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The Naturally Yours INSIDE... 4-5 6-7 8-9 And The Burren: Geosites: 9 Wonders of Geopark A Rock of Eco the Burren Tourism

10-11 12-13 Burren Living Festivals Towns & Villages & Events 14-15 Cliffs of Moher 16-17 & Cave Centre of Learning

18-20 21-34 35-48 Food & Drink The Burren Get Active Heaven Perfumery & Glanquin House 58-59 49-57 Burren Places to Stay Members

Sandstone and Shale Murrooghtoohy 8 CCastle

C ah er Beach 42 V a l le 2 1 Caher Valley Loop y B Black Head Loop 11 Fanore to Trek Fanore R477 Baliny

Charging Point C N67 B Gragan C e Trail Head

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43 48 Craggycorradane tage Trail 26 30 C 24 3 C R477 41 CaherconnellFort C Sustainable L Trail Head The Burren Cycleway B R479 Smokehouse Doolin Pier 17 Cycleway R476 y Doolin R Map Cycle Hub Doolin 47 25 33 40 44 Travel R478 G N67 Kilfilfenorae ra CaC thedrala tion Centre r e Cliffs of Moher h o 5 7 12 t M Visitor Experience 35 R f R481 o s 27 34 ff li C 21

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o, stand on the edge of the Burren, on its pavement and listen; hear the waves crash into the uGnseen caves beneath your feet. Then The Burren turn; look at the Cliffs of Moher as they rise majestically from the raging sea, and you will realise why this extraordinary region, with its and Cliffs magnificent landscape, has been awarded the prestigious UNESCO recognised Global Geopark Status.

As a Geopark, the Burren and Cliffs of of Moher Moher region has become internationally recognised, though plenty of people, some Each doline and polje (flat depressions So, go, stand in the centre of the Burren, 800,000 per year, have been aware of this within the limestone), each dry valley and One vast look around, learn and explore. It is there hidden gem on the west coast of for turlough, along with the hundreds of memorial to waiting. It is, naturally yours. Geopark a long time. Not only does the region have kilometres of underground caves, make up the geological importance that is required “ the uniqueness that is the Burren. bygone Visitor information relating to the of a Geopark, it also has the all-important cultures.” Burren and Cliffs of Moher Geopark Kelly Humphries network of organisations that oversee the With such a delicate and important is available from tourism in the area as well as the education landscape, this region must be protected by www.burrengeopark.ie and and conservation efforts. As a Geopark, the Burren and Cliffs of the people who use it and thus the Burren www.facebook.com/BurrenGeopark. Moher region is set to continue its rise on Ecotourism Network was created. This Making up over 530 square kilometres, the the world stage, not only as an important Contact: Burren & Cliffs of Moher network, together with regional Burren and Cliffs of Moher region offers a geological region, but also as a mecca for Geopark, diversity that is second to none. There is development agencies and local sustainable tourism. It was shortlisted in the Office, , Co Clare. the natural beauty of over 200 metre high communities, is determined to care for and ‘Best Destination for Responsible Tourism’ Ireland cliffs with its eight kilometres of rugged keep this pristine region sustainable. category in the 2013 World Responsible Tel: +353 (0) 65-7071017. Email: coastline, and there is beauty in the vast Through this network, local businesses Tourism Awards. The World Travel & [email protected] array of flora, including Arctic and Alpine have come together to provide visitors with Tourism Council (WTTC) named the flowers that grow surprisingly alongside locally produced foods, handcrafted Geopark as one of 3 finalists in the The Geopark is funded by Clare Mediterranean species. There is also the products, and exciting yet environmentally destination catagory for its 2014 Tourism County Council, The Geological Survey staggering amount of history in the Burren sound experiences within the region. for Tomorrow Awards. of Ireland and Fáilte Ireland. region with over 2,700 recorded monuments, some dating back over 6,000 years. This has led to the Burren being described as “one vast memorial to bygone cultures”.

Universally, the Burren is renowned for its landscape and its Ice Age legacy is apparent throughout. From the limestone pavement, the gorges, the springs and the swallow-holes, to the glacial striations, the boulders and erratics; every square metre of this distinctive landscape is understandably important.

There is beauty in the vast array “of flora, including Arctic and Alpine

© Burren Yoga & Meditation Centre flowers.”

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ome with us, into the wild Burren we go. Come, and discover all that is waiting The Burren: A rock Cfor you. From archaeology to adventure, from geology to botany, discover the pristine beaches, the limestone mountains. of Ecotourism Uncover magical caves, hidden churches, and sacred wells. Find yourself hiking, cycling, surfing, kayaking, and The Burren is leading the way for Irish tourism, offering visitors caving. Immerse yourself in the fine local foods or sit back and enjoy great an exciting range of ecotourism experiences. Burren traditional music. Come to North Clare, to this magnificent region and find Ecotourism represents a growing collective of tourism everything you want. operators that are committed to the promotion of responsible And with that tempting invitation, we packed our bags ready for anything and travel to this unique region, writes Kelly Humphries. everything the Burren had to offer.

With its limestone backdrop and Global Geopark status, the Burren has emerged as a top holiday destination in Ireland and with this comes a host of local businesses waiting to show visitors just what the Burren has in abundance— something truly unique.

On my visit to the Burren, what I found was a community that had passion and Come to North find and dispose of waste properly. pride for the region they live and work There is something refreshing in getting in. From this community spirit and with Clare, to this to experience a host of different activities the support of local and national “ that have been put together especially for agencies, Burren Ecotourism emerged, magnificent you by a number of different operators— with its philosophy of awareness, region and find operators that are able to work together conservation and sustainability. harmoniously for the good of the visitor. everything you This is a rare and marvellous thing. The Burren Ecotourism objective is to ensure that every visitor to the area has an want.” There is a feeling in the Burren, a certain exciting and memorable holiday way of life and a pride that is evident in experience, which in turn supports certification and conservation. It’s also each person that calls this region their sustainability and conservation efforts in about building community and this is home. This spirit allows each visitor to the local community. This business obvious in the collaboration that occurs take something back with them, not just network prides itself on providing genuine between businesses within the network. great memories of a place or an activity, and authentic experiences for all visitors The Burren, with its fascinating natural but also great memories of the people. coming to the Burren. environment and abundance of cultural There is truly no other place like this, remains, is an important, yet fragile, where businesses work with their Burren Ecotourism has also provided resource to be enjoyed, respected and surroundings in such a way that allows tourism-based businesses with a way to conserved for future generations. the natural beauty of the region to shine maintain a high standard of sustainability through above all else. with an eco-certification process. Each To help protect the Burren, Burren operator involved with the network has, or Ecotourism encourages visitors to Whether visiting the Burren for an is in the process of having, visitor follow the principles of Leave No Trace. afternoon outing or for a two-week experiences independently certified by Leave No Trace is an outdoor ethics vacation, there is so much available here Ecotourism Ireland. This assures visitors educational programme designed to to fill each and every moment no matter that when they support such businesses in promote and inspire responsible what your interest. the area, they are supporting behaviour in the outdoors through environmentally-conscious operators, who education, research and partnerships. So explore the rugged and wild Burren are committed to long-term sustainability Principles include: Plan ahead and and be amazed; be captivated; be free. and conservation of the Burren. prepare; be considerate to others; respect Burren Ecotourism is supported by the farm animals and wildlife; travel and Burren & Cliffs of Moher Geopark and The network is not just about camp on durable ground; leave what you Clare Local Development Company.

6 | The Burren A unique visitor experience 6 | The Burren A unique visitor A unique visitor experience The Burren | 7 experience The Burren Naturally Yours Naturally Yours The Burren Poulnabrone, Standing 214 metres and stretching for a portal tomb eight kilometres, the Cliffs of Moher are “dating back to one the most spectacular sights in the Burren. On a clear day one can see as far the as Bay in the north to the Blasket in the south. The rocks that make period, is this cliff formation were formed over GEOSITES 300 million years ago and one can see perhaps one of the layers of sandstone, siltstone and the most shale quite easily. A variety of coastal recognisable landforms can be found here including 9 Wonders sea caves, sea arches, sea stacks and sea images of stumps formed by the constant erosion of the cliff face. One such example is the ancient Ireland.” great seat stack Branaunmore, which The Cliffs of stands at 67 metres in height. of the Burren Moher are one the rocks full of ancient marine fossils to The village of Lisdoonvarna is located “ most spectacular find. The Caher River, the Burren’s only in a landscape of steep shale hills with above ground river, enters the sea here deep gorges. A number of mineral rich sights in the and the estuary contains many Calcite springs surface here that carry sulphur, Burren. covered rocks. iron, magnesium and calcium. Visitors have come here for over 150 years to In Doolin, a gentle walk along the avail of the healing properties of the Lough Bunny has proved an enigma limestone pavement at Doolin Pier water at Lisdoonvarna Spa Wells. The to many as no streams flow in or out. shows the sheer power of the Atlantic grounds of these wells are open to visitors This shallow lake has quite low nutrient Ocean. Massive limestone blocks have during the summer. levels in the water and the floor is made been thrown onto the shoreline and the up of limestone mud on pavement. The rock pools have been carved by centuries Located in the south east corner of the ruins by the lake are known locally as of erosion. There are also ‘glacial Burren, is 1500 Bolton Castle. Make sure to find the erratics’ strewn around the area. Giant hectares in size and contains many unique limestone features such as sheets of ice moved across the land here fascinating geological features and egg-box shaped hollows. between 25,000 and 12,000 years ago. natural sites including limestone hills The sheets picked up rocks and boulders with beautiful folding patterns. The A turlough is a disappearing lake, From beaches to piers, neolithic tombs to disappearing from the landscape, carried them along guided tours are a great way to see and appearing with heavy rainfall and then and then dropped them as it melted— learn about the secrets and fascinating vanishing as the water drains. Carron lakes, there are nine fascinating sites of geological hence the name ‘erratic’. history of this park. Turlough is located on the largest karst depression in northwest Europe. The importance scattered around the Burren and Cliffs of Carron Loop walking trail will bring you over Termon Mountain to Termon Cross, Moher Geopark. Temple Cronin Medieval Church and St. Fachtnan’s Holy Well.

Poulnabrone, a portal tomb dating back s well as geological Stretching from New Quay to the to the neolithic period, is perhaps one characteristics, many of at Finavarra Point, the of the most recognisable images of these also have cultural or Flaggy Shore is strewn with glacial ancient Ireland. Poulnabrone means heritage significance too. erratics including pink granite from “home of the quern stones”. WAhether you come across them on Connemeara, purple sandstone rocks Approximately 28 adults and children your travels or tour the network itself, from the Slieve Aughty Mountains and were buried under here with personal these geosites are sure to leave an the native grey limestone Burren rocks. items including crystals, weapons and impression. Here you can find limestone flags and pottery. A close look at the rocks reveals rounded boulders as well as myriad the fossils dating back to 345 million From beaches to piers, neolithic tombs fossils embedded on the smooth years, long before dinosaurs roamed this to disappearing lakes, there are nine limestone pavement of the upper shore earth. fascinating sites of geological that date back to the importance scattered around the Burren period. For more information, see and Cliffs of Moher Geopark. As well as www.burrengeopark.ie or Stone, geological characteristics, many of these Any day spent at Fanore Beach proves Water & Ice: A Geology Trip through also have cultural or heritage both fun and fascinating. This large the Burren, an illustrated booklet, significance too. Whether you come sandy beach may be popular with which is available widely in shops across them on your travels or tour the swimmers and surfers but if you are and centres throughout the Burren network itself, these geosites are sure to more interested in the geology of the and Co. Clare. leave an impression. area there are plenty of boulders and 8 | The Burren A unique visitor experience A unique visitor experience The Burren | 9 The Burren Towns & Villages Towns & Villages The Burren

can be found just a few miles away in Kilfenora, where the Burren Centre is located. The small town is also home to one of Ireland’s best-known musical groups, the Kilfenora Céilí Band, which A useful resource for anyone hoping was founded in the early 20th century. to explore the history of this unique While the band tours both nationally and internationally, they still perform “region can be found just a few miles regularly in Kilfenora and nearby towns. Any opportunity to see them should not away in Kilfenora, where the Burren BURREN LIVING be missed. Centre is located. ” One of the smallest villages that surrounds the Burren is Carron. A charming village with a population of just Towns & Villages over 100, Carron is the birthplace one of Ireland’s most influential sons in Michael Cusack, who inspired and co-founded the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA). The village sits in the middle of the Burren When I think of the Burren, the first Ennistymon, a market town known for and is a starting point for many scenic its traditional shop fronts, local crafts walks around the almost lunar-like image that comes to mind is the and lively pubs. terrain. The stark splendour of the Burren is even rumoured to have inspired fantasy limestone pavements, which are If you tread the path a few miles north author, JRR Tolkien, who explored the along the coast, you can discover the region when he was an examiner in the small village of Doolin, which is equally third level institution, NUI Galway. punctuated by bursts of vividly known for both its musical and literary coloured flora. However, signs of history. The birthplace of renowned whistle player, Micho Russell, Doolin beauty and vibrancy don’t just was also a favoured destination of writers including George Bernard Shaw In an untamed appear between the stone, writes and JM Synge. These traditions are reflected in annual traditional music and landscape, you John Hogan, as the region’s necklace writers’ festivals. “are in the of gateway towns and villages each presence of some On the northern side of the Burren, Travelling further north into Galway, Ballyvaughan is a small harbour village sits on the edge of the Burren. offers their own natural energy. of the most on the south shores of . The A port village, Kinvara has a rich history breathtaking pier and slipway has made it a base for that can still be seen in the well- maritime activities like boating, fishing preserved waterfront and Dunguaire f you’re travelling from , one Twenty kilometres to the west is a scenery Ireland and scuba diving. With the Burren Castle. The village’s legacy of fishing is College of Art just a stone’s throw away, of the first pearls on the winding paradise of the surfing variety in the celebrated every year with the ‘Cruinniu string that you’ll meet is Corofin, town of , which is its picturesque appearance is paired with has to offer. ” na mBád’ festival, which translates to on the edge of the Burren. This internationally recognised for its the warmth of its hospitality. ‘the gathering of the boats’. Ipicturesque village is within close powerful waves. The town also has an proximity of 12 lakes that are internationally renowned golf course and When travelling in between each of these populated by a wide variety of fish a great selection of restaurants and pubs and is known by many as “The for some post-activity relaxation. Just hubs of civilisation in an untamed Angler’s Paradise”. three miles inland from Lahinch is landscape, you are in the presence of some of the most breathtaking scenery Ireland has to offer. Several of the coastal towns and villages mentioned Lisdoonvarna, immortalised by Christy here are on the route of the Wild Atlantic Moore in the song of the same name, is just Way, the longest defined coastal drive in 10 minutes up the road from Doolin. Ireland’s only spa town, with less than 1,000 the world which also takes in the occupants, welcomes up to 40,000 visitors magnificent, Cliffs of Moher. annually for its world famous matchmaking festival. This festival has been going for Perhaps the most distinctive and often over 150 years, as have the values of overlooked feature of the Burren is its providing great food, music and craic. people. Their friendliness and A useful resource for anyone hoping to enthusiasm makes the journey into its explore the history of this unique region rock solid heart all the more memorable.

