 4 d baguette ‘non’ gentiment. French kiss 5 e vinaigrette French horn 6 f frites I’I m afafraraidid I canan’tt..... to take French leave 7 g porte-fenêtre I’I d (r(reaealllly)y) ratatheher nonot.t..... French dressing 8 h capote anglaise Thank yoy u for asa kikingng Ouch, that but,t I havve too... . English humour! ThT atat’s’ verry kiindn of yoou but

Q: Why didn’t the skeleton II’’d llove to bbut…t… go to the ball? A: Because he had no body to go with!. and another one..

Q: What do you say to a skeleton going on holiday? A: Bone voyage!. (bone = os)

nition de ces mots d’argot anglais 2 - Trouvez la defi a mollasson bloke 1 b mourir brew 2 c bruit cheesy 3 d unettes couch potato 4 e fou 5 cushy 5 f homme kick the bucket 6 g kitsch bonkers 7 h facile rip off 8 i arnaquer specs j tasse de thé 9 1racket 10 38 Very bad joke Q: Why don’t cannibals eat comedians? A: Because they taste 3 - Still, yet, already funny. (funny = amusant OU Still (encore, toujours) indique que quelque chose est toujours bizarre) en cours et n’est pas encore terminé, It’s still raining! Yet (jusqu’à présent, déjà) indique que quelque chose ne s’est pas encore arrivé, mais qu’on s’y attend. Virelangue Hasnt it stopped raining yet? Répétez trois fois Already (déjà) indique presque la surprise que quelque chose s’est terminé si tot. Creamed clams Has it already stopped raining? (Quoi? Mais ca vient juste de crammed in clean commencer!)

cans can clash Choisissez la bonne réponse 1. After all these years, I already/still/yet get lost in Perpignan. 2. Don’t go already/still/yet. You‘ve only just arrived! 3. Haven’t we already/still/yet seen that fi lm? 4. I’m getting worried. She hasn’t come home already/still/yet. Remember... 5. Lazy thing! Are you already/still/yet in bed? Behind every successful man is a surprised woman..

4 - H - is for Hat hail 1 a we hang clothes on these. half 2 b pumps blood through your body hammer 3 c worn to protect your head hanger 4 d Balls of ice that fall from the sky hare 5 e small mammal with coat that prickles heart 6 f a female chicken hedgehog 7 g for hitting nails into wood heel 8 h the back part of the foot helmet 9 I similar to a rabbit

hen 10 j divided into two parts

4- 1d 2j 3g 4a 5i 6b 7e 8fh 9c10f 8fh 7e 6b 5i 4a 3g 2j 1d 4- 10c 9d 8i 7e 6b 5h 4a 3g 2j 1f - 2

3 - 1 still 2 yet 3 already 4 yet 5 still 5 yet 4 already 3 yet 2 still 1 - 3 1 - 1d 2g 3h 4f 5a 6c 7b 8e 8e 7b 6c 5a 4f 3h 2g 1d - 1 39 Health&BeautyLife

Note to husband Because We’re Dear Olivier Just in case you are wondering what to get a gal for xmas Worth It! who has everything, a day of pampering at the Pavillon de Soie would go down a treat! Useful vocab Love Kate XXX Remember, a pampered wife is a happy HAIR (quieter) wife… haircut - une coupe shampoo - le shampooing (shom-pwan) conditioner - l’après-shampooing highlights - les mèches We’ve found an English perm - une permanente speaking hairdresser! layered - dégradé If the language barrier leaves you looking more sideboards - les pattes like Olive Oyl than Oliva Newton John when you fringe – une frange visit the hairdressers, pop eye, I mean pop in to parting - une raie see Samantha, English speaking hairdresser in blow dry – un brushing Cabestany. hair ends - les pointes Would this suit me? - Ca m’irait ? I’d like the colour/roots touching up. - Je voudrais refaire ma couleur/racines.

BEAUTY treatments- les soins make-up - le maquillage hair removal (legs/eyebrows/bikini/ underarm) – l’épilation (jambes/sourcils/ maillot/aisselles) moisturising cream - une crème hydratante. eye cream - un soin contour des yeux. Stylist & Colourist facial - un soin de visage Styling for special occasions - (dry/oily/combinination) skin – la peau weddings, parties, communions... (seche/ grasse/ mixte / peau sèche / peau sensible ou irritable Men Women Children Open with or without appointment anti wrinkle treatment – un soin anti rides Mon- Fri 9am - 6pm. Sat 9am - 4pm closed Wed beauty sleep - sommeil réparateur 30 av Jean Jaures, 66330 CABESTANY And if all else fails….. (the old Ave de Perpignan) plastic surgeon - un chirugien esthétique Ample free parking near by

40 04 68 29 78 74 SPA AGRÉÉ

Unwind, escape, rejuvenate……. Pamper yourself in the heart of Perpignan. Unique to this area - three fl oors of tranquillity and luxury… at prices you can aff ord

