Spring 2019 Volume 24 No

Spring 2019 Volume 24 No. 1

A Magazine about Acadia National Park and Surrounding Communities Purchase Your Park Pass! Whether driving, walking, bicycling, or riding the Island Explorer through the park, we all must pay the entrance fee. Eighty percent of all fees paid in Acadia stay in Acadia, to be used for projects that directly benefit park visitors and resources.

Open Seasonally: Bar Harbor Village Green Blackwoods, Seawall, and Schoodic Woods campgrounds Hulls Cove Visitor Center Jordan Pond and Cadillac Mountain Gift Shops Sand Beach Entrance Station Annual park passes are also available at certain Thompson Island Information Center Acadia-area town offices and local businesses; contact the park at 207-288-3338 to find Open Year-Round: additional pass sales locations. Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce/Acadia Information Center Corner of Main and Cottage streets, Bar Harbor 288-5103

Park passes are now available online. Visit www.yourpassnow.com President’s Message

Shutdown Effects, Like Long Winter, May Linger

n recent weeks, a number of friends, of the interpretive rangers, maintenance neighbors, and Friends of Acadia workers, lifeguards, and resource Icommunity members have been management crews, given a federal hiring thanking me for the role that FOA played process that was complex and protracted during the prolonged government shutdown before the shutdown, and is now further back in January. bottle-necked because five valuable weeks It’s gratifying that this organization was were lost at the start of the year. able to provide an outlet for those wanting All of this will likely mean fewer ranger- to help during a very stressful time for our led field trips to Acadia for Maine’s school- colleagues at the National Park Service. But in children this year and fewer camp-sites all honesty, there were many days during the available at Blackwoods come spring, as shutdown when I felt totally inadequate as a hamstrung crews scramble to get utilities partner. Indeed, we continued to be “Friends,” up and running. It also means a smaller but it was just not the same without regular exotic plant management team that has interaction with the nearly 100 employees FOA served as such an effective deterrent to the that make up a big part of Acadia. Monts that had been degraded by a former impact of invasive species on Acadia’s natural All of us at FOA felt a sense of relief when septic system serving the visitor center there; communities. Also worrisome is the delay Acadia’s furloughed staff returned to their as well as the analysis and planning needed to the federal approval and local on-the- jobs, and again when a second shut-down to consider expanded Island Explorer bus ground implementation of the long-awaited was narrowly averted in February. service in the future to meet growing demand Transportation Plan intended to bring new Some of the ways that FOA pitched in and potential implementation of the park’s approaches to managing Acadia’s growing during the shutdown allowed people to proposed new Transportation Plan. visitation and vehicular congestion. remain connected to their park and turn Not only was this recent shutdown the As the days of spring in Maine slowly concerns into action. We posted updates longest in U.S. history, it was also unlike others become longer and brighter, and the sound frequently on our website and social media in that administration officials in Washington of Acadia’s brooks and streams reach our pages and shared stewardship messages, required national parks to remain open to ears as a thrilling roar long before we can see encouraging visitors to follow “Leave No the public – even while they remained largely them, it becomes slightly easier to consider Trace” principles in order to lighten their unstaffed. As numerous stories in the national the government shutdown a thing of the past. impact on the park and avoid any added press highlighted, this was not a successful Friends of Acadia will certainly be doing all burden for the handful of rangers tasked with management strategy, as several parks in the that we can to reduce the lingering effects running the park during the shutdown. south and west suffered overuse and resource with the benefit of your support for our We networked with banks, restaurants, damage during the shutdown. park. I look forward with optimism to all that and business owners, encouraging creative Here at Acadia, we were fortunate that the summer brings. ways to support park families going weeks shutdown occurred at a quiet time of year Perhaps just as important, may we all retain without paychecks. We communicated and visitors who did come were extremely a heightened appreciation for the commitment regularly with members of Congress, sharing respectful and well-prepared. of each Acadia employee to the mission of examples of how Acadia was being affected Acadia will not, however, be able to avoid the Park Service: to preserve and protect this by the shutdown and advocating for an end the ongoing effects of losing one-tenth of place unimpaired for future generations – a to the impasse. We organized and supported a year of productivity in vital aspects of its responsibility that goes well beyond simply volunteers willing to groom Acadia’s carriage operations. That work includes planning, being “open” for public visitation. roads for skiing and snowshoeing. We served maintenance, research, monitoring, and – Thanks to each of you who help to make as a conduit for generous donors wanting to of great importance to the coming summer Acadia more resilient to the challenges of this provide extra support for Acadia in a time season – hiring of the seasonal park staff past January and those that lie ahead. of need. And, importantly, FOA continued (nearly 150 of them) that help maintain the key projects in the park through private park and the visitor experience for the 3.5 contracted personnel. Despite the shutdown, million who come annually to experience they were able to work on efforts such as the Acadia. The calendar simply does not have restoration of a forested wetland at Sieur de enough days left to recruit and bring on all —David MacDonald

Friends of Acadia Journal Spring 2019 1 7 BOARD OF DIRECTORS Anne Green, Chair Bill Eacho, Treasurer Hank Schmelzer, Vice Chair Cookie Horner, Secretary Mark Amstutz Jan Karst Spring 2019 Emily Beck Jack Kelley Volume 24 No. 1 Gail Clark Story Litchfield Hannah Sistare Clark Paul Mayewski Sam Coplon Meredith Moriarty Andrew Davis Lili Pew Dave Edson Edward L. Samek John Fassak Nonie Sullivan Elsie Flemings Christiaan van Heerden C. Boyden Gray Bill Zoellick Margaret Jeffery

HONORARY TRUSTEES Noni Ames Linda Lewis Robert and Anne Bass Liz Martinez Curtis Blake Phoebe Milliken Sylvia Blake George J. and 5 16 30 Frederic A. Bourke Jr. Heather Mitchell Tristram and Ruth Colket Joseph Murphy Gail Cook Nancy Nimick Shelby and Gale Davis Jack Perkins f e at u r e s Dianna Emory Nancy Pyne Nathaniel Fenton Ann R. Roberts 5 Quilt From ‘Friends’ Honors Service Frances Fitzgerald Jeannine Ross By Earl Brechlin Sheldon Goldthwait Howard Solomon Neva Goodwin Erwin Soule 7 Monuments Memorialize Acadia’s Founders Paul and Eileen Growald Diana Davis Spencer Paul Haertel Julia Merck Utsch The tragic death of Waldron Bates Lee Judd Dick Wolf By Don Lenahan Debby Lash 10 Park on Roll to Curtail Rock ‘Art’ Acadia’s stolen rocks are sometimes returned HONORARY TRUSTEES W. Kent Olsen Charles R. Tyson Jr. By Maude Kusserow 16 Modern Hikers Follow Clara Barnes Martin’s Footsteps FRIENDS OF ACADIA STAFF Mary Boëchat David R. MacDonald The first travel guide for the island was for those in search of natural scenery and wonder Development Officer President & CEO By Lynn Fantom Earl D. Brechlin Dana Petersen Communications Director Stewardship Volunteer 30 Ranger Reports Similar to Today Coordinator Challenges faced by Rangers here more than 55 years ago Sharon Broom Development Officer Carol Potter By Earl Brechlin Administrative Assistant Stephanie Clement Conservation Director Mike Staggs p e r s p e c t i v e s Office Manager Lisa Horsch Clark Director of Development Paige Steele 1 President’s Message Shutdown Effects, Like Long Winter, May Linger & Donor Relations Conservation Projects Manager 9 Superintendent’s View When you’re down… Sarah Curts Accounting & Administrative Julia Walker Thomas 13 Special Person Lydia Kimball Associate Communications Associate 20 Donor Profile Catherine and John Salvato Jason Irwin Lisa Williams 32 Chair’s Letter Sharing some Park Perspective Vice President for Finance Communications Designer & Administration & Web Associate Shawn Keeley JoAnne Wood d e pa rt m e n t s Senior Development Officer Development Assistant 4 Where in Acadia? 14 New Donors

21 Advocacy Corner PRST STD 24 Updates U.S. POSTAGE PAID AUBURN, MAINE PERMIT #82

2 Spring 2019 Friends of Acadia Journal n Blagde m To

Friends of Acadia 43 Cottage Street PO Box 45 Bar Harbor, Maine 04609 207-288-3340 800-625-0321

Quilt From ‘Friends’ Honors Service By Earl Brechlin

t is often considered something of an Bell, who volunteers along with her husband God,’” explains Al. “It was so touching to get understatement to say that one benefit of Don, mentioned how a family member such a thoughtful gift from our friends.” Ivolunteering regularly in Acadia National had taken many of the t-shirts she and Don Marilyn agrees. “I was just blown away. It Park is making good friends for life. For proof, collected from running marathons and had was absolutely wonderful,” she says. people need look no further than a special them made into a memory quilt. The couple’s spiritual connection with Friends of Acadia memory quilt and pillows “At that dinner we asked ourselves, ‘Why Acadia remains strong, after more than 35 made especially for long-time volunteer crew don’t we do that for Al and Marilyn?’” years of helping care for the park. “In fact, we leaders Al and Marilyn Wiberley. Using funds chipped in by fellow volunteers, began working on trails with George Feltus The Wiberleys, who spend summers in Bass Hays contacted Blue Hill quilt maker Kathy before there even was a Friends of Acadia,” Harbor, recently moved into a retirement village Burgess. Starting with an Acadia Centennial Al recalls. in Maryville, TN, after decades of service both shirt in the center, she created a quilt with Both Al and Marilyn emphasized the in Acadia and in the Great Smoky Mountains nine panels. Among the specific events it depth of their connections to, and love for National Park. At a pot-luck dinner among commemorates are Take Pride in Acadia Day, the people they worked with in Maine over Friends of Acadia’s volunteer crew leaders at the annual Earth Day Roadside Cleanup, and the years. And, as Hays notes, that affection Julia Schloss’s house last fall, discussion turned FOA’s Imprecision Drill Team. A note sewn runs both ways. to ways to honor the Wiberleys’ service. “I into the quilt dedicates it to the Wiberleys, “I got a call after Al and Marilyn received and had recently talked with Al who told me they “From your friends and fellow volunteers with opened their gift,” Hays recalls. “They were would not be able to continue to volunteer,” love and appreciation.” overwhelmed. As many people predicted, Al fellow volunteer crew leader Mike Hays of In acknowledgement of the Wiberleys’ more was pretty emotional and so was I.” Tremont recalls. Wiberley presented Hays with than two decades of service in the Smokies, The Wiberleys hope to take a trip to a large bag of FOA volunteer t-shirts and hats volunteer shirts from there were crafted into a Acadia and see all their friends during a visit the couple had collected over the years and pair of pillows. this August. � asked they be share among their colleagues. “I The entire package was mailed from Maine told him how sad that made me,” Hays adds. in time for arrival before Christmas. EARL BRECHLIN is Friends of Acadia’s According to Hays, fellow crew leader Jean “When we opened it, we both said ‘Oh my Communications Director FOA/EARL BRECHLIN Al and Marilyn Wiberley, above, of Bass Harbor, Maine and Maryville, TN have been among the most stalwart Friends of Acadia Volunteer Crew Leaders. When the couple decided to retire from trail work last fall, they gave a collection of volunteer shirts gathered over nearly 30 years working in Acadia, to their friends. The friends decided to have those items made into a quilt, at left. Several items from the couple’s volunteering in Great Smoky Mountains National Park were fashioned into pillows. FOA/JULIA WALKER THOMAS FOA/JULIA WALKER Friends of Acadia Journal Spring 2019 5 Celebrating Y E A R