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produce will accompany the merrymaking.

Literary fans also have a highlight to look forward to in late August as the Burren Tolkien Festival takes place. The region is said to have been a considerable influence in JRR Tolkien’s writing of the classic, Lord of the Rings . The landscape here bears a striking resemblance to some of the descriptions of places in Middle Earth and curiously, there is even a cave called ‘Pollnagollum’ in the Burren! The festival celebrates Tolkien’s work with workshops, debates, guided walks and more.

When the summer ends, the pursuit of romance begins in Clare. The Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking Festival inclined, there’s also the Burren Trail members every weekend for a month (from August Outdoor Activity & Adventure Trail , 29 in 2014, and is expected to attract up which runs events on Fridays over the run events on to 40,000 revellers. Love may well be on same period. “ Mondays from the agenda but good fun is a certainty. Once the summer arrives, the rock festivals Easter to October Foodies will get yet another treat in Festivals & Events in the Burren begin…but probably not the and invite guests October (October 26 in 2014) when sort that you’d first expect! Burren Rocks Lisdoonvarna hosts the Burren Food is a geology-based festival that takes place to enjoy Fayre , featuring a Masterchef and Junior in June (June 5-9 in 2014) in Doolin Cave Masterchef competition, along with Although best known for its otherworldly limestone and the Burren Outdoor Education Centre. everything from cookery demonstrations and artisan talks. It features outdoor exploration, talks by landscape, the Burren also hosts some one of a kind expert geologists and even an Antique tastings and festivals and events throughout the year. John Hogan Rocks Show. meals to tours.” In mid June (June 13-15 in 2014) Doolin highlights a selection of these occasions for visitors and pays tribute to its proud musical heritage locals alike to enjoy. with the village’s very own Doolin Folk Later in the summer, brewing Festival in Hotel Doolin. The festival connoisseurs can sample the tipples on features some of the biggest names from offer for the Doolin Craft Beer Festival ne doesn’t have to wait until was a favoured getaway for authors, food and how it is produced. It includes (August 22-24 in 2014). For the event, Irish traditional and folk music, as well For further information these the summer for the festival including George Bernard Shaw. The cookery demonstrations, celebrity chefs, brewers from around Ireland will as food stalls and a traditional crafts fair. festivals, events and more besides, season to begin in the festival also offers a healthy dose of farmers’ markets, Burren walks and more. descend but music and local artisan visit www.burrenecotourism.com. O Burren, with the Doolin traditional Irish music in some of the Also in June, visitors to the Burren can Writers Weekend taking place in village’s renowned pubs. The region’s popularity amongst fans of celebrate the area’s folklore by partaking March. This event invites writers, both fine cuisine is also reflected in the in the Burren Sacred Wells aspiring and established, to come and The Burren’s rich and diverse plant Burren Food Trail . Trail members run Midsummer Walking Festival (June enjoy workshops, talks and readings growth is celebrated during the Burren events on Mondays from Easter to 20-23 in 2014). Participants in the by leading Irish authors. Doolin has a in Bloom Festival , which runs in May October and invite guests to enjoy weekend event take walks to historic proud literary history, as the village (May 1-31 in 2014). The festival gives everything from tastings and meals to wells in the north Burren areas of people an understanding and tours. For the more adventurously Ballyvaughan, and appreciation of the botanical, Gleninagh. There will be crackling archaeological and cultural wealth of the bonfires to celebrate the midsummer region. Cookery solstice, feasts of local cuisine and traditional music. The Burren Slow Food Festival in demonstrations, Lisdoonvarna also takes place in May “celebrity chefs, For those who prefer to take to the roads (May 23-25 in 2014) and is made for on two or four wheels, June also sees the foodies who flock to west Clare in their farmers’ markets, Tour de Burren Cycling Event and the droves for the abundance of high quality Classic Car Run (June 21 and 23 dining options. This festival focuses on Burren walks and respectively in 2014). the social aspect of eating and the more.” understanding of the link between your

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Cliffs of Moher

UP & under Doolin Cave n the distinctive landscape of The resembles a magnificent The stalactite The Burren is home to an array of geological and historical The Burren there is more than meets chandelier suspended from the ceiling wonders. From the highest height to the deepest depth, the eye because underground, Doolin of this enormous cathedral like chamber. resembles a Cave is home to the longest free- Visitors can hardly believe it has formed “ Ihanging stalactite in the Northern magnificent the Cliffs of Moher and Doolin Cave are some of the most from a single drop of water over Hemisphere. thousands of years. At 7.3 metres in chandelier spectacular examples. length, it has been worth waiting for. Eighty feet below the limestone Once again, the ever-surprising Burren— suspended from pavement of the Burren, walking in very literally—makes its point. here's no front gate that says The cliffs have been on many a visitor’s peregrine falcons as well as more semi-darkness through an underground the ceiling of you have arrived at the itinerary for years but now, the Cliffs of common species.” cave, visitors should keep their eyes Afterwards, you can extend the Burren. Instead you move Moher Visitor Experience can tell you all peeled for the Great Stalactite. Guides adventure from underground to over this enormous slowly from being surrounded you could possibly need to know about Along with welcoming large numbers of often ask people to touch the walls. Wet ground on the charming farmland nature cathedral like bTy green fields, to being immersed in a the location. It is also the departure point visitors each year, management at the with water and calcium deposits, they are trail that takes a looped walk around the sea of limestone paving, framed only for guided nature walks, escorted by a Cliffs of Moher are firmly focused on the a sign that this cave, like the Burren cave setting. The nature trail is home to chamber. by the ocean. Sitting on the Cliffs of Moher Ranger. Walkers head principles of eco-tourism. itself, is living and breathing. indigenous species of flora, along with southwestern edge of the Burren out along the cliff edge paths to view rare and miniature breeds of animals. Visitors can region, the cliffs rise out of the sea to a wildlife, geological features and traces of Staff at the centre work closely with the Following a 120 step descent into the From the trail, you can enjoy the height of over 200 metres and form man over the centuries. Katherine hardly believe it local community in areas from cave, the guide leads people through beautiful views extending to the Twelve some of the most dramatic sea-cliffs in Webster, Director of the Cliffs of Moher educational outreach to community the dimly lit cavern, explaining all Pins of Connemara on a clear day. has formed from northern Europe. Visitor Experience, said “a guided nature events to local business initiatives. It has along it what they can see and what walk here is full of excitement”. they are about to. The experience of a single drop of a sustainable purchasing policy and Visitors can also enjoy delicious home- On a fine day, you will see the Aran seeing ‘Great Stalactite’ is second to cooked foods and cakes in the comfortable works with tenants and visitors in waste water over Islands in the distance, but without “On a recent walk, participants none. Visitors take a deep breath as the surroundings of Doolin Cave Cafe. reduction and energy management— looking beyond the cliffs themselves, witnessed the fly past of an cave is flooded with light. thousands of measuring reductions achieved in these you will see much more. The layers of extraordinary flock of 18 choughs For souvenirs, Doolin Cave pottery, rock in the cliffs tell a story of life in the together. The chough, or celtic crow, is areas since 2008. The centre is one of handmade using glacial clay found deep years.’’ area over the past 320 million years. one of the rarest crow species with only few Irish tourism businesses to be The experience within Doolin Cave, is available in the O’Brien’s Tower—near the highest point 1,900 pairs nesting in Britain and certified by Sustainable Travel gift-shop too. of the cliffs—was built by Sir Cornelius Ireland, so to see this number together at International. of seeing ‘Great O’Brien in 1835. He believed that the the cliffs was very rewarding. Groups “Stalactite’ is development of tourism would benefit regularly see puffins, guillemots, Visit www.cliffsofmoher.ie www.doolincave.ie the local economy. razorbills, fulmar, kittiwakes and Contact 065-7086141 second to Contact 065-7075761 none. ’’ 14 | The Burren A unique visitor experience A unique visitor experience The Burren | 15 The Burren Naturally Yours Naturally Yours The Burren

artists. Visitors can acquire gifts and The Russell Gallery gourmet treats too. It is, exclusively, the home of Andy’s Raku Ceramics Studio. The Russell Gallery is a feast for all the He combines imagination and originality senses, where you can enjoy a sumptuous to create stunning single ornamental glass of organic wine or delicious pieces in the Japanese Raku style, which refreshment while taking in the art and is influenced by the Zen Buddhist architecture. philosophy. Established by Stefania and Andy Russell The Russells also offer a tasty menu in in 1998, it is housed in a beautifully their café and wine bar, accompanied by restored 18th century granary building in organic wines that come directly from the lovely surroundings of New Quay. their family estate in Tuscany, Italy. It “Our gallery is focused on supporting and received both the Georgina Campbell promoting Irish artists and Irish and Bridgestone Guide awards in 2013. producers in general. We also import but we source our products very carefully Whether you choose a home baked cake, and buy directly from the producers. We Italian antipasto or a delectable cheese prioritise small producers, organic made, plate, it’ll be a work of art akin to those fair trade, high quality and creative on the gallery walls. innovation,” Stephania explained.

The gallery—open throughout the year—houses a wide selection of www.russellgallery.net CENTRE OF paintings and prints by established Contact 065-7078185

Burren Nature by their own trips abroad. and school tours. LEARNING “We felt visitors craved information and One very interesting aspect of the Sanctuary guidance when visiting the Burren and sanctuary is the turlough, a disappearing eople may travel through the and seashells when the sea covered this The Burren Nature Sanctuary in Kinvara, we could provide a place for them to lake, which is not fresh water, but tidal, Burren by various modes of area many millions of years ago. The Kilfenora Céilí run by Roy and Mary Bermingham, is enjoy visiting, learn and plan their stay. and drains twice a day during the summer transport but fail to It also broaches the as yet unanswered Band Parlour is a heaven for anyone with a curious nature, We also wanted to share the beauty of our when it is surrounded by blooming purple comprehend the complex and question as to why Alpine, Arctic and “ interest in ecology or a general interest in organic farm that has various different loosestrife and meadowsweet flowers. Pwondrous nature of the terrain through Mediterranean plants which are not native new addition for the region, writes Louise Harrison. Burren habitats—pavement, grassland, which they have traversed. In order to to the region, grow in such abundance in woodland and turlough.” This feature will be celebrated with a appreciate this strange and beautiful the Burren, requiring as they do very 2014. Traditional Established in 2013, the aim, according Burren Food Trail event, 'Picnic at the habitat a most effective way for a visitor different climates. The resulting Irish music is to Roy, was “to be a world class The working IOFGA certified organic Turlough', in August. It will consist of to do so is firstly to visit The Burren kaleidoscope of colours turns the grey interpretive facility for the natural history farm has ponies, donkeys, sheep, rabbits nature walks and home baked food, Interpretative Centre in the centre of landscape into a fabulous natural rock enjoyed of the Burren that focuses on learning and alpacas. The fun, relaxed atmosphere transported to the tipi in baskets, by Kilfenora. garden, which can be enjoyed even by through engaging with nature” inspired is ideal for birthday parties, group visits donkey. those whose knowledge of botany or throughout the The Burren (‘boireann’ i.e. great rock) is geology is very limited. world. ” Respect for the environment is part of the best encountered through experiencing ‘A ethos and the building has a number of Walk Through Time’ exhibition at the The fascinating exhibition and audiovisual sustainable features including a waste centre, which has long been considered as display explains in layman’s language the water treatment system with sand filters “The Gateway to The Burren”. complexities and contradictions of the area. for purifying water before it re-enters the The Kilfenora Céilí Band Parlour is a new limestone aquifer. A 12-minute film helps visitors form a addition for 2014. Traditional Irish music is picture of the Burren through discovery. enjoyed throughout the world and this Along with a café, which offers freshly It details how the limestone pavement was exhibition provides a unique opportunity made produce, artisan coffee and guided formed from an accumulation of fish bones for visitors to trace the music and history of nature walks, the Burren Nature the internationally renowned, Kilfenora Sanctuary provides a wonderful back-to- Céilí Band. nature adventure for all ages.

