ASSETS

OMETIMES, LIFE IS strange. Today is one such time. After 30 hours travelling TRAVEL TAHITI Sfrom London to Paris to Los Angeles to Pape’ete and on to the south Tahitian peninsular at Teahupo’o, I find myself sitting in a sleepless daze under the shade of a gazebo while a party unfurls around me. I’m trying to engage in conversation with MAKING WAVES a warm-faced elderly gent seated next to me, sporting a flower garland almost as big as Deep in the South Pacific, DUNCAN MADDEN finds he is, alert blue eyes peering out from under the peak of a simple white cap with the word one of Mother Nature’s wonders and watches the ‘President’ inscribed on it in gold stitching. world’s best pro surfers challenge her for glory But in my befuddled state my A-level French is suffering, so my native guide Manoa leans in to lend a much-needed hand. “Who was that?” I ask after my brief, hesitating encounter. “The president of ,” my companion replies. “Did you not see his hat?” Before I can think up a suitably dry retort, a hand is tugging at my own and I’m whisked on stage by a Tahitian vision of beauty – all grass skirt and flowers in her hair – to engage in some ritual hip shaking, much to the amusement of the onlooking crowd. That crowd consists of much of the French Polynesian government, the most powerful men in the ASP (the Association of Professionals, this year renamed the ), and a scattering of some of the best surfers in the world, including the popular local legend Michel Bourez. I’m at a loss. Although I’ve just flown 10,000 miles to watch the best surfers do battle with what has fast become the most infamous wave on the global surf tour, this initiation was not how I expected to introduce myself. Humiliation over, I retire back to the shaded anonymity of the gazebo and wait out the rest of the opening ceremony in red-faced fatigue. Running from March to December and taking in 11 stops through eight countries often remotely dotted around the globe, the World Surf League is perhaps the most glamorous, most gruelling sporting series in the world. But from the legendary barrels

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PARADISE FOUND: PARADISE (clockwise from this image) The Intercontinental a not-too- Tahiti: shabby place to await the surf; expect more than just surfers in the local waters; if you prefer a less high-octane ride, take to the high seas on a boat instead of a board; go on, join in…

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With the comp on hold I hop in my hire car on hold I hop in my hire the comp With For that, there’s one reason alone – reason one For that, there’s As with every surf event, we find ourselves is the epitome of Tahiti The Intercontinental in the South Pacific that’s found fame in the South Pacific that’s Both pneumatic and beguiling, Chopes is up to rears that a wave 20 feet a still ocean from fearless local birds, swooping in to pick up swooping fearless local birds, crumbs and keeping guests amused and on their toes in equal measure. exploration. First stop is the capital, for a day’s Pape’ete – a curious mix of unmistakably wild, set against the architecture French run-down aesthetic that typifies so many of Wide boulevards these South Pacific idylls. by colonial-style lamps and bordered encircling the city, circumnavigate boardwalks shabby corrugated metal hotels, haphazard shopping malls, markets and dingy bars Oddly fine dining and cheap beer. promising deserted thanks to it being a national holiday, I find myself disquieted by the empty streets squaremile ASSETS ➤ event of them all. as the most prestigious Cho-Po and widely Pronounced Teahupo’o. to as ‘Chopes’, this monstrous referred of a wave set against the unfettered terror finest scenery is beauty of Mother Nature’s unimaginable thing. almost an extraordinary, in equal measure, Pneumatic and beguiling up to 20 feet in rears Chopes is a wave that an almost still ocean and unloads an size from into water inches untameable fury of power reef. thin over a razor-sharp deep and spread than one claimed more a wave that has It’s years – indeed, the recent life in hedonist’s loosely translates as ‘place Teahupo’o word of skulls’ or ‘to sever the head’. and with only of the waves at the mercy a small swell running, competition is put on back to the I gratefully retreat hold for the day. an hour’s Tahiti, Resort plush Intercontinental drive north along the glorious coast, and sleep. resort. While South Pacific a picture-postcard simply, villas are and over-water the rooms cleanly furnished and lovely in a faded, floral that gardens of tropical the 32 acres it’s way, My morning special. make it something really two huge pools, one reveals to breakfast stroll fringed with man-made beach and wet bar, the other abutting a saltwater lagoon where guests can swim safety alongside inquisitive with the my breakfast sea life. I share tropical

PHOTOGRAPH (pandanus line) by Jean-Philippe YUAM Photography; (flotilla) Tor Johnson PHOTOGRAPH by Tahiti Tourisme/Raymond Sahuquet com .

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airtahitinui.co.uk We float for hours, dodging giant surf and float for hours, We a fitting end to a gladiatorial contest It’s journey I’d rather be taking. Tahiti Nui, the national carrier Duncan flew with Air to French Polynesia with departures from Paris, Los with connecting and Auckland to Tahiti Angeles, Tokyo Virgin Atlantic. flights available from London with An economy class return fare from London to Pape’ete, via LAX starts from £1,450 including taxes. Tahiti 0844 482 1675, tour For more information on The Islands of Tahiti, operator package deals and special offers check out tahiti-tourisme.co.uk reassuringly lackadaisical as he chugs our tiny lackadaisical reassuringly lineup. the imposing boat toward best outrun waves of watching the world’s ridden, are Huge barrels impossible ferocity. seemingly unsurvivable wipeouts survived, made and a world champion reputations . in Brazil’s uncovered held in once-in-a-lifetime conditions. I step back onto dry land with my sea legs still on Ahead of and wobble unsteadily to my car. me I think about the long, long flight home, grabbing then turn back to see Tikanui and racing back out into the his surfboard and I instantly know which maelstrom,

On my second-to-last day the swell finally the biggest swell ever seen at this It’s I spend the next few days in anticipation of surfing these waves and knows them better season he’d ridden than most. The previous and is one of the biggest waves ever seen here western coastline, and chat idly to friendly local surfers huddled on beaches keeping a collective watchful eye on the horizon. dawn, I race the hour south arrives. Up before just in time and arrive at the end of the road to catch a ride on local big-wave surfer Tikanui boat so we can watch the action from Smith’s a truly up-close-and-personal perspective. in the annual competition and the atmosphere water is electric with excitement and palpable Seeing this kind of natural power with fear. and disconcerting. so close is surreal from up grew have worried – Tikanui But I needn’t world and the scenery may change, but the best things in life stay exactly the same. (and hopeful for) waves, killing time exploring. I’m able, hiking inland as far as I venture vertiginous paths to craggy hilltops hidden wash away the deep in the jungle canopy, unnamed sweat of my exertions in a hundred beaches and coves along the never-ending

fame, I bump into Treasure Island Treasure

A few miles up the coast I find everyone. and lack of traffic. My only companions – Give us a wave from the top… Robinson Crusoe and explore verdant, Tahiti’s mountainous landscape. ISLAND ADVENTURES: When the surf’s ‘down’, there’s the option to make like atmosphere is electric 104 ever seen at this competition and the It’s the biggest swell It’s Manoa and his family and spend a couple of hospitality at its finest hours enjoying Tahitian the – beer and barbecues on the beach. Tour sited Venus passing overhead, and a century passing overhead, sited Venus later a place of sanctuary for Robert Louis Stevenson of an idyllic sandy peninsula and traditional in an epic gathering place for locals to relax Named by Captain Cook natural playground. on his first visit to the islands in 1769 after he but clearly have nothing better to do. island And I mean everyone – the entire Point, seemingly come together at Venus ➤ a ragtag bunch of (I assume) wild dogs who disinterested seemingly trail behind me – are