Heavy legs? Tired eyes? Two private steam rooms with Stressed and overstretched? aromatherapy of your choice Inspired by ancient traditions and philosophies Massage, beauty and slimming treatments in a from the East, the Pavillon de Soie is an oasis mist of scents for maximum ‘unwind’. of calm to soothe and revitalise both body End this day of total relaxation with a visit to their and mind with luxurious treatments based on hairdressing salon – a complete revamp before remedies from around the world. heading back to the real world! Ancient remedies for modern times……. Also waxing, pedicures, manicures, etc……

Open Monday to Saturday 11h-19h30, Th ursday 21h, 18h on Saturday Le Pavillon de Soie - 14, rue Gustave Flaubert - 66000 Perpignan Tél 04 68 73 39 64 (Ask for Daniele) | www.lepavillondesoie.com Free parking in Jean PAYRE car park for all customers 41 Letsgetphysical...

Up, up and away...

Bored with the beach? Want to see the top of Canigou, but not ULM Base in the P-O where got the time to walk up? Then why not try a trip in a microlight? you can obtain your licence You will certainly see the P-O from a new angle. And don’t worry, with qualifi ed instructors. Why if the word “microlight” conjures up a vision of a lawnmower with choose to fl y a microloght wings; be assured that they come in all shapes and sizes. instead of a light airplane? It From the ULM base at Toreilles sounds a bit daunting, why not is cheaper, the training is more (ULM = ultra-léger motorisé), you indulge instead in a pleasure fl exible and, for those of us can experience the delight of trip? A two hour fl ight climbing over 50, there are less stringent being aloft in a “multi-axe” (almost you up to an altitude of 3200 medical requirements. a plane) or a pendulaire (more metres would give you that view The thrill of fl ying a microlight of a fl ying wing). Introductory of Canigou without the blistered in the P-O is hard to beat. fl ights - or baptêmes - can last as feet. Or you could have a ride Imagine the adrenalin rush on little as 12 minutes, long enough above the Corbières looking take-off , then fl ying out over the to discover whether it is a sport down on the Cathar Castles or, Med with the boats far below “for you” and not so long that you for the less adventurous, a little and turning to see the majestic need to panic. With a “baptême”, jaunt along the coast. beauty of Canigou rising from you get the chance to handle At Toreilles you are not limited the Roussillon Plain. the machine yourself and, if that to pleasure fl ights, it is the only www.ulm66.fr

...back down to earth whole body, using muscles that you didn’t even know you The school summer holidays activities. Not too hot, not too had, climbers must plan out a may be over but the P-O will still cold, it’s the best season for golf, sequence of moves to complete be sizzling a while longer yet. In quad and mountain biking, horse the route, requiring mental fact, we were going to do a special riding, many of the water sports, agility as well as the physical feature on warm water canyoning climbing……. eff ort . Deversud in the Espace but they tell us that it is simply And on the subject of climbing, Polygone, off er a variety of courses not cold enough in autumn in have you ever considered indoor to learn climbing techniques the P-O… and to come back in climbing? It’s a safe and fun in a controlled, supervised December. So that’s what we’ll do! introduction to the outdoor environment, whatever the (Brrrrrrrrrrrr) sport, a physical and a mental weather. Once you are feeling Autumn really is the perfect challenge. As well as being confi dent, they will introduce 42 season for a bucketful of physical an excellent workout for your you into the great outdoors with 110%0% discountdiscount aavailablevailable oonn aallll Discover ccoursesourses aandnd bboutiqueoutique ppurchasesurchases New Heights! fforor POPO LifeLife RReaderseaders Unforgettable Indoor Climbing Experience 11000m000m2 CClimbinglimbing WWallall Safe secure supervised environment, fun for all ages and abilities EExpertxpert ttuitionuition Wide range of courses available, from absolute beginners to experienced climbers, individuals, groups and families “Chill Out” at the end of a climb Visit our climbing & swap stories in our cafe boutique for expert advice and an unrivalled For more information, prices, opening times etc. range of quality climbing 04 68 34 46 58 | www.deversud.com equipment and 16 rue Leon Serpolet, Espace Polygone 66000 PERPIGNAN accessories at low prices

climbing expeditions into the Pyrenees. It’s also a great place to take the kids for birthday parties. s Of course, not everybody wants to climb a élo V wall! Some of us would rather keep our feet & Vélos or wheels fi rmly anchored on the ground so a group or family visit or birthday party to EExperiencexperience tthehe ffun,un, tthrill,hrill, sspeedpeed & eexcitementxcitement AccroQuads near Ille Sur Têt is another diff erent but thrilling way to spend an autumn afternoon. TTwowo uunique,nique, ssafe,afe, ccoursesourses ssetet iinn Hiring a quad bike means that those with driving three hectares of stunning countryside licences can head for the hills and those without • SSnacknack BarBar withwith terraceterrace a licence can drive around the 3 hectares of • RentRent a QQuaduad oorr MMountainountain private land, without getting dizzy BBikeike fforor tthehe ddayay Join us for another round of ‘Let’s Get • TheThe perfectperfect birthdaybirthday Physical’ in our winter issue where we will be ppartyarty vvenueenue experiencing all the thrills and spills of para- • OpenOpen allall yearyear roundround skiing and kite - skiing (assuming our nerves hold out that is!) and re-donning our wet suits 06.12 46 43 94 04 68 35 24 9955 to try out Warm Water canyoning in cold, cold RN 116 – RODÈS (66320) conditions! (brrrrrrrr, brrrrrrrrrr and double www.accroquad.com brrrrrrrrrr) [email protected] 43 Frenchlife... State auctions - Adjugé , vendu!