With the help of top of the range projectors Before you go walking or touring the area, and acoustics, the vibrant music of the band first be informed by going to The Burren comes to life visually too. It brings visitors Centre, where the wonders of this special on a musical treat, accompanying the band place will be uncovered. in both old and new incarnations. If you plan on visiting the Burren region in 2014, www.theburrencentre.ie www.bns.ie this exhibition is not to be missed. Contact 065-7088030 Contact 091- 637444/087-4129701

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What’s more, all of its creations have a truly personal touch. They are all made by hand in small batches, carefully blended and bottled on the premises in If you could bottle the same traditional way as they have been since its establishment in 1972. the essence of the The business has been family-run since day one. Its owners since 2001, Sadie Burren, what would Chowen and Ralph Doyle, are the third family to live and work on the premises, it be? Perhaps a described as a “privilege” by Sadie.

balanced blend of Sadie has an international background in perfume and design and she explained salty air mixed with what drew her to The Burren Perfumery. “I came first to work here and when the a hint of delicately opportunity arose to purchase the business, Ralph and I jumped at the scented wildflowers, chance to live and work within this unique environment and business.” or a tangy seaweed has been joined by many others, from Arnica Herbal Balm to Rose & Visitors can call “Our ethos is simple. We are committed Geranium soap to Lavender & Lemon aroma with back to designing and manufacturing natural, face cream. Visitors can call into the into the working organic and plant-based beauty products working factory, free of charge, any time “ notes of rocky soil? and carrying on our traditional expertise factory, free of of the year to see how these products are as an Irish perfume house. Providing concocted and chat to staff. Rachael Finucane sustainable and fulfilling local charge, any time employment is also important to us.” visited The Burren Ambling about the grounds, you can also of the year to stop in at the herb garden, learn about the The Burren Perfumery & Floral Centre business in an audiovisual presentation see how these Perfumery & Floral was one of the first tourist destinations to and browse in the shop. In high season, be established in the Burren and quickly you can enjoy a bite to eat and drink at products are Centre, to discover grew in reputation. Its Man of Aran the Organic Tea Rooms, where the stone fragrance was even carried in the 1970s concocted and building is draped with overhanging Ireland’s longest- by Irish airline, Aer Lingus, in the first plants. Food critic, Georgina Campbell, class section. Testament to its popularity, chat to staff.” has recommended the café. Sadie added established the product is still available today but it that 2014 marks a new chapter where the perfume house. perfumery “is running workshops and perfumery. The body and face care range We are committed talks to share our expertise”. The are made from natural and organic internationally known brand sells goods ingredients and all the products are to designing and online too and its organic lip balm packaged using glass, aluminium, “ garnered a Conde Naste Traveller Award recyclable plastic (PET) and recycled manufacturing for 2011. cardboard,” she said. natural, organic SWEET Shying away from mass manufacturing “Nearly two thirds of electricity and plant-based and sensitive to the location, the business consumed in the perfumery is supplied is also very eco-friendly. “All the by our own solar panels. The Tea Rooms beauty products.” products are made on site at the use local and organic ingredients SCENT OF wherever possible. We have onsite composting for all organic kitchen waste and over 90% of our inbound packaging is recycled/returned. The perfumery is easily accessed from the Carron Loop SUCCESS Walk and we welcome walkers and cyclists. We have bike racks and offer free shipping of products from the shop ucked away on a beautiful 10 acre for cyclists.” site near Carron, it crafts perfumes inspired by the Burren For Sadie and Ralph, the sweet smell of The Burren landscape and natural, organic success is just being a part of this special Tand plant-based creams, balms, place and they hope that it will carry for soaps and candles. The area is a perfumer’s generations to come. dream for its vast range of inspiration with Perfumery 70% of Ireland's wildflower species www.burrenperfumery.com located on its doorstep. Contact 065-7089102

18 | The Burren A unique visitor experience The Burren A unique visitor experience | 19 The Burren Naturally Yours Get Active The Burren TED’S ‘STEAD!

Glanquin House is tucked away on a winding road in a pretty valley against the backdrop of Slieve na Glasha and since 1995, this imposing Georgian-style building has been one of the Burren’s most famous landmarks—all thanks to Fr. Ted. Sinead Moran went behind the scenes in the ‘Craggy Island Parochial House’ to meet the real residents.

stories of her experiences with the cast homemade produce (using only organic Glanquin House and crew of the series, while we relax by ingredients), which includes warm the roaring fire. scones, wholesome brown bread, or those of you not familiar GET delectable desserts, sweet homemade with the Channel 4 television jams and organic tea. series, Crilly is an The occupants of Glanquin House have iconic comedy character and been organic and conservation farmers Though Fr. Ted officially finished in 1998, FGlanquin was his ‘home’ (or at least for over 20 years and following the it’s as popular as ever due to its cult status. the iconic exterior was). Today, there is fireside stories, we take a walk around Cheryl tells us that we’re in good no sign of Ted, Jack, Dougal or Mrs the farm with Pat. ACTIVE! company in Glanquin House as it has been Doyle, as the house is the real-life a destination of choice to many celebrities With hills and caves, the wild Atlantic home of the McCormack family. Pat gives a true impression of a land over the years including Hollywood steeped in culture and heritage. We see director, Steven Spielberg, no less. The lady of the house, Cheryl, hails from stone forts, cairns, fulacht fiadhs (ancient and tranquil lakes, a nature reserve Boston, and fell for Burren farmer, Pat. field kitchens), a holy well and even an Between the warm fire and good food, ancient church site, all of which come and national park all within its Life was relatively simple for the couple it’s hard to leave. As we make for the and their five children until Fr. Ted came with a full explanation of their history door, Cheryl tells us we’re more than territory, the Burren is an ideal spot calling. Glanquin House was one of many and place in the lives of past generations. welcome to come back, but advises that places and people in the locale featured. The farm stretches to 225 acres with she has just one rule: if anyone would for active pursuits, adventure A full house it may be, but tea is always some meadows and fields for growing like to come to tea in her kitchen, please on the menu, along with a warm North organic produce but is also home to call to make an appointment! activities and artistic endeavours. Clare welcome. No more than sheep, cows, goats and horses. housekeeper, Mrs Doyle, Cheryl is an attentive hostess who regales us with On our return to the house, we are www.fathertedshouse.com welcomed back to sample some of the Contact 087-9214694

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wild caves of the Burren as well as Activities can be guided hikes on the rugged hills around Burren Outdoor on or below the Ballyvaughan”. They offer bespoke “surface, on dry caving tours from beginner’s trips to advanced caving challenges. land or on The duo is keen to develop the next Activity & generation of outdoor enthusiasts and water, high or train as core members with Irish Cave low, but all Rescue as well as being active trainers in Adventure Trail the local caving club. promise a Respect for the environment is a driving knowledgeable force for the business. They adhere to the and professional Leave No Trace document produced by the Speleological Union of Ireland (SUI) guide to lead and have an ongoing involvement with cave conservation locally as active SUI the way.” members.

Backwest Adventures “We are caving guides. As such, the The Burren’s vast expanse of caves and business is relatively new (starting in health of the caves and the fragile hills, nooks and crannies can leave vistors April 2013) but cave exploration has ecosystems which they are part of are of wondering where to even start their long been a passion of theirs. Tim said: utmost importance to us,” Terry added. all promise a knowledgeable and exploration so Rosaleen Regan decided “As active cavers in the Burren area it “We are deeply aware of the privileged professional guide to lead the way. to dig a little deeper on a cave tour with was a natural progression to offer guided position we are in, to be guides here; and Terry Casserly and Tim O’Connell, co- tours in caves in the area.” of our responsibility to this place.” The events also offer plenty of variety. founders of Backwest Adventures. On June 20, there’s the Burren Sacred He described the core activity as offering www.backwestadventures.com (Holy) Wells Midsummer Walk. This is a Based at Loughrask, Ballyvaughan the “environmentally sensitive trips in the Contact 086-0563624 three hour folklore walk experience to The region’s many attractions are no the ancient wells in the Ballyvaughan valley. Deborah Evers of Nature’s secret but in order to ensure their Compass is the guide and it includes at a minimum. Adventure Burren is also a Adventure Burren Leave no Trace trainer. long-term sustainability, there is now ritual blessing and well wishing as well as lunch from Burren Kitchen Garden. Would you like to try an easy adventure in Rock climbing is an easy but enjoyable There are a number of packages available the Burren? If so, then Adventure Burren adventure—a very sociable pursuit in an initiative promoting responsible from Adventure Burren where you can On July 25, the Sea Kayak and Climb could be just what you're looking for, places of outstanding beauty. Walks are in interact with the Burren with very event run by Burren Outdoor Education offering hill walking and rock climbing all the lesser seen areas, which are still full of tourism— Burren Outdoor Activity & knowledgeable and qualified guides, who Centre will take you to the hidden places over the Burren. interesting sites. of the Burren—the untouched bays, the ensure your experience rewards your spirit Adventure. of adventure. cliffs and crags. On August 22, artist, Based in Carron, the team of motivated The activities can be thirsty work and the Doreen Drennan, will lead an oil painting outdoor enthusiasts will get you hands on business supplies water from its own well, www.adventureburren.com lesson, with the precise location to be his joint project between the something for everyone, from the ardent with the unique limestone landscape here. in reusable containers to keep energy use Contact 087-2244569 Burren & Cliffs of Moher adventurer to the naturalist, the budding decided according to the weather. Packages here are focused on quality and Geopark and the Burren artist to the adrenaline junkie. not quantity, so when taking part in Ecotourism Network aims to For more information on the Burren activities with Adventure Burren you get a Tpromote tourism that conserves the Activities can be on or below the surface, Outdoor Activity & Adventure Trail, more personal service. environment and improves the well- on dry land or on water, high or low, but visit www.burrenecotourism.com. being of local people. Adventure Burren is certified by Ecotourism Ireland and it caters for any size group from Up to 20 different local providers are one to eight, with no extras/supplements for involved and all members commit to small groups. They also offer visitors the building a sustainable future for the chance to explore some of the more remote region. They also commit to providing areas of the Burren. A day climbing with quality adventure and activity Adventure Burren can be anything from experiences, to the highest standards of an introduction to the sport, right up to the safety and instruction, which you can most challenging of cliff ascents. They enjoy in the company of qualified, cater to every level of fitness and ability experienced and professional guides. and whatever you choose, you can be assured of a unique and fulfilling The Burren Outdoor Activity & experience—how adventurous depends Adventure Trail runs a series of outdoor only on how courageous you yourself activity events on Fridays. It offers would like to be.

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hen you come across an organisation such as the Burren Outdoor Education Centre it is Wvery easy to get overwhelmed by all Heart of Burren Walks Immersive that they have to offer. A simple run down its activities list, which includes rock climbing, sea kayaking and hill walking, shows that you could spend a Learning week immersing yourself in the Burren, literally.

Set up in the 1980s, the Burren OEC Sinead Moran visits endeavours to provide fun, adventure and learning for visitors. The staff hopes to help participants to learn to live and work Burren Outdoor as a group and solve problems as a team. Sounds a bit idealistic? When you find Education Centre yourself crawling through a damp, dark cave it all starts to makes sense.

Caving is just one of the many activities I tried my hand at during my weekend in the Burren, but it is the one that will stick with me. Climbing down into the cave in the dark I briefly questioned what I was doing, but I chose to trust my guides. It was my first time in an underground cave, and despite it being a tad cold and wet, I was comfortable, if not at home. Such is the region’s diversity overground, it comes as quite a stark and awe-inspiring realisation to find that there is another alking guide, Tony The landscape Drawing on the fascinating history here, world going on beneath the surface: there Kirby, covers a lot of Tony specialises in pilgrimage walks. are literally hundreds of kilometres of ground in more ways looks so unusual; “The Burren is a rich pilgrimage caves underneath the limestone. that one when he unveils “it’s a rare thing landscape too. A lot of the archaeological Wthe hidden secrets of geology, sites survive because they’re made of archaeology, wildlife, flora and farming in the world to stone. There are lots of holy wells and in the Burren as he takes visitors early Christian churches.” Fun, adventure around this “rare and precious global see so much and learning for landform”. exposed rock.” Tony has put his journey, literal and metaphorical, to good use in his book, The “visitors.” He founded Heart of Burren Walks Burren and -A Walking around 12 years ago and is based in pastime has increased nationally and Guide. An updated edition is due in June , close to the Burren National globally but the Burren is a splendid 2014. As we traversed this particular section, I Park, where many of his walks take place. walking landscape,” Tony enthused. found myself moving with less trepidation He also runs walking and and actually learning quite a bit—one trip “I was a civil servant in Dublin, having This is perhaps why there are several accommodation packages in partnership providing me with a heady mix of physical returned from a career break in Italy and I other walking businesses such as Burren with the Wild Honey Inn in activity, history and practical geology. started doing guided walking tours in Experience Guided Walks and Burren Lisdoonvarna. Dublin in Italian. Then I decided to move to Wild Tours (see pg. 34). Tony described Apart from a hankering for a hot cup of the Burren for a new life and chose walking why the Burren is so special. Tony has a real passion for his work and tea, when we reached the end and returned tourism as a career. I think walking as a those accompanying him on his treks above ground, I found that this “The landscape looks so unusual; it’s a will soon share in that. experience had actually shown me the I just love rare thing in the world to see so much Burren in a whole new light. exposed rock. It’s not just a very unusual “I love meeting people from all over the world learning about Irish landscape but also abroad. It’s of and having such a fabulous landscape as my The OEC offers you another side of the international importance for the geology ‘office’, as it were. But most of all I just love Burren, all that you need to decide is from “ heritage and and the wild flowers; it’s one of the top learning about heritage and sharing knowledge which angle you'd like to see it. sharing botanical sites in the world and that’s no about heritage. It’s a really great journey of exaggeration. Thirdly, it’s an extremely knowledge.” knowledge rich archaeological landscape. These and www.burrenoec.com more are what’s compelling about it www.heartofburrenwalks.com Contact 065-7078066 about heritage.” internationally.” Contact 065 6827707/087-2925487

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“The pool complex is monitored by our team of fully trained lifeguards who are on hand for any eventuality, big or small. In our kiddies pool, young children can enjoy a safe environment removed from the Breaking Out main pool. At the same time the adults (over 16s) can enjoy the benefits of a relaxing time in the pool or other facilities. If you are interested in learning how to swim or in improving your technique, we Take host regular swimming lessons, both group and private one-to-one lessons, for children and adults.”

