was Lorimer’s aunt. Other examples of his work are ‘The Rowans’ This walk leaflet has been prepared by Local History (No 21), ‘Westfield’ (No 40) and ‘Binley’ (No 42). Society. COLINTON Turn around and walk back along Pentland Avenue as far as No 11. To find out more about the Society or about how to become a

Just past this house, turn right down the path known as ‘The Shoot’, member, please contact us either via the contacts page of our LOCAL HISTORY with its high stone walls bordering the gardens on each side. It website, www.colintonhistory.org.uk, or by email to brings you out at the bridge over the Water of . Below the [email protected] or ask for up-to-date contact Bridge was the site of Colinton Station and the old railway line built details at Colinton Public Library. SOCIETY in the 1870s. Trains carried passengers from 1874 until 1943 and freight until 1967. In 1973 the route of the railway became part of the Water of Leith Walkway. Do not cross the bridge, but take the road on the left at the foot of The Shoot, then turn immediately right down a short flight of steps Walks around the parish of Colinton to a car park. Around this area, various millwheels have been scattered to remind people of bygone days. Turn right and walk under the road bridge on to the Water of Leith Walkway. Walk 1: Literature, Art, Architecture – and more After about 100 yards, a gap in the wall will take you left into Spylaw MacKenzie Cottage - The Long Steps – Parish Park. The Park was bought by the City of Council over one hundred years ago, in 1911. Take a look at the recently erected Church – Spylaw Bank Road – The Shoot - Old park notice board explaining the history here. Colinton Station – Spylaw Park – Spylaw Street – Beside the play park was situated for many years the home of Scott’s Bridge Road Porage Oats. The Company has since moved to Cupar in Fife and the old mill building has been replaced by flats. The walk is approximately 1.2 miles long, on a mixture of In front of you, slightly to your left, is Spylaw surfaced pavements, quiet roadway and good but unsurfaced House, formerly the home of James Gillespie, footpaths. The route includes steps and a steep uphill section. snuff miller. Walk past Spylaw House and over the bridge with black iron railings, then under one of the arches of the road bridge and up to Spylaw Street. Turn right up Spylaw Street. At the junction with Bridge Road is a cottage at No. 24 Spylaw Street. This was once the local Spylaw House police station. Immediately opposite the junction, on a sloping path up to No 25 Bridge Road, are wrought-iron railings designed in the 1920s by Phoebe Anna Traquair, whose house in Spylaw Bank Road we passed earlier. The railings were commissioned by Walter Biggar Blaikie, the Edinburgh printer, engineer and historian. The A section of the railings on railings are Category A listed and Bridge Road were restored in 2007. Our walk ends here, close to bus stops in both directions. Statue of Page 4

START AT THE TRAFFIC LIGHTS AT THE JUNCTION OF BRIDGE ROAD as a boy. He was the grandson of Dr Lewis Balfour, who was the Leave the churchyard and AND WOODHALL ROAD, ON THE NORTH SIDE OF BRIDGE ROAD minister here from 1823 until his death in 1860. Young Robert climb up Spylaw Bank Road. played on a swing on the yew tree next to the manse and wrote The cottages on the left You will see a small cottage set behind iron railings, and at a slightly some of his poetry beside the Water of Leith nearby. The café in the retain their rural charm. No 1, lower level than the road. This is MacKenzie Cottage, named after modern church rooms has been named ‘The Swing’ in his memory. opposite the Church the writer and lawyer, Henry MacKenzie, who used it as his summer entrance, is a listed building, retreat. His novel, The Man of Feeling, was the most popular of the During the body-snatching days of the 1820s bodies were dug up a while the cottage next door 1770s, and MacKenzie was an influential supporter of short time after burial and sold to the was thatched for many years. and . His social group included many familiar names of Medical School. To combat this, an iron coffin known as a ‘mortsafe’ This hill was known as Kirk the including Hume, Smith and Cockburn, could be hired out. The body was secured in the coffin under the Brae and Hailes Brae. Spylaw Bank Road and he was a founder member of the Royal Society of Edinburgh. mortsafe until it decayed beyond any practical use by the anatomist. The cottage was restored in 1997 and is now used as an office. There were originally six of these structures, but only this one On the bend is Mid-hill, the former station master’s house. Elaborate remains. Each weighed nearly one ton, making