S 10 helping make possible the following projects: 2009 Inside Program 2010 Eagle Lake Carriage Road 2011 2012 Lower Hadlock 30th Annual Benefit Acadia Digital Media Pond Land Team, formerly Acadia Youth Pays Homage to Past Technology Team By Shawn Keeley 2013 Acadia Teacher his past winter Friends of Acadia has $13.5 million for Acadia. While the majority Fellows, been busy planning the 30th Annual of the funds raised are unrestricted and formerly Teacher Ranger Teacher TBenefit, set for Saturday, Aug. 10 at support a wide variety of FOA programs Program the Asticou Inn in Northeast Harbor. in the park, for the past 10 years the Live We are incredibly grateful that Lydia Auction has culminated in a Paddle Raise Kimball has taken the leadership role of for specific projects. 2015 2014 Historic Vista Cadillac Benefit Chair this year. Lydia helped organize Thanks to all FOA donors and attendees Mountain the first Benefit in 1990 and has played a who have raised their paddles in years Carriage Roads crucial role on the committee ever since. She past to make these initiatives possible. We is supported by a Host Committee (Please look forward to sharing details of the 2019 2016 see list below) that brings a wonderful mix Paddle Raise project in the summer issue of of Benefit planning experience as well as the “FOA Journal” as well as in the Benefit of the new ideas to the process. invitation and catalog later this year. For Seaside Path As we plan a fun and memorable evening more information about the 30th Annual Seal Harbor celebrating conservation and philanthropy Benefit or if you would like to contribute an Beach to in Acadia, we are also looking back with item to the silent or live auctions, contact Jordan Pond affection at some of initiatives Benefit Shawn Keeley at [email protected] House donors have helped make possible. In its or 207-288-3340. � 2017 first 29 years, the Benefit has raised over of Historic 2018 Structures of Bass Harbor Acadia including Head Benefit Chair, Lydia Kimball the Jordan Pond Lighthouse Benefit Host Committee and Brown Gail Clark Laura Pierce Mountain Gatehouses, Malinda Crain Maureen Stewart Gilley House Kate Davis Lynne Wheat and Keeper’s Donna Eacho Anna Woodward House on Baker Betsy Mills Island Christie’s Auctioneer, Lydia Fenet

6 Spring 2019 Friends of Acadia Journal Monuments Memorialize Acadia’s Founders The Tragic Death of Waldron Bates By Don Lenahan

Editor’s Note: Over more than a decade Committee chairman and president. In Friends of Acadia member and volunteer Don 1896 he established himself as a mapmaker Lenahan compiled detailed information about with the publication of the “Map of Mount the plaques and memorial tablets scattered Desert Island” and the “Path Map of the throughout Acadia National Park. Below is an Eastern Part of Mount Desert Island” with excerpt about Waldron Bates from Lenahan’s co-cartographers Edward Rand and Herbert online compendium, which can be accessed at Jacques. Bates was also one of the original acadiamemorials.blogspot.com members of the Hancock County Trustees of Public Reservations, the organization n the south side of Gorham founded in 1901 for the purpose of Mountain, at the intersection of “acquiring, owning and holding lands and Othe Gorham Mountain Trail and other property in Hancock County for free the Cadillac Cliffs Path, is a bronze plaque public use.” That land later became Acadia attached to a granite wall. It is a memorial to National Park. Waldron Bates. Shielded by an overhanging Bates planned and engineered trails to ledge, the plaque was designed by New York geologically interesting rock formations and This bronze plaque honoring “Waldron Bates, sculptor and Bar Harbor summer resident Pathfinder” can be found along the trail on exhilarating sites along rock ledges, wrote William Ordway Partridge. After being Gorham Mountain. instructions about how to construct safe and exhibited in Bar Harbor, it was placed there durable trails, instituted a signage protocol and received his law degree from Boston in September 1910. to direct hikers along trail routes and University in 1882. He never married. Bates was born on November 24, 1856 in designed a simple cairn to mark the paths Bates first visited Mount Desert Island Boston, Massachusetts. He was the nephew and provide directional guidance to hikers. about 1880 and joined the Bar Harbor of Charles T. How, an early land donor Termed “Bates Cairns” today, they were Village Improvement Association in 1892, to Acadia and developer of Bar Harbor. later becoming the organization’s Path continued on page 15 Bates graduated from Harvard in 1879 FOA/EARL BRECHLIN Waldron Bates Waldron Bates pioneered the use of this distinctive style of cairn to mark hiking trails in what is today Acadia National Park.

Friends of Acadia Journal Spring 2019 7 Wetland Restoration Funded by Wild Acadia By Earl Brechlin

espite its overall untouched forested wetland. The work is being funded appearance, many parts of “When we try to pick out by a grant from Friends of Acadia as part D Acadia National Park have been anything by itself, we find it of the organization’s Wild Acadia initiative. altered by human activity over the past Wild Acadia includes a series of programs 100 years or so. Cellar holes of abandoned hitched to everything else in and projects designed to restore ecological estates that burned in the Great Fire of 1947 the Universe.” —John Muir integrity and help Acadia’s natural resources remain in the hills surrounding Bar Harbor. become more resilient to climate change Foundations of the radio towers erected by the comfort stations and facilities there to Bar and other environmental stressors. Enrico Fabbri near Otter Cliffs can still be Harbor’s municipal sewer system, scientists, According to Wild Acadia Project stumbled upon in the woods. park managers and landscapers are looking Coordinator Brian Henkel, the approach to Perhaps as much as any other, the area to set things right and return at least a small such projects has changed since the septic surrounding Sieur de Monts Spring, which part of that area to a more natural condition. system was originally installed in the 1980s. was included in the first parcels of land Work began last fall, and is slated to be “It’s not the right thing to have in that kind of contributed to the federal government in completed this spring, to restore the site ecological system,” he explains. 1916, has experienced major disruption. of the former mounded septic system to a It was built in response to the increased But now, as part of the project to connect visitation to that area which, in addition to the spring, includes a nature center, the Trailside Abbe Museum, and the Wild Gardens of Acadia. It is also a major point of departure for hikers. “That area is visited by bus, after bus, after bus, “ Henkel says. Park resource managers were tipped off to a problem when algae blooms were detected in the spring pools. Those were caused by increased levels of nitrogen and phosphorus in the ground water. The source of those chemicals turned out not to be natural. Tests showed another “marker” substance in the aquifer — caffeine. It does not occur in nature and could only come from leachate from the raised bed septic field. The solution to abating the pollution was to install equipment to pump all septic waste to Bar Harbor’s treatment plan, nearly a mile away. That $900,000 project was done in 2015. FOA’s Wild Acadia initiative next provided $104,000 for the wetland restoration. Work began on removing several feet of soil and gravel from the old septic field last fall. “All of the mound was removed and taken down to a level of original natural material as near as we can tell,” Henkel explains. Later this spring, crews for Atlantic Landscaping Construction, using plans developed COURTESY OF BRIAN HENKEL COURTESY The site of a former septic system leach field, shown in gray in the center of the photo, is being restored to a continued on page 12 natural ecosystem thanks for Friends of Acadia’s Wild Acadia initiative. 8 Spring 2019 Friends of Acadia Journal Superintendent’s View

When you’re down, you realize pretty quickly who your friends are

he 35-day government shutdown this While one might assume the park year proved that for Acadia National isn’t bustling in January, the truth is our TPark and our employees. During the year-round workforce remains extremely shutdown, Friends of Acadia played an busy. Our supervisors are hiring seasonal essential role for the park and the community. employees—a process that takes three to FOA remained in touch on a daily basis four months, assuming everything goes with the park’s staff who continued to work well, due to interviews, reference checks, during the shutdown. With the park being background investigations, and required unable to communicate with visitors, or processing time. Winter is also the time even update our webpage or Facebook page, when we are writing detailed scopes of FOA served as the communications channel work to allow for contracting major jobs in for Acadia—reminding visitors to Leave the park, that must then be completed, and No Trace and providing updates on road contracts awarded prior to the end of our closures. Many members of FOA played an fiscal year on September 30. important role by reaching out to FOA for This year a few of the items on that list ways they could help. include replacing the roof on the Islesford Thankfully, we were able to sign an Historical Museum, the Frazer Point dock at agreement with FOA that allowed for CONTI FOA /AYTT/ASHLEY Schoodic, and the electric power lines and volunteers to groom the carriage roads for for an organization that is so valued by its poles serving the entire Schoodic peninsula. cross-country skiing. Unfortunately, we only community. This is also part of a short window of the year had about three days with adequate snow to Maine has a great tradition of helping when we can do work in environmentally actually groom them! But the work of the neighbors when they need it and we sensitive areas, such as wetlands, as they grooming crew was very much appreciated certainly felt it. During a difficult time, these remain frozen and less susceptible to damage. by the community. I saw plenty of other expressions of generosity helped our folks Since I was furloughed, Acadia’s Chief skiers out on the carriage roads with a smile and the work they do feel valued. Ranger, Stuart West, assumed the role of on their face, enjoying the first real snow of During the shutdown, we had to remain “incident commander” during the shutdown. the season, even if short lived. mindful of the ethics rules that apply to He coordinated all aspects of the park’s The towns on Mount Desert Island and all federal employees. This was sort of operations. A little more than a dozen the neighboring communities came together ironic, given the circumstance of having park staff continued working during the in a show of support for the entire federal missed a month of pay, and yet our shutdown, including our law enforcement family: namely, the park and U.S. Coast employees’ concern about ethics showed rangers, dispatchers, and a handful of Guard employees affected by the shutdown. how seriously we take the public trust that maintenance staff. We owe these folks who Numerous businesses, organizations, and goes with our positions. continued to work, despite not getting paid private individuals showed their support As I write this, only 10 days after on time, a huge thank you. There is no for park employees through small acts of coming back to work, we are continuing doubt in my mind they made sure that a bad generosity. Restaurants offered free lunches, to dig out from the shutdown. The 35- situation didn’t become worse. food pantries opened their doors to day period represents 10 percent of the We are happy to be back at work again, employees in need, a local service club and year. It is impossible not to feel this loss and we sure hope that we don’t have to banks made low interest loans available, and in productivity. For example, we could not go through this again! If we do, I will take private individuals donated gift cards that collect data from our air quality monitoring comfort knowing that our “Friends” and employees could use at the grocery store or station—the longest data gap in its 40-year communities will be with us again. gas station. history. Also, we could not do our regular The outpouring of support from the measurements of ice conditions at Jordan community was heartwarming for our Pond that help us understand changes in employees, and I certainly felt extraordinarily water quality, or vital monitoring work for grateful to live and work in a place and peregrine falcons and bats. —Kevin Schneider