As part of recent developments at the centre, a multi-purpose hall has been added with a state of the art audio-visual a Leap! system, capable of showing movies, facilitating conferences and training/educational events. The hall can serve as a venue for concerts, plays and comedy gigs. Experienced staff organise both indoor and outdoor activities for birthday parties or any other kind of event, even if it’s just a family getaway. “The fun isn’t restricted to the younger Lahinch Adventures members of the family either. Visitors of all ages can walk on water in one of our For a long time, the wild Clare “The same applies with the adventure zorb balls or have a go at conquering one of our obstacle courses. For those who coastline has inspired adventurous sports. We are focused on introducing would prefer to unwind, facials, massage souls both into the water and on to the them in a safe enjoyable way, while or reflexology are all on offer in our brand hills. For any visitors to this rugged ensuring skills are developed in such a new therapy suite with our fully qualified stretch of Ireland, looking to tap into way as to ensure people can develop to Lahinch Seaworld & Leisure Centre therapist. If you’d like to feel the burn, our that spirit, look no further than whatever level they like. Coaching is air conditioned fitness centre has a wide Lahinch Adventures. done in small personal groups and focuses variety of cardiovascular and strength training equipment,” Joe said. Ben Bennett is Ireland’s longest- Situated in the heart of one of Ireland’s most beloved working surf coach and has been The team can help with individual fitness running his own surf school in Lahinch seaside towns, Lahinch Seaworld and Leisure Centre has goals and there is a full programme of since 2008, which expanded into an classes to cater for all interests including adventure centre in 2013. Tae Bo Thump, Aqua Fit, Yogalates and an attraction for every member of the family, all under Surf Fitness Training. We teach the one roof. Joe also emphasised that Lahinch Seaworld and Leisure Centre “partners surfing from uilt in 1996, on the former with two water-based adventure schools in “start to finish...” site of an outdoor pool and the area, Ocean Scene Surfing School and community hall dating back The Dive Academy scuba diving centre” to the 1950s, it was intended so there is a huge range of pursuits to pick As well as teaching surfers at every level, on participation and learning by doing.” Bto serve the community of Lahinch from. “Action-packed and fun-filled is Lahinch Adventures specialises in a Ben has experience working in adventure and surrounding areas, as well as the what we are about here,” he added. number of activities, including rock centres in Mayo, Donegal and Clare, he steady stream of tourists that visit climbing, archery, hillwalking, caving, holds many surfing qualifications and the town. Aside from being a big part of the community and making visitors feel kayaking and bike hire. recently added another string to his bow welcome, the centre has an with a Masters in Sports Psychology. The facility on the promenade boasts a environmentally friendly ethos so the The ethos that Ben applied in the surf As well as catering to a wide number of 25m indoor, heated swimming pool as well heating systems have recently been school is just as prevalent now that he has interests, Lahinch Adventures is regularly as a Jacuzzi, sauna, steam room and upgraded to use a renewable air to water broadened the scope of his business. involved in beach clean-ups, while also spacious, fully equipped fitness centre. heat pump. “We teach surfing from start to finish, not offering ‘Leave No Trace’ awareness Manager, Joe Garrihy, explained that the just jumping up and down on a board on programmes to local schools. centre provides “indoor family friendly the beach, and we never teach in groups leisure facilities plus educational elements www.lahinchseaworld.com of more than six people,” Ben explained. www.lahinchadventures.com to local and visiting schools”. Contact 065-7081900 Contact 086-8448622

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pecialising in guided sea kayaking tours up and down the rugged North Clare coastline, Sand based in Doolin, North Clare Sea Kayaking is the first company Burren Angling? of its kind in this spectacular area. I had the opportunity to join owner and Alan’s your man guide Patrick O’Regan on one of his most popular tours—Into the Wild Burren. Not TOURS only did Patrick have top of the range sit- in sea kayaks, he also provided an excellent kayaking tutorial before hand, DE FORCE which helped to put me at ease. The tour itself showcased the unique limestone of the Burren as well as a vast array of wild flowers and wildlife including a huge variety of sea birds. I also got a chance to get up close to some While the Burren is curious grey seals. It was a great way to spend the afternoon exploring the area famous for its karst from the tranquility of the sea. landscape and North Clare Sea Kayaking is run by local underground man Patrick and his wife Kelly. Together they have created great tours to suit waterways, it is also everyone. They offer participants the option of a full day trip or just a few blessed with bountiful hours on the water. From novice kayaker to the experienced, from birdwatcher to freshwater lakes. geologist or from nature lover to history buff, each of their tours is something to be experienced. escribed as “an angler’s how to cast a fly line and how to make practices are “the key to his long term If you’re not the seafaring type or simply paradise” by F. D. Barker in flies. This gift has endured and has success” and he combines principles of want to get the best of land and sea, there his 1928 memoir of the same provided many hours of enjoyment out ‘Leave no Trace’ with practical are guided cycling tours too. The mix of name, the lakes of the River in the open air,” he said. conservation policies to minimise its DFergus system hold lots of appeal for impact on the natural heritage. quiet back roads and trail cycling makes the avid, or amateur, angler. Burren “Having completed a degree in Heritage the Burren ideal for this activity. The Angling Guide, Alan Griffith, showed Studies as an adult student in 2012, I saw To quote Issac Walton: “Time spent fishing Bike & Brew and the Cycling & Rosaleen Regan how it’s done. a gap in the market for a guide service is not taken from your natural span” and Kayaking Adventure Combo are two with which could usefully combine my after a grand total of two trout caught and such expeditions. The River Fergus rises in the heart of skills and enthusiasm for the outdoors.” an afternoon spent on Lough , North Clare the Burren, flowing through seven lakes you can only agree. Growing up with a love of the outdoors, before it reaches Ennis town and tidal Burren Angling Guide—set up in July Patrick has travelled all over the globe water. It’s easy to see why the region has 2013—is based at Mohermoylan in [email protected] but he feels North Clare is home to “the earned a fine reputation as an angling Carron. His many interests make Alan a Contact 087-6566609 Sea Kayaking world’s most unique and diverse destination as we sit in a boat on the thoroughly engaging guide. The fact coastline”. Both he and Kelly are tranquil waters of Lough Inchiquin, about that he is also a trained lifeguard helps My uncle, Bill delighted that the location is also on the a kilometre outside Corofin village. shed any reserves about going out on world’s longest defined coastal route, the the water. Griffith, took me “Be Adventurous”. Just by their . Alan, whose knowledge of the waters “ and passion for fishing instil a strange “I’m really interested in establishing fishing on the slogan alone you know that when you go So get on the water with North Clare Sea mixture of calm and excitement all at links with Tonquédec—the town in river Shannon Kayaking and you might just be adopting once, has been practicing the past-time Brittany that is twinned with Corofin,” paddling with North Clare Sea Kayaking, “Be adventurous” as your own personal since childhood. he added, perhaps thinking about how at Plassey when motto! Brittany’s beautiful wild streams mirror you are in for just that— “My uncle, Bill Griffith, took me fishing those in North Clare. I was about 12 www.northclareseakayaking.com on the river Shannon at Plassey when I years old.” a real adventure, writes John Rowan Contact 085-1195489 was about 12 years old. He showed me Alan emphasised that sustainable

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as a professional artist and visitors are welcome to both the studio and gallery Doreen Drennan Art space. My special interest is painting the Burren and the wild Atlantic through the medium of oil on canvas,” Doreen said. Burren Yoga & Her art studio treats visitors to a myriad of exquisite paintings and prints, depicting all of the untamed splendour of the west of Ireland and the Wild Atlantic Meditation Centre Way alike.

One of her paintings has even been used as the cover for, A Week in Summer —a short story collection by the late, great, Maeve Binchy.

Doreen doesn’t just preserve scenes of the Burren through art; she’s also actively involved in its upkeep. She recently completed a course on sustainability and works with the Cliffs of Moher and Burren Geopark.

Doreen Drennan’s studio is open from March to October (although she is It isn’t often that you find a painter of Doreen Drennan trained at the esteemed contactable all year around) and is the natural world who truly captures the National College of Art and Design and definitely worth a visit from any art- living, breathing beauty of each scene as she has been painting for over 30 years, enthusiast or nature-lover. © Burren Yoga & Meditation Centre well as this. setting up her studio in 2011. “I am now in a position to paint full time www.doreendrennan.com Contact 087-9303755 f your normal day sees you stuck surfing, kayaking or hill walking and a limestone pavement. I found it totally inside four walls, and you long to get host of other activities can be exhilarating to get out in the fresh air and out and about, we’ve found the incorporated into your retreat. practice yoga on the rocks of the Burren specialists accompany tour groups. With escape for you. Orlaith Howley took looking out across the Atlantic Ocean. geologist, David Drew, guiding us, I felt I Burren Journey a stress-relieving trip to North Clare. Owner, Dave, is also delighted to guide quite unafraid to get my hands dirty! I visits to local attractions or you can take Over my weekend stay I had a chance was so captivated by the landscape and and Nelleke McGrath began would be cycling first and then walking During the week, a colleague said to me a boat trip to see the Cliffs of Moher. to meet some great people. The centre’s his fascinating in-depth knowledge that I their micro-tour business in 2013 and off-road. The McGraths and other that there's more to life than sitting in the Everything is optional and Dave is as chef, Paddi, spoiled us with some when hearing them talk about this instantly regretted not signing up for one happy welcoming people who would amazing vegetarian meals and I found of the two-day or week-long holiday office from 9 to 5. Now, a weekend in culturally and historically enriched area, just like to come and put their feet up myself completely winding down. I had packages. the Burren Yoga Centre has convinced their passion for the Burren is infectious, Great rewards to me. We all have a tendency to get with a book. an experience second to none and I left writes Aisling Brennan . be gained in a Burren Journey provides outings with swallowed up with life, but here I had mindful of the need for time for myself, true purpose and I was thoroughly time to refocus on what’s important. As a For my part, I had the chance to go something that I had been missing for “We are creating a business for ourselves “journey into kayaking and take a guided hill walk a while. energised by the experience. newcomer to yoga, I was relieved to find and in collaboration with neighbours and along with a couple of yoga sessions, one landscape and that the weekend and week-long retreat www.burrenyoga.com friends that celebrates the Burren and of which took place outdoors on the www.burrenjourney.com holidays are suitable for absolute Contact 091-637680 enables us to continue to live in a community.” Contact 065-6837555 beautiful place and to do the things that beginners as well as regular practitioners. we enjoy," they enthused, from their base © Burren Yoga & Meditation Centre at Riverstown Cottage in Corofin. Situated just outside Kinvara, at the northern tip of the Burren, the Burren “There are great rewards to be gained in Yoga Centre has a comfy, cosy and a journey into landscape and community friendly feel from the moment you that does not travel very far. We invite our arrive. Tucked away in fantastic guests to find out more about an aspect surrounds, you instantly get the of culture or the environment that really impression that you are the most interests them or take the opportunity to important person there. There may have learn something entirely new,” been over a dozen other people arriving over the course of the weekend, but I still Participants can gain insight into areas felt like this was all for me. like botany, geology, caving, foraging, archaeology, gardening, herbalism and There are over 40 retreat holidays all more. year round—from January to December—including Christmas and Before setting out for the day, my fellow New Year. Though these breaks are tourists and I were informed that we organised with relaxation in mind, 30 | The Burren A unique visitor experience A unique visitor experience The Burren | 31 The Burren Get Active Get Active The Burren

Situated in a On the road less travelled with Burren Coaches natural bogland In 1975, the idea of ‘moving’ people Basking “setting, The through the amazing Burren landscape was the seed which has Boghill Centre blossomed into the personable and conscientious transport business that at Bo ghill hosts courses, is Burren Coaches today. events and A vast knowledge of places to visit and conferences people to meet coupled with their own love for the Burren’s unique floral, focusing on geological and historical offerings tra leaves the folks at Burren Coaches ditional Irish with a constant appreciation for where music, holistic they live.

workshops and Owner, Brian Farrell and his team are experienced in tailoring journeys and eco-training tours to the needs or interests of any type activities.” of group regardless of size. For many reasons, a call to Burren Coaches is a ecotourism partners in the Burren and eating places. The wealth of experience beyond. Their intimate knowledge of the at Burren Coaches will go a long way ‘Interacting with Nature’ Tour (half/full perfect starting point for arranging a trip area, the terrain and the visitor towards your enjoyment. day). This theme can be also be extended to this limestone wonderland. experiences available will lead to well to one of the week-long holidays like the In particular, they specialise in combining researched itineraries built around your ‘Boghill Eco Experience Week’. selections of holiday and activity specific requirements and interests taking www.burrencoaches.com experiences offered through other in the best sites, walks, activities and Contact 065-7078009/086-2520971 This package gets you in touch with nature and what it means to live in a sustainable fashion. We began by touring the expansive grounds, including the Based in Kilfenora and run by Janet without being in a car or a coach,” Janet If you want to spend some time mini-farm, where the ingredients for our Cavanagh, E-Whizz operates small group outlined. meals are sourced. All around us the E-Whizz Tours tours on high quality electric bikes in the away from it all, then The Boghill centre’s ‘reduce, reuse, recycle’ mantra What better way to soak up the serene Burren to sightsee “the easier way”. In 2012, she set up her own business is apparent. Having built up an appetite, atmosphere and see the iconic scenery providing electric bike tours, hire and Centre in Kilfenora could be for you. we returned to the centre for our in the Burren than by bicycle? As the “After working with bike tour companies sales. Since then its stress-free sightseeing vegetarian lunch. Mark O’Halloran went to see if this wind blows through your hair and your for eight seasons, I saw the opportunity to has become a hit with visitors—gaining a ears are filled with birdsong, offer a solution—especially to the older or five star rating from respected tourist After lunch, I tried my hand at some really is the perfect place to unwind. non bike enthusiast, who struggles with review website, Trip Advisor. sustainable building practices, saw clay E-Whizz Tours can make sure you see hills and headwinds, but still wants to processing and pot building and rounded as much as possible with ease. enjoy the scenery and see the landmarks E-Whizz Tours can provide tailored tours music, holistic workshops and eco- the day off with a meditative walk. from one to six days anywhere on the west training activities. Despite being away from the hustle and coast of Ireland, providing everything you bustle, staff regularly arrange evening need for safe sightseeing such as helmets The centre was established by friends— minibus trips to the locality and provide and maps too. Options include the Father Sonja O’Brien, Larry O’Brien, Cari Ryan information on things to see and do. It Ted Trail, the Dolmen Tour and the Cliffs and John Harrison in 1993, and today it also runs a diverse programme for school of Moher Tour. Groups are capped at a is run by Sonja, Cari and John with the students. maximum of eight people. help of an ever changing team of working guests from all over the world. The Boghill Centre has anewly built E-Whizz is the only company offering workshop hall with aturf roof and wood electric bike tours in Clare and this method The complex is set on 50 acres gasification stove. The venue is available to he self-styled residential is distinctive as well as sustainable. of land on which the owners cultivate hire for avariety of uses and you can stay holistic eco-venue is as much organic vegetable and fruit gardens, a over in either ahostel or B&B capacity. “We have just joined together with a about immersing yourself into nature trail, a stone circle, a wildlife number of similar businesses in Donegal T activities as well as relaxing pond, a reed labyrinth, a chicken coop, However many of the myriad of /Sligo, Leitrim, Mayo, Connemara and and the combination works an orchard and native woodland areas. activities you take part in at the Boghill Slane to offer cross-Ireland and Wild wonderfully. Centre, you will leave stimulated and Atlantic Way tour packages,” she Workshops offered here range from yoga reinvigorated. concluded. Situated in a natural bogland setting, The to sustainable building techniques to Boghill Centre hosts courses, events and ceramics—something to suit every Visit www.boghill.com www.e-whizz.com conferences focusing on traditional Irish personality. A great option is the Contact 065-7074644 Contact 065-7088281/087-6277000

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Burren Experience Guided Walks

