DAVE ANDELMAN of “The Phantom Gourmet”

what to do • where to go • what to see

September 12–25, 2005 ThTheeeOfO Offficficiaiaiall GuidGuideeetot too BOSTBOSTONON

BostonBoston 375375@ 7Sure Signs the Hub is Growing Up

PLUS: > 5 DDesignerDeesisignegner JeaJeansns BarBargainsgains ALL NEW > OyOysterster ShuShuckingShucking fforor CharCharityityity NEIGHBORHOOD > ThThee PhPhaantntoomm GouGourmrmeet’t’ss SECTIONS… Secrets ReRevealedled AND MORE! wwwwww.pano.panoramamagazine.comramamagazine.com contents

THE ULTIMATE COVER STORY ITALIAN ART OF CREATING

6 around the hub 6 news & notes 14 dining 10 kids corner 16 nightlife 12 on exhibit 18 style

27 the hub directory 28 current events 60 freedom trail 37 clubs & bars 62 shopping 40 museums & galleries 68 restaurants 46 maps 81 NEIGHBORHOODS 52 sightseeing

94 5 questions with… DAVE ANDELMAN of “The Phantom Gourmet”

on the cocover:ver: The I.M. Pei-designed John Hancock Tower in picturesque Copley Square stands as a testament to Boston’Boston’ss modermodernn spirit. TOWER OF POWER: Photo: johnsavone.com APPASSIONATA The Custom House in downtown COLLECTION Boston was the city’s first skyscraper. Refer to feature story, page 20. D AVE A NDELMAN PHOTO BY Y EHESHUA J OHNSON___ SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 3 The Official Guide to BOSTON www.panoramamagazine.com

September 12–25, 2005 Volume 55 • Number 9

Jerome Rosenfeld • CHAIRMAN Tim Montgomery • PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER

Christine Celli • EDITOR Scott Roberto • ART/PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Josh B. Wardrop • ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sharon Hudak Miller • ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Christopher Wallenberg • STAFF WRITER Marketa Hulpachova • EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

Jacolyn Ann Firestone • VICE PRESIDENT, ADVERTISING Rita A. Fucillo • DIRECTOR OF MARKETING AND PUBLIC RELATIONS Heather S. Burke, Tyler Montgomery • ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Peter Ng • INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY MANAGER Melissa J. O’Reilly • BUSINESS MANAGER

PANORAMA is published bi-weekly by Jerome Press Publications Inc. Editorial and advertising offices at 332 Congress Street, Boston, MA 02210. Telephone (617) 423- 3400. Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission of the publisher.

PANORAMA is a member of the Massachusetts Lodging Association, The Back Bay Association, The Greater Boston Chamber of Commerce, The Greater Boston Convention and Visitors Bureau, Cambridge Chamber of Commerce, the Greater Boston Concierge Association, the Harvard Square Business Association, the Newbury Street League and the Downtown Crossing Association.

PANORAMA is audited by BPA Worldwide, an independent audit bureau recognized by the American Association of Advertising Agencies.

a magazine affiliate

______4 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 5 Beat the Heat and aroundtheby Christinehub Celli & Josh B. Wardrop Have Some FUN this Summer!!! news¬es

™

The hilarious celebration of women and The Change!

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Men Love It Too!!!

Happy Birthday, Dear Boston… SIZZLIN’ ard to believe, considering the Hub doesn’t look a day over 374, but the City of Boston “YOU’LL SUMMER SALE! Hhas spent Summer 2005 celebrating its 375th birthday, with a host of events boasting the best music, dance, culture and entertainment options the city has to offer. LOVE IT. IT’S $7.50 OFF On September 25, the summer of revelry comes to a show-stopping close with a series of PER TICKET* planned events that include a parade through the streets of Boston into—we think—City HILARIOUS. *Must mention code MMSIZZLE. Hall Plaza. A family-oriented musical concert and an evening fireworks display at GO SEE IT!” Limit 4 tix. Not valid for previously Christopher Columbus Waterfront Park are expected to follow. purchased tickets, already discount ed seats or any other offer - According to Tony Nunziante, a spokesman for the Mayor’s office of Arts & Tourism, final . Valid for - Joy Behar, The View all shows. Offer expires 09/04/05. elements of the celebration (such as performers, locations and times of events) are now nearly finalized. He told Panorama that visitors to Boston can get up to the minute details aying! by visiting the Boston 375 Web site (www.cityofboston.gov/boston375) or by calling the Now Pl Boston 375 hotline at 617-635-B375. cont. on page 8 >>

news & notes 6 • kids corner 10 • on exhibit 12 • STUART STREET PLAYHOUSE dining 14 • nightlife 16 • style 18 FOR TIX 800-447-7400 OR AT BOX OFFICE WINDOW ___ 200 Stuart Street at the Radisson Hotel Boston | www.menopausethemusical.com 6 PANORAMA around the hub NEWS & NOTES

survived commercial development of the neighborhood calendar of events around it, changing trends in the Boston bar scene and FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16 the advent of modern build- Today through September 25 at the ing codes. Wang Theater, the internationally beloved David Epstein, president Riverdance returns to Boston. Seen by of the Abbey Group, told The millions around the globe, Riverdance— Boston Globe that his compa- now in its 10th year—remains a specta- ny would be interested in cle of color and movement that will have preserving “some semblance audience tapping their toes en masse. of The Littlest Bar,” although Refer to listing, page 36. no explanation as to how they would do that was given. MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 19 Refer to listing, page 38. Tonight, at Morton’s Steakhouse, children’s literacy project ReadBoston hosts a benefit unveiling Fenway Fiction: Short Stories from the Red Sox Nation, a compilation of fiction works by novelists, SILVER LINE WORTH playwrights and ardent Sox fans. Refer to listing, page 34. ITS WEIGHT IN GOLD While we at Panorama are WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21 never in a hurry to usher vis- Experience the passion and tragedy of itors to Boston out of town, George Bizet’s operatic masterwork, we realize some of you Carmen, at Cambridge’s American would love quick and easy Repertory Theater through September public transportation 25, produced in collaboration with the options to Logan Airport. Theatre de la Jeune Lune of Minnesota. NEW DIGS FOR BAR CLOSING NO << cont. attract larger audiences, and This summer, the opening of Refer to listing, page 35. NEW REP SMALL LOSS from page 6 ultimately grow its already Silver Line service from After toiling for acclaimed artistry. “Being in They say that little things South Station and the water- FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 23 years in a cramped, unortho- our old space was holding us mean a lot, and that was front has offered just that. If you want your guffaws preserved for dox facility in the sleepy back as a company from our certainly proven true by the Beginning in June, the posterity, pay a visit to The Comedy enclave of Newton, the Elliot next stage of growth,” says outpouring of sadness that MBTA introduced Silver Line Studio in Cambridge tonight and tomor- Norton Award-winning New artistic director Rick The Littlest Bar—a curious service, in which large capac- row for a chance to become part of leg- Repertory Theatre embarks Lombardo (pictured above). 38-seat pub and fixture on ity buses ferry passengers endary Boston comedian DJ Hazard’s on a much-anticipated “Even though the Boston Province Street near from points near the water- show, which is being recording for an chapter in its history with a media treated [us] as one of Downtown Crossing for six front directly to all Logan ter- upcoming comedy CD. Refer to listing, marquee move to a 380-seat the major players of the decades—will close later minals. The buses depart page 28. theater at the new Arsenal Boston theater scene, there this year. every 10 minutes from South Center for the Arts in were still a lot of people who According to published Station between 7 a.m. and 8 SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 24 Watertown.The space will be didn’t know about us or did- reports, The Littlest Bar will p.m., and every 15 minutes All the way from South Africa comes cho- inaugurated with a play that n’t even know where Newton reluctantly shut its doors by after 8 p.m. and on weekends. reographer Vincent Mantsoe, who per- could never have been staged Highlands was.”The new the- December, making way for The MBTA hopes to even- forms a solo recital tonight and tomorrow in the old, church basement ater, for those still not in the real estate developers The tually extend Silver Line air- at Zero Arrow Theater in Cambridge. space—Romeo and Juliet, know, is a short drive from Abbey Group to build 150 port service as far as down- Acclaimed worldwide for his work fusing which opens September 18. Harvard Square and accessi- condominium units. With town Boston, but have cur- African and Asian dance forms together, The move more than doubles ble by the MBTA via the 70 or the bar’s closing, the city rently shelved further expan- Mantsoe presents the Boston debut of his the company’s seating capac- 70a bus from Central Square. will lose a durable piece of sion plans while they look to works Motswa Hole and NDAA. Refer to ___ ity, allowing New Rep to Refer to listing, page 36. its social history—a bar that address community concerns. listing, page 29. ___ 8 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 5–18, 2005 9 around the hub KIDS CORNER Horsing kids Around calendar

CAVALIA Suffolk Downs Through September 18

hat do Wcow- boys and acrobats ravel the have in com- T mon? Generally not much, but now they’re sharing star- ring roles in Cavalia: A Magical Encounter Between Multiple screenings daily seven seas. Horse and Man, the new show by the co-founders of Bugs! at the Museum of Science Quebec’s famed Cirque du Soleil. After more than a year For kids who think bugs are cool, No nautical on the west coast, Cavalia gallops into Boston at Suffolk especially at a distance, this 3-D Downs. Given Cirque’s reputation for spectacular reali- journey into their creepy crawly experience ty-defying feats, Cavalia promises to evoke gasps and world packs just enough punch. provide thrills as it celebrates the strong physical and Refer to listing, page 41. required. emotional ties between animal and human. With mind- boggling tricks featuring horses, artists, riders, acrobats, September 17 aerialists and dancers, Cavalia is sure to make audi- Curious George’s Birthday at the ences cheer until they’re (ahem) hoarse. Refer to listing, Boston Public Library page 23. —Micheline Frias The mischievious monkey hosts a birthday bash with a book sale, signings and celebratory bananas. VIVE LA Refer to listing, page 30. FRANCE September 18 BABAR’S Boston Marathon Jimmy Fund Walk WORLD TOUR Participants follow the storied French Library and Cultural Center Boston Marathon course to raise September 24 from 10 money to fight cancer in children. a.m.–12:30 p.m. Refer to listing, page 34. Babar must be one AQUARIUM - Discover 18,000 aquatic animals representing 500 species. tired elephant to be September 25 launching a world Boston by Little Feet WHALE WATCH -Glimpse the world’s largest mammals aboard our renowned vessel. tour at his age. Explore the Freedom Trail on this SIMONS IMAX® THEATRE-Unravel ocean mysteries in IMAX 3D on the region’slargest screen. Since his character debuted in 1931, he’s been the subject tour designed for walkers ages It’s all on Boston’s waterfront, just steps from Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market. of 33 children’s books, not to mention several TV shows. 6–12. Refer to listing, page 56. And on September 24, the French Library and Cultural www.newenglandaquarium.org • Call 617-973-5200 Center is welcoming the famous pachyderm’s creator Ongoing Laurent de Brunhoff for a family-friendly event, including a Slither Inn at the photo op with Babar’s “little” lady Celeste. There will also Franklin Park Zoo be a special presentation, story time and the chance to Check out the zoo’s newest have your books signed by the author. And better yet, it’s habitat for snakes of all sizes. all free! Call 617-912-0400 for more information. Refer to listing, page 58. ___ IMAX is a registered trademark of IMAX Corporation. PROUDLY SPONSORED BY TOP LEFT PHOTO BY F REDERIC C HEHU 10 PANORAMA around the hub ON EXHIBIT by Scott Roberto art happenings

The Camera Eye September 17 & 18 ANSEL ADAMS onservationist, teacher, piano player— South End Open Studios Museum of Fine Arts CAnsel Adams (1902–1984) was all of this Local artists in this hip neighbor- Through December 31 and more. He was best known, however, as hood open their studios to the the creator of some of the most iconic, unforgettable pho- public for this 19th annual event. tographs of the American West ever captured. This is made Refer to listing, page 33. abundantly clear at the comprehensive retrospective of Adams’ career on display at the Museum of Fine Arts. September 18 From his famous scenic shots, such as the one above, to Harvard Museums Community Day rare portraits and cityscapes, this display of nearly 200 This 3rd annual event allows visi- photographs covers the depth and breadth of the work tors into all six Harvard museums that revolutionized a medium. Refer to listing, page 41. for free, as well as offering special tours and children’s programs. WORDS & Refer to listings, page 42. PICTURES September 20 TATS CRU at MIT ART SPIEGELMAN Peabody Essex Museum The pioneering, Bronx-based September 20 grafitti artists give a free lecture Those who dismiss as part of the university’s comics as a Abramowitz Artist-in-Residence disposable art Program. Refer to listing, page 34. form have probably never read the September 23 work of cartoonist Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum Art Spiegelman. A new exhibit, Variations on a Winner of the Theme by Sol Le Witt and Paula Pulitzer Prize in Robison, opens. Refer to listing, 1992 for his Holocaust chronicle Maus, the former New page 40. Yorker staff member appears at the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem as part of its month-long remem- September 24 brance of the tragedy of 9/11. Spiegelman discusses his Great Glass Pumpkin Patch latest graphic novel, In the Shadow of No Towers, which The MIT Glass Lab features more recounts his thoughts and feelings as a witness and than 1,000 hand-blown glass survivor of that horrific day in Manhattan four years ago. pumpkins (pictured above) for ___ Refer to listing, page 43. sale. Refer to listing, page 34. TOP LEFT: ANSEL A DAMS, M OONRISE, HERNANDEZ, NEW M EXICO, 1941; 12 PANORAMA ABOVE LEFT IMAGE © ART S PIEGELMAN, COURTESY OF THE PEABODY E SSEX M USEUM around the hub DINING by Christine Celli high fives

YOU SAY TOMATO For some, the essence of summer is a supple, juicy tomato. Enjoy an end-of-summer fling for your taste buds at these local restaurants.

Clams for a Cause 1. VIA MATTA, 79 Park Plaza, OYSTER SHUCKING ith oyster season already in full swing, we 617-422-0008. Local tomatoes EVENING FOR MDA Whardly need another excuse to eat the suc- cooked with garlic and basil, then McCormick & Schmick’s culent bivalves. But local oysters are so good this mixed with dried bread, make the Seafood Restaurant Faneuil Hall Marketplace time of year, and it’s for charity, so secure a free pappa al pomodoro soup a September 27 at 6 p.m. seat at McCormick & Schmick’s Oyster Shuck-off delightful tomato-y creation. and watch as shells fly. Staffers from the seafood 2. TEATRO, 177 Tremont St., 617- hotspot as well as Durgin-Park, Kingfish Hall and The Salty Dog 778-6841. Enjoy the sophisticated crack them open by the dozen for the title of “Best Schucker,” simplicity of an heirloom caprese while a raffle and auction is held to raise money for the Muscular salad with fresh mozzarella, basil, Dystrophy Association. The public can even test their skills in aged balsamic vinaigrette and sea salt, the Harpoon Beer shucking contest. Just a tip: drinking the beer available only during tomato season. will only slow you down. For reservations, call 617-720-5230. 3. BAMBARA, 25 Edwin H. Land SPICE IT UP Blvd., Cambridge, 617-868-4444. The golden tomato gazpacho lets SPICE OF THE MONTH spicy rock shrimp ceviche mingle CLUB: FENUGREEK with opal basil and is a cool refresh- Tamarind Bay, 75 Winthrop St., Cambridge, 617-491-4552 ing dish for a warm summer evening. September 12 from 5–7 p.m. 4. EXCELSIOR, 272 Boylston St., One of the best things about 617-426-7878. Wood-roasted heir- Indian cuisine is how it utilizes loom tomatoes with garlic, thyme, a wide variety of savory sea- olive oil and grilled zucchini, then sonings that reach far beyond rolled in ricotta cheese, fresh basil the realm of salt and pepper. and parmesan, make zucchini and Tamarind Bay, a recent addition to the Indian dining scene ricotta lasagna something special. that’s garnered much approval from foodies and critics alike, is inviting diners to get up-close and personal with the flavors 5. SPIRE, 90 Tremont St., 617- that make the cuisine so delightful through its Spice of the 772-0202. The heirloom tomato Month club dinners. On September 12, fenugreek seed tasting lets tomato lovers nibble a acts as the central ingredient for a four-course dinner that tomato, basil and chevre salad, sip includes a discussion with executive chef Wali Ahmad. The tomato consomme and munch on a meal costs $25 per person and diners take home a spice tomato club sandwich. ___ sampler and recipes. For reservations, call 617-491-4552. —Katrina Scanlan 14 PANORAMA around the hub NIGHTLIFE by Josh B. Wardrop Instant Night Out

Boston DAVIS SQUARE might be a He’s Still Standing Somerville September 24 ways from ELTON JOHN residents come and go, political dicta- Mexico, From historic New England TD Banknorth Garden Ptorships rise and fall, and Sir Elton but that doesn’t mean you can’t September 16 & 17 John releases new music…it’s the have a great night out in Beantown to a breathtaking world inevitability of time itself. Forty years into his musical with some south-of-the-border flair. of art and culture career, everybody’s favorite Rocket Man is touring in sup- 1. Take the MBTA Red Line to port of his latest effort, 2004’s Peachtree Road. While Davis Square in Somerville, and Elton hasn’t produced a “Your Song” recently, his creativi- start your evening off with delec- ty and showmanship remain second to none when he table Mexican fare at Picante experience steps onstage. Come for “Levon” and “Crocodile Rock,” but Mexican Grill (217 Elm St., 617- stay for a chance to marvel at one of the last true rock 628-6394). Picante serves Mexican Peabody Essex Museum immortals. Refer to listings, page 32. favorites, but with twists—like portabello mushroom enchiladas, Journey through New England’s grand and storied PARTY zucchini quesadillas and lower fat, past at the stunning Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, ANIMALS oil and salt content in all dishes. Massachusetts. Explore the region’s legendary 2. Next, head to the nearby connections to the art and culture of Asia, Oceania, Somerville Theatre (55 Davis Africa, India, and more. A WILD AFFAIR CENTENNIAL Square, 617-625-5700) for a Make a day of it. Experience PEM’s unrivaled collections, CELEBRATION concert by Mexican-American special exhibitions, interactive idea center for families, Stone Zoo September 24 vocalist Lila Downs (pictured the award-winning Museum Shop and Garden above) at 8 p.m. Downs is known Restaurant, plus the world-famous Yin Yu Tang, a Ever wonder how for combining traditional Mexican 200-year-old Chinese merchant’s home brought here the animals in the folk music with elements of Afro- from China.* All in the historic, uniquely captivating seaport city of Salem. zoo relax when the Cuban funk, blues and jazz. zoo gates close? 3. Finally, end the evening at the For information, call 866-745-1876 Get a private authentic hidden gem Tu Y Yo or visit pem.org glimpse of the animals’ downtime during A Wild Affair, a spe- (858 Broadway, 617-623-5411), Open daily 10 am–5 pm cial centennial benefit celebration for the Stone Zoo in near- to indulge in a refreshing glass or by Stoneham. Your $35 entrance fee entitles you to food two of their special sangria, or tastings from local restaurants, a chance to bid in the silent treat yourself to their decadent East India Square | Salem, Massachusetts 01970 USA auction, and a nighttime tour of the Stone Zoo—including family recipe flan—caramel

animal encounters with certain cool critters who’ll be brought custard enhanced with tasty * Timed tickets are required for the Chinese house. Advance reservations advised. Call TicketWeb at 866-468-7619 or go online to www.ticketweb.com. ___ out to meet their guests! Refer to listing, page 59. cinnamon cream. 16 PANORAMA

around the hub STYLE by Marketa Hulpachova

Discount Browse the boutiques, Denim explore the department stores, then have lunch and relax, because you know… there’s always. In anticipation of back-to-school season, retailers have more than THE BASEMENT. doubled their jean supply, creating a Filene’s Basement has an incredible glut of denim at not-to-be-missed selection of women’s & men’s Living the Good Life prices. Take advantage of the mark- fashions from world-renowned ost of us never viewed the stick downs at these local hot spots. European & American LIFE IS GOOD figures we drew on our desks in M ANTHROPOLOGIE, 799 Boylston 283 Newbury St. grade school as marketable, but Bert and 1. designers, at 30%-60% off 617-262-5068 St., 617-262-0545. The discount John Jacobs, founders of Life is Good, have department store prices rack at this Back Bay entity offers up made a whole career out of them. Characterized by ...everyday. to 40% off select knits such as Joes, colorful, all-natural materials and a versatile stick Red Engine, Salt and Louie. figure logo named Jake, this casual clothing company has recently unveiled its first Boston store. A new line 2. BLOOMINGDALE’S, 55 of t-shirts, pajamas, sweats, and loungewear to curl up Boylston St., Chestnut Hill, 617- in, just in time for fall? Life is good, indeed. 965-1550. Bloomie’s is giving the world yet another reason to get up GIRLS JUST WANNA HAVE FUN early on Saturday. September 17 is Jean Day—all full-priced jeans are LADIES NIGHT 20% off when you buy two pairs. Jorge Hernandez Cultural Center 3. JASMINE SOLA, 344 Newbury September 22 St., 617-867-4636; other locations. This boutique has heaps of designer Conformity can be duds like Miss Sixty, Juicy Couture comfortable, but and Frankie B. (pictured above) for sometimes a girl half price. needs to spice things up a bit. To that end, 4. NEIMAN MARCUS, 5 Copley we suggest Ladies Night, a party combining art, fashion, Pl., 617-536-3660. Cropped, entertainment and, of course, shopping. Held September 22 stretch, straight-leg, boot-cut— at 7 p.m. at the Jorge Hernandez Cultural Center (85 W. this ubiquitous department store Newton St., 617-927-0061), the 18+ event features over 30 abounds with discounted jeans, like vendors selling everything from handmade jewelry to James Cured by Seun, now 50% off. homemade chocolate. Add in a cash bar, a fashion show URBAN OUTFITTERS, 11 JFK and a sensual performance by Through the Keyhole 5. St., Cambridge, 617-864-0070; Burlesque, and you’ve got a fun event for women of all other locations. Urban compliments ages. And singletons rejoice—event coordinator Honah Lee its eclectic garments with jean exclusive designer fashions Milne says “A good number of men usually show up to brands like Lux and BDG, both ...at surprisingly low prices check out the intelligent and creative women [who attend].” marked down by 20%. Visit www.thehonahlee.com for more info. ___ BOSTON NEW YORK CHICAGO ATLANTA WASHINGTON, DC TOP LEFT AND RIGHT PHOTOS BY M ARKETA H ULPACHOVA; 18 PANORAMA BOTTOM LEFT PHOTO COURTESY OF THE HONAHLEE. COM

Boston 375 As Boston celebrates its big 375th anniversary, Panorama looks at seven big and small ways the city has changed NIGHT AND DAY: The by Josh B. Wardrop Custom@ House, Boston’s first skyscraper, stands in sharp contrast to the John Hancock Tower, the city’s—and New England’s—tallest skyscraper. I’LL SEE YOUR CUSTOM HOUSE, 1AND RAISE YOU A JOHN HANCOCK When the 30-story tower of the Boston Custom House was built in 1915, giving the city its first skyscraper, Bostonians would have scoffed at the prospect of anything taller. And for almost 50 years, they’d be right.Then the 750-foot high Prudential Tower came on the scene in 1964 and took over the top spot on the Boston skyline. Today, though, they’re both trumped by the I.M. Pei-designed John Hancock Tower , built in 1976, which stands 62 stories high. Sure, at 788 measly feet tall it’s only 71st in the world, but here in Boston, it’s #1.

WOMEN NO LONGER “LOCKED” OUT OF 2LEGENDARY RESTAURANT It’s served up gourmet cuisine and favored New England fare to Boston bluebloods and foreign dignitaries for 130 years, but there was at least one dining demographic all but ignored by Boston’s ritzy Locke-Ober restaurant until 1971— women. As recently as 35 years ago, the downstairs dining area at Locke-Ober was off-limits to the fairer sex. Today, Locke-Ober’s come a long way, baby. Not only are women welcome to break sweetbreads with their male counterparts, but they’ve got one of their own calling the shots at the venerable eatery. Legendary chef, culinary innovator and restauran- teur Lydia Shire (Biba, Excelsior) became co-owner of Locke-Ober in 2001, and today she determines what gets served in a dining room where, decades ago, she would not ___ have been allowed to set foot. 20 PANORAMA

That reputation leads A WHOLE NEW Bostonians to bring friends and BALLGAME relatives from far and wide to 3 soak in the experience. Victoria Raineri, 27, plans to eventually take her friend Jessica Manhood, 26, recently trans- planted from Wisconsin, to Game On, but said, “I wanted her [to come here] first. If you want to see the Sox scene, you want to come to the Cask.” Even a visitor from “enemy” territory—Paul LeGoss from A Red Sox World Series victory and a record- setting comeback against the Yankees changed one Fenway rivalry forever. Will the arrival of new club Game On spark another? Last year some- Flagon, a favorite of the Fenway Faithful thing nearly for more than three decades. Brooklyn, N.Y.—seemed comfort- unthinkable hap- The upscale Game On is really two sepa- able at the Cask during a July pened: after an epic 86- rate entities in one. The upstairs primarily Yankees-Red Sox game. While year drought, the Boston Red Sox functions as a restaurant, serving a menu of hardcore Sox fans are known to won the World Series. As life-changing as brick oven pizzas, grilled entrees, appetizers be extremely vocal, LeGoss that was for Sox fans, most would argue the and sandwiches. Downstairs, the space more noted that “Everyone’s been chill best part was that the Olde Towne Team closely resembles a nightclub—dark and sleek, so far.” Still, LeGoss couldn’t staged the greatest come- lit by generous amounts of neon. However, the help but comment, “They really back in baseball history plethora of TVs—big and small screens, high- do take the game too seriously.” PLAY BALL: Fans stream against the hated New York Game On has the edge as far down Brookline Street on their definition, on the wall, and all around the bar— way to a game (top); Sox and Yankees along the way. It ensure you won’t miss a moment of the game. as peeping the celebrities that Yanks fans peacefully co-exist was the beginning of a shift flood the ballpark when the outside Gate E (above inset); The Cask ’n’ Flagon, in contrast, is a fans lounge at the new Game On in what was considered the wood-paneled, traditional sports bar that Yankees come to town. One (top right) and the old-school traditional balance of one would imagine looks much the same as night during that same July Cask ’n’ Flagon (bottom right). power, making for perhaps it did when it opened in 1969, as Oliver’s. series, famous faces enjoying a the biggest change that’s The walls, adorned with photos of Hub hard- pre-ballgame nosh included ex- happened to Boston in 375 years. (Well, right ball heroes like Carl Yastrzemski, Ted Sox slugger Sam Horn, PBS cooking show chain of non-partisan sports-themed restau- after the American Revolution, the rise of Williams and Carlton Fisk, give the Cask a star Ming Tsai and Fever Pitch and rants which the cable network operates in modern industry and all that jazz, anyway.) sense of history amidst the still somewhat Kingpin filmmaking siblings Bobby and cities throughout the country. With Red Sox tickets now harder to come incredulous joy of Sox fans following that Peter Farrelly. Another patron was more blunt. “I really by than ever, many visitors to Boston find long-awaited World Series win. It remains to be seen, however, if wouldn’t consider it a sports bar,” said Peter themselves looking for alternative venues to For longtime fans, the Cask’s history as a hardcore Sox fans will embrace Game On Reuell, 30, of Newton, comparing the atmos- check out the vaunted Sox-Yankees rivalry. Sox hotspot has made it a local landmark the way generations have the Cask ’n’ phere at Game On to more of a “meat mar- And just outside Fenway Park, a pair of and a rite of passage of sorts. James White, Flagon. Andrew Lalime, 33, of Watertown ket,” before adding, “It needs to be a little prime options present themselves: the 21, of Randolph, said that “I would walk by seemed let down by the newer bar’s lack of grittier. When I go to a sports bar, I expect brand-new Game On and, across the when I was a kid going to a game and a strong Red Sox identity. “It seems sort of sawdust on the floor and a bartender with ___ street, the venerable old Cask ‘n’ always wanted to go in.” like an ESPNZone,” he said, referencing the one eye.” ___ PHOTOS BY J OEL M EDINA 22 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 23

COD FORBID: BOSTON’S THE “BANNED” PLAYED ON FOOD SCENE GROWS UP 4 6The concept of “Banned in Boston” really began with Blame it on our English ancestors—for centuries, Boston the first Bostonians, the Puritans, who—in addition to cuisine operated under the motto the blander, the better, cracking down on all the usual vices—actually made with nothing on local menus but codfish, brown bread celebrating Christmas illegal from 1659–1681, because and baked beans…eventually a city reaches its breaking it reminded them of the hated Church of England. point. Today, Boston is known for a vibrant and diverse din- The “Banned in Boston” movement picked up ing scene, and for having turned out some of the nation’s most steam in the late 19th and early 20th century when recognizable celebrity chefs. It started in the 1960s with our the Watch and Ward Society and social reformer adopted doyenne of the delectable, Julia Child, and nowadays, Anthony Comstock found Bostonians unusually internationally known chefs such as Todd English, Ming Tsai, Jackie Robert, receptive to their mission of stamping out “smutty” Gordon Hamersley, Jasper White and others still call Boston their home base. books, films and plays—shutting down and running out of town many a stage performer and theater owner in the process. Today, though, Boston's finally achieved modera- tion in its quest for morality, and we're thought of as a socially progressive city yet again. Getting a tattoo, for example, was taboo from 1962 until 2000, when Massachusetts finally repealed the ordinance against inking, granting Fat Ram’s Pumpkin Tattoo in Jamaica Plain the first of many tattooing licenses. In 2003, liquor stores that were once only allowed to be open on Sundays around holidays were permitted Sunday operation year-round. And one can only imagine what members of the Watch and Ward Society would have had to say about last year’s historic legalization of same-sex marriage. Luckily for those who enjoy freedom of choice, precious little is “Banned in Boston” anymore.

