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Cover April.Indd APRIL 2008 www.passportmagazine.ru Easter Orthodox Style! TThehe PPricerice ooff RRealeal EEstatestate inin SochiSochi TThehe ChangingChanging FaceFace ofof MoscowMoscow RRussianussian RRoadoad RRageage AAustrianustrian WWinesines advertising Contents 4 Goings On Faberge: A Symbol of Russian Easter Moscow Fotobiennale The Golden Mask Billy’s Band Easter Festival Russian Films: Between Victory and Defeat Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street Thank you, Zemfira! 10 Travel Ray Nayler travels to Kazan in a search for the border between East and West. Neil McGowan finds it (literally) in Ekaterinburg. 14 A Day Out in Moscow Let Ian Mitchell take you to Novodevichy Cemetery. (You won’t believe who’s buried there...) Plus, Ray Nayler telld you where you can take the dark blue line. 18 Art Olga Slobodkina-von Brommsen explores the world of Oscar Rabin. Plus, Russian performance artist Andrei Bartenev talks to Passport. 22 Outlook James Blake examines what’s ahead for Dmitry Medvedev. 24 What goes up... Olga Mironenko on real estate prices in Sochi. Duma deputy Svishchov talks about hitting the slopes. Plus, James Brooke on Rebuilding Russia. 30 Cover Story It’s Easter, Russian Orthodox-style! 32 Business Intellectual property in Russia. Plus, the booming stock market. 36 Wine & Dine The Hills are Alive One Night In … Vienna 42 Soup’s On Frenchman Thomas Vincent Bluy, 33, is the new executive chef at Moscow’s Most Cafe. Recently, he couldn’t stand the heat and got out of the kitchen for a moment to talk to Passport. 48 Community Ross Hunter and Fred Flintstone compare notes on the Moscow driving experience. 52 Out & About They jumped so high... Indian Culture in Concert Singing Politicians Hallelujah to Love Forever and Again - Turetsky Choir 56 The Last Word Andrew Sherlock on living and working in Russia. Letter from the Publisher In Russia, March comes in like a lion and goes out like... a slightly less ferocious lion. So that leaves us waiting until April to get that first whiff of spring. This issue reflects what we expect of the new season — regeneration, the earth coming back to life, and waking up after a long winter slumber. In keeping with the season, Passport has also been renewed: In March, we welcomed a new editor, Isabelle Hale, into our fold. Under Isabelle’s leadership, we expect Passport to bloom. In the same vein, we have devoted the April issue to a holiday that celebrates rebirth and also happens to be the holiest day on the Russian Orthodox calendar, Easter. Ian Mitchell explores the traditions of this holiday in our cover story (page 30). On a less pious note, if spring fever has got you itching to get out, then this issue has a range of suggested destinations, near and far — from Kazan (page 10) and Ekaterinburg (page 12) to Moscow’s Novodevichy Cemetery (page 14). You might also consider a pied-a-terre in Sochi (we hear the dacha next door to Vladimir Vladimirovich’s is available...), where Olga Mironenko shines a spotlight on the real estate market in the 2014 Winter Olympics’ host city (page 24). Plus Jacob An- drews examines Russia’s booming investment scene (page 34), and it’s good thing, too — you’ll need it to buy that second home in Sochi. And don’t worry about the govern- ment — James Blake gives the economic outlook for the Medvedev years (page 22), while State Duma Deputy Dmitri Svishchov discusses the future of recreational sport in Russia (page 26). Also in this issue: Ray Nayler goes underground to explore the Moscow metro’s blue John Ortega line (page 16), while back above ground James Brooke examines the changing face of Owner and Publisher Moscow in his new column, Rebuilding Russia (page 28). Meanwhile, Ross Hunter and Fred Flintstone compare notes on driving in their respective home towns of Moscow and Bedrock (page 48). Finally, if all that traveling leaves you with an appetite, get some food suggestions from Passport Wine & Dine editor Charles Borden (page 40) as well as from longtime Moscow resident (and Passport columnist!) Linda Lippner (page 50). Then wash it all down with a glass of Austrian wine (page 36). Passport’s April issue offers all that and then some, so put up your feet, give the Easter bunny a pat on the head, and enjoy! HAPPY EASTER! photo by Ian Mitchel Owner and Publisher Designer Daniel Klein, Business John Ortega, +7 (985) 784-2834 Andrey Vodenikov [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Contributors Maria Barleben, James Blake, James Brooke, Editor in Chief Copy Editor Isabella Hale, +7 (917) 586-5326 Ross Hunter, Alevtina Kashitsina, Linda Lippner, Linda Lippner Vladimir Kozlov, Claire Marsden, Neil McGowan, [email protected] Photographers Olga Mironenko, Ian Mitchell, Ray Nayler, Acting Editor Alex Gorov, Alevtina Kashitsina, Olga Slobodkina-von Bromssen. Anna Kulyagina, +7 (903) 243-1318 Sergei Koshkin, Alexei Zhukov,, Webmaster [email protected] Alexey Timokhin Contributing Editors Arts & Community Editor [email protected] Alevtina Kashitsina Charles Borden, Wine and Dine Accounting and Legal Services [email protected] [email protected] Vista Foreign Business Support Trubnaya St. 25/1, Moscow +7 (495) 933-7822 Editorial Address: Circulation 25,000. Published by OOO Passport Magazine. 