the Burren EXPLORER 1 The Burren Code Support the principles of the Burren Code to help safeguard this important landscape: • Leave the limestone pavement as you find it* • Preserve natural habitats and leave wildflowers undisturbed • Take care not to damage monuments, walls and buildings • Respect landowners, their property and their livestock • Park and camp in designated areas • Leave no trace of your visit, take nothing but memories * Limestone Pavement is listed as a “Priority Habitat” in the European Habitats Directive, 1992, and is protected by law. Cód na Boirne Tabhair tacaíocht do phrionsabail Chód na Boirne ar mhaith leis an tírdhreach tábhachtach seo a chosaint • Fág an cosán aolchloiche* mar a fhaigheann tú í • Caomhnaigh na gnáthóga nádúrtha agus ná cuir isteach ar bhláthanna fiáine* • Bí cúramach agus ná déan dochar do shéadchomharthaí, do bhallaí ná d’fhoirgnimh • Bíodh meas agat ar úinéirí talún, ar a maoin agus ar a mbeostoc • Páirceáil agus campáil sna limistéir shonraithe • Ná fág rian ar bith de do chuairt; ná tabhair leat ach cuimhní * Tá Cosán Aolchloiche liostaithe mar “Ghnáthóg Tosaíochta” i dTreoir Eorpach Gnáthóga, 1992, agus tá cosaint dlí aici. 2 The content of the Burren explorer is based on research and submissions from dr. Carleton Jones, Brendan dunford, Mary angela Keane, Paddy Maher, Liz Fitzpatrick, John doorty, PJ Curtis, Tina o dwyer, Carol Glesson, eimer McCarthy and natacha del Fiol. Photography and images: Burrenbeo, Shannon development, Clare Champion, Burren College of art, Burren Perfumery, John Kelly Photography Cartography: Walking and Cycling Trails by Shannon development design: david rice at opticnerve.ie editing: Siobain o’Brien Proof reading: Margaret o’Brien Produced by the Burren & Cliffs of Moher Geopark (Carol Gleeson) and the Burren explorer Group (Frances Connole, orla Vaughan and Fintan o’ donnell). Published: april 2013 Version: 3 Printed by: d2 Print To download a PdF of this booklet, visit www.burren.ie discalimer: every care has been taken to be as comprehensive and inclusive as possible in the compilation of the Buren explorer. Where errors and omissions are brought to our attention, future editions of the Burren explorer can be amended accordingly. Please direct your comments and feedback to [email protected] note on place name spelling: The official ordnance survey place-name spelling, used on all signage and maps, is used in the main text of this guide. Local spellings may be used in other contexts, for example where business names use the local spelling. ConTents 3 introduction 4 Geology & Landscape 6 Geology—did you know? 8 archaeology & Landscape 10 historical Structures 12 historic Buildings Timeline 13 Flora of the Burren 14 Fauna of the Burren 16 agriculture & Land use 18 Burren Culture 20 Burren Folklore 22 Burren & Cliffs of Moher Geopark 24 Burren ecotourism 26 The Burren Food Trail 28 Walking in the Burren 30 Burren Walking & Cycling Trails 31 Burren Towns & Villages 47 Music, Festivals & events of the Burren 81 4 inTroduCTion The Burren Land of the Fertile Rock Fáilte go dtí An Bhoireann Welcome to the Burren Your Burren Explorer will give you a taste of the history, local culture and traditions in the Burren, as well as comprehensive listings on what to do, eat, dining and details of many cultural festivals, events, live music sessions in the town and villages that make up this special karst region of North Clare. From the traditional music events in spring and the Burren in Bloom festival in May, to the summer events like weekly Teach Cheoil traditional Irish concerts in Corofin and Ceili’s in Kilfenora. Even winter events such as Russell Music Weekend in Doolin and the Ballyvaughan Christmas Markets, the Burren is a place that is as beautiful and lively in winter as it is in spring, summer or autumn. 5 The Burren has an extensive and varied selection of accommodation, including family-run bed & breakfasts where one can get a real taste of home cooking and inside information on the local culture and traditions of the area. Hotels, guesthouses, self-catering accommodation, as well as quality hostels, caravan and camping sites ensure that every type of traveller is catered for. The great variety of places to eat and drink, from traditional pub food to restaurants and cafes, over 20 visitor attractions, spectacular scenery, beautiful beaches, outdoor activities to suit all capabilities, as well as an abundance of archaeological and historical sites of interest, will ensure that your visit to the Burren is as action-packed or as relaxing as you choose. We hope that this Explorer will help you enjoy your holiday more and also help to protect this special environment, as well as contribute to the economic and social development of the people and cultures of the Burren. Further information on the Burren can be obtained at any of the nine dedicated Burren information points in the region