PHOTO BY DEREK KOUYOUMJIAN PHOTO BY DEREK KOUYOUMJIAN

BEN FRANKLIN, THERE GOES THE MEET BEN AFFLECK NEIGHBORHOOD

5 TION 7 Boston’s proud of its No, we don’t consider it big news that the prominent place in our neighborhoods in Boston look different than OUNDA

nation’s history, and for close F they did 375 years ago. However, some of to 50 years visitors have had Boston’s boroughs have undergone significant RAIL

the opportunity to walk a red T changes from even a couple decades ago. In painted line and educate Kenmore Square in the 1970s and themselves by visiting some 1980s, a big night out meant ducking into REEDOM

of our most important his- F Cornwall’s for a brew, then pogoing next door toric sites on The to “The Rat” for some quality punk rock. Now, THE . the Kenmore area is in the midst of a renova-

Freedom Trail © However, in this day and age, tion focused around the new Hotel Commonwealth, its cute boutique shops, and trendy, upscale the thirst for knowledge extends to subjects that move beyond the Revolutionary War and the restaurants like Great Bay and Eastern Standard. Meanwhile, most locals over the age of 30 can Bill of Rights. These days, people also want to know where “Ally McBeal” and Good Will remember coming to Downtown Crossing with their mom to visit Jordan Marsh and Filene’s. Hunting were filmed. Enter the Boston Movie Tour, established earlier this year, Today, both Jordan Marsh and Filene’s have been swallowed by Macy’s, perhaps paving the way which takes participants on a tour of movie and TV locations within the city of Boston. for a modern chain (Target? Wal-Mart?) to take up residence in the spot where many a first doll, ___ History or Hollywood, past or future, Boston has inquiring minds covered. interview suit or prom dress was purchased. ___ 24 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 25

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thehubdirectory OUR GUIDE TO WHAT TO DO, SEE, BUY AND EAT IN BOSTON index CURRENT EVENTS 28

CLUBS & BARS 37

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES 40

MAPS 46

SIGHTSEEING 52

FREEDOM TRAIL 60

SHOPPING 62

RESTAURANTS 68

NEIGHBORHOODS 81

TOWERING ABOVE: At 62 stories, the heralded, I.M. Pei-designed John Hancock Tower dominates its Copley Square locale, not to mention Boston’s skyline. Refer to

C listing, page 55. M Y K

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CURRENT EVENTS Boston’s annual comedy showcase. Visit www.bostoncom- JIMMY TINGLE’S OFF BROADWAY, 255 Elm St., Davis SNAPPY SOUTH(END) MOVE, Snappy Dance Theater, edyfestival.com for a complete schedule of events. Square, Somerville, 617-591-1616. Call for reservations and Wimberly Theatre, Calderwood Pavilion at the Boston Center complete schedule. Founded by comic, actor and writer for the Arts, 527 Tremont St., 617-933-8600. Performances THE COMEDY CONNECTION, Quincy Market, Faneuil Hall Jimmy Tingle, this multi-use venue features both established Sep 14–18: Wed & Thu at 7 p.m., Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 3 and Marketplace, 617-248-9700. Cover and times may vary. and aspiring performers. Thu–Sat at 7:30 p.m.—Jimmy 8 p.m., Sun at 3 p.m. Tickets: $25–40. Just back from a per- Call for full schedule. Named “The Best Comedy Club in Tingle’s American Dream, tickets: $15–25; seniors formance in St. Petersburg, Russia, Snappy Dance presents the Country” (USA Today), this venue has featured national $13.50–22.50; students $7.50–12.50; Sep 17 at 3 p.m.— the world premiere of its latest work and classic pieces

and local stand-up acts such as Wendy Liebman, Chris Cleavage, tickets: $15; seniors $13.50; students $7.50; Sep including Glory Hole, inspired by the art of glass blowing. curr Rock, Rosie O’Donnell and Dave Chappelle. Tickets: 19 at 7:30 p.m.—Comedy for Cambridge Forum: My Jimmy $12–40. Sep 12 & 19 at 8 p.m.—Amateur Showcase Senses are Tingling, a benefit show, tickets: $25 & 50. ZERO ARROW THEATRE, Arrow Street and Massachusetts hosted by Kevin Knox; Sep 13 & 20 at 8 p.m.—Paul Avenue, 617-876-4275. Performances Sep 23–25: Fri at 7:30 Nardizzi; Sep 14 at 8 p.m.—Mike McDonald; Sep 15 & NICK’S COMEDY STOP, 100 Warrenton St., 617-423-2900. Fri p.m., Sat at 8 p.m., Sun at 3 p.m. Tickets: $30. South African ents

22 at 8:30 p.m.—Frank Santos “The R-Rated Hypnotist”; & Sat at 8:45 p.m. Cover: $15. Nick’s is the city’s longest-run- choreographer and dancer Vincent Mantsoe presents the ent e

v Sep 16 & 17 at 8 and 10:15 p.m.—3 Blonde Moms, fea- ning comedy club. Sep 15—Kevin Knox; Sep 16 & 17—Paul Boston debut of NDAA and Motswa Hole. turing MaryEllen Hooper, Helen Keaney and Joanie Fagan; Gilligan;Sep 22—Mark Riley; Sep 23 & 24—Bob Seibel. Sep 18—Tony V. and E.J. Murphy; Sep 21—Jim Lauletta and Harrison Stebbins; Sep 23 at 8 and 10:15 p.m., Sep FILM 24 at 10:30 p.m.—Greg Proops; Sep 24 at 8 p.m.—Paul CONVENTIONS & EXPOS

Keenan and Dave Rattigan; Sep 25—Rich Ceisler and BOSTON FILM FESTIVAL, Loews Copley Place and Loews v ent e

Greg Howell. HYNES CONVENTION CENTER, 900 Boylston St., 617-954- Boston Common, 617-266-2533. Through Sep 15. Call for ents 2000. Sep 17 & 18 at noon—CollegeFest 2005; Sep 19 — full schedule and festival pass prices, or visit www.bostonfilm THE COMEDY STUDIO AT THE HONG KONG, 1236 Mass. Rental Housing Conference and Expo Event. festival.org. Single tickets: $10. Now in its 21st year, the BFF Ave., Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617-661-6507. Doors has become the highlight of the fall film season. This year’s PHOTO BY C ATHARINE M C D ERMOT T-TINGLE open at 7:30 p.m.; nightly shows begin at 8 p.m. Call for festival showcases feature films and shorts selected from

curr JIMMY TINGLE: The former “60 Minutes II” com- complete schedule. Cover: $3–7. A place where fresh tal- DANCE over 15 countries. mentator takes the stage at his Somerville theater, ent is discovered and headliners experiment. Sep 13 & Jimmy Tingle’s Off-Broadway in Davis Square, with 20—Magic Lounge; Sep 14—Jeff Rosenspan, Evan PUTTIN ON THE RITZ ON THE ROOF, Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 15 THE BRATTLE THEATRE, 40 Brattle St., Cambridge, 617-876- his new one-man show, Jimmy Tingle’s American Monsky, Kevin Neales and others; Sep 15 & 22—Dan Arlington St., 617-536-5700. Sep 23 at 7 p.m. Tickets: $35. Dance 6837. Call for showtimes and complete schedule. Tickets: $9; Dream, Thursdays through Sundays, and as part of Sally Show with guest comedians; Sep 16—The Walsh to the classics of big band and swing from the 1940s, performed students & matinees $7.50; seniors & children $6. Classic, the Comedy for Cambridge Forum on September 19. Brothers, Tony Pike, Peter Bowers and others; Sep 17— by the Ritz-Carlton Orchestra, in one of Boston’s best settings for a cutting-edge and world cinema with a different double feature Refer to listing, page 29. Jim Flaherty, E.J. Murphy, Janet Cormier and others; Sep night of music—the 17th-floor rooftop of the Back Bay Ritz-Carlton. almost every day. Special event: The Complete Kubrick, a 18 & 25—Erin Judge Presents: Tom E. Morello, Mandy Donovan, Amy Tee, Ken Reid and others; Sep 21—Tony V with Daniella Capolin, Marc Basch, Dan Hirsh and others; CLASSICAL Sep 23 & 24—D.J. Hazard CD recording with The Walsh Brothers and others; Sep 10—Peter Dutton, Ken Reid, BOSTON UNIVERSITY COLLEGE OF FINE ARTS, Tsai Rebecca Anderson and guests. Performing Arts Center, 655 Commonwealth Ave., 617-353- 8724. All events are free and open to the public. Sep 21 at 8 DICK DOHERTY’S COMEDY VAULT, Remington’s Restaurant, p.m.—Piano recital by faculty member Maria Clodes, per- 124 Boylston St., 617-482-0110. Call for reservations and forming works by Bach, Villa-Lobos and Schumann; Sep 22 at complete schedule. Showtimes: Thu–Sat at 9 p.m.; open mic 8 p.m.—Piano recital by Richmond Competition winner So- Sun at 9 p.m. Cover: $10–15. Located in an actual bank Youn Kim, performing works by Bach, Haydn and vault downstairs in Remington’s Eating and Drinking Rachmaninov. Exchange, this club features top area comics. Sep 15 & 22—Greg Howell and friends; Sep 16 & 17—TBA; Sep 18 & EMMANUEL MUSIC, Emmanuel Church, 15 Newbury St., 25—Jim Lauletta hosts open mike night; Sep 23 & 24— 617-536-3356. Admission: free will offering. Sep 18 at 10 Steve Sweeney. a.m.—Conductor Craig Smith leads the Orchestra and Chorus of Emmanuel Music in the Weekly Bach Cantata, BWV 69a; IMPROV ASYLUM, 216 Hanover St., 617-263-6887. Sep 25 at 10 a.m.—BWV 19. Showtimes: Wed & Thu at 8 p.m.; Fri & Sat at 8 and 10 p.m. Tickets: $15–20, dinner packages available. Wed & Thu— YO-YO MA, Bank of America Celebrity Series, Symphony Hall, Summer in New England, featuring satirical audience-inspired 301 Massachusetts Ave., 617-598-3220. Sep 25 at 5 p.m. improv and sketch comedy. Every Thursday at 9:45 p.m.— Tickets: $33–78. Cellist Yo-Yo Ma performs an all-Bach pro- NXT Talent showcase: Sep 23—The Night Shift, with Micah gram, followed by the Celebrity Series Opening Night Gala, Sherman and friends; Every Sat at midnight —The Midnight featuring a cocktail reception, dinner and a live auction. Show promises quick wit, controversy and hilarity.

IMPROVBOSTON, Back Alley Theater, 1253 Cambridge St., COMEDY Cambridge, 617-576-1253. Showtimes: Wed at 8 p.m.; Thu & Fri at 8 and 10 p.m.; Sat at 6, 8 and 10 p.m.; Sun at 7 BOSTON INTERNATIONAL FILM AND COMEDY FESTIVAL, p.m. Cover: $5–12. This comedy troupe features sketch Various locations, 800-233-3123. Through Sep 17. Some of comedy, games, original music and audience participation. the top comedians from the Boston area and beyond will Wed—The Hump; Thu—UnNatural Selection and The Great gather in the Hub at The Comedy Connection, Dick Doherty’s & Secret Comedy Show; Fri— Girls’ Night Out and Comedy Vault, ImprovAsylum, Nick’s Comedy Stop and other TheatreSports; Sat—ImprovBoston Family Show and venues for a week of workshops, stand-up performances, ImprovBoston Mainstage; Sun—Sgt. Culpepper’s ___ theme shows and head-to-head competition as part of Improvisational Jamboree. ___ 28 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 29

Stanley Kubrick retrospective, including: Sep 12—Full Metal ents the magical world of puppet theater to a broad communi- BEANTOWN JAZZ FESTIVAL, Columbus Avenue between Mass. Jacket; Sep 14—A Clockwork Orange; Sep 15—Eyes Wide ty, enlightening audiences of all ages. Tickets: $8.50. Sep 17 Ave. and Burke St., 866-442-7995. Sep 24 from noon–7 p.m. Shut; Sep 16–18—Cambridge Queer Film Festival, celebrat- & 18 at 1 and 3 p.m.—Cinderella, A Woodland Fairy Princess; Free and open to the public. Boston’s South End comes to life at ing gay, bisexual, lesbian and transgender cinema. Sep 24 & 25 at 1 and 3 p.m.—Jack and the Beanstalk. the 5th annual Beantown Jazz Festival, featuring performances by some of the city’s most prominent jazz artists, as well as deli- COOLIDGE CORNER THEATRE, 290 Harvard Ave., Brookline, cious food from area restaurants and arts and crafts activities. 617-734-2500. Call for showtimes and complete schedule. LIVE MUSIC

Tickets: $8.50; members $5.50; seniors & children $5.50. BOSTON BLUES FESTIVAL, DCR Hatch Shell, Charles River curr This independent movie house screens recent indie films, as AARDVARK JAZZ ORCHESTRA, Emmanuel Church, 15 Esplanade. Sep 24 & 25 from 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Free and open well as the classics. Now showing: A State of Mind, The Newbury St., 617-776-8778. This local jazz collaborative offers to the public. Boston’s only free two-day blues festival brings Constant Gardener. Special events: Celebrating the ’70s Film its 33rd season of concerts, with proceeds for the shows ben- together nationally-known blues legends. This year’s lineup Series: Sep 12 at 7:30 p.m.—Deliverance; Sep 16–22—The efiting the American friends Service Committee. Sep 18 at includes Louisiana Red, Sweet Willie D, Duke Robillard, Sugar ents

Manhattan Short Film Festival allows moviegoers to vote for 7:30 p.m.—Jazz as Celebration and Challenge, featuring Ray Norcia, David Honeyboy Edwards and many more. ent e

v their favorite short film; Sep 22—The Muddy River works by Duke Ellington and Mark Harvey, tickets: $15. Environmental Film Festival. BOSTON FOLK FESTIVAL, UMass-Boston campus, 100 AVALON, 15 Lansdowne St., 617-262-2424. This popular Morrissey Boulevard, 617-287-6911. Sep 24 & 25 from 11 HARVARD FILM ARCHIVE, Carpenter Center for the Visual nightclub hosts rock and pop music acts prior to evening a.m.–7 p.m. Tickets: two-day pass $60; Sat or Sun $35; chil- Arts, 24 Quincy St., Cambridge 617-495-4700. Call for show- dance nights with DJs. Sep 25 at 7 p.m.—Paul Weller with dren 6–14 for unlimited days $10, children under 6 free. Call

times, complete schedule and ticket prices. With over 300 Ian Moore, tickets: $26. for tickets and full schedule. The festival brings together some v ent e

films shown per year, HFA is one of the most active art cine- of the premier folk artists from across the country, including ents mas in New England. Special event: The Films of Louis Malle, AXIS, 13 Landsdowne St., 617-262-2437. Call for full sched- Patty Griffin, Suzanne Vega, Janis Ian, Lori McKenna, Chris featuring screenings of: Sep 14 at 7 p.m. and Sep 15 at 9 ule. This popular nightclub hosts rock, punk and alternative Smither, Ollabelle and many more. p.m.—Calcutta; Sep 16 at 7 p.m. and Sep 18 at 9 p.m.—A music acts prior to evening dance nights with DJs. Sep 23 at Very Private Affair; Sep 20 at 7 p.m.—Crackers; Sep 23 at 7 7 p.m.—Helmet, tickets: $15. BOSTON OPERA HOUSE, 539 Washington St., 617-259-3400.

curr p.m. and Sep 25 at 9 p.m.—Vanya on 42nd Street. This recently refurbished magnificent venue for opera and BANK OF AMERICA PAVILION, 290 Northern Ave., 617-931- musical theater also hosts pop and rock concerts. Sep 15 at LOEWS BOSTON COMMON, corner of Tremont and Avery COOLIDGE CORNER THEATRE: The beloved 2000. This open-air waterfront venue features world-class 7:30 p.m.—Sigur Ros, tickets: $27 & 32.50; Sep 20–22 at streets, 617-423-3499 or 617-333-FILM. Call for showtimes, art house theater in Brookline is currently show- rock, pop, blues and country performers set against the back- 7:30 p.m.—The White Stripes, tickets: $40 & 45. complete schedule and ticket prices. This state-of-the-art casing the Celebrating the ’70s Film Series, with drop of the Boston skyline. Sep 24 at 7 p.m.—MixFest 2005, cineplex is the largest downtown movie theater in New a screening of John Boorman’s Deliverance on featuring Sheryl Crow, Cyndi Lauper, Gavin DeGraw and CLUB PASSIM, 47 Palmer St., Cambridge, 617-492-7679. Call for England, featuring 4,500 stadium seats and 19 oversized September 12. Refer to listing, left. Howie Day, tickets: $47.50 & 67.50. full schedule. This intimate coffeehouse in Harvard Square was a screens spanning 100,000 square feet. Special event: Fan Favorite Thursdays, free showings of favorite films.

MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, 465 Huntington Ave., 617-267-9300. closed Sep 12. Daily organized activities in the Art Studio, Play Screenings Thu–Sun, call for showtimes and complete sched- Space and KidStage, such as music and movement, finger North Shore Music Theatre ule. Tickets: $9; students & seniors $8. The Museum of Fine puppet making and kitchen science. Special events: Sep 14 & is coming to Boston. Arts’ Film Program has grown to become one of the nation’s 21 from 1:30–2:30 p.m.—Pint-Sized Science; Sep 17 from finest exhibitors of contemporary international cinema, restored noon–2 p.m.—Critter Day, featuring a program by R.E.A.D., New England’s most popular musical theater. classics and premieres of American independent films. Sep 15 which utilizes dogs to assist children with reading difficulties. at 6 p.m.—Au Revoir Les Enfants. Special event: The Films of Daniel Bruhle, featuring screenings of: Sep 15 at 8 p.m., Sep BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY, 700 Boylston St., Copley Square, 22 at 3 p.m.—No More School; Sep 16 at 8 p.m.—The White 617-536-5400. Refer to listing in Sightseeing section. The Sound; Sep 21 at 6 p.m., Sep 24 at 10:30 a.m.—Honolulu. first publicly supported municipal library in the world hosts many activities and special programs for children, including MUGAR OMNI THEATER, Museum of Science, 617-723-2500 live performances, storytelling, interactive computer activities September 20 – or 617-333-FILM. Call for showtimes and complete schedule. and films. Special event: Sep 17 from 1–4 p.m.—Celebrate Tickets: $7.50; seniors $5.50; children (3–11) $6.50. Curious George’s birthday with a book sale and signing, arts Discounted admission for showtimes after 6 p.m. This and crafts for children, as well as birthday bananas. October 9 IMAX theater presents larger-than-life images on a five- story high, domed screen. Now showing: Antarctica; Fighter HARVARD COOP, Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617-499-2000. Pilot; Yellowstone. Popular Harvard University book and gift store hosts events for children each month. Sep 17 at 11 a.m.—Reading of If The Shubert Theatre SIMONS IMAX THEATER, New England Aquarium, Central You Give a Pig a Party, followed by a pig party; Sep 24 at 11 265 TREMONT STREET, BOSTON Wharf, 1-866-815-4629. Sun–Wed 9:30 a.m.–9:30 p.m.; a.m.—Fall stories and craft activity. Thu–Sat: 10 a.m.–9:30 p.m. Call for showtimes and complete schedule. Tickets: $8.95; seniors & children (3–11) $6.95. This MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, 465 Huntington Ave., 617-267-9300. Tickets on sale now Ticket prices: $32 – $65* recent addition to the New England Aquarium is the first large- Refer to listing in Museums. The fine arts are not just for adults. Telecharge.com: 800-447-7400 format theater in Boston to have 3D viewing capability. Now Special activities: Mon–Fri at 3:30 p.m.—Children’s Room, free www.wangcenter.org showing: Wild Safari; Sharks 3D; Aliens of the Deep; through gallery and workshop program for children ages 6–12, offering The Shubert Theatre Box Office: Mon-Sat-10am-6pm Sep 16—Batman Begins, The IMAX Experience. active exploration of the MFA’s collection through art projects, drama, poetry and music; Tue & Wed at 3:30 p.m.—Books For more information call 978-232-7200 Bring Art Alive explores the MFA collections using picture tty # 888-889-8587 *dates, times and prices subject to change. KIDS CORNER books, gallery activities and adult/child art projects. Sponsored by BOSTON CHILDREN’S MUSEUM, Museum Wharf, 300 Congress PUPPET SHOWPLACE THEATRE, 32 Station St., Brookline, ___ St., 617-426-8855. Refer to listing in Museums. Museum 617-731-6400. The first puppetry center in New England pres- ___ 30 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 31

starting place for legendary folk icons such as Joan Baez and TWEETER CENTER, Routes 140 and 146, Mansfield (45 min- BOSTON OPEN STUDIOS, through December, more than 1,200 Bob Dylan. Sep 14 at 8 p.m.—Beth Amsel and Anais Mitchell, utes south of Boston), 617-931-2000. The concerts at this Boston artists open their studios to the public, providing a rare tickets: $12; Sep 17 at 8 p.m.—Teddy Goldstein with Jes outdoor amphitheater are a hallmark of summer and boast look into the booming art scene in 12 Boston neighborhoods. Hudak, tickets: $14; Sep 21 at 8 p.m.—Music for Life Cancer some of pop music’s biggest acts. Sep 25 at 7 p.m.—Brooks Events are free and open to the public. Sep 17 & 18 from 11 Research Benefit with Teresa Storch, Patty Keough and others, and Dunn with Big & Rich and The Warren Brothers, tickets: a.m.–6 p.m.—19th annual South End Open Studios, visit tickets: $15; Sep 22 at 8 p.m.—Rushad Eggleston and The Wild $25 & 49.75. www.useaboston.com or call 617-267-8862; Sep 24 & 25 Band of Snee, tickets: $15; Sep 23 at 7 p.m.—Ferron, tickets: from 11:30 a.m.–6 p.m.—Annual Jamaica Plain Open Studios,

$25; Sep 24 & 25 at 7:30 p.m.—Jackopierce, tickets: $25. WALLY’S CAFE, 427 Massachusetts Ave., 617-424-1408. visit www.jpopenstudios.com or call 617-524-3816. curr Mon–Sat from 9 a.m.–2 a.m.; Sun from noon–2 a.m. DICK’S LAST RESORT, 55 Huntington Ave., 617-267-8080, Bands play at 9 p.m. No cover. Wally’s was established BROOKLINE FESTIVAL IN THE STREET 2005, Harvard Street www.dickslastresort.com. No cover. Call for full schedule. Live in 1947 by Joseph L. Walcot, the first African-American to between Beacon and Fuller streets., Brookline, www.brook music daily from classic rock acts and cover bands, 74 kinds own a nightclub in Boston. It played a large part in the line300.org. Sep 18 from 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Free admission and ents

of beer and dining options that include buckets of ribs, growth of jazz music in this country and continues to host parking. Held in cooperation with Brookline Greenspace Alliance, ent e

v shrimp, lobster, crab cakes, chicken and crab legs. live jazz daily. The annual Festival in the Street features a day of activities including: more than 60 juried crafters selling jewelry, ceramics, HARPERS FERRY, 156 Brighton Ave., Allston, 617-254-9743. WONG AUDITORIUM, MIT Tang Center, 2 Amherst St., glass, carvings, photography and textiles; arts and community Shows start at 8 p.m. Call for complete schedule. This club Cambridge, 617-258-7971. Sep 25 at 4 p.m.—Sitar groups providing information and demonstrations; and kids offers live music daily and is reknown for showcasing local clas- performance by Shahid Parvez, tickets: $18. activities such as pony rides, face-painting and balloons. Also

sic rock and rhythm’n’ blues cover bands. Sep 12—Mallochio, enjoy live music and dancing, as well as food throughout the v ent e

tickets: $4; Sep 13 & 20—Carmen’s Condition, tickets: $4; Sep day. This year’s event celebrates Brookline’s 300th birthday. ents 14—The Fly-Agaris Sky, Ulysses and Caspian, tickets: $5; Sep SPECIAL EVENTS 15—Spiritual Rez, tickets: $10–13; Sep 17—Bomb Squad fea- CAVALIA, Suffolk Downs, Junction of Rtes. 1A & 145, 866- turing Jen Durkin, tickets: $8; Sep 21—Contruda with Old Silver THE BIG E, 1305 Memorial Ave., West Springfield, 413-205- 999-8111. Performances through Sep 18: Wed–Fri at 8 p.m., Band, tickets: $5; Sep 23—The Ponys, tickets: $8; Sep 24— 5115. Beginning Sep 16 from 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Gates open at Sat at 3 & 8 p.m., Sun at 1 & 5 p.m. Tickets: $69 & 79; $49 &

curr Playin Dead (Grateful Dead tribute band), tickets: $5. 8 a.m. Tickets: $12–15; children (ages 6–12) $8–10; children 59 for children under 12. From Normand Latourelle, one of the (under 6) free. This year’s Eastern States Exposition promises to founders of the world-renowned Cirque du Soleil, comes THE MIDDLE EAST, 472 Mass. Ave., Cambridge, 617-864- MIXFEST 2005: The Bank of America Pavilion be bigger than ever, featuring a Mardi Gras parade, live enter- Cavalia, a multi-media performance piece uniting acrobats, EAST. Doors open at 8 p.m., show starts at 9 p.m. unless oth- hosts local radio station Mix 98.5’s annual tainment from acrobats to national music acts such as aerialists, dancers, musicians, world-class riders and 50 horses erwise noted. Call for complete schedule. Cover: $8–20. MixFest, which this year features Sheryl Crow Gretchen Wilson, Collective Soul, Los Lonely Boys and Charo, in a dream-like theatrical experience. Watch as horses gallop Whether Upstairs, Downstairs or in the Corner, this entertain- (pictured above), Cyndi Lauper, Gavin DeGraw with additional activities including rides, shopping, crafts and and play in front of a 200-foot wide screen projecting ever- ment club showcases the best alternative and indie rock and Howie Day. Refer to listing, page 31. cuisine from around the world. changing images. bands in town. Sep 13—Molotov, tickets: $30; Sep 18— Lucero, Chris Mills and the New Miserable Bastards, tickets: $10; Sep 21—Four Tet, Hot Chip and Koushik, tickets: $12–15; Sep 24—Lez Zeppelin with Sirsy, The Scam and The 10 p.m., Fri & Sat at 8 and 10:30 p.m., Sun at 7 and 9 p.m. Vital Might, tickets: $15; Sep 25—Nashville Pussy with Zeke unless otherwise noted. Combination tickets include dinner and and The A.K.A.s, tickets: $15. show. Sep 14—Jack Donahue, tickets: $18, $58 with dinner; Sep 15 & 16—Terence Blanchard, tickets: $20, $60 with dinner; Sep PARADISE ROCK CLUB, 967 Commonwealth Ave., 617-562- 21—Ron Gill & The Manny Williams Trio, tickets: $15, $55 with 8800. Call for complete schedule. Intimate setting with a big dinner; Sep 23—Tierney Sutton, tickets: $20, $60 with dinner. sound, Paradise is one of Boston’s favorite rock clubs. All shows 18+ unless otherwise noted. Sep 12 at 8 p.m.—Nouvelle SOMERVILLE THEATRE, 55 Davis Square, Somerville, 617- Vague, tickets: $14; Sep 13 at 8 p.m.—Mike Doughty’s Band 625-4088. Sep 22 at 8 p.m.—Arkadi Duchin, tickets: $27 & with Chris Glover, tickets: $20; Sep 14 at 8 p.m.—Casey 35; Sep 24 at 8 p.m.—Lila Downs, tickets: $22 & 28. Desmond with Valerie Forgione, tickets: $8; Sep 15 at 9 p.m.— Apocalyptica with Eyes of Fire, tickets: $15; Sep 16 at 9 p.m.— TD BANKNORTH GARDEN, 100 Legends Way (Causeway The Proclaimers with Deadman, tickets: $17; Sep 17 at 9 Street), 617-624-1000. The former FleetCenter plays host not p.m.—Little Brother with The Away Team, Legacy, Darien only to Celtics and Bruins games, but is the premier indoor Brockington, Joe Scudda and Chaundon, tickets: $15; Sep 18 at concert arena for the city of Boston. Sep 16 & 17 at 8 p.m.— 8 p.m.—The Bodeans with Shannon McNally, tickets: $20; Sep Elton John, tickets: $45–125. 20 at 8 p.m.—Glen Phillips, Kim Richie and Griffin House with Missy Higgins, tickets: $20; Sep 21 at 8 p.m.—Citizen Cope T.T. THE BEAR’S PLACE, 10 Brookline St., Cambridge, 617- with Courtney Dowe, tickets: $17; Sep 22 at 9 p.m.—Royskopp 492-BEAR. Shows start at 8:30 p.m. Call for complete sched- with Annie, tickets: $18; Sep 23 at 9 p.m.—M.I.A., tickets: $20; ule. Cover: $8–14. Sep 15—Athlete, The Working Title and Sep 24 at 9 p.m.—Particle with Gabby La La, tickets: $17. Radka; Sep 16—The National, Pela, Aberdeen City and The Octopus Project; Sep 21—Towers of London, Gore Gore Girls REGATTABAR, third floor of The Charles Hotel, 1 Bennett St., and The Strays; Sep 22—Marjorie Fair with Stand; Sep 24— Cambridge, 617-661-5099. Sep 14 & 15 at 7:30 & 10 p.m.— The Gravel Pit, The Downbeats, Teenage Prayers and Superlow. The Mike Stern Group, tickets: $22.50; Sep 16 at 7:30 and 10 p.m.—Maria Muldaur, tickets: $20; Sep 17 at 7:30 and 10 TOP OF THE HUB, Prudential Tower, 52nd floor, 617-536- p.m.—Jimmy Scott and The Jazz Explorers 80th Birthday 1775. Enjoy food, drink and the best view in Boston as you Celebration, tickets: $25; Sep 21 & 22 at 7:30 and 10 p.m.— swing to live jazz and classics from ther Great American Danilo Perez Trio, tickets: $18; Sep 23 at 7:30 and 10 p.m.— Songbook. Sep 12, 18, 19 & 25 at 8 p.m.—Marty Ballou Trio; Bruce Gertz/Jerry Bergonzi Quartet, tickets: $15. Sep 13–15 at 8:30—Bob Nieske Trio; Sep 16 & 17, at 9 p.m.—Bob Nieske Group with Maggie Galloway; Sep 18 & 25 SCULLERS JAZZ CLUB, DoubleTree Guest Suites Hotel, 400 at noon—Lee Childs Group; Sep 20–22 at 8:30 p.m., Sep 23 ___ Soldiers Field Road, 617-562-4111. Showtimes: Tue–Thu at 8 and & 24 at 9 p.m.—Tony Carelli Group. ___ 32 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 33 FENWAY FICTION, Morton’s, The Steakhouse, One Exeter p.m., Fri at 7 p.m., Sat at 4, 7 and 10 p.m., Sun at 2 and 5 p.m. sale who bond over their menopausal ailments—memory loss, Plaza, 617-266-5858. Sep 19 from 5:30–7:30 p.m. Free and Tickets: $46–56. This giddily subversive off-Broadway hit fea- brain skips, hot flashes, night sweats, not enough sex, too open to the public. Morton’s and Boston literacy advocacy pro- tures three muted, blue-painted performers who spoof both much sex and more. The joyful musical parodies 28 classic gram ReadBoston host a special evening unveiling the new contemporary art and modern technology through wry com- Baby Boomer songs. short fiction collection Fenway Fiction: Short Stories from the mentary and bemusing antics. The show has been updated to Red Sox Nation, featuring works by novelists, playwrights and include new performance pieces, new music and alterations to ON THE TWENTIETH CENTURY, Overture Productions, Cutler true-blue fans of the Boston Red Sox. Complimentary hors the sound and lighting design. Majestic Theatre at Emerson College, 219 Tremont St., 800-

d’oeuvres and a cash bar are featured, and donations to 233-3123. Performances Sep 23–25: Fri & Sat at 8 p.m., Sun curr ReadBoston will be accepted. CAMELOT, North Shore Music Theatre, The Shubert Theatre, at 2 p.m. Tickets: $20–60. This classic screwball comedy, 265 Tremont St., 800-447-7400. Performances beginning Sep based on the Charles MacArthur-Ben Hecht Broadway hit play GREAT GLASS PUMPKIN PATCH, Kresge Oval at MIT, 48 20: Tue, Thu & Fri at 8 p.m., Wed & Sat at 2 and 8 p.m., Sun at and directed by former Broadway in Boston honcho Tony Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, 617-253-5309. Sep 24 from 2 p.m. Tickets: $22.50–63. Long ago and far away, in a lawless McLean, is the story of Oscar Jaffee, an egotistical and perpet- ents

