Els Ports Natural Park

en Els Ports Natural Park

Parc Natural Generalitat dels Ports de Catalunya

Els Ports, the mountains located in Catalonia, Valencia and Aragón, are a limestone massif of scarped, abrupt relief that humans have shaped since prehistoric times. In Els Ports human beings have always found a source of natural resources for their subsistence and for their interests. Subtle fragments of history such as masía farmhouses, lime kilns, snow wells, charcoal bunkers, dry stone walls and stone-paved paths currently shape the landscape. Despite the intense human impact, the current appearance of this territory, which historically has been much explored and exploited, is of an untameable natural area brimming with wildlife. The importance of its natural values and the need to conserve them prompted the Government of Catalonia to create the Els Ports Natural Park and the Les Fagedes dels Ports Partial Nature Reserve, two regulatory mechanisms of special protection intended to guarantee the preservation of their natural values and to ensure the sustainable use of resources.

The physical environment del Regatxol at the headwaters of the Ulldemó the vent de dalt (hurricane-level NW winds) can River and the valleys near Mas de la Franqueta, occur in an instant. Gusts of over 150 kph are along Els Estrets. also frequent. The relief The mountains in the massif are remarkable for In the south of the massif, at the more humid Els Ports are a massif with a very complex relief their height and unique nature and cover a large points of the upper levels, there are beech that lie between the Catalan Mediterranean area above an altitude of 1,000 metres. Caro, at woods, which are relict communities from earlier system and the Iberian system. This is formed by 1,441 metres, is the highest point of the massif. wetter and colder periods. Mesozoic calcareous materials that have yielded an abrupt relief broken by several faults with Climate some significant thrust faults. A system of faults separates it from the coastal plains. The climate in Els Ports is very variable. There is a notable difference among the massif’s It has a noteworthy northern face of different slopes and altitude and orientation are conglomerates facing the Ebro depression, highly influential factors. Temperatures on the characteristic of Les Roques de Benet, El Cover: Portella de Calça Mediterranean-influenced south-eastern slope Terres Magazine Periganyol and Sant Salvador. The central are considerably milder than those on the inland structure is a Jurassic-type fold that runs slope, the conditions of which are much more Previous page: Inland slope of Els Ports Natural Park. northeast-southwest. Arnes and Horta de Sant Joan. continental. At altitude, the climate becomes Lluís Mestres In the western sector, the main rivers have carved sub-Mediterranean, which is reflected in an deep and highly spectacular gorges. Such is the increase in precipitation and lower temperatures. This page: Italian maple leaves (Acer opalus subsp. case of the Matarranya River at Les Gúbies del Like other aspects of Els Ports, climate is granatense) Parrissal –outside the Natural Park–, Les Gúbies extremely variable. Changes from total calm to Víctor Reverté - Arabogues