Have you thought about buying your next car or home by auction?

State auctions (les ventes domaniales) take of a will, confi scation by the authorities…. place throughout France and are organised by The DNID holds over 200 auctions per year the DNID (Direction Nationale d’Interventions of furniture, electrical and household goods, Domaniales), a national, governmental vehicles, and property. Dates and places of sales are administration agency, responsible for selling published online at :- off a variety of state owned property, assets and www.ventes-domaniales.fr estates as well as unclaimed items resulting Go to ‘Ventes Mobilières’ to search for auctions from theft or loss, unclaimed inheritances, lack by region or by category of goods, or head straight down to the bottom of the page to ‘Accès rapide’. Go to ‘Ventes Immobilières’ to search for property. Viewings can be arranged before the auction and the sale price will include VAT, expenses and registration. (frais de vente) Payment can be made at the auction or in instalments, depending on the article for sale.

USEFUL VOCAB

French English Adjugé , venndu Goingg, going ….gone Prrix de réésserve minnimum pricce Mise à prix openning bid RRenchérir to bid Meilleurr enchérisseur highhestt biddder Coommmissaaire-priseur aucttioneer Liquidation juddiciiairree bankruptcy

44 Cancelling or changingg your insurance policy

Most of us who are insured in France have learnt, sometimes through bitter experience, that many insurance policies (thoughh not all) are automatically renewed unless two months notice to cancel is given in advance. In fact, whilst this is true, what When cancelling a policy, we are NOT always told is that always send your letter of insurers MUST give proper notice/ termination by registered post reminder to renew at least 15 and bear in mind that the stampp days before the fi nal date allowed date on the envelope is the datee for cancellation, and if this is not that counts, not the date at the done, you may cancel your policy top of your letter. at anyy time. Qu’estQ ce qui est vert et qui se déplace sous l’eau?? Un choux marin. Compulsory registration for rental properties in France From July 2010, second home and gite owners must register their properties with their local town hall or risk a fi ne of up to €450. Anyone renting out furnished holiday accommodation should fi ll in the simple two page form (Cerfa 14004- 01) available at and returnable The ‘taxe de sejour’ local tax its existence, as it was a diffi cult to, the Mairie, or downloadable set by some communes and tax to control and checks were at http://vosdroits.service- which should be paid per visitor rare. This is all likely to change public.fr, and should receive an per night for rental properties with the new compulsory acknowledgement within a few should continue to be paid as registration but the tax is small, days, (depending of course on the normal. However, many gite varying from 0,20 € à 1,50 € per effi ciency of the commune!) signed owners have not been paying person per night depending on and stamped. And that should be it! this, and were in fact unaware of the commune. 45 aaaaArt a life...

Martin N. Johansen: More than meets the eye by Ellen Hall

artin Johansen has the rugged Nordic looks you might expect of a landscape and wildlife photographer. His love for mountain hiking and biking has drawn him far from the beaten Mtrack to observe nature in its most secret and intimate moments. A man of action who knows when to sit still and observe, Martin’s photographs refl ect his attention to the wonder of what he sees.

Martin’s publishing career appeared in Geo, Terre Sauvage Some of these images will be started at the age of 16 with and other publications. His most part of an exhibition at the site black and white photographs for recent book “Atlantique Nord” of Paulilles from September 1 a Danish fi shing magazine. His surveys Greenland, Iceland and to 26. The work of two other articles and images have since the Faroe Islands with text in photographers, Aouad Said and French and English. Henri Colonna d’Istria, will be also For the past 10 years be on display Martin and his young “By showing the beauty of familyf have lived in landscape I hope to prevent Collioure. His next book too much development and project is about the destruction.” In Greenland wildlifew and landscape Martin recently witnessed how of the Pyrenees from climate change has aff ected VallespirV and Canigou the landscape and the dramatic down to the coast. consequences for the way of life © Martin N. Johansen And now for something COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. “SPLIT” is the title of the exhibition powerful and disturbing, fascinating to be held from 8th – 31st and unsettling. October at the CASTANGALERIE, Unique, totally original and highly 3 Place Gambetta, Perpignan or unusual, in them Phil Monk uses at 7 Avenue du General Leclerc. his remarkable creative energy to (Venue to be confi rmed. Ring 04 expose the struggle towards inner 68 340367 for details) peace. It is a great opportunity to The photographer/ artist/sculptor see them in Perpignan before they is Phil Monk. All his artistic skills are move on to the Contemporary Art discernable in the awesome black Fair in Strasbourg from 24th – 29th 46 and white images on show. The November. resulting photographs are both © Martin N. Johansen of its population. Referring to the is “Respect for our natural trip in the Alberes or overnight recent fl oods in the Var, where environment”. Luckily for us, the on the Canigou, to take water rose up to two meters in Pyrénées Orientales has more advantage of the evening and an hour and a half, Martin says natural reserves than any other early morning light. His website, we should prepare for more department in France. To share www.explorerimages.com, is storms and fl oods in France. his passion for singular landscape an inspiration to pick up your While conceding that progress and elusive wildlife, Martin off ers camera and head for the hills. is necessary, Martin’s message photography workshops - a day See for yourself.