10 a.m.–5 p.m. Free and open to the public. The artists of MIT’s and barbaric land, there was one brief shining moment when ually broke theatrical producer, who plots to talk his estranged ent e X O v Glass Lab allow visitors to get a jump on the Halloween season justice and order held sway—until passion got in the way. Join paramour, Lily Garland, into appearing in one of his plays while with an exhibition and sale of more than 1,000 handblown S King Arthur, Guenevere and Sir Lancelot in this epic saga of love on board the luxury train the Twentieth Century. ED

glass pumpkins of all sizes, shapes and colors. Proceeds from R and betrayal, set to the soaring melodies of Lerner and Loewe.

the sale benefit the Glass Lab. / PAL JOEY, Stoneham Theatre, 395 Main St., Stoneham, 781- ON O CARMEN, American Repertory Theatre, Loeb Drama Center, 279-2200. Performances beginning Sep 15: Thu at 7:30 p.m., OST GRAFFITI ARTISTS LECTURE, Kirsch Auditorium, MIT Stata 64 Brattle St., Cambridge, 617-547-8300. Performances Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 4 & 8 p.m., Sun at 2 p.m. Tickets: $18–36. v B ent e

Center, 32 Vassar St., Cambridge, 617-253-2341. Sep 20 at 7 through Sep 25: Tue–Thu at 7:30 p.m., Fri & Sat at 8 p.m., Set in late 1930s Chicago, this popular Rodgers and Hart musi- ents ORDEIR C p.m. MIT hosts a free talk by the Bronx, N.Y.-based graffiti THE Sun at 2 p.m. Tickets: $12–74. Produced in association with cal about a first-class scoundrel and his schemes involving a

artists TATS CRU, who rose from being struggling inner-city OF Minnesota’s Theatre de la Jeune Lune, this theatrical take on rich widow launched hits like “Bewitched, Bothered and teens creating subway graffiti to become acclaimed and in- ULIE Bizet’s classic tale of two men’s love for a seductive gypsy girl Bewildered” and “I Could Write a Book.” : J TESY demand artists who helped get graffiti recognized as a legiti- O offers an intimate, potent and volatile chamber opera, accom- T curr mate art form. TATS CRU members speak with the public as panied by dueling grand pianos. THE REAL THING, Huntington Theatre Company, Boston HO

part of their weeklong participation in the Abramowitz Artist-In- P COUR University Theatre, 264 Huntington Ave., 617-266-0800. Residence Program at MIT. MENOPAUSE THE MUSICAL, Stuart Street Playhouse, Performances beginning Sep 9: Wed & Thu at 7:30 p.m., Fri at BOSTON RED SOX: Slugger Manny Ramirez Radisson Hotel, 200 Stuart St., 800-447-7400. Performances: 8 p.m., Sat at 2 and 8 p.m., Sun at 2 p.m. Tickets: $15–60. The JIMMY FUND WALK, Starting points in Hopkinton, Wellesley, at leads the charge as the home team takes on the Wed–Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 4 and 8 p.m., Sun at 2 and 5 p.m. brilliant wordsmith Tom Stoppard explores the complex joy and at Harvard Medical School in Boston, 866-JFW-HERO. Sep 18. Oakland Athletics in a four-game series begin- Tickets: $42.50. This hilarious celebration of women and “the pain of being in love in this clever and deeply felt drama about Join in the fight against cancer by participating in the 17th ning September 15. Refer to listing below. change” starts with four ladies at a Bloomingdale’s lingerie relationships. A successful playwright takes his marriage to the annual Boston Marathon Jimmy Fund Walk alongside more than 6,000 walkers. The Boston Marathon Jimmy Fund Walk gives participants the opportunity to follow the route of the 26.2-mile Boston Marathon in honor or memory of friends, demonstrations by Marc Orfaly of Pigalle, Michael Schlow of family, co-workers, and patients facing all forms of the disease. Radius/Via Matta/Great Bay, Tony Ambrose of Ambrosia and In its 16-year history the Jimmy Fund Walk has contributed Blackfin, David Blessing of The Four Seasons Hotel and Tony more than $35 million to support cancer research and care. Maws of Craigie Street Bistro, among others. Concerts throughout the day feature performances by Gin Blossoms and others. PHANTOM GOURMET FOOD FESTIVAL, Lansdowne Street For young sports fans, the Junior Jocks area will allow kids to (near Fenway Park) Sep 24 from 11 a.m.–4 p.m. Tickets: $25. test their abilities in baseball, basketball and more. Hosted by the popular local restaurant review TV show, the Phantom Gourmet Festival unites some of Boston’s tastiest restaurants in a day-long tasting event showing off their signa- SPORTS ture dishes. Sample barbecue, hot dogs, whoopie pies, ice cream, oysters, crepes, candies and more from spots like BOSTON BRUINS NATIONAL HOCKEY LEAGUE Fuddruckers, Black Cow, Panera, Kelly’s Roast Beef, Firefly’s Agganis Arena, Boston University, 925 Commonwealth Ave., and more. Plus, guests can sign up for private parties at clubs 617-931-2000 along Lansdowne Street such as The Tiki Room, Game On, Jake Sep 16 at 7 p.m. Intersquad scrimmage Ivory’s and others. TD Banknorth Garden, 100 Legend Way, 617-624-1000 Sep 23 at 7 p.m. Pre-season game vs. New York Islanders RIVERSING 2005, at the Weeks Footbridge between Allston and Cambridge, 617-972-8300. Sep 22 from 6:30–7:30 p.m. Free BOSTON RED SOX MAJOR LEAGUE BASEBALL admission. Join hundreds of singers at the Weeks Footbridge to Fenway Park, 4 Yawkey Way, 617-482-4SOX. celebrate the passage from summer to fall. Under the artistic Sep 15–17 at 7:05 p.m. vs. Oakland Athletics leadership of the Revels, this event includes, among other Sep 18 at 2:05 p.m. vs. Oakland Athletics things, reciprocal singing across the Charles River, the lighting of the Weeks Bridge, and musical performances by The Second NEW ENGLAND REVOLUTION MAJOR LEAGUE SOCCER Line Social Aid and Pleasure Society and other local bands. Gilettte Stadium, One Patriot Place, Foxborough, 800-543-1776 or 877-GETREVS. TASTE OF BOSTON, City Hall Plaza, www.tasteofboston.com. Sep 24 at 7:30 p.m. vs. MetroStars Sep 17 from 11 a.m.–6 p.m., Sep 18 from noon–6 p.m. Tickets: $1, average tasting cost is 1–5 tickets. Bring the family for a day of fun, food and entertainment at the 22nd annual cel- THEATER ebration of Boston’s lively culinary world. This year’s event features food samplings from 50 area restaurants and an enor- BLUE MAN GROUP, Charles Playhouse, 74 Warrenton St., 617- ___ mous beer and wine garden. Highlights include celebrity chef 931-2787 or 617-426-6912. Performances: Wed & Thu at 8 34 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005

CLUBS & BARS breaking point when he falls in love with another woman. But is PUBS AND BARS it the real thing? This multiple Tony Award-winner is a master- fully written play of wit, passion, humor and intelligence. AUDOBON CIRCLE, 838 Beacon St., 617-421-1910. Daily 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m.; bar open ’til 1 a.m. This stylish but RIVERDANCE, The Wang Theatre, 270 Tremont St., 1-800-447- welcoming bar and restaurant offers great drinks and food 7400. Performances Sep 16–25: Tue–Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 2 in a hip, minimalist setting. and 8 p.m., Sun at 1 and 7 p.m. Tickets: $29.50–69.50. The internationally acclaimed celebration of Irish music, song and THE BELL IN HAND TAVERN, 45 Union St., 617-227- dance that has touched the hearts of millions around the world 2098. Daily 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m. Opened in 1795, the triumphantly returns. “An explosion of sight and sound that Bell in Hand is the oldest tavern in the U.S. This casual simply takes your breath away,” cheers the Chicago Tribune. pub, offering pints, food and live music, attracts locals, Discover why nothing in the world compares to the original. students, and sightseers alike. Tues—Karaoke night. ents

v ROMEO AND JULIET, New Repertory Theatre, Arsenal Center THE BLACK ROSE, 160 State St., next to Faneuil Hall for the Arts, 200 Dexter Ave., Watertown, 617-332-1646. Marketplace, 617-742-2286. Daily 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m.

Performances: Wed & Thu at 7:30 p.m., Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at Live Irish music nightly and select afternoons in an clubs & bar 3:30 and 8 p.m., Sun at 2 and 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $30–48. The authentic pub setting. company christens its new theatre with William Shakespeare’s timeless tale of star-crossed lovers. Artistic director Rick BRISTOL LOUNGE, Four Seasons Hotel, 200 Boylston St.,

ent e Lombardo directs a sprawling production that takes advantage 617-351-2052. Jazz entertainers create sounds as lush of the larger stage in this passionate and sexy production. as their setting on a Boston-made, antique Steinert piano. Tue–Thu 8 p.m.–midnight—solo jazz pianist Joe Barbato; SHEAR MADNESS, Charles Playhouse Stage II, 74 Warrenton Wed–Sat 5–7:30 p.m.—solo jazz pianist Bert Seager; Fri St., 617-426-5225. Performances: Tue–Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at & Sat 8:30 p.m.–12:30 a.m.—Suzanne Davis Jazz Trio;

curr 6:30 and 9:30 p.m., Sun at 3 and 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $34–50. Sun 11 a.m.–2 p.m.—Sunday Jazz Brunch with the Dan Boston’s hilarious whodunnit where the audience takes a stab Greenspan Jazz Duo. at catching the killer. Become an armchair sleuth in the longest-running non-musical play in U.S. history. BLUE MAN GROUP: The acclaimed perform- BUKOWSKI’S TAVERN, 50 Dalton St., 617-437-9999. ance trio blends music, satire and special Mon–Sat 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m.; Sun noon–2 a.m. Cash only. LANSDOWNE STREET: Home to Axis, Avlaon (pic- s SMOKEY JOE’S CAFE, Turtle Lane Playhouse, 283 Melrose St., effects in their acclaimed, ongoing show at the Traditional pub-style food and more than 100 types of tured above), Game On, Jake Ivory’s, Jillian’s and Newton, 617-244-0169. Performances beginning Sep 16: Charles Playhouse in the Theatre District. beer characterize this cozy and unpretentious hole-in-the- more, Lansdowne Street behind Fenway Park’s Thu–Sat at 8 p.m., Sun at 2 p.m. Tickets: $24. This cabaret- Refer to listing, page 34. wall space near the Prudential Center Mall. Green Monster is ground zero for nightlife in Boston. style verison of the hit musical revue of 1950s pop and rock Refer to listings, page 38. music, featuring such favorites as “Dance with Me,” “Yakety THE CACTUS CLUB, 939 Boylston St., 617-263-0200. Yak,” “Hound Dog” and “Love Potion #9,” is sure to take audi- Sun-Tue 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.; Wed-Thurs 11:30 a.m.– ences back to the days of poodle skirts and cars with tail fins. EXPLORERS PASS, Available at 60 Rowes Wharf, 800-887- 11 p.m.; Fri–Sat 11:30 a.m.–midnight; bar open ’til 2 a.m. 9103. Pass price: $35. The pass offers free admission to 10 top daily. Famous for its margaritas, this always-packed restau- occasional professional athlete, and remains one of the city’s THE STORY, Zeitgeist Stage Company, Black Box Theatre, Boston attractions—including the New England Aquarium, JFK rant and bar offers a full lunch and dinner menu. Sun 10 most popular bars. Full kitchen serves pub-style food seven Boston Center for the Arts, 539 Tremont St., 617-933-8600. Presidential Library and Boston Harbor Cruises—over a two- p.m.–midnight—Free taco bar; Tue—Build-your-own nights a week. Performances through Sep 25: Thu & Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 4 day period. Card holders are also entitled to preferred entry at margarita night. and 8 p.m., Sun at 7 p.m. Tickets: $25 & 30. An ambitious select attractions and savings of up to 20% at shops and DICK’S LAST RESORT, 55 Huntington Ave., 617-267-8080. African-American reporter cracks a murder case involving a restaurants around the city. CASK ’N FLAGON, 62 Brookline Ave, 617-536-4840. Live music seven nights a week. No cover, no dress code and white victim who is killed in a black neighborhood with a sen- Sun–Wed 11:30–1 a.m., Thu–Sat ’til 2 a.m. A hangout for certainly no class. Seventy-four kinds of beer for the novice sational scoop—but is it the truth? The fine line between a GO BOSTON CARD, Available at Bostix locations at Faneuil Hall Red Sox fans since the days of Yastrzemski and Fisk, this or serious sudster, or a full bar for the hardcore. This restau- good story and a true story in the American media is explored Marketplace and Copley Square and at the Visitor Information classic bar boasts tons of TVs for watching the Sox if you get rant (of sorts) features buckets of messy ribs, shrimp, lobster, in this fascinating work by Tracey Scott Wilson, described by Center on Boston Common, 617-742-5950. Cards can be pur- shut out of Fenway Park across the street, and is loaded with chicken, catfish and crab legs. the New York Times as “absorbing” and “compelling.” chased in one, two, three, five and seven day increments, and photos depicting the histories of Fenway and the Sox. range from $45–135 for adults, $25–65 for children. The GO Weekend nights DJs spin hits from the ’70s and ’80s, and GRAND CANAL, 57 Canal St., 617-523-1112. This Faneuil URINETOWN, THE MUSICAL, Lyric Stage Company, 140 Boston card offers unlimited free admission to more than 60 patrons can enjoy foosball, pinball and video games. Hall area restaurant and pub transports the authentic style of Clarendon St., 617-437-7172. Performances: Wed at 2 and area atttractions, as well as savings up to 20% at local shops the Victorian Irish pub scene to Boston with high ceilings, 7:30 p.m., Thu at 7:30 p.m., Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 4 and 8 p.m., and restaurants. CHEERS, 84 Beacon St., 617-227-9605. Also: Faneuil Hall antiques, red wallpaper, a grandfather clock rising over the Sun at 3 p.m. Tickets: $20–47. True love blooms in the shadow Marketplace. Known as the model for the late sitcom, this bar, photos of Dublin’s Grand Canal, a balcony, an alcove and of a corrupt corporation that exploits a drastic water shortage Back Bay pub is one of the top tourist attractions in Boston. a working fireplace. Cover varies. and charges residents a fee to pee. Winner of the 2002 Tony TRANSPORTATION Live weekend entertainment. Awards for Best Book and Best Music and Lyrics, this uproari- THE GREEN DRAGON TAVERN, 11 Marshall St., 617-367- ous musical has been hailed by the New York Times as BOSTON BY BOAT, 617-422-0392. 10 a.m.–5 p.m., COYOTE UGLY, 234 Friend St., 617-854-7300. Wed, Thu & 0055. Boston’s premier 18th-century tavern on the Freedom “extraordinary, hilarious and entirely original! The most galva- Sat & Sun only. All-day adult fare: $10, $5 for children. Sat 6 p.m.–2 a.m., Fri 5 p.m.–2 a.m. The Hollywood movie Trail. Serving lunch and dinner daily with lobster specials nizing theatre experience in town!” www.savetheharbor.org. Water shuttle runs every 45 was just a taste of what awaits at this bar where the ladies Mon–Thu. Home of Boston’s only Guinness/Oyster Festival. minutes between the U.S.S. Constitution in Charlestown behind the bar call the shots and suffer no fools. If you’re Entertainment nightly with a traditional Irish ‘seisiun’ Sat and the World Trade Center in South Boston, making stops into rocking music, raucous atmosphere and wild women 4–8 p.m. TICKETS near popular waterfront-area attractions. serving up cold drinks and (if necessary) verbal abuse, Coyote Ugly is the place to go. JULIEN BAR, Langham Hotel, 250 Franklin St., 617-451- BOSTIX, Faneuil Hall Marketplace and Copley Square, 617- BOSTON TOWN CAR, 617-782-4000. Downtown to Logan: 1900. Enjoy cocktails and piano entertainment in this historic 723-5181. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m. (Faneuil Hall closed Mon); $20; Back Bay to Logan: $25. Lincoln Town Car executive DAISY BUCHANAN’S, 240 Newbury St., 617-247-8516. Daily lounge voted Boston’s “Best Fancy Bar.” Mon–Sat from Sun 11 a.m.–4 p.m. Information and tickets, including half- sedans available at reasonable rates. Professional, courteous 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m. No cover. Cash only. Located on Boston’s 5–11:30 p.m.—Dance to the rhythm of pianist Jeffrey price seats on day of event, for the best performing arts around drivers for tours, airport, getting around town and long distance hopping Newbury Street, this casual singles spot attracts Moore. Sun from 11 a.m.–3 p.m.—Sunday Jazz Brunch in ___ Boston. Subject to availability. runs. All major credit cards accepted. college students, businessmen and women, and even the Café Fleuri. No cover. ___ 36 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 37

Now there are two locations KINSALE IRISH PUB AND RESTAURANT, Two Center Plaza, JILLIAN’S BOSTON, 145 Ipswich St. (behind Fenway Park), where you can enjoy all of the Cambridge Street, 617-742-5577. The city’s only Irish pub 617-437-0300. www.jilliansboston.com. Mon–Sat 11 a.m.–2 and restaurant built in Ireland and shipped to Boston. There a.m, Sun noon–2 a.m. One of Boston’s largest entertainment fun seen on the TV series is never a cover charge. Live Irish music Mon–Wed at 7:30 complexes, this fun and diverse club attracts over a million p.m.; Sat at 9:30 p.m. Sun brunch features Irish musicians people a year. Features 50 pool tables, 200 high-tech games, from noon–3 p.m. blackjack for fun and six full bars, Lucky Strike Lanes bowl- ing is located on the third floor, and full-service dining and THE LITTLEST BAR, 47 Province St., 617-523-9766. late-night dancing at Tequila Rain (“spring break 52 weeks a Daily 8:30 a.m.–1:30 a.m. As its name suggests, this year”) on the first floor. Proper dress required. pint-sized Irish pub holds only 38 people, but its cozy, friendly atmosphere serves quality beer and a menu of SAINT, 90 Exeter St., 617-236-1134. Table reservations franks and sandwiches. available. One of Boston’s hottest nightclubs, Saint offers gourmet dining, nightly DJs, and the chance to lounge on MR. DOOLEY’S BOSTON TAVERN, 77 Broad St., Financial overstuffed couches (and even beds) in private and public District, 617-338-5656. Open nightly. Fri & Sat $3 cover. rooms. Sun—Spice Sundays; Mon—Sin Mondays; Thu—

This authentic Irish pub features a charming ambiance, Plush Thursdays; Fri—Pure Fridays; Sat—B&T Saturdays. clubs & bar

s 13 imported drafts on tap and live music six nights a week. Journalists, politicians and young professionals find Mr. SANCTUARY, 189 State St., 617-573-9333. Spread out Dooley’s to be “a great place for a pint and a chat.” over three floors, Sanctuary bills itself as “Boston’s “The Original” “The Replica” premiere dining and lounge experience,” featuring a full 84 Beacon Street Faneuil Hall Marketplace THE OAK BAR, Fairmont Copley Plaza Hotel, 138 St. James menu, outdoor seating for lunch and dinner, and resident Beacon Hill Downtown Ave., Copley Square, 617-267-5300. A favorite among the DJs Thu–Sat. Voted one of the sexiest bars in Boston by (617) 227-9605 (617) 227-0150 fine scotch and cigar crowd, The Oak Bar is a Boston favorite Boston magazine. for upscale lounging. Tue–Thu 8 p.m.–midnight and Fri & Sat Offering Visitors of Boston: 8:30 p.m.–12:20 a.m.—Diane Fischer performs. No cover. • Award-Winning Burgers & Bloody Marys GAY AND LESBIAN • A Selection of Draught Beers on Tap THE PURPLE SHAMROCK, 1 Union St., 617-227-2060. • Great Casual Atmosphere Located on the Freedom Trail, The Purple Shamrock offers CLUB CAFE, 209 Columbus Ave., 617-536-0966. Thu–Sat an escape from the nearby activity of Quincy Market. Menu TOP OF THE HUB: This renowned restaurant 9 p.m.–2 a.m. No cover. In the back of the 209 restaurant, Pub • Restaurant • Gift Shop www.cheersboston.com s clubs & bar items include burgers, sandwiches, hearty pastas, fresh atop the Prudential Center in the Back Bay you’ll find the Moonshine and Satellite lounges, voted “Best seafood, tender steaks and more. After dark, The Purple features live jazz every night along with its of Boston” by Boston magazine and The Improper Bostonian TM & © 2005 Paramount Pictures Corporation. All rights reserved. Shamrock has nightly entertainment, including a mix of live breathtaking views. Refer to listing, left. for best gay and lesbian nightspot. music, karaoke and DJs. THE EAGLE, 520 Tremont St., 617-542-4494. This popular TOP OF THE HUB, 800 Boylston St., 617-536-1775. Listen South End bar is an institution in the gay bar scene, with a to the sounds of live jazz seven nights a week while experi- addition, Liquor Store, where you can ride Boston’s only relaxed, dive-y atmosphere and lots of local color. encing the breathtaking view atop Boston’s Prudential mechanical bull. Party Mardi Gras-style on Boston’s version Center. Featuring a midnight menu, Sun–Wed ’til 1 a.m.; of Bourbon Street JACQUES CABARET, 79 Broadway St., 617-426-8902. Thu–Sat ’til 2 a.m. Mon–Sat 11 a.m., Sun noon–midnight. $5 Mon, $6 Tue–Thu, BOSTON BILLIARD CLUB, 126 Brookline Ave., 617-536- $10 Fri–Sat. Cash only. Featured in Modern Bride as the POOL. Ranked Number One Billiard Club in the country by “best place for a bachelorette party,” Jacques Cabaret NIGHTCLUBS Billiards Digest, this nightspot is perfect for pool aficionados allows its patrons to mingle and disco-dance with drag- and novices alike. Mon—free lessons; Wed—Ladies’ Night: queens. Live music every weekend. Mon—Cabaret drag ARIA, 246 Tremont St., 617-338-7080. Tue–Sun 11 p.m.– each lady gets 25 percent off table time. Four ladies per show; Tue—Karaoke. 2 a.m. Cover: $5–15. Call for age restrictions. Located in the table play for free; Sun–Thu—League Night. basement of the Wilbur Theatre, this nightspot features a MACHINE, 1254 Boylston St., 617-536-1950. Mon, Thu–Sat 10 chic decor with plush red couches and dance music—from BOSTON ROCKS NIGHTCLUB, 245 Quincy Market (near p.m–2 a.m. Cover varies. Cash only. Featuring two dance floors, International to House. Dress to impress. Faneuil Hall), 617-726-1110. Thu–Sat 9 p.m.–2 a.m. Cover four bars, six pool tables, pinball machines, video games and varies. 21+. Where Boston comes to rock. Fri—6one7 pres- theme nights, this club offers Boston’s gay and lesbian party- AVALON, 15 Lansdowne St., 617-262-2424. Thu–Sun 10 ents The Loft with R & B and hip-hop music; Sat—Shotgun goers a plethora of nightlife options. Mon—DJ Otis, Strip-Pool p.m.–2 a.m. Cover: $10–20. 19+ on Thu & Fri; 21+ on Sat & Saturdays with VJ Johnnie Walker Black spinning Top 40. No tournament; Thu at 10 p.m.—Karaoke with Eve Adams; Fri— Sun. One of Boston’s premier nightclubs featuring Euro and hats allowed. DJ Dovah and DJ Darrin Friedman; Sat—DJ Manuel Santiago Top 40 dance nights. It’s also the city’s largest club venue for and International night featuring DJ J.R. Vega. live music acts. Thu—Hip-hop night; Fri—renowned DJs GAME ON, 82 Lansdowne St., 617–351-7001. Daily 11:30 from around the world at Avaland; Sat—Tease with DJ a.m.–2 a.m. The ultimate for any sports club enthusiasts: a PARADISE, 180 Mass Ave., Cambridge, 617-868-3000. Adilson; Sun—Gay Night. bar/restaurant/nightclub built inside Fenway Park. The Sun–Wed 7 p.m.– 1 a.m., Thu–Sat 7 p.m.–2 a.m. No cover. newest jewel in the renovation of the Fenway area, this Not to be confused with Allston’s popular live music club The AXIS, 13 Lansdowne St., 617-262-2437. Mon & Thu–Sun 10 nightspot offers a cool and sleek spot in which to sample a Paradise, here male strippers perform nightly at this rowdy p.m.–2 a.m. Cover: $5–20. 19+. Mon—Static, gay night; full menu, and watch the Sox and other sporting events on Cambridge club. Groove to Top 40 beats Thu–Sat. Thu—International College Night, featuring house music; any number of big-screen TVs. Fri—Flavor Fridays, hip-hop, Top 40, reggaeton; Sat— RAMROD, 1254 Boylston St., 617-266-2986. Daily noon– Seductive Saturdays, featuring reggae, R&B. JAKE IVORY’S, 9 Lansdowne St., 617-247-1222. Open 2 a.m. This is no place to bring your mom. The largest Thu–Sat. Cover: $5–8, table reservations available. Come leather bar on the East Coast, Ramrod enforces a strict dress THE ALLEY, One Boylston Place, 617-351-7000. Thu–Sat join the crowds who marvel at (and sing along with) the code (leather required for the back room on weekends). 10 p.m.–2 a.m. Cover: $5–10. Located in the famous dueling pianists at this club in the heart of nightlife central, Wed—new-wave and dance beats with DJ Mac; Thu— Boylston Street alleyway, this one-stop nightspot includes the Lansdowne Street. Great for a casual night out, after work trance night with DJ Jason Taylor; Fri—DJ Danae Jacovidis ___ Big Easy Bar, Sugar Shack, Sweetwater Cafe and the newest parties or friendly get-togethers. in the backroom; Sun—Mandance with DJ Duo Freespace. ___ 38 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 39

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Archives and is ideal for fans of history or genealogy. Special MCMULLEN MUSEUM OF ART, Boston College, 140 Common- exhibits: John Adams: Atlas of American Independence; wealth Ave., Chestnut Hill, 617-552-8100. Mon–Fri 11 a.m.–4 Archaeology of the Central Artery Project: Highway to the Past. p.m., Sat & Sun noon–5 p.m. Free admission. Gallery tours held every Fri at 12:30 p.m. This museum is lauded for presenting inter- GIBSON HOUSE MUSEUM, 137 Beacon St., 617-267-6338. disciplinary exhibits that spark new questions and is renowned for Open Wed–Sun for guided tours at 1, 2 & 3 p.m. its European, Asian and American collections. Special exhibit: The Admission: $7; students & seniors $5; children $2. A Power of Conversation, Jewish Women and their Salons. National Historic Landmark, the Gibson House, completed in 1860, is an unspoiled, single-family Victorian row house in THE MUSEUM OF AFRO-AMERICAN HISTORY, African Meeting the Back Bay. Now a museum offering guided tours of its House, 46 Joy St. (corner of Smith Court), Beacon Hill, 617-725- four floors, the house retains a perfectly preserved 19th 0022. www.afroammuseum.org. Open Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–4 p.m. century kitchen, scullery, butler’s pantry and water closets, Free admission; donations welcome. Explore the history of as well as formal rooms and private family quarters filled Boston’s 19th-century African-American community at the with the Gibsons’ original furniture and personal posses- African Meeting House, the oldest African-American church still sions. Special exhibit: Treasures from the Gibson House standing in the United States. In addition, there are tour maps Museum, drawings by Nan Freeman. available for the Black Heritage Trail. Special exhibit: Words of Thunder: William Lloyd Garrison and the Ambassadors of INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ART, 955 Boylston St., Abolition, celebrating the life, achievements and challenges of 617-266-5152. Open Tue, Wed & Fri noon–5 p.m., Thu ’til 9 famed Boston abolitionist William Lloyd Garrison. p.m.; Sat & Sun 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $7; students & seniors $5; children (under 12) free; Thu 5–9 p.m. free. THE MUSEUM OF THE NATIONAL CENTER OF AFRO- Installations of contemporary paintings, sculptures and pho- AMERICAN ARTISTS, 300 Walnut Ave., Roxbury, 617-442- tographs change regularly. Special exhibits: beginning Sep 8614. Open Tue–Sun 1–5 p.m.; by appointment for groups.

