Opinion: On the Road to Dheu i Bardhë

Jan 20 - Feb 2, 2012 Issue No. 80 www.prishtinainsight.com Price € 1

NEWS SkiSki GuideGuide 20122012 Pacolli Helps Free Flying Lobbyist It’sIt’s timetime againagain toto dustdust ofof thosethose skiski clothesclothes andand headhead toto higherhigher altitudesaltitudes inin searchsearch ofof thethe perfectperfect piste,piste, oror spaspa resort.resort. PrishtinaPrishtina InsightInsight bringsbrings youyou aa guideguide toto thethe bestbest thethe regionregion hashas toto offer.offer.

> page 3 NEWS EU Launches Kosovo Visa Liberalisation Dialogue > page 4 NEWS Greek Crisis Turns Albanian Thoughts See Page 7-10 Foto by: Snownjeri Kosova Snownjeri by: Foto to Home Landmark Kosovo Hotel Sits > page 5 NEIGHBOURHOOD Croatia EU Vote on ‘Usurped’ Land Uncertain Despite Businessmen Bedri Selmani and MP Shaip Muja, both former advisors to Hashim Thaci, are accused of usurping prime Govt Optimism real estate in Prishtina. Today, as well as Selmani’s nesses, told Prishtina Insight that of the site. “PAK has never pro- > page 6 By Parim Olluri and Tinka Kurti hotel, the site also hosts a restau- the Hotel Victory and Te Rrethi, duced a monitoring report on the rant and offices owned and occu- the Muja family business, have SOE Auto Prishtina because it has CULTURE otel Victory, with its rooftop pied by members of the Muja fam- illegally occupied the site since been usurped and was never com- model of the Statue of ily. 1999. As a result, no rent has been mercialized,” Kaloshi explained. Serb Police HLiberty, is one of the most They include Shaip Muja, a paid to PAK. It remains unclear when the familiar sights in Prishtina. A reg- deputy in parliament and until “SOE Auto Prishtina has been socially owned enterprise will be Squash Pioneer ular venue for government func- recently an advisor to Thaci. Muja usurped by two private companies privatised and how PAK intends to Artistic Squat tions, it hosted Prime Minister was elected to parliament in 2010 since 1999,” Ylli Kaloshi, the reclaim land that it says is illegal- Hashim Thaci’s launch of a “zero for Thaci’s Democratic Party of agency’s spokesperson, said, nam- ly occupied. > page 11 tolerance policy” against corrup- Kosovo, PDK, after stepping down ing the two as Hotel Victory and PAK must first await the out- tion in 2010. as the PM’s advisor. Te Rethi. come of its lawsuit filed against But an investigation by A number of businesses regis- The surface area owned by the the alleged usurpers. “The privati- Prishtina Insight has uncovered tered in the name of Muja and his socially owned enterprise, accord- zation of this enterprise depends evidence that the hotel lies on land brothers are based at the address, ing to PAK, is more than 1.5 on the proceedings of our lawsuit that owner Bedri Selmani seized according to the official business hectares and lies at the main in the Special Chamber of the Kosovo’s only English-language in the chaos of the immediate registry. roundabout at the entrance to Supreme Court of Kosovo,” the newspaper is available: post-war period and which The Privatisation Agency of Prishtina. agency spokesperson said. allegedly still belongs to a socially Kosovo, PAK, which is tasked with The agency has not carried out Delivered to owned enterprise. managing publicly owned busi- or produced a monitoring report continues page 2 Your Door

Islam in Kosovo Proves no Bar Serbia Mulls Price of Extending From Newsstands to Alcohol Elections to Kosovo across Kosovo

The average citizen of Kosovo drinks 13 Serbia's Ministry of Public Sent To litres of beer, one litre of wine and 150ml of Administration and Local Government is Your Inbox brandy, known as rakia, each year, accord- busy preparing electoral rolls. The job ing to analysis of official customs figures. must be done by March 7 when the country, While this remains well below Russian – according to election law, is to call parlia- From and Western European – standards, it is mentary and local elections, which then our partners significantly more than is drunk in most must be held no later than May 6. news countries in the Muslim... page 3 news But it remains unclear... page 4 see page 16 for more info

is supported by: 2 Jan 20 - Feb 2, 2012 news Landmark Kosovo Hotel Sits on ‘Usurped’ Land from page 1 Aziz Sefedini, former director of Sefedini said. “But after a while, in Auto Prishtina, was dissatisfied June 1999, people started showing While Shaip Muja denies illegal- with the minister’s decision. up. ly occupying the site, maintaining Three years later, in 2002, in a “They took me once to Kolovica that his property lies outside the memo sent to Chief of Police of [a village outside Prishtina] where zone owned by Auto Prishtina, the UN authority in Kosovo, someone asked me questions like, Selmani refused to comment, say- UNMIK, Stephan Feller, he ‘Do you know Rrustem Mustafa ing he was abroad. detailed alleged legal violations and Zahir Pajaziti [KLA fighters], that had occurred. the people who liberated us?’ Seized 13 years ago: Sefedini said he had been “They asked me to sign a state- removed from his post as a compa- ment in which I admitted I was lib- The agency’s claim that Selmani ny director and Auto Prishtina’s erated by NATO and not by the is illegally occupying socially properties had been usurped. KLA?” Sefedini added. “Signing owned property has received con- According to him, Selmani had such statements was not advisable To the victor the spoils? Is Hotel Victory built on usurped land? firmation from documents in the registered part of the SOE Auto in 1999”. proving that his company, Doni “Behind Selmani are Hashim from PAK’s predecessor, the Prishtina as his own private prop- “Later I understood that my Export Import, paid 2,000 euro in Thaci, Kadri Veseli, Azem Syla, Kosovo Trust Agency, obtained by erty and had named it “Victory”. interrogator was Rrustem property tax per year for this prop- Rrustem Mutafa. How could any- Prishtina Insight. He also said that Shaip Muja had Mustafa,” Sefedini continued. erty. one otherwise usurp one-and-a- A KTA letter from 2004 to also built Te Rrethi, a 500-square- “I would also understand anoth- Although, according to the offi- half hectares in a prime Prishtina Selmani reads: “The KTA audit in metre restaurant, on the property er thing: In ‘99 a vicious war was cial business registry Doni Export location without having to pay a April 2004 of your relationship of SOE Auto Prishtina. being waged between the Llap and is registered under the name of dime for its use?” Selimi asked. with the Auto Prishtina SOE has Sefedini said he had come under Drenica regions over who would Naser Reshani. When asked about the accusa- not recognised the validity of the pressure to relinquish his directo- usurp Auto Prishtina.” “If I am a usurper, how come I tion, Mustafa denied any strong 05/04/2000 ‘Joint Venture rial position. Sefedini was referring to two paid municipal taxes year after connection to Selmani. The others Agreement’ and you have been “Selmani, then Thaci’s econom- key administrative zones of the year since 1999 and have received did not respond to Prishtina advised at once to reach a contrac- ic advisor, wanted to take over this KLA. Mustafa was then a senior no claim from any institution say- Insight’s questions. tual agreement.” This agreement, SOE and exerted pressure to have official for the Llap region. ing I occupied this property?” Selimi said he had had problems according to Selmani, gave him me removed,” Sefedini wrote on 30 Mustafa, who is currently a Vice Muja asked. with Selmani in the past. the right to use the site. September, 2002. President of the PDK, says Muja said properties lying out- Auto Prishtina was the sole Sefedini told Prishtina Insight “Selmani, who is himself an Sefedini may have confused him side the perimeter fence of the authorised dealer and service that he had sent a letter to Azem usurper, filed a lawsuit against me, with someone else. “I have no his- Hotel Victory are not owned by garage for German Magirus vehi- Syla back in 1999 expressing his alleging that I had usurped his tory with that man. I don’t know Auto Pristina. cles until 1991 when its activities discontent with the decisions enterprise’s property,” he recalled, him. Who knows how he confused “I’m no usurper because at no were terminated and all employ- issued by the Provisional adding. “I had thrown the investi- me up with someone else?” he point has there been any evidence ees were dismissed. It was also an Government of Kosovo. gator out because he was asked. that it is somebody else’s proper- authorized dealer and service “In November [1999], I wrote to Selmani’s own nephew.” Regarding the location on which ty,” he continued. garage for Zastava, Iveco and Opel Syla. I told him that my removal Prishtina Insight has seen a Hotel Victory was constructed, This evidence is disputed, how- vehicles. without a proper decision repre- copy of the lawsuit filed by Mustafa says he was not aware it ever, by PAK and appears to con- Currently, some 30 to 40 employ- sented a legal violation,” said Selmani at the Supreme Court was ever a socially owned proper- tradict information collected by ees receive salaries from Auto Sefedini, adding that he never claiming that the socially owned ty. “I don’t know of any usurpation Prishtina Insight. Prishtina, from revenues collected received a response to his official enterprise had broken a contract. of this building,” he said. Kosovo’s cadastral office told from those properties within the memorandum. This referred to an April 5, 2000 “It may be true. I don’t know. I this newspaper that Te Rrethi was site that are paying rent. When He also sent another letter to the contract signed between the stay there more than anywhere in fact part of the same plot as the this company operated as a vehicle Kosovo Assembly, the President investor, Auto Kosova, the proper- else because it is very accessible hotel and was owned by Auto service shop it employed around and the UNMIK Administrator, ty of Selmani, and Auto Prishtina. by car,” Mustafa said, during a Prishtina. 70 people. suggesting that the premises of According to this agreement, chance meeting with Prishtina A cadastral map, obtained by the The facilities of this socially the building could better be used Selmani was to pay Auto Prishtina Insight at Hotel Victory. newspaper, also shows the restau- owned enterprise were initially by the Kosovo Police, owing to its 19,000 euro a month and the money He said that he knew Selmani rant inside the same plot. used in July 1999 by the provision- strategic location. was to be shared by all the employ- and they have coffee together but Prime Minister Thaci’s current al government of Kosovo’s defence “I never received any response ees of the socially owned enter- there’s no more to it that that. advisors, Lirim Grajqevci and ministry. to this, with the exception of a prise. Mustafa said he did not believe Abelard Tahiri, did not respond to This was the result of a decision promise [to consider the idea] by All the enterprise’s employees KLA soldiers would have usurped questions about whether the PM by Azem Syla, then the defence Michal Steiner [UNMIK Chief], would continue their employment socially owned property. would take any action in light of minister, who remains a powerful who later backed down,” said and all those whose jobs had been “No KLA soldier would end up the evidence. force in the governing PDK. Sefedini. being behind any usurpation,” he forcefully terminated in the 1990s He signed the respective deci- Sefedini says that at that time he said. “I’m speaking of fighters that No rent paid: would return to their positions. sion on July 22, 1999. His decision had problems with another senior have fought all along [the war]. But the board of the socially entered into force five days prior PDK official, Rrustem Mustafa, Behind such usurpations usually The current director of SOE owned enterprise then attempted to its signature, according to the known as Remi, who was convict- stand people who returned from Auto Prishtina, Islam Selimi, said to cancel the agreement, alleging document obtained by Prishtina ed of war crimes in 2009 but the diaspora or who stayed on the that according to the applicable that Selmani had not kept his Insight. remains free awaiting a partial margins of the war and returned regulations, both Muja and promises. The KTA also ruled that Syla has not responded to the retrial. only to usurp such facilities,” Selmani should being pay rent for the agreement was illegal. newspaper’s inquiries about this “We had returned from the war Mustafa added. use of public property but In March 2009, the court threw decision. and had started to operate,” But, according to Mustafa, “There’s no use in asking them,” out Selmani’s claim against termi- Shaip Muja, who was formerly he said, “They won’t pay. nation of the 2000 agreement and part of the battalion of KLA Although Auto Prishtina no his attempts to stop the privatisa- medics, is no former KLA soldier. longer operates as a garage, it tion of Auto Prishtina. The judges “Did he ever fight?” Mustafa retains offices on the site, which is ruled that only UNMIK, through asked. managed by Selimi. the KTA, had the right to make Meanwhile Muja told Prishtina “They’re part of a network. Now decisions on socially owned prop- Insight that the property on which it’s difficult to make them stop erties. Te Rrethi stood was never part of [using the site]. That’s why I’m If and when the privatisation Auto Prishtina. here, to resist the usurpation of at process of this socially owned He showed Prishtina Insight least one part of our enterprise,” enterprise ever starts, Selimi pre- documents dated November 25, Selimi said. dicts that no one will dare to bid 1999, granting him planning per- He says he is friends with Shaip for it. mission on behalf of the munici- Muja’s brothers but has never “Who would invest in this prop- pality of Prishtina, signed by the asked them for rent. erty?” he asked. Selmani “will mayor of the interim government, He claims Selmani’s business deter all interested investors, con- Skender Mucolli, also a member of enjoys support from some of the vincing them he is the one who PDK. most powerful people in the coun- invested in it and that the property Te Rrethi, owned by the family of MP Shaip Muja, is allegedly on public land. BIRN has also seen a document try. belongs to him”.