47 Overaaaa a theborder... Top tips from our Forum - www.anglophone-direct.com Cité de l’Espace, Toulouse By thumbelina

We visited the Cité de l’Espace in Toulouse Other Forum Comments in January. What a day out!!! *We visited the Space Centre in summer We took the additional option of a guided and confi rm that it is really a two day tour and paid 66 euros for three adults. visit to see everything - absolutely We started in the main pavilion. Had a go at fascinating - great day out. Well worth walking on the moon and spent hours looking booking in advance online so you don’t - and playing - with the interactive attractions have to stand in the horrendous queue to as well as watching some interesting little fi lms get in like we did. “ and images. Lunch in the main restaurant was excellent and very good value. *ITS BRILLIANT ! Our guided tour was outstanding! The If you’re into anything in relation to the guide was passionate about space travel and world we live in and man’s reaches far personally knows several astro/cosmonauts. beyond it, it’s a must place to visit ! He made the tour so interesting and really Well Impressed ! brought the idea of space travel to life. The tour around a real Mir space capsule was just great. After the guided tour, we visited the Imax theatre to watch a fascinating fi lm about the moon landings. The Cité closed at 18h15 so we had to leave but went back again the next day. Brilliant Meteo France presentation, explaining climate change, meteorology, climatology, oceanology etc. Could have spent hours in just this area. You can also fi lm yourself presenting the weather - absolutely hilarious! And SO diffi cult to read an autocue and point to the right place on a map at the same time Headsets are available in several languages at a price of 4€90 for adults and 3€90 for children. www.cite-espace.com An absolutely fabulous day out which I cannot recommend highly enough! 48 49 Things you might need t English speaking EDF …… and scam A Load of sCrap phone line Thinking of setting up as The scrap bonus scheme (prime If you are having problems an autoentrepreneur? à la casse) introduced by the with your electricity supply, If an offi cial looking letter and French government nearly two account, billing etc and need an form arrive from ‘Inforegistre’, years ago to encourage the English speaker, help is at hand demanding payment for buying of new cars is being on 00 33 (0) 5 62 16 49 08 entry into an online business phased out. The original off er Apparently the best time to register, ignore it! There are of €1,000 towards a new car call is fi rst thing in the morning, NO compulsory directory when the old one was scrapped and they may take a while to registrations and this is simply a was reduced to €700 at the answer but are very helpful when way of scamming money out of beginning of this year, dropped they do! new businesses! again in July to €500, and will be Always ask for a name as it is completely ‘scrapped’ by 2011. a small offi ce and you should be able to communicate with the Stamp price rises same person each time to save Stamp prices for letters Doctors and medicines repeating your situation over and delivered within France rose Fees for GPs go up in over and over…... at the beginning of July to January 2011, €22 to €23. You can also contact them on €0.58 for a ‘tarif prioritaire’ (fi rst Reimbursement for [email protected] class) and €0.53 for a ‘tarif prescription medicines will économique’ (second class). also be reduced. Medicines are reimbursed at diff erent rates, Spam….…. which are shown by the colour of From 2011, mobile the label. phone users in 15% Orange France will be Feeling lucky? 35% Blue able to protect French composer Edmond 65% White themselves from Audran was an unknown 100% Barred white spam phone call until he produced hit Your ‘mutuel’ or top up health such as unwanted production, La Mascotte, insure will reimburse a further voicemail in 1880, The opera, named amount depending on your messages or cold after a provincial French policy. callers by adding word for a witch, followed their number to an a central character who offi cial black-list. had such good luck On your bike… Spam voicemail that theatregoers were It may well become a legal messages and sure it had to come from requirement in France in the missed calls from 08 numbers, supernatural sources. As the future to wear a cycle helmet tempting the phone owner to show expanded throughout and fl uorescent jacket. As yet, call back at premium-rates can Europe, the title of the opera this is not law but has been already be reported by calling came to describe any object proposed in parliament. 33700 from your mobile. These or person bringing good messages can now be reported fortune 50 to know... Burning issues Chiminées

