1.0 INTRODUCTION Section 1, Table 1: Arranged according to geographical position Table 2* Table 3** No. Name Latitude Longitude No. No. Area in Acres Area in Hectares 1.1 Ailsa Craig 55º 15N 05º 07W 111 19 245 99 1.2 Sanda 55º 17N 05º 35W 93 54 373 151 1.3 Holy Island 55º 32N 05º 04W 75 20 625 253 1.4 Arran 55º 35N 05º 15W 7 2 106750 43201 1.5 Little Cumbrae Island 55º 43N 04º 57W 64 53 773 313 1.6 Great Cumbrae 55º 46N 04º 55W 39 49 2886 1168 1.7 Inchmarnock 55º 47N 05º 09W 73 106 657 266 1.8 Bute 55º 49N 05º 06W 11 24 30188 12217 *Table 2: The islands arranged in order of magnitude **Table 3: The islands arranged in order of height Introduction Here, within a short distance of Scotland’s Campbeltown Loch and issues its own postage greatest conurbation, are eight fascinating and stamps, is not by denition a true island as it can diverse islands. Turn left on the Clyde at Cloch be reached at low water over a shingle causeway Point and travel ‘doon the watter’ to Bute, guard (dangerous when the tide comes in). It is worth of the western entrance, with Inchmarnock a visit because there are seven caves and the fth tucked behind it. The eastern sentinels are the conceals a famous mural of Christ crucied which Cumbraes, Great and Little. Ahead and beyond, was painted in secret by a local artist, Alexander the towering serrated ridge of Arran dominates MacKinnon in 1887. the entire Firth, dwarng even the high peak of On the Ayrshire coast by Ardrossan harbour Holy Island. Further out, lonely and conspicuous ve species of gull nest on low-lying Horse in the southern reaches of the Firth, stands Ailsa Island and, likewise, colonies of common, Craig – familiarly referred to as Paddy’s Milestone sandwich and arctic tern nest on Lady Isle off and on the horizon, a speck at the foot of the Troon. There are no other islets on this coast Mull of Kintyre, is mysterious Sanda Island. and the Solway Firth is also short of islands. This area, with its long sea-lochs, offers a The largest group is at Fleet Bay – Murray’s marvellous environment for inshore sailing. The Isles, Ardwall Island and Barlocco Island. longest of these lochs – longer than Loch Long – At Kirkcudbright Bay Little Ross is off the Ross is Loch Fyne, stretching from the north of Arran headland and Hestan Island is in the centre to well beyond Inveraray. The shing town of of shallow, tidal Auchencairn Bay. Little Ross Tarbert is the main port on this loch and source supports a Stevenson lighthouse which has been of the world-famous Loch Fyne kippers. The automatic since 1961. Two lighthouse-keepers’ larger ‘islands’ in the vicinity, Barmore and Eilean houses are owned by Dr S R Wild of Edinburgh. Aoidhe, are in fact peninsulas and the only islets The islet was the scene of a nasty murder in possibly worthy of the name are Eilean Buidhe 1960: but that’s another story. and Eilean a’ Bhuic opposite Tarbert and Eilean a’ Chromhraig just south of the entrance. Halfway up the loch in Loch Gilp is Duncuan Island with, to the east of it, another drying 1.1 Ailsa Craig island – Eilean Mór. However, alongside Eilean Mór is the strip of Liath Eilean with a pleasant (G. aillse creag – fairy rock). Referred to locally as Paddy’s anchorage in between. Milestone but sometimes known as creag Ealasaid (G. – Elizabeth’s rock). In the old Irish tale of ‘Buioe Suibne’ it is In the upper reaches there is Glas Eilean off called carraig Alastair (G. – Alastair’s rock). Port Ann with Eilean Aoghainn in the centre of the loch and overlooked by Minard Castle. OS Maps: 1:50000 Sheet 76 1:25000 Sheet 326 1:10000 The islets of the Kilbrannan Sound are equally (NX 09) Admiralty Chart: 1:75000 No.2126 insignicant – two tiny islets on the coast of the Mull of Kintyre – Thorn Isle and Island Area: 99ha (245 acres) Ross. Davaar, which guards the entrance to Height: 338m (1109 ft) [2] THE SCOTTISH ISLANDS AILSA CRAIG 1.1 F i r t h o f C l y d e Disused Foghorn Swine Eagle's Seat Cave Red Gair Jetty Boating Stone Bare Stack Swine Holes (Caves) Ashydoo Craig Ashydoo Church Nettley Howe Pier 338 The Cairn Highlandman's Walk Foreland Point Castle Comb Garra Loch Spot of South Port Grass Castle Well Fishermen's Camp Castle Doras Garraloo (ruin) The Rig Yett Water Cave Track of Macanall's Mineral Railway Stranny Point Cave Kennedy's Nags Craignawn Rotten Nick Little Ailsa Black Gair Dalton's Cove Trammins The Bour Trees Disused Foghorn 1 km 1/2 mile AILSA CRAIG Owner: Sold by Cassilis Estates (Marquess of known as microgranite. In the north-east there Ailsa) in 2013 for a reputed £1.5 million. The is a seam of reibickite, a particularly ne-grained lighthouse property with four houses is owned by micro-granite, from which 70% of the world's Bobby Sandhu. curling stones are made. These were cut on the island and polished on the mainland, but the Population: From 19th century to mid-20th quarries are now mostly disused even for0101ailC4 building century aSection small 1population of quarrymen AILSA CRAIG stone. The oor of the Chapel of the Thistle in and families. 