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present in Catalonia can be found in this nature Fauna area. The Spanish pond turtle (Mauremys leprosa), the Mediterranean house gecko (Hemidactylus The highly diverse biotopes of Els Ports have yielded turcicus), the Bedriaga’s skink (Chalcides a rich and varied fauna. The fauna populations of bedriagai), the horseshoe whip snake (Hemorrhois Els Ports are of great interest not only because of hippocrepis), the smooth snake (Coronella austriaca) 14 their abundance and the variety of species, but also and the snub-nosed viper (Vipera latastei) are 6 7 8 because some animals are endemic or very rare for significant examples. Catalan fauna. The situation is similar for amphibians and over One distinctive feature of its fauna is the population 50 % of the species of amphibians presents in of Spanish ibex (Capra pyrenaica subsp. hispanica). Catalonia have been documented in Els Ports. This species is endemic to the Iberian Peninsula and Interesting species such as the Iberian ribbed newt 15 its hunting is controlled in Els Ports by the National (Pleurodeles waltl), the marbled newt (Triturus 16 Hunting Reserve. The most significant mammals marmoratus) and the Common parsley frog 9 10 11 include the otter (Lutra lutra),6 the wildcat (Felis (Pelodytes punctatus) can be found. Their presence sylvestris),7 the group of bats,8 which includes in Els Ports is very important, as it indicates the some twenty species and is one of the most diverse existence of humid areas and sufficient watering communities in the Iberian Peninsula. points for their survival, a circumstance that is always remarkable in an essentially Mediterranean climate There are many birds in Els Ports as habitat or refuge and landscape. conditions are ideal for living there and nesting. 12 13 14 These include large sedentary birds of prey such as In the rivers there is a significant presence of the Griffon vulture (Gyps fulvus), the golden eagle populations of species such as the Iberian cyprinid (Aquila chrysaetos), Bonelli’s eagle (Aquila fasciata),9 fish (Parachondrostoma miegii), the Iberian barbell 17 the Northern goshawk (Accipiter gentilis), the (Achondrostoma arcasii), the European freshwater peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus),10 the Eurasian crayfish (Austrapotamobius pallipes) and the 18 eagle owl (Bubo bubo),11 etc., and summer nesters splendid cruiser dragonfly (Macromia splendens). such as the short-toed snake eagle (Circaetus Land invertebrates include endemic species of 15 16 17 gallicus),12 the booted eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus), molluscs, spiders and butterflies and moths that and the Egyptian vulture (Neophron percnopterus),13 feature on the list of species protected in the Plan etc. Other interesting species include the black for Spaces of Natural Interest of Catalonia, as well wheatear (Oenanthe leucura), the citril finch (Carduelis as other interesting species such as the futile citrinella) and the Dartford warbler (Sylvia undata). stone grasshopper (Kurtharzia nugatoria)19 and the 20 There are also a considerable number and variety Spanish moon moth (Graellsia isabellae). of reptiles in Els Ports and over 50% of the species 18 19 20

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Anthyllidetum montanae) and conopodium and fine- Flora and vegetation leaf fescue (Conopodio-Festucetum gautieri). There are significant and interesting endemic The location of the Els Ports massif between the rock species such as the butterwort (Pinguicula mountains in the Iberian system and the Catalan dertosensis),21 which is found on wet limestone Mediterranean system has given rise to a very rich crags, a species of willow (Salix tarraconensis), rock 21 22 23 and diverse flora and vegetation, where typically snapdragons (Antirrhinum pertegasii),22 encrusted Mediterranean species coexist with Eurosiberian-type saxifrage (Saxifraga longifolia subsp. longifolia var. species and even with some local representatives of aitanica),23 Aquilegia paui,24 Armeria fontqueri,25 boreal Alpine vegetation. The high diversity of plants Erodium celtibericum, Arenaria conimbricensis subsp. and wealth of endemism make the Els Ports massif a viridis, Thymus willcommii,26 etc. true geobotanical paradise with over 1,300 species. Other plant species are interesting either because the The lower areas and the sunny and eastern slopes 24 25 26 massif represents the limit to their area of distribution are predominated by maquis of garrigue and dwarf or because they form biogeographcally isolated palms (Querco-Lentiscetum). On the western slope, populations such as Dryopteris submontana, Phyllitis which is cooler and more continental, the basal sagittata, Gymnocarpium robertianum, Prunus floor is occupied by the Mediterranean evergreen prostrata,27 Nepeta tuberosa, Ramonda myconi,28 Quercus (Quercetum rotundifoliae). In the highest Berberis vulgaris subsp. seroi, Atropa baetica,29 etc. zone, the potential vegetation is the montane oak (Quercetum mediterraneo-montanum). The sub- The beech forests of these mountains, which are 27 28 29 Mediterranean floor consists mainly ofblack pine the Iberian Peninsula’s southernmost, are of special woods (Paeonio microcarpae-Pinetum salzmannii) interest and receive special protection from the Les and Scots’ pine and manzanitas (Arctostaphylo- Fagedes dels Ports Partial Nature Reserve. 1. Griffon vulture (Gyps fulvus) Vicent Pellicer Pinetum catalaunicae); and in the most disturbed places there are boxwoods (Violo-Quercetum faginae 2. Spanish ibex female and young (Capra pyrenaica subsp. buxetosum) and other shrub formations. In the hispanica) wettest points of the upper levels, in the south of the Vicent Pellicer massif, there are beech woods (Primulo-Fagetum) and yew forests (Saniculo-Taxetum), which are relict 3. Mediterranean stream vegetation communities from other wetter and colder times. Ana Ávila Aguilà The ridges, which are subject to strong winds for 4. Beech forests much of the year, have species characteristics of the Terres Magazine Mediterranean high mountains, with communities typical of Catalonia’s southern mountains such as 5. Black pine and crags Jarkov Reverté blue broom and Anthyllis montana (Erinaceo-