Y M C +381 38 602042, +377 44 243367, +386 49 243367 K news Jan 20 - Feb 2, 2012 3

Islam in Kosovo Proves no Bar to Alcohol Editor’s Word Kosovars are overwhelmingly Muslim - but research by Prishtina Insight reveals that a stiff drink remains a part of many people’s lives. On the Road to this. remain in the country, however. The rest “The downside of using alcohol every in exported, mostly to lucrative Western Dheu i Bardhë day can be seen surfacing in societies in European markets. By Jeton Musliu people’s daily lives,” Hamiti maintained. In the case of rakia, Kosovo produces He said it was scientifically beyond 350,000 litres, while it imports another doubt that alcohol damages vital parts of 200,000 litres. But of the homegrown pro- By Lawrence Marzouk the nervous system, and in terms of soci- duce, just 85,000 litres remain in the he average citizen of Kosovo ety, it destabilizes peace and family har- country. drinks 13 litres of beer, one litre of mony. Taking beer, wine and rakia together, have had much cause to reflect since the terri- Twine and 150ml of brandy, known “You can add to this the daily losses of the total consumption in Kosovo is just ble scenes of Saturday’s Vetevendosje demon- as rakia, each year, according to analysis hundreds and thousands of people in the under 15 million litres. Istration at the border crossings of Dheu i of official customs figures. world in traffic accidents that are the But this figure does not take into Bardhe and Merdare. While this remains well below Russian result of people being under the influ- account the large amount of moonshine An article I published on the eve of the clashes – – and Western European – standards, it ence of alcohol,” said Hamiti. brewed and distilled across the country Wrong Protest in the Wrong Place – laid out, too is significantly more than is drunk in Kosovo Police confirms that alcohol is and which is not declared to the authori- brusquely and condescendingly, why I agreed with most countries in the Muslim world, to blame for many fatal traffic accidents ties. Vetevendosje’s anger with the government’s dis- where consumption is negligible, accord- each year. dain for the democratic process, but that the deci- ing to international statistics. Baki Kelani, Kosovo police Question of faiths: sion to press ahead with the protest was reckless In Kosovo, a state with 1.7 million citi- spokesman, said that from January to and its ultimate ambitions were unclear. zens, 13 million litres of beer, 1.6 million November 2011, the police recorded While everyone accepts that Kosovo is Many of you have made your views on this piece litres of wine and 200,000 litres of 15,625 accidents of various kinds. “As a a mainly Muslim country, exact statis- abundantly clear – mostly, you are furious at a for- brandy are consumed a year. result of these accidents 133 people died, tics concerning the current percentages eigner giving directions to the Kosovo public. As much of this comes from abroad, and many of the cases involved alcohol,” of the main faith communities have yet I regret having discouraged people from attend- import duty on alcohol brings in more Kelani said. to be published. ing – my job is to inform, provoke, analyse, but not than 2.6 million euro each year. The Statistical Agency of Kosovo, to advise individuals. Alcohol flows in and out: ESK, has not yet made public details of You are right when you say I will never share the Muslim – but fond of a drink: the census carried out in April of 2011, understanding of those who faced up to Milosevic’s Based on data of Kosovo Customs, which also included a declaration on MUP, or watched their village being torched. Sefedin Krasniqi, a clerk in a private most beer, rakia and wine produced in religious belief. Nevertheless, how the outside world sees Kosovo company in Prishtina, says the best day Kosovo comes from three major compa- Isa Krasniqi, director of ESK, said matters deeply, and those one step away from an of the week is Friday afternoon, usually nies. that the full data of the census, including issue can sometimes provide useful perspective for the time when devout Muslims gather Birra Peja in Peja produces by far the the declarations on religious belief, those in the thick of it. for prayer outside and inside the largest quantity of beer, while Stone would be made public in September 2012. I will try to lay out my argument and hopefully mosques. Castle and Haxhijaha in Rahovec pro- “Until then we can’t give any informa- respond to some of your comments. Krasniqi, 32, who says he is a Muslim, duce the largest quantity of wine and tion, as it is very confidential. Currently says he likes to go over the weekend to brandy. we are at the stage of processing the Protests - What Are They Good For? nightclubs, drink and have fun. While more beer is imported from data,” said Krasniqi. “The last time we were out we were Day after day, serious allegations emerge about abroad than is produced locally, the Most people, however, assume that the five friends and drinking beer, and I the activities of Kosovo’s elite. opposite is true of wine and brandy. figure for Muslims remains about 90 per think we had seven beers each,” I like to think I’m playing a small role in uncov- Kosovo Customs reveal that 2.8 million cent, which has been the usual estimate Krasniqi told Prishtina Insight. ering the corruption and mismanagement which litres of beer are produced in the coun- of a number of surveys. “I’m a Muslim, but like many others I are so detrimental to Kosovo’s citizens. try while another 13 million litres are Sabri Bajgora, head Imam of the don’t practice my religion strictly,” This week, Gazeta Jeta ne Kosove revealed the imported. Of the home produced beer, 1 Islamic Community of Kosovo, said he Sefedin said. extraordinary story of how two of Hashim Thaci’s million litres are exported. believes the figure may be even higher. Professor Dr Xhabir Hamiti, a lecturer former advisors – businessman Bedri Selmani and Some 3.6 million litres of wine are “Based on the number of members of at the Faculty of Islamic Studies in Shaip Muja – have usurped some of the most made in Kosovo, on the other hand, the Islamic Community Councils at local Prishtina, said the Koran is quite clear expensive real estate in Kosovo. Perhaps the sec- which is more than double the amount level, we can say with confidence that 93 that alcohol is forbidden, adding that ond-most iconic hotel in Prishtina – Victory – is that is imported. to 94 percent of the population belong to there are many practical reasons for built on a stolen land. Just 600,000 litres of domestic wine the Islamic faith,” Bajgora said. This is not news to the authorities – in fact it was one state institution, the Privatisation Agency of Kosovo, which confirmed this. Pacolli Helps Free But still there is no action. Given the impunity with which the elite operate, and the country’s dire economic situation, it is remarkable that so few Flying Lobbyist protest. The widening gulf of trust between the state and he intervention of Kosovo’s Deputy Prime Minister the public was not so much visible through the Behgjet Pacolli has led to the release of James Berisha, teargas and sweat of the Vetevendosje protesters, Tfive months after the pilot disappeared in Eritrea dur- who have long questioned authority, as through the ing his mission to encourage recognitions of Kosovo’s inde- pendence. armchair demonstrators, glued to KTV and Family and friends of James Berisha, who was flying Facebook, tweeting the downfall of a regime. across Africa to lobby for the recognition of Kosovo's inde- Such widespread support for the protest indi- cates that many believe the situation in Kosovo to pendence, said last week that they did not know whether he businessman Pacolli, who has also been lobbying in Africa. was still alive. have deteriorated to the extent that significant ille- He was expected to arrive back in Prishtina yesterday. gal action is justified. It had been rumoured that he was being held in a prison in A resident of the US state of Texas who grew up in Kosovo, Eritrea, in east Africa, since they lost contact with him on Berisha started flying across Africa in November 2010, asking Was the protest legal? August 15. African states to recognise Kosovo’s independence, declared Berisha is being flown back to Prishtina by the billionaire in 2008. Technically, at least, the protest was illegal. Yes, Kosovo’s constitution guarantees the right to protest – with restrictions. The 2009 Law on Public Gatherings required VV to submit a request 72 hours PRISTINA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT “ADEM JASHARI” before the protest, which the police say was not done. The law also includes rights of the police to pro- hibit a protest if they believe there is a risk that “peace might be violated” or of “inter-ethnic vio- lence”. “No public gathering may be held when it is for- bidden by police,” the law states. If a protest is refused, there is a right to appeal. VV decided not to even apply to protest. As a result, its protest could not be legal. VV were protesting against the fact the govern- ment had failed to act on a parliamentary decision. It is ironic that those protesting for parliament to be respected were so uninterested in a law passed by the same parliament. WE ARE OPEN FOR ALL DEPARTING FLIGHTS • CALL US ON 038 594422 continues page 14 4 Jan 20 - Feb 2, 2012 news Malgorzata Drewa of the European Voluntary Service

What surprised you most about Prishtina? That I am still not sure how big the city is. It seemed big from the first sight, then it looked small again as everybody I know lives actually in the city centre. Everything I need is reach- able by walking distance, so I have no idea where this big number of inhabi- tants of Prishtina actually lives.

What's your favorite hangout? I love the possibility to go for a coffee Prishtina through the Eyes of: the Eyes through Prishtina EU Launches Kosovo Visa in the centre, or for a beer in Peyton. My favourite pub is I think Creme de la Creme, but there are many other places. But - mostly I like the thing that Liberalisation Dialogue there are many festivals (theatre, jazz etc.), which I love to visit. The European Commission on Thursday launched its visa liberalisation dialogue Do you do anything cultural? As I mentioned in the point 2 - festivals, festivals, festivals. with Kosovo, a long-awaited decision hailed by Prishtina. Europe lifted visa require- said Prishtina had achieved What is the most annoying thing about Prishtina? ments for nationals of Serbia, the necessary goals for visa Traffic, of course, and problems with finding the right address, when Macedonia and Montenegro talks to start, though many there are no addresses sometimes. When there's no particular concert or By Fatmir Aliu in December 2009. Bosnia and shortcomings remained in the event it is also hard to find a nice place to hang out with alternative Herzegovina and Albania fol- area of the rule of law. music after pubs closing hour, as there are only clubs with disco music lowed suit in 2010. The government in open then (or maybe I am mistaken? Then I would change it for lacks of Kosovo Prime Minister Prishtina has pledged to information about nightlife). he European Commissioner Hashim Thaci hailed the com- quickly fulfill all the criteria for Home Affairs, Cecilia mencement of the long await- necessary for the lifting of If you were mayor of Prishtina for the day what would you TMalmstrom, said in ed process. visas. It has vowed to focus change? Prishtina on Thursday that the EU “Kosovo is no longer an iso- particular energy on combat- I would probably do something with the city centre, which could be had set the ball rolling on the lated country. Kosovo is now ing corruption, organised snice place to hang out, but making one pedestrian zone is not enough issue, after the country had ful- moving towards European crime and illegal migration. when there are no sights there. It's maybe just about aesthetics, but still filled a set of conditions. integration. A new chapter “We hope that after fulfill- it would be nice to make a real urban plan for this place. “What we are doing today is that has opened for Kosovo, an his- ing the criteria, the EU will we are here to confirm that condi- toric one, that of Kosovo respect its part of the deal How many macchiatos do you drink a day? tions have been met to initiate the becoming part of with the same pace we do our I drink mostly Turkish coffee since I came here. I can only say too dialogue,” Malmstrom told Europe...Today is a day of part of the homework, and much. reporters. blessing for the citizens of lift the visa requirement for “I know how important visa-free Kosovo,” Thaci said at a press the citizens of Kosovo,” he What's the tastiest Kosovar food? travel is to the citizens of Kosovo conference. added. It's so hard to decide, as I love food here, but I think I couldn't say no to and I'm happy that we've now set The launch of the visa lib- Commissioner Cecilia some pita with cheese and spinach. the ball rolling.” eralisation dialogue was Malmstrom noted that Kosovo The talks on the modalities of moved to January after initial had not received a roadmap What landmark do you use to tell taxi drivers where you live? the dialogue will be addressed by plans to begin the talks by the on the day the dialogue was I live outside the city, so I try not to use taxis, as it's quite Malmstrom during talks with the end of 2011 fell through. launched, but reiterated that expensive then. But if I have to then I ask them to come to Gracanica government in Prishtina. In its October 2011 progress the EU's commitment to visa- monastery. If I stay in Prishtina - which happens from time to time, I live Kosovo was left isolated after report on Kosovo, Brussels liberalisation is real. next to the Maroon pub, which is well-known by taxi drivers.