21—Utopia, Utopia=One World, One War, One Army, One Admission: $4; students & seniors $3. Housed in the former Oak m Dress, works by Swiss artist Thomas Hirschhorn; Bend Mansion, a neo-Gothic structure built in the early 1870s,

Momentum 5: Paul Chan, the Hong Kong-born artist displays this museum holds a slide archive and an extensive collection of useums & g INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ART: On politically charged video works, digital animation and draw- African artifacts, prints and drawings; it also hosts national and DeCordova Museum and September 21, the ICA debuts an exhibit by video artist ings; On view at the Charlestown Navy Yard—The Secret international traveling exhibits. Sculpture Park Paul Chan as part of its ongoing Momentum series, Ark of Icon Park, an installation by Jerry Beck. which is dedicated to supporting the development of MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, 465 Huntington Ave., 617-267-9300. 51 Sandy Pond Road, Lincoln, MA new artists and fresh ideas. Refer to listing, right. ISABELLA STEWART GARDNER MUSEUM, 280 The Fenway, Open Sat–Tue 10 a.m.–4:45 p.m., Wed–Fri 10 a.m.–9:45 p.m. decordova.org 781/259-8355 617-566-1401. Open Tue–Sun 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: (Thu & Fri after 5 p.m., west wing only). Admission (includes two alleries $10; weekends $11; seniors $7; students with I.D. $5; children visits in a 10-day period): $15; college students & seniors $13; (under 18) free. Visitors named Isabella are admitted free. Thu & Fri after 5 p.m., $2 discount; Wed after 4 p.m., pay as you BOSTON Commissioned by Boston aristocrat Isabella Stewart Gardner and wish; children (under 18) $6.50 on weekdays before 3 p.m., free modeled after a 15th-century Venetian palace, the museum at all other times. Separate ticketing for Gund Gallery exhibit. BOSTON CHILDREN’S MUSEUM, Museum Wharf, 300 exhibits 2,500 objects, including the works of Rembrandt, Botticelli, The museum houses an outstanding collection of paintings, Congress St., 617-426-8855. Open daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m., Fri ’til Raphael, Titian and Matisse. Special exhibit: beginning Sep 23— prints, sculptures, furnishings and other artwork from ancient

9 p.m. Admission: $9; children (2–15) & seniors $7; children Variations on a Theme by Sol Lewitt and Paula Robison, which times through the present, and boasts the most comprehensive alleries (one-year-olds only) $2; children (under 1) free; Fri 5–9 p.m. explores connections between the visual and musical arts. Special collection of Asiatic art in the world. Special exhibits: Sounds of (Family Night) $1. Museum closed Sep 12. The museum fea- events: Sep 18 at 1:30 p.m.—Pianist Cecile Licad; Sep 25 at the Silk Road, musical instruments of Asia; American West, Dust tures a variety of educational and entertaining activities for chil- 1:30 p.m.—Violinist Frank Huang and pianist Carol Wong. and Dreams; A Much Recorded War, The Russo-Japanese War in dren, including interactive exhibits that allow children to learn Tickets: $20; seniors $14; students $10; children (5–17) $5. History and Imagery; Ansel Adams, American photographer; about science, history and culture through a hands-on experi- Things I Love, The Many Collections of William I. Koch. ence. Special exhibits: Pattern Wizardry explores the wonder- JOHN F. KENNEDY PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM, off useums & g land of colors, shapes and sound; Adventures with Clifford The Morrissey Boulevard, next to UMass Boston, Dorchester, 866- MUSEUM OF SCIENCE, Science Park, 617-723-2500. Open Big Red Dog; Boats Afloat allows kids to explore urban water 535-1960. www.jfklibrary.org. Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. daily from 9 a.m.–5 p.m., Fri ’til 9 p.m. Admission: $14; seniors m environments; Boston Black: A City Connects celebrates Admission: $10; students & seniors $8; children (13–17) $7; $12; children (3–11) $11; children (under 3) free. Planetarium, Boston’s many black cultures; Amazing Castle, an enchanting children (under 12) free. This museum portrays Kennedy’s life, laser show and Omni theater tickets: $8.50; seniors $7.50; chil- world where people travel on horseback and dragons protect leadership and legacy in 21 exhibits, three theaters, 20 video dren (3–11) $6.50. Combination ticket prices and evening dis- castles. Refer to Kids Corner in Currently for special events. presentations and more. Special exhibits: JFK in World War II, counts available. Interactive science exhibits, plus laser and featuring a selection of materials from JFK’s military service in astronomy shows in the Charles Hayden Planetarium. Special BOSTON CITYPASS, www.citypass.com. Visit six of Boston’s the South Pacific; Presents for a President and a First Lady, a exhibits: Beyond the X-Ray; Butterfly Garden, ticketed separate- best attractions for one low price. Save 50 percent and avoid display of 65 state gifts presented to the President and Mrs. ly: $4; Playing by the Rules: Fish, Fads and Fireflies. At the ticket lines. Booklet price: $39; youth (3–11) $19.50. Ticket Kennedy by foreign leaders from around the world. Mugar Omni Theater: Antarctica; Fighter Pilot; Yellowstone. Refer booklets are available at the first attraction visited and are valid to Film listings in Currently for complete schedule. Showing at for a year. The CityPass ticket booklet includes admission to six LARZ ANDERSON AUTO MUSEUM, Larz Anderson Park, 15 the Planetarium: Countdown to Supernova; The Sky Tonight. At major attractions: the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Newton St., Brookline, 617-522-6547. Open Tue–Sun 10 a.m.– the Wright 3D Theater: Mars!; Bugs! Museum, New England Aquarium, Museum of Fine Arts, 5 p.m. Admission: $5; students, seniors and children (6–18) $3; Museum of Science, Skywalk Observatory at the Prudential children (5 and under) free. Admission to the Lawn events: $7; SPORTS MUSEUM OF NEW ENGLAND, 5th and 6th floor premi- Center and Harvard Museum of Natural History. children $5. Fee includes admission to all museum exhibits. The um seating levels, TD Banknorth Garden, Causeway Street, 617- oldest collection of historic automobiles in the nation is dis- 624-1234. Open daily 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission on the hour COMMONWEALTH MUSEUM, Massachusetts Archives Building, played in the owner’s original home. Special exhibit: only, until 3 p.m. Hours altered during TD Banknorth Garden 220 Morrissey Blvd., 617-727-9268. Mon–Fri from 9 a.m.–5 L’automobile—A Century of Innovation and Style celebrates the events, call ahead. Admission: $6; seniors & children (6–17) $4; p.m., second and fourth Sat of the month ’til 3 p.m. (except holi- French automobile industry. Lawn events: Sep 16–18— children (under 6) free. The Sports Museum showcases the rich day weekends). Free admission. Across from the JFK Presidential AltWheels Festival, celebrating environmentally-friendly cars; sports heritage of New England through an unparalleled collec- ___ Library, this museum houses the collection of the Massachusetts Sep 24—Pontiac GTO Day; Sep 25—Volkswagon Van Day. tion of artifacts, multimedia and works of art. Exhibits include ___ 40 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 41

the Boston Bruins Hall of Fame portraits, the Boston Garden Special exhibits: Killing Ground, Photographs of the Civil War and Penalty Box, New England’s Olympic Heroes and much more. the Changing American Landscape by John Huddleston; Zeno’s Paradox, by Robert Arnold; Saga, The Journey of Arno Rafael U.S.S. CONSTITUTION MUSEUM, Charlestown Navy Yard, Charles- Minkkinen, Photographs 1970–2005; through Sep 26—Abstract

town, 617-426-1812. Open daily 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Free admission. . 1878 Elements, The Dr. Beatrice H. Barrett Collection of Art. C

The museum preserves the treasures of “Old Ironsides,” the U.S. ,

Navy’s flagship and the world’s oldest commissioned warship. VE NATIONAL HERITAGE MUSEUM, 33 Marrett Road, Lexington, O L

Includes weapons, documents, journals and more. Interactive G 781-861-6559. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m.

exhibits allow visitors to load and fire a cannon, try out a sailor’s A Free admission. Devoted to presenting exhibitions on American sleeping quarters and virtually command the Constitution in battle. history and popular culture as a way of preserving our national

WITH heritage. Special exhibits: Blue Monday, Doing Laundry in America; Old Glory, July 1942 Magazine Covers; Teenage

CAMBRIDGE INGER Hoboes in the Great Depression, Materials from the Uys Family S

, Collection; September 11, Bearing Witness to History. Due to limited parking, it is best to take the Red Line when

traveling to Harvard, Central or Kendall squares. The EGAS PEABODY ESSEX MUSEUM, East India Square, Salem, 866- Cambridge Discovery Booth located at the Harvard Square D 745-1876. Daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $13; seniors $11; “T” entrance provides additional information. students $9; children (16 and under) free. The nation’s oldest DGAR continually operating museum boasts a brand-new wing with a BUSCH-REISINGER MUSEUM, Werner Otto Hall, 32 Quincy St. -E 190-seat auditorium and a glass-covered atrium. The collection (enter through the Fogg Art Museum), 617-495-9400. Open showcases African, Asian, Pacific Island and American folk and

Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–5 p.m., Sun 1–5 p.m. Tours: Mon–Fri at 1 ERMAIN decorative art; a maritime collection dating back to the muse-

p.m. Admission: $6.50; seniors & college students $5; children -G um’s earliest days; and the first collection of Native American art

(under 18) free; free Sat 10 a.m. A museum devoted to promot- in the hemisphere. Special exhibits: All of My Life, contemporary m ing the enjoyment and critical understanding of Central and AIRE works by Native American artists; In Nature’s Company; Air IL H

Northern European artists, with an emphasis on German-speak- Lines; Yin Yu Tang, the 16-bedroom home of a prosperous useums & g ing countries. Special exhibits: Extra Ordinary Every Day: The Chinese merchant of the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911), ticketed Bauhaus at the Busch-Reisinger; beginning Sep 17— SACKLER MUSEUM: Harvard University’s separately: $4; The Kingdom of Siam, The Art of Central Thailand Stratification: An Installation of Works since 1960. Sackler Museum presents Degas at Harvard, a 1350–1800; Display of a Bengali Scroll, by artist Maduhusudan display of the French master’s works owned by Chitrakar, reounting the tragedy of 9/11; Special event: Sep 20 FOGG ART MUSEUM, Quincy and Broadway streets, 617- the institution. Refer to listing, below. from 7–9 p.m.—Slideshow and discussion with Pulitzer Prize- 495-9400. Tours: Mon–Fri at 11 a.m.; see Busch-Reisinger winning cartoonist Art Spiegelman. alleries Museum for hours and admission fees. The museum displays European and American masterpieces from the Middle Ages THE ROSE ART MUSEUM, Brandeis University, 415 South St., to the present and hosts concerts and guided tours. Special Under 35. Special event: Sep 25 from 2–4 p.m.—The Wonders Waltham, 781-736-3434. Tue–Sun noon–5 p.m. Admission: $3; exhibits: American Art at Harvard; 18th Century European of Electricity and Magnetism, a free demonstration for kids and museum members and children (under 16) free. The Rose Ceramics Painting; A New Kind of Historical Evidence: families about the forces of electricity and magnetism. boasts a collection of modern and contemporary art by artists Photographs from the Carpenter Center Collection. including de Kooning, Rauschenberg and Warhol. Special

SACKLER MUSEUM, Quincy and Broadway streets, 617-495- exhibits: beginning Sep 15—Monsters of Paradise, works by alleries HARVARD MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY, 26 Oxford St., 9400. Tours: Mon–Fri at 2 p.m.; see Busch-Reisinger Museum for Fred Tomaselli; “Post” and After, Contemporary Art from the 617-495-3045. Daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $7.50; college hours and admission fees. Designed by James Stirling, Britain’s Brandeis University Collection. students & seniors $6; children (3–18) $5; free Sun 9 famous post-modernist architect, the museum houses ancient 1 a.m.–noon and Wed 3–5 p.m. Among the museum’s 17 gal- Oriental and Islamic collections. Special exhibits: Forging the New, SALEM WITCH MUSEUM, 19 /2 Washington Square North, leries is the internationally acclaimed Ware Collection of East Asian Painting in the 20th Century; Degas at Harvard, a dis- Salem, 978-744-1692. Daily 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Admission: $6.50; Blaschka Glass Models of Plants, a unique collection of over play of Harvard University’s collection of paintings, drawings, seniors $6; children (6–14) $4.50. Life-size stage settings and useums & g 3,000 glass flower models created between 1886 and 1936. scuptures, and photographs by renowned artist Edgar Degas; historically accurate narration recreate the hysteria of the Salem Special exhibits: Dodos, Trilobites & Meteorites: Treasures of Silver and Shawls, India, Europe, and the Colonial Art Market. Witch Trials and executions of 1692. Translations available in m Nature and Science at Harvard; Thoreau’s Walden: A Journey Japanese, French, German, Italian and Spanish. Special exhibit: in Photographs by Scot Miller. Special event: Sep 18 from Witches, Evolving Perceptions. 1–5 p.m.—Third annual Harvard Museums Community Day, BEYOND BOSTON featuring free admission to all six Harvard museums. CONCORD MUSEUM, 200 Lexington Road, Concord, 978-369- GALLERIES MIT LIST VISUAL ARTS CENTER, 20 Ames St., 617-253-4680. 9763. Mon–Sun 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $8; seniors & stu- Tue–Sun noon–6 p.m.; Fri ’til 8 p.m. Free admission. One of dents with I.D. $7; children (6–17) $5; family rates available. BARBARA KRAKOW GALLERY, 10 Newbury St., 617-262-4490. Boston’s premier showcases for contemporary art, the List Ample free parking on Cambridge Turnpike. Relive Concord’s Tue–Sat 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. The Barbara Krakow Gallery attracts Center reflects MIT’s position as a cutting-edge research institu- history, from Native American habitation and European settle- top contemporary artists from around the world, showcasing tion by presenting works from the world’s leading contemporary ment to the days of Emerson, Thoreau, the Alcotts and work that focuses on minimalism and conceptualism. Special artists. Special exhibit: through Sep 18—Student Loan Art Hawthorne. Special exhibit: David Sibley’s Birds. Special event: exhibit: Sculptures by Donald Judd. Program Exhibition and Lottery. Sep 18—Out Walking with David Sibley, a walk through the Great Meadows National Wildlife Refuge with the bird expert, BERENBERG GALLERY, 4 Clarendon St., 617-536-0800. THE MIT MUSEUM, 265 Mass. Ave., 617-253-4444. Mon–Fri tickets: $65. Tue–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m. The Berenberg Gallery brings to Boston 10 a.m.–5 p.m., Sat & Sun noon–5 p.m. Admission: $5; students, the dynamic creations of contemporary folk and self-taught seniors & youth (5–18) $2. Exhibits interpret themes and ideas DECORDOVA MUSEUM AND SCULPTURE PARK, 51 Sandy Pond artists. Special exhibit: New Ground, works by Jennifer Harrison. related to MIT research and activities. Ongoing exhibits: Road, Lincoln, 781-259-8355. Admission: $9; seniors, students & Holography, The Light Fantastic; Robots and Beyond, Exploring children (6–12) $6. Sculpture Park: open sunrise to sunset, free BOSTON SCULPTORS GALLERY, 486 Harrison Ave., 617-482- Artificial Intelligence at MIT; Thinkapalooza; Gestural Engineering, admission. Tour one of the largest contemporary art museums 7781. Tue–Sat 11 a.m.–6 p.m. A sculptors’ cooperative that has ___ The Sculpture of Arthur Ganson. Special exhibit: 35 Innovators and the only permanent public sculpture park in New England. served as an alternative venue for innovative solo sculpture ___ 42 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 43

exhibitions since 1992. Special exhibits: Trans/Lucent, works by Niho Kozuro; Late Flower Alphabet, works by Murray Dewart. ArtsArts && AntiquesAntiques BROMFIELD ART GALLERY, 27 Thayer St., 617-451-3605. Wed–Sat noon–5 p.m. Boston’s oldest artist-run gallery features shows by members of the cooperative, gallery features shows by members of the cooperative, while exhibitions by visiting artists are selected by current members. Special exhibit: Members’ Show, featuring works by 17 artists.

CHILDS GALLERY, 169 Newbury St., 617-266-1108. Tue–Fri INTERNATIONAL POSTER GALLERY 9 a.m.–6 p.m.; Mon & Sat 10 a.m.–5 p.m. The longest-running World Leading Collection of Original Vintage Posters of the commercial Newbury Street galleries, Childs has one of Internationally renowned collection of Art Nouveau, Art Deco and the largest inventories of oil paintings, drawings, watercolors, prints and sculpture in the United States. Avant-Garde posters from Italy, Switzerland, France, Holland, the Soviet Union and more. Dating from 1890 to the present; subjects range from HOWARD YEZERSKI GALLERY, 14 Newbury St., 3rd Floor, food and beverages, fashion and travel to war and propaganda. Special 617-262-0550. Tue–Sat 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Features exhibitions throughout the year. contemporary art, including photography, sculpture and prints. Special exhibit: Portraits by Peter Hujar. 205 Newbury Street (between Exeter and Fairfield streets) • 617-375-0076 Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–6 p.m. • www.internationalposter.com INTERNATIONAL POSTER GALLERY, 205 Newbury St., 617-375-0076. www.internationalposter.com. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–6 p.m. This internationally recognized fine art poster gallery displays original vintage posters from the 1890s through to post-World War II modern masters. Special exhibit: beginning Sep 15—Masterpieces of Graphic Design. INTERNATIONAL POSTER GALLERY: On L’ATTITUDE GALLERY, 218 Newbury St., 617-927-4400. September 15, this Newbury Street gallery Tue–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun & Mon noon–5 p.m. Features opens its new Masterpieces of Graphic Design contemporary sculpture, crafts and art for the home, garden and exhibit. Refer to listing, left. MASSACHUSETTS ANTIQUES commercial environments. The gallery also boasts an outdoor alleries sculpture garden. Over 75 U.S. and international artists are rep- COOPERATIVE resented in various mediums, including glass, ceramics, wood, More than 125 dealers of quality antiques and collectibles. “A don’t-miss stone, mixed media and textiles. Special exhibits: Vistas PHOTOGRAPHIC RESOURCE CENTER, Boston University, 832 for lovers of antiques... everything you can think of under one roof.” Revisited, New Work by Russ Vogt and Karen Ehart. Commonwealth Ave., 617-353-0700. Tue, Wed, & Fri 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thu 10 a.m.–8 p.m., Sat & Sun noon–5 p.m. Admission: $3. (Where magazine) “The best of the suburban lot!” (Yankee Magazine & MILLS GALLERY, Boston Center for the Arts, 539 Tremont St., 617- PRC exhibitions and educational programs are guided by a philo- Newsletter) “Browsers will find everything... [Shopping here is] like 426-8835. Wed & Thu noon–5 p.m., Fri & Sat noon–10 p.m., Sun sophical inquiry into the intersection of photography with other exploring a wonderful, cluttered attic...” (The Boston Globe Magazine). noon–5 p.m. The BCA presents exciting contemporary works by aesthetic, professional and critical discourses. Special exhibit: established and emerging local, regional, national, and international beginning Sep 16—2005 PRC Benefit Auction Preview Exhibition. Only 8 miles from Boston: Mass Pike (90) W; 100 Felton Street, Waltham • 781-893-8893 128 N to Exit 26 (Rt. 20 E); right on Moody Street; 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; Thu ’til 8 p.m.; closed Tue • www.massantiques.com visual artists, mounting approximately six large-scale exhibitions in the right at Felton (first light). 2,200 square foot Mills Gallery each year. Special exhibits: Standing PUCKER GALLERY, 171 Newbury St., 617-267-9473. Mon–Sat On One Foot, works by Babara Grad, Heejung Kim, Jedediah Morfit 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m.; Sun 1–5 p.m. Featuring works by Israeli, and Lauren O’Neal; Circumference, works by Steve Locke. American and internationally known contemporary artists. useums & g Named by the Boston Phoenix as one of the best art galleries in NEILSEN GALLERY, 179 Newbury St., 617-266-4835. Tue–Sat the city: “You can make a case for the Pucker Gallery as m 10 a.m.– 5:30 p.m. Renowned for its fine collection of contem- Boston’s best gallery—though it’s really more like a wonderful porary paintings, drawings and sculptures. Special exhbit: miniature museum.” Special exhibit: How Great is Our Joy, beginning Sep 17—A Wolf in the Irises by Duane Slick. porcelain works by Brother Thomas. THE SOCIETY OF ARTS AND CRAFTS NEWBURY FINE ARTS, 29 Newbury St., 617-536-0210. Mon–Sat SOCIETY OF ARTS AND CRAFTS, 175 Newbury St., 617-266- Contemporary American Craft 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun noon–5 p.m. Newbury Fine Arts deals in a 1810. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. The oldest Ranging from functional to sculptural, SAC’s first floor gallery variety of media and styles, everything from painting and printmak- non-profit crafts organization in the country (more than 100 ing to sculpture and collage, and constantly builds relationships years old) specializes in contemporary American crafts. The represents over 250 artists working in clay, glass, metal, wood and with new artists to expose their clients to the best and brightest jewelry, furniture, glass and ceramics range from cutting edge fiber from across the United States. The second floor exhibition artists in the business. Special exhibit: New Contemporary to traditional and from functional to sculptural. Special exhibit: gallery features four curated shows each year. Collections by Hessam Abrishami, Roderick O’Flaherty, Paul Northwest Artists. Kimberly 175 Newbury Street (between Dartmouth & Exeter Streets) Chester, Greg Calibey, Ted Jeremenko and Yingzhao Liu. Keyworth VOSE GALLERIES, 238 Newbury St., 617-536-6176. Mon–Fri silver, gold 617-266-1810 • Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. PEPPER GALLERY, 38 Newbury St., 617-236-4495. Tue–Fri 8:30 a.m.– 5:30 p.m.; Sat 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Established in and enamel www.societyofcrafts.org pendant 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m.; Sat 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Committed to present- 1841, Vose Galleries—the oldest family-owned art gallery in the ing contemporary representational and abstract works by living United States—specializes in owned art gallery in the United artists, the gallery rotates its exhibitions every five weeks to States—specializes in owned art gallery in the United States— represent different members of the artistic community, both specializes in American artists from the 18th, 19th and early established and up-and-coming. Special exhibit: Paintings and 20th centuries. Special exhibits: Vose Contemporary, group ___ sculpture by Jim Zingarelli. exhibition; Landscapes by John F. Enser. SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION 44 PANORAMA

CAMBRIDGE A A CHARLESTOWN A & SOMERVILLE •

• • B

B B •

15 C • • LEGEND 1 Freedom Trail & Sites • W City Water Taxi Stops Charles River Basin C Pedestrian Bridges C D R Public Restrooms 16

21 Hwy. Entrances & Exits • LEGEND • MBTA Subway Stops • Charles River Basin T Green Line T Orange Line Pedestrian Bridges R Public Restrooms E MBTA Subway Stops D D T Red Line T Orange Line T Blue Line T Green Line • 7 • 8 • 9 • 10 • 11 FENWAY/ F To Lowell To Reading, Haverhill 93 To Newburyport, Rockport KENMORE SQUARE MBTA SUBWAY MAP • 2 C h P OAK GROVE e l se a P WOONDNDEERLRLAANDND West Medford P Malden Revere Beach P Wellington 1 Beachmont P G Sullivan is v Square 1A Suffolk Downs P a To Fitchburg P ALEWIFE D P r te n Orient Heights P e Porter C t n P Community College o LECHMERE lm Wood Island e 95 B y Harvard e lle rl i e v • v n a 128 to R Airport w Science Park W e IV F4 N E T R Central E o s m F n S North Station u r to B C D a a I Maverickle h m w D tt lt i C u n e E h a g N BOWDOIN o S W h W AIRPORT a st u em o Haymarkeet W r TERMINALS & o t W Kendall/MIT h / W d o s o le l r o S B i rc a a W B l u e ts de n a U d s d r 90 n s s Gov't L n e r te d S h B C T e A ra b u r W q i U e r 1 o b u n nK Center a B R u a a g E t Aquarium d Logan H A b r to a rae Charles/MGH a Harvard Ave e n s ln e n t m S C International C i N o o State* lv t BOSTONE B o e r. Airport e C l re r l o id Park St L w NCOLLEGEio r g in t n e e o e t t e n w S r W n C a H to to S y i n g t. o g in M p H CLEVhC ELAC ND CIRCLEh a le y Downtown lh e s C ry y n D a a ’s e en n W A s Crossing sdt tr r / F1 F2 sn e lin IC u Fenway g A R t t • H o * e il Longwood Prudential n B Chinatown South B se l o SL2 e r Symphony Backyl NE Medical Station 90 BOSTON MARINE a vo s c Northeastern Bay to INDUSTRIAL PARK P o ir n Center B n Museum of Fine Arts ll ro s Longwood Hu o fi Mass Ave E. Berkeley St o k e Brigham Circle Broadway SL3 T m l ld ha in CITY POINT ng e Newton St Hi Ruggles o P B H T ro i o lls Roxbury Mass Ave k Crossing Andrew J lin e MMelelnneaea CCasass BBlvdlvd P V HEATH E i Jackson Sq lla DDUDLEYUDLEY SQ g e Stony Brook JFK/UMass Uphams F2 P LEGEND Green St Corner H Savin Hill ig To Needhamh FOREST HILLS P la n Terminal Station d P Fields • Corner Wheelchair Transit Station B Accessible e lle v u Shawmut y e c R n o i Transfer Station Parking s Morton St. u l Q in d o a ASHMONT T le V il maps la N g e K Commuter Rail Cedar Grove North Quincy P Connection Commuter Hyde Park e P Rail Service v 93 l A Wollaston P *Boylston: Accessible for Silver Line Washington Fairmount a r tr e 1 Street only. n P tl e d u *State: Blue line wheelchair access outbound C B side only. Inbound riders transfer to outbound Readville R N y n Quincy Center P train at Government Center. Exit State outbound Readville A le o P P l lt A a i T V M • Water Transportation Services T Endicott A F1 Hingham Shipyard to M Quincy Adams P Rowes Wharf, Boston F2 Quincy & Hull to Logan Airport & 95 Dedham Long Wharf, Boston Corp. Center 128 t S F4 Charlestown Navy Yard to n Long Wharf, Boston e Islington p a For customer service & travel information 93 1 C call 617-222-3200, 1-800-392-6100, P BRAINTREE L To Forge Park Route 128 TTY 617-222-5146 or visit the MBTA 3 web site at http://www.mbta.com 95 For MBTA Police call 617-222-1212 To Attleboro, To Middleborough, To Kingston/ ___ Stoughton, Providence 24 Lakeville Plymouth 46 PANORAMA

5 • 6 • 7 • 8 • 9 • 10 • 11 • 12 • 13 • 14 • 15 CHARLESTOWN (see page 46) D LEGEND D 1 Freedom Trail & Sites Black Heritage Trail Pedestrian Area 14 • W City Water Taxi Stops • Charles River Basin Pedestrian Bridges 13 R Public Restrooms

E MBTA Subway Stops E T Red Line T Orange Line T Blue Line T Green Line • 12 • CAMBRIDGE (see page 47) F F FENWAY/KENMORE SQUARE (see page 47) • • 11

2 10

9 4 5 6 G 7 G 3

8 1 • •

H H

• •

J J

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K K

• •

L L

MAP INDEX POINTS OF INTEREST Old City Hall G10 143 ADVERTISER INDEX GREATER BOSTON African Meeting House F9 100 Old Corner Bookstore G10 144 The Barking Crab H13 1 Arlington Street Church G8 Old North Church E11 145 Back Bay Station J7 Old South Meeting House G10 146 Caffe Pompei E11 2 Bank of America Pavilion K14 115 Old State House G11 147 Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse H8 3 Berklee College of Music H5 102 The Opera House H9 148 Berklee Performance Center H5 Park Street Church G10 149 Fajitas & ’Ritas H9 4 Black Falcon Cruise Port L15 Park Street Station G9 150 Florentine Café F12 5 Black Heritage Trail – – – F9 103 Paul Revere House E11 151 The Hungry i F8 6 Boston Center for the Arts J8 104 Paul Revere Mall E12 152 Boston City Hall F10 Post Office Square G11 153 Jasper White’s Summer Shack H5 7 Boston Common G9 Prudential Center H6 120 Jimmy’s Harborside K14 8 Boston Convention & Exhibition Ctr. K13 The Public Garden (Swan Boats) G8 Boston Design Center K15 Quincy Market G11 154 Lucca Restaurant F11 9 Boston Massacre Site G11 Robert Gould Shaw Memorial G9 155 Mamma Maria G12 10 Boston Public Library H6 Rowes Wharf H13 33 Restaurant & Lounge G6 11 Boston Tea Party Ship & Museum J12 105 Shubert Theatre J9 Boston University G2 Sightseeing boats G13 Advertiser map locator Bunker Hill Monument B9 Simmons College K3 156 Bunker Hill Pavilion (Charlestown map) C10 South Station Information Center J11 157 Central Burying Ground H9 State House G9 Eliot Suite Hotel H4 Charles Playhouse J9 Suffolk University F9 158 Embassy Suites Boston Logan Airport E15 Charlestown Navy Yard (Charlestown map) C11 Symphony Hall J5 159 The Fairmont Copley Plaza H7 Cheers Bar G8 TD Banknorth Garden E10 116 Fifteen Beacon Street G9 Children’s Museum J12 106 Tip O’Neill Building E9 160 Four Seasons Hotel H8 Christian Science Center J5 107 Transportation Building H9 Hampton Inn, Crosstown Center L7 Christopher Columbus Park F12 Trinity Church G7 161 The Harborside Inn G12 Citgo sign G3 USS Constitution (Charlestown map) D10 Hilton Boston Back Bay H5 Colonial Theatre H9 USS Constitution Museum D10 Hilton Boston Logan Airport F16 Conference Center at Harvard Medical J2 108 Wang Center for the Performing Arts J9 162 Holiday Inn Express L9 Copley Place J7 109 Wheelock College J2 163 Holiday Inn/Logan Airport D16 Copley Square H7 Wilbur Theatre J9 Holiday Inn/Brookline H1 Copley Theatre H7 World Trade Center J14 Holiday Inn Select/Government Center F9 Copps Hill Burial Ground E11 110 Zoo New England/Franklin Park Zoo L6 164 Holiday Inn/Somerville A6 Custom House Tower G12 111 Hotel Buckminster G3 Cutlter Majestic Theatre H9 CAMBRIDGE MAP Hotel Commonwealth G4 Downtown Crossing H10 Cambridge City Hall C4 Howard Johnson Lodge H3 Emerald Necklace J1-J11 CambridgeSide Galleria D7 Hyatt Harborside Hotel H15 Emerson College H9 112 Harvard Art Museums-Fogg/Sackler B3 165 Hyatt Regency Boston, Financial District H10 Emmanuel College J2 113 Harvard Museum of Natural History A3 166 John Hancock Conference Center H7 Exchange Conference Ctr. J15 114 Harvard Square B2 Jurys Boston H8 Faneuil Hall G11 Harvard University B2 Langham Hotel, Boston G11 Fenway Park H3 MIT E5 Lenox Hotel H6 Freedom Trail • • • • • G9 117 Marriott Courtyard H7 Government Center G10 HEALTHCARE Marriott’s Custom House G12 Granary Burial Ground G10 118 Beth Israel Deaconess Med. Ctr. J2 180 Marriott Quincy L9 Hatch Memorial Shell F7 Boston Medical Center L8 181 The Midtown Hotel J6 Haymarket (Open-air market) F11 Brigham & Women’s Hosp. K1 182 Millennium Bostonian Hotel F11 Horticultural Hall J5 119 Children’s Hospital K2 183 Milner Hotel H9 Huntington Theatre Co./BU Theatre K5 Dana Farber Cancer Institute K1 184 NINE ZERO Hotel G10 Hynes Convention Center H5 Harvard School of Public Health L2 185 Omni Parker House G10 Information Centers: Joslin Diabetes Center K1 184 Onyx Hotel E10 Boston Common G9 117 Longwood Medical area K2 Radisson Hotel H8 Prudential Center H6 120 Mass. Eye & Ear Infirmary E8 186 Ramada Inn Boston L9 National Park Service G11 121 Mass. General Hospital E8 187 Residence Inn by Marriott on Tudor Wharf D10 Logan Airport (Terminals A & E) F16,G16 122 New England Baptist Hosp. L1 188 Ritz Carlton Boston Common H10 Institute of Contemporary Art H5 123 New England Med. Ctr. J9 189 Ritz Carlton Hotel G8 International Place H12 124 Spaulding Rehabilitation Hosp. D9 190 Seaport Hotel K14 Isabella Stuart Gardner Museum K3 125 Sheraton Boston H6 JFK Federal Building F10 126 BOSTON LODGING Tage Inn Boston/Somerville A7 JFK Library L10 127 Best Western Boston K1 Tremont House J9

John Hancock Tower H7 128 Best Western Roadhouse Suites L8 Westin Hotel/Copley Plaza J7 maps Jordan Hall K5 Best Western Terrace Inn G1 Wyndham Boston Hotel G12 Jorge Hernandez Cultural Center K7 129 Boston Harbor Hotel G12 Wyndham Chelsea A12 Joseph Moakley Courthouse J13 Boston Marriot/Copley Place J7 Kenmore Square G3 Boston Marriot/Long Wharf F12 CAMBRIDGE LODGING Kings Chapel & Burial Gr. G10 130 Boston Park Plaza H8 Charles Hotel B1 Lansdowne Street H4 135 Brookline Courtyard by Marriott H1 Hampton Inn/Cambridge C7 Louisburg Square F8 136 The Bulfinch Clarion Hotel E9 Harvard Square Hotel B1 Mass. College of Art K3 137 Charlesmark Hotel H7 Hotel Marlowe D7 Museum of Afro-American History F9 100 Club Quarters G11 Hotel at MIT D4 Museum of Fine Arts K4 138 The Colonnade J6 Hyatt Regency/Cambridge E3 Museum of Science D8 139 Comfort Inn & Suites Boston/Airport D16 Inn at Harvard B2 New England Aquarium G13 Copley Square Hotel H7 Marriott/Cambridge Center E6 New England Conservatory of Music K5 140 Days Inn Boston B1 Radisson Hotel/Cambridge D2 New Old South Church G6 141 Doubletree Club Hotel Boston Bayside L9 Residence Inn by Marriott/Cambridge D6 North Station D9 Doubletree Club Hotel Boston Downtown J9 Royal Sonesta D7 Northeastern University K4 142 Doubletree Guests Suites E1 Sheraton Commander A1 ___ SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 51

SIGHTSEEING Whether it’s New England’s only three-hour, high-speed catamaran whale watch, a sunset or lunch cruise, a his- AIRPORT SPECIAL toric sightseeing tour or a visit to Boston’s unique Harbor Islands, BHC’s variety of cruises and convenient schedul- OWNTOWN TO OGAN ACK AY TO OGAN ing make it easy to fit a harbor cruise into your plans. D L : $20 B B L : $25

CHARLES RIVER BOAT TOURS, depart from CambridgeSide Galleria and The World Trade Center, 617-621-3001. Call for full schedule and ticket prices. Enjoy daily 60-minute sightseeing tours of Boston and Cambridge along the Charles River, or venture out into “The Best Ride Boston Harbor for a view of the city. Private charters also available. in Town” GONDOLA DI VENEZIA TOURS, Charles River Esplanade, 1-866-2-VENICE. Tours: Wed–Sun 2–11 p.m. Tickets: Traditional Tours $69 for two; Sunset Tours (without accordion player) $99 for two, (with accordion player) $139 for two; Bellisimo Tours $219 for two; all tours $15 each additional person. Tours depart from beneath the Arthur Fiedler Footbridge on the Esplanade. With authentic Venetian gondolas and an Old World approach to romance, these picturesque rides along the Esplanade Lagoon feature complimentary snacks.

