Naturetrek Tour Report 7 – 14 April 2015

Crete

Naturetrek Tour Report 7 – 14 April 2015

Crown Anemone at Omalos Collared Flycatcher

Squacco Heron at Agia Reservoir Naked Man Orchids

Report & images compiled by Jenny and John Willsher

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Crete Tour Report

Tour Leaders: Jenny and John Willsher and 14 clients

Summary

We enjoyed a successful week in Crete, despite some dramatic weather at the beginning, exploring various habitats on this fascinating and friendly island. The flora of Crete is abundant and particularly exciting, ten percent of the plants being endemic. Though the season was a little late, the roadside flora is always rich and colourful, with sweeps of Crown Daisy and stately spikes of Giant Fennel. High on the Omalos plateau, it is difficult to predict the timing of spring and, this year, the snow had only just cleared from the roads. So the drifts of Tulipa bakeri we were hoping for were only evident from their leaves. But the ground was sprinkled with blue, pink and scarlet Crown Anemones and the intriguing green Widow Iris. The ‘Orchid Hill’ at Spili did not disappoint, but the weather limited our time there as it was wet and very windy. Many interesting bird species were seen, including some spring migrants on their way north. We started our week in the south of the island, based at Plakias, where we explored the local headlands, valleys and gorges. We travelled east to visit the archaeological site of Festos. We then headed west to Chania for the last three nights of the tour. The enthusiasm, patience and tolerance of the group contributed enormously to the success of the week and it proved to be a great week of good company, birds, flowers and food!

Day 1 Tuesday 7th April

Arrive at Iraklion, transfer to hotel in Plakias. Our flight arrived on time and we were soon on our way west, with the backdrop to our left of Mt. Psiloritis covered in fresh snow. Then we travelled south at Rethymnon, towards our seaside hotel in the small resort of Plakias, on the south coast of the island. A brief stop on the north coast road at Geropotomas Bridge provided a leg stretch and a brief foray into the roadside habitat. A common plant of the phrygana (low growing plants – garrigue in the westerm Mediterranean) is Mastic (Pistacia lentiscus) from which an aromatic gum is collected. We also found Prasium (Prasium majus) with its bright green foliage and white flowers, Phlomis cretica, a smaller version of Jerusalem Sage, Field Gladiolus and, in the grass at the edge of the track, our first orchid, Ophrys cretica, with its black and white lip. Across the small river, a Kestrel hovered, and a Cetti’s Warbler sang loudly from the reeds below. Some had a brief view of two Purple Herons, a Kingfisher was heard and, on the river margins, numerous terrapins sunbathed.

On the road south of Armeni, we stopped at a cafe overlooking a green valley with the southern mountains beyond. We enjoyed a drink in the sunshine, sheltering from the strong northerly wind.

To reach the south coast, we had to pass through the Kourtalatiki Gorge where we stopped briefly, but the wind kept the few Griffon Vultures, Crag Martins and Jackdaws high up the cliff. It was difficult birdwatching, although there was a brief view of a Bonelli’s Eagle and, as we left the gorge, a couple of Red-rumped Swallows flew past. At our feet, amongst the gravel, were the tiny flowers of Burnt Candytuft (Aetheonema saxatile), Silene colorata, and tight buds of the endemic Centaurea raphanina subsp. raphanina while, amongst the rocks, were bright green cushions of Greek Spiny Spurge (Euphorbia acanthothamnos) and a solitary cyclamen – the white Cyclamen creticum. Leaving the gorge, it was a short distance to Plakias, along roadsides colourful with Giant Fennel, Crown Daisies and the lilac thistle, Galactites.

Crete Tour Report

Day 2 Wednesday 8th April

Moni Prevelli, Kourtaliotiko Gorge, Spili and Kotsiphos Gorge After a welcome breakfast, we set off to explore the valley leading to Moni Prevelli. At our first stop, we took a short walk through some Olive orchards towards the river. A few Common and Alpine Swifts, plus numerous House Martins, were flying low, feeding in this sheltered area. A Woodchat Shrike conveniently perched whilst we 'scoped it and Cetti’s Warblers loudly chattered. Buzzards soared over hills to the south and a distant Lammergeier was watched briefly as it glided along the ridge. Among the bushes of the pink-flowered Salvia triloba were Salsify, Tassel Hyacinth and some of the many vetches which we would find over the next week, with their intriguing seed pods, including the red Asparagus Pea, Starry Clover, Toothed Medick and, with the biggest seed pod, the Carob Tree (Ceratonia siliqua). Also there were many spikes of Serapias bergonii. On the walls of an abandoned building were many tufts of Rusty-backed Fern, the tiny fern Cheilanthes acrostica and the diminutive Campanula erinus. Continuing on, we headed to Moni Prevelli monastery. Some visited the monastery, learning about the important role it played in the evacuation of allied troops during the last war. Others wandered and scanned the hillsides for birds and flowers. Corn Buntings and Woodlarks sang from the power lines and we also saw several Stonechats, a Blue Rock Thrush and Sardinian Warblers. Migrants included Hoopoe, Golden Oriole, Pied and Collared Flycatcher, Nightingale and Black Redstart. There were some good spikes of Verbascum macrurum, many vetches and, in the hillside phrygana of Greek Spiny Spurge, Cretan Cistus and Spiny Savory, were Star Hawkbit, the delicate Malva cretica, Scarlet and Blue Pimpernel and Pyramidal Orchid.

