INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Optional Accessories for 1200D ELASTIC GATHERING FOOT (C) AND ELASTIC GATHERER

The elastic gathering foot not only takes the hard work out of attaching elastic, it is also great for making your own custom soutache. The three attachments allow you to sew 7.5 mm, 10 mm, or 13 mm (1/4", 3/8" or 1/2") flat elastic directly onto fabric. Adjust the screw to control the amount of tension or pressure placed on the elastic being gathered.

7.5 mm 200-805-102 10 mm 200-805-205 ADDING ELASTIC GATHERS 13 mm 200-805-308 200-805-009 Evenly apply 7.5, 10 or 13 mm (1/4", 3/8" or 1/2") elastic with the elastic gatherer. The overlocker/ serger quickly sews elastic onto fabric with either a three or four- .

1. Select program: 3 Thread Wide or 4 Thread. Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine or in your instruction manual. Set stitch width dial on widest width. Attach elastic gathering foot.

2. Snap elastic gatherer “A” onto elastic gathering foot. See figure 1.

3. Loosen adjustment screw “B” and insert elastic into gatherer slot. Pull elastic under foot and extend it behind foot. Tighten screw “B” to set amount of gathering. See figure 2.

4. Position guide “C”; the elastic should be on the needle plate edge and next to cutting blades. Place fabric with right side up under elastic in front of cutting blades.

5. Lower needle(s) into fabric. Lower the .

6. Sew first two stitches by hand turning flywheel. Test sew adjusting elastic gatherer for fullness and checking that only fabric not the elastic is being . Sew at medium speed. See figure 3.

NOTE: If you are using elastic lace, insert lace scallop to left side of elastic gatherer. COVER FOOT (M) AND LACE ATTACHMENT GUIDE (H-1)

Efficient and clever, this guide folds perfect 6 mm (1/4") edges. At the same moment it’s hemming, it attaches lace or placed underneath. Use with the cover hem foot.

200-801-304 200-801-005 CREATING LACE-TRIMMED WITH THE COVER HEM

The cover hem stitch is used by professionals as a hemming method. The lace attachment guide will fold under a 6 mm (1/4") hem. The cover hem stitch then sews the lace underneath the folded edge in an efficient manner. This method of hemming is best accomplished when sewing a hem flat. The side is sewn after lace application.

1. Select sewing program: Triple Cover Hem, Cover Hem Wide or Cover Hem Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine. Attach cover hem foot.

2. Fold or finger press approximately 5 cm (2") of the fabric under 6 mm (1/4") to form hem.

3. Place folded edge into H-1 guide. See figure 1.

4. Snap guide onto the foot; raise presser foot and slide fabric underneath presser foot.

5. Place lace on the right side of H-1 guide and underneath presser foot, using tweezers as needed. Lower presser foot. See figure 2.

6. Sew first two stitches by hand turning the flywheel. Hold fabric in your left hand and lace in your right hand and continue sewing. Check fabric and lace placement in H-1 guide. See figure 3. COVER HEM FOOT (M) AND HEM GUIDE (H-2)

Hem edges evenly without measuring, pinning or pressing. Simply insert the fabric and the guide automatically folds and creates a 2.5 cm (1") hem. Use with the cover hem foot.

200-801-108 200-801-304 HEMMING WITH THE COVER HEM

Would you like to sew a hem while the fabric automatically folds itself? The hem guide folds under a 2.5 cm (1") hem, and then the cover hem stitch neatly topstitches the folded fabric. This method of hemming is best accomplished when sewing a hem “flat”. The side seam is sewn after hemming.

1. Select sewing program: Triple Cover Hem, Cover Hem Wide or Cover Hem Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine. Attach cover hem foot.

2. Fold or finger press approximately 5 cm (2") of the fabric under 2.5 cm (1") to form hem.

3. Before snapping H-2 guide onto M foot, place folded fabric edge into H-2 guide. See figure 1.

4. Position fabric under foot and lower the needles into fabric. Lower the presser foot. Snap H-2 guide onto foot. See figure 2. * The old type of foot can also 5. Sew first two stitches by hand turning the be used. flywheel. Hold fabric in your left hand and folded hem in your right hand and continue sewing. Check that fabric is being guided evenly. See figure 3. COVER HEM FOOT (M) AND WRAPPED EDGE GUIDE (H-3)

This guide creates the look of . In addition, it also attaches pre-made bias tape. Hem edges evenly without measuring, pinning or pressing and duplicate ready to wear details easily.

