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Journal of the 2017 Cemes Study Pilgrimage to Jerusalem

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Journal of the 2017 Cemes Study Pilgrimage to Jerusalem JOURNAL OF THE 2017 CEMES STUDY PILGRIMAGE TO JERUSALEM DAY 1 Friday 24 November Tour of the West Bank, Visit to Bethlehem, Visit to Synagogue and Jewish Families for Shabbat Evening Meal The view over the Temple Mount towards to Mt of Olives from St Peter in Gallicantu, where we stayed with the Assumptionist Fathers in their Pilgrim Guest House. On the first morning we had a tour of the different communities straddling the 1967 Green line with a former Israeli soldier who now leads study tours of the occupied territories. The view above is of a Palestinian refugee camp just next to the Mt of Olives, rubbish is strewn down the mountainside as the City of Jerusalem provides no normal street services in the Camp. The Security Wall, just at the bottom of the Mount of Olives. The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem with examples of newly found mosaics dating from Crusader times in the Byzantine style. The Christmas Tree in Manger Square The Grotto of the Nativity, in the Church of the Nativity The Altar of the Milk Grotto, in the Franciscan Church near the Church of the Nativity. The Kol HaNeshama Synagogue The home of Rabbi Dr Michael Marmur and his wife Dr Sarah Bernstein with their three children and Rabbi Marmur’s father Rabbi Dove Marmur. Our group had just attended the Shabbat evening service at their Synagaogue – The Kol HaNeshama Synagogue, in the Reform Tradition. Rabbi Michael is Provost of Hebrew Union College – Institute of Religion Jerusalem and his wife Dr Sarah Bernstein is the Executive Director of the Rossing Centre for Education and Dialogue – an interfaith organisation in Jerusalem. Donald Nicholl once said that “The task of the Christian is not to be neutral—but to be torn in two,” a statement presented at the outset of the 2017 CEMES Jerusalem study pilgrimage by our guide, Dr. Clare Amos. This challenge provided a framework for our formative experiences, beginning with a difficult but indispensable introduction to the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. After a quick recovery from our Thursday flights, we made an early start on Friday for a political tour of the Palestinian neighborhoods in Jerusalem. Our guide was Naveed, a former member of the Israeli Defense Force, who led us through Israeli settlements and walled Palestinian neighborhoods. He offered an historical overview of the political conflicts, taking care to humanise the “issues” by encouraging us to notice the people who are suffering on both sides. We observed that Naveed stands in a gap between his own Israeli identity and the Palestinian people for whom he advocates. Naveed’s personal story of engaging in and forsaking the violent struggle in the West Bank was unsettling—nearly as unsettling as the ghettoised Palestinian neighborhoods, pervasive poverty, frequent roadblocks, and bulldozed homes that we witnessed—and reminded us that the price of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict is paid by millions of wounded individuals. It was not unfitting to leave Jerusalem shortly thereafter and visit Bethlehem, a city whose name is interpreted as “House of Bread” or as “House of War”. It is in Bethlehem that the birth of Christ, who is the Bread of Life, is situated within the context of the Slaughter of the Innocents. Here again we felt the tension of being torn in two between the bucolic nativity scenes we imagine and the real Bethlehem, which bears the scars of war. We journeyed to the Church of the Nativity, the traditional site of Christ's birth. The church is administered jointly by Greek Orthodox, Roman Catholic, Armenian Apostolic and Syriac orthodox church authorities, who at this place of all places do not always succeed at promoting peace or goodwill or the spirit of ecumenism. Later on, we enjoyed a historical and personal reflection on Bethlehem offered by Lloyd Brown, intern at Holy Trinity Pro-Cathedral in Brussels. He transparently discussed the challenges of reading differing birth narratives in the four Gospels and scholarship which calls into question the historicity of Bethlehem as the birthplace of Jesus. Lloyd spoke with conviction regarding his insistence upon one theme which bridges history and theology: Jesus was a child refugee born in a stable into the mess of the world. With our temptation to think of the incarnation as an abstract doctrinal formula, it is incumbent upon us to resituation the birth of Jesus in concrete, messy reality. The memories we have are of Bethlehem as a chaotic, challenging, real place: a nerve-centre of theologically rich pictures of