A detour down to a car park for Prevelli beach was productive for birds, with Greater Short-toed Larks, a Tawny Pipit, Crested Lark, a fine male Collared Flycatcher and a Black-headed Yellow Wagtail. Parking at the river crossing at the Turkish bridge, we negotiated the use of the café tables in exchange for the purchase of drinks and use of the facilities. It was a very pleasant setting for our first picnic, with Oriental Plane Trees just coming into leaf, the Storax tree almost in flower by the bridge, and Swallows swooping low over the river. Cetti’s Warblers and Blackcaps were singing and another Collared Flycatcher was spotted. After lunch and a quick stop at the bottom of the gorge, spotting a Griffon Vulture on its nest, we headed into the hills behind the little town of Spili. The focus here was on the botanical riches of this now partially protected area. But the weather was against us. As we drove up the switchback road, the cloud closed in. So we had little time to explore this amazing place and enjoy its floral riches before the rain and the wind defeated us. But we could appreciate how rich the flora was, as there were drifts of Naked Man and Milky Orchids (Orchis italica, Neotinea lactea), and on the rocky ledges at the base of the hill were clumps of Ariadne’s, Heldreichs, Common Cretan, Phrygana and Sicilian Ophrys (Ophrys ariadne, O. heldreichii, O. cretica, O. phrygana, O. lutea ssp. galilea, formerly O. sicula). Other orchids included Boryi’s and Fan-lipped, the tiny Four-spotted and the yellow Sparse-flowered Orchids (Anacamptis boryi, A. collina, Orchis quadripunctata, O. pauciflora). We also found some lovely clumps of Cretan Iris, Barbary Nut (Moraea sisyrinchium) and the nearby fields were dotted with scarlet Tulipa doefleri. So a bit damp and cold, we retreated back to the vehicles, made our way down from the hills and returned to Plakias via the Kotsiphos Gorge. On the banks at the top of the gorge were many spikes of the endemic Cretan Arum with its bright yellow spathe and deeper yellow spadix. Then we returned to the hotel to warm up with hot drinks and have a change of clothes, before meeting up to discuss the day’s findings.

2 © Naturetrek

Crete Tour Report

Day 3 Thursday 9th April

Festos Amari Valley and Spili It had been a stormy night with alarming gusts of wind, rain and thunder, and the forecast was not good! We changed our planned programme to take another look at Spili but, again, the weather shortened our explorations. Scouring the rocky hillside close to the actual hill added a few more orchids to our list – Ophrys cinereophila, O. villosa and O. bombyliflora (Bumblebee Orchid) and some of us had a better chance to take photos. But a fast moving cloud soon showered us with hail and, though not actually getting wet, we were soon getting cold so a tactical retreat seemed the best idea and we headed back into Spili and a welcome coffee shop, where little chocolate eggs were offered as it was Easter!

Then we continued heading east towards the archaeological site of Festos (Phaestos). East of Spili, we stopped to explore a roadside bank which was a colourful mass of white Turban Buttercups and Hairy Lupin, dotted with orchids such as Giant Orchid and Fan-lipped Orchid and various Serapias.

Then we drove across the fertile plain of Mesara, and through the busy town of Timbaki with its unattractive sprawl of glasshouses, and arrived at the ancient ridge-top site of Festos. This is one of four palaces built around 1900 BC by the Minoan civilisation on Crete, and is the second largest and most important – the largest being Knossos. There has been no large scale reconstruction here, as there has been at Knossos. Until 180BC, Festos remained an independent city and minted its own coinage. The weather here was much improved and, in the Olive orchards beyond the archaeological site, we stopped for our picnic. On the roadsides were lovely bushes of the endemic Cretan Ebony (Ebenus creticus) and, in the small terraces, we found Rosy and Black Garlic (Allium roseum, A. nigrum), the endemic Serapias orientalis subsp cretica, Ophrys cretensis and O. gortynia.

From the stunning location of the ruins, we could see the thick low cloud gathering over the snow-capped hills, so it did not seem wise to head inland for the Amari valley. Instead, we retraced our steps along the main road to Spili and then Plakias.

Day 4 Friday 10th April

Kotsiphos Gorge, Frangokastello, Imbros Gorge Again, we had another night of gusty winds and rain. This may well have been responsible for a broken window on one of our vans. So, while Nicos at Lyknos Travel sourced us a replacement vehicle, we took a blustery walk into the orchards behind Plakias. Besides the ubiquitous singing Cetti's Warblers, we disturbed a couple of Green Sandpipers from a large puddle in the track, and a Whinchat and another Woodchat Shrike were seen. Finally, as we retraced our steps, a superb Hobby flew up the valley.

With the new van, we set off for the twisting scenic road that follows the coast to Frangocastello through the hillside villages of Selia, Rodakino and Skaloti. We stopped at various points to take photos of Plakias Bay or to explore the colourful roadside banks. Stopping for a closer look at Hairy Lupin, we also found a clutch of endemics - leafy rosettes of Petromarula pinnata, a relative of campanulas, fleshy rosettes of Sedum creticum, the compact Hypericum empetrifolium subsp. oliganthum and Spiny Mullein (Verbascum spinosa), yet to produce its delicate lemon yellow flowers.

Crete Tour Report

Birds were keeping low in the strong winds but a stop to admire some Lupinus growing on the verge in a sheltered valley, provided some bird interest with a Collared Flycatcher, a Willow Warbler and a Peregrine Falcon.

As we approached Frangokastello, we saw more Woodchat Shrikes, Northern Wheatears and Whinchat. At Frangocastello, the striking 14th Century fortress overlooks a lovely sandy bay. It was built by the Venetians as a defence against pirates and the rebellious Sfakiots. It is a shell of a building now. Along the shore, at a seaside taverna, we purchased coffee and cold drinks in exchange for the use of their tables for our picnic. As we left the area, five Little Egrets flew westwards.

Then we explored the lowest part of the Imbros Gorge, looking at the chasmophytes, the plants that thrive on gorge walls where they cannot be nibbled by the many goats that roam the island. Large clumps of Caper and the endemic Wall Lettuce (Petromarula pinnata) hung off the walls. Amongst the budding bushes of Chaste Tree were a few spikes of the dramatic Dragon Arum (Dranunculus vulgaris) with its huge purple red spathe. Other plants included Nettle-leaved Figwort, Fig and Carob, Cretan Gorge Comfrey (Procopiana cretica), Cretan Ebony, the aromatic Savory and soft white spikes of Scutellaria sieberi. We also found the huge palmate leaves of Ranunculous cretica. There were more Collared and Pied Flycatchers, plus Blue Rock Thrush, Jay, Crag Martin and Black-eared Wheatears.