Marie McGauran lives in the heart of the Burren. With Mullaghmore mountain on In every walk one side, and a lake on the other, she is with nature one perfectly placed to give visitors the full Burren experience. “receives far more FOOD &DRINK Marie abides by the John Muir quote, “In than he seeks.” every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks”, and she hopes that walkers will gain from all that this she gained during the completion of an HEAVEN ! inimitable terrain offers. honours degree in Heritage Studies. Marie Mullaghmore Experience Guided Walks also offers accommodation in the Burren take in some of the more remote and National Park for those who want to beautiful parts of the Mountain within the enrich and deepen their experience. Burren National Park. The walks are very Burren Cottage, stunningly situated, much about engagement and include literally on the doorstep of Mullaghmore insight and interpretation on the historical Mountain, presents a comfortable, self- and spiritual landmarks, botany, geology, catering option and the perfect base for and farming of the area. walking in the national park, be it invigorating or relaxing! Marie’s love and passion for her local area www.mullaghmore-burren.com is enhanced by the in-depth knowledge Contact 086-8219441

series, Secrets of the Irish Landscape , Burren Wild Tours and he reveals quite a few secrets about While his forefathers were farmers, John continents. The walking tours are both the magical landscape, culture and Connolly is now utilising the family land “fun and educational” due to his people of the Burren. for a different purpose—uncovering the familiarity with the terrain and endless From start to finish, this tour is an wonders of the Burren to visitors as the enthusiasm. He also worked on cultural enriching trip through history and nature. only walking guide in Ireland giving and recreational programmes in Alaska Ideal for first time hikers and the more tours on his own land. for two years, as well as offering guided experienced, Helly Hansen raingear and walking tours on Kodiak Island. hiking sticks are provided free of charge. Operating from a 300 year old family Car-parking and toilets are available and farm at the foot of the Burren Mountains “I feel that Burren Wild’s responsibility,” after a few hours trekking, tours have a in Oughtmama, John founded Burren he outlined, “is to the development of a sweet ending with Granny’s Farmhouse Wild Tours in 2003, shortly after product that has a positive influence on Café and Hazel Mountain Chocolates finishing a degree in Irish Heritage. the community, the natural environment, based on-site too. From a young age, John explored the rural economics and the consumer.” local area and developed an adventurers’ www.burrenwalks.com spirit, which has taken him to several John was featured on the RTÉ television Contact 087-8779565

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The Burren Food At the foot of the Trail is more than Burren Mountains, “a listing of Kasha and John Hazel Mountain Burren quality food Connolly run a 300 establishments in year old family farm Chocolate Dream Food Trail the area, however. with a difference It actively invites where instead of you to discover the planting and path that your ploughing, you’re food takes from more likely to see field to plate.” happy visitors digging into luscious Trail Signature Dish and every member offers a ‘Customer Promise’, which is that chocolate creations. visitors will find staff who are knowledgeable about the regional food Rebecca McNamara story; menus which state the source of local produce; information on local food met head chocolatier, events and markets as well as a Kasha, to get a taste commitment to maximise the use of local ingredients in all prepared food. of Hazel Mountain

The Burren Food Trail is more than a Chocolates. listing of quality food establishments in the area, however. It actively invites you he boutique chocolate factory to discover the path that your food takes and shop in the village of from field to plate. If you decide to follow Oughtmama offers a one-off the trail, you can stop at every point or experience in the west, probably else dip in and out along the way, Tin the whole of Ireland, to Kasha’s according to your taste, interest and knowledge. location. You can even plan your route with a handy leaflet and app. “Hazel Mountain is unique because visitors can see how chocolates and Members and friends of the Burren Food truffles are made in a traditional way Blazing a trail for high quality food from the Trail run special food-themed events on and you can purchase chocolate whilst Mondays from Easter to October. it’s being made in front of you. All Burren region is a dedicated group of local There is great variety. On June 16, there’s chocolates are produced in small batches the Electric Bike Food Experience, where with only natural ingredients. There are producers and food service businesses. you visit the to taste no artificial pastes, flavours or colours,” some award-winning Burren Smoked she explained. Collectively, they form the Burren Food Trail. Salmon before travelling by e-bike to They are all committed to building a sustainable Burren Free Range Pork and then onto St. “The flavours are being created from Tola Organic Goat farm to sample their blending natural produce of the Burren They renovated the farmhouse and there, traditions. Making chocolates was part of future for the region and passionate about local fare. On June 30, there’s a Wild Food such as juniper berries or flower petals she cultivated her love for cooking. She my baking experience and in 2011, I did Cookery Demo and Supper by the Sea with highest quality chocolate. It’s is in the third generation of keen bakers my first chocolate making course.” food—growing, producing and serving it to the hosted by Wild Kitchen. These experts in operated from fully eco grass roofed and with the Burren’s beauty being Kasha trained with some of the world’s highest of standards. foraging will give an al-fresco cookery building, which is the only one in the reminiscent of her homeplace, she put top chocolatiers and she added that “our demonstration and discuss the health Burren.” that synergy to good use. inspiration comes from our beautiful benefits of seaweed. On August 4, there’s surroundings and our world travels to oing from strength to wild honey, as well as artisan pastries a Food Safari and barbeque at Burren The saying ‘life is like a box of Hot drinks and treats from Kasha’s own Alaska, Argentina, Norway and Iceland”. strength, the Burren Food and chocolate. Free Range Pork Farm. chocolates’ certainly rings true for Kasha. cookbook, Burren Wild Baker , are served Her range of moreish chocolate truffles, Trail has well over 20 Originally from Poland, she came to in the Farmhouse Café on the grounds too. pralines and bars reflects the wealth of members including Local food service businesses are also Ireland in 2007. She left the corporate knowledge she gained. G highly involved, sourcing and serving the “The book, published in late 2013, producers of organic pork and goats See www.burrenecotourism.com for sphere in Dublin to move to Clare to run cheese, grass-fed lamb and fresh local best of this local produce. Each of the more information on the Burren hiking tours with John (whose business is includes my own recipes with funky www.hazelmountainchocolates.com seafood, organic herbs and vegetables, featured restaurants offers a Burren Food Food Trail. based on-site too). photos of the Burren, stories and Contact 087-9903000

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The other is the Roadhouse Tavern, which has been in Peter’s family for over a century.

“We are fanatical about our businesses in the Burren,” enthused Birgitta, “We are spoiled with our location here. I mean, how many people can say that when they go to work in the morning they are doing so in an area of jaw-dropping beauty such as this? Sometimes you forget this, but when visitors come and speak to us, we are reminded of just how lucky we are.”

This gives them the motivation they need and every product is a labour of love. “We want high standards for our customers, so we carefully source our raw materials for the Burren Smoked Salmon, Trout, Mackerel and Cheese. We control our own quality standards with backup of regular testing from independent laboratories and regular checks from organisations who certify us.”

“The smokehouse currently employs 17 and our products are stocked in Irish YOU HERD IT HERE... speciality food shops around the world in stores such as Fortnum & Mason, London; KaDeWe, Berlin and Dean & St Tola Irish Goats Cheese Deluca, USA and Kuwait. While we are delighted to have set this precedent, we Food want to keep it up,” she explained For those of us to whom food is not just a means of sustenance And their many accolades demonstrate this. but rather a passion that warrants exploration, there is a gem to of Love be found in the market town of Ennistymon. John Hogan got an We carefully education in the award-winning St Tola Irish Goats Cheese. source our raw “ he cheese has been produced examination was recently carried out on Since Siobhán took over the business, it materials.” by Farmhouse Cheese all aspects of the farm’s fuel, light and has gained national and international Burren since the early 1980s. A former water consumption as part of the recognition, including the Supreme schoolteacher, Siobhan Ní business’s commitment to conservation. Champion accolade at the 2013 Irish TGhairbhith, bought it from the original Cheese Awards. The business has gone The Burren Smokehouse tally of awards owners, the Gordons, in 1999—having “We believe passionately in sustainable from being a cottage industry to a leading Smokehouse over the years includes The Seafood worked on the farm during her farming to produce the finest quality brand in Irish artisan cheese. Exporter Award in 2009; numerous gold holidays for several years. artisan goat milk cheese. It’s something that n first meeting, it's easy medals in the Great Taste and Blas na is good long-term for the land and all those Two constant features throughout all Birgitta and Peter to see what drew them hÉireann awards and a Bord Bia Organic She has an obvious passion, not only for that inhabit it, whether that’s humans, these changes has been the fine, together. They share an Award. Birgitta is also a member of Bord her artisan produce, but also for the truly animals, insects or birds. We are passionate consistent quality of St. Tola and the have a appetite for business that, Bia’s Taste Council. green manner in which it is produced. An about providing food that is healthy for commitment to sustainability. Oover the past 24 years, has seen them those that eat it,” said Siobhán. Developing the unique visitor experience fervent interest in succeed at every level. This passion is Never complacent, this dynamic couple to Inagh Farm house gives another two things—good evident through a commitment to won’t rest on their achievements and We believe She has recently opened an dimension to an already flourishing home- quality that has garnered local, “want the best for customers”. passionately in ÉCONOMUSÉE information and grown business. food and the Burren. national and international recognition interpretative centre on the farm, to allow and has made them an obligatory stop “We need to continue coming up with “sustainable guests to get a real insight into what is on Siobhán added that “everyone who We met the couple for visitors touring the Burren region. new ideas and trying new things. It has offer and how it is produced. comes here is invited to see our farm, get led to nothing but positive changes in the farming to close to our beautiful animals, taste all who have made a Their love of the Burren and all that it past so why should we stop now?” “We are also happy to provide our cheeses and get a good understanding has to offer is obvious and chatting with produce the finest employment in rural Ireland and to use of our business”. success story out of them in their Lisdoonvarna Smokehouse, quality artisan local suppliers to help keep money in the it is abundantly clear that this is at the www.burrensmokehouse.ie local economy so that it may not just www.st-tola.ie producing fine fare. heart of their two thriving businesses. Contact 065-7074432 goat milk cheese.” survive but thrive.” Contact 065-6836633

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and make a point to not overstock so that the pigs have the best conditions at all times. The pigs are outdoors all the time, which allows them to develop a good hide, which in turn leads to a much better HOG crackling when roasting the meat. The pigs are reared in the best possible environment with extensive fields to roam and root in and a warm comfortable WILD! shed to retreat to in bad weather. Farm visits are by appointment only but the Hegartys run Food Safaris in conjunction with the Burren Food and Activity Trail too.

Stephen added that they also offer Burren Free visitors to stay overnight “in a quirky Range Pork converted farm type abode”. “They can spend some time in a relaxing environment where the only noise is the As I pull up in Eva and Stephen Hegarty’s whey, which we get from the local birds or the animals, and the only light at Kilfenora farm, I am greeted by a unique cheese maker, and they eat fruit and night is the moon and the stars. In the picture. It’s feeding time and the vegetables along with grass and roots. morning, you get to pick your own fresh Saddleback and Tamworth pigs are getting All of this leads to them being super hen or duck eggs for your breakfast. You boisterous as they wait for their dinner. healthy and so far none of our pigs have will be all set for your day’s exploring of Wild ever needed conventional medication.” the beautiful Burren!” “Happy pigs produce delicious meat,” quipped Stephen,“And these pigs are The Hegartys have had a small herd of www.burrenfreerangepork.com Kitchen happy. They are fed the best of feed and free range, rare breed pigs since 2007, Contact 086-8815974 At Linnalla Farm, Bríd and Roger Fahy locally produced goods like preserves too. ice cream I've ever tasted. Let Ben and have a proper menagerie with two dogs, “There is nothing better than seeing a Jerry get up the yard.” There are about 8,000 edible plants available globally two cats and three children, Marie, family leave here after taking the tour of Padraig and Tomás. They also have 43 our farm and then head off somewhere Linnalla incorporates fun, fine produce but most of us only eat a tiny fraction of that number. seaweed-guzzling cows. This bustling with a picnic full of our goodies. It's not and stunning scenery in one fell scoop. farm is where Linnalla Ice Cream only the children who leave with a smile Oonagh O’Dwyer, the owner of Wild Kitchen, encourages products are made. on their faces.” The Fahys are consumed by their enthusiasm John McKenna of the Bridgestone Guides www.linnallaicecream.ie people to broaden their palates by taking them on wild for ice cream, since starting in 2006. said of Linnalla: “The highest quality Contact 065-7078167/087-7857569 “We started making some simple flavours food walks and hosting picnics on land and seashore. but we quickly saw that the only limit to what we could do was our imagination. onagh started the business in She has studied plants all her life, including addressed through wild food. I delight in Now, we forage for as many ingredients Linnalla Pure Irish Ice Cream 2012 and now regularly a course in Organic Horticulture at An taking people on a journey of discovery as we can and try and follow what is in brings groups foraging tIonad Glas (The Organic College) in during our foraging expeditions.” season,” Bríd explained. around the Lahinch area, in Dromcollogher, Co. Limerick. She is also a Osearch of many edible types of seaweed, partner with ‘Leave No Trace’ Ireland, an Sometimes, Oonagh’s expeditions can Linnalla Ice Cream can now be found in stores wild herbs, roots, flowers, fruits and organisation that promotes the responsible even produce some unexpected treats, such nationwide and was recently named as one of nuts. As part of the experience, cookery recreational use of the Irish outdoors. as catching sight of a family of seals that the 50 secrets of the Wild Atlantic Way. demonstrations are put on and frequents her local beach. “We also make unusual flavours for our participants learn about plant “I started Wild Kitchen because of a desire own café. Many of our customers like to identification and how to forage to turn my knowledge and passion for She promotes sustainability in her return and see what different flavour we sustainably. She also produces organic growing and producing good food into a community and facilitated a recent have on display today. These include wild salads and preserves using wild edibles. sustainable business,” continued Oonagh. workshop, during which a quarter acre of lavender and vanilla, sloe gin or wild marginal land was planted with bio-mass Burren hazelnut. People like to eat our ice “I’ve been an avid forager since childhood, “Our bodies have evolved over tens of willow for fuel logs that will be used for cream and have a coffee while enjoying the growing up in the shade of the Galtee thousands of years to deal with a varied diet burning, replanting and educational stunning views of the Finnavara Peninsula, Mountains in Tipperary. Finding, cooking of hundreds of plants but modern living can purposes. the Burren and Galway Bay. We don't see it and using wild food remains to his day one often leave us with less than 20 plant as work really. It is our business and we of my most joyful experiences,” said sources of food, much of which is love what we do,” Roger added. Oonagh, who runs Wild Kitchen from processed. So many of us have a nutri tional www.wildkitchen.ie They make their own baked goods and sell Callura South in Lahinch. deficit and a taste deficit, and this can all be Contact 065-7081458/087-6877890

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Burren Fine Wine and Food

We use organic methods to “produce food in season, capturing the taste of the food at its best.”