www.prishtinainsight.com Serbia Mulls Price of Extending Publisher: BIRN Balkan Investigative Reporting Network Elections to Kosovo Mensa e Studenteve, first floor Belgrade faces a dilemma on whether to include Kosovo in its next round of national and local elections, as Germany 10000, Prishtina has directly asked Serbia to abandon its so-called parallel institutions in Kosovo. Kosovo nationalist opinion would fiercely Serb-majority areas in Kosovo in representatives had been elected Phone: +381 (0) 38 24 33 58 oppose any attempt to exclude 2008, but the UN authority in democratically. Fax: +381 (0) 38 22 44 98 Kosovo from nationwide elections. Kosovo, UNMIK, as well as the As result of this stance, and after [email protected] By Bojana Barlovac Oliver Ivanovic, State Secretary in Kosovo government, condemned clashes later erupted in the North the Serbian Ministry for Kosovo the polls as illegitimate. in July, the EU on December 9 put Editor-in-Chief: and Metohija, said the government Holding local elections in the Serbia's EU candidacy bid on hold. Lawrence Marzouk has yet to decide whether to hold North is especially problematic, as EU foreign ministers are sup- erbia's Ministry of Public [email protected] both general and local elections in they will reinforce Serbia's so- posed to decide in February on Administration and Local Editorial Team: Kosovo, but he doubts that Kosovo called "parallel institutions" in the whether to grant Serbia candidate SGovernment is busy prepar- will be left out. North. status in March. Ana Petruseva, Gordana Igric, ing electoral rolls. The job must be “I believe they will be organised These post offices, schools and Some opposition parties in done by March 7 when the country, Jeta Xharra, Marcus Tanner, [there] as it would be politically municipal administrations ignore Serbia say they suspect that the according to election law, is to call Petrit Collaku, Shengjyl Osmani, inconceivable not to hold them the Kosovo government and government will go for parliamen- parliamentary and local elections, [there] in 2012 when they were held depend for their support and tary but not local elections in Artan Mustafa, Florina Hajdini, and which then must be held no later [in Kosovo] in the 2008 elections,” money on Belgrade. Kosovo, as holding the latter would Donjeta Demolli. than May 6. Ivanovic noted. Abandoning parallel institutions represent open defiance of the EU's But it remains unclear whether A similar answer came from was a condition that Germany set stated wishes for the region. Marketing, Sales & Distribution: the country will hold local elec- Serbia's Minister for Kosovo, for Serbia during German "Given that this government is tions also in Serb-run parts of [email protected] Goran Bogdanovic, who in Chancellor Angela Merkel's visit to absolutely dependent politically northern Kosovo. December said elections would be the Balkans in August if Belgrade and a puppet [of the EU] I don't Design & Layout: “Rrjeti” Kosovo unilaterally declared held in Kosovo at the same time as wants to pursue EU integration. think local elections will be called Arben Grajqevci independence from Serbia in the rest of Serbia, just as the Serbia's President, Boris Tadic, [in Kosovo]," Marko Jaksic, from Y February 2008 but Serbia's 2006 Constitution indicated. replied that Serbia would not aban- the opposition nationalist M constitution states that Kosovo is Printing: Lindi Printing Center Belgrade organised both parlia- don its institutions in Kosovo, say- Democratic Party of Serbia, DSS, C still part of its territory, and Copyright © BIRN K mentary and local elections in ing they were legitimate as their said. news Jan 20 - Feb 2, 2012 5 Greek Crisis Turns Albanian Thoughts to Home The economic turmoil in Greece is forcing the million or so Albanians who have made it their home over the past few decades to consider their options.

By Tim Judah

lbanians living in Greece are beginning to return Ahome. No one knows how many are coming back, but anec- dotal evidence suggests that two decades of emigration to Greece are over and that the tide has turned. The Greek crisis has left large number of Albanian migrants unemployed and many Greeks protesting in Thessaloniki against austerity measures are being forced to go home, even if there is no work for them back in than was expected and 7.7 per cent As the crisis bites deeper in duce - probably picked or raised by people’s pockets. Albania. less than a decade ago. Greece, Albanians say the police Albanian migrants - is still cheaper. Nevertheless the official statis- Remittances sent back by Alba - Some 1.4 million Albanians are are now being particularly vigi- Many find village life too hard tics of the Bank of Albania give a nians emigrants are also plummet- believed to have emigrated in the lant in checking papers. after years in big modern cities clear indication of the trend. ing, reflecting the straightened cir- last 20 years. Of that number some New bureaucratic obstacles have like Athens and Thessaloniki. In 2007 migrants sent home cumstances of those abroad. 483,000 are officially registered in appeared from out of the blue. They also don’t have the money to 951.7m euro. By 2010 that figure Ever since the financial crisis Italy and anywhere between For example, the children of rent homes and live in Tirana and had shrunk to 689.8m euro and for began in 2008 Albania has feared a 700,000 and I million live in Greece. Albanian migrants born in Greece other bigger towns. the first three-quarters of 2011 it mass influx of returning, unem- While there is plenty of anecdot- need papers issued by the Migrants with families have a stood at 475m euro. In 2009 remit- ployed migrants. It has not hap- al evidence about returns, espe- Albanian authorities. But the real problem. Albanians in Greece tances were estimated to make up pened. However bad the situation cially from Greece, no hard statis- Greeks have now started refusing have generally integrated well, so 9 per cent of Albania’s GDP. has become in Greece and Italy, tics exist. Edmond Haxhinasto, to accept papers for children born many of their children speak bet- Albania’s economy has not gone where most Albanian migrants Albania’s Foreign Minister, says in Thessaloniki as they did in the ter Greek than Albanian. It is into recession during the crisis and live, for many it is still better to that so far migrants are “still stay- past, citing the fact that they use extremely hard for them to switch it is expected to have grown by 2.5 have less work there than none at ing. According to the preliminary the Albanian name for the city, to an Albanian school and a new per cent in 2011. But this does not home. But the situation, especially data, only a few have come home”. Selanik, rather than the Greek one. curriculum. There are no facilities mean that returnees will find jobs. in Greece, is now so dire that this In the northern Greek city of Adrian Civici, an Albanian to help them, and this is one of the Some Greek companies have has begun to change. Thessaloniki, however, Valbona economist, says it is hard to esti- main problems holding back fami- begun to set up companies in In the past, many Albanians Hystuna, who works with the mate numbers of returnees lies who might otherwise go home. Albania, run by trusted Albanians found work in Greece in construc- Mother Teresa Albanian Migrants because many are “not fully back. Hystuna and Hajdinaj both who used to work for them in tion, agriculture and tourism. Association, says that “a lot of They come and go”. This analysis teach Albanian at a small Sunday Greece. But construction has ground to a people have left, a lot plan to leave is borne out by Hystuna and her school for children. The idea is to Another by-product of the crisis halt and many Greeks are now tak- and everyone is talking about it. A colleague, Iris Hajdinaj. In many make sure that their reading and is that many Albanians in Greece ing jobs in the other two sectors if lot have lost their jobs”. cases migrants return to the vil- writing especially is up to scratch. have been transferring their sav- they can find them - jobs they In the past, large numbers of lages they may have left 15 years This year there are 123 children in ings to banks back home, fearing might have spurned until recently. Albanians in Greece worked there ago to see whether it is possible to the classes. Two years ago there what might happen to them if Potentially the number of illegally. However, over the years find jobs or even work in agricul- were only 65. When they come out Greece defaults and exits from the returnees could be huge. At the most have used amnesties to ture. Finding both impossible, of school the children speak Greek euro. end of last year Albania’s statisti- legalise their status. Now, though, they return to Greece. Albania, to one another. Whether this would lead to an cal office issued preliminary those that lose their jobs fear they says Hajdinaj, “has changed a lot” If it is hard to estimate the num- even worse situation, forcing more results from the latest census. It will also lose their linked resi- since they left. bers of returnees, it is also hard to Albanians to return home, or recorded that were only 2.8 million dence permits. If they do, either Few can earn a living from agri- give exact figures about the whether the situation in Greece resident in the country, which is they must return home or become culture in Albania, because, in amount of money sent home by stabilises and the economy several hundred thousand less illegal again. spite of the Greek crisis, Greek pro- migrants, as much of it comes in improves, remains to be seen. Kosovo Border Protesters Slate Police Violence Kosovo civil society activists condemned police “violence” against border protesters on Saturday and called for a peaceful protest against the authorities on Monday. police action to free the road from at Dheu i Bardhe. Vetevendosje demanded the unauthorised and as such illegal. the demonstrators, led by the The action was aimed at uphold- release of all the protesters and Police spokesperson Baki Kelani opposition Vetevendosje (Self- ing a recent parliamentary motion described the police action as an said the protesters refused orders By Fatmir Aliu determination) Movement, was advocating a trade ban with attack on the opposition and on to unblock the highway and started unjustifiable. Serbia. democracy. assaulting police “with stones and “We condemn the brutal vio- But a significant police presence “The Kosovo Police is obeying other objects”. He qualified the lence ordered by the Government prevented the protesters from the political orders of Prime protesters “as a violent mob” that wenty-five NGOs have called of Kosovo and committed by the reaching the border crossings and Minister Hashim Thaci and was illegally blocking a highway. a protest for Monday in Kosovo Police. Yesterday’s protest stopped the crowd about five kilo- Interior Minister Bajram Rexhepi, “Thirty-two police officers have Tresponse to the tactics used was a manifestation of the will of metres from Merdare and some 500 which represents a violation of sought medical treatment due to by Kosovo police against protest- the citizens, an entirely democrat- metres from the crossing in Dheu i our laws," he said. the protests... from stones and ers on Saturday near the Kosovo- ic instrument, guaranteed by the Bardhe. "Our next peaceful protest to other metal objects thrown at Serbia border at Merdare. Constitution of the Republic," Kosovo Police on Sunday said block cars and goods from Serbia them while a number of official More than 50 persons, half of they said. they arrested 146 protesters at will be held on Sunday January vehicles were damaged,” Kelani them police officers, were injured The Vetevendosje Movement both Merdare and Dheu i Bardhe 22,” Ahmeti told reporters in said. when clashes erupted as police earlier this week announced that for resisting and attacking police Prishtina. According to police records Y tried to remove the protesters from it would block the free flow of officers. Fifteen remained in Kosovo Police on Sunday said some 1,500 protesters gathered in M the Prishtina-Podujevo highway. goods at the Merdare crossing in police custody on Sunday. the protests intended to block two both Merdare and Dheu i Bardhe C Civil society activists said the the northeast and in the southeast Shpend Ahmeti from border crossings with Serbia were on Saturday. K 6 Jan 20 - Feb 2, 2012 neighbourhood Croatia EU Vote Uncertain Despite Govt Optimism While polls show a majority of voters will back joining the European club on January 22, the ‘No’ camp still believes there is everything to play for. students at the Faculty of of the shortest such votes held in Philosophy in Zagreb attacks the any of the EU’s 12 most recent EU project as an anti-democratic member states. By Boris Pavelic oligarchy, portraying Brussels as The first ten days of the cam- the agent of “imperialism” and paign have shown that the cam- “brutal capitalism”. paign is being run mostly by the “For all the propaganda about government, with little engage- ive days ahead of a referen- Europe as the cradle of civilisa- ment from civil society. dum in Croatia on joining tion, the EU is distinctly undemoc- Even some pro-EU NGOs, like Fthe European Union, polls ratic,” Mate Kapovic, a linguistics the election watchdog GONG, have show a majority of Croats in sup- professor at Zagreb Univeristy, objected to this, saying that the port of EU membership - but with claims. government is not “informing” the at least third of voters opposed to “Behind that kind of Europe population of the issues, as it is membership, the result is not yet a stands exclusively ‘big capital’ and obliged, but is merely “propagan- foregone conclusion. ‘Western Europe first’ - not any dizing”. “Croatia’s path to the EU has noble ideas,” he adds. “Ordinary The criticism, from such a been paved by deception, black- people will reap no benefit from respected quarter, has not bol- mail, suffering, treachery and by a such a Europe.” stered faith in the government’s loss of national identity,” says In spite of the “red-brown” agi- promise to lead an informative Zeljko Sacic, a prominent anti-EU tation against Brussels, surveys campaign with arguments rather activist, summarising the gist of over the last six years have record- than prejudices. the anti-EU camp’s position. ed a consistent majority in favour Since the campaign started, the If 50 per cent plus one vote of of membership. government has published all key those who ballot vote “Yes”, The lowest level of support, a documents concerning Croatia-EU Croatia will be deemed to have bare 50 per cent, was recorded in relations. approved joining the EU as the September 2008, when the country The Foreign Ministry website 28th member state on July 1, 2013, was hit by the first wave of the eco- has uploaded the results of the following ratification of Croatia’s nomic crisis. whole negotiations process, accession by the parliaments of all But support climbed back to 64 Croatia’s Accession agreement, a 27 current member states. per cent in November 2010 when chronology of Croatia-EU rela- Sacic and his fellow nationalists the first high-level anticorruption tions and answers to some of the are determined not to let this hap- cases in Croatia started to unfold. most frequently asked public pen without a fight. His new party, Over last ten months polls have queries. Action For a Better Croatia, failed shown that, of those who intend to Five top state officials, including to enter parliament in last year’s An anti-EU poster in Croatia vote, between 55 and 60 per cent President Ivo Josipovic, Prime general election on December 4. intend to support EU membership Minister Zoran Milanovic and objected to this decision, they par- absence of more credible informa- But the Council for Croatia - No and between 30 and 40 percent Foreign Minister Vesna Pusic have adoxically had to thank the EU for tion, such inflammatory claims to EU, an organization in which he intend to oppose it. recorded messages to citizens call- help, after they then managed to are bound to have an echo. is prominent, continues to loudly Government officials are opti- ing them to vote “Yes”. get some money from Brussels to The Institute for International set out its case. mistic, therefore, that the result on Their messages have been promote their campaign. Relations, IMO, a public institu- Sacic himself is a controversial January 22 will go their way. broadcast online and aired on the The anti-EU camp, meanwhile, tion in Zagreb, is trying to rectify figure. In the 1991-5 war of inde- But the vote could still be tricki- key national TV and radio sta- has organized itself in several this information deficit by pub- pendence against the Serb-led er than some officials maintain, tions. groups to promote their “No” cam- lishing a book Croatia and EU - Yugoslav Army, JNA, he was experts suggest. The government has launched paign, of which the Council for advantages and challenges of the deputy commander of Croatia’s This is because anti-EU atti- public debates on EU membership, Croatia - No to EU is one of the membership, which came out last special police. tudes are barely represented at all inviting both pro- and anti-EU most visible. week. On account of his former role he in parliament, and are thus, to an activists to contribute. They have Fears of a loss of national iden- The book is a summary of scien- has been under investigation by extent, concealed from view. also published numerous booklets, tity and worries about mass immi- tific research of the topic by sever- the judiciary, suspected of cover- That could mean, analysts say, and it is planned that every family gration are among their principal al experts, offering extensive data- ing up war crimes committed by that anti-EU attitudes are both will get one for free. themes. based analysis and summaries, Croatian forces in the August 1995 more fluid and more widespread But the fact that the government “When Spain entered the EU, 5.5 and is one of the few well military operation codenamed than officials believe. has said that none of the money million immigrants moved in of informed and unbiased sources of “Oluja” (“Storm”), conducted The brief nature of the cam- allocated for the vote - 4.8 million whom 780,000 were Romanians. information available for interest- against Croatian Serb rebels. paign could pose another problem kuna (0.6 million euros) - will be Sixty thousand Vietnamese ed voters. While Sacic orchestrates the for the referendum. given to anti-EU activists, has migrated to Poland when it The question, however, is suspicion of Europe felt on the The campaign started only on boosted charges that it is not play- became an EU member,” claims whether this and other such reli- nationalist right, other anti-EU January 3, a mere 19 days ahead of ing fair. the Council for Croatia - No to EU, able sources of information activists come from the hard left. voting day. It will, therefore, be one After opponents of the EU in one of its offerings. should not have been made avail- One group of intellectuals and Analysts warn that in the able to the public much earlier. Romania PM Fails to Defuse Protests Thousands seem set to continue street protests against government policies despite the Prime Minister’s attempt to appease popular anger by reap- pointing a popular minister.