42 Volgogradsky Prospekt, Bldg. 23 All rights reserved. Office 013. 1st floor This publication is registered by the Press Ministry No. 77- 109316 Moscow, Russia Tel. +7 (495) 620-0888 18639. 08.10.04 Printed by Mozhaysky Poligrafichesky Kombinat Tel/ Fax: (495) 221-2677 93 Mir Street, 143200 Mozhaysk, Russia www.passportmagazine.ru Send your comments to [email protected] 2 April 2008 MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY BALLET BALLET Spartak Don Quixote DANCE MUSIC by L. Minkus Gloria Gaynor ROCK MUSIC by A. Khachaturian Moscow Music Stanislavsky and B1 Maximum Zemfi ra (Russia) DANCE Bolshoi Theater Nemirovich-Danchenko Theater 21:00 Armenian stars’ concert 1Olimpisky Sports Comples 2Nuestro Tango Orchestra (Russia) 3 19:00 4 5 6 19:00 State Kremlin Palace 19:00 Mir Concert Hall FOLK DANCE FOLK MUSIC 19:00 RUSSIAN FASHION WEEK, 20:00 Russian Ballet “Kostroma” DANCE MUSICo Terem Quartet (St. Petersburg) March 30 to April 6 National Russian Show Nouvelle Vague (France) State Kremlin Palace State Kremlin Palace Zemfi ra B1 Maximum 19:00 19:00 21:00 SPACE EXPLORATION DAY BALLET CLASSICAL MUSIC OPERA Seagull Birthday of Helikon opera theater Carmen (in French) based on compositions GOLDEN MASK FESTOVA; BALLET ROCK MUSIC Helikon Opera by Georges Bizet by D. Shostakovich, P. Tchai- Le Petit Prince DANCE La Bayadere Andrey Makarevich and Creol 19:00 Galina Vishnevskaya Opera Center 7kovsky, A. Scriabin, 8Tango Emocion (Russia) 9 10 11 12 13(St. Petersburg Puppet by L. Minkus Tango Orchestra 19:00 I. Glenny. Theater) Mir concert hall Bolshoi Theater MHAT im. Gorkogo Theater SPORTS Moscow Music Stanislavsky ROCK MUSIC Mossovet Theater 19:00 19:00 19:00 Davis Cup (Tennis) quarterfi nals and Nemirovich-Danchenko Boris Grebenschikov and Aquarium 19:00 Russia vs. Czech Republic Theater (Russia) Olimpisky Stadium 19:00 B1 Maximum 21:00 MODERN DANCE FOR KIDS THEATER Romeo and Juliet Snow White and the Seven Planet (Evgeny Grishkovets BALLET Deutsche Opera am Rein Dwarfs (in Russian) GALA MUSICAL ROCK MUSIC Theater) Sleeping Beauty (Dusseldorf) At Yugo-Zapad Theater Golden Mask Theater Awards Mamma Mia! Gary Moore 14in Russian 15 16 17by P. Tchaikovsky 18 19(Festival of Modern German 2014:00 Moscow Music Stanislavsky and MDM B1 Maxumum Theater Center at Strastnoi Bolshoi Theater Choreography) Kudrinka Dance Ensemble Nemirovich-Danchenko Theater 19:00 21:00 Bulvar 19:00 19:00 Moscow Music Stanislavsky and 16:00 21:00 Nemirovich-Danchenko Theater See www.kudrinkakids.com 19:00 for location. BALLET OPERA CLASSICAL MUSIC Scheherazade, Bolero, Cosi fan tutte SPORTS OPERA POPULAR MUSIC Eliso Virsaladze (Piano) Polovtsian Dances POPULAR MUSIC by W. A. Mozart Federation Cup (Tennis) 21 22Carmen 23Gregory Leps (Russia) 24Compositions of F. Schubert, 25by N. Rimsky-Korsakov, M. Ravel, 26 27Alphaville (Germany) Moscow Music Stanislavsky Russia vs. US by G. Bizet MHAT im. Gorkogo Theater J. Brahms A. Borodin State Kremlin Palace and Nemirovich-Danchenko Olimpisky Sports Complex Bolshoi Theater 19:00 Grand Hall of Conservatory Imperial Russian Ballet 19:00 Theater Until April 27 19:00 19:00 Novaya Opera 19:00 19:00 Moscow Philhamonia hosting Die Berliner Philharmoniker Conductor: Simon Rattle BALLET (Germany) Swan Lake POPULAR MUSIC 28 29 Soloist:30 Vadim Repin (violin, Russia) 31 1 2 3 by P. Tchaikovsky PussyCat Dolls Compositions by L. van Beethoven, State Kremlin Palace Olimpysky Sports Complex D. Shostakovich. 19:00 19:00 Grand Hall of Conservatory 17: 00 Gloria Gaynor Nuestro Tango Orchestra Space Exploration Day Editor’s Choice Nouvelle Vague and their new album Bande A Part ouvelle Vague is a French musical collective led by Marc Collin and Olivier Libaux. Their album Nresurrected New Wave classics and reinterpreted them in a bossa nova style. Songs were stripped down to their acoustic arrangements with lithe shaker rhythms achieved by gathering a parade of chanteuses from all over the world (six French, one Brazilian and one New Yorker) to cover bands including XTC, Modern English, The Clash, Joy Division and The Undertones. The various female singers on Nouvelle Vague only performed songs they had never heard before, to ensure that each cover would have a unique quality. Their second album, Bande à Part, includes versions of “Ever Fallen in Love?” by the Buzzcocks, New Order’s “Blue Monday,” Echo and the Bunnymen’s “The Killing Moon,” and “Heart of Glass” by Blondie. Current and former members and contributors include many French artists now well-known in their own right, including such figures of the so-called “renouveau de la chanson francaise” (renewal of French chanson) as Anaïs Croze, Camille Dalmais, Phoebe Killdeer, Melanie Pain, and Marina Celeste.
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