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Anuarios Cab 4 INDICES DE LOS ANUARIOS DEL CLUB ANDINO BARILOCHE Desde agosto 1931 hasta julio 2011 Ski y Andinismo Aniversario 80 Memoria 2006-2011 del Club Andino Bariloche Indice Pág. Comisión Directiva 6 Nuestro Anuario, por Toncek Arko 11-12 1 - Patagonia Vertical 19- 76 Fin al mito en la pared Norte del Torre 19- 23 2006-2007: -Colin Haley estampó su firma en el Torre 23- 24 -La gran travesía del Torre, por Rolando Garibotti, Colin Haley y otros 24- 34 2008-2009: -Sueños patagónicos concretados 34- 36 -Una temporada Inolvidable, por Tomás Aguló 36- 46 -Motivación, alegría y todo lo demás, por Luciano Tessio 46- 50 2009-2010: -Dos nuevas rutas Argentinas al Fitz Roy 51- 53 -Afanassief por las chicas, por Milena Gómez 53- 56 -“Historia sin fin” y “Clínica de aventura”, por Jorge Ackermann 56- 60 -Otra Argentina en la Cima del Fitz Roy 60- 63 2010-2011: -Patagonia en la WEB 63- 66 -¡¡¡Al abordaje!!!, por Luciano Florenza 66- 67 -Cumbres Patagónicas, por Alan Schwer y José Bonacalza 68- 73 -La vuelta al Hielo Patagónico a toda máquina, por Leonardo“Cuny”Proverbio 73- 76 2 - Argentinos en el Himalaya 2006-2011 79-103 -Introducción 79- 80 2006: Segundo 8000 para Darío Bracali 80- 81 2007: Argentinos en Shishapangma y Broad Peak 81- 82 2008: Dhaulagiri, Cima y tragedia 82- 83 2009: Mercedes Sahores, la primera Argentina en la Cima del Everest 83- 84 2010: Once Argentinos en Cimas superiores a los 8000 metros 84- 86 2011: Leo McLean completó las “7 summit” 86- 87 Las “Siete Cimas” para dos Argentinos 87 -Resumen Argentinos en el Himalaya 88- 90 Expedición CAB al Everest, por Charly Galosi 92-103 -De Argentina a Nepal 92 -La aclimatación 92- 94 -El ascenso 94- 96 -Como vivimos la cumbre 96-199 -La vuelta a casa 100-103 3 - Exploraciones Más allá del Hielo Patagónico Norte, por Gabriel “Bicho” Fiorenza 107-121 -El territorio 107 -Una idea particular 107-109 -Comienza la aventura 109-111 -El páramo de Ofqui 111-114 -Las bestias marinas 114-118 -Últimos días 118-120 -Datos estadísticos 120-121 Más allá del Hielo Sur, por Gabriel Fiorenza 122-138 -Datos estadísticos 138 4 - Puna de Atacama Algunos primeros ascensos en la Puna de Atacama, por Guillermo Almaraz 141-142 -2004: Primeras cumbres secundarias y un 5000 virgen 142 -2005: Janne Corax marca la senda 142-143 -2006: Un Invierno mítico 143 -2007: El ciclo de las travesías 143-144 -2008: Un año creativo 144-145 -2009: El último gran glaciar y el paso de los Pou 145 -2010: Dos rutas nuevas a más de 6500 mts. 145-147 -2011: El año recién comienza 147 5 - Andinismo, Ascensos y Escaladas -Aconcagua 2008. Grupo “Cuesta Brava”, por AndrésMartínez Infante 151-170 -Proyecto Aconcagua Speed Record 2011, por Charly Galosi La Partida, El Intento, Conclusión 171-174 -El Aconcagua ya tiene su Refugio “Elena” para emergencias 175-176 -Tronador, Finito Sur por Luciano Fiorenza 177-181 -Tronador, Internacional con esquís, por Sebastián de la Cruz 182-186 -Mapeo e Inventario de glaciares en Argentina, por Daniel Falaschi 187-197 Resultados: MonteSan Lorenzo,Cerro W,Cerro Hermoso, Cerro Penitentes 192-196 -Discusión y conclusiones 196-197 28 temporadas consecutivas caminando la montaña Por la SubComisión GEDA (Grupo de Excursionistas Adultos) 198-209 -Esencia 199 -Trayectoria 199-203 -Guías y ayudantes 203-204 -Lugares visitados 204-206 -Cerro GEDA, por Roni Monrás 207-208 -Cerro Alfredo, por Roni Monrás 208-209 Como bautizar las montañas de Sudamérica por Evelio Echeverria 210-211 -Como si bautizar 210 -Como no bautizar 210-211 -¿Rebautizar? ¿Desbautizar? 