it almost impossible gates with ‘V’ guard the entrance. This denotes No. 5. There was a Walk down Bridge Road to the gap between the Co-op building and to shift without a block and tackle. During that macabre period the series of steps from the garden down to the station platform. It Colinton Inn, where the Long Steps will take you down to Spylaw Session House doubled up as a watch house. became known as Jacob’s Ladder. On the roadway you may see Street and what was once a ford at the Water of Leith. At the top of stones set at the edge. This was to allow the dray horses to rest the the Long Steps stands a wrought-iron archway marking the start of The present Church dates from 1908 but a Parish Church has been in carts as they carried their loads uphill. A Walk with Robert Louis Stevenson. Information boards have been Colinton since 1636. There is some doubt as to where the original placed at various points between here and Dell Road. site was, but then it was At 13 Spylaw Bank Road lived one of the leading artists of the Arts known as Hailes or Halis. and Crafts movement in Scotland, Phoebe Anna Traquair. In 1920, The tiny cottage on the Long Prince Ethelred, a son of she was made an honorary member of the Royal Scottish Academy, Steps was said to have been a Queen Margaret and King the first woman to be recognised in this way. butcher’s shop in the 19th Malcolm, passed this way on Century. At the foot of the Continue up Spylaw Bank Road and in about two hundred yards on his many sojourns to and steps, look across the road to the right, you pass the Sir William Fraser Homes. These were from Melrose. The see a stone building which was designed in 1898-99 by storyboard inside the church known as ‘Allendale’. In days A. Balfour Paul in a porch explains in greater gone by there was a sweet Allendale Scottish 17th-century Colinton Mortsafe detail its history. shop and tearoom there. style, with a raised Look up to see the sundial (photo, right) terrace and balustrade To the left up Spylaw Street, notice the distinctive pantiled cottages on the church wall. It is inscribed Sir round the courtyard and which were acquired in 1799 by the Merchant Company of James Foulles 1630. The Foulis family a central fountain. The Edinburgh under James Gillespie’s Will. The interiors have been were local land-owners and responsible homes were founded by modernised, but the exteriors retain their for the upkeep of the church buildings and a former assistant Keeper rustic features. They were intended as parish school. The family had special of Scottish Records. They almshouses for needy families. James Sir William Fraser Homes seats allocated inside the church. became tenanted by Gillespie was a wealthy snuff mill owner who retired professional women who lived rent free. They became part lived in Spylaw House nearby. He and his There are notable stones in the graveyard. of the Merchant Company Trust in the 1960s and were modernised brother, John, both pictured left, ran a The oldest, dated 1593, is that of Agnes inside. tobacco shop in the City High Street around Heriot, spouse of J Foulis of Colinton. 1759. James is buried in an impressive crypt at Colinton Parish Another curious one shows ‘Peter Dickson Two notable houses stand on the opposite side of the road: Church across the bridge a short distance from here. killed by a fall from his horse’. Dickson was a groom at Colinton ‘Glenlyon’ (No 45) and ‘Almora’ (No 49), designed by the renowned House. Here also lies John Tod, a shepherd at Swanston and a friend Scottish architect, Sir Robert Lorimer, in the early 1900s. Cross the 19th-century single of Robert Louis Stevenson. Covenanters encamped in the graveyard arched bridge; the Parish Church Turn left into Pentland Road and admire ‘Stonehouse’ (No 1) on the in 1666, the night before the battle of Rullion Green. is facing you. This bridge replaced corner. It was the last house that Lorimer designed in Colinton. an older one which in its turn, by It must have been a noisy time for the ministers living in the manse. Then take the second right into Pentland Avenue, where several the 17th century, had replaced the Kirkland Mill, erected in 1585 to produce lint, a by-product of flax, Lorimer-designed houses were built. ‘Colinton Cottage’ (No 23) was original ford. was situated where the newer cemetery now stands, while Hole Mill the first Lorimer house to be built in Colinton and was the Miss was close by. The cemetery walls were built of old stone from the Guthrie Wright Memorial Home for Queen’s Nurses. Miss Wright On the right is a statue, erected in Colinton Old Church former mill lade. 2013, of Robert Louis Stevenson Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 Page 3