ed, as the health bill had been down by Tuesday morning, with Initially started mid-last week Romania is dependent on a 20 withdrawn. He will now be part of only a few dozen demonstrators as a show of support for Dr Arafat billion euro rescue package from By Marian Chiriac a team drafting a new health care left in the capital, days of protest who quit in protest over the con- the IMF, the European Union and law. are expected to continue. troversial draft healthcare legisla- the World Bank. It obtained the But the return of Arafat looks The main opposition Liberal tion, the protests soon broadened loan in May 2009 in exchange for unlikely to end the protests that and Social Democrat parties have into an attack on President Traian agreeing to push through austeri- housands vowed to continue have shaken Romania for the last announced their own public Basescu and the government’s ty measures aimed at taming the street protests despite Prime six days, with thousands of people march against the government for austerity measures. In response, country’s yawning deficit. saying they will continue to Thursday. the government on Friday TMinister Emil Boc's decision In July 2010, the government cut demonstrate against other unpop- Analysts say the size of the scrapped the unpopular bill. on Tuesday to reappoint a popular civil servants' wages by 25 per deputy minister whose resigna- ular policies such as cuts in public protests show the strength of dis- Over the weekend clashes erupt- cent, while thousands of state jobs tion last week prompted demon- spending. content with the government’s ed between demonstrators and were axed and VAT was increased strations across the country. “We hail the return of Dr Arafat austerity measures. “Romanians riot police, the worst Romania had by 5 per cent to 24 per cent. Raed Arafat, a Palestinian-born but will only end the protests were relatively quiet for a long seen in a decade. They left nearly doctor who created an efficient when the authorities publicly time but now it seems their 60 injured and police say nearly The government says it had no medical emergency system, apologise for their mistakes and patience has run out. Anti-govern- 300 face criminal investigations. other option to keep the economy resigned after criticising the draft the government renounces its aus- ment feelings are high,” political Romania experienced a very afloat, but critics say that while bill that allows private firms to terity measures,” one woman commentator Ion Ionita said. slow economic recovery in 2011, other European countries are try- Y provide emergency services. protesting in freezing tempera- The spark behind the recent ral- with growth estimated at 1.5 per ing to find alternative sources to M Arafat on Tuesday said he had tures in downtown Bucharest lies was the proposed health law cent of GDP, and the public is far cover their deficits, Romania is C accepted his position back because said. that would have brought major from feeling the effects of an eco- relying too exclusively on IMF K the reason he quit no longer exist- While the protests had died changes to the health system. nomic comeback. help. ski guide Jan 20 - Feb 2, 2012 7 Prishtina Insight Ski Guide 2012 It’s time again to dust of those ski clothes and head to higher altitudes in search of the perfect piste, or spa resort. Prishtina Insight brings you a guide to the best the region has to offer

Brezovica: Experts Predict The resort covers altitudes ed for the slightly rough slopes to 68 41. The best budget option in by far the coolest place to hang out between 900 and 2,500 metres and be in good condition for skiing. Brezovica offers small, modern, in Brezovica. With a selection of Long Season for Brezovica claims to have the best snow record Ski passes cost from 10 euro for a clean rooms and suites equipped card games, Connect 4, snacks, in the Balkans. one day pass to 250 euro for the with a kitchen. nlike previous years, the decent cocktails and even a pet whole season. snow has been falling heavi- A popular skiing destination in The restaurant is one of the best iguana, there’s not much missing Keep your eyes pealed on Uly in Brezovica, the hotels the former Yugoslavia, it was cho- in Brezovica, serving up typical, for après-ski fun. At the weekend it are full and experts predict a long, sen as an alternative site for the www.njeri.net or www.brezovica- hearty mountain fare from the gets smoky and packed, as the white season. Sarajevo Winter Olympics of 1984. ski.com for information. Strpce region, strong local brandy young and cool listen to DJs or Ben Islami, who runs the skiing Slopes for slalom and giant And, if you want to check out the and some of the best vistas in the warble out karaoke numbers. It website www.njeri.net/snow, says slalom have been officially regis- snow or whether the lifts are work- resort. Don’t be put off by the also serves the best macchiato in this year is shaping up to be a good tered by the Federation ing, it is worth visiting the IPKO owner’s curmudgeonly demeanour town. Next to Pizzeria Tina. one in Brezovica. Internationale de Ski. webcam at - Ivan is a very affable and helpful QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. “We have more snow than the But the resort has seen little http://www.ipko.net/ipko_portal/ chap. site/. last years and we expect the skiing investment since the conflict of the Find it just beyond the chair lifts. These reviews are courtesy of the season to last longer, most proba- late 90s and a series of privatisa- 9 rooms (6 doubles 20 euro, 3 suites). Prizren in Your Pocket guide, pro- bly till late March. tion bids have been held up Where to Eat, Drink and viding the best run-down of skiing “Last year we had a very short because of inter-ethnic politics. Rest Your Head Woodlands Hotel in Brezovica. Released earlier this skiing season, with enough snow Brezovica and the surrounding Tel. +377 44 44 44 48/+386 49 44 44 year, it is available online at for skiing for only one month municipality of Strpce are a Serb- Restaurant 48, [email protected], www.prizren.inyourpocket.com, as long.” majority area and attempts by the Pizzeria Tina Tel. +381 63 61 39 www.woodlandhotel- ks.com. The a free PDF download and as an Prishtina authorities to sell the new Woodlands Hotel is by far the According to Woodlands Hotel, 86, igor_nikolcevic@ yagoo.com. iPhone app too. the only quality offering at the ski resort have been blocked. A Brezovica institution, combin- most comfortable and stylish centre, it’s not just locals who have Skiers will find five chairlifts ing great food and extremely option, although the prices are rel- Hard copies are on sale for 2 euro been talking advantage of the good and five ski lifts, which are con- friendly staff. It offers a very wide atively steep. All rooms include at Dukagjini bookstore, Dit e Nat, skiing conditions. nected to 16 kilometres of slopes selection of dough-based delica- modern bathrooms, flatscreen tele- the airport and street kiosks. English, American, French and with an average length of 3,000 cies, with just about every imagi- visions and comfortable beds; Companies, institutions and hotels other visitors from Western metres. But a lack of investment nable topping, and excellent sal- apartments have a jacuzzi and can order complimentary copies for European have stayed at the hotel. means that just two chairlifts and ads. Soak up the sun at its pleasant sleep up to four people. The hotel is staff and visitors via Brezovica remains a little rough one t-bar lift are actually working. outdoor area, which is usually just a few paces from the slopes. [email protected]. around the edges, but it, nonethe- But the pistes are wide, pleasant buzzing on sunny days. It’s just a Your bags are delivered to the less, offers amazing value-for- and varied and you can still enjoy shame that the view is the concrete rooms by snowmobile. The restau- BREZOVICA money skiing. some great skiing and this bargain base of a ski lift. The pizzeria is a rant has more of the trendy urban As you stare across the moun- basement resort. great source of information and feel than rustic mountain lodge Altitude of the resort -1,718m tainsides around the Brezovica ski And if you can make it up on a help to find flats or houses to rent and serves Balkan specialities as Highest Peak - 2,522m station, the immense potential of sunny weekday, you will have the in Brezovica. well some international dishes, a Total length of slopes - 16,000m the place is all too obvious, even to place virtually to yourself. Signposted from the main road, rarity in this part of Kosovo. 21 Total number of lifts - 3 the untrained eye. The resort boasts snow cover for up a steep and often treacherously rooms (12 doubles 70 euro, 3 triples Number of beginners’ runs (blue slopes)- 1 It will, undoubtedly, become a almost 128 days per year, from slippery path. Open 09:00 - 24:00. 90 euro, 4 quads 120 euro, 2 apart- Intermediate (red slopes) - 1 major skiing destination at some December until the end of April, Facebook Page ments 150 euro). Advanced (black slopes) - 1 point in the future, but even today and offers good off-piste action. Y it is a great place to catch some, The seasons here tends to start a Hotels Bar M Maximum difference in alti- cheap ski action and revel in some little later than other stations in The Mountain Motel Fox Pub Tel. +377 44 98 08 C tude: 782 m après-piste fun. the Balkans as extra snow is need- Tel. +381 638 16 52 56/+381 638 57 36/+377 44 38 11 11. This venue is K 8 Jan 20 - Feb 2, 2012 ski guide New Brezovica Ski Resort to be Unveiled A major study by one of the world’s leading builders of ski resorts is set to outline plans for a huge, new winter centre close to the existing, aging Brezovica ski lifts.