Day 5 Saturday 11th April

Cliff walk at Plakias, Armani, Georgiopolis and Chania Although still breezy, the forecast was for a brighter day. It was sad to leave the now picture postcard blue sea and attractive little town of Plakias, but the enthusiasm of the group was undiminished! The yellow of the roadside Phlomis, Spiny and Spanish Broom, Giant Fennel and Yellow Asphodel seemed even brighter!

The Kortiolotiki gorge was still very windy, with only distant views of Griffon Vultures high up above the gorge. So, heading onwards north towards Rethymnon, we stopped south of Armeni for a coffee where, on the tables inside, there were two jugs stuffed with bunches of orchids! They were mostly Naked Man Orchid but also two orchids we had not seen – Monkey Orchid (Orchis simia) and Bishop's Ophrys (Ophrys episcopalis). When asked where they were picked, the barman shrugged nonchalantly, suggesting they could be found anywhere in the hillsides! Our next stop was north of Armeni at the Late Minoan cemetery site. This peaceful site is canopied by Valonia Oak (Quercus macrolepsis), with its shaggy acorn cups. The galls from the trees were once an important export for the tanning industry. The vegetation around the intriguing grave sites was lush with flowers including many vetches, Common Asphodel (Asphodelus. aestivus), Barbary Nut (Moraea sisysrinchium), a group of Cyclamen creticum and orchids, including Giant Orchid, drifts of Naked Man Orchid (Orchis italica), Ophrys heldreichii, O. sicula, O. bombyliflora, Serepias lingua and S. bergonii . Many Chaffinches were in song and a Pied Flycatcher plus three Wood Warblers fed busily in the oaks.

We had our picnic at a nearby taverna, where the usual arrangement applied – we used their tables in exchange for purchase of drinks and use of facilities. As we arrived, there was a close flypast of several Griffon Vultures.

We continued north to Rethymnon, before heading west to our next stop at the reservoir at Georgiopolis, where there were Coot, Moorhen, Little Grebe, Common Swift, Little Egret and Balkan (Striped-necked) Terrapins.

4 © Naturetrek

Crete Tour Report

The highlight here, for those who saw it, was a Peregrine which swooped rapidly down and grabbed a small bird (probably a chick Coot?) from the water surface, then ate it on the wing as it flew away.

It was then on to Chania, where we stopped for a walk through the quiet and peaceful Souda Bay War Cemetery. Retracing our steps, we headed for our comfortable hotel which was once the British Consulate. After discussing the day’s sightings with a drink in the hotel garden, we walked into the old city of Chania, skirting the bustling harbour with its many busy bars and restaurants, before reaching the Semiramis, where we enjoyed a good meal from their comprehensive menu of traditional dishes.

Day 6 Sunday 12th April

Akrotiri Peninsula Today we headed for the Akrotiri peninsula. Our first stop was to explore some scrub near an Olive grove, where we found Pallenis spinosa, Silene gallica, Arabian Fumana (F. arabica) with its soft yellow flowers, Spotted Rockrose (Tuberaria guttata), Bellardia trixago, many Serapias lingua and Ophrys phryganae. A walk along a track through the Olives produced Stonechats, Woodchat Shrike, Sparrowhawk, Tree Pipits, Kestrel and Buzzard. Driving on towards Moni Agia Triada, there was a Hoopoe amongst the Olives and, at the monastery, a Collared Flycatcher on a wire fence and the first of several Wood Warblers. Across the vineyard were Kestrels, or maybe Lesser Kestrels, but the heat haze was bad. However one did fly closer and a distant photo later showed it to be a female Lesser Kestrel. In the vineyard, Whinchats plus both Northern and Black-eared Wheatear were present. Further up the road, a patch of scrub with larger trees was particularly good with Blackcaps, Sardinian Warblers, Wood Warbler and Whitethroat. The garden of the upper monastery was very good for migrants, with more Tree Pipits, flycatchers, wheatears and redstarts.

The path down to the abandoned monastery of Katholiko, at the northern tip of the peninsula, was rich in plant life. Amongst the phrygana bushes of Greek Spiny Spurge, was the white flowered Prasium and the fragrant Hairy Thorny Broom (Calicotome villosa). We found the delicate Vicia cretica, scrambling up through the scrub, the curled leaves of Moraea tripetala ( formwerly Gynadiris monophyllus), Cretan Mallow, the tiny hairy Plantago bellardii, and the corkscrew leaves of the tiny Allium circinnatum subsp. circinnatum plus, as usual, many vetches. A few Cretan Wall Lizards were warming themselves in the sunshine and a Chukar was calling. Walking back through the garden, we added to our bird list with Robin and Subalpine Warbler. We had our picnic under the trees nearby, watching a Crested Lark, and a local family cooking up their traditional Easter day joint on a spit. Retracing our steps, we stopped under the ancient Olive trees, which all seemed to have their attendant malodorous Dragon Arum (Dracunculus vulgaris). On the return, a Cuckoo was seen plus several Lesser Kestrels, two Red-footed Falcons and three Pallid Swifts in and above the vineyard.

We then returned early to the hotel so that we could explore part of the ancient city of Chania, before meeting at a restaurant in the old part of the city.

