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Denmark's Tranquil Charm

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Denmark's Tranquil Charm JUNE 2017 | Our 39th Year AndrewHarper.com TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES COUNTRY HOUSE HOTELS, NEW NORDIC CUISINE, BALTIC SEASCAPES COVER PHOTOGRAPH Kokkedal Slot Copenhagen DENMARK’S TRANQUIL CHARM THIS MONTH openhagen is regularly ranked Denmark is easy, convenient and comfort- ZEALAND AND JUTLAND among the world’s most livable able. The country has excellent infra- On a 10-day journey I explored Denmark’s two biggest islands and visited Aarhus, the country’s cities. Certainly the international structure, with well-maintained roads C second-largest city, before returning to cosmo- popularity of the Danish capital is well- and ferries. Kastrup, Copenhagen’s main politan Copenhagen. Throughout my tour, the deserved, thanks to its fine museums, international airport, is so attractive and standard of the hotels was a revelation. ...... 1-7 grand architecture, great shopping and efficient it inspires immediate envy. Just cutting-edge restaurant scene. However, to the north, the countryside resembles few travelers discover the delights of a vast and lovingly tended garden. In TEXAS HOTEL NEWS Denmark beyond its largest metropolis. As late spring, the rolling green fields were On recent trips I have stayed in Austin, San I recently found on a 10-day trip through interspersed with bright-yellow bands of Antonio and the sleepy town of Marfa. I also enjoyed a gastronomic dude ranch at the edge the countryside, this pretty, polite, peace- flowering rapeseed, while huge high-tech of the Texas Hill Country. .......................... 8-11 ful country, roughly half the size of Maine, windmills — Denmark has been a pioneer is a wonderful destination for delicious in the generation of wind power — were Find additional stories, video and more food, impressive castles and charming arrayed on the crests of the hills. photography of my trips at AndrewHarper.com. country house hotels. For many years, Falsled Kro, a longtime favorite on the Andrew Harper travels anonymously and island of Funen, was the only property DANISH RIVIERA pays full rate for all lodging, meals and I recommended outside Copenhagen, n need of a rest after the transatlantic related travel expenses. Since the launch of this newsletter in 1979, the featured hotels but now it’s been joined by several other flight, we stopped first at Kokkedal I and restaurants have been selected on a addresses, which collectively form a Slot Copenhagen (“slot” is the Danish completely independent basis. splendid touring itinerary. Travel in word for “castle”), a 62-room hotel located Full-service travel planning is available to members at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected]. For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Garden Room, Superior Room, and horseback rider at the entrance to Kokkedal Slot Copenhagen Deck view, and The Beach House at Gilleleje Badehotel on the scenic eastern shore of the island Bohemian crystal chandeliers, gilded Junior Suite, which came with a beamed of Zealand, the so-called Danish Riviera, mirrors, a conservatory veranda used ceiling, oak parquet floors and a large, 35 minutes to the north of Copenhagen. as the main restaurant during summer comfortable bed made up with good- This handsome white 18th-century manor months — from September to May, dining quality linens and an oyster-gray satin house sits on a low hill, affording views moves to the vaulted cellar — and a cozy coverlet. A sitting area was furnished of the surrounding estate (including a bar with a fine selection of Aquavit, the with a wood-framed sofa and a matching nearby 18-hole golf course) and the distant signature Scandinavian spirit. armchair. The bath was appointed with Baltic Sea. It proved to be a quiet and After a warm and efficient welcome, Victorian brass fixtures and came with gracious place. The ground floor of the which is characteristic of Danish hotel- a separate tub and shower. hotel is occupied by a large lounge with keeping, we settled into our light-filled Having explored the hotel, we bicy- cled around the grounds — which contain working stables and a riding school — and 1 Hotel d’Angleterre (96) afterward enjoyed the sauna, steam room SKAGEN 2 Kokkedal Slot Copenhagen (92) and indoor pool. Later we had an excel- NORTH 6 3 Gilleleje Badehotel (89) lent dinner of salted Norwegian lobster, SEA 4 Dragsholm Slot (94) followed by a rib-eye with grilled lettuce, 5 Villa Provence (89) truffle sauce and onions. Both the service AALBORG 1.25 HRS 6 Ruths Hotel (93) and wine list were commendable. 7 Henne Kirkeby Kro (94) As well as being a very pleasant 8 Falsled Kro (96) place to stay, Kokkedal is also an ideal overnight for anyone planning to visit 1.5 HRS DENMARK the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art in S WEDEN nearby Humlebæk, one of Europe’s best GILLELEJE contemporary art institutions. 