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200-801-304 200-801-201 CREATING WRAPPED EDGES WITH THE COVER HEM

The wrapped edge guide uses pre-folded bias tape. The guide facilitates tape application to a fabric edge and the cover hem stitch secures it in place.

1. Select sewing program: Triple Cover Hem, Cover Hem Wide Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine. Attach cover hem foot.

2. Cut a length of bias tape 3.5 - 4 cm (1-3/8 - 1- 1/2") wide. Press one side* or both sides of tape length under into a finished folded width of 2.5 cm (1").

3. Before snapping H-3 guide onto H foot, place folded edge(s) into H-3 guide. See figure 1. Position the fabric underneath the foot and lower the needles into fabric. Lower the * The old type of presser foot. Snap H-3 guide onto foot. See foot can also be figure 2. used. 3. Sew first two stitches by hand turning the flywheel. Insert fabric into the fold of the bias tape. See figure 3.

NOTE: When sewing a curve, sew two or three stitches and adjust fabric in guide. Continue in same manner around entire curve. Avoid very tight curves.

OPTION: Purchase extra wide double fold tape. Press out the center fold line for best results.

* Pressing only one side under (with the raw edge enclosed within the cover hem stitching) will be less bulky PINTUCKING FOOT (K) AND PINTUCKING GUIDE (K-1)

The pintuck guide lifts the fabric into a tuck and easily creates a corded look without the need for cording.

200-802-202 200-802-006 CREATING RAISED PINTUCKS WITH THE COVER HEM

Creative serging occurs when the cover hem stitch and pintuck foot are combined. The pintuck guide lifts lightweight to medium weight fabric to form a raised pintuck. Rows of pintucks are commonly seen in .

1. Select sewing program: Cover Hem Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine. Attach pintucking foot.

2. Open left side door. Slide slender end of K-1 guide under groove on pintuck foot. Insert on guide into needle plate hole, close left side door. See figure 1. Position fabric (right side up) on top of K-1 guide and under foot. Lower needles into fabric and lower presser foot. See figure 2.

3. Sew first two stitches by hand turning the flywheel. Continue sewing at a medium speed. Use presser foot edge as a guide for next row of pintucks. PINTUCKING FOOT (K) AND CORDING GUIDE (K-2)

Create corded pintucks with . The cording is threaded through the guide and then stitched into the pintuck.

200-802-202 200-802-109 CORDING PINTUCKS WITH THE COVER HEM

A trapunto effect is achieved when the cover hem stitch, pintucking foot and cording guide are used together. The corded pintuck works well on medium weight and knit fabrics.

1. Select sewing program: Cover Hem Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine. Attach pintucking foot.

2. Insert cord or through tubular guide on K-2 guide. Open left side door. Set pin on K-2 guide into needle plate hole, close left side door.

3. Position cord under pintucking foot groove. Leave a 5 cm (2") tail behind foot. See figure 1.

4. Lay fabric (right side up) on top of cord and under presser foot. Lower needles into fabric. Lower the presser foot.

5. Sew first two stitches by hand turning the flywheel. Continue sewing at a medium speed. See figure 2.

HINT:Wrap the cord or yarn end with clear tape for easy insertion into the K-2 guide. CORDING FOOT (Q) AND CORDING GUIDE (K-2)

Couch narrow ribbon, create your own decorative trims, or add bands of soutache to your next garment using the three stitch and the cording guide.

200-802-109 CREATE DECORATIVE TRIM 200-802-305 The Q foot is great for serging over various tapes and cords with decorative threads to create your own decorative trim. Use heavy decorative thread suitable for overlock machines in the upper looper.

1. Select sewing program: 3 Thread Thread and set up machine as indicated on machine or in your instruction manual. Use R1 needle position. Attach taping foot. Move cutting width dial to widest setting and lower cutting blade.

2. Use the K-2 guide with the Q foot to guide the tape/cord. Insert cord or tape through rectangular guide on K-2 guide. Open left side door. Set pin on K-2 guide into needle plate hole, close left side door. See figure 1.

3. Position cord/tape under presser foot, to right side.

4. Sew first two stitches by hand turning flywheel. Sew over cord/tape to make one strand of braid. If you are unable to use the K- 2 guide, you will need to position the tape/ cord properly while it feeds through the machine. See figure 2.