LIBERTY FLEET OF TALL SHIPS, departs daily from Long PHOTO COURTESY OF THE MASS. OFFICE OF TRAVEL & TOURISM Wharf, 617-742-0333. Daily sails at noon, 3 p.m. and 6 ADAMS NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK: Visit p.m. Tickets: $30, children $18. Come aboard to relive the the home of two former presidents at this hidden days of Boston Tall Ships. Take the wheel, set the sails or gem in Quincy, just to the south of the city. Refer to just sit back and enjoy the sights and beauty of Boston Your own Private Limousine and Chauffeur listing, below. Harbor and her islands. Full cash bar available. from your downtown hotel to Logan Airport... MASSACHUSETTS BAY LINES, depart from 60 Rowes Wharf, 617-542-8000. Call for full schedule and ticket AMUSEMENT PARKS prices. Take a tour of the harbor as the captain narrates a 55-minute cruise. Observe the colorful Boston skyline on a N Luxurious Lincoln Town Car Fleet 5WITS, 186 Brookline Ave., 617-375-WITS. Sun & Mon 11 sunset cruise, dance the night away on a music cruise a.m.–8 p.m., Wed & Thu 11 a.m.–11 p.m., Fri & Sat 11 a.m. Thu–Sat, or swoon under the stars on a moonlight cruise N Courteous, Reliable Service to midnight. Tickets: $12–20. Combining the appeals of Fri–Sat. Private charters also available. theme parks, museums and haunted houses, 5Wits provides visitors with action-packed interactive game-play and puzzle- ODYSSEY CRUISES, departs daily from Rowes Wharf, 1-888- N Transportation to Theatres, Restaurants and solving activities. Current show: Tomb, which allows players 741-0281. Brunch: Sat & Sun daily noon–2 p.m. Tickets: to journey to the center of a buried pharaoah’s final resting $42–48. Lunch: Mon–Fri noon–2 p.m. Tickets: $37. Dinner: the Casinos place, facing challenges and obstacles along the way. Mon–Thu 7–10 p.m., Fri & Sat 8–11 p.m., Sun 6–9 p.m.

sightseeing Tickets: $78–92. Boarding begins one hour prior to depar- SIX FLAGS NEW ENGLAND, 1623 Main St. (Rte. 159 South), ture. Prices include meal. Midday and moonlight cruises also N Shopping and Sightseeing Tours Agawam, 413-786-9300. Open Sat & Sun; call for hours of available. Cruise historic Boston Harbor while enjoying lunch, operation. Tickets: $41.99, seniors $26.99, kids $25.99; after brunch or dinner aboard this elegant cruise ship. Three lavish Tours include Cambridge, Concord and Lexington, 4 p.m., $24.99. Part of one of the nation’s top amusement decks offer a myriad of entertainment choices, from jazz to Salem, Plymouth, Newport,Cape Cod and Cape Ann park chains, Six Flags New England is the region’s largest contemporary music, and every on-deck stroll reveals the option for thrills and chills from humongous roller coasters, glorious Boston skyline. water rides and more—including the Superman: Ride of Steel and the brand-new Mr. Six’s Pandemonium. Equally attractive rates from hotels outside of SIGHTS OF INTEREST Boston to the Logan airport. All Major Credit Cards Accepted CRUISES ADAMS NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK, 1250 Hancock St., Quincy, eight miles south of Boston, 617-770-1175. Take BAY STATE CRUISE COMPANY, 200 Seaport Blvd. at the the “T” to the Quincy Center stop on the Red Line. Visitor World Trade Center, 877-PT-FERRY. Visit www.provincetown Center is open daily from 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Trolley tours: fastferry.com or call for ticket prices, reservations and depar- depart every 30 minutes from 9:15 a.m.–3:15 p.m. Tickets: ture times. Enjoy fast or traditional ferry service daily from $5; children (under 16) free. This oft-overlooked historical Boston to Provincetown aboard the new and sleek gem offers insight into the lives of U.S. presidents John Boston Town Car Provincetown III. Adams and son John Quincy Adams. Tours stop at the birthplaces of both presidents, as well as “The Old BOSTON HARBOR CRUISES, One Long Wharf, 617-227- House,” which was home to five generations of the For Reservations, call (617) 782-4000 4321. Call for reservations and departure times. Boston’s old- Adams family. Stop by the Visitor Center to register and ___ est and largest cruise company has something for everyone. purchase tickets. [email protected] Toll Free (888) 765-LIMO 52 PANORAMA

ARNOLD ARBORETUM, 125 Arborway, Jamaica Plain, 617- dows illustrating Biblical events. Also see listing for the Mary mementos personally collected and arranged by the 524-1718. Grounds open year-round, sunrise to sunset. Free Baker Eddy Library. president’s mother. admission. Visitor Center open Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–4 p.m., Sat 10 a.m.–4 p.m., Sun noon–4 p.m. This 265-acre tree FOREST HILLS CEMETERY, 95 Forest Hills Ave., 617-524- JOHN HANCOCK TOWER, 200 Clarendon St., 617-572-6429. sanctuary designed by Emerald Necklace architect Frederick 0128. Open daily from dawn to dusk. Created in 1848, this Rising 62 stories into the sky, this I.M. Pei-designed, sliver- Law Olmsted opened in 1872. Now a National Historic cemetery serves as the final resting place of Eugene O’Neill, of-glass skyscraper is New England’s tallest building and is Landmark, the arboretum and its gardens contain more than Anne Sexton, e.e. cummings, William Lloyd Garrison and for- considered by many to be one of the most beautiful sky- 7,000 varieties of trees, shrubs and flowers, all labeled for mer Boston Celtic Reggie Lewis. The 275 acres of twisting scrapers in the world. The building houses the headquarters your perusal. paths also contain sculptural treasures, an arboretum, a of its namesake, insurance giant John Hancock Financial. “library” of life stories and an open-air museum. Special Unfortunately, the observatory on the 60th floor was closed BOSTON ATHENAEUM, 101⁄2 Beacon St., 617-227-0270. event: Sep 18 at 2 p.m.—Contemporary art tour, led by artists after September 11, 2001. Member hours: Tue–Fri 8:30 a.m.–5:30 p.m., Mon ’til 8 p.m. who’ll discuss their work on the Contemporary Sculpture Path. Public tours: Tue & Thu at 3 p.m. Reservations required. One THE MARY BAKER EDDY LIBRARY, 200 Mass. Ave., 617- of the oldest and most distinguished private libraries in the HARRISON GRAY OTIS HOUSE, 141 Cambridge St., 617- 450-7000. Open Tue–Sun from 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Admission: United States, the Athenaeum was founded in 1807. For 227-3956. Tours: Wed–Sun 11 a.m.–4:30 p.m. every 30 min- $6; seniors, students with ID and youth (6–17) $4; children nearly half a century, it was the unchallenged center of intel- utes. Admission: $8; seniors $4; students $2.50; free for (under 6) and members free. Home to the world-famous lectual life in Boston, and by 1851 it had become one of the kids, Historic New England members and Boston residents. Mapparium, a three-story stained-glass globe depicting the five largest libraries in the country. Built in 1796 for Harrison Gray Otis and his wife, Sally, this world as it existed in 1934, which guests can walk through. grand mansion is a brilliant example of high-style Federal Visitors to the library can follow Mary Baker Eddy’s quest for BOSTON PUBLIC GARDEN, bordered by Arlington, Charles, elegance. Tours offer insight into the social, business and insight and embark on one of their own through interactive Beacon and Boylston streets. Open daily dawn to dusk. family life of the post-Revolution American elite. exhibits in the Quest Gallery, or try out a “desk job” at the Established in 1837, the Public Garden is the nation’s first Pulitzer Prize-winning Christian Science Monitor. public botanical garden. Its 24 acres are filled with scenic JOHN F. KENNEDY NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE, 83 Beals and diverse greenery, as well as sculptures, including one St., Brookline, 617-566-7937. Open Wed–Sun 10 a.m.–4:30 MINUTE MAN NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK, Concord and that commemorates the popular children’s book Make Way p.m. Admission: $3; children (17 and under) free. Guided Lexington, 978-369-6993. Minute Man Visitor Center is locat- for Ducklings. Other fixtures include the Lagoon, home to the tours every half-hour. This modest frame house is the well- ed on Route 2A West; North Bridge Visitor Center is at 174 famed Swan Boats from April through Labor Day, and a sus- preserved 1917 birthplace and childhood home of the Liberty St. Both open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Created in 1959 to pension bridge designed as a miniature replica of the BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY: The McKim 35th president of the United States, and also the first preserve the sites associated with the opening battles of the Brooklyn Bridge. edifice of the BPL in Copley Square is a home shared by the president’s father and mother, Joseph American Revolution, Minute Man Park consists of over 900 historic and architecural landmark. Refer to P. and Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy. Includes a collection of acres of land along original segments of the Battles of BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY, 700 Boylston St., Copley Square, listing, left. household furnishings, photographs and significant Lexington and Concord, including Lexington Green and

617-536-5400. Mon–Thu 9 a.m.–9 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 5 p.m., sightseeing Sun 1–5 p.m. Free admission. Art & Architecture tours offered Mon at 2:30 p.m., Tue & Thu at 6 p.m., Fri & Sat at 11 a.m. The first publicly supported municipal library in the concerts and films, as well as performances by the world- world hosts one million visitors a year, who come to view this famous Boston Pops. architectural masterpiece and its collection of more than five million books. Film festivals, exhibits and children’s programs CUSTOM HOUSE TOWER, 3 McKinley Square, 617-310- run throughout the year. 6300. Free historical tours daily at 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Tours may be cancelled due to weather conditions, call ahead. BOSTON TEA PARTY SHIP AND MUSEUM, Congress Street Boston’s first skyscraper, the Custom House stands high over Bridge, 617-338-1773. Temporarily closed due to fire Boston Harbor as one of the city’s most impressive land- damage. This replica of the famous ship, being repaired off- marks. Crowned by its distinctive clock tower and restored site, remains an indelible token of patriotism on the site of with modern luxuries, the building epitomizes the preserva-

sightseeing the “single most important event leading to the American tion of Boston’s historic architecture. Today, the Marriott Revolution.” On a cold evening in 1773, a group of colonists Corporation operates this landmark. led by the Sons of Liberty snuck aboard a British ship and threw hundreds of chests of tea into Boston Harbor in protest EMERALD NECKLACE, parks throughout Boston, 617-635- of taxation without representation. 7487. Free guided tours by appointment only. This world- famous string of parks that runs through the city was the BUNKER HILL PAVILION, Boston National Historical Park brainchild of renowned landscape architect Frederick Law Visitors Center, Charlestown, 617-242-5601. Located yards Olmsted, and took almost 20 years to complete. The six from the U.S.S. Constitution. Visitor center and bookstore green spaces—Back Bay Fens, Riverway, Olmsted Park, open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Monument open daily from 9 Jamaica Pond, Arnold Arboretum and Franklin Park—stretch a.m.–4:30 p.m. Free admission. Check out “Whites of Their five miles from the Charles River to Dorchester and make Eyes,” a dramatic multimedia presentation of the Battle of up over 1,000 acres of parkland. Although not officially part Bunker Hill, one of the first major battles of the Revolution. of the Emerald Necklace, Boston Common and the Public Or climb the nearby Bunker Hill Monument, a 221-foot Garden are sometimes considered the starting points, and granite obelisk. are connected to the Necklace by the Commonwealth Avenue Mall. CHARLES RIVER ESPLANADE, 617-635-4305. This tree- lined park along the Charles River basin is a popular spot for THE FIRST CHURCH OF CHRIST SCIENTIST, 175 Huntington leisurely strolls and picnics as well as recreational activities. Ave., 617-450-3790. Services: Sun at 10 a.m. and 7 p.m., Sports enthusiasts are drawn to the 17-mile biking, jogging Wed at noon and 7:30 p.m. The original Mother Church built and walking path between the Museum of Science and in 1894 is at the heart of the Christian Science Center, situat- Watertown, while others flock to the water to sail, windsurf, ed on 14 acres in the Back Bay. The Romanesque structure ___ canoe or kayak. The nearby DCR Hatch Shell frequently hosts is made from New Hampshire granite with stained glass win- ___ 54 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 55

Concord’s North Bridge. The park also preserves The Civil Action, Good Will Hunting, Mystic River and others. This After completing your sojourn into the macabre, step off the Wayside, the 19th-century home of literary greats Nathaniel 90-minute walking tour takes movie buffs to 30 spots where trolley for a walk through two of the oldest burying grounds Hawthorne, Louisa May Alcott and Margaret Sidney. some of Hollywood’s biggest stars have come to film. Tour in the city. guides also offer up behind-the-scenes stories and NEW ENGLAND HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL, Congress Street Hollywood gossip. HARPOON BREWERY TOUR, 306 Northern Ave., 1-888-HAR- near Faneuil Hall. This haunting memorial features six lumi- POON ext. 522. Tours: Tue–Sat at 3 p.m., Fri & Sat at 1 and nous glass towers etched with the six million prisoner num- FENWAY PARK TOURS, 4 Yawkey Way, 617-226-6666. Tours 3 p.m. Free admission. This waterfront institution was the bers of those who perished in the Holocaust. Visitors can daily each hour from 9 a.m.–4 p.m. or until three hours first brewery in 25 years to be granted a permit to brew and walk under the towers and read the dramatic stories of the before game time. Tickets: $12; seniors $11; children (under package beer commercially when it opened in 1987. Visitors victims and heroes of this tremendous human tragedy. 14) $10. Tours originate at the Souvenir Store located on gather at the Tap Room, which overlooks the brewery, for 30- Yawkey Way across from Service Gate D, rain or shine. Have to 45-minute tours of the plant. THE SKYWALK OBSERVATORY AT THE PRUDENTIAL you dreamt of walking across the field where Red Sox leg- CENTER, 617-859-0648. Open daily 10 a.m.–10 p.m. ends spent their glory days? This tour offers a behind-the- THE LITERARY TRAIL, departs from the Omni Parker House, Skywalk kiosk closes at 6 p.m. Admission (including a head- scenes look at America’s oldest active Major League ball- 60 School St., 617-350-0358. Call for full tour schedule. set audio tour of points of interest): $9.50; seniors $7; chil- park, including a glimpse behind the famed “Green Monster.” Tickets: $30; children (under 12) $26. Group tours also avail- OURISM T

dren (under 12) $6.50. Observatory may be closed due to / able. Tickets include entrance to all museums on the trail.

weather conditions, please call ahead. Enjoy spectacular & THE FREEDOM TRAIL FOUNDATION’S FREEDOM TRAIL This 20-mile tour includes stops at the Boston Athenaeum; 360-degree panoramic views of Boston and beyond and PLAYERS, departs from the Visitor Center on Boston the Omni Parker House; Cambridge’s Longfellow House; the VEL LINEFF

learn about the city’s 375 years of culture and history on the C Common, 617-357-8300. Tours daily at 11 a.m., noon and 1 Concord Museum, which houses Ralph Waldo Emerson’s new Antennae Audio Tour. Recently added displays include TRA p.m. Tickets: $12; children (12 and under) $6. Explore the study; and famed Walden Pond.

“Dreams of Freedom,” featuring the Boston immigrant expe- OF Freedom Trail with costumed actors portraying famous patri- INDRA

rience; an exhibit overlooking Fenway Park dedicated the K ots such as James Otis, Abigail Adams and William Dawes in NORTH END MARKET TOUR, 64 Cross St., take the T to

legendary Red Sox slugger Ted Williams; and a new theater BY this 90-minute tour. Stops include the Park Street Church, the Haymarket, 617-523-6032. Wed & Sat 10 a.m.–1 p.m. and OFFICE O showing “Wings Over Boston,” a spectacular aerial tour of . Boston Massacre Site, the Old State House and Faneuil Hall. 2–5 p.m.; Fri 10 a.m.–1 p.m. and 3–6 p.m. Reservations T

the entire city. ASS required. Custom tours for groups available. Tickets: $49. HO M P GHOSTS AND GRAVESTONES TOUR, 617-269-3626. Tours Michele Topor, an authority on Italian cuisine and culture, TRINITY CHURCH, Copley Square, 617-536-0944. Open daily daily at 6, 7, 8 and 9 p.m. Reservations required. Tickets: hosts award-winning culinary walking tours through one of from 8 a.m.–6 p.m.; tours available. Built in 1877, this house TRINITY CHURCH: The striking Victorian, $30; children: $18. Step aboard the trolley of doom for a tour the nation’s oldest Italian-American communities. of worship, a combination of Victorian, Gothic and French Gothic and Romanesque hybrid, built in of the dark side of Boston. Your host, a 17th century Romanesque styles, is one of the great masterpieces of 1877 and subject of a recent renovation, rises gravedigger, tells the tales of the Angel of Death, the Boston NORTH END SECRET TOURS, North Square (across from The American church architecture. The building is located in above Copley Square. Refer to listing, left. Strangler and other infamous characters from Boston’s past. Paul Revere House), 617-720-2283. Fri & Sat 10 a.m., 1 p.m.

Copley Square adjacent to the I.M. Pei-designed John sightseeing Hancock Tower, itself a contemporary architectural masterpiece. The church is currently in the midst of a $53 million preservation initiative. city and its heritage. Tours leave from the Boston Common Visitor Center at Park Street Station (bikes and equipment are provided). TOURS AND TRAILS BOSTON BY FOOT, 617-367-2345 or 617-367-3766. Guided BEACON HILL WALKING TOURS, 617-227-3957, Ext. 256. 90 minute tours highlighting the rich architecture and history Guided tours highlighting the richly European section of of the city, led by trained volunteers. Tickets: $10, children Boston along the Freedom Trail. Tickets: $10; reservation rec- (6–12) $8, unless noted. Call for tour locations. The Heart of ommended. Magnificent & Modern: Beacon Hill Walking Tour, the Freedom Trail, every day at 10 a.m., tickets: $11, children including a tour of the Otis House Museum, every Sat from (6–12) $8; Victorian Back Bay, Fri, Sat & Sun at 10 a.m., Tue

sightseeing 11 a.m.–1 p.m.; Beacon Hill Treasures, Sep 17 from 11 & Thu at 5:30 p.m.; Literary Landmark Tour, Sat at 2 p.m., a.m.–noon. tickets: $11, children (6–12) $9; Beacon Hill, Mon–Fri at 5:30 p.m., Sat at 10 a.m., Sun at 2 p.m.; North End, Fri & Sat at 2 BLACK HERITAGE TRAIL, 617-742-5415. Tours: Mon–Sat at p.m.; Boston Underground, Sun at 2 p.m., tickets: $11, chil- 10 a.m., noon and 2 p.m. Call at least 24 hours in advance for dren (6–12) $9; Boston By Little Feet, Mon & Sat at 10 a.m., reservations. A guided tour through the north side of Beacon Sun at 2 p.m., tickets: $8. Hill, including the homes of politicians and entrepreneurs; the African Meeting House, built in 1806; the oldest standing BOSTON DUCK TOURS, Prudential Center and Museum of house built by an African-American (1797); and the home of Science. www.bostonducktours.com. Tours: seven days a Lewis and Harriet Hayden, who harbored runaway slaves. week, 9 a.m. ’til one hour before sunset. Tickets: $25; sen- Maps are available at the Museum of Afro-American History. iors, students & military $22; children (3–11) $16; (under 3) $3; special needs $10. Group discounts available. Experience BOSTON ART TOURS, 617-732-3920. Call for full tour sched- the city in an amazing vehicle that rides on land and water. ule. Tickets: $25; teens $15; children (under 12) free. Boston The 80-minute tour visits most of Boston’s famous sights. Art Tours offers various excursions to area museums and gal- And just when you think you’ve seen it all, your Duck splash- leries that highlight different historical time periods. Families es into the Charles River for a spectacular water view. may choose from age-appropriate tours offering lively descriptions of works to help further the understanding of art. BOSTON MOVIE TOURS, departs from the Shaw Memorial in front of the State House on Beacon Street. 866-MOVIE-45. BOSTON BIKE TOUR, 617-308-5902. Tours: Sat & Sun at www.bostonmovietours.net. Tours: daily at 11 a.m. and 1:30 11 a.m. Tickets: Sat tour $20 (w/o bike rental, $15), Sun tour p.m. Tickets: $20; seniors and students $17; children (6–12) $25 (w/o bike rental, $18). Tours make stops at various sites $10. Reservations strongly encouraged. Experience the city ___ while your guide shares history and pokes playful fun at the of Boston the way Tinseltown has through such films as A ___ 56 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 57

and 4 p.m. Reservations required. Tickets: $30 per person. STONE ZOO, 149 Pond St., Stoneham, 781-438-5100. Open This two-hour guided walking tour explores some of the hid- daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $7.50; seniors $6.50; chil- den courtyards and passageways of the North End, visits the dren (2–15) $4.50; children (under 2) free. Highlights include birthplace of Kennedy matriarch Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy, Snowy Owl creek, Mexican gray wolves, snow leopards, and tells unusual tales of Boston’s oldest neighborhood. jaguars, reindeer, river otters, llamas and miniature donkeys, as well as educational programs at the Animal Discovery OLD TOWN TROLLEY TOURS OF BOSTON, 617-269-7010. Center. The Zoo is also home to the nation’s first “Earth Park.” Departs every 15–20 minutes daily from 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Special exhibit: Lord of the Wings: Birds of Prey, an ongoing Tickets: $29; seniors & students $26; children (under 12) educational show. Special event: Sep 24 from 5:30–9:30 free. With 16 stops throughout the city, including the New p.m.—A Wild Affair, an event celebrating Stone Zoo’s 100th England Aquarium, U.S.S. Constitution Museum, the Trolley birthday, featuring fine food from area restaurants, live enter- Stop Store on the corner of South Charles and Boylston tainment, animal encounters, a silent auction and more. streets, and most major hotels (see your concierge), patrons Tickets: $35; call 617-989-2015. can enjoy a 100-minute, fully narrated sightseeing tour of more than 100 points of interest aboard the orange-and- green, all-weather trolley. CAMBRIDGE O T PHOTO WALKS, 617-851-2273. Tours: daily at 10 a.m. and 1 Due to limited parking, it is best to take the Red Line

p.m. Call for reservations and departure locations. Tickets: OBER when traveling to Harvard, Central or Kendall squares. $25; students $20; children (ages 10–17) $15. Explore R The Cambridge Discovery Booth located at the Harvard T Boston on a photographic journey that reveals the scenic T Square “T” entrance provides additional information. CO

treasures of the Public Garden, Beacon Hill, the Freedom Trail S

and the waterfront. Each walking tour provides fascinating BY CAMBRIDGE COMMON/OLD BURYING GROUND. A grazing

historical information and simple, creative tips on composing O pasture and cemetery for Puritan Newtowne, as well as a artistic photographs of area attractions. T favorite meeting spot for public figures and a tent site for the HO

P Continental Army. Early college presidents and town residents SAMUEL ADAMS BREWERY TOUR: DRINK IN A LITTLE were buried in “God’s Acre” across from the Common. HISTORY, 30 Germania St., Jamaica Plain, 617-368-5080. FRANKLIN PARK ZOO: Birds, zebras, lions, Tours: Wed & Thu at 2 p.m.; Fri at 2 and 5:30 p.m.; Sat at kangaroos and gorillas abound at the many CHRIST CHURCH. This 1761 Tory house of worship was uti- noon, 1 and 2 p.m.; one-hour tours include samples (ID displays of this oustanding menagerie. Refer lized as a Colonial barracks during the American Revolution. required). Tickets: $2; donation given to a local charity. Learn to listing, below.

about the art of brewing beer and taste the rich malts and FIRST CHURCH UNITARIAN/UNIVERSALIST. Harvard College sightseeing spicy hops on this tour of the original Samuel Adams brewery. provided the pews for its students in this 1833 building erected for the then-newly founded Unitarian Church. SWAN BOATS, Public Garden Lagoon, 617-522-1966. Rides: ry of Stellwagen Bank aboard the Aquarium’s whale watch ves- daily from 10 a.m.–5 p.m., weather permitting. Tickets: sel, the 111-foot catamaran Voyager III. Search for a variety of HARVARD AND RADCLIFFE YARDS. The centers of two insti- A Boston Tradition $2.50, children (2–15) $1, seniors $2. One of Boston’s oldest whales, including humpback, finback and minke. Interactive tutions that have played major educational roles since A National Historic Landmark and most treasured traditions, these pedal-powered boats exhibits include microscope stations, electronic navigation, com- Harvard’s founding in 1636. glide around the Public Garden and under the smallest sus- puter whale programs, meteorological instruments and movies. pension bridge in the world. HARVARD SQUARE/OLD CAMBRIDGE. The center of Cambridge activity since the 17th century, the Square is WILDLIFE home to Harvard University, historic buildings, bookstores, WHALE WATCHES cafes, restaurants and shops. FRANKLIN PARK ZOO, One Franklin Park Road, Franklin

sightseeing BOSTON HARBOR CRUISES, One Long Wharf, 617-222- Park, 617-541-LION. Open Mon–Fri from 10 a.m.–5 p.m., Sat LONGFELLOW NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE, 105 Brattle St., 4321. Through Sep 25: Mon–Fri at noon, Sat & Sun at 10:30 & Sun ’til 6 p.m. Admission: $9.50; seniors $8; children Cambridge, 617-876-4491. Wed–Sun 10 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Park a.m., 12:30 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. Tickets: $31, seniors $28, (2–15) $5.50; children (under 2) free. Home to more than ranger-guided tours: 10:30 and 11:30 a.m. and 1, 2, 3 and 4 America’s children $25. Cruise on high speed catamarans to Stellwagen 210 species, including many endangered animals. Roam the p.m. Admission: $3, children (under 16) free. This 1759 Georgian Bank, the East Coast’s most famous destination for whale Australian Outback Trail with wallabies and kangaroos; mansion was home to Henry Wadsworth Longfellow from 1837 Oldest watching. Catch sight of humpback, finback and minke explore the Tropical Forest and see the gorillas; marvel at the to 1882 and a central gathering place for writers and artists in Restaurant whales from the deck or from the comfort of a full modern- lions at Kalahari Kingdom; and visit zebras, ostriches, ibex the 19th century. It also served as George Washington’s head- On The ized cabin boasting snack and beverage services. The tour is and wildebeests at Serengeti Crossing. quarters during the siege of Boston in 1775–76. Original furnish- Freedom Trail three hours, and free tickets on a future cruise are guaran- ings, books and art from around the world are on display. teed if you don’t spot one of these magnificent creatures. NEW ENGLAND AQUARIUM, Central Wharf, 617-973-5200. In The Open Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–5 p.m.; Sat & Sun 9 a.m.–6 p.m. MOUNT AUBURN CEMETERY, 580 Mount Auburn St., Faneuil Hall Area MASSACHUSETTS BAY LINE WHALE WATCHES, Departing Admission: $15.95; seniors $13.95; children (3–11) $8.95; Cambridge, 617-547-7105. Open daily from 8 a.m.–5 p.m. from Rowes Wharf behind The Boston Harbor Hotel, 617- children (under 3) free. Refer to Currently section under Film Founded in 1831 by the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, Specializing In Yankee Style Seafood, 542-4321. Through Sep 25: Daily at 10:30 a.m. Tickets: for IMAX theater listings. Combination ticket prices available. Mount Auburn was the first landscaped cemetery in the Fresh New England Lobster $29, children $23. Get out on the open water in search of the Dedicated to advancing knowledge of the world of water, this country. Many prominent Americans are buried here, includ- sea’s most majestic creatures on this four-hour tour of outstanding aquatic zoo features a 187,000-gallon Giant ing Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, Isabella Stewart Gardner And Grilled Meats Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary. On board, pro- Ocean Tank containing a Caribbean coral reef with sharks, and Winslow Homer. The cemetery is also an arboretum, 41 Union Street • 617-227-2750 fessional marine biologists will be onhand to share their sea turtles, moray eels and other aquatic life. Be sure to sculpture garden and wildlife sanctuary. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-9:30 pm knowledge of whales and other marine wildlife. check out the popular penguin habitat. Special exhibit: Friday & Saturday 11 am-10 pm Amazing Jellies. The adjacent Simons 3D IMAX Theater is the TORY ROW (BRATTLE STREET). One of the nation’s most Union Bar til-Midnight NEW ENGLAND AQUARIUM, Central Wharf, 617-973-5206. first theater of its kind in the Boston area. Refer to Film in beautiful residential streets, Tory Row is the site of Loyalist All Major Credit Cards Honored • Validated Parking Mon–Fri at 9:30 a.m. & 1:30 p.m., Sat & Sun at 10 a.m. and 2 Currently for complete IMAX theater listings and Kids Corner mansions and their elegant neighbors from every period of Visit Our Website • www.unionoysterhouse.com ___ p.m. Tickets: $29, seniors $26, children $20. Discover the histo- for special events. American architecture. ___ 58 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 59

FREEDOM TRAIL building stands on land bought from John Hancock. The red brick this seat of colonial government was the center of activity for OLD NORTH CHURCH (13). 193 Salem St., portion was designed by the legendary architect Charles Bulfinch. such patriots as John Hancock and Samuel and John Adams. It 617-523-6676. Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. was from the east balcony that the Declaration of Independence Sun services at 9 and 11 a.m. Known as PARK STREET CHURCH (3). Corner of was first read in Boston. Christ Church and erected in 1723, this is Park and Tremont streets, 617-523-3383. Boston’s oldest standing church, where two Sunday services at 8:30 & 11 a.m. and 4 BOSTON MASSACRE SITE (10). State lanterns were hung on April 18, 1775, sig- & 6 p.m. Morning services are traditional, Street in front of the Old State House. At naling the Redcoats’ departure by sea for evening services are contemporary. Built the next intersection below the State Lexington and Concord. in 1809, this church was described by House, a ring of cobblestones marks the Henry James as “the most interesting site of the clash between a jeering Boston COPP’S HILL BURIAL GROUND (14). Open mass of brick and mortar in America.” crowd and a British guard of nine soldiers daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Hull Street. Set out in 1660, on March 5,1770. Copp’s Hill was Boston’s second cemetery. OLD GRANARY BURYING GROUND (4). Many remarkable people are interred here, Tremont Street next to Park Street FANEUIL HALL (11). Merchants Row and including Increase Mather, his son Cotton,

Church, 617-635-7389. Open daily 9 Faneuil Hall Square, 617-523-1300. Open Cotton’s son Samuel Mather and Edmund fr a.m.–5 p.m. This historic cemetery, for- daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Historical talks given Hartt, builder of the U.S.S. Constitution. merly the town granary, is the final rest- daily every half hour 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m. eedom tr ing place of John Hancock, Paul Revere, Military museum open Mon–Fri 9 BUNKER HILL MONUMENT (15). Breed’s Robert Treat Paine, Samuel Adams, Peter a.m.–3:30 p.m. “The Cradle of Liberty” Hill, Charlestown, 617-242-5641. Climb the

ail Faneuil, and the victims of the Boston combines in one building a free enterprise monument from 9 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Lodge Massacre. A stone inscribed “Mary Goose” (a.k.a. Elizabeth market on the first floor with a free market- and museum open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. The Goose) allegedly marks the grave of Mother Goose. place for the exchange of ideas upstairs. site of the historic battle of June 17, 1775.