Friends of Acadia Journal Spring 2019 9 Park on Roll to Curtail Rock ‘Art’ By Maude Kusserow

ock and roll has a whole different of the island the hiking trails were marked This particular, some say more-discreet meaning in Acadia National Park. with a unique style of cairn pioneered style of cairn, believed to be inspired by RIllegal rock “art” installations and by Waldron Bates.” Bates was an early trail markers used by the Inuit peoples vandalism to cairns that guide hikers summer resident who helped design and in the far north, was adopted in Bar along trails have plagued Acadia for lay out trails for the Village Improvement Harbor before the park was created. decades. The prevalence and scale with Association. A large plaque honoring his Eventually crews switched to building the which they are being done in recent “Pathfinder” skills can be found along the conical piles of rocks seen in the White years however, holds serious long-term Gorham Mountain Trail. (See related story Mountains and elsewhere. “My guess is ramifications for the environment in on monuments and memorials in Acadia.) that the park staff abandoned the Bates addition to inconveniencing visitors or cairn to be consistent with the other putting them at risk of be lost or injured. “It’s been an ongoing battle cairns found around the Northeast,” says Charles Jacobi, who last year retired Jacobi. “Maybe they were getting a little after more than 30 years with the National over the past twenty-five years too abstract with what they considered to Park Service, has dedicated much of his to use the Park’s educational be cairn.” career trying to fathom why people As a result, when Jacobi arrived in 1984, tamper with the cairns or feel a need to capabilities to teach hikers to Acadia’s cairns were “a bit of a mish-mash.” leave behind their own stacks of rocks. leave the rocks right where The lack of a uniform style and consistency Multiple installations are increasingly they are. Leave them until the contributed to visitors often building being seen on cobblestone beaches and their own cairns, leading to confusion for in stream beds as well as along trails. next glacier comes along and hikers who may have lacked advanced What one visitor may think is creative art, decides to pick them up and route-finding skills. If enough people take another sees as graffiti and an eyesore. a wrong turn, and then backtrack, the “It’s a messy business that has been move them somewhere else. ground wears down to where it appears to around since I came to the park,” says —Charlie Jacobi be the correct route. Jacobi. “About a dozen years into my time Illegal cairns also can result in people here, the park did a historic resource Bates cairns consist of two base stones wandering off-trail, trampling fragile study of the trail system,” he continues. spaced a foot or two apart, bridged by a flat alpine vegetation and other plants. The “We learned that years ago on the east side lintel, with an elongated “pointer” rock on top. damage can take years to heal. FOA/JULIA WALKER THOMAS FOA/JULIA WALKER Visitors expressing remorse for having illegally taken rocks from beaches in Acadia sometimes mail them back to the FOA park, or Friends of Acadia, and ask that they be returned. Several illegal stacks of rocks were photographed along the South Ridge Trail on Cadillac A fun video of a rock release can be found online at Mountain in Acadia National Park. wwwfriendsofacadia.org/rock-release/. 10 Spring 2019 Friends of Acadia Journal In addition to visitors to Acadia National Park damaging cairns on the Acadia’s hiking trails, or leaving behind stacked stone “graffiti,” there have also been other problems involving rocks including outright theft. Stolen Rocks Every summer rangers issue several tickets to visitors for Removal of Natural Materials, which can range from vegetation and tide pool life, to Are Sometimes rocks from roadsides or cobblestone beaches. While some instances involve someone taking a smooth, attractive Returned beach stone for a paperweight, others are orders of magnitude larger. Occasionally, rangers discover an entire trunk full of rocks destined for a stone wall or herb garden back home. With 3.5 million visitors per year, it only takes a small percentage of violators to cause a major headache. While not a major problem, yet, visitors decorate rocks with paint, and then leave them in the park a practice that can lead to a littering charge. In some popular tourist destinations, legends of a curse on those who take natural materials appear to help. Hawaii, for instance, shares the story of Pelee’s Curse which holds that taking vegetation, rocks, etc., will bestow bad luck on the thief. At Haleakala National Park in Hawaii visitors return about 100 pieces of lava rock each month. Often, they are accompanied by notes expressing guilt or noting an extended stretch of bad luck. Acadia gets several packages of rocks each year as well. And, several times in the past year, Acadia National Park visitors have mailed boxes of rocks to the Friends of Acadia office with notes asking they be returned to nature. In one case, they had been collected over two decades, one at a time. Under Leave No Trace principles, visitors should leave all natural and cultural materials behind. A video of Friends of Acadia staff returning rocks taken from the park can be viewed at online at www.friendsofacadia.org/rock-release/. COURTESY OF ANP COURTESY

After the trail study park managers cairns, vandalize them, and sometimes those signs up on the approaches to decided to try restoring Bates cairns on kick them over entirely. There is also the most of the mountaintops. I think they’re a number of trails. “We considered it a issue of illegal duplicate cairns leading relatively unobtrusive. How effective are pilot project at first, and found there hikers astray. “In the wintertime if you they? It’s hard to know. But I know that were a number of reasons to keep doing follow a cairn the wrong way, it can be if they weren’t there, there would be a lot it,” says Jacobi. very dangerous,” says Jacobi. more maintenance of cairns that would When building a Bates cairn, fewer rocks “It’s been an ongoing battle over the past need to be done.” are used, which means less maintenance 25 years to use the park’s educational The signs can be seen at tree line on most for park staff and volunteers and less capabilities to teach hikers to leave the trails and in some cases near summits. damage to fragile mountain soils that can rocks right where they are. Leave them On trails such as The Beehive and at easily erode or degrade if disturbed when until the next glacier comes along and Great Head, where most of the damage is rocks are removed. One challenge is that decides to pick them up and move them experienced, signs have helped. “When rather than just piles of any-shaped rocks, somewhere else. It’s very tempting to we were putting the signs up, we also Bates cairns require specific sizes. want to move the rocks around and build built new cairns and documented how With the help of Friends of Acadia things, I understand that. I think this is they held up. We realized pretty quickly Ridge-Runners and volunteers, over the the hardest of the seven ‘Leave No Trace’ that the cairns without accompanying course of 15 years, the park transitioned principles for people to understand signs were ten times more likely to be all of its cairns to the Bates design. because it requires a high degree of destroyed,” says Jacobi. Although this provides consistency, restraint.” Friends of Acadia’s Summit Stewards it continues to be a challenge to keep Approximately five years ago, Jacobi got help out rebuilding cairns and removing visitors from destroying them. People approval to put out 35 signs to educate illegal ones for eight weeks each summer. frequently add to and subtract from the visitors about cairn etiquette. “We put continued on page 12

Friends of Acadia Journal Spring 2019 11 CAPITOL HILL VISIT… Friends of Acadia representatives spent time on Capitol Hill in Washington D.C., earlier this month calling at the offices of members of Maine’s Congressional Delegation, including Senator Angus King, second from right. Earlier that week, President Donald Trump signed the John D. Dingell, Jr. Conservation and Management and Recreation Act, which included the affirmation of the addition of the Schoodic Woods Campground and Trails, along with hundreds of acres of land on Schoodic Peninsula, to Acadia National Park, language allowing the traditional harvesting of clams and worms on the park’s intertidal flats, and the permanent reauthorization of the Acadia Advisory Commission. Pictured are, from left, Ed Samek, member of the FOA advocacy committee, FOA President David MacDonald, FOA

COURTESY OF ACADIA NATIONAL PARK OF ACADIA NATIONAL COURTESY Board Chair Anne Green, Senator King, and FOA Advocacy Pictured above are, from left, Ed Samek, member of the FOA advocacy Committee Chair Hannah Clark. committee, FOA President David MacDonald, FOA Board Chair Anne Green, Senator King, and FOA Advocacy Committee Chair Hannah Clark.

Rocks, continued from page 11 Wetland Restoration, continued from page 8 Last summer they repaired 840 cairns by wetland scientist Roger St.Amand of Nearby Cromwell Harbor Brook, during their hikes and dismantled Atlantic Resources Company, will bring in downstream from the Great Meadow, 997 visitor-built cairns and rock-art new soil mixed to mimic that of the forested appears to have been deliberately rerouted installations. They also take time to speak wetlands nearby. Acadia maintenance crews in the past as well. with visitors about resources issues and are also assisting. As researchers continue to monitor and Leave No Trace principles. The one-quarter-acre site will then study the Great Meadow/Cromwell Harbor A special volunteer program called be graded and seeded with indigenous Brook area, future projects will examine Waldron’s Warriors, involving mostly species. Shrubs and trees will be planted. ways to potentially return the ecosystem to area residents, swings into action each Planners considered the changing climate its “desired condition.” spring and fall to help rebuild and of Acadia in selecting which species to One of the next steps may include a new maintain the distinctive cairns. “I’d like plant. While plants expected to make culvert or bridge under the Park Loop Road to be more optimistic about it,” says inroads under a warming climate were to ease the flooding experienced at Sieur de Jacobi, “It would be nice to know that not included in anticipation of changing Monts during the winter of 2018. Future you can build a cairn and have it be conditions, neither were varieties work, of course, would involve the entire there for 50 years, but it’s life cycle is scientists expect will have a harder time watershed so that any alterations do not much shorter than that. surviving. Tree species selected include create larger problems downstream. Toward “We’re holding our own at this point by red maple, gray birch, yellow birch, oak, that end, Henkel, park managers, and officials keeping them up year to year and maybe white pine, and balsam fir. from the town of Bar Harbor and Kebo Valley that’s the best we’re going to do.” As a follow-up, exotic plant removal Golf Course are staying in touch. Jacobi says people are divided on crews from the park will make periodic “We are looking forward to having continued whether or not the cairn regulations checks to make sure non-native species conversations with the greater community,” restrict their ability to enjoy and be creative don’t gain a toehold in the area. Henkel says. � in nature, and those who understand According to Henkel, research conducted that by destroying a cairn, they are as part of the project showed that over the vandalizing a part of Acadia’s natural and years Sieur de Monts was privately owned, cultural environment. “Ultimately, it’s an and numerous alterations had been made. aesthetic issue, a resource issue, and a An intermittent stream in the area had been safety issue on the mountaintops. Leave rechanneled, and ditches dug to drain the what you find and leave the park just nearby Great Meadow marsh which, 100 the way you found it. If visitors follow years ago, was viewed as worthless swamp

those principles, everything will run a land. “The CCC [Civilian Conservation FOA/EARL BRECHLIN lot more smoothly.” � Corps] also did a lot of work in that area,” An excavating crew from Atlantic Landscaping Construction works to transform a former septic field Henkel adds. at Sieur de Monts Springs into a forested wetland. 12 Spring 2019 Friends of Acadia Journal Special Person