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Els Ports Natural Park Headquarters Interpretation centre or museum Motorway Els Ports Natural Park How to get there

Visitor centre and information point Interpretation area National / Catalan A-road Partial Nature Reserve The railway runs to Tortosa from where there are regular buses to all the towns Hostel and Environmental Education Center Historic centre Catalan B-road Wildlife Sanctuary in the Park. The interior of the park area is reached by mountain roads or forests tracks, most of which are unpaved. A Car park Religious building of interest Asphalted road Font: Institut Cartogràﬁc de Catalunya private vehicle is necessary. It may also be reached on foot. We recommend you Viewpoint Monumental tree Car track start from Prat de Comte, Paüls or Alfara de Carles.

Picnic areas Peak 4 x 4 track Renfe 912 320 320 Walking trails Barrier or chain Long distance hiking trail www.renfe.com

Autobuses Hife Unstaffed refuge Green Way Railway 902 119 814 www.hife.es Staffed or locked refuge Green Way Station Community boundary 1 2

La Sénia The towns This is the Park’s southernmost town. It is the site of the Park Visitors’ Centre in the El Montsià region. The Each town in the Natural Park offers a different main access to Els Ports is by La Fou ravine, where there is a recreation area and different itineraries. This gateway to the nature area. Accommodation to suit 5 6 7 you is available: hostels, country cottages, hotels, same path leads to close-by to Les Fagedes dels campsites, etc. Ports Partial Nature Reserve.

Alfara de Carles Mas de Barberans Town surrounded by mountains in the middle of This is a natural viewpoint over La Galera plain and the Ebro Delta. Visits can be made to the Museum the Natural Park. It has a Hostel and the Park 8 9 10 Environmental Education Centre. You can visit Els of Weaving. In August, a monographic fair on plant Ports from El Toscar or La Font Nova, which are fibre handicrafts is held. A few kilometres from the starting points for different itineraries. town are the Cocó de la Gralla rock paintings and the La Vall recreation area, which is the starting point for Arnes different itineraries.

A stroll is recommended through the streets of this Paüls 11 12 13 village, stopping before the Renaissance façade of the council building and visiting the Honey Town on a hill with steep, narrow streets. It is Roquetes Interpretation Centre. The Honey Festival is held in possible to walk from the town among cherry This is the administrative site and the Park Visitors’ May. From here, outings can be made to Els Estrets orchards to the recreation area and the Sant Roc Centre in El Baix Ebre region. Take the El Caragol de Arnes, to Santa Madrona and to Toll del Vidre. hermitage. The Cherry Fair is held in June. road from Roquetes to access the El Portell viewpoint, the Cova Avellanes recreation area and Prat de Comte Horta de Sant Joan the viewpoint of Caro, which at 1,441 metres is the Town with a rich historical heritage. Take a stroll Located at the foot of Els Ports, Prat de Comte is highest point in Els Ports. through the old town and visit the Picasso Centre home to the Park Visitors’ Centre in La Terra Alta Tortosa and Els Ports Ecomuseum and other sites. Near region. The Liquor Festival is held in October. A the town is the oldest tree in Catalonia, an olive few kilometres away are the La Jepa valle area, the Tortosa is the main town in El Baix Ebre region and tree known as Lo Parot. On the inside of Els Ports, greenway and the sanctuary of La Fontcalda. Very the centre of commerce and of services. It lies on La Franqueta recreation area is a starting point for close to the town is the area of El Molí, the starting both sides of the Ebro River and has a significant several itineraries. point for an itinerary and from which to enter Els historical town centre. Els Reguers is the town of Ports along the GR long distance trail to the Engrilló Tortosa closest to Els Ports. From its site in the hill, which boasts one of the best views over the Les middle of the plain there is an exceptional view of the Terres de l’Ebre territory. maritime slope of the massif.