211 Ascensiones históricas muy poco conocidas 211-214 -Andes del Norte 212-214 -Andes del Sur 214 -Fuentes de Información 214 Montañas y costas limpias 2006-2011 215-216 Pioneros en la Cordillera de los Andes, por Roni Monrás 217-229 -Carlos Oertle 217 -Manuel Puente 218-220 -Emilio Hernández 220-221 -Pedro “Peter” Strukelj 221-223 -Sigfrido Rubulis 223-225 -Renato Cattelani 225 -Gino de Pellegrin 226 -Gustavo Kammerer 226 -Leopoldo “Polo” Baratta 227 -Carlos Sonntag 227-228 -Dolly Frey 228-229 Montañistas y esquiadores allegados al CAB fallecidos en los últimos años 229-230 “The Big Bang”: Escalada Deportiva 2006-2011, por Martín Finster 231-236 -Y los ternados para “el escalador de oro” son ... 232-233 -El nuevo Campeonato Argentino de Escalada Deportiva 233-236 Campeonato Argentino de Escalada Deportiva, por Martín Lascano 237-241 -Período Institucional 237-240 -Año 2009 240 -Año 2010 240-241 -Año 2011 241 Escalada deportiva en Cerro Catedral: -13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 Rock Masters Frey 242-246 Escuela Juvenil de Montaña, por Pablo Bellavitis 247-252 -Período enero 2005 a marzo 2006 247 -Noviembre 2006 a marzo 2008 247-248 -Temporada 2008-2009 248-249 -Temporada 2009-2010 250-251 -Temporada 2010-2011 252 6 - Carreras de aventura Carreras de aventura en el CAB 255-257 -El Tetra Catedral 258 -4 Refugios 258-259 Andrés Martínez Infante: “Lo Importante es participar” 259-261 Resultados: -4 Refugios 2006 261-262 -Tetratlón Catedral 2006 262-263 -4 Refugios 2007 263-264 -Tetratlón Catedral 2007 264-265 -4 Refugios 2008 265 -Tetratlón Catedral 2008 266-267 -4 Refugios 2009 267 -Tetratlón Catedral 2009 268-269 -4 Refugios 2010 269-270 -Tetratlón Catedral 2010 270 -4 Refugios 2011 271 7 - Ski Ski Nórdico: 277-284 -Año 2006-2007 278-279 -Año 2007-2008 279-281 -Año 2008-2009 282-283 -Año 2009-2010 283-284 Esquí y competencias de montaña: 285-288 -4to Campeonato Mundial 2008 288-292 -Temporada 2009 292-294 -5to Campeonato Mundial 2009 294-296 -Temporada 2010 296-297 Ski Alpino: 299-300 -KA de diamantes para Cristian Simari Birkner 300-301 -Apenas dos representantes en Suecia 2007 301 -Nuevos triunfos para el “Simari Birkner Ski Team” 301-303 -La Hoya también ingresó al calendario FIS 303 -Suiza volvió al primer lugar en Val d´Isere 2009 303-305 -Apenas tres pruebas FIS en Ushuaia 305 -Canadá brilló en Vancouver 2010 305-306 -Cristian y Belén ganaron el 65º Campeonato Argentino 306-308 El ski alpino Argentino en categoría Cadetes 308-315 -2007 311-312 -2008 312 -2009 312-315 -2010 315 Directores de la escuela de esquí alpino 317 -------------------- Ski y Andinismo 75º Aniversario Memoria 1999-2005 del Club Andino Bariloche Memoria 75 Aniversario Indice Pág. Comisión Directiva 4 Nuestra Memoria-Anuario, por Toncek Arko 6-8 -Primera Cordada Femenina la Fitz Roy y Cerro Torre 12-13 -Un Sueño hecho Realidad, Fitz Roy 3441 mts. y