highlighted in the Burren Explorer Map. 6 GeoLoGy & LandSCaPe 340–317 million years ago during the Carboniferous Period, the Burren formed the floor of a shallow tropical sea, much like the modern-day Caribbean. The warm, shallow tropical seas supported a prolific and diverse range of marine life, including corals and many types of shellfish. When the dead bodies of the marine life decayed, they created a limey mud. Over time and with deeper burial the limey mud compacted to form limestone rock, hence the limestone rock, which forms the present day Burren region, was born. Limestone has a special relationship with water as it will dissolve very slowly in the presence of mildly acidic rainwater and melting ice. When this happens to a large exposed area of limestone what emerges is called a Karst geological region. When bare limestone mountains and hills become exposed to wind, rain and ice they become ‘karstified’. 7 After millions of years of earthquake movements the limestone beds rose up from the tropical seas and surfaced to form mountains. The landscape of the Burren was then shaped by erosion and the smoothing movements of massive ice sheets, called glaciers. During the last great Ice Age, which ended 12,000 years ago, these glaciers moved from north to south across the Burren region. The front of these glaciers behaved like massive bulldozers and when they finally melted away they left behind large boulders on the surface of the limestone called Erratics. Underground erosion by the melting ice water also created many caves, a feature which makes the Burren a popular place for subterranean explorers called speleologists. This text was supplied by Paddy Maher, Ruan, Co. Clare. 8 GeoLoGy— did you KnoW? Burren rock pavement is very rare and is specially protected The bare limestone rock pavement of the Burren is dissected by “clint and gryke” structures. The grykes, formed by water dissolving away limestone along joints are the vertical fractures seen running through the solid limestone. The clints are the limestone blocks surrounded by these fractures. This Limestone pavement is protected by European legislation because of its international importance and, like the rare flowers, it is important that it is not disturbed or damaged. Magical disappearing lakes The disappearing lakes of the Burren are called Turloughs. These are seasonally dry karst lakes which form in hollows in the limestone. They fill and drain with water through a series of holes and cracks in the floor of the Turlough which are linked to cave systems. Some of these lakes can fill very quickly and they can be observed to shrink and swell in a matter of hours. 9 The longest cave system in Ireland A cave in the Burren called Poulnagollum is Ireland’s longest cave. It runs for over 15km and is 140 meters deep. It can be found on the eastern slopes of Slieve Elva Mountain, near the town of Lisdoonvarna. The largest Stalactite in Europe Discovered in 1952, the Great Stalactite at Pol na Ionain known today as Doolin Cave measures 6.54 metres (20 feet) in length. It is now recognised as being the longest stalactite in Europe. This text was supplied by Paddy Maher, Geologist, Ruan, Co. Clare. 10 arChaeoLoGy & LandSCaPe It’s believed that the first full-time inhabitants of the Burren were farmers who arrived around 3800 BC. The most visible remains of their former presence are the megalithic tombs they built, such as the portal tomb at Poulnabrone. Throughout the era known as the Neolithic period (c. 4000–2400 BC), these farmers raised their herds on the gentle southern slopes of the Burren. The Burren was good to them, but we have evidence, including large- scale tree clearance, that by the end of the Neolithic period and into the Early Bronze Age (c. 2400–2000 BC), an increasing population may have put considerable pressure on the Burren’s resources. The Burren contains eighty wedge tombs (all of which date to this period) and represents the densest concentration of tombs in Ireland (wedge tombs were the last type of megalithic tomb to be built). 11 The unique environment of the Burren has also ensured that the much more ephemeral remains of these peoples’ farms and field walls are still visible as low grass-covered mounds over 4,000 years after they were built! After this boom time in the Final Neolithic/ Early Bronze Age, the population focus may have shifted off of the Burren and towards southeast Clare. The Burren was not completely abandoned however, and spectacular finds such as the large gold Gleninsheen gorge demonstrate the significant activity on the Burren in the Bronze Age (1500–600). Pollen evidence for a regeneration of trees on the Burren during the subsequent Iron Age (600 BC–400 AD) indicates an even greater drop-off in farming and population that lasted until the Early Medieval period (400–1300 AD), when the trees were re-cleared and the population of the Burren increased once again.