1881–29. 1891–27. 1931–11. St Giles Cathedral, Edinburgh, is made of this 1961–10. 1971–3 (lighthouse keepers). 1981–2. beautiful Ailsa Craig granite. Much of the island 1991–0 (lighthouse automatic). 2011–0. is columnar basalt, sometimes forming columns Geology: Mainly an acid igneous rock containing 120 metres (400ft) in height. ne-grained crystals of quartz, mica and feldspar, THE SCOTTISHSECTION ISLANDS ONE [3] 1.1 AILSA CRAIG has also (temporarily?) reduced the rabbit population. By 1996 black guillemots and shelduck had returned to nest and occasional pufns had been seen, but it was not until 2002 that it was certain that a few pufns had at last established nest-burrows on the island and started breeding again. Ailsa Craig is noted for its immense AILSA CRAIG FROM DUNURE CASTLE, SEAT OF THE KENNEDYS gannet colony which has been there since at least 1526. Recently nearly 40,000 History: An old square peel-tower on the island breeding pairs of gannets were reported which was almost certainly built by the Hamiltons to is about 5% of the gannet population of the prevent Phillip II of Spain taking the island in world. They are mainly on the south-west side. support of the Catholics during the Reformation. Numerous guillemots, kittiwakes and gulls are The lighthouse was built in 1868 by the also to be found and blackbirds, song-thrushes, Stevensons. wheatears and willow warblers have been seen. Pipits may be found on the steep slopes above the Wildlife: In 2004 the island became an RSPB smooth rock walls. Reserve by invitation of the Marquess. It was The island’s slow worms, which hide under the already a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a rocks, are considered the largest in Europe and European Special Protection Area. there is a wide variety of plant life. In places the At one time some Soay sheep from St Kilda cliffs are white with the scented owers of scurvy (neolithic, dark-brown, small and hardy) were grass spotted here and there with red lychnis. bred here. Rabbits were said to have been brought The rose-coloured owers of the tree mallow, in by the quarrymen to supplement their diet. Lavatera arborea, can be seen growing 2–3m high These have not been as big a problem, however, as near the buildings but warmer weather is now the brown rats which arrived in 1889 when ships unfortunately encouraging this plant to spread were ferrying materials and supplies to the newly across the island and block the puffins’ nesting built lighthouse. (The quarrymen later claimed holes (See Bass Rock, Section 12-Appendix). that the rats and rabbits were interbreeding!) Before the brown rats moved in there were * * * at least 250,000 pairs of pufns on the island. An ornithologist, Robert Gray, reported in the AILSA CRAIG is the Lowlands’ answer to the 1860s that when he disturbed the pufns ‘for a Hebridean and Orcadian stacks, those great time their numbers seemed so great as to cause a chunks of rock rearing out of the sea. Its basalt bewildering darkness.’ and columnar trap rises abruptly from sea level By 1990 the rats had successfully driven and soars to a height of nearly 340m – over many birds off the island and not a single pufn 1100 feet. When its ethereal shape materialises had been seen since 1984. So in 1991 a rat out of the mist one can understand it being eradication programme was instituted by the Marquess of Ailsa, Glasgow University and Scottish Natural Heritage. Poison to kill the rats, three tons of Warfarin, was airlifted by helicopter from HMS Gannet, Prestwick, and distributed on the island in the Spring. ‘Some of it was put in bait boxes and a lot went straight into the rat holes,’ said Dr Zonfrillo, a leading ornithologist member of the working group. The rats died in their burrows so there were no rat carcasses strewn about. The treatment seems to have worked and it THE JETTY ON AILSA CRAIG [4] THE SCOTTISH ISLANDS SANDA ISLAND 1.2 named fairy rock by some ancient Celt.