Crete Tour Report

Day 7 Monday 13th April

Agia Reservoir, Omalos Plateau We headed south-west, out of Chania, firstly stopping at Agia Reservoir. The air was fragrant with the scent of orange blossom from the nearby orchard. There were huge stands of Giant Reed (Arundo donax) and the water was edged with Common Reed. Here we watched an amenable Squacco Heron on the dam, and a Red-rumped Swallow perched in a tree above it. Two high Honey Buzzards flew over and Alpine Swifts swooped down low over the water. As we headed along the dam, five Night Herons flew along to the large trees near the outflow. Sedge, Sardinian and numerous Cetti's Warblers sang loudly. From the fine bridge over the outfall, we saw Wood and Willow Warblers, a Spotted Flycatcher and, surprisingly a Chaffinch, all fly-catching.

We then made our way up to the Omalos Plateau. We stopped for a welcome coffee and comfort stop at the tiny village of Omalos. It was a little cool and breezy to sit outside so we took our refreshments indoors under the glazed stare of a rather old scruffy stuffed Lammergeier and Golden Eagle. The taverna owner told us that, only three days earlier, there had been inches of snow on the road! So would we find any flowers?

One of the botanical highlights of the stark beauty of the Omalos in early spring is the lovely pink Tulipa bakeri but, despite masses of leaves, it was a challenge to find many flowering spikes. There were many colourful drifts of Anenome coronaria, in various shades of blue and pink, and occasionally red, and several patches of the intriguing green and brown Widow Iris (Hermadactylus tuberosus). A Cirl Bunting and Woodlarks sang and a Wryneck was seen.

Then we moved on to the head of the Samaria Gorge, where we got stunning views of the mouth of the gorge, finding many Cupressus sempervirens var. horizontalis in view. There was still snow on the road, and this seemed to have attracted lots of visitors who were building snowmen and throwing snowballs! One family were even blaring Christmas songs from their car stereo! There we searched, unfortunately unsuccessfully, for any Kri Kri, the Cretan Wild Goat, on the vast cliffs opposite. (Our only sighting was of two in a pen at the cafe, which was not the best view of a wild animal that inhabits this wild mountain area.) The area is a UNESCO Biosphere reserve for this elusive, long-time descendent from ancient Minoan feral goats.

We retreated from the tourist circus to find a quiet and sheltered spot for our picnic, keeping an eye above the snow covered mountains for Lammergeier and Golden Eagle but, sadly, today only Griffon Vultures were cruising along the tops. As we ate, we watched local people digging up 'wild greens' – these are basal rosettes of various plants including dandelion and rocket. Some of the group enjoyed eating them in the evening at the restaurant. We continued anti-clockwise around the plateau, stopping occasionally for more Widow Iris and a bank of the tiny, lily-like, yellow Gagaea peduncularis, plus Northern Wheatears, Cirl Buntings, Woodlarks and a distant Green Sandpiper on a pond. In the gorge leading down from the plateau the scenery is quite dramatic – pale grey limestone rocks studded with Cypress trees and Daphne sericea. Retracing our steps we headed back to Chania. We wanted to take another look at Agia, but it was teeming with people so we continued back to our hotel.

6 © Naturetrek

Crete Tour Report

Day 7 Tuesday 14th April

Flight home

Today we left our hotel in Chania, to head for Iraklion airport and our flight home, taking with us many memories of this beautiful island.

Receive our e-newsletter

Join the Naturetrek e-mailing list and be the first to hear about new tours, additional departures and new dates, tour reports and special offers. Visit www.naturetrek.co.uk to sign up.

Naturetrek Facebook

We are delighted to launch the Naturetrek Facebook page so that participants of Naturetrek tours can remain in touch after the holiday and share photos, comments and future travel plans.

Setting up a personal profile at www.facebook.com is quick, free and easy. The Naturetrek Facebook page is now live; do please pay us a visit!

Cretan Ophrys (endemic) Virbascum arcturus (endemic)

Crete Tour Report

Species Lists

Birds (= recorded but not counted; H = heard only) Date Common name Scientific name 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 1 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis    2 Chukar Alectoris chukar H 3 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 1 1 4 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax 6 5 Squacco Heron Aedeola ralloides 2 6 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 2 5 3 7 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea 2 8 Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus 1 9 Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus 3 4 3 8 10 1 12 10 Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciata 1 11 Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus 1 12 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo 4 1 1      13 Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus   1   14 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 1 15 Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni 6 16 Red-footed Falcon Falco vespertinus 2 17 Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo 1 18 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 1 1 1 19 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 2    20 Eurasian Coot Fulica atra    21 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus 2 1 22 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 1 1 23 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia 1 24 Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis         25 Rock Dove / Feral Pigeon Columba livia         26 Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus   1 27 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto         28 Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus 1 29 Common Swift Apus apus 2       30 Pallid Swift Apus pallidus    3   31 Alpine Swift Apus melba 2     32 Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops 1 1 1 33 Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla 1 34 Crested Lark Galerida cristata 1 1 4  35 Woodlark Lullula arborea 2 3   36 Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla 6   37 Common Sand Martin Riparia riparia     1 38 Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris    4   39 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica        40 Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica 2 2 41 Common House Martin Delichon urbicum        42 Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris 1 43 Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis 6 44 Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava flava 1   45 Black-headed Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava feldegg 1   46 European Robin Erithacus rubecula 1 47 Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos 1 2 2

8 © Naturetrek

Crete Tour Report

Date Common name Scientific name 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 48 Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus 3 49 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros 1 50 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe 1 3 1   51 Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica 2 6 1 52 Whinchat Saxicola rubetta  2 1 20  53 Common Stonechat Saxicola torquata     1   54 Common Blackbird Turdus merula         55 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius 2 4   56 Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla H H H 1 57 Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis 2 2 58 Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala  3       59 Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans     1   60 Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus 2 61 Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti H H H H H H 4 62 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus 1 2 63 Wood Warbler Phylloscopus sibilatrix 3 6 3 64 Winter Wren Troglodytes troglodytes H  2H 65 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata  1 66 Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca 1 1 1 3 67 Collared Flycatcher Ficedula albicollis 3 5 5 68 Great Tit Parus major 1 2     69 European Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus  1      70 Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator 4 6 3 71 Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius 2  1 72 Western Jackdaw Corvus monedula        73 Red -billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax 1   74 Hooded Crow Corvus cornix         75 Common Raven Corvus corax    76 European Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus 1 4 1 77 Italian sparrow Passer italiae        78 Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs        79 Common Linnet Carduelis cannabina  2 1 6  80 European Goldfinch Carduelis cardulis        81 European Greenfinch Chloris chloris 1  H 1    82 Eurpean Serin Serinus serinus      83 Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus 84 Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra  6   1 H