Lydia Kimball By Shawn Keeley

eflecting on all of the volunteers who Lydia. “I value the organization’s perseverance. have made the Annual Friends of Over the years, no matter the political climate RAcadia Benefit a success, few figure in Washington or in the State of Maine, as prominently in its history, evolution, and no matter adverse circumstances such as current operations as Lydia Kimball. So, it is a prolonged Park closure, and no matter no surprise that Lydia has stepped up to chair changes taking place within the organization the 30th Annual Benefit. itself, the staff of FOA has been able to stick to In 2016, when I mentioned to Lydia the original mission of preserve and protect,” that the Benefit’s Paddle Raise would be she explains. dedicated to raising money to restore the “I also value the new friends I’ve made historic Seaside Path connecting Seal Harbor through volunteering, and the enhancement of to Jordan Pond, her eyes lit up. She told old friendships. Volunteering with friends adds me that some of her fondest childhood a new, different dimension to relationships, memories were of walking that trail. CONTRIBUTED PHOTO which is something I truly appreciate.” Honoring Lydia in this issue of the Journal Lydia Kimball of Northeast Harbor is the Chair of this When thinking of recruiting those who year’s 30th Anniversary Friends of Acadia Benefit. turned out to be the perfect opportunity to She has been involved with the event since 1989. might like to volunteer for FOA, Lydia pick her brain about her history with Acadia encourages people to get involved where and her work with FOA. father was one of the founders of the MDI they have passion—whether it’s Take Pride in Lydia’s mother grew up spending summers Biological Laboratory, so he had his own Acadia Day, the Wild Gardens of Acadia, the on Mount Desert Island and brought Lydia sense of commitment to the park. Earth Day Roadside Cleanup or the Annual here when she was only seven months old. In the early years, Lydia didn’t have as much Benefit—but not worry about immediately Those early years growing up were spent time to volunteer in the planning process but making a mark. She served 30 years as a Benefit exploring Seal Harbor Beach, walking the always played a key role in the live auction. Committee member before circumstances Seaside Path, and enjoying tea and popovers Particularly memorable was 1994. Lydia stood allowed her to take on the responsibilities at the old Jordan Pond House. They nurtured on the stage of the Neighborhood House as Chair. The only requirement, she likes to a life-long bond with Acadia. serving as a spotter as John Hays conducted remind people, is “a love of the Park.” As she grew up, hiking the mountains of the auction. She was pregnant with her twin FOA Board Chair Anne Green said it has Acadia became one of her favorite ways to sons Andrew and William at the time, and the been an honor and a pleasure to work with enjoy the park. These days she loves spending audience thought she was about to go into Lydia over the years. “Lydia is a cherished as much time as possible on the water labor. “I knew it seemed like the sale went friend with admirable enthusiasm for all exploring the islands in and around MDI. You fast—little did I know people were paying things FOA and Acadia,” Green says. “She may also find her walking the carriage roads anything to get me off the stage,” she recalls. has seen the Benefit successfully grow from or exploring the roads by carriage. When the Benefit shifted to the Asticou Inn its inception to chairing this year’s event. The “Mr. Rockefeller originally designed the her involvement increased as her husband best part was, I did not even ask her to chair roads so the views would be seen from the Dan was on the Asticou’s board. She was the the 30th, she volunteered!” height of a carriage, and I love seeing the perfect liaison between the committee and Lydia’s support of MDI organizations vistas in the way he originally intended,” the Inn. Since then, not only has Lydia been extends beyond FOA. She serves as President she shares. a key Benefit volunteer, but she has joined of the Harbor Club in Seal Harbor and is on Lydia’s first involvement with FOA came in FOA’s Development Committee and is always the board of the Wendell Gilley Museum in 1989 when the organization was merely three ready to help in any way. Southwest Harbor. Thank you, Lydia, for years old. A friend of Lydia’s who chaired the “The Park is arguably the heart of the all you do for Friends of Acadia and this first Annual Benefit asked for her help finding island, and anything that can be done to help community. � someone to conduct the auction. Lydia was preserve the legacy is so important to the early in her career at Christie’s at the time and entire MDI community,” Lydia says. SHAWN KEELEY is Senior Development managed to recruit a professional auctioneer Friends of Acadia’s role in helping protect Officer for Friends of Acadia for the event. Fortunately, that auctioneer’s that “heart” has always been important to

Friends of Acadia Journal Spring 2019 13 New Donors

We are pleased to welcome our Andrea Cronkite and Tom Guglielmo Janet Lohmann and Madalyn Parkhurst newest friends. Philip Kinney Tinsley Iselin Hadley Michael Griffin Amy Patterson Katy and Geroge Cupples Susan and Arnie Halaterman Marion Lynaugh Jed Patterson October 1, 2018 – Edith Cushing and Sarah Hall M&T Bank Kerry Peiser and January 31, 2019 Rita Johnson Curtiss Hanson MacDermid Graphics Duncan Green Lisa Cutler Patricia Hasson Solutions People’s United Wealth Robert Abbey Eric D’Ambrosio Erika Hayden Vernon MacDonald Management Merril Adelman Josselyn Richards Daniels Janet Hazley Denise and David Magario Michelle Perino Tammi and Daniel Aiello Susan DeCarlo Donna Hebert Isaac Mains Pershing Cresca Albright Laura Dedominicis and Elaine Hendrickson Make My Donation Peter Collier Real Estate Mr. and Mrs. Frederick Scott Whitehouse Liddy Hepner Christine Malesky Jaclyn Pilette Alexander Melissa DeHaven Pat and David Hickox Berrell Mallery Martha and Kathleen Alexander Erin and Navio Delgado Christopher Higgins Mary Beth and Kevin Kenneth Pinckney Katie Alwart Nancy Dickson Phoebe Holden Malone PNC Wealth Management Linda and Ronald Anderson Lisa Dimondstein Kathleen and John Homon Jill Marsee Marianne Potter AON Foundation Patricia and Michael Dizazzo Christopher Horton Nancy and Paul Matlack Galia Rabinkin Lindsay Bacher Candace and Jeff Dobro Nicole Hostettler Juliana May Asad Rahman Jessica Baker Kris Donohue Judy Houle Ben Mayes Anne Rahn Rita and Merl Baker Carolyn and David Doud Robert and Daphne Howard Anne and Robert McAlaine May Belle Rauch Martha Baldwin James Doyle Jennifer Hunt Eileen and Albert McAvoy Cindy and Frank Rehr Bank of America Charitable Michele and Richard Dreiss Mary and Henry Inman Alana McDonough Luke Rehr Gift Fund Brady Drew Daniel Irish Joan McGuinness Noreen and David Reiver Steven Barkan Tom Driscoll Jack Skehan and Associates Marilyn McIlvaine Brad Rendle Thomas Barnes Sean Ducker Paula Jaep Mary and Andrew McInnes Lisa Reniff and Alexandra Baron Molly Dutton Helen Janowiak and Family Bette McLelland Mark Fairchild Nicholas Baron Clayton Eames Emerson Jeffery P.P. and H.B. McMullin Josselyn Richards-Daniels Benjamin Basel Kelly and R.P. Eddy Jewish Federation of Richard Meekins Jacob Richardson Donna Beals Alan Edelstein Delaware Glenda and Joseph Mertes Susan Richardson Kraemer and Bruce Becker Bill Elliott Jewish Federation of Greater Stephanie Metzger Meaghan Riley Janice Bell Barbara Ellis Rochester Karen Ann Miller Sarah Ritz-Swain Elizabeth Bennett Kay Eltringham Meegan Joly Katherine Miller Marianne Roach Ruth Anne Bond and Eric Elwin Donna and Steve Julian Devon Brock Montgomery Edwin Robb Maureen Mulligan Sarah English and Sandy and Richard Juliani Sarah Moran Mary and Henry Ropp Susan and Gerhard Botha Alfons van Heerwaarden JV Schiro-Zavela William Morin Eileen Rose Sandra and Michael Eric Erdtmann Foundation Kelly Morman Emily Rose Bowdren Elizabeth Evans Gweneth Kaebnick Hilary Morris Rosenthal Eyewear and Acadia Bowen Bess Fagerstrom Christopher Kaiser John Morris Sunwear Susan Breen John Fauntleroy Anna and Paul Karns Melissa Morris and Katie Ruger and Rob Katherine and Howard Brill Jamie and Rob Fell Christopher Keefe Miguel Perez Zondervan Martha Brill Kelly Fennell Allison Keiter Theresa Mudgett Sarah and Charlie Ruger Janet and David Bromley Lisa Fiero Kristen Kidder Melissa Murphy Michael Sandahl Louise and Paul Brown Lynn Flegert Yehyun Kim Terry Murray Cheryl and Hugh Sargent Ann and Tom Bruner Ann Flynn Adelaide and Ruffin King Mark Nadel Sue and Chuck Saul Jason Bubier FM Global Foundation Terri and Stephen Kinney Karen and Ned Nalle Morton Saunders Laurie Cale Matching Gifts Program Christina Baker Kline National Financial Services Anne and Thomas Nancy and Robert Campbell Emma Forthofer Marion and Charles Kline Nature Backs Schapman Shelley Campbell Peter Foulke Carol and Ripley Sara and Edward Naureckas Andrea Schenck and Linda and Eric Cantor Diane Fox Knickerbocker Judith Neilson Jeremie Fontana Cherie and Ray Cardaronella Chris Frothingham Ron Korstanje Miriam Nelson Jean Schiro-Zavela and Rebecca Carter Nancy Frothingham Peg and Neil Kostick Will Newton Vance Zavela Louise and Donald Casey Thomas Geary Barbara Kourajian and Elizabeth Nicholas Christine Serino Leslie Ceriana Megan Gilbert Bud Fisher Rob Nichols Eli Sevigny Wendy Chan Martha Gillpatrick Medina Krevans Lisa Nicol Julianne and Chazen Engineering, Land Shelley Gilman Annlinn Kruger Erin Nienstedt Dewayne Sharp Surveying, Landscape Lia Goetzke Anna Kuhn Karl Norberg Nancy and Rusty Sharp Architecture Sharon and Jerome Goldberg Colleen Laird Michael Noseworthy Lucy Shaw Jan Chubb Hilary Goldblatt Adriana and Nanette Notar Priscilla Shempp Clara and Mike Ciadella Sarah Goldfine-Ward Raymond Laraja Maureen and Brian Oates Valerie Shepard and Drake Clark Judith and E. Russell Patricia Lawrence Carol and Charles Ogelsby Abe Stimson John Clark Gombos Becca and Greg Lee Karen and Jay Ohlsten Judith and Daniel Sherry Theone Clark Gary Goodrich Yeun-Bin Lee Neil O’Keefe Maggie Shi Karyl Claroni Mrs. George Goodrich William Lehmann Irene Hardwicke Olivieri Todd Shivers Sarah Collins Reesa Greenberg and Naaki Lehto Jane Orenstein Alison Silberman Blessilda Concepcion James McDonald Barbara Lerch Matthew O’Rourke Rebecca Sipes Isabella Connelly Will Greene Devon Lerner Orr Pitts Family Charitable Heather Slemmer Terrence Connelly Todd Gregorian Paul Letourneau Lead Annuity Trust Jeanmarie and Ashley Conti Holly and Randall Griffin Paula and Ed Letson Joan Palmer Richard Slingsby Nancy and Robert Cooper Deborah and Krista Levitan Robert Palmer Zoe Smiarowski Ruth Corbett Carmen Grimaldi Mark Lewandowski Carol Paradis and Alice Smith Betsey Corkran Alexandra Grodzicki Renee and Mark Lewis Richard Eskelund Heather Smolenski Mike Corley Donna Groschadl Stephanie Ley Tom Parker Cynthia Snyder 14 Spring 2019 Friends of Acadia Journal Julie and Michael Solot Elizabeth and United Way of Greater Jane Wells Gregory Sousa Peter Strawbridge Waterbury Michael Whamond Michael Spath Gaynor Strickler Gretchen Upson Mary Ellen Whiteman NONPROFIT RESEARCH Christopher Spaulding Kathy and William Susan and David Valle Nancy Wiechmann Elizabeth and Suarez Jennifer VanDongen Judy Williams and FOR MAINE AND THE WORLD. Frederick Specht Dawn Suchy Brian Vinchur John Schroeder Elizabeth and Krista Sullivan James Wade Lisa Williams Richard Sperry Sara Sundberg Hazel Wagner Marie Wilson Lia Urban Spillane Surry Garden Club Margaret and Dawn Winsor-Hines Sebastian Stacey Jim Swain Bob Wallis Helen and Karen and Gwen and Suzi and Darrell Wittwer Gary Stansberry Wayne Taylor Theodore Warholak Tara Wohlgemuth Edric Starbird Mark Thernes Chris Watkins Julie Wolf Remy and Robert Stiles Richard Thielen Deirdre Weaver Leslie and Keith Woods Charles Stone Casey Thomas Stephanie Weaver Susan Wright Julie Stone John Thompson Webber Oil Foundation Alannah Yamamoto Kimberly and Elizabeth Torchia Carol Wehmann Zay and Tom Ziegler Douglas Storey Mark Tourscher Ari Weinkle Julie and Ricahrd Ziino Mark Stratman Jeff Tucker Deborah Weise Barry Stratton Paul Underwood Christopher Weld