5. Make 3 strands to braid together. Hand sew braid onto project. See figure 3. CHAINSTITCH FOOT (F) AND FAGOTING GUIDE (F-2)

Fagoting is a lovely lacy effect that is created underneath and between two fabrics. The fagoting guide keeps the fabrics separated at an equal distance. Use different colored threads to achieve unique decorative effects.

200-803-306 200-803-007 COVER HEM FAGOTING

Create a pretty lacing effect by fagoting with the cover hem. Two folded edges are joined together by threads over an open area.

1. Select sewing program: Cover Hem Wide Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine. Attach chainstitch foot.

2. Open left side door. Set pin on F-2 guide into needle plate hole, close left side door. See figure 1.

3. Press 13 mm (1/2") to wrong side of fabric (Raw edge should be finished with two or three-thread overlock). Insert one folded edge into each side of F-2 guide (top portion only) and place both fabrics under foot. Lower needles into fabrics. Lower presser foot. See figure 2.

4. Sew first two stitches by hand turning the flywheel. Continue sewing slowly and check if fabric is guided correctly. See figure 3. CHAINSTITCH FOOT (F) AND FELLING GUIDE (F-4)

Strong and durable flatfelled seams on jeans and t-shirts are a breeze to create with the felling guide. Attached to the machine, it guides and folds the fabric.

200-803-203 200-803-306 COVER HEM FLATFELLED SEAMS The flat fell seam is very strong and is ideal for jeans seams and other professionally made garments. Only the upper fabric is folded, reducing the amount of seam thickness.

1. Select sewing program: Cover Hem Wide Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine. Attach chainstitch foot.

2. Open left side door. Set pin on F-4 guide into needle plate hole, close left side door. See figure 1.

3. Place fabric (right side up) against lower guide and position fabric under foot.

4. Fold or finger press approximately 5 cm (2") of the fabric UNDER 1 cm (3/8") to wrong side. Insert fabric into upper guide section and position fabric under foot. See figure 2.

5. Lower needles into fabrics. Lower presser foot.

6. Sew first two stitches by hand turning flywheel.

7. Continue sewing at medium speed; check if fabrics are being folded and guided correctly. See figure 3. FOOT (N) AND TOPSTITCH GUIDE (N-1)

The topstitch covered seam guide is ideal for securing easily frayed fabrics and tidying hems away. Use different colored thread for decorative effects.

200-804-101 REINFORCING SEAMS (FLATFELLED SEAMS) 200-804-008 WITH THE COVER HEM

The reinforced seam is an evenly topstitched seam that is much stronger than a simple overlock seam. It is recommended for activewear, pants, shirts and blouses. Also perfect for transparent fabrics, organdy and sheer crepe.

The seam is sewn first (right sides together) with a three-thread or . Press seam to the right. See figure 1.

1. Select sewing program: Cover Hem Wide or Cover Hem Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine. Attach topstitch foot.

2. Open left side door. Set pin on N-1 guide into needle plate hole; close left side door. See figure 2.

3. Place fabric right side up under presser foot with seam bulk in guide groove. Lower needles into overlock seam. Lower the presser foot. See figure 3.

4. Sew first two stitches by hand turning the flywheel. Sew slowly and accurately in order to keep the seam in the groove. See figure 4. FOOT (D)

The adjustable guide on the blind stitch foot ensures that any weight of fabric is trimmed, overlocked and invisibly hemmed in one quick step. Change the stitch and it becomes a wonderful guide for decorative pintucks, lacy fagoting or flatlocking as seen in ready to wear.

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INVISIBLE HEMMING What a great way to professionally hem a garment! The fabric edge is trimmed, overlocked and invisibly hemmed into place in one easy step.

1. Select sewing program: 3 Thread Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine or in your instruction manual. Set SL at 4. Attach blind hem foot.

2. Fold and press hem under desired amount. Fold it again back toward right side. Leave a 7 mm (1/4") to 1 cm (3/5") extension of hem allowance to the right.

3. Place hem under presser foot with folded edge against guide “A”. See figure 1.

4. Lower presser foot. Slowly lower needle into folded edge. Adjust guide “A” by turning screw “B” so the needle just catches one or two fibers of the fold. See figure 2.

5. Once the guide is adjusted correctly, continue sewing keeping folded edge against guide “A”. See figure 3.

NOTE: Loosen needle thread one number for bulky or crisp fabrics. BLIND HEM FOOT (D) (cont.)