region’s largest centre. The total cost of the new lifts would be 25 million euro but the earlier master plan By Lawrence Marzouk does not detail the financial implications of the whole resort, including new homes, restaurants and hotels. The plan also envisages a mountain he masterplan for a new ski resort – restaurant at more than 2,000 metres up which will be five times the size of and 30km of summer walking trails and a TMavrovo in Macedonia – is set to be manmade lake, to encourage year-long vis- published on February 6, revealing detailed its. proposals for the new centre. While the proposal would sidestep the The study has been carried out up by row over privatisation, hopes remain that Ecosign Europa, a major builder of ski cen- the current site may be sold in future and tres, alongside Howarth HTL, consultants the new and old centres linked. for the tourism industry, and Projekt AD. The new report to be published next The European Commission funded the month will look more in detail at finances 200,000 euro project last year after an ini- for the full resort, not just the lifts. tial survey of the area revealed that the In an interview with Prishtina Insight new location had the greatest potential for last year, Kjartan Bjornsson, former head a ski centre in the Balkans. of operations at the European Commission And after more than a decade of rows in Kosovo, said that the Ecosign was over the sale of Kosovo’s main ski centre, “stunned” by the beauty of the new loca- this proposal will sidestep the difficult tion and believed that it offered the great- issue of how to privatise the current lifts. est potential for skiing in the Balkans. The first section of the master plan, also “The new location is much, much bet- The location of the new mountain resort drawn up by international ski centre ter,” he said. “With the same investment Prime Minister Hashim Thaci has said lifts has dropped from nine to two since experts Ecosign, has already been we would generate three times more jobs.” implementation of the plan would result the end of the 1999 conflict and the hotels endorsed by the Kosovo government. He added that the new site is a “clean in the creation of 2,000 new jobs directly have received little or no investment late- It proposed to rejuvenate the skiing area sheet”, without the many illegal builds and 5,000 other new jobs indirectly. ly. with a brand new mountain resort, tourist which have appeared in Brezovica in the A bitter dispute between Belgrade and Bjornsson said that it does not make village, five major lifts and more than past ten years, which would put off poten- Prishtina over ownership of the existing sense to privatise the current station 25km of pistes. tial investors. resort has thwarted a series of plans over before the new centre is open as the rust- To be built next door to the current cen- Ecosigns has told the EC that new lifts the past decade to privatise Brezovica and ing ski lifts and aging hotels are worth lit- tre, the proposed development would be could already be in place at the new loca- so turn it into a premier winter destina- tle. five times larger than the Mavrovo ski tion for the 2012 ski season. “It is not tion in the Balkans. “We do not think that it makes much resort in Macedonia though still only one- impossible but very optimistic,” said Meanwhile, the facilities are falling sense [to privatize now], the centre has third the size of Bansko, Bulgaria, the Bjornsson. into disrepair. The number of functioning value in terms of location,” he said. Kosovo’s ‘Alternative’ Outdoor Sport Destination - Boge Nestled between the mountains of the Rugova Valley, at 1,400 metres above sea level, the village of Boge is one of the best places in Kosovo to enjoy the snow lthough it doesn’t offer quite as spec- tacular views as Kosovo’s main ski- Aing destination, Brezovica, Boge has a friendlier feel and almost all its facilities are handily gathered around the ski lifts. It also has a better range of accommoda- tion close to the lifts, including two venues which offer beautiful log cabins, perfect for a weekend retreat with a group of friends. A ski pass will set you back 10euro a day, giving you access to the village’s sole lift and around 1km of slopes, with three different paths. The options aren’t particularly varied or challenging for competent skiers, but it’s a great place for learners and those wanting The cabins offered by Rudi Group and although this is made up for by the cozy feel ing steeply up to the very pleasant summer to practice their rusty descent skills before Relax Rugova book up well in advance for of the place. It’s an excellent venue for some resort of Guri i Kuq and the other to Boge. braving the more difficult terrain at weekends, so plan ahead. warming glasses of Raki after a bracing day The road to Boge is unpaved and becomes Brezovica. The lift is open from 9am to 4pm They offer great accommodation in four- on the pistes. very slippery at this time of year, so a four- every day. to-six people cabins, which include small The restaurant attached to the Rudi by-four is recommended. Good quality equipment can be hired at gardens, kitchens and living rooms. Group is right next to the ski centre and If you don’t have one, snow chains are a Rudi Group and lessons can also be organ- The Relax Rugova cabins are a couple of offers cheap, tasty food, and a healthy dose must, although some attempt the route in ized from this outfit and a few others around minutes drive from the village, whereas of mountain spirit. regular saloon cars. This invariable ends the lift. those of Rudi Group are a few feet from the Boge is around a 45 minute drive from with numerous stops as the cars or minibus- The slopes also offer good sledging oppor- ski slopes, in the middle of the village. Peja, although travel times can vary widely es become stuck in the snow. tunities, although you have to negotiate the If you can’t secure a log cabin, the hotels depending on the weather. It’s worth trying to arrive early, as there often crowded foot of the hill, which is usu- are mostly basic but comfortable. The road which snakes through the are few passing places along the route and it ally swarming with people enjoying a bar- Hotel Burri, for example, offers small but Rugova Valley is often snowy at this time of gets very busy on good ski weekends. Y beque, even in the freezing weather. clean rooms for 25euro a night with good year, but is pretty well asphalted and cleared M This area is lit up at night, so you can views across the valley, 24-hour electricity regularly. BOGE C enjoy nocturnal sledging, if it takes your and shared bathrooms. Some 22km along the route from Peja you Altitude of the resort -1,400m K fancy. The food at Burri is a bit hit-and-miss, will reach a T-junction, with one road lead- Total number of lifts - 1 ski guide Jan 20 - Feb 2, 2012 9 Kopaonik, Serbia While the situation in Kosovo’s north means that a long detour is required to reach Kopaonik, it remains an excellent destination for skiing and can now be accessed by those with Kosovo IDs erbia’s biggest ski resort, kids). Kopaonik, offers tourists Serbia’s biggest ski centre is Severything they could expect an expensive option if you opt for from a perfect skiing holiday. a hotel. A range of improvements have If you don’t mind staying in an been made to the ski centre over apartment, or hotel room that recent years, including an looks exactly the same as it did in increase in capacity of the lifts its 70s heyday, and you are not and the opening of two new pistes. the type of person that cares an The resort is surrounded by a awful lot about a dedicated serv- beautiful national park and the ice team, then there are certainly area is renowned for its stunning options in Kopaonik. Flora in Fauna, as well as its 200 There is a wide variety of days of sunshine which have hotels and apartments available earned it the nickname of the for rent, at prices starting mountain of the sun. You’ll be around 0 euro per night per per- hoping however that most of the son, but quality is often variable. flora is underneath the snow and Take a recommendation from a with around 160 days snow cover friend or do some thorough each year, you should be in luck. research before accepting a budg- Kopaonik has been the top desti- et deal. nation for Serbs for some time but This season many European since 2004, when the last land- travel agencies have dropped mines were removed, foreign Kopaonik from their skiing cata- KOPAONIK tourists have returned too. logue, so perhaps this will have In the 70s and 80s this was a pop- freed up some space and you may Prices start at about 30 euro and costs around 10 euro. Altitude of the resort - 1,770m ular budget skiing destination and just find a bargain. per room. One of the newer additions to Highest Peak - 2,017m in the last few years has been try- One of the most popular desti- The resort will not impress the resort is the snowboard park Total length of slopes - 44km ing to catch up with the foreign nations for locals remains the experienced thrill-seekers but where boarding fans can build Total number of lifts - 23 competition. Grand provides enough of a range to their own jumps. Number of Baby lifts - 2 The resort doesn’t offer the Hotel, (036 71037), located just a keep intermediate skiers and In a sign that Kopaonik is try- Number of beginners’ runs luxury of a trip to the Alps, but few metres away from the begin- beginners happy. ing to become more ‘hip’, it began (blue slopes) - 12 the prices are hardly comparable ning of one the main lifts up the If you are in for adding a bit of hosting a snowboard and music Intermediate (red slopes) - 9 either. slopes and with it’s own ski-rent excitement and still have the festival staged by the organisers Advanced (black slopes) - 4 Your ski pass at 15 euro a day facility and ski shop. The hotel energy after a long day of ski- of the infamous EXIT festival. Maximum difference in alti- (10 euro for kids) compares offers an indoor swimming pool ing, then night skiing on the Ski rental is available widely tude - 512m favourably to the French Alps, (accessible to non-residents), Malo Jezero slope will be just and costs about 50 euro for a week Longest run - 3.5km where a day in Chamonix would jacuzzi, sauna and fitness cen- the right thing for you. The slope or around 8 euro per day, with dis- Night skiing route - 450m cost you 40 euro (30 euro for tre. is open between 7pm and 10pm counts available for children. Nordic skiing - 18km 10 Jan 20 - Feb 2, 2012 ski guide Popova Sapka, Macedonia opova Sapka is located in the Hotel Slavija, above the Popova northwestern part of Sapka hotel, is perhaps better PMacedonia, and is one of the appointed and has an indoor swim- most popular winter ski resorts in ming pool. Rooms in both these the country. hotels are around 20 euro per per- It is situated in the beautiful son per night. Shar Mountain at 1,780 metres The ski region’s website above sea level, just 35 kilometres (www.popovasapka.mk) will be of from the capital Skopje. no use unless you speak On average, Popova Sapka sees Macedonian and read Cyrillic 135 days of snow. but the site of the Mountain House The resort is a little more run Granit down than its neighbour Mavrovo, www.popovashapka13.com.mk, Mavrovo, Macedonia but has a pleasant, friendlier feel coincidentally a great value place to it. to stay at 15.50 euro per person per he northwest of Macedonia some evenings, making night-time calves. Rooms start at 100 euro a The view from Popova Sapka is night, has some resort informa- is home to one of the most skiing possible. night for a double room. It is a 15 superb and opens out towards the tion and also, curiously, pictures of Tbeautiful mountain valleys Skiing is cheap with around 17 minute drive to the slopes. neighboring mountains all the other hotels in town.. At in the region, Mavrovo. euro securing a day pass and 100 One downside of the station is it Jakupica and Solunska Glava 11.50 euro a day, the ski passes are It is just one hour’s drive from euro a weekly ticket. sits at just 1,250metres, meaning (2540m), and also towards the a bargain too. the capital, Skopje, on motorways Close to the slopes, the Hotels that the quality of the snow at low Polog valley. and well maintained roads. Drive Bistra, (www.bistra.com) with 42 levels can sometimes be patchy. The skiing village includes time from Prishtina is likely to be rooms, is a good option. It has a around 250 to 300 chalets to rent POPOVA SAPKA in the region of 3 hours. rustic feel and offers a restaurant, MAVROVO and a smattering of independent Altitude of the resort -1,704m The Zare Lazarevski ski centre serving up hearty fare, a heated, restaurants. Ski-schools and Highest Peak - 2,748m in Mavrovo has been recently ren- indoor swimming pool, sauna and equipment hire can be arranged at Altitude of the resort - 1,250m Total length of slopes - 10km ovated, increasing the capacity of jacuzzi. The same group also owns hotels and in the village. Highest Peak - 1960m Total number of lifts - 11 the ski lifts, and offers good quali- two other nearby hotels. The Hotel Decent Italian food is served up Total length of slopes - 5km Number of beginners’ runs (blue ty accommodation and great Makpetrol (+389 23146273) is a Total number of lifts - 11 lifts at Casa Leone in the village, which slopes)- 2 views. short walk from the pistes. Number of beginners’ runs has amazing views from its ter- Intermediate (red slopes) - 5 The ski trails start at 1960m and The pick of the bunch if you are (blue slopes) - 5 race. The none too imaginatively Advanced (black slopes) - 1 end some 700 metres or so down in looking for luxury is the Hotel Intermediate (red slopes) - 5 named Hotel Popova Sapka (+389 Maximum difference in altitude: the town. Radika Advanced (black slopes) - 5 44361020) is the biggest hotel in the 1,400 m The 5,000 metres of pistes pro- (www.radika.com.mk). Maximum difference in alti- resort with 140 rooms, but the vide opportunities for beginners This five-star resort is certainly tude: 700m and intermediate skiers alike and luxurious and offers a full-range of a short section of the trail is lit up spa options to soothe your aching Montenegro