Delicious! Clareville House Cathleen Connole’s charming little restaurant is in an Kitchen Garden idyllic location in a century old stone coach house, nestled lareville House Kitchen Garden', which can be found at the the unique ecology, flora and fauna. Garden is a member of the Ballyaughan Farmers Market on Foraging is also an aspect of the walks. between the enchanted hills of the Burren. Burren Food Trail. Situated on Saturdays or in Sheridan’s Chesemongers the Wild Atlantic Way, in all year round. "Finding food is also part of what we do. CBallyvaughan, Co. Clare, the garden is Being so close to the Burren, we do have urren Fine Wine and Food is She personally sources the wine from small an option for people to take part in some based on the grounds of the Good wine and in a walled orchard that is being slowly “We use organic methods to produce food independent European growers, who are woodland and Burren foraging where former parochial house of dedicated to producing good quality wines restored. in season, capturing the taste of the food simple food at its best” said Deborah Evers of they will look for wild foods, such as Glenaragh Church, two miles using traditional methods and respecting Clareville House. hazelnuts, blackberries and sloes. These Bsouth of Ballyvaughan village on the the land on which the vines grow. “served in a They grow a wide range of seasonal are real hands-on experiences and give Corkscrew Hill road. Self–guided cycling trips can be arranged vegetables, fruit and herbs, with the raw contemporary ingredients appearing on the table in the The kitchen garden developed from a visitors a chance to get a genuine feel for here, with the option of lunch in-house or nat ural interest in the land, she explained. what we do,” Deborah added. Set in what is often described as a little packed lunch included. way is the ethos kitchen and used to produce their artisan range of preserves, 'Bur ren Kitchen “We wished to grow our own food to reduce “oasis”, good wine and simple food served in behind this carbon miles, improve the nutrition of what “Observation is key and you will be a contemporary way is the ethos behind this “A guided walking tour of the majestic we eat and generally use the resources that encouraged to record with your eyes, charming, casual, daytime eatery. Enjoying Rathbourney valley takes place twice charming, are available to us. Seasonal variety is camera or sketchbook. Recipes are lunch, afternoon tea/coffee or of course, a weekly from Burren Fine Wine and Food interesting to produce and eat. With the provided.” glass of wine in this beautifully restored 1795 (Wednesdays at 11am and Thursdays at casual, daytime excess, from the garden, we produce building, steeped in history and full of 4pm). This valley is rich in antiquities eatery.” preserves using our fruit and vegetables. As For more information contact Deborah character, is truly one of the experiences of including the ring fort of Dun Torpa, a the produce is literally out of the ground or Evers. Email booking is essential and the rural Ireland which is not to be missed. medieval ecclesiastical site, an 18th century is a package including a walk with lunch or off the bush, the taste is great.” walks run all year, except August and church and a deserted village. Other afternoon tea for €20. Other days and times September. “Fresh local produce is lovingly prepared and highlights include stunning examples of the may be available by prior arrangement There is more than food on offer from served with good old style hospitality in region’s limestone pavement and the world (groups of between five and 10 people Clareville House. It offers guided walks relaxed and peaceful surroundings. You can famous mix of wildflowers,” she added. desirable). on the Burren limestone and along the choose to eat either indoors or outdoors, Burren shoreline. Deborah shows surrounded by the gardens that produce some The walk itself is at an easy pace and lasts www.burrenwine.ie participants how to use ancient landscape www.burrenkitchengarden.com of the food on your plate,” said Cathleen. two hours. The cost is €12.50 p.p. or there contact 087-7633241 navigation techniques, while highlighting Contact 086-8038477

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At Wild Honey, our philosophy “ is to choose the best produce possible and to cook it simply to highlight the taste and natural goodness of the ingredients.”

Simply scanning the menu and specials in the relaxed atmosphere of the inn, a home- grown presence is strongly felt. Local seafood and produce from named suppliers nearby features prominently. Whether sampling the best of what’s caught from the sea or cultivated on land, the food is superb. The Roadside Tavern

Though the inn incorporates a bar, the eter Curtin, he of the Burren Wild Honey Inn Smokehouse (pg 38), is heavily dishes Aidan creates are far removed from typical ‘pub grub’. Wild Honey embodies linked with music in the Burren region. The Roadside Tavern in modern bistro cooking more than some PLisdoonvarna is well known for its standalone eateries. traditional Irish sessions and Peter is side from offering delectable, possible enables us to cook with the seasons very proud of this. A perfect blend award-winning fare, it has a and also helps the sustainability of the local Aidan’s 30 years of experience in the wealth of old world charm producers.” hospitality industry meant that they had “We hope that to the visitor, this is the most of contemporary and character, including open their formula right from the start. He was laid back, full of craic, pub on their Alog fires, a walled garden and 14 cosy Acutely aware of their surroundings, they named as Georgina Campbell’s Ireland trip. However, this doesn't just happen by bedrooms. and traditional also strive for sustainable practices in all Guide ‘Chef of the Year’ in 2012. accident and behind the scenes we go out of facets of the business. our way to ensure we hit this mark,” he said. in the unique Husband and wife team, Aidan and Kate, Among the many awards are two AA opened Wild Honey in May 2009, after a rosettes for food and a Michelin Bib “During the summer months, despite the setting of the major refurbishment. Prior to that Aidan Gourmand since 2010 (this accolade from weather, we have crowds coming from near worked as a chef in Clare but the rugged the Michelin Guide is awarded for “good and far and the bar can be as full of locals as Burren, Wild beauty and unspoilt landscape of the North food at moderate prices”). To add to that, it is with tourists, all coming to soak up the of the county drew them here. Wild Honey won a Clare Business nightly traditional music.” Honey Inn is Excellence Award in 2012 and 2013. “At Wild Honey, our philosophy is to We've had Christy Moore, Davy Spillane, owned and run choose the best produce possible and to After a gourmet dinner, guests can retire Tommy Peoples, the Fureys, Seán Tyrrell, cook it simply to highlight the taste and to the garden, homely lounge or their four Christy Barry, Micko Russell, Mickaleen Peter quickly realised how complicated and by the McGrath natural goodness of the ingredients,” Aidan star guesthouse accommodation. Conlon, Paul Dooley, Sharon Shannon and time consuming it was to brew his own beer explained. a lot more musicians of note in the so he hired a master brewer. The result was three signature flavours—Burren Gold, family . Providing “warm hospitality” to the highest Roadside, and we hope to add to this long Burren Red and Burren Black—all of which “We are fortunate to live and work on the standards and “continually exceeding list,” he enthusiastically added. are served here. North West coast of Clare. It’s an area expectations” is the McGrath’s ultimate aim The Roadside also serves up contemporary where many small producers are dedicated and with Wild Honey Inn, they are meeting cuisine in the bar and on-site eatery but the With everything needed to eat, drink and be to cultivating the very best of seasonal that goal with room to spare. drinks menu is exceptionally varied too. In merry under one roof, the Roadside Tavern produce. By connecting directly with the spring 2011, Peter set up the Burren has a secret recipe, which has been decades producers, we can ensure that the food we Brewery in the Roadside. The building, in the making. serve is grown and raised to the highest which started off as a pub in 1865, was possible standards. Using these meats, fish, www.wildhoneyinn.com expanded into a bakery but now also has a www.roadsidetavern.ie cheese, fruits and vegetables as much as Contact 065-7074300 microbrewery under its roof! Contact 065-7074084

44 | The Burren A unique visitor experience A unique visitor experience The Burren | 45 The Burren Food & Drink Food & Drink The Burren

John and Martina Sheedy run We grow lots a quality business offering of herbs and “vegetables in the very best in service, our own herb accommodation garden.” and food.

Sheedy's Hotel & Linnane's Lobster Bar or a relaxing time-out from your Linnane’s uses Restaurant Burren explorations and adventures, Linnane’s Lobster fresh, seasonal, Bar is the perfect place to rest “ Fweary limbs, satisfy appetites and local produce. heedy’s Hotel and Restaurant in career as a chef, he has worked in high renew your energy. Lisdoonvarna carries four stars, profile restaurants including Plaza Athénée There is particular yet still manages to maintain the in Paris, Longueville House in Mallow and Overlooking the Atlantic sea in New charm and intimacy of a family- Ashford Castle. Throughout this time he has There are two dining options at Sheedy's, Quay, a stroll from The Flaggy Shore, the emphasis on Srun hotel. The house is an old always held dear the conviction that the best an a la carte menu, served in the proprieters are Vincent Graham and seafood where we farmhouse and has been in the Sheedy of food should be enjoyed at a moderate restaurant, or a bar menu, served in the Eileen Finn-Graham. family since mid 1700s. It has been a hotel price, in a relaxed comfortable environment. cosy bar. source as much since the 1930s but the couple bought the Included in the Michelin Guide for pubs, hotel from John’s parents in 1998. His flair has seen the restaurant awarded Both menus are heavily reliant on local Linnane’s promises a warm welcome and as p ossible from dishes such as the best of lamb, pork, beef delicious home-cooked food that comes Both Martina and John come from illustrious two Rosettes from AA Ireland, is also and fish. Almost every element on the recommended by food critic, Georgina Gerry Sweeney hotel careers and this experience has melded included in the Bridgestone Guide 100 Best menus in Sheedy's is sourced locally. Campbell. Sheedy’s into the establishment it is today. Places and has a Trip Advisor Award of Breads, jams, marmalades and ice-creams whose boat you We have received In the kitchen, John is in charge. During his Excellence for 2014. are also all made on the premises by John “Linnane’s uses fresh, seasonal, local can see leaving an eco label from and his team. produce. There is particular emphasis on seafood where we source as much as from the pier “ possible from Gerry Sweeney whose boat Green Hospitality “We have received an eco label from Green Hospitality Ireland. We have a you can see leaving from the pier each each morning.” Ireland. We have policy of sourcing as much produce for morning. Smoked Salmon is sourced a policy of the restaurant locally and have always from Kinvara Smoked Salmon, cheese supported local suppliers. We grow lots of from St Tola and salads from Donocha Vincent has worked in the hospitality sourcing as much herbs and vegetables in our own herb Fahy up the road in Finavarra. Our lobster business for years and it shows when you garden,” Martina explained. literally comes from the sea to order. We step into Linnane’s Lobster Bar. produce for the include meat and vegetarian dishes on our Added to the award-winning bar and menu too,” Eileen enthused. “We are part of the Burren Food Trail and restaurant locally restaurant, there are 11 well-appointed we have a particular interest in meeting and have always rooms, which has seen Sheedy’s named in “From a pub perspective, we have a good visitors and suggesting walks or sites in the Top 25 small hotels and top 25 local trade so that there is always a buzz the area or places to stay etc,” Eileen romantic hotels in Ireland by Trip Advisor. around the bar. Also there is a tradition of chipped in. supported local music in the area so local musicians suppliers.” having a session isn’t unusual. Weather www.sheedys.com permitting, there is outdoor seating with www.linnanesbar.com Contact 065-7074026 wonderful views and a sea breeze.” Contact 065-7078120/087-4188697

46 | The Burren A unique visitor experience A unique visitor experience The Burren | 47 The Burren Food & Drink Places to Stay The Burren

popped in for a coffee and ended up chat ting to local matchmaker, Willie Daly, and joining in an impromptu traditional music session.

“It’s quite a thing to witness the music swell from just one or two musicians to a mini-orchestra as more and more join in,” said Kerstin.

This house is synonymous with its ‘Burren Béilíní’—“a snack or little meal of Irish origin, derived from Gaelic noun béile meaning ‘meal’.” Mary creates these bite- size tastes using local, seasonal and wild foods embodied with the heart of the Burren and serves them with a smile and a ‘Céad míle fáilte!’ It is on the Burren Food The locals tell me that they love to come Trail and the Burren Weekly Food Series, here but sometimes it’s hard to tell who is Kilshanny which has special themed food events take visiting as everyone chats to each other… place every Monday in the Burren. House there’s no television! Located halfway between Ennistymon and Kilshanny House is a little family-owned There will always be banter between the Lisdoonvarna, it is kitted out with an E-Car village pub full of character. The locals and Aidan about anything but it’s charging point and free Wi-Fi. It is just five proprietors, Mary and Aidan, and the clear that they’re here because they enjoy minutes drive from The Burren & Cliffs of locals are the real treasures in this place, the place, the Guinness, the craic and the Moher Geopark on The Wild Atlantic Way. which is a unique haven for evenings of homely atmosphere. They tell me they’ve Kilshanny House is a real hidden gem. light entertainment in a cosy, intimate enjoyed some lovely evenings of story- setting. telling, supper theatre and intriguing mixes of Irish and international music. www.kilshannyhouse.ie A German visitor, Kerstin, tells me she Contact 065-7071660 Stonecutters Kitchen Family Restaurant

It’s not every day you can dine in a 100 year old cottage while tucking into “good comfort food that leaves you feeling like you have had a hug from mammy”.

Snug beneath an authentic flagstone roof, this gorgeous bistro serves up fresh, home cooked food made from locally sourced produce at a mid-range price.