200-806-000

DECORATIVE TRELLIS HEMMING WITH FLATLOCK STITCH

Hem your garments with a beautiful trellis effect. It’s so easy with the blind hem foot and flatlock stitch.

1. Select sewing program: Flatlock 2 or 3 Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine or in your instruction manual. Attach blind hem foot.

2. Fold and press hem under desired amount; fold and press under hem a second time.

3. Place hem under presser foot with second fold and raw edge against guide “A”. See figure 1.

4. Lower presser foot. Slowly lower needle into folded edges. Adjust guide “A” by turning screw “B” so the stitch is formed half on fabric and half on “air”. See figure 2.

5. Continue sewing; keep folded edges against guide “A”. See figure 3.

6. Pull hem flat. Notice the raw edge is encased under the ladder stitch on the underside.

VARIATION: Fold and press hem under desired amount. Fold hem back on itself for a second fold; align second fold with raw hem edge, then sew. The ladder stitch will be on right side. GATHERING FOOT (G)

With the gathering foot it’s easy to create the you want. The bottom fabric is gathered, seamed and overcast to a flat top fabric all in one easy operation.

200-807-001 GATHERING AND ATTACHING TO FLAT FABRIC The gathering foot permits you to gather a ruffle, sew it to a flat fabric and overlock the edges in one operation.

1. Select sewing program: 4 Thread Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine or in your instruction manual. Set SL at 4, DF at 2, Orange tension at 6.0 and Blue tension at 5.0. Attach gathering foot.

2. Place fabric “A” (fabric to be gathered) right side up under foot. Place fabric “B” (flat fabric) right side down into foot slot. See figure 1.

3. To achieve a smooth, clean edge at the beginning, hand trim a notch from both fabric corners approximately 6 mm (1/4") deep and 4 cm (1-1/2") long. See figure 2.

4. Lower needles into fabrics. Lower presser foot.

5. Sew first two stitches by hand turning flywheel. Continue to sew using your right hand to hold upper fabric and your left hand to hold lower fabric. Be careful not to hold lower fabric too firmly, preventing it from gathering to its maximum. See figure 3. BELT LOOP FOOT (L)

Easily duplicate the belt loops found in the garment industry using a wide or triple cover hem stitch. This foot automatically folds under bias strip edges for belt loops, decorative accents, loops, narrow straps, etc. The possibilities are limited only by your imagination.

200-808-002 CREATING BELT LOOP DECORATIVE ACCENTS WITH THE COVER HEM

Duplicate the belt loops found in the garment industry. The belt loop foot L folds under bias tape, and the cover hem stitch then topstitches it.

1. Select sewing program: Triple Cover Hem or Cover Hem Wide Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine

2. Cut a strip of bias tape 2.7 cm (l-1/8") wide. Cut one end at a 45° angle. Insert cut angle (fabric right side up) into belt loop foot. See figure 1. Pull bias tape under foot and extend it behind foot. See figure 2.

3. Attach belt loop foot.

4. Lower needles into bias tape. Lower the presser foot. Be sure both edges of bias are turned under before stitching.

5. Sew first two stitches by hand turning the flywheel. Sew belt loops at a medium speed. See figure 3.

VARIATION 1: Sew belt loops directly onto fabric for a decorative effect. Place a medium to heavy weight fabric underneath foot. Use a stabilizer on fabric to prevent puckering. See figure 4.

VARIATION 2: Sew belt loops. Use a with clear monofilament needle thread to attach belt loops to fabric surface for decorative effect. BEADING FOOT (P)

Beaded trims add that special touch to any project. Deep grooves on the bottom of the pearl foot guide strands of pearls or beads perfectly into place and are secured with a flatlock stitch.

200-809-003 FLATLOCK PEARLS/BEADS ONTO FABRIC Pearls add that special touch to evening wear and casual wear. Sewing on pearls and beads with a flatlock is effortless and they may also be applied to ready-made garments.

1. Select sewing program: Flatlock 2 Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine or in your instruction manual. Attach beading foot.

2. Set SL between 2.5 and 4. Stitch length depends on pearl size with 4 mm diameter maximum.

3. Draw a line with washable fabric marker for pearl application. Fold fabric with wrong sides together on line. Place fold under presser foot about 3 mm (1/8") from needle plate edge. Lower needle into fabric. See figure 1.