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massif and for enjoying views of the mouth of the Visiting the Park Ebro from La Moleta. At Alfara de Carles, El Toscar is set in a closed valley with a considerable human influence, in which water rises from numerous Els Ports Natural Park has recreation zones located springs. It can be covered on different signposted at different accesses to the protected area. These itineraries. From Paüls it is possible to enter Els 15 16 zones are also a place for rest and leisure, the Ports via the Sant Roc recreation area on the El starting point for family itineraries and hikes for Pla de l’Hedra, La Font del Teix and La Font dels whoever wishes to enjoy and respect nature. Ullals itineraries. In the heart of the Park is the Cova Avellanes area, with the El Pla d’Avària and El Marturi Recreation areas and itineraries itineraries and, at the summit, the La Barcina, Els In La Terra Alta region, the La Franqueta recreation Bassis de Caro and La Cima de Caro itineraries. 14 17 18 area is the starting point for the Picasso cave, the Long-distance trails Mas de Corretja and the Estrets de Arnes itineraries. Prat de Comte, Horta de Sant Joan and Arnes. This valley is a showcase for both natural and cultural The two long distance trails (GR) that pass through The El Baix Ebre section offers the best view of the values. The places where Picasso lived and the the Park penetrate hidden landscapes, steep ravines, massif form the plain; and in La Terra Alta penetrates rural constructions such as the masía farmhouses cliffs and forests. The GR-7 crosses the massif Mediterranean forests following the course of the and lime kilns stand out particularly. Arnes is the lengthwise between Fredes and Paüls. The GR-171 Canaletes River. site –albeit outside the Park– of the Santa Madrona variant runs between El Mascar, Alfara de Carles, recreation area on the banks of the Algars River, Paüls and Prat de Comte. The GR-8 joins Beceite which has a zone for bathing known as La Palanca. and La Font Ferrera. From the Molí area, at Prat de Comte, it is possible to take the La Mola itinerary or climb the GR long Another interesting option is the southern Els distance trail up to the Montsagre zone. Estels route. This route, which is almost 100 km long and divided into five stages, joins sections El Montsià region includes the La Fou and La Vall of GR, itineraries and other well-established trails. 1. Paüls recreation areas. The El Racó itinerary from the Accommodation is available in staffed refuges in the Josep Sabaté Marc en La Vall cave features some very attractive Park or in country cottages in the villages. geological formations, and the Mas de Barró itinerary 2. El Portell viewpoint. Roquetes offers one of the best view of Les Faixes, a landscape Greenways and cycle touring Josep Maria Forcadell of rocks and forests remarkable for the colour of the The greenways of El Baix Ebre and La Terra Alta beech trees in autumn. The Els Hortets and Cova regions join up to take cyclists from Tortosa to 3. Environmental education activity Roja path itineraries at La Fou climb up among Alcañiz, in Aragón, along a 110-km route. It follows Victor Reverté - Arabogues ravines, by cliffs and among pine forests. the former Val de Zafán railway, which has now been 4. La Franqueta recreation area. Horta de Sant Joan In Baix Ebre region, the Font Nova zone is the renovated for walkers and cyclists. The greenway Marc Garriga alternative for discovering the coastal slope of the leads to the towns of Els Ports, Tortosa, Roquetes,

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Do not clean or use soaps in springs and Refuges Guidelines and advice watercourses.