Fed up with trudging to the bottom of the garden la Gaieté du Feu in a stiff Tramontane to chop and heave beastie- TThehe RRegionsegions ridden logs from the woodpile to your fi replace? HHeatingeating StoveStove Similar in size to rabbit droppings, wood pellets EExpertsxperts are a clean, environmentally friendly, convenient fuel, mostly produced from sawdust and wood shavings, Specialists in compressed under high pressure, with no other Pellet Stoves additives. They may also be made from agricultural and Burners - An crop waste, waste paper, and other organic materials. attractive, cost The ash produced is rich in minerals and can be recycled to fertilise your garden. effi cient, clean The pellet burning stoves of today are chic and and ecological attractive, they can heat the whole house including way to heat hot water… and one ton of wood pellets has the your home. heat value of about 31/2 ‘stères’ To fi nd out more visit our showroom (cubic metres) of wood, stacking comfortably in a third of the space. 2480 Av Julien Panchot So… economical, space saving, KM 3, route de Thuir 66000 PERPIGNAN clean… yew wood be daft knot to! Oak ay! 04 68 54 13 33

Superbly renovated 3-bedroom stone townhouse with garden, in the centre of Perpignan. 235,000 euros.

51 Booklife... Absolutely Jane Mann! By Ellen Hall

Whether you just hopped off the plane in Perpignan or have roamed the region for the last 20 years, Jane Mann’s latest book - Absolutely Almost All You need to know about the Pyrénées Orientales* - is a delightful travelling companion full of up- to-the-minute and surprising information about the marvels of the region.

The department divides naturally into three mountain cave, Dali’s Polar Bear or the railway yard valleys and *AAAYNTKATPO follows the same at Cerbere. You are in the care of a playful and principle. Along the Tet you can zip through the sensitive travel companion. trees on a wire and discover your inner monkey, Did you know that the PO is home to the spanning the Tech you can fi nd a bridge built by biggest oak barrel, the smallest ski station, and the devil, and near the Agly you can lunch and sip the narrowest gorge in the world? Intrigued by a wine under a 300-year-old mulberry tree. mountain pasture of granite sheep? Curious about Here you will fi nd essential information for your the process of curing ham? Ever wonder how the own exploration. Place names are in BOLD print word “bistro” entered the language? In addition with Tourist Offi ce telephone numbers on the same Kate Hareng’s little-known facts, curious details and page for easy reference. At the end of each section French exercises, ensure that this guide is brimming you can test your French to see if you have been with insights and asides about language and paying attention! There is even an excursion across culture and how to navigate day-to-day encounters the border into Spain. in the region. With her light hand when it comes to history: Absolutely (not Almost) the best imaginable “Visigoths, Franks and Moors came and went”, Jane introduction to the PO. Buy it from your local puts you in the picture without weighing you down bookshop or from the FNAC online and enjoy (further reading is suggested in the bibliography.) making your own discoveries. Jane has lived, written and taken pictures in the region for over a decade and has visited every one It is available from most major Maisons of the places mentioned. No detail escapes her de la Presse and also from the FNAC on line. photographer’s eye, be it the view from La Rotja Delivery is free in France. 52 Specialists in Quality Interior Design, Renovation & Refurbishment of home, rental properties & businesses - Ensuring that your project is fi nished on budget, on time, every time

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www.design-deco.net 04 68 98 79 44 | 06 27 20 66 00 [email protected] Saint Genis Des Fontaines 53 P-OLife... Faire la A tongue in cheek look at kissing in France The French ‘bise’ can be slightly awkward for those who haven’t grown up with it. Hold out your hand, pucker up your lips….. and cross your fi ngers that the person you are being introduced to has some idea if the occasion merits a kiss or a shake! Oh, and keep your tongue fi rmly behind your teeth and your mouth closed so that if you do get it wrong, you don’t accidentally end up with your tongue rammed down their throat practicing another type of French kiss!

So are there any rules for ‘ze French keez’? Avoid any of this if you can get away with it Kind of… but not really, although some kind of during the fl u season! physical greeting is usually expected. If the ‘kissee’ is rather cute, Women kiss women (only ones they already have make up your own rules! a friendly relationship with of course. Don’t go And if you do get it wrong, it can be quite a good kissing the lady on reception at the dentist) ice breaker to start off with a good giggle! Men kiss women but shake hands with men (unless they are family or very close friends in We asked a few French friends to which case men kiss men) dish the dirt on their kissing habits! Children kiss everybody. The number of kisses varies from region to Roland, Calce « J’aime faire region, town to town, and even person to les bises, surtout aux femmes ! person, so don’t worry about etiquette. Ca m’arrive d’embrasser les Most people kiss from right to left hommes que j’aime bien et (ie your right cheek to their right cheek) de ma famille bien sur. Many people just touch cheek to cheek and ‘air Combien? J’en fais 4 à ceux kiss’, others will kiss properly on the cheek que j’aime et 2 aux autres