KING’S CHAPEL AND BURYING GROUND PAUL REVERE HOUSE (12). 19 North U.S.S. CONSTITUTION (16). Charlestown (5). Tremont and School streets, 617-227- Square, Hanover Street, 617-523-2338. Navy Yard, Charlestown, 617-242-5670. THE FREEDOM TRAIL FOUNDATION’S FREEDOM 2155. Services: Sun at 11 a.m., Wed at Open daily 9:30 a.m.–5:15 p.m. Admission: Free guided tours Tue–Sun from 10 TRAIL PLAYERS: Step back in time and explore the 12:15 p.m. Burying Ground open daily 9 $3; students & seniors with I.D. $2.50; a.m.–3:50 p.m. This 44-gun frigate is the Freedom Trail with costumed actors portraying famous a.m.–5 p.m. Tours: Mon and Thu–Sat 9:30 children (5–17) $1; (under 5) free. The oldest commissioned warship in the world.

patriots such as James Otis, Abigail Adams and William a.m.–4:30 p.m.; Tue and Wed 1:30–4:30 oldest home in Boston, built about 1680, The U.S.S. Constitution Museum, located ail

eedom tr Dawes in this 90-minute tour covering the sites listed p.m. Visitors are reminded that King’s was occupied by Paul Revere from 1770 adjacent to the ship, is open daily from 9 below. Refer to listing in Sightseeing, page 57. Chapel is a house of worship. The chapel to 1800. a.m.–5 p.m. Call 617-426-1812.

fr was established in 1687 as the first Anglican congregation in Boston. The second chapel, built in 1754, became the first Unitarian church in America after the Revolution. The Freedom Trail begins at the Boston Common Information Kiosk, where you can obtain a free SITE OF THE FIRST PUBLIC SCHOOL AND guide or rent a handheld self-guided audio tour BEN FRANKLIN’S STATUE (6). On School complete with sound effects and anecdotes for $15, Street, marked by a column and commemo- $12 for each additional adult and $10 for children. rative plaque. On April 13, 1635, the town Free 90-minute, park ranger-guided tours depart voted to establish the first public school in from the Boston National Historical Park Visitors the country (the forerunner of the Boston Center at the corner of State and Devonshire Latin School). Nearby is Benjamin Franklin’s streets, Mon–Fri at 2 p.m., Sat & Sun at 10 & 11 a.m. statue, built in 1856, the first portrait-statue and 2 p.m. First come, first serve. Arrive 30 minutes erected in the United States. prior to tour. Call 617-242-5642 for more information. The number accompanying each site listed below SITE OF THE OLD CORNER BOOKSTORE refers to the site’s location as shown on Panorama’s (7). School and Washington streets, 617- map. Refer to center spread. 367-4000. Constructed as an apothecary in 1718, the ground floor was later used as a bookstore that became the center of literary BOSTON COMMON (1). Set aside in 1634 Boston and the meeting place of such nota- as a military training field and grazing pas- bles as Emerson, Hawthorne, and Thoreau. ture, the Common is the oldest public park in SEE BOSTON LIKE YOU’VE NEVER SEEN IT, AT THE SKYWALK OBSERVATORY. America. The park served as quarters for OLD SOUTH MEETING HOUSE (8). 310 British as well as Colonial troops, and later Washington St., 617-482-6439. Open daily housed Civil War regiments. The British Army 9:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $5; students & set out for the start of the Revolutionary War seniors $4; children (6–18) $1; children from what is now Park Square. (under 6) free. This building housed many town meetings, the most famous of which VISIT OUR NEW DISPLAYS INCLUDING “DREAMS OF FREEDOM,” FEATURING THE BOSTON IMMIGRANT THE STATE HOUSE (2). Beacon Street, top of triggered the Boston Tea Party. Permanent EXPERIENCE, A NEW ANTENNA AUDIO TOUR AND OUR NEW THEATER Beacon Hill facing Boston Common, 617-727- exhibit: Voices of Protest. 3676. Open Mon–Fri 10 a.m.–4 p.m., except holidays. Guided tours Mon–Fri 10 a.m.–3:30 OLD STATE HOUSE (9). Corner of p.m. The famous golden dome of the State Washington and State streets, 617-720- House marks the government seat of the 3292. Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: FEATURING “WINGS OVER BOSTON,” AN AERIAL TOUR OF OUR CITY Commonwealth of Massachusetts. The corner- $5; students & seniors $4; children (6–18) AT THE PRUDENTIAL CENTER, 800 BOYLSTON STREET, BOSTON. CALL 617-859-0648. ___ stone was laid by Samuel Adams, and the $1; children (under 6) free. Built in 1713, ___ 60 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 61

SHOPPING THE SOCIETY OF ARTS AND CRAFTS, 175 Newbury St., 617- 9 a.m.–7 p.m. A vintage lover’s paradise, this two-level thrift 266-1810. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun noon–5 p.m. The warehouse sells everything from vintage Levi’s to knock-off oldest nonprofit craft organization in the country, established designer dresses and ’70s go-go boots. The ambitious (or in 1897. The Society specializes in contemporary American desperate) can sift through the heaping piles of the down- crafts, jewelry, furniture, glass and ceramics ranging from stairs Dollar-A-Pound. cutting edge to traditional, and from functional to sculptural. KIM’S FASHION DESIGN, 12 Kneeland St., Chinatown, 617- 426-5740. Copley: Daily 10 a.m.–9 p.m.; Chinatown: Daily BOOKS noon–6 p.m. Kim Pham has been a driving force in the Asian fashion industry for over 20 years. Kim’s couture, Asian- BARNES & NOBLE, 395 Washington St., 617-426-5184; inspired apparel for both genders uses only the finest silks, 800 Boylston St. (Prudential Center), 617-247-6959. with painstaking attention to detail and fit. Washington Street: Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Prudential: Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–11 p.m., Sun 10 LOUIS BOSTON, 234 Berkeley St., 617-262-6100. Mon 11 a.m.–9 p.m. One of America’s largest booksellers boasts a.m.–6 p.m., Tue & Wed 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thu–Sat ’til 7 p.m. all the bestsellers, plus an extensive selection of back Housed in a historic former Back Bay museum building, this titles, audiobooks, magazines, CDs and more. Boston institution maintains its cutting-edge allure by offering upscale men’s fashions by up-and-coming designers, as well as BORDERS, 10–24 School St., 617-557-7188; women’s fashions, bed and bath items, and home accessories. CambridgeSide Galleria, Cambridge, 617-679-0887. School Street: Mon–Fri 7 a.m.–9 p.m., Sat 8 a.m.–9 p.m., MARC JACOBS, 81 Newbury St., 617-425-0707. Mon–Sat Sun 10 a.m.–8 p.m. Galleria: Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–9:30 p.m., 11 a.m.–7 p.m., Sun noon–6 p.m. One of the country’s hottest Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. This major retailer provides readers designers has finally opened one of his outlets right here in the with seemingly limitless options regarding books and peri- Hub. This store specializes in Jacobs’ hip, retro-inspired ready- odicals, as well as an extensive music section. to-wear line as well as his fabulous accessories, shoes and MARC JACOBS: Jacobs’ line of retro-inspired men’s line. clothing is adored by countless trendy young THE COOP AT HARVARD SQUARE, 1400 Mass. Ave., celebrities. His Newbury Street boutique specializes Cambridge, 617-499-2000. Harvard Book Building: MAXMARA, 69 Newbury St., 617-267-9775. Mon–Sat 10 in his collection’s ready-to-wear offerings and to- Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–10 p.m., Sun 10 a.m.–9 p.m. a.m.–7 p.m., Sun noon–6 p.m. Founded in 1951 and with more

die-for accessories, as well as his men’s line. Refer Brattle/Palmer Building: Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–9 p.m., Sun than 1,000 stores worldwide, MaxMara is Italy’s largest women’s shopping to listing, page 63. noon–7 p.m. Founded by Harvard students a century ago, ready-to-wear manufacturer. Known for luxurious fabrics, stylish this behemoth landmark offers a massive selection of silhouettes and hand detailing. MaxMara embodies the principles books, reference materials and Harvard merchandise. of truly great Italian fashion—classic design and top quality.

ANTIQUES/ART/ RUGBY, 342 Newbury St., 617-247-2801. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.– COLLECTIBLES CLOTHING/ACCESSORIES 8 p.m., Sun noon–6 p.m. This casual clothing store from Ralph Lauren and features the latest in preppy couture, with edgy . . . Just a BLACK INK, 101 Charles St., 617-723-3883; 5 Brattle St., AKRIS, 16 Newbury St., 617-536-6225. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.– fashions aimed at the college-aged set at prices lower than Heartbeat Cambridge, 617-497-1221. Mon–Sat 11 a.m.–7 p.m., Sun 6 p.m. Founded in Switzerland in 1922, this design house is Lauren’s traditional Polo gear.

shopping noon–6 p.m. Trendy knick-knacks, from silk change purses to the only true couture house outside of Paris and Milan that away! sensual candles to sushi-eating accessories, and nostalgic has distinguished itself for its creative, elegant and modern SIMON’S MEN’S CLOTHING, 220 Clarendon St., between memorabilia such as tin lunch boxes can be found at this fashions. Its designer collection for women is comprised of Newbury and Boylston, 617-266-2345. Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–6 quirky, fun gift shop. elegant, understated suits, coats, dresses and evening wear. p.m., Wed & Thu ’til 7 p.m., Sun noon–5 p.m. The oldest family- run men’s clothing store in Boston, Simon’s sells business and DEVONIA ANTIQUES, 43 Charles St., 2nd floor, 617-523-8313. CHANEL BOUTIQUE, 5 Newbury St., on the ground floor of the casual wear in classic and updated styles and offers quick, Mon–Sat 11 a.m.–5 p.m., closed Wed & Sun. Perched on Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 617-859-0055. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m. expert alterations and even complete same-day tailoring. “Antiques Row,” this unique 1,200-foot showroom specializes Modeled after the famed Chanel Boutique in Paris, the Boston in antiques for the dining room, including an array of English outpost of this storied franchise offers a range of Chanel prod- STONESTREETS, 1276 Mass. Ave., Harvard Square, porcelain, European stemware circa 1880 and hand-painted ucts, including a line of clothing designed by Karl Lagerfeld, as Cambridge, 617-547-3245. Mon–Fri 10 a.m.–7 p.m., Sat 10 cabinet plates. well as shoes, accessories, handbags and fragrances. a.m.–6 p.m., Sun noon–6 p.m. This sophisticated men’s cloth- ier offers a casual-yet-refined collection of Italian and American PUCKER GALLERY, 171 Newbury St., 617-267-9473. Mon–Sat EDDIE BAUER, 500 Washington St., 617-423-4722. Mon–Sat designers. The knowledgeable staff will make sure that you find 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m., Sun 1–5 p.m. Founded in 1967 as a 10 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. This local outlet of the the proper garment, superbly tailored to your specifications. showcase for the talents of Israeli artists, the gallery has dis- renowned Seattle-based chain offers seasonal collections of played and sold a wide range of art by international artists, fine-quality, casual apparel, footwear, travel gear and acces- TALL GIRL SHOP, 211 Berkeley St. at Boylston St., 617-424- including works by Chagall, Picasso and Hundertwasser. sories for men and women, all at steep discounts from the 7164. Mon, Tue and Fri 10 a.m.–7 p.m., Wed and Thu 10 regular retail prices. a.m.–8 p.m., Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun noon–6 p.m. At Tall Girl, you’ll find an incredible selection of fashions for taller women ARTS & CRAFTS ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, 39 Newbury St., 617-424-9300. of all ages. Tall Girl fashions have been expertly proportioned Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun noon–5 p.m. A small, family-run to fit long-limbed women of sizes 6–22. A KNIT AND NEEDLEPOINT STORE BY MARY J. COLE, textile business which evolved into a world leader in elegant 11 Newbury St., 617-536-9338. Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–5 p.m., men’s clothing, this Italian design house has focused on quality URBAN OUTFITTERS, 361 Newbury St., 617-236-0088. At The Corner Mall you have the Sun by chance. The fine art of handprinted needlepoint since its founding in 1910. Today, Zegna boasts the finest in Mon–Thu 10 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 p.m., Sun noon– best of Boston with boutiques and and gorgeous knitting yarns are showcased here. Instruction menswear and is known for a vast, first-rate necktie selection. 8 p.m. Also: 11 JFK St., Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617-864- an international food court offering is available from the knowledgeable staff and lessons 0070. Where urban hipsters turn for funky men’s and women’s something for every palate! are free when the project is purchased here. Visit THE GARMENT DISTRICT, 200 Broadway, Cambridge, 617- fashions. The store also features a wide array of housewares, ___ www.needlepoint-boston.com. 876-5230. Sun–Tue 11 a.m.–7 p.m., Wed–Fri ’til 8 p.m., Sat shoes, accessories, gifts, books, cards and other bric-a-brac. At the Corner of Winter & Washington Streets ___ ABOVE PHOTO BY A LBERT V ECERKA 62 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 63

WISH, 49 Charles St., 617-227-4441. Mon–Fri 10 a.m.–7 GIFTS/SOUVENIRS p.m., Thu ’til 8 p.m., Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun noon–6 p.m. Proving hip couture exists outside Newbury Street, this bou- FANEUIL HALL HERITAGE SHOP, Zero Faneuil Hall Square, tique is home to designers like Nanette Lapore, Rebecca Stall #13, basement of historic Faneuil Hall, 617-723-1776. Taylor and Jean Yu. The chic yet welcoming shop sells cash- Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–7 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Opened in mere sweaters, pink chiffon dresses, and beaded purses for 1973, the shop continues to offer quality Colonial reproduc- your big night out. tions in pewter as well as scrimshaw, blown glass, Dedham pottery, hand-hammered copper weathervanes, prints, and sterling and gold charms of historic Boston locales. DEPARTMENT STORES OLD SOUTH MEETING HOUSE MUSEUM SHOP, 310 FILENE’S, 426 Washington St., 617-357-2100. Mon–Sat 9:30 Washington St., 617-482-6439. Open daily from 9:30 a.m.–5 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. New England’s premier p.m. The Museum Shop offers historical books, maps, jewelry, department store since 1851 offers six floors of the latest appar- handcrafted ceramics and pottery. The children’s section of the el from renowned designers such as Ralph Lauren and Tommy store has a variety of whimsical and educational toys and Hilfiger; cosmetics and fragrances from Chanel and Lancôme; books, which includes “hurdy-gurdys,” wooden tops, historical and bed and bath products by Laura Ashley and Croscill. paper dolls and much more.

FILENE’S BASEMENT, 426 Washington St., 617-542-2011. Mon–Fri 9:30 a.m.–8 p.m., Sat 9 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.– HOME GOODS 7 p.m. For decades, the Basement has provided shoppers with huge deals, thanks to its automatic markdown system which CRATE & BARREL, 777 Boylston St., 617-262-8700. Mon–Sat guarantees greater discounts the longer an item remains on 10 a.m.–9 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Also: Faneuil Hall the selling floor. A “must-visit” for bargain hunters. Marketplace, 617-742-6025; 48 Brattle St., Cambridge, 617- COWBOY BOOTS 876-6300. Call for other location hours. This fun yet sophisticated MEN N WOMEN N CHILDREN Boots N Lucchese N Justin N Nocona H & M, 350 Washington St., 617-482-7081. Mon–Sat 10 home fashions store features everything from kitchenware and Tony Lama N Dan Post N Frye N Liberty a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. This youthful, cutting-edge furniture to flatware, glassware and bath and body accessories. STETSON HATS department store opened its Boston shop in 2001. Its mantra of SIMON’S MEN’S CLOTHING: This Back Bay Shirts N Belts N Buckles N Bolo Ties “fashion and quality at the best price” translates to inexpensive, haberdasher has been outfitting Boston men KOO DE KIR, 65 Chestnut St., 617-723-8111. Mon–Fri 10 HELEN’S LEATHER

trendy clothes for men and women, as H & M boasts the fresh- for more than four generations. Refer to a.m.–7 p.m., Sat 10 a.m.–5 p.m. This sleek home goods store 110 Charles St., Boston, MA shopping est, most up-to-date fashion trends in color, material and style. listing, page 63. exudes warmth and irreverence with its selection of unique, 617.742.2077 fashionable home essentials, from serving trays and lamps to MACY’S, 450 Washington St., 617-357-3195. Mon–Sat 9:30 teapots and coffee mugs. a.m.– 8 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. This famous New York- based department giant features floor after floor of the latest FARMERS’ MARKETS RESTORATION HARDWARE, 711 Boylston St., 617-578-0088. culinary tools, bed and bath items, incredible gifts and hot fash- Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–9 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. This hardware ions. Choose from your favorite designers—Polo, Liz Claiborne, COPLEY SQUARE FARMERS’ MARKET, Copley Square, along retailer features distinctive, high-quality items for the home— Jones New York and DKNY—or Macy’s exclusive labels. St. James Avenue (in front of Trinity Church), 781-893-8222. from home furnishings and lighting to kitchen accessories and Tue & Fri 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Vendors from farms across the state garden supplies. Each product is imbued with the store’s classic

shopping MARSHALLS, 500 Boylston St., 617-262-6066. Mon–Sat 9 of Massachusetts sell homegrown fruits, vegetables, breads, design, affordable pricing and whimsical product information. a.m.–9 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; 350 Washington St., flowers and more from their farms. Downtown Crossing, 617-338-6205. Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Its mantra “Brand name clothing for HAYMARKET, near Quincy Market/Faneuil Hall. Open Fri and JEWELERY/ACCESSORIES less” has made this discount retailer a bargain-hunter’s dream Sat from dawn to dusk. A local institution, this open-air market come true. From Ralph Lauren to Calvin Klein, Marshalls fea- harkens back to the old days when Bostonians bought their ALPHA OMEGA, 1380 Mass. Ave., Cambridge, 617-864-1227. tures designer clothing for men, women and children. fruits, vegetables, meat and seafood from roadside stalls. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thu ’til 7 p.m., Sun noon–6 p.m. Also: Those used to the modern supermarket experience may be The Shops at Prudential Center, 800 Boylston St., 617-494-9030. NEIMAN MARCUS, 5 Copley Place, 100 Huntington Ave., 617- shocked by the chaotic atmosphere, but the bargains are hard Devoted to the art of timekeeping, Alpha Omega is an authorized 536-3660. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun noon–6 p.m. Nearly a to beat. agent for more than 20 prestigious watch brands such as Akteo, century of dedication to gathering the most enviable products Breitling, Movado, Omega, Seiko, TAG Heuer and Raymond Weil. the world has to offer has helped make this Dallas-based retailer a world-class fashion authority. Neiman’s has stayed in step FURNITURE CARTIER, 40 Newbury St., 617-262-3300. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.– with the times, while stepping ahead to deliver the unexpected. 6 p.m. If diamonds are forever, the House of Cartier is timeless. ADESSO, 200 Boylston St., 617-451-2212. Mon–Sat 10 With more than 150 years of experience, Cartier is a symbol of SAKS FIFTH AVENUE, The Shops at Prudential Center, 800 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun noon–5 p.m. One of America’s leading prestige, glamour, and quality. The jeweler offers a dazzling dis- Boylston St., 617-262-8500. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun resources for beautiful furniture, lighting and accessories. play of diamonds, jewelry and accessories, including time- noon–6 p.m. One of the country’s premier upscale retail Adesso imports a vast range of Europe’s finest designer prod- pieces, silver, crystal, designer pens and leather accessories. giants, Saks proffers a wide selection of high-end fashion ucts—such as Ligne Roset, renowned for its beds, sofas and apparel, accessories, cosmetics and home decor pieces from comfortable seating, and Alessi, known for stainless-steel JOHN LEWIS, INC., 97 Newbury St., 617-266-6665. Tue–Sat an assortment of unique and name-brand designers. teakettles and serving pieces. 11 a.m.–6 p.m. John Lewis has been creating jewelry of imagi- native design in Boston for more than 30 years. Using only solid T.J. MAXX, 350 Washington St., 617-695-2424. Mon–Sat 9 RESIDE, 266 Concord Ave., Huron Village, Cambridge, 617- precious metals and natural stones, Lewis’s aim is “to make a.m.–7:30 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. This discount retailer 547-2929. Thu–Fri 10 a.m.–8 p.m., Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun jewelry at a reasonable price, of excellent workmanship and offers brand name and designer fashions for men, women and noon–6 p.m. Specializing in vintage, mid-20th century furni- uncommon beauty.” kids, as well as accessories, fine jewelry and items for the ture and accessories, this eclectic store has quickly gained a home. Prices are slashed 20 to 60% off most department store following for its unique inventory of the best in European and LUX BOND & GREEN, 416 Boylston St., 617-266-4747. ___ rates. T.J. Maxx offers current trends of the highest quality. American modern design. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thu ’til 7 p.m. Since 1898, Lux Bond ___ 64 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 65

& Green has provided its customers with diamonds, gold jew- SHOES Brattle St., Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617-491-0810. Since elry, watches and giftware from around the world. The store 1973, The Tannery has been recognized as one of the world’s offers a corporate gift division, bridal and gift registry, a full- ALLEN-EDMONDS, 36 Newbury St., 617-247-3363. Mon–Sat best footwear stores. The Tannery offers customers 200 of the service repair department, gift certificates and elegant gift- 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun noon–5 p.m. Step out in luxurious style top name brands to choose from, including Birkenstocks, wrapping. with Allen-Edmonds’ collections of wing tips, capped toes and Dansko, Ecco and Clarks. slip-on kilties and tassles. This world-class men’s footwear SHREVE, CRUMP & LOW, 330 Boylston St., 617-267-9100. retailer, famous for its 212-step construction process, features Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Serving Bostonians since 1796, shoes made of top-quality leather and all-natural materials. SPORTING GOODS this Boston institution boasts of being the oldest continuously operating luxury business in the U.S. Its landmark Art Deco HELEN’S LEATHER, 110 Charles St., 617-742-2077. Mon– BILL RODGERS RUNNING CENTER, 353 North Market Place, store is filled with glittering diamonds, fine jewelry and watch- Wed, Fri & Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m. For more than 35 years, Helen’s Faneuil Hall Marketplace, 617-723-5612. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.– es. The galleries also offer silver, china, porcelain, stationery, Leather has supplied New Englanders with quality Western 8:45 p.m., Sun noon–6 p.m. Owned by the four-time Boston antiques and more. boots by makers like Lucchese, Tony Lama, Justin, Nocona Marathon winner, the Center helps runners of all levels choose and Frye. In addition, Helen’s sells Western belts, buckles, the most suitable shoes, not the most expensive. Boasts a vast SMALL PLEASURES, 142 Newbury St., 617-267-7371; 92 shirts and Stetson hats, as well as leather jackets and bags. selection of shoes and accessories and a knowledgeable staff. State St., 617-722-9932. Newbury St.: Mon–Sat 11 a.m.–6 p.m.; State St.: Mon–Fri 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Specializing in antique JOHN FLUEVOG, 302 Newbury St., 617-266-1079. Mon–Sat CITY SPORTS, 1035 Commonwealth Ave., 617-782-5121; 480 jewelry and vintage watches, this unique store features watch noon–8 p.m., Sun 1–6 p.m. This funky footwear retailer fea- Boylston St., 617-267-3900; 44 Brattle St., Cambridge, 617- brands like Rolex, Cartier and Tiffany and engagement rings tures shoes created by the maverick designer, ranging from 492-6000; other locations. Mon–Fri 10 a.m.–9:30 p.m., Sat 10 from the 1920s, as well as custom design and repair services, mind-bending platforms to the classic black boot and his tried- a.m.–9 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. City Sports sells athletic all in an intimate Art Deco setting. and-true “Angels.” The Newbury Street locale is the only place apparel by top brands like Nike, Adidas and Puma, as well as in Boston to find a wide range of his cutting-edge styles. sporting equipment for all interests, and footwear from TIFFANY & CO., Copley Place, 100 Huntington Ave., 617-353- Saucony, Reebok and others. 0222. Mon, Tue & Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Wed–Fri ’til 7 p.m., Sun MOXIE, 51 Charles St., Suite 1A, 617-557-9991. Mon–Fri 11 11 a.m.–5 p.m. This world-renowned jeweler has been syn- a.m.–7 p.m., Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun noon–6 p.m. This cozy NIKETOWN, 200 Newbury St., 617-267-3400. Mon–Sat 10 onymous with quality, integrity and tradition for more than 150 women’s footwear boutique features shoes from such fashion- a.m.–8 p.m., Sun noon–6 p.m. An enormous temple to the years. The Copley Place store features an exquisite array of able designers as Nicole Miller, L’Autre Chose, Cynthia Rowley, Nike franchise, this sporting goods retailer proffers all things diamonds, rings, timepieces and accessories. HELEN’S LEATHER: This leather goods shop Rafe and Isaac, as well as purses and handbags. Nike, including footwear, apparel, equipment and accessories. on Beacon Hill offers boots, belts, jackets, The store features an homage to the Boston Marathon, seats bags and other fine accessories. Refer to THE TANNERY, 402 Boylston St., 617-267-0899. Mon–Sat 9 from the old Boston Garden and autographed shoes from MALLS/SHOPPING CENTERS listing, page 67. a.m.–9 p.m., Sat 9 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Also: 11A Marathon champ Uta Pippig.

CAMBRIDGESIDE GALLERIA, 100 CambridgeSide Place, Cambridge, 617-621-8666. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–9:30 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. This three-level mall features department THE SHOPS AT PRUDENTIAL CENTER, 800 Boylston St., 1- stores such as Filene’s, Sears and Best Buy, as well as more 800-SHOP-PRU. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. than 100 other stores and specialty shops including the largest The Shops at Prudential Center features over 75 shops and Gap in Boston, Abercrombie & Fitch, J. Crew, Old Navy, Borders, restaurants including The Cheesecake Factory, Saks Fifth WindowWindow ShoppingShopping Victoria’s Secret and more. Avenue, Ann Taylor, J. Jill and Alpha Omega. It is also the

shopping launch spot for the city’s renowned tourist resource, the Boston COPLEY PLACE, Copley Square, 617-369-5000. The magnifi- Duck Tours. cent Copley Place features more than 100 upscale stores, including Neiman Marcus, Tiffany & Co., Gucci and Williams- FENWAY SPORTSWORLD, INC. Sonoma. A variety of restaurants, including Legal Sea Foods, MUSIC/VIDEO offer shoppers numerous dining options. To receive a free Boston’s Largest Sports Memorabilia Shop Ultimate Shopping Excursions card, stop by one of the cus- NEWBURY COMICS, 332 Newbury St., 617-236-4930. Conveniently located near Fenway Park at the corner of Yawkey Way and tomer service kiosks. Mon–Thu 10 a.m.–10:30 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 p.m.; Sun 11 Boylston Street, Fenway Sportsworld, Inc. offers the best prices on all your a.m.–8 p.m. Also: Government Center, 1 Washington Mall, ballgame and collectible card needs. It boasts Boston’s largest selection of THE CORNER MALL, corner of Winter and Washington streets. 617-248-9992; 36 JFK St. (Garage Mall), Cambridge, 617- autographed items in addition to dozens of specialty/novelty items, the Open daily. One-stop shopping in Downtown Crossing. You’ll 491-0337; 211 Alewife Brook Parkway, Cambridge, 617-491- find the latest styles at shops like Discovery Imports, Bath & 7711. You’ll have a “wicked good time” at this upstart local most balls in Boston and unique items for the discerning collector. . Body Works and Aldo Shoe. In addition, the Corner Mall features chain, which boasts the cheapest CD prices in town, including 1312 Boylston Street • 617-437-1010 • Mon–Fri 11–6 p.m.; extended an international food court to please every palate, including import, indie and major label releases, as well as T-shirts, hours during all Red Sox home games • www.fenwaysportsworld.org Cafe La Brioche, Sakkio Japan and India Express. comics, and other pop culture kitsch items.