3 HRS 5 AARHUS 3 45 MIN HØRSHOLM HENNE JUTLAND 2 GILLELEJE HØRVE 35 MIN 90 MIN 40-minute drive along quiet back 7 2 HRS 4 1 COPENHAGEN A roads to the northern tip of Zealand ODENSE 2 HRS brought us to the pretty seaside village 45 MIN ZEALAND of Gilleleje. A popular weekend destina- 8 FUNEN tion for Copenhageners, it has a relaxed, BAL TIC rustic appeal similar to that of the North SEA Fork of Long Island. This little fishing port was a favorite watering hole of the Danish philosopher Søren Kierke- gaard, who came here to lose himself GERMANY in thought while gazing at the pewter- 2 HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2017 colored waters of the strait separating views. The baths provide only showers, The 34-room Dragsholm Slot hotel is Denmark and Sweden. however. The property’s chief amenity is housed within a 13th-century castle, one Located atop a cliff overlooking the a small spa with a sauna, a Turkish bath of the oldest buildings in Denmark. Today sea, the 24-room Gilleleje Badehotel and a pleasant relaxation lounge. In the it boasts a Michelin-starred restaurant, instantly reminded me of the unpreten- dining room, the short menu changes Slotskøkkenet, run by chef Claus Henrik- tious, easygoing seaside hotels that were nightly to feature the best local seasonal sen. (There is also a cheerful bistro with once found in places like Nantucket before produce. During our stay, this included modern Danish furniture, lovely views a different idea of luxury became the delicious Danish ham with artichoke and a less complicated menu.) Having preferred template. This quiet, comfort- purée and basil oil, veal tenderloin with driven up a long tree-lined lane, we found able property is much beloved by affluent potatoes Anna, and lemon-marinated the castle on a hill beyond several barns Danes, some of whom come for the week- strawberries with toasted almonds, mint and some annex rooms (which should end or a short holiday, while others, local and vanilla ice cream. be avoided). Fortunately, I had booked a homeowners, stop by its restaurant on double room in the main U-shaped castle nights when they don’t feel like cooking. building. This proved to be spacious, with The white-painted wooden hotel was HØRVE fine views over a formal garden below to built in 1908, but it has been updated s many food lovers know, Denmark fields beyond. Attractively furnished, it with respect for the eminently sensible Ahas recently become a culinary provided a four-poster Hästens bed (a idea that life in seaside places should be destination. The man chiefly responsible Swedish manufacturer that makes some simpler than it is in a city. I often find that for the transformation is René Redzepi, of the world’s best beds). The bath (shower the best way of getting to know a country of the famous noma restaurant in Copen- only) came with distinctive toiletries by isn’t by visiting its historic monuments hagen (which closed in February). His Munkholm, a family-owned business. or pacing its museums, but rather by influence has spread across the country, And a complimentary snacks tray, with spending some time with the locals in one with numerous chefs who trained with him sugared sunflower seeds and a wild-mint of their favorite getaways. So if you want now flying the colors of his New Nordic drink, was a pleasing touch. pillow menus and 24-hour room service, cooking, which espouses local, seasonal Having unpacked, we set off to this hotel definitely isn’t for you. But if and often wild, foraged ingredients. This explore. The 800-year-old castle has your idea of a perfect afternoon is a long has upped the country’s gastronomic an austere but very beautiful chapel, clifftop walk savoring the clean salt air, game immeasurably. a library and numerous lounges. The followed by a good dinner in a candlelit A leisurely two-hour drive southwest historic displays explaining the castle’s dining room, you might be very happy across Zealand took us through some of history were interesting if somewhat in here. The hotel also has several cozy the most immaculately groomed farmland need of updating. Afterward we enjoyed lounges, where you can settle in with a I have ever seen. Nearing our destination, a memorably lazy afternoon before going good book over a cup of tea or something we stopped for a picnic on the white sands downstairs for dinner in the basement a little stronger. of Lammefjord beach, an impromptu restaurant, secluded behind the castle’s If possible, you should book one of feast comprising deliciously tangy brown three-foot-thick walls. With a cooking the two double rooms on the third floor, bread, ham, cheese, apples and a sip of style he describes as “nature conscious,” which come with parquet floors, abundant the Aquavit that the butcher who sold us chef Henriksen builds his menu around light, comfortable beds and beautiful sea the ham had insisted on giving us.
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