Staffed refuges Enjoy and respect nature. Preservation of the Park’s values is Do not pick plants; some are protected and it is our Caro refuge. Tortosa everyone’s business. responsibility to conserve them. Do not collect rocks 977 267 128 | 617 808 816 or any type of mineral; they are protected heritage. Caro UEC refuge. Alfara de Carles Hikers’ Union of Catalonia Before entering the Natural Park, go to the Park’s 681 011 577 visitor centres and information points, where you will Do not fish or catch any animal. be advised on how to enjoy your visit to the full. La Font Ferrera refuge. La Sénia Federation of Hikers’ Organisations of Catalonia 607 440 793 | 977 588 668 | 977 094 125 Hiking is the best way to discover the heritage of the natural areas. Follow the signposted tracks and paths. Motor traffic is controlled. Observe the signposts and Unstaffed refuges with key It is easy to get disoriented in the abrupt terrain of do not drive off the tracks. Quads and ATV vehicles These are locked. Request the key beforehand. Els Ports. may only be driven along tarmacked roads. La Font Nova refuge. Alfara de Carles Help to keep the environment clean. Take rubbish Xerta Cultural and Hikers’ Centre Remember that the maximum permitted speed is away and dispose of it selectively in the nearest 686 419 823 30 30 kph. appropriate containers. Free refuges These simple shelters open for everyone to use. You may Do not make fire. Any negligence could destroy what Respect private property. The mountains and forests therefore find them occupied. Some can only be reached on foot. nature has taken hundreds of years to create. have owners. Respect fences, croplands and other * Caro UEC refuge. Alfara de Carles privately-owned infrastructures. Hikers’ Union of Catalonia Respect the flora and fauna. Observe nature without 681 011 577 interfering with it. Fighting bulls graze freely in the Park. Be careful as Cova Cambra refuge. Tortosa they can be dangerous. UEC - Tortosa 977 443 271 Do not make unnecessary noise that could disturb the * La Font Ferrera refuge. La Sénia peace and quiet and affect wildlife. Silence is a value Much of the Park is also a national hunting reserve Federation of Hikers’ Organisations of Catalonia that must be conserved. in which highly controlled hunting takes place. When 607 440 793 | 977 588 668 | 977 094 125 planning a trip in the reserve during the hunt season, Keep pets on a leash. Les Clotes refuge. Horta de Sant Joan consult the wild boar hunt calendar beforehand. UEC - Tortosa 977 443 271 Use of the forest resources is regulated by the Mas de Damià refuge. Arnes Do not release fauna. Arnes Town Council byelaws. When picking wild mushrooms, consult and 977 435 134 follow the Park’s regulations and advice. El Mas del Torrero – Terranyes refuge. Arnes Catalunya-La Pedrera Foundation Bathing is a controlled activity. El Toll Blau, on the Els Any activity in a group of over 40 people, more than 4 93 214 25 62 Estrets River, and El Toll del Vidre, on the Algars River, vehicles, or more than 7 motorcycles or quads requires * The free part of the refuge is unavailable when the staffed part are the only two places in the entire Park where bathing prior permission. Please consult. is open. is allowed.