ontenegro's ski resorts Resort, (www.biancaresort.com), speaks of the appallingly low stan- might not live up in size to is the place to stay here but with dard of provision for tourists. Msome European destina- prices over 100 euro per person per So perhaps you may not live in tions, but quantity and quality is night for bed and breakfast in peak the lap of luxury in Zabljak not the same thing. season, it's not a budget option. (athough to be honest our opinion The rugged mountains of If you are up for an adventure is more positive than the Visit Montenegro conceal the deepest and looking for more demanding Montenegro website), but the ski- canyon in Europe, and they also slopes, make your way over to ing and the scenery are unmatch- hide away Moraca, and Kolasin. Zabljak in the Durmitor National able. Kolasin, with its ski centre Park. The Montenegro resorts can be Jerzerine, is a small resort com- Zabljak has everything that you difficult to reach from Kosovo in pared to developments in could wish for in a ski resort. the winter as the Rozaje pass is Switzerland, France or Austria but Located deep in a forest with 20 often closed. when you are standing on the top peaks looming up around it, and 18 of the mountain, with the white fairytale crystal clear lakes nearby ZABLJAK/ DURMITOR powder snow stretching out below it is a truly breathtaking sight. you, you will begin to ask yourself The town sits at an altitude of Altitude of the resort - 1,445m why you have not come here 1456m and if you take yourself up Highest Peak - 2,532m before. to the top of the pistes at 2,313 then Total length of slopes - 15km The slopes are perhaps not the you can enjoy a whole 3.5km of Total number of lifts - 6 most demanding, but the stunning 'black run' downhill skiing. Number of baby lifts - 3 scenery will more than compen- However, in what must be one of Beginners' runs (blue slopes) - 6 sate for that. the frankest pieces of PR writing, Intermediate (red slopes) - 2 The really rather lovely Bianca the Visit-Montenegro website Advanced (black slopes) -1 Max. difference in altitude - 868m Longest run - 3.5km

KOLASIN

Altitude of the resort -1,450 Highest Peak - 2,139 Total length of slopes - 30km Total number of lifts - 12 Number of baby lifts - 1 Beginners' runs (blue slopes) – 2

Intermediate (red slopes) - 7 Advanced (black slopes) - 2 Max. difference in altitude - Y 510m M Longest run - 4.5km C Longest night skiing route - 500 K culture Jan 20 - Feb 2, 2012 11 Serb Police Squash Pioneer Artistic Squat Military police dealt swiftly with unprecedented art-house takeover of a ruined army barracks in Novi Sad – but whether this was just Serbia’s first squat, or its last, remains to be seen. Action on army day: whether people or associations of citizens,” said Milan Vracar of the Novi Sad Activists decided on December 22 as the KulturaNova organization, which is an By Branislava Lovre, Novi Sad day to move in. In former Yugoslavia this was Initiative member. widely celebrated as the day of the Yugoslav People’s Army, JNA. Opponents strike back: Before more 200 people entered the mili- roken windows, furniture that no one tary facility, the associations sent a memo to But not everyone regarded the initiative has used for years and floors covered the Serbian Defence Ministry and the City of with approval. Some representatives of the Bwith leaves – this is what the aban- Homeless Soldiers’ Association said they had Novi Sad, both of which refused to back the doned Arcibald Rajs (Archibald Reiss) mili- nothing against culture but felt deeply dissat- tary barracks in Novi Sad looked like over action. isfied with the way they had been treated. the past five years. In spite of this, they went in through the Some 450 military personnel families live in But last week, although the windows were unlocked gate and, a few minutes after mid- Vojvodina in abandoned military barracks in not replaced, the building was cleaned and a day, began cleaning the place. which living conditions are poor, while some fire burned in the courtyard, lit by the new “This is our message, that the time of 350 other families are living in rented accom- tenants in an attempt to warm themselves. demilitarization has come, the times of war modation. There was no electricity, water or heating in are over and the times of art and social “Homeless soldiers were earlier moved out this building because the utilities were cut off activism are coming,” Nenad Ivanovic, of the of this facility and now - when people moved a long time ago. Free Team movement, announced. into the very same facility - there’s no reaction Although Serbia’s Defence Ministry and Of the total of 7,300 square metres, a little from the authorities,” one member of the the city authorities, which own the barracks, under 500 were soon cleaned up. association, insisting on anonymity, com- had opposed the idea from the start, 20 non- While the barracks teemed with activities, plained. governmental organizations belonging to the the Defence Ministry told BIRN that while it Culture activists said they didn’t want con- Social Centre Initiative at the end of respected the Social Centre’s interest in using flict with the Army or the city authorities, or December took a step that is highly unusual the facility, it would not abandon its planned to jeopardize anyone else’s rights. in Serbia. compilation of tender documents to be sub- “At this point we are not considering mov- Having searched for years for a venue to mitted to the Property Directorate of Serbia ing out of this space, we are trying to contin- host various activities, the groups followed in for further handling. ue working. The important thing is that the told the news agency Tanjug that the military the footsteps of European colleagues by decid- “If no agreement is reached with the city, idea persists and develops,” Goran Filipas, of police “assumed control over the object” in ing to “squat”. Overnight, they turned the which has priority, on turning the barracks the Novi Sad KinoKlub, said. cooperation with the competent authorities abandoned building into the “Social Centre”, over to it by transfer of ownership for an ade- Filipas’s pledge not to close the centre will and with the presence of a magistrate. a place of culture, sports and education. quate price, a public auction will be held in now be put to the test; Novi Sad police entered According to him, members of the communi- A range of programmes now took place which there’s already great interest,” a min- the barracks and expelled the activists on ty centre left the barracks without incident. there, from workouts for willpower and body istry spokesman said. Friday morning. One of Serbia’s first ever experiments in development to fencing classes, film screen- Novi Sad Mayor Igor Pavlicic said at the According to the activists, the military squatting seems to be over – at least for now. ings, modern classical music listening ses- end of December that he understood the police arrived at 9am and were rougher this sions, Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, modern circus demands of the citizens’ associations to have time than last, so they decided to leave. This article is funded under the BICCED workshops, rock-and-roll sessions, literary their own space in the city, but could not back The head of public relations of the project, supported by the Swiss Cultural gatherings, knitting workshops and salsa illegal break-ins. Ministry of Defence, Colonel Milivoje Pajovic, Programme. dance classes. The president of the Novi Sad City Programmes took place by day and in the Assembly, Aleksandar Jovanovic, mean- evenings, many people showing up daily and while, recalled that the city lacked the funds marketing watching shows in winter coats. needed to purchase the barracks and had no A couple of activists stayed overnight in the immediate prospect of obtaining that kind of barracks to protect the facility in the event the money. city authorities abandoning their initial atti- On the other hand, the activists insisted tude of tolerance. that they needed the space, adding that com- mercial interests ought to play second fiddle The plan is hatched: to the general public good. Posted on the website of the Social Centre It was, however, always clear that their Initiative, a letter of support arrived from the occupancy of the barracks might be short- Independent Cultural Scene Association, lived, as the Serbian government has a mas- NKSS, assembling some 70 non-governmen- ter plan for the site that envisages its sale for tal organizations working in the field of cul- around 11 million euro. ture. The City of Novi Sad has pre-emptive “A struggle for public spaces in which the rights in the event of a sale – but as it doesn’t activities of association members (cultural, have that kind of money, it has already said it educational, sports…) would be carried out cannot bid for the barracks. It is, therefore, freely is something that awaits us across expected that the facility will go to public auc- Serbia,” it read. tion. “At the same time this is also a struggle for When the authorities did not intervene to public good – neglected in the battles of clien- evict the activists immediately, it drew telistic groups and commercial interests,” it protests from Novi Sad members of the added. Serbian Association of Homeless Soldiers. In the meantime, the activists won the sup- Once the war in the region ended, families port of many non-governmental organiza- of officers and noncommissioned officers tions across Serbia and the region, including from former Yugoslavia were given tempo- the Mostar-based Abrasevic Youth Cultural rary accommodation in the barracks for a few Centre, Liceulice magazine from Belgrade, years. Civic Initiatives, Rojcnet from Pula and But under a decision of the then military Metelkova from Slovenia. command, four years ago they were evicted The NKSS urged all its members and other from the barracks and moved to other accom- Serbian civil society organizations and citi- modation. They now said it wasn’t fair that zens to give support to the activists and to new tenants were being given what they come up with art and cultural programs that called preferential treatment. could be organised in the Social Centre. Over a year ago the Kuda.org non-govern- Novi Sad visual artist Jelena Juras said she mental organization from Novi Sad shot a supported the initiative to convert the mili- film entitled Open Barracks, drawing atten- tary facility and allow people to use it for var- tion to similar activities in Europe following ious programs. which abandoned military facilities were “I don’t know of any other venue that could converted to venues for cultural activities. be used for the same purpose as the Social Following the airing of the film, the idea Centre, and that is hosting different educa- that an abandoned, ruined building close to tional programs that are free of charge and the city centre, in 55 Futoska st, could also accessible to everyone,” she said. host social and cultural events, gained “The main goal of the initiative is precise- momentum. ly the creation of a Social Centre that is open to all those focusing on community service, By Donjeta Demolli 12 Jan 20 - Feb 2, 2012 Timeout Contact Prishtina Insight if you would like your event to feature or to advertise your venue. Email [email protected]

PRISHTINA DIARY Oda Theatre Dodona Theatre Friday, January 20, 2012 Filikaqa, 8 pm Every Tuesday at 8 pm Every Thursday 7.30pm Protest Concert, Tre Gjermanët e Trashë II Çifti i Hapur (The Open Couple) Art's Trio, Creme de la Creme, DJ JIMI (UK), EGO (Three Fat Germans II) Band, Labinot Sponca, Noise seed, The Freelancers, “Çifti i Hapur” is being staged The Glasses with the text of Italian authors Thanks to this play you Dario Fo and Franca Rame, directed Gegë Caffe Bar, at 9 pm will understand “What did by Kushtrim Koliqi Tribute to Michael Jackson Brigel say when he asked for A man proposes to his wife of a drink?”; “Why Hans didn’t eliminating the concept of martial Hamam Jazz Bar, 9pm let him drink Mojito?”; loyalty and creating an “open rela- Jazz trio - live “How did Gani experience tionship” in their lives. The woman For reservation call +377 (0) 44 222 289 or +381 (0) 38 his 21st snow?”; “Is rejects this and after several 222 289 Vukashin really Ukshin?”; attempts of suicide, she decides to Free entrance “Does KFOR-ja still work for accept her husband’s offer because KFOR or she just loves in fact it’s the only way to remain Saturday, January 21, 2012 him?”; “How did Hekuran married. The man is happy. He, no boil eggs in the middle of longer needs to hide his girlfriends and is released from Hamam Jazz Bar, 9pm the North Pole?”; These and other events you can see in the feelings of guilt. Now everything is democratic and open. Maja quartet – jazz music play “Tre Gjermanët e Trashë II”. Everything goes well until the day when the woman finds For reservation call +377 (0) 44 222 289 or +381 (0) 38 Author: Lirak Celaj; Producer: Florent Mehmeti; Roles: 222 289 the love of her life, which is what her “modern” husband Naser Rafuna, Adrian Morina, Kushtrim Sheremeti, Lirak Free entrance cannot accept. Celaj, Fisnik Ademi, Ard Islami, Arta Selimi, Florent Cast: Edona Reshitaj and Besart Sllamniku; Costumes Mehmeti. Tuesday, January 24, 2012 and the setting: Njomza Luci. Composer: Trimor Dhomi; Choreographer: Bruno Saqipi; Light; Designer: Skender Hamam Jazz Bar, 9pm Latifi; Stage manager: Bedri Maloku, Albert Bekteshi and DJ Alush & DJ Bardhi Fadil Gashi, Photographer: Arton Humolli. For reservation call +377 (0) 44 222 289 or +381 (0) 38 For more information call +381 (0)38 246 555 or write 222 289 [email protected]. For more details email [email protected]; Free entrance [email protected]

Gallery of Arts

The international exhibition “The Biennial Goes Graphic” curated by Rene Block remains open until January 22, 2012.