4. Place pearls under foot groove and lower presser foot. See figure 2.

5. Sew first two stitches by hand turning flywheel. Continue sewing; avoid puckering by holding pearls behind foot. Remember, the needle should catch only 3 mm (1/8") of the fold so fabric will lay flat. See figure 3.

6. Pull fabric flat.

VARIATION: Add pearls to a : Use a Narrow Hem 3 to finish edge before attaching pearls. Proceed in same method as above, eliminating drawing line for placement. ADJUSTABLE BIAS BINDER FOOT (M)

This adjustable foot allows you to attach 10 mm to 40 mm wide bias tape. Creating the look you want has never been easier.

ATTACHING PRE-FOLDED BIAS TAPE TO AN 200-810-007 EDGE

The adjustable bias binder foot uses pre-folded bias tape and accommodates different bias widths. The foot facilitates the attachment of onto a lightweight or medium weight fabric edge using the chain stitch.

1. Select sewing program: Chain Stitch Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine. Attach bias binder foot.

2. Use any size of pre-folded bias tape. Cut one end at a 45° angle. Insert cut angle into guide “A”. See figure 1.

3. Pull bias tape under foot and extend it behind foot. Adjust the guide opening with screw “B” until bias tape folded edges are slightly touching left side of guide. Adjust position of bias guide with screw “C”. See figure 2.

4. Lower needle into bias tape. Check screw “C” adjustment. Insert fabric edge into fold of bias tape. Lower the presser foot.

5. Sew first two stitches by hand turning the flywheel. Sew at a slow speed holding fabric in left hand and bias tape in right hand. When sewing a curve, lower needle, raise foot and reposition fabric against guide every two or three stitches. Lower foot and continue in same manner around entire curve. Avoid very tight curves. See figure 3.

NOTE: Attach bias tape with the cover hem stitch using the same method. See figure 4. THREAD GUIDE FOR AND INDUSTRIAL CONES

Prefer using industrial cone thread? Place unusually large thread cones behind the machine on the table and attach the guide to the antenna for smooth feeding of thread.

Attach this extra guide to the antenna when using unusually large cones of thread or heavy decorative threads. CLOTH GUIDE

Attached to the machine, it guides curved fabric to straight edged, and is ideal for making table linens and bags with curves.

SEWING TOGETHER CURVED AND STRAIGHT 200-812-009 EDGES

This guide helps you to serge a curved edge and a straight edge together. It is a technique seen in commercially made home decor items such as knife edge pillows and bedspreads.

1. Select sewing program: 4 Thread Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine or in your instruction manual. Attach A/B presser foot.

2. Secure attachment holder base and attachment holder onto machine.

3. Secure cloth guide onto attachment holder. See figure 1. 4. Position curved fabric, right side down, against top portion of guide. Position flat fabric, right side up, against bottom portion of guide. Extend both fabrics under presser foot. Lower needles into fabrics. Lower presser foot. See figure 2.

200-812-102 5. Sew first two stitches by hand turning flywheel. Continue sewing with both fabric edges against the guide, holding the top fabric with your left hand and the bottom fabric with your right hand. It is very important that curved edge remains in contact with the guide while being sewn. See figure 3. TAPE BINDER

The tape binder clips onto the front of the machine and guides and folds 40 mm bias tape perfectly, doing away the need to pre-iron. Ideal for sewing straight fabrics to curved, finish difficult t-shirt , etc with ease.

200-813-000 CREATING AND ATTACHING BIAS BINDING The bias binder attachment neatly folds a bias strip and binds fabric edges. It is the perfect finish 200-813-103 for blankets, placemats and jackets. The binding is secured with the two thread chain stitch.

1. Select sewing program: Chain Stitch Thread and set up machine as indicated on the machine. Attach foot and attachment holder. See figure 1.

2. Cut a strip of bias tape 4 cm (1-1/2") wide. Cut one end at a 45° angle. Insert cut angle into bias binder. Right side of fabric should face machine as it enters binder. Check that fabric is inserted correctly. Secure bias binder onto holder. See figure 2.

3. Place bias tape under presser foot. Lower needle into folded bias tape. If necessary, reposition bias binder attachment to have only 2 mm (1/8") of folded bias on left side of needle. See figure 3.

4. Insert fabric edge into slot between the folded bias tape. Lower the presser foot.

5. Sew first two stitches by hand turning flywheel. Continue sewing at a medium speed. Check if fabric and tape are feeding correctly. Readjust binder position when necessary. See figure 4.