THE HERITAGE ON THE GARDEN, 300 Boylston St., 617-426- TOWER RECORDS, 95 Mt. Auburn St., Harvard Square, 9500. Call for individual store hours. This residential/ Cambridge, 617-876-3377. Sun–Thu 10 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & office/retail complex located alongside the Public Garden fea- Sat ’til midnight. This music superstore features everything tures a handful of upscale retailers, including St. John Boutique, from CDs, tapes and records to videos, books and periodicals. ADVERTISE IN WINDOW SHOPPING! Sonia Rykiel, Escada, Hermes, Candela Spa and Anne Fontaine. Its music selection runs the gamut from classical to country to current pop, rock and soul sounds. Special discount rates are available for advertisers in Panorama’s MARKETPLACE CENTER, located between Faneuil Hall and the Waterfront. Twenty-four distinctive shops surround an open VIRGIN MEGASTORE, 360 Newbury St., 617-896-0950. Daily Window Shopping section off our regular display advertising prices. court known as the Exedra, where you will always find a wide 10 a.m.–midnight. The British music retailer chose Boston for range of unusual pushcarts and entertainment events unique to its 22nd North American location. Three levels and more than Call 617-423-3400 for more details. this wonderful area. Within walking distance are literally hun- 40,000 square feet of space house thousands of books, CDs, ___ dreds of other shops, restaurants, pubs and nightspots. videos and DVDs, as well as interactive listening kiosks. SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION 66 PANORAMA

RESTAURANTS Five Diamond Award. Enjoy exquisite modern French cuisine, CUISINE INDEX accompanied by a selection from an 1,800-bottle wine library. Reservations recommended. D Mon–Sat 5:30–10:30 p.m., American Italian Sun 6–10 p.m.; SB 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m. $$$$ Apropos, p. 68 Antonio’s, p. 71 Aura, p. 76 Caffe Pompei, p. 75 AZURE, The Lenox Hotel, 61 Exeter St., 617-933-4800. Avenue One, p. 73 Caffe Vittoria, p. 76 Azure's menu and concept are designed to be as clear and Boathouse Grill, p. 68 Caliterra, p. 73 understated as the color palette itself. Nationally-recognized Boodles, p. 68 Ciao Bella, p. 68 Executive Chef Robert Fathman, known for his innovation Cheers, p. 72 Davide, p. 76 and playful risk-taking in the kitchen, creates contemporary Cuvee, p. 70 Davio’s Northern Italian American cuisine with a sophisticated edge and an empha- Daisy Buchanan’s, p. 70 Steakhouse, p. 73 sis on fresh seafood. B, D. $$$ Dick’s Last Resort, p. 70 Florentine Cafe, p. 76 Finale, p. 74 Lucca Restaurant & Bar, BAR 10, The Westin Hotel, Copley Place, 10 Huntington Ave., The Federalist, p. 72 p. 76 617-424-7446. This sleek, contemporary bistro serves cre- The Foggy Goggle, p. 70 Mamma Maria, p. 76 ative Mediterranean cuisine and offers an exceptional wine Hard Rock Cafe, p. 70 Massimino’s Cucina list. Enjoy grilled Greek salad flatbread pizza or tagliarini Jer-Ne Restaurant & Bar, Italiana, p. 76 provencale in a cosmopolitan atmosphere. L, D, C, LS. $$ p. 74 Teatro, p. 75 Meritage, p. 74 BOODLES, Back Bay Hilton Hotel, Dalton St. near Prudential Parker’s Restaurant, p. 74 Mediterranean Center, 617-236-1100. Boodles serves tasty wood-fired Speeder & Earl’s, p. 71 Bar 10, p. 68 entrees, salads, and sandwiches in a casual and cozy set- The Spinnaker, p. 73 ting and features a lively bar with over 60 micro-brewed Stephanie’s on Newbury, Museum Dining TASTE OF BOSTON: The 22nd annual event takes beers to choose from. Breakfast buffet available Mon–Sat. B, p. 71 Bravo, p. 75 place September 17 & 18 at City Hall Plaza and fea- L, D, SB. $$$$ The Sunset Grill & Tap, Museum of Science, p. 74 tures cuisine from dozens of local restaurants, celebri- p. 68 ty chef demonstrations from the likes of Michael BRASSERIE JO, The Colonnade Hotel, 120 Huntington Ave., 33 Restaurant & Lounge, New England Schlow of Radius and Gabriel Frasca (pictured above) 617-425-3240. The “sister” of chef Jean Joho’s award-win- p. 71 Henrietta’s Table, p. 72 of Spire, and music by the Gin Blossoms. All proceeds ning Chicago restaurant combines traditional favorites (coq Theatre Cafe, p. 76 Sheraton Commander benefit the Greater Boston Food Bank. Refer to listing au vin and steak frites) with unique specialties (Uncle Top of the Hub, p. 71 Restaurant, p. 73 in Current Events, page 34. Hansi’s onion tart). Home-brewed beer, a wine list and desserts in the French tradition complete this Gallic experi- Chinese Seafood ence. Seasonal outdoor patio. B, L, D. $$ P.F. Chang’s, p. 76 Anthony’s Pier 4, p. 76 Azure, p. 68

ALLSTON/BRIGHTON CIAO BELLA, 240A Newbury St., 617-536-2626. Modern Italian Eastern Mediterranean The Barking Crab, p. 76 r

decor accented with marble and woodwork forms a graceful Lala Rokh, p. 72 B&G Oysters, p. 76 estaur *BOATHOUSE GRILL, DoubleTree Guest Suites, 400 Soldiers backdrop for the house specialty—chops. Fresh Alaskan king Chart House, p. 73 Field Road, 617-783-0090. Boathouse Grill offers elegant yet crab, tender lamb chops and veal chops head up the menu, French/French-American Dolphin Seafood, p. 72 casual dining overlooking the Charles River. Featuring grilled accompanied by moderately priced wines. L, D, LS, SB. $$ Aujourd’hui, p. 68 Gourmeli’s Seafood, p. 70 ants items and fresh seafood in abundant portions. Boathouse diners Brasserie Jo, p. 68 Great Bay, p. 75 can also enjoy a meal and a performance by a top national jazz CLIO, The Eliot Hotel, 370-A Commonwealth Ave., 617-536-7200. Cafe Fleuri, p. 73 Harborside Grill, p. 75 acts at Scullers Jazz Club as part of a package. B, L, D, SB. $ James Beard Award-winning chef Ken Oringer serves up French- Clio, p. 68 Jasper White’s Summer American fare with some striking Asian influences in a sleek, Hamersley’s Bistro, p. 76 Shack, p. 70 ants THE SUNSET GRILL & TAP, 130 Brighton Ave. (corner of Harvard sophisticated atmosphere that’s styled after a Parisian supper club. Julien, p. 74 Jimmy’s Harborside, p. 76 and Brighton avenues), Allston, 617-254-1331. This popular Bacon-wrapped foie gras, caramelized swordfish au poivre and gin- No. 9 Park, p. 72 Legal Sea Foods, p. 76 Allston hangout features Boston’s best beer selection, with more ger-glazed oxtail keep customers coming back for more. D. $$$$ Radius, p. 75 McCormick & Schmick’s

estaur than 112 beers on tap and over 400 microbrews. Its food Spire, p. 75 Seafood, p. 74

r entices too, with award-winning steam beer burgers, famous COTTONWOOD CAFE, 222 Berkeley St., 617-247-2225. Oceana, p. 74 curly fries, buffalo wings and giant nachos. L, D, C, LS, SB. $ Specialties include open-grill steaks, poultry, pasta and vege- French Country Skipjack’s, p. 70 tarian dishes. Voted “Boston’s Best Southwestern Restaurant” Hungry i, p. 72 Turner Fisheries, p. 71 and “Boston’s Best Margarita.” Reservations recommended. Wisteria, p. 76 BACK BAY Two hours free validated parking. L Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m.–2:30 Indian Ye Old Union Oyster p.m.; D daily ’til 11 p.m.; Sat & SB 11 a.m.–3 p.m. C, LS, VP. Gandhi, p. 72 House, p. 75 APROPOS, Sheraton Boston, 39 Dalton St., 617-375-6500. www.cottonwoodboston.com. $$ Drawing its influences from American International Southwestern regional cuisine with a strong New England Intrigue, p. 74 Cottonwood Cafe, p. 68 flair, the menu at Apropos offers hearty, sat- KEY AVERAGE PRICE OF Rialto, p. 72 Fajitas & ’Ritas, p. 73 isfying dishes ranging from pan-roasted B ...... Breakfast DINNER ENTREES The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, Chilean sea bass to grilled New York sirloin L ...... Lunch $ ...... Most less than $12 p. 70 Steakhouses and herbed roasted chicken. The menu, cre- D...... Dinner $$ ...... $12–18 Sonsie, p. 71 Davio’s Northern Italian ated by executive chef Joseph Nartowicz, BR ...... Brunch $$$ ...... $19–25 Zephyr on the Charles, Steakhouse, p. 73 exudes the flavors of Boston. B, L, D, SB. $$$ SB ...... Sunday Brunch $$$$ ...... Most more than $25 p. 73 The Oak Room, p. 70 C ...... Cocktails Many restaurants offer a wide AUJOURD’HUI, Four Seasons Hotel Boston, LS ..Late Supper (serving after 10 p.m.) range of entrees and prices; Irish 200 Boylston St., 617-351-2037. An elegant VP...... Valet Parking therefore, the classifications are The Green Dragon Tavern, eatery with the Public Garden as a back- NC ...... Credit Cards Not Accepted only approximations. p. 74 ___ drop, and a perennial recipient of the AAA * ...... Entertainment ___ 68 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 69

CUVÉE, 254 Newbury St., 617-536-7077. Intimately elegant, comfortable atmosphere and specialties such as blackened traditional New England cuisine with hints of the exotic. Cuvée offers the utmost in hospitality and unmatched contempo- tuna sashimi, moonfish, Maryland crabcakes and lobster. Executive chef Anthony E. Dawodu’s flavorful menu has gained rary American cuisine paired with its passionately crafted, Wine Winner of Best of Boston 2003 award for seafood. Jazz Brunch popularity for its vegetarian options and ability to cater to dietary Spectator Award-winning wine list. Enjoy a sampling of delec- Sun 11 a.m.–3 p.m. L & D Sun–Thu 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat needs. D Mon–Sat 5–11 p.m. Bar: Mon–Sat 5 p.m.–2 a.m. RESTAURANT & LOUNGE table small plates, an entree specialty, or come for a regularly ’til 11 p.m. $$ Lounge: Tue–Sat 8 p.m.–2 a.m. $$$. SEE LOCATOR #11 ON scheduled wine dinner. Patio dining is available. www.cuvee- CENTER MAP. boston.com. Open daily 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m. L, D, Sat & SB. $$$ SONSIE, 327 Newbury St., 617-351-2500. Recommended by Boston magazine as the place to “see and be seen.” The lively *TOP OF THE HUB, 800 Boylston St., Prudential Center, 617- DAISY BUCHANAN’S, 240A Newbury St. (corner of Fairfield restaurant features a streetside cafe, 50-foot mahogany bar, 536-1775. There is nothing like sitting 52 stories above Boston St.), 617-247-8516. For more than 30 years, this popular brick oven and colorful dining room. The menu by award-win- for dining and a spectacular view of the city. The magnificent get-together spot in the heart of the Back Bay has provided ning chef Bill Poirier includes tempura tuna roll with avocado, cuisine complements the breathtaking views. L, D, LS, C. Live a comfortable place to mingle and meet new and old friends mizuna and tobiko caviar and herb pappardelle with asparagus. jazz seven nights a week. $$$$ and enjoy a menu of pub specials. L, D, LS, C daily 11 a.m.– L, D, C, LS, VP. $$$ 2 a.m. $ TURNER FISHERIES, Westin Hotel Copley Place, Stuart and SPEEDER & EARL’S, Copley Square Hotel, 47 Huntington Ave., Dartmouth streets, 617-424-7425. Known for its fresh seafood *DICK’S LAST RESORT, Prudential Center, 55 Huntington Ave., 617-536-9000. Boston’s “quirkiest” breakfast and coffee bar, and winner of several regional awards, Turner’s features seven- 617-267-8080. Dick’s serves ribs and chicken by the bucket, serving traditional and innovative favorites such as eggs Benedict foot-high French windows, swooping Hollywood banquettes, 74 kinds of beer and more. SB 10 a.m.–3 p.m. includes Belgian and malted waffles. Boston’s best pastries and premium blends mahogany paneling and cobalt blue tile. Private dining rooms waffles and a make-your-own Bloody Mary bar. Live music, no of gourmet coffee from Speeder & Earl’s of Vermont are also fea- accommodate 10–140 guests. Discounted VP at The Westin cover, no dress code and definitely no class. L 11:30 a.m.– tured. B, L, Sat & SB, D. $ Hotel Copley Place. L, D, C, LS. $$$ 4 p.m.; D Sun–Thu 4 p.m.–midnight, Fri & Sat ’til 1 a.m. Contemporary American Cuisine www.dickslastresort.com. $$ STEPHANIE’S ON NEWBURY, 190 Newbury St., 617-236-0990. Lauded by The New York Times, chef/owner Stephanie Sidell’s BEACON HILL With daily offerings that include a decadent THE FOGGY GOGGLE, 911 Boylston St. (across from the Hynes), eatery showcases sophisticated cooking and classic comfort 4-Course Chef’s Tasting, sumptuous 3-Course Prix 617-266-3399. “If you don’t know how to have fun, stay home,” food. Casual elegance at its best with sidewalk cafe, club-like ANTONIO’S, 288 Cambridge St., 617-367-3310. One of Boston’s Fixe and an unforgettable a la carte menu. is the motto of this Back Bay hot spot. The crazy decor, the bar and skylit dining space. Mon–Sat 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Sun finest Italian restaurants (across from Massachusetts General enthusiastic staff and the “Foggy Fish Bowl” emphasize fun 10 a.m.–10 p.m. L, D, SB 10 a.m.–3 p.m., C, VP Tue–Sat Hospital on historic Beacon Hill). Traditional Italian food with Experience dining excellence, 33 style. above all. Late night pizza and pub food available. D, LS, C evenings. $$$ nightly specials and complementing wine list. Specials include Tue–Sat 4 p.m.–2 a.m. $ homemade fusilli, shrimp margarita and chicken/sausage vinegar 33 Stanhope Street, Boston 33 RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE, 33 Stanhope St., 617-572- peppers and potatoes. L, D Mon–Thu 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat 617.572.3311 • www.33restaurant.com GOURMELI’S SEAFOOD, Marriott Copley Place, 110 Huntington 3311. This stylish establishment offers a unique fusion of 11 a.m.–10:30 p.m. $ Ave., 617-236-5800 ext. 6741. Enjoy the sushi bar or indulge in fresh lobster, swordfish and more at this eatery in the heart of the Back Bay. Gourmeli’s offers an array of fresh New England

seafood and entrees. B, L, D. $$$ r estaur *HARD ROCK CAFE, 131 Clarendon St., two blocks from CHANG’S LETTUCE WRAPS Boylston St., 617-424-ROCK (7625). HRC Boston serves up arborside estaurant down-home American food, seasoned with a healthy dose of Harborside Restaurant ants Giving salad an rock ’n’ roll. Try the infamous “Pig” sandwich, and check out The rrestaurantestaurant with an ocean of window dressing. memorabilia including “The Aerosmithsonian,”the “Boston Wall of inferiority complex Fame,” Phish’s vacuum, Jim Morrison’s leather pants and Madonna’s bustier. L, D, C, LS. $ since 1993. ants JASPER WHITE’S SUMMER SHACK, 50 Dalton St., 617-867- 9955; 149 Alewife Brook Parkway, Cambridge, 617-520-9500.

estaur Top-notch fare such as pan-roasted lobster, award-winning fried

r chicken and impressive raw bar in a casual setting. Boston: Daily 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m., raw bar Thu–Sat ’til 1 a.m. Cambridge: Mon–Thu 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 p.m., Sun 3–9 p.m. $$$. SEE LOCATOR #7 ON CENTER MAP.

*THE OAK ROOM, 138 St. James Ave., Fairmont Copley Plaza Hotel, 617-267-5300. This sophisticated spot offers a traditional steakhouse menu of prime steaks and chops and fresh seafood. Reservations Accepted Replete with stately wood paneling, rich draperies and wall orna- ments for a comfortable yet elegant feel. B, L, D daily. Adjoining Oak Bar offers martinis, raw bar and full Oak Room menu. $$$$

*THE RITZ-CARLTON HOTEL, 15 Arlington St., 617-536-5700. This 1927 culinary landmark offers award-winning contemporary French cuisine. The historic Dining Room is available for special In the Theatre District events only. The Cafe: B, L, D, Sat & SB. The Lounge: L, D, C, LS. 8 Park Plaza • 617-573-0821 The Bar: L, D, C, LS. $$$$ (at the Transportation Building) Boston HistoricHistoric FishFish PierPier • 617.423.1000 pfchangs.com SKIPJACK’S SEAFOOD EMPORIUM, 199 Clarendon St., Copley Functions for any occasion ___ Square, 617-536-3500; other locations outside Boston. Enjoy a ___ 70 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 71

*CHEERS, 84 Beacon St., 617-227-9605. Also: Faneuil Hall SHERATON COMMANDER RESTAURANT, 16 Garden St., atrium. B Mon–Fri 6:30–11:30 a.m., Sat 7:30–11 a.m.; L daily Marketplace, 617-227-0150. Both the original Beacon Hill pub Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617-234-1365. New England-style 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; D Mon–Sat 6–10 p.m., Sun 4–10 p.m.; SB and its spinoff offer a tasty selection of traditional fare and an cuisine in a relaxed, elegant setting with a casual atmosphere. 11 a.m.–1:30 p.m. $$ abundant beverage selection, including their award-winning B, L, D, SB. $$ Bloody Mary and a variety of draft beers. Live entertainment CALITERRA, Wyndham Boston Hotel, 89 Broad St., 617-348- Thu–Sat nights, and officially licensed Cheers merchandise sold THE SPINNAKER, Hyatt Regency, 575 Memorial Dr., 1234. Located in the heart of the Financial District, this casual, on site. L, D, C, LS. $ Cambridge, 617-492-1234. Enjoy a view of the Boston skyline upscale restaurant features Cal-Ital cuisine with seasonal New and Charles River while dining in Boston’s only revolving England flavors. B, L, D. $$ THE FEDERALIST, Fifteen Beacon Hotel, 15 Beacon St., 617-670- rooftop restaurant and lounge. Spinnaker features American 2515. The menu at this elite spot brings artistic flair to dishes like cuisine for dinner and Sunday Brunch. Savor a cocktail or CHART HOUSE, 60 Long Wharf, 617-227-1576. The Chart House Colorado rack of lamb and skillet-roasted French Dover sole, in an dance under the stars on Fri & Sat evenings. D, LS, SB. boasts an impressive menu of fresh seafood, including specialties atmosphere evoking the stately class of the world’s most private Reservations recommended. $$$ like the crab, avocado and mango stack appetizer; shrimp fresca; clubs. A rooftop herb garden and in-kitchen fish tanks help to macadamia crusted mahi-mahi; slow roasted prime rib; and its ensure culinary perfection. B, D, Sat & SB, C, LS. $$$$ ZEPHYR ON THE CHARLES, Hyatt Regency Cambridge, 575 signature dessert—hot chocolate lava cake. Private parties for Memorial Drive, Cambridge, 617-441-6510. This restaurant 30 or more by reservation only. L, D, C. $$$ 1 HUNGRY I, 71 /2 Charles St., 617-227-3524. In a two-story town- serves small-portioned, tapas-like dishes, featuring eclectic fare house with three working fireplaces and an outdoor patio, Chef like sushi-grade tuna tartare and wood-grilled tiger prawns. The DAVIO’S NORTHERN ITALIAN STEAKHOUSE, 75 Arlington St., Peter Ballarin delights patrons with French country cuisine and setting features spectacular views of the Boston skyline. B, L, 617-357-4810; Royal Sonesta Hotel, 5 Cambridge Parkway, creative desserts. Signature dishes include venison au poivre and D, C. $$ Cambridge, 617-661-4810. Enjoy fine steaks, pasta and seafood, braised rabbit a la moutard. L Thu and Fri only, noon–2 p.m.; D or lighter fare in the spacious bar. The Cambridge Davio’s boasts 5:30–9:30 p.m.; SB 11 a.m.–2 p.m. Private dining rooms avail- an outdoor patio and skyline view. L Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; able. $$$$. SEE LOCATOR #6 ON CENTER MAP. DOWNTOWN D Sun–Tue 5–10 p.m., Wed–Sat ’til 11 p.m.; C, VP. www.davios.com. $$$. SEE LOCATOR #3 ON CENTER MAP. LALA ROKH, 97 Mt. Vernon St., 617-720-5511. Named for a leg- *AVENUE ONE, Hyatt Regency, Financial District, 1 Ave. de endary Persian princess, this elegant restaurant is owned by sib- Lafayette, 617-422-5579. Enjoy Boston’s most extensive fondue FAJITAS & ’RITAS, 25 West St., 617-426-1222. Established in lings Babak and Azita Bina. Using their mother’s recipes, they’ve menu in a relaxed atmosphere. Live jazz every Thu. B, L, D, C. $$ 1989, Fajitas & ’Ritas features fresh, healthy Tex-Mex and barbe- created a unique dining experience in the only restaurant of its cue cuisine. The restaurants stress generous portions, affordable kind in New England. L Mon–Fri noon–3 p.m.; D nightly 5:30–10 *CAFÉ FLEURI, Langham Hotel Boston, 250 Franklin St., 617- prices, open casual space and prompt, friendly service. Boston: p.m. Reservations recommended. VP. www.lalarokh.com. $$ 451-1900. Enjoy what Boston magazine calls “the best Sunday Mon–Tue 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m., Wed, Thu & Sat ’til 10 p.m. Fri ’til brunch in Boston” or sample a la carte Mediterranean and 11 p.m., Sun noon–8 p.m. C, LS. www.fajitasandritas.com. $. NO. 9 PARK, 9 Park St., 617-742-9991. Nationally acclaimed American fare, and French desserts—all within a sunlit garden SEE LOCATOR #4 ON CENTER MAP. chef Barbara Lynch serves up French and Italian style dishes in a sophisticated bistro atmosphere atop Beacon Hill. Chef Lynch has a subtle hand in the kitchen, turning out inventive renditions of

classic Italian and French fare such as fresh pasta and foie gras. r

L, D, LS. $$$$ estaur 617•426•2722 CAMBRIDGE ants ab casual harborside DOLPHIN SEAFOOD, 1105 Mass Ave., Cambridge, 617-661- dining in the heart 2937; 12 Washington St., Natick, 508-655-0669. These family- owned restaurants offer seafood hand-picked every morning from of boston ants the Boston piers. Complement your dish with the famous open daily for “Dolphintini” cocktail. L & D Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m. www.dolphinseafood.com. $$

estaur lunch and dinner

r GANDHI, 704 Mass. Ave., Central Square, Cambridge, 617-491- live music! 1104. Savor the scents and flavors of India and enjoy exceptional sun & wed 5–9 pm Indian cuisine in the heart of Central Square. Only the freshest produce, herbs and delicate spices are used to prepare the healthy reservations accepted fare. L daily noon–3 p.m.; D noon–11 p.m.; SB noon–3 p.m. L for parties of 6 or more buffet daily noon–3 p.m., “All you can eat” $5.95. Beer & wine. $ ant HENRIETTA’S TABLE, The Charles Hotel, One Bennett St., Cambridge, 617-661-5005. Nothing but locally grown and organic produce are used to create a lively, textured menu of reinterpreted E New England classics. Private dining room available. B Mon–Fri 88 sleeper street 6:30–11 a.m., Sat 7–11 a.m., Sun 7–10:30 a.m.; Sat and SB aur noon–3 p.m.; L Mon–Sat noon–3 p.m.; D daily 5:30–10 p.m. $

H RIALTO, The Charles Hotel, One Bennett St., Cambridge, 617- on ft. point channel 661-5050. One of Greater Boston’s top restaurants features fine wines and cuisine from France, Italy and Spain. Chef Jody Adams lends her creative talents to seasonal dinner menu items such as

T grilled pork tenderloin with Ligurian potato-cheese pie, pine nuts rest ___ barking cr and basil. D only. Reservations recommended. $$$$ ___ 72 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 73

FINALE, One Columbus Ave., 617-423-3184; 30 Dunster St., RADIUS, 8 High St., 617-426-1234. James Beard Award-win- EAST BOSTON/AIRPORT Harvard Sq., Cambridge, 617-441-9797. One of the only dessert ning chef Michael Schlow churns out impeccably prepared nou- restaurants in America, Finale features items like the caramel veau French fare such as foie gras-suffused Vermont pheasant HARBORSIDE GRILL, Hyatt Harborside, 101 Harborside Drive, carnivale and the “molten chocolate cake.” Chef Nicole Coady’s and New Zealand loin of venison in an ultra-modern, minimalist 617-568-6060. The Harborside Grill offers panoramic views of the menu is complemented by a drink menu of ports, champagnes, setting. Pastry chef Paul Connors creates rapturously delectable Boston skyline from every seat in the dining room. During the day, cordials and “Finale Favorites.” A light dinner menu is available. desserts. The ambiance is powerbroker chic, and the service is the Grill is a welcoming casual location for a bowl of chowder, and L & D. $$ top-notch. L, D, C, LS. $$$$ in the evening is transformed into a sophisticated seafood restaurant. Open daily 6 a.m.–10 p.m. B, L, D, SB, C, VP. $$$ *THE GREEN DRAGON TAVERN, 11 Marshall St., 617-367- SPIRE, Nine Zero Hotel, 90 Tremont St., 617-772-0202. 0055. Boston’s premier 18th-century tavern, located on the Alluringly ensconced in Boston’s most fashionable luxury bou- Freedom Trail, is home to Boston’s only Guinness/Oyster tique hotel, Spire features a striking interior and chef Gabriel FENWAY/KENMORE SQUARE Festival. Microbrews and a large selection of imported beers Frasca’s cuisine, which combines flavors from France, Italy, flow from its taps. Live entertainment nightly, with a traditional Spain and Portugal with seasonal New England ingredients. BRAVO, Museum of Fine Arts, 465 Huntington Ave., 617-369- Irish seisiun (session) Sat 4–8 p.m. L, D, C, Sat & SB. $ Named one of “America's 50 Best Hotel Restaurants” by Food 3474. Chef Benjamin Cevelo brings his creative touch to an eclectic and Wine. B, L, D LS, VP. $$$$ and contemporary menu. The restaurant’s bold decor, created by INTRIGUE, Boston Harbor Hotel at Rowes Wharf, 617-856-7744. famed restaurant designer Peter Niemitz, meshes with a rotating Casual elegance surrounds this unique cafe. Beautiful decor and TEATRO, 177 Tremont St., 617-778-6841. Teatro boasts a rea- selection of the MFA’s modern masterpieces. L daily 11:30 a.m.–3 breathtaking harbor views are perfect for those who desire a sonably priced Italian-influenced menu by executive chef Robert p.m.; D Wed–Fri 5:30–8:30 p.m.; SB 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m. $$$ cosmopolitan, relaxed atmosphere. Enjoy a global menu created Jean and owner/chef Jamie Mammano. The restaurant was by renowned chef Daniel Bruce. B, L, D, LS. $ named “Best Pre-Theatre Dining 2003” (Improper Bostonian) GREAT BAY, Hotel Commonwealth, 500 Commonwealth Ave., and “Best Italian Restaurant 2003” (Boston magazine). D 617-532-5300. Christopher Myers and chef Michael Schlow JER-NE RESTAURANT & BAR, The Ritz-Carlton Boston Common, Mon–Sat 5 p.m.–midnight; Sun 4–11 p.m. Reservations accept- (Radius, Via Matta) present their unique take on the seafood and 12 Avery St., 617-574-7176. Chef Jason Adams sets an uncharted ed. www.teatroboston.com. C, VP. $$$ raw bar concepts. This eclectic space in Kenmore Square serves course of adventure in contemporary cuisine, featuring American delectable fare such as fish tacos and the acclaimed baked favorites, seafood and steaks, all artistically presented. The artful YE OLDE UNION OYSTER HOUSE, 41 Union St., 617-227-2750. stuffed lobster. L, D, SB, C, LS. $$$ menu is created from a palette of lush local flavors. The restaurant Steps from Quincy Market stands America’s oldest restaurant, Langham Hotel, Boston also boasts an exhibition kitchen. B, L, D, SB, C, LS. $$$$ serving Yankee-style seafood, beef and chicken. Famed for its (formerly Le Meridien) oyster bar where Daniel Webster dined daily. Specialties include 250 Franklin Street, Boston NORTH END *JULIEN, Langham Hotel Boston, 250 Franklin St., 617-451- clam chowder, swordfish, and fresh lobster. L, D Sun–Thu 11 617.956.8752 1900. The award-winning Julien offers creative contemporary a.m.–9:30 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 10 p.m. VP. www.unionoyster- CAFFE POMPEI, 280 Hanover St., 617-227-1562. Pompei fea- www.langhamhotels.com French cuisine in a formal dining room of unparalleled elegance house.com. $$$ tures a wide variety of coffee, 160 wines by the glass, Italian and intimacy. An ideal setting for pre-theatre dining, a private business dinner or a romantic celebration. D Mon–Sat 6–10 p.m. Tapas menu available at bar Mon–Fri 4–7 p.m. $$$$ r

MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S SEAFOOD RESTAURANT, Park estaur Plaza Hotel, 34 Columbus Ave., 617-482-3999; Faneuil Hall Marketplace, North Market, 617-720-5522. Renowned for fresh seafood and lively atmosphere, M & S also offers steak, chicken ants and pasta dishes. Daily 11 a.m.–11:30 p.m., Fri & Sat ‘til midnight. Bar menu Mon–Fri 3:30–6:30 p.m., Sat & Sun 10 p.m.–midnight. $$$ ants MERITAGE, Boston Harbor Hotel at Rowes Wharf, 617-439- 3995. Fresh, seasonal cuisine is carefully matched to an appropriate vintage from the 12,000-bottle wine collection. The restau-

estaur rant’s interior combines slate, marble, exotic wood and leather,

r creating a luxurious atmosphere to accompany a hearty meal. All menu items come in appetizer and entree sizes. D, LS. $$$$

MUSEUM OF SCIENCE, Science Park, 617-723-2500. Forget dinner and a movie—now it’s brunch and a movie at the noon- time Skyline Sunday Brunch. The package includes tickets to Museum’s newest IMAX film, admission to the exhibit halls and free parking. Tickets: $32; seniors $31; children $30. Prices range from $45.00 to $56.00 Reservations recommended. $ Children under 12, $17.50. Sunday seatings: 11:00 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. OCEANA, Marriott Long Wharf Hotel, 296 State St., 617-227- 3838. One of Boston’s premier seafood spots. Boasting a breathtaking view of the Harbor, Oceana offers uniquely prepared fresh seafood. B, L, D, SB. $$

Langham Hotel, Boston (formerly Le Meridien) PARKER’S RESTAURANT, Omni Parker House, 60 School St., 250 Franklin Street, Boston 617-725-1600. Executive chef Jerry Tice celebrates nostalgic 617.451.1900, ext. 7125 cuisine with a contemporary flair. The stately dining room www.langhamhotels.com reflects the rich culinary heritage that lives on at the birthplace ___ of Boston cream pie and the Parker House roll. B, L, D. $$$$ ___ 74 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 75

cordials, pizza, Italian sandwiches, homemade cannoli and ice THE BARKING CRAB, 88 Sleeper St., 617-426-CRAB. No frills cream imported from Italy. Open daily 4 p.m.–12:30 a.m.; B 8 at this ramshackle little clam shack that’s a Boston dining insti- a.m.–11:30 p.m.; L 11:30 a.m.–4 p.m.; LS ’til 3:30 a.m. SEE tution. Pluck mussels and steamers from plastic buckets and LOCATOR #2 ON CENTER MAP. $ drink wine out of styrofoam cups under an outdoor tent brim- Boston’s Tables ming with communal-style picnic tables. L & D Sun–Wed 11:30 CAFFE VITTORIA, 296 Hanover St., 617-227-7606. This popu- a.m.–11 p.m., Thu–Sat ’til 1 a.m. SEE LOCATOR #1 ON lar European-style cafe in the North End offers a variety of CENTER MAP. $$ desserts, cappuccino and espresso. Sun–Thu 8 a.m.–midnight, Fri & Sat ’til 12:30 a.m. NC. $ JIMMY’S HARBORSIDE, 242 Northern Ave., 617-423-1000. Since 1924, visitors and natives alike have enjoyed Jimmy’s DAVIDE, 326 Commercial St., 617-227-5745. Boasts an Harborside. The waterfront location offers views of historic upscale yet casual atmosphere with Northern Italian-inspired Boston Harbor and the menu features award-winning chow- dishes. Accolades include the Zagat Award, The Five-Star ders, Maine lobster, traditional Boston haddock and jumbo Diamond Award and plaudits from Wine Spectator. All pastas baked stuffed shrimp. Mon–Thu noon–9:30 p.m., Fri & Sat and desserts made fresh on premises. Reservations recom- ’til 10 p.m., Sun 4–9 p.m. VP. $$$. SEE LOCATOR #8 ON mended. L Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; D daily 5–10 p.m. C, CENTER MAP. VP. $$$

FLORENTINE CAFE, 333 Hanover St., 617-227-1777. Revered SOUTH END by visitors and residents for decades, this historic cafe is one of Boston’s culinary landmarks. Lobster ravioli with tomatoes and B&G OYSTERS, 550 Tremont St., 617-423-0550. This sophisti- lobster cream sauce and seared veal with grilled shrimp in cated South End raw bar from James Beard Award-winning Frangelico mushroom sauce are just two of the Italian wonders chef Barbara Lynch (No. 9 Park) and partner Garrett Harker fea- awaiting you in this charming bistro setting. Daily noon–1 a.m. tures bivalves from Wellfleet to the West Coast, as well as sig- L, D, C. $$$. SEE LOCATOR #5 ON CENTER MAP. nature dishes like the lobster BLT and the Maine lobster roll. L, D, LS, VP. $$ LUCCA RESTAURANT & BAR, 226 Hanover St., 617-742-9200. Winner of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2002, Zagat HAMERSLEY’S BISTRO, 533 Tremont St., 617-423-2700. This Survey’s “Top New Restaurant 2002” and winner of Best of pioneering French-American classic, helmed by the husband Boston 2001, this eatery is racking up raves for its regional and wife team of Gordon and Fiona Hamersley, first put the Italian cuisine, superb wine list, lively bar and elegant South End dining scene on the map. Try the duck confit or the ambiance. D nightly 5–11 p.m.; Sat & Sun ’til 11:30 p.m.; bar roast chicken with garlic, lemon and parsley. Long regarded as menu ’til 12:15 a.m.; C ’til 1 a.m. VP. $$$. SEE LOCATOR #9 one of the city’s top tables. D. $$$$ ON CENTER MAP.