Mammals (D=Dead) 1 Beech Marten Martes foina D D D D D 2 Badger Meles meles D 3 Hedgehog Erinaceous sp. D D

Amphibians & Reptiles

1 Balkan (Stripe-necked) Terrapin Mauremys rivulata (was caspica)       2 Cretan (Erhard's) Wall Lizard Podarcis cretensis   1     3 Balkan Green Lizard Lacerta trilinearta 1

Butterflies 1 Cretan Festoon Zerynthia cretica 1

Crete Tour Report

Date Common name Scientific name 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 2 Small White Pieris rapae      3 Clouded Yellow Colias crocea        4 Cleopatra Gonepteryx cleopatra 1  5 Small Copper Lycaena phlaeas   1 6 Holly Blue Celastrina argiolus   1  7 Small Tortoiseshell Aglais urtica 1 8 Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta 1  9 Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria    1 2 10 Meadow Brown Maniola jurtina 2   

Other taxa 1 Egyptian Grasshopper Anacridium aegyptium 2

Plants (* = endemic to Crete) Scientific name Common name Location

PTERIDOPHYTES FERNS & ALLIES

Selaginellaceae Lesser Clubmoss family Selaginella denticulata Mediterranean Clubmoss Imbros Gorge

Equisetaceae Horsetail Family Equisetum telmaeia Giant Horsetail Agia Reservoir

Adiantaceae Maidenhair Fern Family Cheilanthes acrostica - Seen in various places including Akrotiri

Aspleniaceae Spleenwort Family Asplenium ceterach Rustyback Seen widely ?Asplenium creticum Imbros

Dennstaedtiaceae Bracken family Pteridium aquilinum Bracken Common

PINOPSIDA (GYMNOSPERMS) CONIFERS

Araucariaceae Monkey Puzzle Family Araucaria heterophylla Norfolk Island Pine Planted

Cupressaceae Juniper Family C. sempervirens forma. horizontalis Italian Cypress Samaria Gorge C. sempervirens forma. sempervirens - Widespread Juniperus oxycedrus subsp. oxycedrus Prickly Juniper Juniperus phoenicea Juniper

Pinaceae Pine Family Pinus brutea Calabrian Pine Pinus halepensis Aleppo Pine Pinus pinea Umbrella or Stone Pine

10 © Naturetrek

Crete Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

MAGNOLIOPSIDA (ANGIOSPERMS) FLOWERING PLANTS

Magnoliidae (Dicotyledons)

Aceraceae Maple Family Acer sempervirens Cretan Maple Omalos Plateau – not quite in leaf

Aizoaceae Dew Plant Family Carpobrotus acinaciformis Red Hottentot Fig Planted and naturalised

Anacardiaceae Sumach Family Pistacia lentiscus Mastic Tree Widespread Schinus molle Californian Pepper Tree Agia Reservoir - planted

Apiaceae (Umbellifers) Carrot Family Apium nodiflorum Fool's Watercress Agia Crithmum maritimum Rock Samphire Not in flower-Chania Daucus carota agg. Wild Carrot Widspread Eryngium maritimum Sea Holly Plakias Bay Eryngium campestre Field Eryngo Last years seedheads Ferula communis Giant Fennel Seen widely Foeniculum vulgare Fennel Lagoecia cuminoides Fluffy Thimbleweed Seen regularly, tiny Oenanthe globulosa Mediterranean Water Dropwort Agia Scandix pecten-veneris Shepherd’s Needles Seen widely Smyrnium olusatrum Alexanders Seen widely Smyrnium perfoliatum subsp.rotundifolium Perfoliate Alexanders Spili Tordylium apulum Tordylium Seen widely Torilis nodosa Knotted Bur-parsley

Apocynaceae Periwinkle Family Nerium oleander Oleander Planted widely Vinca major Greater Periwinkle

Araliaceae Ivy Family Hedera helix Ivy

Asteraceae (Composites) Daisy Family Achillea cretica Cretan Sneezewort Akrotiri Anthemis chia Greek Chamomile Seen widely Anthemis rigida Rayless Chamomile " Bellis sylvestris Southern Daisy Bellis perennis Daisy Calendula arvensis Field Marigold Carlina corymbosa Flat-topped Carline Thistle Last years seedheads Centaurea calcitrapa Red Star Thistle Not in flower Centaurea raphanina subsp. raphanina - Kortaliotiko Gorge, in bud Cichorium intybus Chicory Cichorum spinosum Spiny Chicory Not in flower Cynara scolymus Globe Artichoke Planted Dittrichia viscosa Stink Aster Seen widely - not in flower, pungent Filago (Evax) pygmaea Evax Galactities tomentosa Galactites Seen widely

Crete Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Glebionis coronarium Crown Daisy " Glebionis coronarium var bicolor Crown Daisy " Helichrysum stoechas Curry Plant Otanthus maritimus Cottonweed Pallenis spinosa Pallenis Seen widely Phagnalon rupestre Phagnalon Not in flower Ptilostemon chamaepeuce Shrubby Ptilostemon Plakias - not in flower Ragadiolus stellatus Star Hawkbit Scorzonera cretica Cretan Viper's-grass Seen widely Senecio vulgaris Groundsel Silybum marianum Milk Thistle Tragopogon hybridum Hybrid Goat’s-beard Small flowers Tragopogon porrifolius Salsify