Owners, Karen Courtney and Myles Duffy, have created a warm, family oriented experience. Karen, who runs the front of house with Myles as head chef, confided that “it has been a dream of mine since before I left school to own and run my own restaurant. I thrive on making people happy”. This shows in the It has a garden with swings and a slide; a ordering healthy foods. friendly, efficient team they have formed. PLACES toddler play area; plenty of toys indoors, ample parking and an E-Car charging Located only five minutes from the From classic fish and chips to tasty beef point. Cliffs of Moher, it is no small wonder and Guinness stews, warm lunch salads that Stonecutter’s Kitchen is a popular to gourmet sandwiches, dreamy desserts pitstop for anybody who passes through to a full drinks menu, it has something Karen added that there is a special the area in the high season. reward system ‘Skids 4 Kids’ that allows for everyone—especially youngsters, www.stonecutterskitchen.com younger clientele to earn toys by with its award-winning children’s menu. Contact 065-7075962 TO STAY

48 | The Burren A unique visitor experience The Burren Self-Catering Self-Catering The Burren Deelin Mór Lodge

Nestled into the Burren Mountains, at the end of drive lined with dry stone walls and hazel, Deelin Mór Lodge is a dream holiday location where you can experience a lit tle piece of rugged paradise . Burren Escape

ocated on the Carron/Bell master bedroom, two king size bedrooms, Burren Escape in Corofin is your chance to get away from the It is extremely Harbour Road on a 300 acre one twin/triple room, one small double everyday and experience a holiday on a fine estate in the private and you working organic farm, the eco- room, a family bathroom, a television, a friendly, five bedroom self-catering DVD player, a fully equipped kitchen and midst of the stunning landscape of the Burren. “can walk straight Laccommodation is run by H elen and dining room and underfloor heating. Enda Healy. There are also cards, games, a pool table wners, Martin and Natasha material and furniture as possible. This and a large film library available for Easy reach of all out of the house Waldron, live in Cragmoher reuse is just one example of their efforts The idea behind it was to “provide private, guests' use. House and visitors can stay to reduce their environmental impact parts of Clare and experience relaxed and comfortable holiday in one of three self-catering through water, waste, recycling and accommodation that feels like home from The Healys have truly thought of everything “with the diverse the Burren Ocot tages, in a self-contained courtyard. en ergy consumption. home a t the luxury end of the market and and provide a welcome basket of local to fac ilitate guests' access to local produce, landscape that landscape, flora organic produce, details of all the local food They started their business in 2011 As well as restoring the main house to its culture and amenities”, explained Helen. producers, farmers’ markets, with maps and is Cragmoher, and fauna.” aiming to “give guests a unique holiday former glory, they have created contact details and if you prefer not to hire a experience in a historic house and comfortable holiday homes finished to a Corofin and the “As such it is extremely private and you car they will help with transport. courtyard with a central location, within high standard but maintaining their can walk straight out of the house and easy reach of all parts of Clare with the original appeal. A stay here means you Burren on the exp erience the Burren landscape, flora “We aim to make our guests' stay as easy diverse landscape that is Cragmoher, can walk in the footsteps of some of the and fauna. There are wild goats living on and enjoyable as possible, offering a Co rofin and the Burren on the doorstep”. noted people associated with the house, doorstep.” our mountain, 19 confirmed species of concierge service with advice and such as Colonel Thomas Blood, a direct Ghilies can sleep up to four people; the moth and butterfly, hares, foxes, badgers booking of any activities they're Built in the 1850s, Cragmoher House has descendent of the Studderts who Stables can sleep up to eight people, and plus farm animals.” a rich, colourful history. The main house notoriously stole the British Crown interested in and a pre-arrival shop to the Coachouse can sleep up to eight too. burnt down in 1983 and the then owners Jewels. Lady Gregory, confidante of WB save their holiday time. We hope to help They all come equipped with a kitchen, The lodge is surrounded by refurbished the former coachouse and Yeats and founder of the Abbey Theatre, our guests find 'the real Ireland' and dining room, bathrooms and all modern archaeological sites, natural phenomena stables and lived there instead. Originally was directly related to Mrs Studdert, and connect them with the culture and amenities. As well as being able to glance and local attractions. owned by the Studdert family, the artist Anne Madden, wife of Louis le heritage of the area wherever we can,” into the past, this truly tranquil es cape Waldrons acquired it in 2006 after Brocquy, spent her formative years at Enda added. comes with panoramic views. The lodge is filled with character-filled “falling in love with the location”. They Cragmoher House with her godmother, touches like the wood paneled library, took on the challenging project to Audrey Douglas. www.burrenescape.com open fireplaces as well as wooden and www.deelinmor.com refurbish all the houses in the estate and Contact 065-6827734/087-2836296/ limestone flooring. It includes an ensuite Contact 065-7089009/087-6177240 have done this by ‘upcycling’ as much All three cottages are spacious. The 086-8105682

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The Falls Hotel Hotel Doolin & Spa

Whatever the occasion, visitors should treat themselves to a cold glass of the hotel’s very own bespoke brew, Dooliner Beer. Hotel Doolin holds a coveted Green Hospitality Platinum Award—only one of eight hotels nationally to achieve this—and is a model of sustainability as well as hospitality. Ducks and hens are kept on- site; herbs and vegetables for its menu are grown in its own polytunnel; the rainwater is harvested and local suppliers are used for 90% of food deliveries.

The Bridgestone Guide (Ireland’s 100 Best Award) and Lucinda O’Sullivans Great Places to Stay & Eat have both Owned and run by the McCarthy recommended Hotel Doolin. family, The Falls Hotel & Spa is an old Clans and world gem with a modern twist, Perfectly located less than three minutes overlooking the spectacular tumbling warfare, away from all the lively bars and eateries of “ waters of the River Inagh. the village; 10 minutes from Lisdoonvarna landlords and and 20 minutes from Lahinch, Hotel Boasting 140 sumptuous bedrooms, nine tenants, poets, Doolin is music to the ears of any weary self-catering apartments and a pretty three traveller passing through or eager bedroom holiday cottage, the complex is a dreamers and holidaymaker. Doolin has long been celebrated in the Irish cultural and natural choice for any visitor to Ennistymon, entrepreneurs.” which is on the Burren’s doorstep. www.hoteldoolin.ie traditional music world and in the heart of the village lies Contact 065-7074111 The hotel’s walls not only encase an 18th Diners are spoiled for choice with the Thai a boutique hotel which is in tune with the little things. century mansion but a late medieval River Restaurant, the Cascades Restaurant castle. The site holds a formidable history or the Dylan Thomas bar—each offering of four and a half centuries encompassing diverse menus of delectable cuisine. ontemporary and stylish, The Doolin Writer’s Weekend in March; Doolin Craft Beer Festival in August. “clans and warfare, landlords and tenants, Hotel Doolin not only offers The Doolin Folk Festival in June and The Facilities can be tailored to requirements. Don’t Forget! poets, dreamers and entrepreneurs”. The bar’s name is no coincidence. The deluxe bedrooms but has a There are two other Falls has a real life connection with multitude of facilities and accommodation options that Another part of the heritage here is infamous Welsh poet, Dylan Thomas. C hosts three of the most excellent service. Whether for a weekend Francis McNamara, the father of popular annual festivals in the Burren. fall into this category highlighted elsewhere in the or a wedding, the team of staff ensure a Thomas’ one time lover, Caitlin, owned pleasant visit. Ennistymon House (the hotel’s previous A stay here is a unique experience as the guide. Both are situated in incarnation). actual hotel itself is built into its very own the spa town of The only thing that rivals The Falls’ pleasant streetscape including the elegant Lisdoonvarna and boast eatery the Chervil Restaurant; cosy meeting beautiful interior is its surroundings. The Conscious of the environment that excellent accommodation hotel is veiled by woodland scenery and is surrounds it, the hotel is currently spots such as Fitzpatrick’s Bar, Atrium Bar, and dining options as well. Café Sonas and Pizza Café and an array of set beside the meandering river, which undertaking a long-term project to build a shops including the Shaggy Sheep Gift Sheedy’s Country House adds to the serene atmosphere exuded here. hydro-generator on the waterfall that runs Shop & Gallery and The Doolin Pantry. The Hotel (pg. 46) has 11 through the property. Tourist Information Bureau is based here comfortable rooms and an Before or after exploring the Burren and too, for all those insider tips on things to see award-winning restaurant partaking in its many charms, the The Falls Hotel & Spa effortlessly and do. and bar. The Wild Honey Inn Riverspa offers over 50 Elemis beauty combines traditional and modern. (pg. 44) includes 14 cosy and relaxing treatments. The Aqua and Fitness Club is perfect for a splash in the The hotel’s outdoor terrace, 140 seater bedrooms and its bistro has banqueting suite and marquee on request pool, a soak in the Jacuzzi, a lounge in the adds to its appeal as a wedding venue as garnered many accolades. sauna and a refreshing recline in the www.fallshotel.com well its stellar reputation for events like outdoor hot tub. Contact 065-7071004

52 | The Burren A unique visitor experience A unique visitor experience The Burren | 53 The Burren GuestHouses & B&Bs GuestHouses & B&Bs The Burren

business has graded by the AA as "Four Star Guest Accommodation" and as a "Four We make every Star Country Home" by Fáilte Ireland. With luxurious accommodation, that effort to offer our includes views of the 500-year-old “guests a very Doonmacfelim Castle, flat screen TV and king-sized beds, the B&B also serves up warm welcome.” an exquisite selection of food.

Some breakfast ingredients for guests are wanted to move home and decided to sourced from the garden polytunnel, build a guest house so as to have more which Niall tends to. Eggs come straight freedom, be my own boss and to be at from the family chicken coop, breads and home for my son as he was growing up. muffins are baked in the kitchen. In My mum used to run her own B&B so it season, they use their own home grown runs in the family,” said Mary. organic rhubarb, melons, strawberries, potatoes and tomatoes. They also make all “We believe hospitality is a long- their own yoghurt and salt too. standing Irish tradition and we make Ballinsheen House every effort to offer our guests a very Whatever isn’t directly produced on site warm welcome.” comes from the local area—down to the printing of food miles (distance from farm A belief in a unique style of Irish gone from strength to strength since the Ballinsheen House offers all ensuite to fork) next to each dish on the menu. hospitality and a desire to return home Gardiners came home in 1996. The bed double, king and family rooms. All The Hughes’ also use solar panels to heat prompted Mary and Michael & breakfast has been graded as a Four breakfasts are cooked to order and as Sea View House Boutique B&B all of the water and their electric car Gardiner to build a guest house in Star Country Home by Fáilte Ireland and many ingredients as possible are sourced charge point is free to use by guests. West Clare and they haven’t looked won a 2013 Certificate of Excellence from local, artisan producers. If you’re looking for locally sourced, Located in Doolin, Sea View House is run back since. from Trip Advisor. high quality food in a scenic setting, by Darra and Niall Hughes and sits on the www.ballinsheen.com look no further than Sea View House side of a hill that overlooks the Atlantic www.seaview-doolin.ie Ballinsheen House in Lisdoonvarna has “I used to work as a travel agent but we Contact 065-7074806 Boutique B&B. Ocean and the Aran Islands. The family run Contact 087-2679617

After many years of living through the Rockyview Farmhouse hustle and bustle of life in London and Dublin, Patricia and Martin McMahon decided in 2006 to set up Greenlawn B&B Rockyview Farmhouse offers high their own bed & breakfast in the quality bed & breakfast The very relaxed, striking surroundings of Ballinsheen accommodation in an idyllic setting laid-back with panoramic vistas of Fanore. Mór, Lisdoonvarna. “atmosphere that The decision to return to Martin’s There are five bedrooms and other hometown is one they do not regret, as facilities include a conservatory (with free permeates here Greenlawn B&B is now recognised as a Wi-Fi) and a private car park. is always top quality ‘home from home’ in one of the most beautiful corners of Ireland. Owners, Ita and Noel Walsh, bought remarked on by Rockyview in 1997 from Ita’s mother, visitors.” As well as providing highly comfortable Teresa Linnane. The Walshes lend their accommodation and delicious breakfasts, fishing rods and bikes to guests and it’s a the McMahon house is ideally located real family affair as their three children for exploring the large number of unique attractions that Lisdoonvarna and the often help out too. Rockyview Farmhouse is certified in the surrounding areas have to offer. Green Hospitality Awards and they grow a “As we do not have televisions in the lot of their own vegetables/herbs; keep bedrooms our guests usually have a good hens for free range eggs and use organic We are situated night’s sleep,” said Ita, “The very relaxed, fertilisers and cleaning agents. laid-back atmosphere that permeates here in one of the “We are situated in one of the most well as many other local attractions.” is always remarked on by visitors.” “We are aware of the beauty and fragile “most beautiful beautiful parts of the world, as far as we In keeping with their ethos of using nature of the Burren. We endeavour to are concerned,” said Patricia. environmentally friendly business parts of the practices, Greenlawn Bed & Breakfast One of the extraordinary aspects of their pass on to our guest the necessary “It is so different from the lifestyle one has solar panels installed, which provide business is that guests become long time information to respect and protect our world, as far as gets used to when living in a big city but guests with their hot water. friends so the word ‘guest’ hardly applies. precious landscape,” Noel added. we’re concerned.” it suits us perfectly. Our guests are lucky Very soon, Noel is speaking French to a in that we are ideally located for visiting www.greenlawnbandb.com visitor or Ita is sitting in the conservatory www.rockyviewfarmhouse.com the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher as Contact 065-7074861 chatting as if she’s known you for years. Contact 065-7076103

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involved in village life. In the pubs you chipping in to rebuild dry stone walls Corofin Camping can listen to traditional music and dance and maintain the blackthorn hedgerows. a Clare set, while the small roads leading The Neylon family has a long history in & Hostel out of the village offer you the chance to this spot, and if you have time, it is well On the road from Kilfenora to Ennis you cycle or walk deeper into the Burren. worth asking the owners to fill you in. Doolin Hostel will come across the vibrant village of Corofin. At Corofin Camping & Hostel, The starts outside the door Corofin Camping & Hostel plays a large the Neylon family personally guarantees of the hostel and the owners have free role in village life, including the that you will “go home under the spell of maps to hand which will help you promotion of the Corofin Traditional pting for budget 2013 and also recently received a Green facilities available too. the Burren”. Here you get the chance to discover the Burren at your leisure. Festival and the Seisiún at Teach Ceoil. accommodation need not Hospitality Gold Award—the first and “This was the first hostel in Clare become a local in a village famous for its Initially the site of Neylon’s General The owners are also involved in the Tidy mean sacrificing on comfort only hostel in Ireland to achieve this. [founded 1983] and a family business of traditional music and dancing, while Grocery and Hardware Shop, the Neylon Towns Competition and are members of with the high quality hostel 30 years. After 15 years of hotel relaxing in your own four walls in the family converted the site to the hostel, Greenhospitality.ie. with the camping coming as a direct Oexperience offered at Doolin Hostel. management internationally and in new tent garden. Facilities include a kitchen; a dining room; result of visitors looking to pitch a tent Ireland, I returned home with my wife, a living room; a laundry and drying room, While here you can take advantage of the somewhere. The site has been a labour of www.corofincamping.com Run by Anthony and Deirdre Moloney, Deirdre, and my kids, Emily and free car parking and Wi-Fi; internet access; central, main street location to get love for locals, with family friends Contact 065-6837683/086-8398226 the hostel is in the centre of Doolin Isabelle,” said Anthony. a printer; equipment storage and a café. In village and not just close to all amenities “Since taking over the property in 2012, but is an ideal base for outdoor activities addition, it offers tourist information and we have invested heavily into the in the locality. It is also at the start of the serves as a ticket office for Bus Éireann, buildings and have undertaken major Cliffs of Moher Coastal Trail. with a bus stop located here. renovations. We are constantly Kilfenora Hostel developing services and product Doolin Hostel, which has 22 bedrooms, There is a free breakfast buffet with all offerings, increasing the quality and Kilfenora is more than just a destination gained a Trip advisor Award of Excellence room rates and it has full separate group value for money.” for a day trip and staying in Kilfenora Hostel gives you a chance to immerse www.doolinhostel.ie yourself in all aspects of the village. Contact 087-2820587 Orla Vaughan is well-known in Kilfenora for her infectious enthusiasm and bubbly personality, and you’d be hard pressed to do anything other than enjoy time spent Don’t Forget! in her company. The Boghill Centre (pg. 32) A member of the Vaughan family that also offers a place to stay runs Vaughan’s Pub next door (forever to in either a hostel or bed & be known as the ‘ Father Ted Pub’), her breakfast capacity. In father is also the local auctioneer. Such is addition, it runs holiday the connection between the Vaughan packages paired with family and the village of Kilfenora, that activities like sustainable the hostel is built on the site of an old sheep fair which the Vaughan family used whatever may be going on in Kilfenora reason enough for you to prefer the building and living, to run once a month in times gone by. during your stay. hostel as your overnight base. traditional music and holistic workshops. From this point of view, you are well Orla loves to welcome visitors to the www.kilfenorahostel.com connected to get an invitation to Burren. And her humour and warmth are Contact 065-7088908