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In the Park limits, camping is only allowed in Natural Park administrative headquarters General information the Els Ateus area (Horta de Sant Joan). Other accommodation is available in the towns of the Park. Av. de La Val de Zafán, s/n. Apartat de correus, 70 Area covered 43520 Roquetes 35,050 ha, which include 867 ha of nature reserve and 205 ha Climbing inside the Park is a controlled activity. Please Tél. 977 504 012 of wildlife refuge. consult. [email protected] Municipalities and regions El Baix Ebre: Alfara de Carles, Paüls, Roquetes, Tortosa Canyoning inside the Park is a controlled activity. El Montsià: La Sénia, Mas de Barberans Please consult. Visitor centres and other facilities La Terra Alta: Arnes, Horta de San Juan, Prat de Comte Declaration El Baix Ebre region Park Visitors’ Centre Decree 160/2001, of 12 June, on the declaration of Els Ports Caving inside the Park is a controlled activity. Please Av. de La Val de Zafán, s/n consult. Natural Park and of the Les Fagedes dels Ports Nature Reserve. 43520 Roquetes Tél. 977 500 845 Other legal measures of protection Making films, documentaries, advertisements, etc., [email protected] – 2006 Els Estrets de Arnes wildlife refuge and photography of sensitive species requires prior – 2006 Special Protection Area for Birds (SPA), Natura 2000 El Montsià region Park Visitors’ Centre authorisation. – 2013 Biosphere reserve, EbreBiosfera Paseo de la Clotada, 23-25 – 2014 Special Area of Conservation (SAC) 43560 La Sénia Follow the indications of forestry agents and official Tél. 977 576 156 Park personnel, landowners and local residents. [email protected] La Terra Alta region Park Visitors’ Centre Ctra. T-330, km 27 Emergency Tel. No.: 112 43595 Prat de Comte Tél. 977 428 177 [email protected] 1. El Coll Roig or La Refoia pool Molí de l’Oli information point Terres Magazine C. de Aragó, 2 43597 Arnes 2. Beech (Fagus sylvatica) Tél. 977 435 728 Terres Magazine [email protected] Els Ports Ecomuseum information point 3. Capatx ravine. La Sénia C. de Picasso, 18 Terres Magazine 43596 Horta de Sant Joan Tél. 977 435 686 4. Els Ports Natural Park Visitor Centre [email protected] Parque Natural de Els Ports www.elsports.cat Back cover: Hostal and Environmental Education Centre Further information on visiting and discovering the Park is Les Fagedes dels Ports Partial Nature Reserve Route d’Alfara de Carles à Els Reguers, km 0,3 available at: Terres Magazine 43528 Alfara de Carles parcsnaturals.gencat.cat/es/ports

(Consult opening times on the Park website) www.facebook.com/PNPorts 8 Government of Catalonia

Els Ports Natural Park Av. Val de Zafán, s/n. Apartat de correus, 70, 43520 Roquetes. Tel. : 977 504 012 [email protected] Texts and images revised and updated, 2019.

With the support from:

Thanks to authors for allowing the use of the photos in the mosaics on pages 2, 3, 6 and 7: Horta de Sant Joan Town Council (p. 7, photo 18) | F. Amat and J. M. Rojo (p. 2, photo 15) | R. Balada (p. 2, photos 8, 11, 20) | J. Beltran (p. 3, photo 29) | A. Borau - ICRA (p. 2, photo 9) | T. Buira (p. 3, photos 21, 22, 24, 25, 26, 27) | F. Cámara - CENEAM - Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries, Food and Environment (p. 2, photo 7) | J. M. Forcadell (p. 2, photo 17; p. 3, photo 28) | A. Gallés - Galanthus (p. 6, photos 8, 12, 13) | Guies del Port (p. 7, photo 17) | Inspira Publicidad (p. 6, photos 9, 10) | J. Mestre (p. 2, photo 18; p. 3 ,photo 23; p. 6, photos 5, 6, 7, 11) | X. Parellada (p. 2, photo 10) | V. Reverté - Arabogues (p. 2, photo 16; p. 7, photo 14) | J. Ruiz (p. 2, photo 6) | R. Valverde (p. 2, photos 13, 14) | J. Vidal (p. 2, photo 12) | Els Ports Natural Park archive (p. 2, photo 19; p. 7, photos 15, 16).