A photo exhibition “Anthology of Hope” by Jutta Benzenberg, a German artist living in Albania, is also open until January 22, 2012.

Alvin and the Chipmunks The Girl with the Dragon Tatoo Every day at 5pm Every day at 7pm and 10 pm

Kino ABC The director of screens the pre- the movie is David miere of the movie Fischner. Cast “Alvin and the includes Daniel Chipmu nks” by the Craig, Rooney director Tim Hill. Mara and The premiere is on Christopher Friday at 3 pm. Plummer etc. In a tree farm, three musically This English-lan- inclined chip- guage adaptation munks, Alvin, of the Swedish Simon and novel by Stieg Theodore, find Larsson follows a their tree cut down and sent to Los Angeles. disgraced journal- Once there, they meet the frustrated song- ist, Mikael Blomkvist (Daniel Craig), as he writer David Seville, and despite a poor investigates the disappearance of a wealthy house wrecking first impression, they patriarch's niece from 40 years ago. impress him with their singing talent. He is aided by the pierced, tattooed, punk Seeing the opportunity for success, both computer hacker named Lisbeth Salander human and chipmunks make a pact for them (Rooney Mara). to sing his songs. While that ambition proves As they work together in the investiga- a frustrating struggle with the difficult trio, tion, Blomkvist and Salander uncover the dream does come true after all. immense corruption beyond anything they However, that success presents its own have ever imagined. trials as their unscrupulous record execu- tive, Ian Hawke, plans to break up this fami- ly to exploit the boys. For any further questions or reser- Y Can Dave and the Chipmunks discover vations call at 038 243 238 or visit M what they really value amid the superficial them at www.kinoabc.com C glamor around them? K 13 Prishtina Insight Jan 20 - Feb 2, 2012

Where to pick up Prishtina Insight? Prishtina Insight has teamed up with these excellent venues to offer A taste of Napoli in Prishtina. Te Komiteti a limited number of complimentary Te Komiteti’s large trees and a beautifully garden, which After ten surround the small outdoor terrace, give you an impression copies of Kosovo’s only English-lan- years of mak- of an exclusive place for ordinary people. And this is exactly guage newspaper. Grab a copy of ing pizza in what it is. From brunch to lunch-time snacks and special Napoli, and the publication and settle down with evening meals, this only with love restaurant offers a drink or a meal to read it. to blame, dishes comprising Fatmir the quality, varied chef returned ingredients, com- to Prishtina. bined to perfection. Hotel Prishtina His pizzas, Alongside one of made in a Hotel Prishtina’s 43 charming Prishtina’s best woodburn guest rooms and suites are remi- ‘modern European’ stove, are defi- niscent of a small hotel in the style menus, you’ll nitely genuine European tradition. You'll imme- also find a good napolitanas. diately feel at home in our living selection of wine, For those who consider pizza to be boring, Fatmir has several room, sipping a glass of wine in and great sangria pastas on offer, also a true joy for the taste buds. Napoli has an our fine restaurant surrounded and cocktails . by a gallery of paintings by local excellent selection of red and white wines or, for the more ambi- artists. tious, one of the region's best Quint's raki. Napoli makes for deli- Te Komiteti The hotel offers free, fast wifi cious lunch, dinner or even after-theatre time out in the centre of Qamil Hoxha internet, complimentary breakfast, Prishtina. Street conference room, swimming pool, Prishtina sauna and laundry service. Pizzeria Napoli +381 38 24 96 63 off Luan Haradinaj, opposite Newborn 044/409-402402

Hotel AFA CHURCHILL’S PUB Located in a quiet neighbourhood just outside the city centre, Churchill’s Pub is a plase where you can associate with its Hotel Afa can guarantee guests a peaceful night while being unique, casual, cozy and friendly atmosphere where you can within walking distance of all the action. The venue has won a enjoy an affordable pub style.... That comfortable atmosphere host of awards for its combined with that special music, the greate range of drinks excellent service to cus- and the chance to get to play a game of pool and dart board on tomers and offers a good the second floor. range of facilities, from A pub where you can go and enjoy everynight live music, dif- an exclusive restaurant ferent ones like evergreen, tradicional, uplugged and rock. You and VIP bar to pretty, can also enjoy the happy hour wich starts ar 20:00-21:00 tranquil garden. Rooms everynight. start at 45 euro for a sin- Beers (Peja and gle, and luxury rooms and Skopje) for only 0,99 apartments are available. Euros, Gin Mix and The hotel’s rooms are well Vodka Mix for only 1,50 appointed and comfort- Euros. able. Churchill’s Pub is located in the heart of 15, Rr Ali Kelmendi, Prishtina. Sunny Hill, Prishtina +381 38/225 226 Str: Johan V. Hahn, www. hotelafa. com Peyton, Prishtine +377 44 728 750

Restorant Brasserie Lura Paddy O’Brien’s

At 450-square-metres The staff at Paddy O’Brien’s have a saying: “It’s easy to walk in, but very hard Restaurant Lura is as spa- to leave.” cious as you get in Prishtina. And with its warm atmosphere, fantastic range of drinks and excellent food, it It’s also surrounded by the is easy to see why. towering trees of Germia There have been many attempts to establish a proper Irish pub in Prishtina, and offers a pleasant garden but this is the only one to hit the spot. where, in the summer, this From classic coffees to cocktails, via, of course, Guinness, you really wont eatery prepares food al fres- find it difficult to select the perfect co. It’s large meeting room is drink. also ideal for that private A mouth-watering menu of Irish lunch or dinner. specialties is also on offer, spanning The combined style classi- from all-day breakfasts to Irish cal and modern interior stews at night. leaves you with an impression Options include shepherd’s pie, of refined taste. bangers and mash, fish ‘n chips, The newly opened restaurant is already famous for its Mediterranean special- and whopping great burgers. ties, exquisite seafood and fine selections of Italian, French and Local wines. Thursday is pub quiz night, but But that’s not all, for music lovers, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday night din- there is always something going on at ners are accompanied by jazz, whereas on Saturdays local patriots can enjoy live the pub, whether it is sport screen- traditional Albanian music. ings or just a good shindig. Lura Restaurant Paddy O’Brien’s Str. Nazmi Gaffuri • 10 000 Prishtina • +381 (0)38 763 763 ; +386 (0)49 763 763 • Tringe Smajli Street, by the www.lurarestaurant.com Illyria Hotel Y [email protected] Prishtina: 045-420900 M C K 14 Jan 20 - Feb 2, 2012 opinion Editor’s Word Outside In On the Road Parliament Left to Dheu i Battered and Bardhë Bruised from page 3