Cerro Torre 3102 mts., febrero 2005, Tina Di Bastista y M.Kambic, por Mónica Kambic Mali 14-20 -Postales del Cerro Fitz Roy, por Rolando Garibotti 21-23 -El Fitz Roy, 3441 mts., estrena ¨Línea di Eleganza¨, Nueva Ruta, Elio Orlando, Luca Fava y Horacio Codó 24-27 -El Cerro Torre, la Egger y la Standhardt, por Rolando Garibotti 28-34 -El Macizo del Fitz Roy, 23.12.2004, Jere, Merlín Lipshitz, W.Rossini, por Walter Rossini 37-39 -Cerro Paine Grande, Segunda Ascensión y Ruta Nueva, 28.10.2000, B.Sourzac y R.Garibotti, por Rolando Garibotti 40-46 -Ascensión Cerro San Valentín, 4060 mts., 23.11.2002, F.Demarchi, M.Mercolli, I.Zanini, N.Montemarano y A.Másperi, por Alessandro Másperi 49-53 -Primera Ascensión en estilo alpino al Cerro Torre, 12.11.2005, E.Salvaterra, A.Beltrami y R.Garibotti, por Rolando Garibotti 54-56 -Argentinos en Himalaya 60-67 -Cho-Oyu, 8201 mts.: Descripción de la montaña y de la ruta; Experiencia personal; Algunas consideraciones acerca del montañismo actual en el Himalaya, 21.04.2002,L.Agüero, M.Ramos y D.Bracali,por Darío Bracali 68-76 -Expedición al Gasherbrum 1, 8035 mts., y Gasherbrum 2, 8068 mts., 23.06.2004, V.Iglesias, A.Triep, R.Rechencq, D.Redmond, V.Herrera, G.Castillo, L.Sánchez, M.Lotfi, P.Reguera, F.Iribas, por Rosana Rechencq 77-86 -Puna de Atacama, Mapa 87 -Las Montañas más altas de América: La catalogalización y primer ascenso; El desafío deportivo; Bibliografía consultada, por Guillermo Almaraz 88-92 -La Puna de Atacama: Las expediciones pioneras y los ascensos de la década del 80; Los últimos 10 años, por Guillermo Almaraz 95-98 -El Monte Pissis: Primer ascenso a la cumbre Oeste y primer argentino a la cumbre principal; Cronología histórica; Expedición Argentina de 1998; El glaciar Norte (de los argentinos); Primer Ascenso a la Cumbre Oeste; Hacia la cumbre Principal 99-104 -Cerro Bonete, la Rioja: 1er. Ascenso de la ruta S.O., 6759 mts., 03.04.2003, La nueva expedición; la ruta de los neveros S.O., 106-111 -Cerro Tres Cruces, 1er. Ascenso de la ruta Sur directa, 6749 mts.: La expedición marplatense; La nueva ruta, 10.10.2000, 112-117 -Ascenso a la cumbre Sur del Walter Penck, 6555 mts.: El nevado; La expedición; La aproximación por el valle del Cazadero. Historias de arreos, huaqueros y cazadores; Por la Pampa de Tito hacia el Walter Penck; El Primer ascenso de la Cumbre Sur, 13.11.1999 118-123 -Ascensión al Incahuasi, 6638 mts.: La Expedición; Hacia la Cumbre, 06.03.1997, M.Sarmiento, A.Giménez y J.Suárez, por Jaime Suárez 124-130 -Incahuasi 6638 mts., Pissis 6882 mts. y Ojos del Salado 6879 mts.: La aclimatación, Fiambalá; Pissis, el volcán más alto del mundo y la segunda cumbre de América; Ojos del Salado, el volcán activo más alto del mundo y la tercera cima de América, 20.11.2002, L.Proverbio, R.Trinchero y P.Bellavitis, por Pablo Bellavitis 133-140 -Volcán Antofalla 6440 mts.: Ubicación; Antecedentes; La expedición; Campamento base ¨Nico¨; Hallazgo Arqueológico; Hacia la cumbre misteriosa, 18.03.2005, G.Almaraz, E.Namur, N.Pantaleón, G.Moreno y J.Suárez, por Jaime Suárez 141-146 -Los topógrafos - Andinistas del Gobierno Argentino: Subcomisión Sánchez; Subcomisión Dionisio Pardo; Subcomisión Onelli;
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