Berberidaceae Barberry Family Berberis cretica Cretan Barberry Omalos – not in leaf

Bignoniaceae Jacaranda Family Jacaranda ovalifolia Jacaranda Planted

Boraginaceae Borage Family Anchusa azurea Large Blue Alkanet Anchusa undulata Wavy-leaved Anchusa Borago officinalis Borage Cerinthe major Honeywort Cynoglossum creticum Blue Hound's-tongue Echium angustifolium Narrow-leaved Bugloss Akrotiri Echium italicum Pale Bugloss Seen widely Echium plantagineum Purple Viper’s Bugloss Widespread

Brassicaceae (Crucifers) Cabbage Family Aetheonema saxatile Burnt Candytuft Kortaliotiko, Omalos Aubrieta deltoidea Aubrieta Omalos – not in flower Biscutella didyma Buckler Mustard Capsella bursa-pastoris Shepherd’s-purse Eruca sativa Garden Rocket Lunaria annua Honesty Malcolmia chia - Kortaliotiko

Campanulaceae Bellflower Family Campanula erinus Annual Bellflower Tiny plant Petromarula pinnata* Petromarula/Rock Lettuce Seen regularly, Imbros, Akrotiri

Capparaceae Caper Family Capparis spinosa Caper Plakias, Imbros

Caprifoliaceae Honeysuckle Family Lonicera etrusca Etruscan Honeysuckle Sambucus nigra Elderberry

Caryophyllaceae Pink Family Dianthus juniperinus* - Not in flower - Imbros, Kotsiphos Paronychia capitata Paronychia

12 © Naturetrek

Crete Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Petrorhagia velutina A Childing Pink Seen widely Silene colorata Mediterranean Catchfly seen widely Spergularia marina Lesser Sand-spurrey Stellaria media Chickweed

Cistaceae Rockrose Family Cistus creticus subsp. creticus Cretan Cistus Seen at roadsides Cistus monspeliensis Narrow-leaved Cistus Cistus salvifolius Sage-leaved Cistus Fumana arabica Arabian Fumana Akrotiri Fumana thymifolia Thyme-leaved Fumana " Tuberaria guttata Spotted Rock-rose "

Clusiaceae (Guttiferae) St.John's-wort Family Hypericum empetrifolium ssp oliganthum Spili Hypericum perfoliatum Perfoliate St John's-wort Hypericum perforatum Common St John's-wort

Convolvulaceae Bindweed Family Convolvulus althaeoides Mallow-leaved Bindweed Widespread Convolvulus arvensis Field Bindweed Convolvulus elegantissimus Elegant Bindweed Cuscuta epithymum Common Dodder Ipomea purpurea Common Morning Glory Timbaki

Crassulaceae Stonecrop Family Rosularia serrata - Not in flower Sedum acre Biting Stonecrop Umbilicus rupestris Wall Pennywort Akrotiri

Cucurbitaceae White Bryony Family Bryonia cretica White Bryony Ecballium elaterium Squirting Cucumber

Dipsacaceae Teasel Family Knautia integrifolia Scabious Widespread

Ericaceae Heather Family Arbutus andrachne Eastern Strawberry Tree Erica arborea Tree Heather Laki

Euphorbiaceae Spurge Family Euphorbia acanthothamnos Greek Spiny Spurge Widespread Euphorbia characias subsp. characias Large Mediterranean Spurge " Euphorbia dendroides Tree Spurge " Euphorbia exigua Dwarf Spurge Akrotiri Euphorbia helioscopia Sun Spurge Mercurialis annuus Annual Mercury Ricinus communis Castor Oil Plant Roadsides

Fabaceae (Leguminosae) Pea Family Anthyllis tetraphylla Bladder Vetch Seen widely Anthyllis vulneraria subsp. praepropera Mediterranean Kidney Vetch Deep pink

Crete Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Bituminaria bituminosa Pitch Trefoil Blue, tarry smell Calycotome villosa Hairy Thorny Broom Widespread Ceratonia siliqua Carob " Cercis siliquastrum Judus Tree Planted Ebenus creticus* Shrubby Sainfoin/Cretan Ebony Festos Genista acanthoclada Spiny Broom Akrotiri Hymenocarpus circinatus Disc Trefoil Lathyrus annuus Annual Vetchling Lathyrus aphaca Yellow Vetchling Lathyrus clymenum Crimson Pea Lathyrus hirsutus Hairy Vetchling Lathyrus setifolius Brown Vetch, Red Pea Lotus corniculatus Bird's-foot Trefoil Lotus creticus Southern Bird's-foot Trefoil Lotus tetragonolobus (was T.purpureus) Asparagus Pea Lupinus micranthus Hairy Lupin Near Spili Medicago arabica Spotted Medick Medicago arborea Tree Medick Garage near Plakias Medicago disciformis a Medick Medicago lupulina Black Medick Medicago orbicularis Disc Medick Medicago polymorpha Toothed Medick Melilotus indicus Small Melilot Onobrychis aequidentata a Sainfoin Onobrychis caput-galli Cock's-comb Sainfoin Robinia pseudoacacia False Acacia Widely planted along roadsides Spartium junceum Spanish Broom Roadsides Trifolium angustifolium Narrow-leaved Clover Trifolium arvense Hare's-foot Clover Trifolium campestre Hop Trefoil Trifolium repens White Clover Trifolium resupinatum Reversed Clover Tiny upside down flowers Trifolium scabrum Rough Clover Trifolium stellatum Starry Clover Trifolium tomentosum Woolly Trefoil Trifolium uniflorum One-flowered Clover Spili Vicia cretica Cretan Vetch Omalos, Akrotiri Vicia hybrida Hairy Yellow Vetchling Vicia lutea Yellow Vetch Vicia sativa subsp. sativa Fodder Vetch Vicia villosa Fodder Vetch