Jesus. Our day ended with a visit to the Kol HaNeshama Synagogue in the Reformed tradition of Judaism. We were warmly welcomed by Rabbi Dr Michael Marmur. He introduced us to the Shabbat service, explaining the movement of the liturgy, the psalms, and the symbolism of welcoming in the sabbath. After a beautiful service, we split into small groups and joined with families in the congregation for Shabbat meals. This opportunity for meaningful dialogue, learning, and hospitality made a lasting impression on all. What we had witnessed in the morning regarding the plight of the Palestinians was set into a framework alongside the first-hand accounts of Israelis living in Jerusalem. At the close of our first full day in the Holy Land, we were reminded of the words of Michael Ramsey, “To be a theologian is to be exposed to the vision of heaven and the tragedy of mankind.” This dichotomy is precisely what our Palestinian tour, pilgrimage to Bethlehem, and visit to the Kol HaNeshama Synagogue brought to the fore. Annie Bolger - Leuven DAY 2 Saturday 25 November The Wilderness, Masada, the Dead Sea, Qumran, En Gedi, Jericho Like most days on our trip we had an early start leaving St Peter’s at 6am starting our long journey to the Dead Sea, to start off our day by visiting Masada. The latter is a fortress built by Herod the Great and the place of the culmination of the Jewish Revolt of 66AD for the final stand against the Rome’s after the fall of Jerusalem. We were blessed to have nice weather. Luckily we did not have to take the very steep windy path up the mountain but instead a ski lift giving us an amazing view of the surrounding landscape and the Dead Sea itself. After I gave an enthusiastic account of the history of the site, we explored the fortress. It affords magnificent views on all sides, and most particularly of the Dead Sea.Next we went to natural park called En Gedi which is an oasis in the surrounding desert and where David hide as a fugitive from King Saul it is a place of outstanding beauty and where given opportunities to interact with the wildlife along with splashing and paddling in the lovely water while walking around the park which came from amazing waterfalls across the valley. Seeing places like En Gedi give a new take to Bible stories as it help you imagine what conditions where like when David himself was here and how it made such a good hiding places with lots of caves around the valley. After this we headed off to the Dead Sea for a swim for those who wanted too, seeing if all the school text books where right about easy it was to float in the Dead Sea. However if swimming was not your thing there was always the lowest bar in the world to visit. It was great place to relax and float around, safe to say the text books were right and made for some great photos with the ease of being able to float. Along with the uneasy fact of having active land mines over the side of the fence when your at the beach very different to a seaside trip in the uk but made up many of unique experience you can only find in Israel! Next we had lunch and visited Qumran which is the site was where the Dead Sea scrolls where found, getting to see more changes in the landscape and rugged rocky landscape the scrolls where placed in. We also found out about the Jewish community who lived there who produced and stored the scroll and their distinct way of life, getting to see the remains ritual baths they used for example. Then we travelled onto the town of Jericho, where we go to view the Monastery which commemorates Jesus’s Temptations. We valued hear a lecture from Clare with her amazing amount of knowledge about the city and the role it played in the Old and New Testament and its historical excavation by archaeologists, before heading of to a lovely Palestinian dinner we made a stop too see the stop at the tree which Zacchaeus was meant to have climbed so he could have seen Jesus. Finally we ate a big meal together all sat together in Jericho where we got to try lots of dishes including and the best hummus you've ever have in your life with pitta to start of with. This was followed by a main course cooked meats and of course lots of Falafel (which were available at every meal). They finished off with a lovely cake and coffee to end the night, before enjoying a Christmas Hymn sing along on the way back Jerusalem to get some well earned rest. Guy Crumpler – Ostend – Bruges The Judaean Wilderness Early morning at Masada The view of the Dead Sea from Masada The ritual bathe in the Dead Sea The oasis of En Gedi, where David hid as a fugitive from King Saul The view of Cave 4 from Qumran Dr Clare Amos giving a road-side lecture overlooking ancient Jericho, the most ancient and lowest city on earth.
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