Monuments, continued from page 7 At JAX, easy to build and required few stones, thus lessening soil damage and erosion. Dr. Silas Weir Mitchell said of him, “To him, more than any other, is owing the great system of some CURES one hundred and fifty miles of paths, which are so complete as to make difficult at present any additions of value.” Prominent among are in our them are the Cadillac Cliffs, Canon Brook, Giant Slide and Gorham Mountain trails. On Tuesday, February 9, 1909, while en route from Boston to Aiken, South Carolina, DNA. on the Southern Railroad, Bates disembarked briefly at the railway station in Monroe, Virginia. Trying to reenter the train, as it pulled away from the station, he slipped and fell under the wheels and was killed. News of the tragic death prompted the Bar Harbor community to establish additional

memorials. FOA The Bar Harbor Village Improvement Pathfinder Waldron Bates was among a group of early Association changed the name of the Chasm hiking enthusiasts that published a map of the trails on Path on the north side of Sargent Mountain Mount Desert Island’s eastern side. to the Waldron Bates Memorial Path. Upon slab of granite overhanging the Chasm Brook its completion in 1910, the Waldron Bates Trail on Sargent Mountain and renaming it the Memorial Path became the first of Acadia Bates Memorial Trail.” Despite the efforts of National Park’s famed memorial paths. The individuals to locate and research this plaque, path is no longer maintained by the Park and no corroborating evidence of its existence has VISIT US AT is mostly untraceable. ever surfaced. The Kebo Valley Club, of which Bates had Given Bates’s many contributions to the WWW.JAX.ORG/MAINE been a director and a designer of its golf magnificent trails system that we enjoy so course, installed a bronze plaque on a granite much today, perhaps the reader will pause for boulder at the 18th green. a silent moment while hiking on the Gorham The existence of another Bates memorial Mountain Trail or the Cadillac Cliffs Path to plaque was reported in an intriguing article remember Waldron Bates, Pathmaker. � written by a former curator of the Bar Harbor Historical Society in 1981. The author wrote, A complete set of Don Lenahan’s blog posts on the “The Bar Harbor Association also paid tribute Memorials of Acadia is available online as an to Bates by putting another tablet on a large Apple E-Book.

Friends of Acadia Journal Spring 2019 15 Modern Hikers Follow Clara Barnes Martin’s Footsteps By Lynn Fantom FOA FILE

fter a comfortable night at the top zeal in a series of articles, then a book island, published in six editions between of Cadillac Mountain, in what is titled “Mount Desert on the Coast of 1867 and 1885. Atoday Acadia National Park, the Maine.” It was the first travel guide for the It offers a view of the time between the young woman, likely in her late twenties, mid-century visits of Hudson River School was up at 4 a.m. to see the sunrise. But artists such as Thomas Cole and Frederic instead of the golden hues of rays of the Edwin Church, which built awareness of rising sun, she gazed out into a wall of Mount Desert Island, and the formation grey. Rain began to fall. of the village improvement associations, Nervous about a big storm, she and which took on the responsibilities of a companion decided to leave right building, maintaining, and mapping trails. away and walk back to Bar Harbor. The As Catherine Schmitt says in “Historic expedition wasn’t a total bust, though, Acadia National Park,” the island at this because the shower stopped and the time “was still for adventurers primarily scolding chirps of red squirrels and sweet in search of natural scenery and wonder.” bird songs “went to one’s very heart.” Visitors “tramped” along dry stream The summit Clara Barnes Martin climbed beds, “scrambled” through “impenetrable” in 1866 was, of course, then called Green forests, climbed “rough paths” to mountain Mountain, not Cadillac. And the rustic tops, and went “rocking” along the hotel where she slept, along with the ability coastline. As Samuel Adams Drake said in to spend the night on the summit, are his own guidebook almost a decade after things of the past. Martin first visited, navigation became What hasn’t changed, though, is the “practicable” with “a well-adjusted pocket enthusiasm about “the only neighborhood of compass and stout staff.” FOA FILE mountain and sea on all our Atlantic coast.” An early tourist guide, published before Lafayette Martin, who contributed to the literary Portland-bred Martin encapsulated her National Park was renamed Acadia in 1929. columns of the New York Post and “The 16 Spring 2019 Friends of Acadia Journal FOA FILE Before it was protected land, the top of Cadillac Mountain sported a hotel, left, called the Green Mountain House, and, at right, a cog railway that carried passengers from Eagle Lake to the summit.

“When we try to pick out anything by itself, we find it hitched to everything else in the Universe.” —John Muir

Nation,” boldly explored the island and “Bugs, weather, trail conditions, what to First and foremost, though, hers was encouraged her readers to follow suit. eat—that really didn’t seem to bother them, “a very practical guide,” says Tim Garrity, She eschewed taking the carriage road the says AMC archivist, Becky Fullerton. “What Executive Director of the Mount Desert road up Cadillac; after all, it was only four did was: Will my skirt get torn?” After a Island Historical Society. The guide offered miles and “good walkers call it less.” walk, women needed to be presentable to advice on excursions from different villages To descend Cadillac either through The enter a hotel or railroad car. and must-see spots on a short trip. “The Gorge, the ravine that separates it from So, they helped each other out. In 1889, island was moving to a tourist economy,” Dorr, or along the south ridge, she noted Mrs. Lucia Pychowska offered tips in the notes Garrity. with spunk “…there are fine opportunities AMC’s journal: boots slightly longer than Visitors depended on residents for for being lost on either walk,” adding that the ordinary shoe, woolen stockings, gray more than housing and food. They were “no one need be lost at Mount Desert flannel trousers secured below the knee, and transported in horse-drawn buckboards. anywhere for more than an hour or two.” two skirts with a strong clasp pin to fasten continued on page 18 For many walks, “one must have not up the outer one (“washwoman fashion”) only stout boots but well-trained feet.” “in case of a climb of unusual steepness or a Martin’s “first” was all the more rapid transit through hobble bush.” impressive because she was scrambling Although Martin was an adventurer, it and rocking in the era of corsets and was likely her subtlety that inspired readers bustles. To go out without gloves was to pick up her guidebook “at home in wintry seen as vulgar. Yet, women had an days,” which was her goal. She reminded open invitation to the outdoors. The them of the warm tint to the rocks, the lone Appalachian Mountain Club, founded in trumpet of the loon, the pebbly beach on Boston in 1876, extended membership to the north side of Bar Island. women at its second meeting. Women’s walking boots featuring commonsense heels and lace-ups with metal eyelets (patented in the 1890s). Friends of Acadia Journal Spring 2019 17 Timmons’ Hiking Sticks part of Acadia’s Hiking Legacy By Earl Brechlin

Today, lightweight aluminum woodworker. The sticks were given as A man who sought true balance, trekking poles are popular balance gifts to top FOA donors and volunteers. both on and off the trail, Timmons aid for hikers. But many still believe Using dead and down wood he also helped out in the shoulder seasons that nothing surpasses a good old- found in the vicinity of Ship’s Harbor, crafting trail and summit signs. fashioned hiking stick. Timmons would remove any bark, sand In 2015 Mel and his wife Rita, who For many years hiking sticks crafted the stick smooth, and then engrave divided their time between homes by hand by Friends of Acadia volunteer words and images with woodburning in Parkville, MD, and Bass Harbor, crew leader and avid hiker Russell “Mel” tools. A leather lace fastened through a received FOA’s Marianne Edwards Timmons were considered the epitome grommeted hole in the stick completed Distinguished Service Award for their of hiking accoutrement on the trails of each individual work of folk art. devotion to the organization and Acadia National Park. Timmons, who also Owners marvel at the how little the Acadia. Rita passed away in 2017. Mel helped develop a special rock carrying sturdy hiking sticks weigh and how passed away this past January. � cradle for park trail crews, was an avid easily they fit the hand.

Footsteps, continued from page 17 Sometimes rowboats carried them across Company, presented a verse lampoon Mountain, Schooner Head, the Ovens, lakes or ponds to access a mountain more of summer life at Bar Harbor, in which Duck Brook (all on Martin’s itinerary). But easily. Says Martin, they enjoyed “gypsy teas.” fishermen had become monied landlords the protagonist, Reginald, more interested “Mt. Desert in 1873, Portrayed and clamoring boarders passed chowder in flirting than scrambles, “found foreign in Crayon and Quill,” an illustrated round. Two bachelors, fleeing Boston’s boots were bad for rocky walking.” monography by J.M. Osgood and heat, explored Newport (Champlain) Even more than a century ago, people were worried about what additional publicity and the insults of more visitors on the environment meant for Mount Desert Island. Martin herself began to worry about tourism. In 1874, she inveighed against the “selfishness” of visitors who robbed anemones, moss, and ferns. Still, the allure of MDI and the lands, lakes, and shores that are now Acadia National Park has hardly changed in the nearly 150 years since Martin wrote her guide. After all, as she said back then, “every step is interesting.” And still is today. �

Lynn Fantom, freelance writer, and Chair Emerita of the advertising agency ID Media in Manhattan, is a resident of Somesville. DIGITALCOMMONS@UMAINE Tourists rocking from “Mt. Desert in 1873, Portrayed in Crayon and Quill.” 18 Spring 2019 Friends of Acadia Journal IN NOMINEE We gratefully acknowledge gifts received in honor of: Acadia National Park Raymond Lee Acadia to Katahdin Gregory Leet Virtual Racers Sue and Ed Leiter Bruce and Regina Catherine Linda Alexander Lennox* Ben Althaus James Linnane We are proud to support David Avery Augusta Matlack Friends of Acadia Fresh Maine lobster and seafood on the pier, Julie Banzhaf-Stone Dan McKay or shipped to your home year round. and Steve Stone Trinity Acadia Boaters welcome! Tie up and refuel while you eat. Dr. Leonard B. McKinnon 182 Clark Point Rd, Southwest Harbor Berkowitz Hannah Rosengren Open 11:00am - 9:00pm | bealslobster.com Aaron Birnbaum Moran and Diego Cevasco Kyle Moran Susan Choma John L. Morse* Stephanie Clement Ed Muennich LIVE LOCAL. Patti and John and Henry Clifford Carolyn Murphy BANK LOCAL. Pete Colman Penny Newman Since 1902. Ethan Dadush Constance Ogorchock George B. Dorr* Cynthia and Proudly serving Mount Desert William Dumont Jack Paradise Lynn Fantom and Blake Parker Island since 1883 Fred Stern Barbara Record* bhsla.com Luncheon ~ Afternoon Tea ~ Dinner 103 Main Street, Bar Harbor Peter & Virgina Carol Remen 207-288-3685 Reservations 207-276-3344 Fleisher Betsy Roberts Member FDIC www.asticou.com David Flinchbaugh Bob and Joan Agnes Donaghy Jane Sanderson Garland* Randy Shepard Richie Gibson Howard Solomon Jim and Anne Green Jane R. Spath Carol & Ted Haider Edric and Dan and Maryanne Starbird* Patti Harbison Diana Strange Christopher Heilakka Marshall Sundberg Heidi Hershberger* and Amandine Mount Desert Island’s Matt Heyer Cagnoicle Premier Outfitter Susan Howard* Jane Ingraham Hannah Hudson Thomas 48 Cottage Street, Bar Harbor (207) 288-9605 Andrea Iannuzzi- Mel Timmons* Drennan* Todd Tompkins and www.acadiafun.com David Irish Kelly McCool Charlie Jacobi Carmen Walker Jed and Oscar Allan Warren Richard T. Jones Stephanie Wasco Keepers of Baker Acadia Louise Wedge Island Nancy Witt Charles Kelsh Ray Kidd October 1, 2018 – Anne Kozak January 31, 2019 Peter Lamothe *Deceased Phyllis Lawrence and Jim Slavas www.barharbor.bank • 888-853-7100