Fagaceae Beech Family Castanea sativa Sweet Chestnut Quercus coccifera subsp. calliprinos Kermes Oak Quercus ilex Holly Oak Quercus aegilops (Q.macrolepis) Valonia Oak Armeni Quercus pubescens Downy Oak "

Fumariaceae Fumitory Family Fumaria capreolata White Ramping Fumitory Fumaria officinalis Common Fumitory

14 © Naturetrek

Crete Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Gentianaceae Gentian Family Blackstonia perfoliata subsp. intermedia Yellow-wort

Geraniaceae Geranium Family Erodium cicutarium Common Stork’s-bill Erodium gruinum Long-beaked Stork's-bill Erodium malacoides Mallow-leaved Stork’s-bill Geranium dissectum Cut-leaved Crane's-bill Geranium lucidum Shining Crane’s-bill Geranium molle Dove’s-foot Crane’s-bill Geranium purpureum Little Robin Geranium robertianum Herb Robert Geranium rotundifolium Round-leaved crane's-bill

Juglandaceae Walnut Family Juglans regia Walnut Seen widely

Lamiaceae (Labiatae) Dead-nettle Family Ballota pseudodictamnus False Dittany Lamium amplexicaule Henbit Deadnettle Lavandula stoechas French Lavender Origanum vulgare Marjoram Phlomis cretica - Widespread Phlomis fruticosa Jerusalem Sage Prasium majus Prasium Rosmarinus officinalis Rosemary Salvia triloba Three-leaved Sage Pink-flowered Salvia verbenaca Wild Clary Salvia viridis Red-topped Sage Tiny plant - Akrotiri Satureja hortensis Summer Savory Satureja spinosa* Spiny Savory Satureja thymbra Savory Plakias - on our cheeses! Scutellaria seiberi Imbros - soft white spike Sideritis romana - Tiny white flowers Stachys cretica Mediterranean Woundwort

Linaceae Flax Family Linum arboreum Tree Flax Kotsiphos, Imbros Linum bienne Biennial Flax Widespread Linum strictum Upright Yellow Flax Tiny spike

Malvaceae Mallow Family Lavatera arborea Tree Mallow Lavatera cretica Cretan Holyhock Malva cretica Cretan Mallow Malva neglecta Dwarf Mallow Malva parviflora Small-flowered Mallow Malva sylvestris Common Mallow

Moraceae Mulberry Family Ficus carica Fig Planted Ficus elastica Rubber Plant " Morus alba White Mulberry "

Crete Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Myoporaceae Myoporum Family Myoporum laetium Ngaio Planted

Oleaceae Olive & Ash Family Olea europaea Olive Widespread - both planted and wild Phillyrea media Mock Privet

Orobanchaceae Broomrape Family Orobanche crenata - Akrotiri Orobanche pubescens Lesser Broomrape Orobanche ramosa Branched Broomrape Seen regularly

Oxalidaceae Wood-sorrel Family Oxalis pres-caprae Bermuda Buttercup Pernocious weed!

Papaveraceae Poppy Family Glaucium flavum Yellow Horned Poppy Papaver dubium subsp. dubium Long-headed Poppy Papaver purpureomarginatum - Tiny, delicate flower Papaver rhoeas Common Poppy

Plantaginaceae Plantain Family Plantago afra Branched Plantain Common Plantago bellardia Hairy Plantain Plantago coronopus Stag’s-horn Plantain Plantago cretica a Plantain Plantago lagopus Hare’s-tail Plantain Plantago lanceolata Ribwort Plantain Plantago major Greater Plantain

Platanaceae Plane Tree Family Platanus orientalis Oriental plane Widely planted

Polygalaceae Milk-wort Family Polygala myrtifolia Sweet Pea Bush Widely planted Polygala venulosa Eastern Milk-wort Spili

Polygonaceae Dock Family Rumex bucephalophorus Horned Dock Rumex conglomeratus Clustered Dock

Primulaceae Primrose Family Anagallis arvensis subsp. arvensis Scarlet Pimpnel Anagallis arvensis subsp. foemina Blue Pimpernel Cyclemen creticum* Cretan Sowbread Armeni, Omalos

Ranunculaceae Buttercup Family Anemone coronaria Crown Anomone Omalos Anemone hortensis subsp. heldreichii An Anemone Seen regularly Ranunculus arvensis Corn Buttercup Ranunculus asiaticus Turban Buttercup Mostly white Ranunculus ficaria subsp. ficariformis Lesser celandine

Crete Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Resedaceae Mignonette Family Reseda alba White Mignonette Reseda lutea Mignonette

Rosaceae Rose Family Crataegus monogyna subsp. azarella a Hawthorn Eriobotrya japonica Japanese Loquat Planted Prunus dulcis Almond Pyrus amygdaliformis Almond-leaved Pear OMALOS Rosa canina agg. Dog Rose Rubus ulmifolius a Bramble Sanguisorba minor agg. Salad Burnet Sarcopoterium spinosum Thorny Burnet Widespread

Rubiaceae Bedstraw Family Galium aparine Cleavers Rubia peregrina Madder Sheradia arvensis Field Madder Tiny lilac flowers

Rutaceae Rue Family Citrus limon Lemon Planted Citrus sinensis Orange " Ruta chalpensis Fringed Rue

Santalaceae Sandalwood Family Osyris alba Osyris

Scrophulariaceae Figwort Family Bellardia trixago Bellardia Cymbalaria muralis Ivy-leaved Toadflax Linaria pelisseriana Jersey Toadflax Delicate purple flower Parentucellia latifolia Southern Red Bartsia Small red flower Parentucellia viscosa Yellow Bartsia Scrophularia lucida Shining Figwort Imbros Scrophularia peregrina Nettle-leaved Figwort 2 Verbascum arcturus* Shrubby Mullein Plakias, Kotsiphos, Imbros Verbascum macrurum a Mullein Widely seen Verbascum sinuatum Wavy-leaved Mullien Leaves only Verbascum spinosum* Spiny Mullein " Veronica cymbalaria White Speedwell Veronica persica Common Field Speedwell