54 bise USEFUL VOCAB

Nelly, Porté Puymorens obligatoire Ceux que j’aime (Catalane de souche) compulsory those who I like Ca fait plaisir en famille, (Catalan) de Ca me soûle mais quand il y a souche (slang) beaucoup de monde, ça (Catalan) born and it does my head in me saoule un peu ! Les bred hommes ont de la chancee parce ququ’ils’ils Ca fait plaisir Faire la bise It’s nice.. peuvent serrer la main aux hommes. kiss on cheek. Combien ? J’en fais 2 Serrer la main Surtout shake hands especially Suzannah, Roses Une habitude On fait la bise toujours Ca m’arrive habit en famille et avec I do sometimes….. les amis. C’est une La joue - J’en fais 4 habitude, une marque cheek I give 4 (of them) d’aff ection. En Espagne on commence par la joueue gauchegauche. Combien ? En Espagne on en fait toujours 2.

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property Registered & Insured To discover more about how we can [email protected] help contact: Ruby Laura Goold +33 (0)4 68 98 03 24 06 38 73 15 62 hussellbuilding.com www.lesjoursheureux66.com 55 P-OLife... Year Round Service for Residents & Second Home Owners Garden Maintenance, Cleaning, Key Holding, Pool Cleaning & Testing, (All services available all Property Maintenance. year round) Vacation Services Contact Mark or Susan Burden Tel/Fax 04 68 51 80 46 or 06 09 61 58 33 Email: [email protected] No Siret 479 317 620 00025

SARL GICO Place du 14 Juillet 66320 Joch • Renovation • Construction • Refurbishments • Conversions • Interior Design • Decorative paint effects (Marmoline-Stucco-Lime)

[email protected] Tel/Fax 04 68 05 58 74 www.gico66.fr Mob 06 22 30 07 54

L E S de AL s 5 ON e 0 a t p ns lus

rs HORAIRES D’OUVERTURES 10 -11-12 Touriisme LLooiissiirs Vendredi de 14H à 19H 10 -11-12 SepSepttemembbrree Bien-être et santé Samedi de 10H à 19H Dimanche de 10H à 18H et prévoyance 2010 Epargne et prévoyance 2010 chnologieschnologies es TTee hone vveelllles glloph NNoouu e aang space t Es && occasionoccasion ittaat neuf Plus d’ infos sur www.bldeveloppement.com bbi Cars HaHa piing Cam 56 For owners of Second Homes: in the Perpignan and Coastal areas • Key Holding • Changeovers • Handyman Services for rental periods • Property Management and Maintenance • Pool Maintenance • Garden Maintenance Feel free to call Alan on: +33 .(0)6.33.06.51.55 [email protected]

57 P-OLife...

58 Prades and surrounding towns & villages Communes de stationnements: Vernet Les Bains - Casteil - Fuilla Taxi!! Ambulance : Los Masos04 - Prades68 area05 62 28 The drink-drive alcohol limit in France is only 0.5 The Airport milligrams of alcohol per litre of blood (around two small glasses of beer or one glass of wine) as Transfer opposed to the UK where the limit is 0.8. If you Specialists! are driving, it is better not to drink at all. Around 16% of injuries and 36% of fatal accidents in PERPIGNAN France are alcohol related. ARGELES Argeles Taxis - 04 68 81 09 11 GIRONA CANET AG Taxis - 04 68 61 18 93 Regular departures from CERET convenient locations : Jaukent Felix - 04 68 87 20 93 Collioure FONT ROMEU Argeles Sur Mer Altitude taxi - 06 22 86 85 40 Saint Cyprien PERPIGNAN Canet En Roussillon Accueil Perpignan Taxi - 04 68 35 15 15 Le Boulou PRADES A3 Cassoly - 04 68 05 62 28 04 68 80 69 98 or 06 87 70 29 32 THUIR www.perpicat.com Payre Thierry - 04 68 53 49 56

VVinylinyl GGraphicsraphics You’ve got the space - use it! PartoutP en France…. .fr.f simplifies le diagnostic automobile

appareils de diagnostic outillage atelier NNo outilso spéciauxminimummin dei marquesmum oordersinformationsrders techniquesququeue Particuliers, garagistes, centres de formation, chambress ded métiers, etc. wwww.blyth-spirit.comww.blyth-spirit.com 0044 6688 0055 8686 7171 Fast Free QQuotesuotes - CContactontact uuss 59 Route de Vinça, Vinça 66320 JOCH P-OLife... Who to contact in an Emergency SAMU (medical emergency) 15 Police emergency 17 Cancer Support France Fire service emergency 18 Support for English speaking European emergency line 112 cancer patients and their families Lutter Contre le Cancer en France Directory enquiries 118 008 tel: 04.68.69.01.37 International directory enquiries 118 700 International mastercard 08 00 90 13 87 Local weather forecast 08 36 68 02 66 GDF (gas problems) 08 10 43 30 66 EDF (electricity problems) 08 10 333 066 SOS Doctor 24/24 08 20 20 41 42 Emergency vet 04 68 55 55 83 Anti-poison centre 04 91 75 25 25 Perpignan hospital 04 68 61 66 33 CPAM (English spk serv) 0811 36 36 46 Cancer support France 04 68 69 01 37

You can use the The European emergency number 112 in any EU country from any telephone. You do not need a card or money to ring this number from a pay phone. 112 may also be used from a mobile to connect you with all emergency services.