Compassion • Community Improvement • Integrity Respect • Teamwork 10 Wayman Lane • Bar Harbor, ME 207-288-5818 207.288.5081 • www.mdihospital.org www.sothebysrealty.com THOMAS BLAGDEN Friends of Acadia Journal Spring 2019 19 Donor Profile

Catherine and John Salvato It Started With The Honeymoon By Lisa Horsch Clark

an you imagine driving to Bar Harbor for your honeymoon Cwithout reservations? In the height of fall foliage season no less? That is exactly what Catherine and John Salvato did in October of 1986 after a friend at work recommended picturesque Mount Desert Island and beautiful Acadia National Park as the perfect destination. They loved it so much they have been back every year since—33 years in all! Some years it is just the two of them but other times they bring their children and grandchildren. They come to relax. They hike. They explore and, in the earlier years, they climbed mountains and I mean all the mountains. When John turned 70, he celebrated with a climb up the ladder rungs of the Precipice. When he turned 75, he climbed COURTESY OF SALVATO FAMILY OF SALVATO COURTESY the equally-steep Beehive. They are Alex and Landon Salvato enjoy climbing the flatlanders now but still love exploring the mountains of Acadia National Park with their park and local communities. grandparents, Kate and John Salvato. Over the years, the couple has gotten FOA offices and spoke the development staff to know the island and park well. On an about including FOA in their will. In 2015, early trip, they celebrated the end of their they joined the Trailblazers, the monthly day in the park at a popular restaurant. giving society at FOA. They have supported While they waited for their table, they our operational needs, made tribute gifts, mentioned to the host that they really responded to challenges, supported special enjoyed a new hiking guide they picked Custom Homes projects in the park, and much more. up but had one complaint. I recently asked Kate what continues to Renovations The author, they said, had made a motivate their giving to Friends of Acadia. mistake in one of the trail descriptions Cabinetry and Millwork She said they do it because they want to in “A Walk in the Park.” Little did they preserve Acadia for their children and know the person waiting to seat them was grandchildren, and even those people who the author, Tom St. Germain. Indeed, the haven’t visited the park yet—a true gift for Salvatos had found an error and in the future generations. next edition, Tom made the correction and And that tradition of love for Acadia will thanked his “Delaware Friends.” endure. They have definitely passed it on to When you talk with the Salvatos, you the next generation in their family. When can feel their love of this place. It is that they asked their grandson what he wanted love that drives them to support Friends for his high school graduation present this of Acadia and our mission to preserve and year, he said, “A trip to Acadia!” � protect the park. They first joined Friends of Acadia in LISA HORSCH CLARK is Director of nelsongoodwin.com 2001 and made many annual membership Development for Friends of Acadia. gifts to FOA. In 2002, they stopped by the 20 Spring 2019 Friends of Acadia Journal Advocacy Corner

Progress Being Made in Washington D.C. By Stephanie Clement

riends of Acadia (FOA) is a non- Senate leadership combined many public the next generation of park advocates. partisan organization working to lands bills that had passed through Friends of Acadia was thrilled to see the Fadvance the interests of Acadia committee in the 115th Congress, but never Natural Resources Management Act pass National Park and its visitors before federal, made it to the floor, into S. 47, the Natural Congress with such extensive support. state, and local decision-makers. Resources Management Act. Among the We are also pleased that there appears to As part of our recent strategic planning many provisions of the combined legislation be momentum toward passing legislation process, FOA placed increased emphasis on were the Acadia National Park Boundary to direct funding to the backlog of deferred advocacy and communications as important Clarification Act, the Every Kid Outdoors maintenance projects in national parks means for inviting our members and the Act, and permanent reauthorization of and other public lands. Despite receiving public to learn about issues in Acadia and the Land and Water Conservation Fund extensive bipartisan support in the 115th get involved. Over the next few months, we (LWCF). The bill was brought directly to Congress, the Restore our Parks and Public will work to step up research and materials the floor of the Senate and passed with Lands Act was not enacted. This bill (H.R. documenting how issues such as lagging an overwhelming majority (92-8). It then 1225) has been reintroduced by Rep. Rob federal appropriations, climate change, and proceeded to the House where it passed by Bishop (R-UT-1) and more than 100 co- air pollution affect Acadia. We’ll also look a similarly large margin (363-62). sponsors, including Rep. Chellie Pingree. to increase our outreach to members who A similar Senate version may be brought live in Congressional districts or the states Friends of Acadia is grateful directly to the Senate floor. Senator Angus of important decision-makers in hopes King was one of the lead players in shaping of encouraging support for Acadia and all for the team that makes our and introducing this important legislation. national parks. advocacy initiatives work. National coalitions in which Friends of The political landscape in Washington Acadia participates are also working to changed after the mid-term elections last Passage of the Natural Resources ensure that the infrastructure needs of November with Democrats winning control Management Act was important to Acadia national parks are included in any broader of the House of Representatives but losing for several reasons. The section pertaining initiatives to rehabilitate or reconstruct the seats in the Senate. Senator Angus King directly to Acadia was valuable because it nation’s roads, bridges, and ports. advanced to become Ranking Member affirmed the addition of the Schoodic Woods Friends of Acadia is grateful for the of the Senate Subcommittee on National campground, land, and trails to the park. It team that makes our advocacy initiatives Parks, which has jurisdiction over policy also established that traditional harvesting work. We value the Acadia National Park and legislation that affect national parks— of clams and worms is allowed within staff who provide detailed statistics and topics such as fees, boundary adjustments, Acadia’s intertidal zone, and it permanently thorough answers to our questions about or commercial use. reauthorized the Acadia National Park park budgets, park facilities, contracting Congresswoman Chellie Pingree remains Advisory Commission, the advisory group processes, and more. We greatly appreciate well-positioned on the House Interior comprised of citizen representatives from the responsiveness of the staff of the Appropriations Subcommittee, and towns bordering the park. Reauthorization Maine Congressional delegation who Senator Susan Collins remains Chair of of LWCF was also critically important to make themselves available by phone or the Senate Transportation Appropriations Acadia because it is a valuable funding e-mail on topics such as the effects of the Subcommittee, which will be important source used by the National Park Service partial government shut-down and the as Acadia prepares to implement its to acquire the remaining privately held deferred maintenance backlog. And most transportation plan. lands inside Acadia’s boundaries as they importantly, we thank you, our members, Representative Jared Golden’s initial are offered by willing sellers. And the Every who give of their time and resources to committee assignments may not be Kid Outdoors portion of S. 47 was valuable ensure that national parks are prominent at � strategically important to Acadia, but his because it made available free entrance federal, state, and local discussions. office has already been in touch with FOA passes to national parks and public lands about national park issues of interest. to all 4th grade students and their families. STEPHANIE CLEMENT is Friends of In late February, Congress passed Acadia is a natural laboratory for creating Acadia’s conservation director. important legislation affecting Acadia. Friends of Acadia Journal Spring 2019 21

Generous Businesses Share Proceeds

ommunity-minded businesses frequently donate a portion of sales Cproceeds to Friends of Acadia from a variety of products and services. Shoppers appreciate knowing that their purchase will benefit a worthy cause, and as a result, the business may see an increase in sales. In many cases the business can provide greater support to Friends of Acadia from the proceeds program than it would otherwise be able to give. Earlier this year, Friends of Acadia received a substantial gift from the Acadia Corporation, representing its “2% for the Park” program. Since spring 2016, the company has contributed to Friends of Acadia 2 percent of all gross sales at one of its newest stores, Acadia Park Company on OF VBT COURTESY A visitor on a Vermont Biking Tours excursion enjoys a section of carriage road near Eagle Lake in Acadia Main Street in Bar Harbor. National Park.

existing members. In addition, for each new Acadia, we felt it was an excellent way to subscriber who uses the Friends of Acadia help preserve the natural beauty of Acadia as coupon code, the company will donate 50 well as maintain its quality trails and carriage percent of the proceeds to Friends of Acadia. roads—paths that our guests both love and rely on.” “Acadia Park Company was conceived to Other examples of businesses that have highlight all the natural elements of Acadia donated proceeds from sales are Atlantic that make it such a special place,” said Acadia Brewing, Fiore Artisan Olive Oils & Vinegars, Corporation CEO David Woodside. “When Cadillac Mountain Sports, Custom Ink, we were no longer operating in the park, we Look for further information on the FOA the Gallery at Somes Sound, Camden artist sought to design a shop in downtown Bar website, in the E-News, and on Facebook, Donald Rainville, and the online company Harbor with the space and character that or please feel free to contact chimani@ Picaboo through Greeting Cards for a Cause. would stimulate visitors to visit the park in an friendsofacadia.org for a coupon code. Photographer Bob Thayer has donated environmentally responsible fashion. In another variation, VBT (Vermont Biking proceeds from the sales of his annual “In keeping with this approach, giving 2 Tours) and Country Walkers, which brings calendar and has given copies of his Acadia percent of our gross sales to Friends of Acadia an average of 370 guests to Acadia each year, wall calendar for Friends of Acadia to use in was a natural extension of this effort to give has contributed a generous gift based on whatever way they are most helpful. Friends a portion of the proceeds back to the park.” the number of clients taking Acadia tours of Acadia mailed the calendars as thank-you Two businesses relatively new to Friends of in 2018. The company will continue the gifts to donors who contributed to the Giving Acadia also have recently begun contributing program this year. “We are always looking for Tuesday campaign last November. proceeds or donations-per-guest. opportunities to give back to the places where Friends of Acadia is grateful to the business Chimani, a Maine-based company, community for all its support, in every produces app guides to national parks form. Whether the gifts come as business in the U.S. and Canada. Its Chimani memberships, sponsorships, sales proceeds, Perks program offers annual or lifetime grants, use of meeting spaces, or nonprofit subscriptions giving unlimited access to 64 discounts, each contribution gives a boost to apps. In a new agreement with Friends of we travel by supporting local initiatives and our work to preserve Acadia. Acadia, the company will give a free one-year organizations that our guests experience on For more information email lisahorsch@ subscription to new members and volunteers tour,” said Country Walkers product director friendsofacadia.org, or call 207-288-3340. � and a half-price one-year subscription to Joe Flynn. “When we discovered Friends of Friends of Acadia Journal Spring 2019 23 Updates