56 | The Burren A unique visitor experience A unique visitor experience The Burren | 57 The Burren Members Members The Burren

Burren Experience Guided Walks p34 Clareville House Kitchen Garden p43 Greenlawn B&B p54 North Clare Sea Kayaking Tours p28 Corofin Ballyvaughan Lisdoonvarna Doolin t. 086-8219441 t. 086-8038477 t. 065-7074861 t. 085-1195489 e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] Leave No Trace w. www.mullaghmore-burren.com w. www.burrenkitchengarden.com w. www.lisdoonvarnabnb.com w. www.northclareseakayaking.com Leave No Trace Ireland is a network Burren Fine Wine & Foods p42 Cliffs of Moher Visitor Experience p14 Hazel Mountain Chocolate p37 Roadside Tavern p45 of organisations and individuals Ballyvaughan Near Bell Harbour Lisdoonvarna with an interest in promoting the Burren t. 087-7633241 t. 065-7086141 t. 087-9903000 t. 065-7074084 responsible recreational use of the e. [email protected] [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] outdoors. Ecotourism w. www.burrenwine.ie w. www.cliffsofmoher.ie w. www.hazelmountainchocolates.com w. www.roadsidetavern.ie Members At the heart of Leave No Trace are Burren Free Range Pork p41 Corofin Camping & Hostel p57 Heart of Burren Walks p25 Rocky View Farmhouse p55 Adventure Burren p23 Kilfenora Corofin Kilnaboy Fanore seven principles for reducing the Carron t. 086-8815974 t. 065-6837683 t. 065 6827707 t. 065-7076103 damage caused by outdoor t. 087-2244569 e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] activities. e. [email protected] w. www.burrenfreerangepork.com w. www.corofincamping.com w. www.heartofburrenwalks.com w. www.rockyviewfarmhouse.com w. www.adventureburren.com These are: Burren Journey p30 Deelin Mór Lodge & Cottages p50 Hotel Doolin p52 Seaview House p54 (1) Plan ahead and prepare Backwest Adventures p23 Corofin Carron Doolin Doolin (2) Be considerate of others Ballyvaughan t. 065-6837555 t. 065-7089009 t. 065-7074111 t. 087-2679617 (3) Respect farm animals and t. 086-0563624 e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] wildlife e. [email protected] w. www.burrenjourney.com w. www.deelinmor.com w. www.hoteldoolin.ie w. www.seaview-doolin.ie (4) Travel and camp on durable w. www.backwestadventures.com Burren Nature Sanctuary p17 Doolin Cave p15 Kilfenora Hostel p57 Sheedys Hotel & Restaurant p46 ground Ballinsheen House p55 Kinvara Doolin Kilfenora Lisdoonvarna (5) Leave what you find Lisdoonvarna t. 091-637444 t. 065-7075761 t. 065-7088908 t. 065-7074026 (6) Dispose of waste properly t. 065-7074806 e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] (7) Minimise the effects of fire. e. [email protected] w. www.bns.ie w. www.doolincave.ie w. www.kilfenorahostel.com w .www.sheedys.com w. www.ballinsheen.com Practicing a Leave No Trace ethic is Burren Outdoor Education Centre p24 Doolin Hostel p56 Kilshanny House p48 Stonecutters Kitchen p48 simple. Make it hard for others to Boghill Centre p32 Bell Harbour Doolin Kilshanny Doolin see or hear you and Kilfenora t. 065-7078066 t. 087-2820587 t. 065-7071660 t. 065-7075962 LEAVE NO TRACE of your visit. t. 065-7074644 e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] w. www.burrenoec.com w. www.doolinhostel.ie w. www.kilshannyhouse.ie w. www.stonecutterskitchen.com w. www.boghill.com Burren Perfumery p18 Doreen Drennan Art Studio p30 Lahinch Adventures p27 St Tola Irish Goat’s Cheese pg 39 Burren Angling Guide p29 Bell Harbour Lisdoonvarna Lahinch Ennistymon Burren Ecotourism has been Carron t. 065-7089102 t. 087-9303755 t. 086-8448622 t. 065-6836633 supported by: t. 087-6566609 e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] w. www.burrenperfumery.com w. www.doreendrennan.com w. www.lahinchadventures.com w. www.st-tola.ie

The Burren Centre p16 Burren Smokehouse p38 E-whizz & Ted Tours p33 Lahinch Seaworld & Leisure Centre p26 The Russell Gallery p17 Kilfenora Lisdoonvarna Kilfenora Lahinch New Quay t. 065-7088030 t. 065-7074432 t. 087-6277000 t. 065-7081900 t. 065-7078185 e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] w.www.theburrencentre.ie w. www.burrensmokehouse.ie w. www.e-whizz.com w. www.lahinchseaworld.com w. www.russellgallery.net

Burren Coaches p33 Burren Wild Tours p34 Falls Hotel & Spa p53 Linnalla Ice Cream Cafe p41 Wild Honey Inn p44 New Quay Bell Harbour Ennistymon New Quay Lisdoonvarna t. 065-7078009 t. 087-8779565 t. 065-7071004 t. 065-7078167 t. 065-7074300 e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] e. [email protected] w. burrencoaches.ie w. www.burrenwalks.com w. www.fallshotel.ie w. www.linnallaicecream.ie w. www.wildhoneyinn.com

Burren Escape p51 Burren Yoga & Meditation Centre p31 Glanquin House Linnane’s Lobster Bar p47 Wild Kitchen p40 Corofin Kinvara (Fr. Ted Parochial House) p20 New Quay Lahinch t. 065-6827734 t. 091-637680 Kilnaboy t. 065-7078120 t. 087-6877890 e. [email protected] e. [email protected] t. 087-9214694 e. [email protected] e. [email protected] w. www.burrenescape.com w. www.burrenyoga.com e. [email protected] w. www.linnanesbar.com w. www.wildkitchen.ie For further information on w. www.fathertedshouse.com Burren Ecotourism, visit www.burrenecotourism.com.

58 | The Burren A unique visitor experience A unique visitor experience The Burren | 59

The Burren Sustainable Travel

Walking/Cycling Routes For detailed information on cycling and walking routes throughout the Burren, visit www.burrengeopark.ie or pick up a copy of the Burren Explorer booklet at visitor centres and local shops. It contains detailed maps and route guides.

Electric Car Charging Points Boghill Centre, Kilfenora Tel: +353 (0) 65-7074644

Kilshanny House Tel: +353 (0) 65-7071660

Gregan’s Castle Hotel, Ballyvaughan Maintaining the international treasure that is Tel: +353 (0) 65-7077005 the Burren is of vital importance and one way Doolin Caravan and Camping Park of doing that is by using sustainable transport Tel: +353 (0) 65-7074458 to travel to and within the area as much as Hotel Doolin possible. Below is a selection of options for this. Tel: +353 (0) 65-7074111

By Train Limerick Bus Station: By Boat +353 (0) 61-313333 Visit www.irishrail.ie for Doolin2Aran Ferries information on services, Clare Bus is a locally operated bus Tel: +353 (0) 65-7075949. Website: destinations, timetables and ticket service. Call to book a seat on www.doolin2aranferries.com. sales or telephone: +353 (0) 61-924375 or 1890-687287 or email: [email protected]. O’Brienline Doolin Ferry Ennis Train Station: The Burren National Park operates a Tel: +353 (0) 65-7075555. Website: +353 (0) 65-6840444 bus service into the park from its centre www.obrienline.com. in Corofin during the summer months. Train Station: +353 (0) 91-366222 By Bike Finding Your Way Around The Burren & Cliffs of Moher Galway (Ceannt) Train Station: Pedal Bicycle Hire Burren Fine Wine and Foods, Geopark APP is designed to guide +353 (0) 91-561444 you through our landscape and help Ballyvaughan you locate all the wonderful delights Tel: +353 (0) 65-7077046. Email: Limerick (Colbert) Train Station: that await you. Information on +353 (0) 61-315555 [email protected]. Website: sustainable transport options is www.burrenwine.ie provided and special offers are By Bus available to visitors using these Burren Bike Rental options. Visit www.buseireann.ie for The Launderette, Ballyvaughan. information on services, Tel: +353 (0) 65-7077061. Email: destinations, timetables, ticket sales [email protected] or to download the Bus Eireann iphone APP or telephone: Lahinch Bikes Tel: +353 (0) 86-8448622. Ennis Bus/Train Station: Email:[email protected]. +353 (0) 65-6840444 Website: www.benssurfclinic.com

Gort Bus/Train Station: Electric Bicycle Hire e-whizz +353 (0) 91-366222 Tel: +353 (0) 87-6277000. Email: [email protected]. Website: Galway Bus Station: www.e-whizz.com +353 (0) 91-562000

60 | The Burren A unique visitor experience

N18

National Road Flaggy Shore Limestone N67 Shale Black Head Link Road Sandstone and Shale New Quay Dunguaire Murrooghtoohy R347 8 38 39 46 Castle

Glenleninaghg Castle N67 Burrenbeo Tr ust Kinvarra C Burren Nature ah CoC 14 er Sanctuary Fanore Beach 42 V Bell Harbour Ab a l 18 31 Oughtmama le 2 Caher Valley Loop y Ballyvaughan Churches Bus Service Black Head Loop 11 Fanore to Ballyvaughan Trek Wood Loop Train Station Fanore 20 15 Burren Outdoor R477 Baliny 19 Coole Park Ferry Education Centre An Raathh Visitor Centre Electric Car Charging Point Cahermore 23 Ballyallaban an N67 rr ve a er Gragan C es ve R ie e Cycling Route Trail Head Sl ur N66 at N Kilmacduagh Gort Bike Hire/Repair Monastic Site Poulnabrone Burren 16 Loop Perfumery 43 48 Cahermacnaghten Templecronan Loop Teemplecronanmplepleccronannan Doolin Cave Chhurururcch Geopark Heritage Trail Craggycorradane 26 30 Carran Turlough Loop 24 3 41 Carran R477 CaherconnellFort Cliffs of Moher Coastal Walk Lisdoonvarna Carran R460 Looped Walk Trail Head 1 6 Turlough Boston R479 Smokehouse The Burren Cycleway CaC rranan Burren Way Church Lough Doolin Pier 17 Dolmen cleway R476 Doolin Bunny Cycle Hub R480 Michael en ark Doolin 47 urr l P B ona Cusack ati 25 33 40 44 Centre N Geosite R478 N67 Kilfilfenorae ra Tu bber CaC thedralal Lough Avalla Burren National Visitor/Education Centre Leaeamaneh Farm Loop Park Trails R462 CaCastlel R460 Kilfenora Monument r e Cliffs of Moher Kilshanny h o 5 7 12 Viewing Point M Visitor Experience 35 R476 f R481 N18 o s 27 34 Killinnaaboab y Church ff li C Killinaboy 21 29 32

R478 Genealogy Centre Burren National Park Ballinruan Heritage Centre Visitor Centre Belfast Moher Liscannor 4 36 Town Trail Burren and Lehinch N85 10 13 28 Ennistimon Geopark Galway Dublin 22 Ruan 37 9

Ennis Ruan-Dromore Wood Loop Limerick R476 SHANNON 45 International o ill Airport Dromore Wood Nature Reserve Cork Inagh R460 Dysert O’Dea Archaeology Centre

Map Key 11. Burren Fine Wine & Foods 20. Clareville House Kitch en 29. Glanquin House 3 9. L in na ne’s Lo bster Bar

12. Burren Free Range Pork Garden (Fr. Ted Parochial House) 40. North Clare Sea Kayaking 1. Adventure Burren 13. Burren Journey 21. Cliffs o f Moher Visitor 30. Greenlawn B&B To ur s 2. Backwest Adventures 14. Burren Nature Sanctuary Experience 31. Hazel Mountain Ch ocolate 4 1. Roa dside Tavern 3. Ballinsheen House 15. Burren Outdoor Education 32. Heart of Burren Walks 22. Corofi n C amping & Hos tel 4 2. Rocky View Farmhouse 4. Wild Kitchen Centre Corofin 33. Hotel Doolin 43. Sheedys Hotel & Restaurant 5. Boghill Centre 16. Burren Perfumery 23. Deelin More Lodge & Cottages 34. Kilfenora Hostel 44. Stonecutters Kitchen 6. Burren Angling Guide 17. Burren Smokehouse 24. Doolin Cave 35. Kilshanny House 45. St Tola Irish Goat’s Cheese 7. The Burren Centre 18. Burren Wild Tours 25. Doolin Hostel 36. Lahinch Adventures 46. The Russell Gallery 8. Burren Coaches 19. Burren Yoga & Meditation 26. Doreen Drennan Art Studio 37. Lahinch Seaworld & Leisure 47. The Seaview House 9. Burren Escape Centre 27. E-whizz & Ted Tours Centre 48. Wild Honey Inn 10. Burren Experience Guided 28. Falls Hotel & Spa 38. Linnalla Ice Cream Cafe Walks 62 | The Burren A unique visitor experience A unique visitor experience The Burren | 63