MAMMA MARIA, 3 North Square, 617-523-0077. “Mamma THEATRE DISTRICT Maria stands for what Italian food is. Simplicity, quality ingredients and fun…the food of love.” (Emeril Lagasse, 2004). LEGAL SEA FOODS RESTAURANT, 26 Park Plaza, Park Square Mamma Maria offers charming views of the neighborhood and Motor Mart, 617-426-4444; 255 State St., Long Wharf, 617- ants city skyline, as well as a Wine Spectator Award-winning wine 227-3115; Prudential Center, 800 Boylston St., 617-266-6800; list. D Sun–Thu 5–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 p.m. VP. www.mam- other locations. For more than 50 years, Legal Sea Foods has mamaria.com. $$$. SEE LOCATOR #10 ON CENTER MAP. served the freshest seafood possible, including oysters, succulent New England lobsters and its famous clam “chowda.” MASSIMINO’S CUCINA ITALIANA, 207 Endicott St., 617-523- Extensive wine list. L & D. $$$ 5959. Owner/chef Massimino was formerly head chef of Naples’ Hotel Astoria and Switzerland’s Metropolitan Hotel. His P.F. CHANG’S, 8 Park Plaza, Theatre District, 617-573-0821.

estaur eatery’s specialties include veal chop stuffed with arugula, pro- Traditional Chinese cuisine and American hospitality combine in

r sciutto, smoked mozzarella and black olives, amongst other this upbeat bistro. Specialties include Chang’s chicken in sooth- delights. L, D, LS, C. Mon–Thu 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til ing lettuce wraps, Dan Dan noodles and orange peel shrimp. 11 p.m.; Sun noon–9 p.m. $ Enjoy an impressive list of over 50 wines. Reservations accepted. L & D Sun–Wed 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Thu–Sat ’til midnight. C, LS. $$ SOUTH BOSTON WATERFRONT THEATRE CAFE, Radisson Hotel, 200 Stuart St., 617-574-2752. ANTHONY’S PIER 4, 140 Northern Ave., 617-482-6262. For 37 Located in the heart of the theater district, this restaurant fea- years, this Boston institution has tempted diners with Maine tures traditional American fare in a comfortable atmosphere lobster, fresh New England seafood, imported Dover sole, prime and is a great location for pre- and post-theater dining. steaks and a huge wine list. The dining room offers a view of Seasonal outdoor dining and discounted parking at on-site Boston Harbor and the city skyline. L & D Mon–Fri 11:30 garage is available. B, L, D. $$ a.m.–10 p.m., Sat noon–11 p.m., Sun noon–10 p.m. $$ WISTERIA, Doubletree Hotel Boston, 821 Washington St., 617- AURA, Seaport Hotel, One Seaport Lane, 617-385-4300. Aura’s 956-7900. This restaurant and bar with a nouveau Asian twist Your guide to dining out in the Hub seasonal menus showcase a passion for using fresh, local offers an innovative menu that synthesizes New England ingredients in his recipes. Chef John Merrill partners with local seafood and Asian cuisine. Impeccable service and attention to farmers and fishermen to select freshly harvested vegetables, detail are apparent, from the unique presentation of entrees on seafood that is just off the boat and specially aged meats and signature china to the welcoming hotel towel offered upon ___ cheeses to create his award-winning meals. B, L, D, SB. $$$ being seated. L & D. $$$ SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION 76 PANORAMA

ON THE MENU

ANTIPASTI Fagottini ai Funghi di Bosco: Puff pastry stuffed with wild mushrooms and fontina cheese in a marsala sauce o Capesante a Forno: Roasted scallops in a red pepper sauce with basil oil

PRIMI Fusilli alla Boscaiola: Hand-rolled pasta with wild mushroom, prosciutto in a parmigiano cream sauce DAVIDE PESCE 326 Commercial St., North End • 617-227-5745 Tonno e Capesante Balsamico: Pan-seared www.daviderestaurant.com tuna and scallop in a balsamic reduction with fresh diced tomato and basil n integral part of the North End’s dining scene for over CARNI 20 years, Davide first opened in 1982. While reflecting Carre D’Angello all’Aglio e A the rich traditions of Northern Italy, the dishes amaze Rosmarino: Roasted rack of lamb diners with their originality. Davide has earned numerous with a roasted garlic and rosemary accolades over the years, including recognition as one of the ON THE MENU crust in Barolo wine nation’s top 50 Italian restaurants, and boasts one of the finest CHART HOUSE wine lists in the city. RAW BAR 60 Long Wharf Crab, Avocado and Mango Stack 617-227-1576 chart-house.com Seared Peppered Ahi Tuna ON THE MENU Open for dinner Mon–Fri 5–10 p.m., Shrimp Cocktail Sat 4–10:30 p.m., Sun 4–10 p.m. SMALL PLATES APPETIZERS Szechwan Lobster over et Chart House take you to a place where time stands still, Coconut Crunchy Shrimp vegetable beurre blanc o Roasted the historic Hancock Counting House. This Boston land- Lobster Spring Rolls Duck Pot-stickers o Wild Mushroom mark once housed the offices of John Hancock, an Jumbo Lump Crab Cake L Ravioli in a herbed truffle broth o American Patriot. And Chart House celebrates this legacy with Smoked Salmon-wrapped Sea an interior design boasting original artwork, artifacts and per- SEAFOOD Scallops over béarnaise sonal belongings such as a silver teapot displaying the Hancock Steamed Maine Lobster o Dynamite family crest and portraits of John Hancock himself and the Mahi Mahi o Herb Crusted Salmon ENTRÉE SPECIALTIES Hancock House at 30 Beacon Street. o Spiced Yellowfin Ahi o Pan Seared “The Filet”—poached filet mignon Experience their million-dollar renovations firsthand while Sea Scallops o Baked Stuffed Shrimp with roasted new potatoes, savoring a seamless blend of high quality seafood and steaks— o Alaskan King Crab Legs o asparagus spears and béarnaise CUVÉE including whole, steamed lobster, cracked for you right at your Dungeness Crab Clusters sauce o Pan-seared Tuna Steak— 254 Newbury St. • 617-536-7077 table, and prime rib rubbed with aromatic herbs and spices and roasted peppers, ginger shiitake www.cuveeboston.com slow roasted to succulent perfection. PRIME RIB & STEAKS mushrooms & bok choy o Chart House's location near the New England Aquarium, right Prime Rib o Filet Mignon o New “The Veal”—sautéed cutlet topped ntimately elegant, Cuvée offers the utmost in hospitality and on Boston Harbor, allows this casual dining spot to further draw York Strip o Tenderloin Medallions with Alaskan king crab, chives, unmatched contemporary American cuisine paired with its on the region's best features, with its heralded service and atmos- shallots, asparagus and Ipassionately crafted, Wine Spectator Award-winning wine phere providing patrons with a relaxed, casual atmosphere. DESSERT hollandaise o Roast Chicken list. Enjoy a sampling of delectable small plates or an entrée Hot Chocolate Lava Cake Pasta Ravioli in a farmers specialty, or come for a regularly scheduled wine dinner. Lunch Raspberry Crème Brulée vegetable broth and dinner are served daily, with brunch on Saturday and Sunday, and patio dining is available.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Theatre District Dining neighborhoods

Best Italian Restaurant 2003 —Boston Magazine 177 Tremont St., Boston 617.778.6841 www.teatroboston.com reservations accepted 123

1 1237 Hancock St. 25 West Sreet Quincy Center Boston Common 617-774-1200 617-426-1222 www.fajitasandritas.com 4 indexindex NORTH END 82

2 BACK BAY 86

BEACON HILL 88

SOUTH END 90 ONE IF BY LAND: 3 The oldest standing church in Boston, the Old North Church, CAMBRIDGE 92 was adorned with two lanterns, signalling the arrival of British soldiers in 1775. It continues to attract visitors to Boston’s historic North End. Refer to page 82.

___ SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION PHOTO BY D ELLA H UFF SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 81

WINE SPECTATOR AWARD OF EXCELLENCE 2002 NORTHNORTH ENDEND TOP 5 NORTH END EXPERIENCES:

1. Mike’s Pastry, 300 Hanover St., 617-742-3050. This renowned purveyor of cannoli, biscotti, torrone and other delicious baked goods has been satisfying sweet tooths for decades.

2. Paul Revere House, 19 North Square, 617-523-2338. Built in 1680, the home of the legendary Revolutionary figure is the oldest building in downtown Boston. “ZAGAT SURVEY, TOP NEWCOMER 2002” 3. Polcari’s Coffee, 105 Salem St., 617-227-0786. Perhaps the best smelling-store you’ll ever enter, REGIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE Polcari’s has been a fixture of the North End for Dinner Nightly from 5 generations, selling coffee, loose tea, grains and Late night menu until 12:15 a.m. spices from all around the world. Drinks until 1 a.m. 226 Hanover St., North End, Boston 4. Old North Church, 195 Salem St., 617-523- (617) 742-9200 • www.luccaboston.com 6676. Also known as Christ Church, Boston’s oldest Valet Parking — Private Function Room standing church was built 230 years ago. It’s from Old World Sicilian, tradi- TIME TRAVELING: North Square’s the upstairs window that colonists hung lanterns Old World cobblestoned streets play host to not only tional Northern Italian or fine Italian eateries, but also to the historic to warn of the Redcoats’ departure for Lexington Charm Mediterranean fusion. And Paul Revere House on the Freedom Trail. and Concord. though the ambience can be Renowned as Boston’s boisterous, romantic or 5. North End Market Tour, 64 Cross St., 617-523- “Little Italy,” the North End somewhere in between, the smith/patriot/midnight 6032. Longtime North End resident Michele Topor is constantly brimming setting is usually intimate, rider and his family leads award-winning culinary tours of the neighbor- with the aroma of garlic with patrons rubbing (including 16 children!) hood three days a week, clueing visitors into the best neighborhoods and freshly cooked cuisine. elbows with one another cont. on page 84 >> places for pastry, produce and more. But its storied history is in crowded dining rooms— also part of its charm. The it’s all part of the oldest neighborhood in the European feel. Nouvelle Italian Cuisine city, it gave birth to the One of Boston’s most featuring a variety of American Revolution on its well-known attractions is, meats and fresh fish... narrow cobblestone streets of course, the Freedom Specials prepared daily; and has been home to wave Trail. Three of its sites are Pan seared veal with after wave of new immi- located in the North End. grilled shrimp, housemade grants. Today, the North The Paul Revere House, lobster ravioli and Certified End remains one of the Boston’s oldest home Black Angus beef. Full bar neighborhoods most European neighbor- built circa 1680, was occu- and private function hoods in America. pied by the famed silver- room available. The North End is widely known for its abundance of 333 HANOVER ST., BOSTON Italian restaurants. The cui- THE OLD NEIGHBORHOOD: Dozens 617.227.1777 sine is authentic and con- of local shops offering authentic Italian goods from coffee to cold cuts and pastry to pasta www.florentinecafeboston.com ___ sistently delicious, whether line the streets of the North End. ___ PHOTOS BY D ELLA H UFF 82 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 83

NORTH END

617.720.0422

WWW.DOLCEVITARISTORANTE.COM

221 HANOVER STREET | BOSTON | MA THE BEST VIEW OF BOSTON IS RIGHT HERE

The Official Guide to BOSTON “BEST ITALIAN CUISINE. Advertise in our new By far the best restaurant in the North End, Neighborhoods section Mamma Maria might be the best in town.” For information, call 617-423-3400 Frommer’s Boston 2005 three north square, boston (617) 523-0077 www.mammamaria.com

<< cont. from page 82 Italian villages and center CELEBRATE GOOD TIMES: from 1770–1800. Christ Church, a.k.a. the around jubilant parades of Processions and Old North Church, Boston’s oldest stand- the saints’ statues through festivals celebrating ing church (built in 1723) served as the the North End’s winding the feast days of Caffé various saints take signal tower that spurred Revere on his roadways. Food vendors, over the streets of the jaunt through the countryside. And Copp’s hawking everything from North End throughout

Pompei neighborhoods Hill Burying Ground, founded in 1660 as sausage to calamari, the summer. Restaurant open daily Offering a Creative Menu the Hub’s second cemetery, provided the add their own flavor to from 4 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. Specializing in Fresh final resting place of many famous colo- the scene. Seafood and Homemade Serving Breakfast from 8 a.m. nials, such as the Puritan preachers of the If you’re looking for belly laughs Pasta. Visit the Hyatt to 11:30 a.m. and Lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Mather family, including Salem Witch instead of a full belly, have a seat at the Harborside and Relax in Trial-era firebrand Cotton Mather, and Improv Asylum on Hanover Street to take Our Unique Atmosphere, Late night menu available Enjoy the Spectacular View ’til 3:30 a.m. Edmund Hartt, whose shipyard construct- in the wild antics of this innovative ed the U.S. Navy’s flagship U.S.S. comedy troupe. The Asylum offers off-the- of the Boston Skyline and Taste What Boston Is SPECIALIZING IN Constitution. cuff fun and hilarity at its original North Talking About. ITALIAN CUISINE In keeping with its Old World charac- End venue. ter, the North End observes many tradi- And if you haven’t had enough of good

neighborhoods 280 HANOVER ST. tions imported from the shores of Europe. old Paul Revere, check out Paul Revere NORTH END One such annual rite is the weekly Italian Tonight, which runs at the Old North Hyatt Harborside 101 Harborside Drive BOSTON, MA 02113 feasts and processions, kept alive by immi- Church during the summer and fall. Boston, MA 02128 TEL: 617-227-1562 grants and their descendents, that take Award-winning actor David Conner re- (617) 568-6060 place throughout the summer and enliven creates this legendary figure and tells the www.boston.hyatt.com [email protected] FAX: 617-227-1562 this already spirited locale. These specta- oft-untold stories of Revere’s upbringing ___ cles usually celebrate the patron saints of and his midnight ride. ___ ABOVE PHOTO COURTESY OF THE G REATER 84 PANORAMA B OSTON C ONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 85

ciaobella.nov2004 10/5/04 11:00 AM Page 1 BACKBACK BAYBAY

cafe e ristorante

lunch • dinner • sunday brunch patio dining

featuring a new menu with updated classics

at the corner of newbury & fairfield streets, boston

617-536-2626 www.ciaobella.com

Once the swamp was gone, In Style RIVER VIEW: The picturesque Back architect Arthur Gilman Bay skyline, appointed by the Hancock and drew up the plans to build Prudential towers, overlooks the Charles River Esplanade. It’s the great American a largely uniform series of success story: rising from three- and four-story the humblest of beginnings brownstones. prominent feature is the to achieve prestige and Real estate is pricey in alphabetical cross streets, creative southwestern cuisine greatness. As such, this highly desired neigh- which intersect main PHOTO BY S COTT ROBERTO

222 Berkeley Street neighborhoods Boston’s chic Back Bay may borhood—bordered on the residential thouroughfares you. Once your shopping is Copley Square, Boston OLD AND NEW: 617.247.2225 well be the ultimate north by the Charles River, of Beacon Street, Trinity Church and the complete (or you just need American neighborhood— Arlington Street to Park Marlborough Street and Hancock Tower, two to rest and reload), the of the city’s most snakebites classically beautiful Square on the east, Commonwealth Avenue, as prominent architect- street also boasts ice brownstone residences, Columbus Avenue to well as the commercial ural landmarks, stand cream shops like JP Licks angus ranch strip steak paired with block after Huntington Avenue, boulevards of Newbury and side by side in Copley and Ben and Jerry’s, and Square. block of high-end, glam- Dalton Street and the Boylston streets. fashionable restaurants fire and spice pasta orous retail space, on a Massachusetts Turnpike on The Back Bay draws a and bars like Sonsie, mango margaritas stretch of land that was the south, and Charlesgate high number of visitors Stephanie’s on Newbury once a fetid marsh. East on the west—and it’s because of Newbury Street, and Ciao Bella, great for outdoor dining. fresh grilled salmon fillet Between 1857 and 1882, easy to understand why which has been referred to The Back Bay is also home to some of neighborhoods what we know as today’s when one strolls past the as “the East Coast’s own Boston’s architectural standouts—from the 20% food discount for parties of six to Back Bay was a tidewater gorgeous old brick build- Rodeo Drive.” If you’re itch- classic beauty of Trinity Church (built in twenty guests with this ad flat for the Charles River. ings, amply shaded by ing to rev up the charge 1877) and the Boston Public Library, to Gradually it was filled in, trees, and within short cards, and names like Boston’s largest and most impressive mod- Just a few reasons to come visit us. the largest part of a project walking distance of pictur- Gucci, Cartier, Chanel and ern skyscrapers, the 62-story John Hancock www.cottonwoodboston.com that would more than esque Boston Common and DKNY get your heart racing, Tower and the Prudential Center, which ___ double the size of the city. the Public Garden. Another then this is the place for houses offices, restaurants and shops. *two hours free parking back bay garage after 5 p.m. ___ A BOVE PHOTO BY D ELLA H UFF 86 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 87

BEACONBEACON HILLHILL

BOSTON’S HIDDEN JEWEL

PHOTO BY S COTT ROBERTO RESERVATIONS SUGGESTED 711/2 Charles Street, Beacon Hill SEAT OF POWER: blance to its European 617.227.3524 Gray Otis, William Scollay The golden-domed roots—narrow cobblestone Heart One of the most State House atop ROAD TO THE PAST: panorama 1/4 page january 2003 and Charles Bulfinch, who photographed streets in the city, Acorn Beacon Hill is the streets and gas-lit street- of the City were all property owners Street and its cobblestoned surface are a legislative heart of lamps still abound. While throwback to a bygone era. Massachusetts. here. Beyond that, Beacon other areas of Boston are A True Taste As much as early Hill has remained the seat loaded with trendy restau- Bostonians struggled to of political power in rants and designer bou- of Eastern define themselves as mem- Boston. The Massachusetts luminaries), King’s Chapel tiques, visitors to Beacon Hill are more bers of a separate nation, State House was completed and, on School Street, the likely to find quaint antique shops along Mediterranean neighborhoods and not English citizens, at the top of Beacon Hill in site of America’s first public Charles Street and “local” restaurants, off remnants of the Old World’s 1798, and in 1874 it school (in 1856, a statue of the beaten path but beloved for genera- in Historic Boston culture, morality and, par- received the gold leaf finish Benjamin Franklin was tions. One exception is the original place Tucked away in Boston’s historic Beacon Hill is ticularly, its physical archi- on its massive dome, which, erected near the site). One “where everybody knows your name”—the Lala Rokh, featuring the culinary delights of Persia. tecture were bound to live thanks to diligent mainte- spot on the Trail not to be Bull & Finch Pub, used as the inspiration Since its opening in 1995, the restaurant has received on in Boston. Today, there’s nance and renovations over missed is the Old State for the classic sitcom “Cheers” can be found ecstatic reviews by some of the country’s toughest critics including Zagat, Gourmet and Food & Wine nowhere in Boston that this the years, still shines bril- House, at the corner of on Beacon Street and still draws in throngs magazines. For a memorable evening of distinctive still holds true more than liantly today. Washington and State of tourists annually. cuisine, beautiful surroundings and gracious hospitality, the historically upper-class It’s here that visitors to streets. In 1776, the And for those who cherish the outdoors, visit the Mediterranean world of Lala Rokh. environs of the Beacon the Freedom Trail begin Declaration of Beacon Hill shares the Boston Common Hill neighborhood. their travels—passing by Independence was first with Downtown, offering visitors the neighborhoods Beacon Hill has tradi- historical landmarks such publicly read in Boston opportunity to take advantage of a natural tionally been the home of as Park Street Church, the from the building’s east oasis upon which to throw a Frisbee, soak leaders—Boston’s first Old Granary Burying balcony, and the building up some sun, ride a foot-pedaled Swan mayor, John Phillips, lived Ground (final resting place overlooks the site of the Boat through the Public Garden, or simply here, as well as instrumen- of John Hancock, Paul Boston Massacre in 1770. sit on a bench and watch the world go by, 97 Mt. Vernon Street, Beacon Hill tal figures in the formation Revere, Samuel Adams and Physically, the neighbor- the way generations of Bostonians have 720-5511 ___ of Boston, such as Harrison other Revolution-era hood still bears resem- done before. ___ A BOVE PHOTO BY D ELLA H UFF 88 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 89

SOUTHSOUTH ENDEND But it’s the aroma of the culinary arts that most notably attracts visitors to the South End. It was Gordon Hamersley, award- winning chef/owner of Hamersley’s Bistro, who first lit the flames on this hot dining scene when he opened up shop in a quaint storefront on Tremont Street in 1983, trigger- ing a now-thriving scene that includes cuisine from Southern barbecue to Ethiopian. The very essence of the South End resists stereotypes. Its only predictable elements are the breathtaking architectural detail and the community’s open-mind- ed, colorful character. Beloved Bostonian John F. Kennedy might have envisioned a place such as this when he said: “I look forward

to an America that will EASY BEING GREEN: reward achievement in Picturesque green spaces the arts as we reward dot the South End, such as this park in Blackstone achievement in business Square. or statecraft.” PHOTO BY K ATRINA S CANLAN jection near Arlington VICTORIAN SPLENDOR: The Hip in bow-fronted Victorian row houses of Street containing Bay the South End remain and indelible part the City Village—is as old as of the neighborhood’s character. Boston, but it has seen It’s not Southie. It’s not the more change during the new SoHo. And it’s not past 300 years than per- ances and residencies; and stereotypical, eggheaded haps any other neighbor- develops outreach pro- Boston. Nestled beneath hood in the city. Today, the grams to promote the arts. neighborhoods the afterglow of the John South End is regarded not The results have been dra- Hancock Tower, just beyond only for its beautiful, nar- matic. Two BCA regulars the roar of the Mass. row streets and Victorian are bringing critical If you’re not having a good time, Turnpike, a thriving com- bow-front row houses, but acclaim to the South End’s munity is hard at work also for its presence in the performing arts scene— building a utopia of Old arts, its vibrant gay com- the avant-garde SpeakEasy World architectural munity, its fine restaurants Stage Company and the preservation and a and its racial diversity. Irish troupe of the Sugan progressive cultural charis- The Hub of the South Theatre Company. The ma all its own. End, however, remains the two performance spaces at The South End—encom- opulent dome of the Boston the BCA’s new Calderwood neighborhoods passing an area bordered Center for the Arts’ Theatre Pavilion have check your pulse. by South Bay on the east Cyclorama Building. From provided a larger home and running south along this focal point, the non- for these acclaimed 40 fabulous years Massachusetts Avenue, profit BCA provides artists troupes, as well as a with another side on the with affordable work second stage for the LATE NIGHT BISTRO MENU,, LIVE JAZZ NIGHTLY north outlined by the space; sponsors exhibi- widely hailed Huntington 617.536.1775 800 Boylston Street, Prudential Center, Boston ___ Turnpike and a small pro- tions, theatrical perform- Theatre Company. ___ PHOTO BY S COTT ROBERTO 90 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 91

CAMBRIDGECAMBRIDGE Inman Square Just north of Central Square, the more residential, quieter Inman Square prides BAR & GRILLE itself on hometown sensibility, with a diverse working-class population, many of whom speak Portuguese. No elitism here: GET HOOKEDA LOCAL FAVORITE SINCE ON 1974 US! the area’s only monument is the Cambridge Fireman’s Mural. It is a place where food brings people together, whether at a range of local ethnic markets or at restaurants known for their bold flavors, like Chris Schlesinger’s East Coast Grill. It does get rowdy over at the ImprovBoston, where an acclaimed comedy troupe spoofs on sports, mystery and pop-culture with jamboree music and gen- 0 eral “joyful chaos.” Local and up-and-com- DAILY HAND PICKED SEAFOOD 0 ing national jazz acts entertain music EXOTIC COCKTAILS 0 lovers at Ryles Jazz Club. UNBEATABLE PRICES 1105 MASS AVE., HARVARD SQUARE, Kendall Square CAMBRIDGE, (617) 661-2937 Central Square World’s Fair. DOME, SWEET DOME: The legendary Kendall Square, home to MIT—with its Square dome at MIT has served as the site of many It’s lined with coffee shops, infamous student pranks, or “hacks,” over conspicuous concrete dome, the scene of Deal burrito joints, down-home the years. many famous pranks—looks more like a music stores, and its own high-brow business park than a neighbor- The people of Cambridge share of great restaurants hood. Among the modern, sleek bio-tech would like to inform the like La Groceria, Gandhi homonymous Harvard firms and research labs, there are more world that their fine city is and Centro. Every night of University, which makes its than a few secret hiding places for fun. At not a neighborhood of the week, fans of rock, jazz, quaint presence on the north the Kendall Square Cinema, movie buffs fresh & honest neighborhoods Boston. Although it often hip-hop and the blues line side of the square. With all can check out foreign and independent gets lumped together with up at the doors of venues this intellectual energy flow- films along with ice cream and espresso. Beantown, Cambridge stands such as the Middle East ing, it’s no surprise that And for shoppers, the CambridgeSide alone with all the sustaining Cafe, T.T. the Bear’s Place Harvard Square has been Galleria houses over 100 stores, including qualities of an international and Green Street Grill. dubbed “the book mecca of Banana Republic, J. Crew and Best Buy. city center. Throughout the world.” Not everyone Kendall, Central, Inman, here is a student, though. A serving breakfast, lunch, Harvard Square Porter Square Harvard and Porter Squares, walk along Massachusetts supper and brunch nearly 100,000 residents The grand cultural and Avenue or JFK Street The young, artistic crowd influences the share a spirited range of geographical nucleus of reveals musicians, magi- stretch of Cambridge just beyond Harvard cultural influences. Cambridge houses six per- cians and street performers, Square. Porter Square, on the outskirts of neighborhoods forming arts theaters, three who add color to the Mass. Ave., is full of eclectic second-hand movie theaters, nine muse- already bustling square. shops and home to restaurants like the Central Square ums, over 100 restaurants Diners flock to Harvard Cambodian-French favorite Elephant Walk 617.661.5005 Central Square sets a swift and more than 400 retail Square for the food as well, and the Temple Bar. For a feel of the at the charles hotel pace as the social center for stores. History is every- at favorites like Henrietta’s avant-garde arts scene, head to the harvard square Cambridge professionals where, including storied Table, UpStairs on the provocative Lizard Lounge for a poetry www.charleshotel.com ___ and is home to the annual Harvard Yard, home of the Square and Dolphin Seafood. jam or live music. ___ A BOVE PHOTO BY D ELLA H UFF 92 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 12–25, 2005 93

questions with… 5 FOR YOUR Dave Andelman by Josh B. Wardrop PAST,

ince 1993, Bostonians have been getting Srestaurant advice from “The Phantom Gourmet.” The mysterious “Phantom” (a food critic whose true identity is unknown to restaurants and the public) dishes on everything from PRESENT, ritzy restaurants to the best burgers each week on Boston’s UPN38 TV. Phantom CEO Dave Andelman talks about the hit program, which has inspired this month’s Phantom Gourmet Food Festival. Refer to listing, page 34. AND Q: What was the impetus for “Phantom Gourmet?” A: Our philosophy was to rate Boston-area restaurants using a formula of food and fun. People don’t just want cooking tips, but FUTURE practical restaurant recommenda- A: It costs $25 at the door to tions because eating out is so sample signature items from popular. the best restaurants in It’s actually Boston. [Plus} we’ve taken “ Q: Are you asked for restaurant over Lansdowne Street for in [The THE THREE-STONE DIAMOND RING suggestions a lot? private parties in the clubs Phantom A: It’s funny, for years people want- [like] a celebrity poker game ed to talk sports with me because at Avalon and a Phantom Gourmet’s] of my dad (local sports radio per- viewing party at Game On. contract sonality Eddie Andelman). Now, if I’m recognized, I’m holding court Q: What are the “can’t that I have JosephJoseph Gann Gann on food. miss” restaurants in town? to fire him A: Definitely go to Jasper if people LLC Q: How hard is it to keep The White’s Summer Shack. It’s JewelersJewelers Phantom’s identity secret? so unique to have a fine find out SINCE 1933 A: Very. We don’t even let ourselves dining chef open basically a be in the same room. It’s actually in clam shack on steroids. You who he 387 Washington Street, 4th Floor • Boston his contract that I have to fire him if gotta have at least one meal is. people find out who he is. in the North End. Probably ” 617-426-4932 • Fax 617-426-9028 Strega for fine dining, or a www.josephgann.com Q: What can we expect from the slice of pepperoni at Pizzeria 1-800-44-DIAMOND (443-4266) ___Food Festival on September 24? Regina. PHOTO BY 94 PANORAMA Y EHESHUA J OHNSON 14001400 WWorcesterorcester RdRd (Rte(Rte 9)9) NNatickatick 550808 662828-99009900