Acadia Transportation Plan in finalizing the document. Friends of Acadia Massie. The club then voted to increase our The final version of the Acadia National submitted comments encouraging adoption annual donation for 2018 to $1,000 for these Park Transportation Plan and Environmental of the park’s proposal. two endeavors.” Impact Statement (EIS) was released by The complete plan was released on Friends of Acadia thanks the BHGC and National Park Service officials in March. March 25. Charlotte Stetson for this beautiful addition The purposes of the plan are to provide safe Park officials have indicated that to the suite of publications at the Gardens. and efficient transportation and access while implementation of the changes FOA would also like to thank the many preserving high-quality visitor experiences recommended in the plan, including donors who contributed funds to help the and ensuring protection of park resources seasonal reservation requirements for Wild Gardens recover from the flooding and values. access to high congestion areas, vehicle size and freezing events experienced during the The result of a three-year effort, the plan restrictions, and a new parking plan for winter of 2018. outlines ways to address traffic, parking and access to carriage roads at Eagle Lake, could vehicle congestion in the park, in particular not begin until 2020 at the earliest. along Ocean Drive, around the Jordan Pond To find out more about the contents of the House, and on the summit of Cadillac final plan please visit www.friendsofacadia.org. Mountain. On a typical day as many as 450 cars attempt to park at once on Cadillac Wild Gardens Card Available Mountain. The lot there has just 150 spaces. A financial contribution from the Bar Harbor “With Acadia’s visitation up nearly 60 Garden Club (BHGC) enabled the Wild percent over the last decade, we need forward- Gardens of Acadia committee to print a new looking approaches that build on the great postcard available to visitors by donation at success of the Island Explorer bus service, the Gardens’ entrances. Village Connector Trails, and other means The postcard displays cinnamon ferns to provide alternatives to the traditional (Osmundastrum cinnamomeum) from the dependence on private vehicles for touring Wild Gardens in fall. Charlotte Stetson, the park,” said Friends of Acadia President a Wild Gardens volunteer and member and CEO David MacDonald. of the Executive Committee, donated the The draft plan was released last spring photograph. BHGC President Dianne and a series of meetings about its contents McMullen stated, “The issues of winter storm held around Mount Desert Island and the damage in the Wild Gardens and the need region. A 60-day public comment period of financial support for a fall postcard were FOA/REBECCA STANLEY brought to the Club’s attention by the Chair of A cross country skier along the Witch Hole Loop followed. Park officials then analyzed those Carriage Road in Acadia National Park. comments and took them into consideration the BHGC’s Wild Gardens Committee, Betty

Winter Use Study Is Underway at Acadia For the past three years, Becca Stanley has served as Friends of Acadia’s Recreation Technician, helping the National Park Service count and survey recreational users of Acadia. This past year, with the retirement of the park’s visitor use specialist, Charlie Jacobi, Becca took on enhanced data collection and reporting duties, as well as oversight of the work of Devon Brock-Montgomery, a second Recreation Technician hired by Friends of Acadia to help fulfill the park’s recreation monitoring objectives. Last fall, Becca identified a need for winter usage data. After good snowstorms,

COURTESY CHARLOTTE STETSON COURTESY the parking along the roadside at carriage This photograph of a cinnamon fern (Osmundastrum cinnamomeum) at the Wild Gardens of Acadia has been continued on page 26 made into a postcard. 24 Spring 2019 Friends of Acadia Journal SIGN SHOP VOLUNTEERS Don Bell Cliff Olson Hale & Hamlin, LLC Jean Bell David Orsmond Attorneys at Law Ken Burgess Dana Petersen JC Camelio Betsy Roberts Barry K. Mills • Melissa M. Hale Randy Ewins Bob Sanderson Gerry Fournier Julia Schloss Justin M. Bennett • Sally N. Mills Bob Graham Becca Stanley Zachary McNally Jim Linnane Kip Warren Bill McArtor 4 State Street • Ellsworth, ME 04605 207.667.2561 • FAX 207.667.8790 coplonassociates.com NEW TRAILBLAZER www.halehamlin.com 207.288.4122 | Bar Harbor, Maine MEMBERS October 1, 2018 – January 31, 2019 ■ CLASSIC Anonymous Nancy Maglione Jen and Curtis Maria Matthews and T�� N�� L�� S�� Barradale Michael Scott Story Litchﬁ eld Patricia Blakeslee and Sandra Morris slitchﬁ [email protected] Brooks McKinney Diane and Steve Neal classic styles, comfortable living… 207-276-3840 Molly and Margy O’Hare and Tom Collins Greg Leach Represen� ng unique proper� es Eric Colton Marion and for buyers and sellers Ruth and Brian Pawlow window panes www.landvest.com Gary Crowell George Reuther I HOME & GARDEN Patty Dempsey and Michael Sandahl www.windowpanesmdi.com 4A Tracy Road, Northeast Harbor, ME Thomas Maguire Andrea Schenck and 207 288 9550 n 166 Main Street, Bar Harbor Mary Beth and Jeremie Fontana Frank Dorsey Bill Wright Classic Maine Dining. Dawn Foster Fresh Fish, Hand-cut Steaks Sue Kahn and Lunch, Dinner, and Cocktails Daniel Kirschner Open April–November 17 Main Street Bar Harbor • 207-288-9706 In Kind (just up from the town pier) galynsbarharbor.com Acadia Bike & Coastal Kayaking Tours CONTEMPORARY ART Since 1986 Acadia National Park Tours Advertising Specialists of Maine 1112 Main Street | Somesville, Maine www.galleryatsomessound.com | 207.244.1165 Galyn ’ s BerryDunn Downeast Transportation Ellen Asherman Helen and Philip Koch Anne Kozak Lyme Timber Company MDI Biological Laboratory Diana Roper McDowell National Park Sea Kayak Tours Charlotte Stetson Linda and Robert Thayer Hannaford Supermarket 86 Cottage Street, Bar Harbor October 1, 2018 – January 31, 2019

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Friends of Acadia Journal Spring 2019 25 Updates

continued from page 24 road entrances at Eagle Lake can be just as crowded as on a warm summer day. Visitors have also been drawn to see the snowy owls on Sargent Mountain, and many hikers enjoy a day trip up Cadillac Mountain on sunny winter days. But these observations are anecdotal, and the park lacks comprehensive counts of recreational users. To acquire better information, Becca obtained a research permit and deployed game cameras to track numbers and types of usage at seven locations on the carriage roads, trails, and motor roads of the park. She also has been counting vehicles in the parking areas and noting their states of origin when she downloads data from the cameras. The study will continue in 2019 until winter LSR_FriendsAcadia_2.25x1.9_021018.qxp_Layoutconditions 1 have diminished. Becca’s work in this arena is important for several reasons. She has established a monitoring protocol that can be repeated and improved each year. When combined with weather data, her work will help the park note trends in usage and avoid potential Insurance for MDI Families and Businesses resource damage and conflicts. For instance, Since 1932 if commercial skiing or ice climbing tours were ever to be offered, the park could direct 339 Main Street, Southwest Harbor these tours to locations or times of day where LSRIns.com | (207)244-7246 fewer individual park users would be affected. If it was determined that the usage of Sargent Mountain trails in winter was negatively Real Estate Sales & Vacation Rentals Since 1898 affecting the survival of the snowy owls, the Warm Your park could issue limited permits or conduct Home and Hearth

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FOA/JULIA WALKER THOMAS FOA/JULIA WALKER Jordan Pond House MORE POWER… Acadia Winter Trails Association (AWTA) volunteer groomer Mark Fernald AWNLAND operates a brand-new Bearcat grooming snowmobile on a carriage road in Acadia National Park in D March. The sled, purchased by Friends of Acadia from a Harry’s Motorsports in Presque Isle, Maine, is designed for rugged trail work and will help care for the carriage road cross-country ski paths around Eagle Lake and Witch Hole Pond for years to come. The $18,000 purchase was funded by a gift from Offering fresh and high quality Jim Church in memory of his late wife, FOA’s communications director Aimee Beal Church, along with Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegars funds from the AWTA endowment established in memory of Elizabeth R. (Lelia) Bright by her family. Come in and taste for yourself! 8 Rodick Place • Bar Harbor more resource education at the Parkman of Fine Arts, Lisa has more than a decade of 503 Main Street • Rockland Mountain and Brown Mountain parking lots. experience in design and website work, both 88 Main Street • Freeport 90 Maine Street • Brunswick The results of Becca’s study will be in the private sector and for non-profits. At the Vault • Lewiston published in the National Park Service’s An avid hiker, kayaker and occasional At Tiller & Rye • Brewer searchable data store that can be accessed runner, she enjoys all forms of outdoor OPEN YEAR ROUND www.FIOREoliveoils.com through IRMA, the Integrated Resource pursuits including spending time in Acadia WE SHIP! www.facebook.com Management Applications portal (https:// National Park with her wife and their three /FIOREoliveoils Maine’s 2013 Woman-Owned irma.nps.gov). Her work may also influence dogs. They have two grown daughters with Business of the Year the park’s formulas for counting visitors whom Lisa sleepily (but gladly) joins for during the winter months by getting a sunrise on top of Cadillac Mountain every better idea of numbers of visitor groups time they visit. and group sizes. Park visitation topped 3.5 million again in 2019, and the congestion of Acadia Winter Trails Association summer and fall may drive more visitors to Although groom-able snow was rare this winter. Becca’s winter use study will establish season, the Acadia Winter Trails Association a baseline to help the park see patterns and (AWTA) volunteers made the most of their trends moving forward. limited opportunities. The Kubota has been out and around the Brown Mountain New Face at FOA Station pulling the six-foot Ginzu Groomer. Lisa Williams of Ellsworth has joined the AWTA continues to update its fleet with Friends of Acadia Communications team as a the recent purchase of an Arctic Cat Design and Web Associate. Bearcat Snowmobile, which will be based Born and raised in Texas, Lisa eventually out of the Eagle Lake station. Thanks to a returned to reconnect with family roots in combination of efforts between Friends of Maine. As part of FOA’s Communications Acadia and Acadia National Park rangers, team, she contributes her skills in digital AWTA groomers received special permission and print design as well as maintenance and to groom the carriage roads during the expansion of the FOA website. government shutdown. The holder of graduate degrees from the continued on page 28 University of Virginia and Vermont College

Spring 2019 Friends of Acadia Journal 27

IN MEMORIAM We gratefully acknowledge gifts received in memory of: OlisTrolley.com

Winona Atkins David J. Krieger John Banister Polly Lawrence Malcom E. Blanchard Peg Lawson Ride Edward G. Breen Douglas Leland Ethelyn and Benjamin Regina Catherine the Trolley! L. Breeze Sr. Lennox Francis H. Brooks Elwood K. Lovejoy, Sr. Charles, Aileen, and Kathy MacNeil Beth Bybee Alan Madeira Dow L. Case Jack McDowell David Caswell Alexander McIlvaine Joe Catanzano Ray McKay Zachariah and Candace B. Meads Curtis Chafee Richard A. Morris Aimee Beal Church My parents William Clack Patricia Norris Barbara Cleaves Cole Catherine T. Novick Francis and Neil “Goose” O’Keefe The Best Way to See Lorena Crocker Robert T. Oliphant David and Kitzi Crofoot Lucille Pfister and Acadia National Park! Norman L. Daggett Gordon Ramsdell Acadia’s Only Trolley Tour! Barbara Danielson Donald Potter Vance Edward Grace Suzanne Presby Dearborn Louis Price 1 West Street Bastiaan and Roger Ptak Mary DeGraaf Barbara Record Bar Harbor Raymond A. Dietz Jr. Donald and Bette 207 - 288 - 9899 Donald P. Doolittle Reinhold George Dover Judy Rosenberg Wilfred E. Eaton Julie Russell Janet L. Edie Samantha and Jordan Frederick Emery, Jr. Regina Sautner Donald Elwood Engroff Edward F. Saxby Jr. Elizabeth C. Epp Ali Schenck Christopher J. Erickson Gunther “Jack” Schlager Matthew Esposito Suzanne Schrag Kevin P. Farr Patricia and David Scull Cathleen Fioravanti Dorothy Setzer Jeannette Gerbi Jeanne B. Sharpe Kevin Goss Mark Simon Jeff Grey G. Robert Sinnett Shops Geri Hall Craig Smith Heidi Hershberger Stockton N. Smith Downtown Bar Harbor Linda Hook Lee Kit Spahr Mark Horner Jordan Patrick Serving Acadia’s Visitors Marion Houpis and Stapleton since 1932 Robert Merrill Richard A. Swan Laurie and Art Horsch Joan Symington Susan McInnes Howard Mel and Rita Timmons Fitzgerald S. Hudson Robert S. Trainer Lynam a gency Katrina Hummel Cody van Heerden Insurance and reaL estate Andrea Iannuzzi- Keith W. Walker Drennan Sandy Walter Lynam Insurance Mabel Ingalls Dianne L. Watson AGENCY Elizabeth Irwin Carrie and Tom Witt Since 1884 We want to be your agent. Hallett Johnson Jr. Dorothy and Macky Kane Eliot Young David B. Keister Kevin E. Kelley October 1, 2018 – John Kirby January 31, 2019 Camilla Thoron Knapp Serving the Acadia Community for Over 130 Years 227 Main Street, Bar Harbor 207-288-3334 • lynamins.com • lynams.com