P.CHARCOS & D. MARY

Private individual Private health insurance Enterprise Choice of several options Farmer Agents Généraux Allianz Professionnal Orias 07/021918 & 09/049586 Car, motor bike All types of guarantee proposed Prades 04 68 96 31 50 Vernet 04 68 05 30 89 [email protected] House insurance Rivesaltes 04 68 29 82 36 All kinds of residence

Fax : 04 68 96 61 07 www.allianz.fr/charcos Professional insurance Commercial premises and professional civil liability Contact Damien or Stéphanie for advice and solutions in English. 60 Ask us for free quotations ! P-O Life can be found at the following distribution points & many smaller ones. All main tourist offi ces Perpignan Airport Palais des Congrès Argelès: Carrefour Le Boulou: Expert, Leclerc, Intermarché Canet: Château Esparrou, Hyper Casino Cabestany: Asia Center , Mas Guerido Céret: Intermarché, Champion, Real Estates - see p2 Collioure: Château Royal Elne: Champion Ille sur Têt: Carrefour Market Laroque: Carrefour Market, Café des Artistes Perpignan: Leroy Merlin Pollestres: Intermarché Port Vendres: PV Immo Prades: Super U, Intermarché Pyrénées 2000: Casino Supermarket Thuir: Champion Trouillas: Cave de Trouillas Many of our advertisers also stock P-O Life, so remember to pick up a copy the next time you’re in their shop, offi ce or restaurant...

TO SUBSCRIBE TO P-O LIFE TODAY! It’s ONLY 25 EUROS - payment by French cheque made out to ANGLOPHONE DIRECT

Name (please print) ...... Address ...... Return to : P-O Life, Chemin du Mas Fourcade, 66480 Maureillas - France