Sometimes it is morally right to protest even when the authorities try to stop you - those who are bravely defying By Kreshnik Hoxha President Assad of Syria are not doing so with his consent and I assume did protest deemed as peaceful by Vetevendosje and not submit a request to the local police provocative by the government ended just how station. Athe government had been planning it for a week – But there should be a high bar for violently. Images of tear gas, violence and police intimi- deciding that the legitimacy of state dation returned to Kosovo, bringing back bitter memo- institutions has collapsed to the extent ries of Serb police oppression before the war. that no attempt should be made to go This time, however, the violence came from Kosovo through the legal process. Police, an establishment that since its creation has been We have not reached the point in Violence and the Protest concrete and other solid items to throw enjoying the respect and praise of Kosovars generally. Kosovo when all democratically avail- at police while Vetevendosje marshals Well, at least up to last Saturday. able options have been exhausted. Like many, I was shocked by some of attempting to stop this. In the wake of the humiliating arrests of the protest- VV have the potential to be a remark- the scenes from the protest. The sight of That is to VV’s credit, but demon- ers, Kosovo Police has become the scapegoat for the vio- able force for good in Kosovo if they can the photographer being shoulder-barged strates how easily the situation was able lence. curb some of their rabble-rousing ten- by a police officer as he looked away was to escalate and lead to the injury of 30 Human Rights Council of Kosovo was quick to react dencies and focus on securing good gov- particularly chilling. police officers, as well as hundreds of by stating that the violence was unnecessary and led to ernance through democratic, legal Clearly there are some very serious VV protesters. the escalation of the situation. This is true, apart from means. questions about Kosovo Police conduct. I understand that the pictures of riot the fact that we should remember not to shoot the mes- Thaci’s aggressive statements in the police battering protesters are particu- senger. And the messenger in this case is the ordinary Would the Police have been run-up to the event were foolish and larly symbolic for Albanians and many Kosovo Police, which should not be held to account for were quick to draw parallels with Justified in Allowing the unquestionably added to the bellicose these events, because it was implementing orders from atmosphere, although I feel that a clash Milosevic’s regime. on high. Protest to Go Ahead? was inevitable by that point. But we must not forget that violent Despite claims from the Quint states and EU officials Amnesty International’s much-quot- confrontation between police and pro- that Vetevendosje would be held responsible for any VV wanted to blockade Kosovo’s bor- ed statement condemned the excessive testers is pretty common throughout the escalation, this time it was the Government of Kosovo der with Serbia – a relatively common use of force. world, even in countries with the best who interrupted the flow of an otherwise peaceful form of protest. Its argument is based on the interna- records for human rights. protest. French unions often use this form of tional standards for “unlawful” protests. The EU, using an eye-witness report Statements issued during the week from the interna- direct action at ports serviced by fer- “In the dispersal of assemblies that are from EULEX, has suggested force was tional community aimed at discouraging Albin Kurti ries to the UK. unlawful but non-violent, law enforce- proportional. There is strong evidence from this action had the complete opposite effect. These Perhaps if VV had suggested block- ment officials shall avoid the use of to suggest the contrary. statements and the week-long portrayal of the protest as ing the border for a few hours, it should force or, where that is not practicable, Amnesty finished it statement with hooliganism empowered the government in its cause have been allowed. shall restrict such force to the minimum this: “Amnesty International has previ- and “legitimised” the use of force. However, VV wanted to perform the extent necessary,” the statement reads. ously expressed concerns about the Concern of the international community about the role of pseudo-border guards, filtering It is therefore worth noting that excessive use of force in 2011 by the destabilising potential of the protest still stands and is a people along ethnic lines. Amnesty starts from the premise the NATO-led Kosovo force (KFOR) against rational one. Calling for the blocking of borders of a “We have informed the representa- protest was unlawful, and concedes that Kosovo Serbs protesting against the country and disrupting customs procedures, even peace- tives from the Presevo Valley, but use force can be used, if necessary. Kosovo government’s opening of border fully, definitely undermines state institutions and the the occasion to also inform citizens that It may seem heartless to point this posts in the northern municipalities.” country’s credibility. But, what happens when state on January 14, at the border of Merdare out, but police were charged with dis- This illustrates that the perception of institutions themselves breach the constitution of a and Dheu i Bardhë, we will block persing an illegal protest and even “excessive force” can be clouded by how country and the only viable way to change this state of Serbian not Albanian citizens who are though VV protesters were kneeling on much you associate with the protesters affairs appears to be protesting? discriminated against, and against the ground, the police’s job was to or the cause. It should be noted that Vetevendosje won its case by their will have ended up in the state of remove them. This is why some perspective is need- securing the required amount of votes for a motion of Serbia, " VV said in a press release on The only question was whether force ed in the form of an independent report reciprocity with Serbia in the parliament. The motion, January 10. “We will also allow could have been avoided, and if not, how unravelling the whole sequence of supported by opposition parties, was ratified by the par- Albanian manufacturers to pass freely much force was justified. events. liament and the government had to do its part with the who come from there.” If they later The balance of evidence is now point- execution of the plan. The one-month ultimatum given decided against ethnic checkpoints, VV ing towards the excessive use of force, A Love-Hate Relationship to the government by Vetevendosje for the implementa- should have made that clear. especially following the arrests. tion of the reciprocity measures was neglected by Given the clear decision by VV that Police may have been justified in I got the tone of my earlier article Hashim Thaci. they would allow Albanians living in attempting to clear the streets, but the wrong. This implies a serious breach of the constitution by Serbia through the blockade and not conclusions of the country’s I was not surprised by getting a past- the executive. And this is precisely where the interna- Serbs, and the attempt to bus in ombudsperson paint a worrying picture ing from the public – if you stick your tional community becomes hypocritical. Albanians from across the region, this of their conduct. neck above the parapet you should If law and order are the prime values the internation- protest clearly had an ethnic, national- Of particular concern is the decision expect some rotten eggs to be thrown at al community wants Kosovo to build, then why did they ist dimension. by the special police unit not to wear you – but I wasn’t quite prepared for fall short with their pressure on the government to How were VV intending to check their official insignia, making it diffi- such vitriol. adhere to the decisions of the parliament? How come we whether cars and commercial vehicles cult for officers to be identified. This is Kosovars are tired of being lectured can be selective in our breaches of constitution? Isn’t passing through were ethnic-Albanians serious breach of international stan- by foreigners for at least a decade. the West teaching us the wrong lessons on statehood? or Serbs? Were they going to check doc- dards. Those who pointed out that I can leave The international community should and must con- uments for names or interview the driv- It also suggests a premeditated plan to Kosovo when I choose, and it will never demn the escalation of the situation and the use of force ers? What if these Serbs were actually conceal police identities, perhaps with a be my birthplace, are right, but I do have by the police. citizens of Kosovo? view to using excessive force. a stake in its future - and a strong emo- Failing to hold the government accountable for both Playing border police may have been The ombudsperson also talks of the tional attachment to it. the escalation and neglect of the parliament not only “symbolic”, but it would nonetheless police’s “insulting and humiliating” Should debate be restricted along eth- shakes their credibility, but it also hints that when it have been wrong and dangerous. behaviour, threats to the ombudsper- nic lines as some implied? comes to constitutional breaches, internationals are No state can accept that members of son’s representatives, arbitrary arrests Can a foreigner who pays taxes in inclined to tackle only the ones which suit them. These the public carry out such a role, never in various business premises as well as Kosovo, and raises his children there, are definitely not the lessons we need to learn from the mind one with a history of war and of random pedestrians who were not a write freely about his fears for the coun- monitors of our independence and statehood. inter-ethnic conflict. part of the protest, and violence during try’s future? Finally, in the aftermath of Saturday, we come to I understand VV’s powerful mes- the transport of arrestees, even in the Can a Serb caught in a Vetevendosje understand that those who rose to power by rigging elec- sage– if parliament refuses to imple- police stations. protest or an Albanian in a Serb block- tions have now installed a brutal governance and tough ment our decisions, the people – or VV The Council for Protection of Rights ade feel welcome in their homeland? regime, where the government physically assaults the protesters at least – will. and Freedoms, which had monitors on I believe these questions to be one of Vice President of the Parliament, beats up and arrests Y But the action could have been held the ground, also criticised the police for the same. its own MPs, censors media and humiliates an entire M in a less provocative spot – central excessive force. It said that immediately I will leave you to ponder, but caution nation. C Prishtina – and still have delivered the after the police intervention, a “number that you won’t find an answer, or peace, This is the prosperous Republic, brought to us exclu- K message about democracy. of protesters” began gathering stones, on the road to Dheu i Bardhë. sively by the guy who supposedly will take us to the EU. comment Jan 20 - Feb 2, 2012 15 Ecosovo New Force Vows to Break You Are What You Mould in Albania Throw Away The nationalistic Red and Black Alliance is the new kid on the block in Albania – but is it the equiva- lent of a meteorite, flashing briefly across the sky, or a lasting addition to the arena? quality that has mostly been absent of certain government decisions consid- By Elizabeth Gowing during Albania’s 20 years of pluralism. ered detrimental to Albanian interests. All other southeast European coun- One was the closed-door sea border ou are what you throw away; the lesson of Bob By Besian Bocka tries already have some sort of a sizable demarcation negotiations with Greece, Dylan for composting AJ Weberman created his nationalist party in the parliament. which apparently favoured the Greek Ytheories about Bob Dylan based around what he Although the movement has a nation- side and which, after a series of found in the musician’s garbage. Scrabbling in Mr lbania is stuck in a prolonged alistic agenda, according to its state- protests, were struck down by political malaise, partly owing to Tambourine Man’s bin apparently he found old under- ments it does not aim to create a Albania’s Constitutional Court. pants and unused toothpaste. Fascinating? Athe prevalence of a two-party “Greater Albania” but merely to foster Considering the influence of system that has dominated the country I’m more interested in the painstaking analysis of the the rights of Albanians living through- Albania’s neighbour to the south, sensi- for 20 years and whose beneficiaries are household garbage of Prizren that has been carried out out the region. tive bilateral issues tend to be down- widely seen as two sides of the same recently as a feasibility study for recycling and other According to its website, the princi- played by whoever is in power in coin. waste management initiatives. Respect to those who went pal goals are “to protect the Tirana. During the past few months, however, through the city’s refuse with their clipboards and who Constitution of the Republic and One such issue that was on the back- a new organization, originally inspired reveal to us that if – as AJ Weberman claims – we are what defend human and national dignity by burner for a long time, that of the by soccer fans, has developed ambitions we throw away, this is what we are: 35 per cent organic; 21 transforming these into symbols of Cham Albanian minority, expelled from to enter parliament. per cent glass; 11 per cent wood; 9 per cent plastic; 9 per resistance for the [benefit of the] Greece during the Second World War, The Red and Black Alliance has a cent metal; 8 per cent textile; and 5 per cent paper. national cause. has recently gained more traction. nationalistic platform geared towards The figures are good news for Kosovo’s landfill because “The AK aims to protect the religious The nationalist PDIU, which forms garnering the patriotic vote. By playing it means that 35 per cent of household waste (all that and ethnic harmony in the country that part of Berisha’s governing coalition, this card it poses a clear threat to the organic stuff) doesn’t need to be collected at all. exemplifies our nation,” it adds. garnered most of its votes by champi- voting base of the governing centre- All this can be composted in gardens and with careful The organisation insists it has no oning this issue. right Democratic Party led by Sali management the aerobic composting process won’t pro- irredentist agenda; instead its goal is to However, considering the influence Berisha and to a certain degree that of duce the greenhouse gas methane which accumulates if see the Albanian people united under that Athens has on Albania’s Euro- the opposition Socialists led by Edi organic waste is left in plastic bags in the garbage depot. the umbrella of the EU. Atlantic integration hopes, the govern- Rama. Not only will no methane be generated and no landfill The Deputy Chairman of the High ment itself treats the issue of the Cham It could possibly become a party to space taken up, but the resulting compost can be used for Judicial Council, Kreshnik Spahiu, who expellees - and their demands for com- reckon with and a kingmaker in any digging into to support new growth of flowers or vegeta- strode to leadership of the alliance, has pensation - as taboo. future government coalition, similar to bles. It will even reduce the need for chemical fertilizers. been able to refocus the organis ation’s By contrast, the Red and Black the Socialist Movement for Integration, Whatever we do with our underpants and our toothpaste, LSI. ambitions, giving it a broader appeal Alliance remains vociferous on the we’d be fools not to take the simple steps to compost our There are already rumours that and cohesion - a far cry from its roots in Cham issue and on the treatment of potato peelings, egg shells and used teabags. when President Bamir Topi’s mandate the world of soccer fans. Albanian immigrants in Greece. Last week a conference was held to share these expires in 2012, he may be asked to head There have been attempts before in The advantage of the AK lies in its approaches, and a practical guide to composting. of Red and Black Alliance. Albania by other political forces to appeal to Albanians living in the broad- Travelling to Klina – the “garden of Kosovo” – I never- But can this new force break the 20- carry the “patriotic” banner, such as er region as well as Greece. theless went to the event with some trepidation, imagin- year political mould and become the the Party for Justice, Integration and The organisation has members in ing spending a day talking rubbish in an over-lit room fourth contender in Albania’s political Unity, PDIU. neighbouring Kosovo and in with a handful of farmers. life? This government party runs on a Macedonia; its leaders claim that the What I found in the hotel next to the Mirusha waterfall And if it does, will it bring further nationalist platform and promotes the organisation’s purpose is to unite all (a great reminder of the environment we want to protect) openness to Albania’s political arena, concerns of Albanians living in neigh- Albanians on a voluntary basis in the was a vibrant well attended day of ideas and participation bouring countries where they consti- common cause of Albanian identity. where the Democratic Party, the by people with a passion for well-managed decomposition. tute a considerable minority. If the Red and Black Alliance fulfils Socialists and its offshoot, the Socialist The ECLO-funded event was held by Agroklina But the AK seems to have momentum its potential and becomes a serious fac- Movement for integration, currently (Agroklina’s cute logo is a circle made up of leaves in differ- that the other nationalist parties lack, tor in Albanian politics, the main polit- hold absolute sway? ent stages of rot; it’s a difficult thing to pull off, but they’ve partly because it has no stake in the ical parties may have to adjust their Despite being a new organization, the managed it nicely) together with the Kosovo Ecologists current politics. goals and indeed their partners. alliance can boast of more Facebook Society, and their informed presentations and practical What has also caused a surge in sup- The question is whether the organi- members than either the Socialist or guides (in English and Albanian) were an inspiration. port for the AK have been other issues sation is just an other political mete- the Democratic Party, which demon- If you’re interested in getting hold of one of their com- at the forefront of their agenda, such as orite, coming in fast with a bang and post manuals then get in touch at [email protected]. strates the strength of its appeal to the their recent call to boycott the census, eventually fizzling out like so many oth- But, to be honest, you don’t need a conference or a man- young. which according to them divided people ers before it - or whether it will become ual. You need a bin with some holes in it (to let in the oxy- The organization has also stepped up on ethnic and religious grounds. a permanent fixture of Albania’s politi- gen which helps compost to rot down without producing its presence by opening branches in all A petition initiative by alliance to cal arena. Only time will tell. methane or the associated smell). western capitals with an Albanian dias- stop the census gathered 40,000 signa- You need to put a mixture of organic waste (a basic rule pora. tures within days, and paradoxically Besian Bocka is program manager is that you can safely compost anything that was once With a third of Albania’s population won backing from all ethnic minority and research associate with the New alive – but therefore not cooked food like pasta or bread) living abroad and the influence of parties, as they also considered the cen- European Democracies Program at the trying to balance ‘green waste’ (garden cuttings, vegeta- Albanian expat communities hitherto sus flawed. Center for Strategic and International bles) and ‘brown waste’ (wood, paper) to balance the nitro- left untapped, the alliance is laying the The current parties with a nationalist Studies (CSIS). This comment does not gen and carbon content of the compost. groundwork for becoming a political platform that are part of the ruling represent the opinion of CSIS and the It needs to be kept warm (some people insulate their party. coalition have lost credibility in the eyes views expressed are solely those of the compost bins with an old carpet over the top) and moist The newcomer certainly brings a of the people due to their tacit approval author. (add water if necessary). Then it needs to be turned or stirred (e.g. with a stick) every so often to keep things mixing. Easy Medium Hard If we are what we throw away |y | y| y then in this case we are a rich 6974 48 15 9 245 mulch, maturing nicely in order that we can help grow next year’s 5 43 4632vegetables. I’d rather be characterised like 2431 8 17 97 that than as a dingy pair of pants or a swelling methane-filled plas- 67 8 93 24tic bag chucked out on the waste- land somewhere near Lipjan. 84 82 46 26 17 Elizabeth Gowing is a founder of 59 39The Ideas Partnership, a Kosovan 182 NGO working on educational, cul- 2 3891 2989 tural and environmental projects. She is also the author of the recent- 1 43 2498 ly-published, Travels in Blood and Y Honey; becoming a beekeeper in M 736587 52 357 2 Kosovo. She can be reached at thei- C [email protected] K 16 Jan 20 - Feb 2, 2012 marketing

AMAZINGLY AFFORDABLE PRICES

Prishtina ››› Stuttgart › München › Hamburg › Köln › Berlin › Düsseldorf › Hannover › Frankfurt ›

Prishtina ››› Zürich › Genève › Vienna

Skopje ››› Zürich › Düsseldorf

www.flyksa.com

Y 038 220 220 M C K