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Friends of Acadia Journal Spring 2019 29 Ranger Reports Similar to Today By Earl Brechlin

ome of the challenges faced by Rangers Ranger Senne reports he had to speak in Acadia National Park more than 55 with tree cutting crews multiple times Syears ago were unique to that time. But due to the “wanton burning,” and their several continue to vex those who protect “disregard” for orders to cease. He also and preserve Acadia to this day. noted that 25 apple trees in an orchard at During the early 1950s, rangers filed headquarters on McFarland Hill had their regular monthly reports on their activities. bark removed “as part of the exotic species Some observations, including remarks on elimination program.” the weather, meetings with officials in area In February, rangers had to speak to several towns, and wildlife sightings, appear to be property owners in Salisbury and Hulls coves routine, even mundane. Others, however, about dumping trash on park land. They also reveal a park that is growing in popularity, “Ocean Drive parking dealt with two Bar Harbor men caught target looking for ways to adapt to changing use areas are rapidly becoming practicing with guns on Sand Beach. “The patterns, dealing with invasive species, men were made to clean up all broken glass and a lack of respect for its boundaries on unsightly from accumulations and tin cans…” and were requested to appear the part of a small minority of people that of visitor litter and trash.” in federal court for a preliminary hearing. viewed its trees ripe for cutting and its deer — Ranger Report from 1953 By April, crowds were beginning once easy pickings. again to flock to the Park Loop Road. “Ocean In January of 1953, Eastern District Ranger work, and undergoing training with other Drive parking areas are rapidly becoming Clifford W. Senne, worked on clearing brush area firefighters — the memory of the Great unsightly from accumulations of visitor from boundary lines, overseeing some road Fire of 1947 still vivid in their minds. litter and trash,” Ranger Senne reports. COURTESY ACADIA NATIONAL PARK ACADIA NATIONAL COURTESY Along with patrolling to deter poaching, help collect trash, and maintain trails and boundary lines, rangers in the early years at Acadia National Park also conducted interpretive programs. Above, an unidentified ranger entertains visitors on a sailing trip, complete with musical accompaniment. 30 Spring 2019 Friends of Acadia Journal COURTESY OPEN PARKS NETWORK OPEN PARKS COURTESY COURTESY ACADIA NATIONAL PARK ACADIA NATIONAL COURTESY An undated photograph of the Acadia National Park staff in front of their headquarters on Park Street in Ranger Clifford W. Senne Bar Harbor. The building was moved and is now part of the Dorr Museum of Natural History at College of the Atlantic.

By May, rangers were issuing citations to In August, Ranger Senne reported that of dead deer were found in Schoodic. At visitors on charges of speeding, flower and more than 9,000 people had registered at one point in November, barbed wire was vegetation picking, building campfires in hiking trail heads on Mount Desert Island’s strung near the Jordan Pond House to deter unauthorized places, commercial use of park East Side and at Schoodic. There were more night hunting. Several deer carcasses were roads, and taking dogs onto Sand Beach. than 16,000 camper days at Blackwoods. found on Cadillac Mountain. On the evening of May 28, rangers were In one four day stretch in late November, assisted by Bar Harbor Police in breaking They also dealt with two Bar night patrols by rangers and Maine game up “a free-for-all brawl between two parties Harbor men caught target wardens resulted in five arrests. Rangers of military men from Bangor and civilian complained that a Federal Magistrate hoodlums” on top of Cadillac Mountain. practicing with guns on Sand released one man with a fine of only $1 for All involved were taken to the jail in Bar Beach. “The men were made having a firearm in his vehicle. The next Harbor. Three men remained in custody to clean up all broken glass night, three men were taken to the Bar unable to post the $100 bail each. Harbor Jail. In court the next day they were In June, a special International Order of and tin cans…” each fined $200 plus costs of $5.70. Odd Fellows memorial service was held —Ranger Report from 1953 Another incident involved a “hair- atop Cadillac which rangers noted “has been raising,” car chase on the Lower Mountain teeming with people.” An estimated 800 In a very casual note at the end of his Road at speeds in excess of 75 miles per people attended. They counted 210 cars in September report, Ranger Senne remarked hour, reports note. A ranger was assaulted. the parking lot. about “the extreme danger of the dynamite That suspect faced multiple federal and By July, rangers were fielding regular cache at the old CCC camp at McFarland state charges and bail was set at $1,000. complaints about a lack of camping Hill.” He explained the dynamite, which had Along with routine observations, places and picnic tables, with Blackwoods not been used for two decades was “greatly monthly reports also often contained the Campground in Otter Creek “bursting at deteriorated and soupy.” He estimated names of visiting dignitaries. Among those the seams.” the amount at two tons. “This should be who stopped by to see the foliage during Environmental regulations at the time disposed of before it blows McFarland Hill the fall of 1953 were Senator Margaret were nowhere near as strict as today. Ranger away,” he wrote. Chase Smith of Maine, Senator Theodore Senne also noted a need to extend the sewer By fall, as visitation dropped off, rangers Green of Rhode Island, Hugues LeGallais, line from the campground “to the low water ramped up their patrols to catch deer Foreign Minister of Luxembourg, John D. line,” to prevent a “most unhealthy and poachers. Throughout the year, reports Rockefeller, Jr., and Congressman John odoriferous situation.” of dead deer, gunshots at night, and Pellion of Buffalo, NY. � Also in July, a woman who fell into vandalism attributable to illegal hunting Thunder Hole was rescued by another park filled patrol files. EARL BRECHLIN is Friends of Acadia’s visitor. “Our life ring at Thunder Hole paid In October, two men from MDI were Communications Director. for itself that day,” Ranger Senne notes. arrested and convicted of poaching. Remains Friends of Acadia Journal Spring 2019 31 Chair’s Letter

Sharing Some Park Perspective

ast October I was fortunate to spend the other when we are pining and planning a week at Glacier National Park in our time back in there. LMontana. It was a first-time visit to FOA’s off season is anything but idle for attend the Friend’s Alliance conference on the board and staff. A busy calendar of behalf of Friends of Acadia. behind-the-scenes meetings and activities My husband and I spent a few days before occurs during the winter and spring. Plans the meetings hiking, sightseeing on the or meetings are taking place up and down iconic Red Bus Tours, and getting to know the East Coast preparing for the 30th a landscape where visitors must be armed Annual Benefit and Auction. Smaller events with bear spray. Glacier is a glorious area are being held by board members in their of the Rocky Mountains, with glistening communities to gather area friends with glacier-carved peaks and valleys running Kevin Schneider and David MacDonald. up to the Canadian border. We were struck Thinking about the upcoming warmer by the massive scale of destruction from weather includes pondering about how to recent fires that forced visitors in Glacier keep my approach to summer fresh. While to evacuate in August — peak time during much of my personal energy is spent that park’s short, two-month season. Even FOA connecting with many FOA friends and some historic structures were lost. crisis situations many parks are managing seasoned users of Acadia, I like to think Dazzling fall foliage formed a patchwork and describing seemed enormous. Yes, of new ways to convey my passion for the with burned-over areas. The interplay Acadia’s visitation is escalating, and traffic park to new friends and entice them to of the living forest, and the blackened congestion is a major concern. But parks visit for their first time. ground, yielded a panoramic reminder of such as Hawai’i Volcanoes face challenges It is important for us all to cultivate the forces of nature at work in our parks. that include inaccessibility due to active new friends by sharing our love for Acadia As we trekked around, we enjoyed volcanoes and lava flows. Twin hurricanes and all the natural wonders it has to offer. hiking part of the trail up Many Glacier. in St. John- Virgin Islands wreaked havoc Invite them to visit off season to see the Two feet of fresh snow added to the sense with widespread destruction. Both those Acadia night sky or come in June for of adventure. Quite a few of the trail heads parks face a long road to resumption of National Trails Day. If they are up for an were closed because of recent black and normal activities. adventure, suggest they hike up Sargent grizzly bear activity and snowfall. Hearing those stories made me realize Mountain in winter in hopes of spotting Today, just 30 glaciers remain of the how truly blessed we have been for an elusive snowy owl before they return 150 that existed in 1910 when the park decades in Acadia where natural disaster to the north. was established. Glaciers are among the recovery remains an uncommon topic Shortly our family will be back in park’s most popular natural wonders and, of discussion. Acadia’s luck held during Acadia, living the good life of summer days as well as wildlife sightings, are a major the partial government shutdown. The of hiking on Parkman Mountain, boating draw for park visitors. Warming climate park was relatively quiet due to the time to Baker’s Island for a picnic, and biking conditions are the most likely cause of the of year. Acadia did not encounter the on the carriage roads. It may be part of our loss of ice. problems western parks experienced with usual family routine, but it never gets old. At the Friend’s Alliance Conference FOA overflowing trash, unkept restrooms, I look forward to meeting you, and had a strong showing with our executive resource degradation, and more that some of your new FOA friends, out in the director, board chair, and Acadia’s overwhelmed the system and put visitor park this summer. Happy Trails! superintendent in attendance. Attendees safety and the environment at risk. were buzzing about the good work and I realized while in Glacier that venturing With Gratitude, progress going on at Acadia. That led one out in other national parks delivers a National Park Service staff member to ask healthy dose of perspective. In 2019 I hope Acadia Superintendent Kevin Schneider to further broaden my perspective with —Anne B. Green “What is in the water in Acadia? What is it trips to the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone. you are drinking?” Closer to home, it appears as if there are In listening to the featured speakers two seasons when it comes to time spent from other parks and friends groups, the in Acadia. One for being in the park, and 32 Summer 2018 Friends of Acadia Journal Reflect on the Give the gift of a membership to Friends of Acadia Magic of Acadia to help preserve and protect Acadia National Park for current and future generations!

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Thank You Canon U.S.A. • For your six years of generous grant support for vital Friends of Acadia programs helping to protect and preserve Acadia National Park. • Financial support and equipment donation for the Acadia Youth Technology Team which helped create thousands of spectacular images and educational videos. • Leadership to help grow the park’s Exotic (Invasive) Plant Management Team into one of the top programs of its kind in the park service. • Support for innovative and advanced water quality monitoring and reporting at Jordan Pond.

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Friends of Acadia preserves, protects, and promotes stewardship of the outstanding natural beauty, ecological vitality, and distinctive cultural resources of Acadia National Park and surrounding communities for the inspiration and enjoyment of current and future generations. friendsofacadia.orgFriends of |Acadia 43 Cottage 43 Cottage Street Street| PO Box PO 45Box | 45Bar BarHarbor, Harbo MEr, M | aine04609 04609 | 207-288-3340 207-288-3340 | 800-625-0321800-625-0321