61 Englishspeakingservices...

Architects Computer help & Maintenance Home/garden/decoration Ari Hantke Architecture .06 74 81 11 43 O.val services ...... 06 24 65 81 49 Andrew Watts Forestry ...04 68 87 34 85 www.ovalservices.fr Forestry and fencing - débrousaillage Bakeries Patrick Boyle ...... 04 68 87 17 35 Atout Kro- kitchens, tiles ....04 68 67 29 66 Cambounac - Céret ...... 04 68 87 14 69 Broadband installation, repairs, upgrades, advice www.les-alberes.net/systems/ Aubergine ...... 06 25 18 18 10 made to measure curtains, upholstery B & B - Hotels [email protected] Education & translation L’Andreu - Corsavy ...... 04 68 37 57 22 Design Deco ...... 04 68 98 79 44 Alfmed - Perpignan ...... 04 68 62 20 20 or ...... 06 27 20 66 00 Chalet de Bonheur - Formiguères ...... 06 83 75 67 47 Carole Howarth - Perpignan ...... Expert ...... 04 68 83 19 62 06 01 93 55 04 -electrical appliances Language training- [email protected] Builders La Gaieté du Feu ...... 04 68 54 13 33 Carole Cassoly - Prades area stove specialists Dave Taylor ...... 04 68 39 77 15 06 11 44 15 95 kitchens, bathrooms admin help / translation Garden Services ...... 06 34 68 16 19 stove specialists Done & Dusted ...... 04 68 84 55 36 O.val services ...... 06 27 94 40 64 Ian Rye - builder - Elne ...... 04 68 39 75 45 MSB Property Services ....04 68 51 80 46 [email protected] Practical Torredemer ...... 04 68 87 01 96 IGC - Camélas ...... 06 20 84 00 24 Shutters / blinds Leroy Merlin - DIY infos .....04 68 85 77 13 French lessons Vallespir Paysage ...... 06 12 99 25 52 gardens Phill Ward - Alberes ...... 04 68 89 15 60 kitchens/bathrooms - 06 37 16 40 69 [email protected] Individual/small groups Insurance AGF Céret - R. Estebe-Rigall ..06 43 80 73 51 P.O. Interiors ...... 06 72 42 07 04 St.Cyprien or at your home [email protected] SARL Gico ..04 68 05 58 74 /06 22 30 07 54 AXA - St Génis - Cô ...... 04 68 89 72 75 www.gico66.fr PromoLangues - Céret ...... 04 68 87 48 10 Allianz -Prades, Vernet, Rivesaltes Hussell Building...... 04 68 98 03 24 Sue Charnley...... 06 04 42 78 54 Language tuition and translation 04 68 96 31 50 www.hussellbuilding.com www.allianz.fr/charcos P.V. Construction ...... 04 68 82 12 46 Estate agencies Locksmith Roussillon Developpements Ltd Canigou Country ...... 04 68 96 08 01 Fiona Beazley ...... 06 77 74 47 15 Securicle ...... 06 23 69 46 81 English-builders-66.com 04 68 21 86 26 Loreto Immobilier ...... 04 68 82 05 70 Locked out ? Call us ! ( houses, cars.....) Ute LIEBSCHER ...... 04 68 84 55 27 Collioure [email protected] traditional plaster, all fi nishing [email protected] Med & Mountain Properties Opticians 04 68 56 54 22 Port-Vendres ...... 04 68 85 12 92 Catteries & Kennels www.medandmountain.com Le Palais Des Chats ...... 04 68 96 40 80 REAL Estates ...... 04 68 83 19 50 Plumbers/Electricians www.real-estates.fr ...... 06 16 60 37 15 Robert Morley ...... 04 68 83 38 54 www.lepalaisdeschats.com Zenith Sotheby’s ...... 04 68 57 73 14 www.morleyrenovation.eu VNelec - Stephan ...... 06 13 24 87 47 Cleaning services Health, Beauty and Fitness Blanchisserie du Moulin .04 68 39 30 18 Walter v.d. Hoogen ...... 06 25 24 00 81 Anya Gore (MAR, FFR, CertZB) English & Dutch speaking Electrician Laundry service Refl exology, Zero Balancing ...06 31 55 30 02 [email protected] Beauty Slim - Pollestres .....04 30 44 70 16 Pools Beauty Slim Fabienne - Shiatsu ...... 06 61 83 82 44 TPM ...... 06 75 46 93 65 Le Pavillon de Soie ...... 04 68 73 39 64 [email protected] 04 30 44 70 16 www.lepavillondesoie.com cleaning, maintenance, accessories Pollestres - Beauty Sam’s Salon ...... 04 68 29 78 74 treatments, slimming aids Vincent F...... 06 37 05 85 78 62 www.vincent-f.com Personalised exercise in your home Sport & Leisure Restaurants & Bars Sky TV installation Accro Quad & Velos 66 ...... 06 12 46 43 94 Chaudron Magique - Céret British TV in France ...... 04 68 69 83 76 ...... 04 68 35 24 95 04 68 87 40 84 06.82.10.55.35 www.accroquad.com www.british-tv-in-france.co.uk Auberge du Cedre ...... 04 68 37 25 84 Deversud ...... 04 68 34 46 58 www.aubergeducedre.fr Skydigi ...... 04 68 87 18 30 Indoor climbing wall Riberach ...... 04 68 64 59 78 Exterieur Organization ...04 68 05 72 12 www.riberach.com Transport www.exterieur-nature.com Auberge des Albères ...... 04 68 89 88 38 A3 Cassoly Taxis...... 04 68 05 62 28 Grande Stade ...... 04 68 21 01 33 www.auberge-des-alberes.com Prades and surrounding villages www.tourisme-saint-cyprien.com/ Le Vauban Restaurant ...04 68 51 05 10 Frogbus ...... www.frogbus.com Pyrenees Outdoor ...... 06 19 36 16 47 Nature & Gastronomie .. 04 68 59 00 38 Perpicat ...... 04 68 80 69 98 www.pyrenees-outdoor-sports.com www.perpicat.com Energym - Céret ...... 04 68 87 28 50 Yoga for Health - Céret .....04 68 22 72 94 Wine Riberach Cave, Hotel & Restaurant Print & design 04 68 50 30 10 www.riberach.com Blyth Spirit ...... www.blyth-spirit.com Vignerons Terres Romanes Canigou Creations ...... 04 68 05 86 71 04 68 96 54 96 or 04 68 05 85 86 Cave & Traditional Catalan produce Property & Project Management APS - [email protected] ....06 80 88 80 72 Keyholding,Cleaning,Maintenance Eve solution ...... 06 70 70 62 10 Port-Vendres TPM - Maureillas...... 06 75 45 93 65 www.tpm66.com Les Jours Heureux 66 ...... 06 38 73 15 62 www.lesjoursheureux.66.com Property Services 66 ...... 06 33 06 51 55 www.propertyservices.com MSB Property Services ...... 04 68 51 80 46 or 06 09 61 58 33 [email protected]

Removals Britannia Sandersteads 020 8669 6688 [email protected] Van with human ...... 06 3468 1619 throughout PO - [email protected] Britannia Sandersteads ADVERTISE IN OUR 00 44 (0)208 669 6688 DIRECTORY Fortnightly around France From ONLY 90 EUROS (HT) per year - contact Michelle on 06 12 22 23 70 Free quotes or email [email protected]

63 A professional team of qualifi ed craftsmen with over 20 years experience - at your service for all your renovation GENERAL RENOVATION projects

• Flooring • Kitchens & Bathrooms • Painting & Decorating • Plumbing We look forward • Electrical Work to being of help • Plastering www.igc-renovation.fr • Air Conditioning 66300 Camelas 0066 2200 8844 0000 2424 | 0606 1122 1144 3333 6699