Simaroubaceae Tree of Heaven Family Ailanthus altissima Tree of Heaven Chania/Knossos

Solanaceae Nightshade Family Hyoscyamus albus White Henbane Frangocastello Mandragora autumnalis Mandrake " Nicotiana glauca Shrub Tobacco Widely planted - roadsides

Styracaceae Storax Family Styrax officinalis Storax Turkish Bridge

Crete Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Tamaricaceae Tamarisk Family Tamariix parviflora Small-flowered Tamarisk Widely planted

Thymelaeaceae Daphne Family Daphne sericea - Omalos

Ulmaceae Elm Family Zelkova abelicea* Zelkova Omalos, not in leaf

Urticaceae Nettle Family Parietaria cretica Cretan Pellitory Parietaria judacea Pellitory of the Wall Urtica pilulifera Roman Nettle

Valerianaceae Valerian Family Centranthus calcitrapa Annual Valerian Centranthus ruber Red Valerian Valeriana asarifolia* Cretan Valerian Spili, Kotsiphos

Vitaceae Vine Family Vitis vinifera Vine Widely planted

Liliidae (Monocotyledons)

Agavaceae Agave family Agave americana Agave or Century Plant Planted

Araceae Arum Family Arisarum vulgare Friar's Cowl Spili, Plakias Arum concinnatum - Seen widely Arum creticum Cretan Arum Kanevos Dracunculus vulgaris Dragon Arum Akrotiri

Arecaceae Palm Family Phoenix canariensis Phoenix Palm Planted Phoenix dactylifera Date Palm

Cyperaceae Sedge Family Carex otrubae False Fox Sedge Carex pendula Pendulous Sedge Agia

Iridaceae Iris Family Gladiolus italicus Italian Gladiolus Seen widely Hermodactylus tuberosus Snake's-head Iris Omalos Iris cretensis Cretan Iris Spili Moraea (Gynandriris) sisyrinchium Barbary Nut Spili Moraea triphylla (G. monophyllus) - Akrotiri, not in flower

Juncaceae Rush Family Juncus acutus Sharp Rush Juncus bufonius Toad rush

Crete Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Liliaceae Lily Family Allium nigrum Black Garlic Faestos Allium roseum Rosy Garlic Allium subhirsutum Hairy Garlic Asparagus aphyllus Wild Asparagus Asphodeline lutea Yellow Asphodel Asphodelus aestivus Common Asphodel Asphodelus ramosus - Akrotiri Gagea graeca Greek Lloydia Widespread - tiny Gagea peduncularis a Yellow Star of Bethlehem Omalos Muscari comosum Tassel Hyacinth Widespread Pancratium maritimum Sea Daffodil Leaves only Ruscus aculeatus Butcher’s-broom Smilax aspera Smilax Tulipa bakeri* - Omalos, masses in bud! Tulipa cretica* Cretan Tulip Spili Tulipa doefleri* Red Tulip Spili – only a few Urginea maritima Sea Squill Leaves only -Plakias

Orchidaceae Orchid Family Anacamptis (Orchis) boryi Boryri's Orchid Spili, Armeni Anacamptis (Orchis) collina Fan-lipped Orchid Spili Anacamptis (Orchis) laxiflora Jersey/Loose-flowered Orchid Armeni A. (O.) papillionacea var heroica Pink Butterfly Orchid South of Armeni, past it's best Anacamptis pyramidalis Pyramidal Orchid Himantoglossum robertianum Giant Orchid South of Spili Neotinea (Orchis) lactea Milky Orchid Spili Ophrys creberrima Spili Ophrys phryganae Phrygana Ophrys Spili Ophrys lutea ssp. galilaea (was O. sicula) Sicilian Ophrys Spili Ophrys leochroma - Moni Prevelli, Spili Ophrys villosa Spili Ophrys bombyliflora Bumblebee Ophrys Spili, Armeni Ophrys episcopalis Bishop's Ophrys In bunch of flowers on a bar! Ophrys heldreichii* Heldreich's Ophrys Seen regularly Ophrys cretica Common Cretan Ophrys Akrotiri Ophrys gortynia Gorty's Ophrys Gerapotamos, Plakias Ophrys cretensis Faestos Orchis anthropophora Man Orchid Spili Orchis italica Naked Man Orchid Widely seen Orchis pauciflora Sparse-flowered Orchid Spili, Yellow Orchis quadripunctata Four-spotted Orchid Spili Orchis simia Monkey Orchid In bunch of flowers on a bar! Serapias bergonii Bergon's Serapias " Serapias cordigera ssp cretica* Heart-shaped Serapias Faestos Serapias lingua Tongue Orchid Armeni – ‘Coffee bean' in throat

Poaceae Grass Family Arundo donax Giant Reed Seen widely Briza maxima Great Quaking-grass Briza media Quaking Grass Cynodon dactylon Bermuda Grass Cynosurus echinatus Rough Dog’s-tail

Crete Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Hordium murinum Wall Barley Lagurus ovatus Hare's-tail Grass Lolium perenne Perennial Rye-grass Phragmites australis Common Reed Agia Poa annua Annual Meadow-grass Stipa capensis Mediterranean Needle Grass Vulpia bromoides Squirrel-tailed Fescue

Posidoniacae Posidonia Family Posidonia oceanica Posidonia Debris on the beach

Typhaceae Reedmace Family Typha angustifolia Lesser Reedmace Agia

Planted Species

Bougainvillea glabra Bougainvillea Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Hibiscus Melia azedarach Persian Lilac Musa cavandishii Banana Pittosporum trobira Pittosporum Wisteria sinensis Wisteria

Late snow at the Samaria Gorge