$2 Keys Sea Heritage Journal

VOL. 16 NO. 4 SUMMER 2006 USS SHARK

OFFICIAL QUARTERLY PUBLICATION OF THE MARITIME HISTORICAL SOCIETY Labor Day: Night Of Harrow Mozelle Williams’ Handwritten Account of the

Commentary and Transcription By Thomas Neil Knowles Copyright 2006 On the evening of September 2, 1935, the first Category V hurricane to make in the cut a swath of death and destruction across the . The center crossed the Florida East Coast Railway track at Craig with maximum winds estimated by the Weather Bureau at over 200 mph. According to the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, the water surged across the low-lying islands from to the south end of reaching a maximum height of 18 feet above mean sea level. The hurricane originated east of and had been tracked for several On where days by the Weather Bureau’s hurricane center in Jacksonville, Florida. A compact the most powerful part of the storm weather system that was difficult to precisely locate with the technology available came ashore, two families had taken in 1935, the of the hurricane had been projected to pass south of Key West, but shelter inside a heavily braced instead passed over Craig near the middle of the Florida Keys. Photo credit: the storm house. When that began to Author come apart, the four adults and five girls (9 & 8 years old) and a boy (18 raised in the Keys, Eddie had a boat children tried to jam themselves months). They had recently moved that he used for commercial fishing into an automobile wedged between into a house that Eddie had built on and to take tourists charter fishing. two trees. For Mozelle Law the railroad fill at Whale Harbor In addition to carpentry skills, he Williams, her brother, their spouses, between Upper Matecumbe Key had a good mind for mechanical and their children, it truly was a and . things and worked on cars and night of torment. Eddie & Mozelle struggled to engines. Mozelle was an excellent Mozelle and Edwin Morris make ends meet, as did many people cook and during the winter season Williams had been married for 10 living on the Keys during the Great years and had three children: two Depression. Born in Key West and (Continued on page10) SOCIETY NEWS AND NOTES By Tom Hambright

The Florida Keys Sea Heritage Journal is published quarterly. Subscription is available through membership. Copyright 2006 by the Key West Maritime Historical Society of the Florida Keys, Inc. The art on the masthead, the USS Shark, was drawn by Bill Muir.

Editor: Lynda Hambright Production:Tom Hambright

Letters and articles are welcome. Please write to: Editor, Florida Keys Sea Heritage Journal, KWMHS, P.O. As a student of history for over From 1948 to 1958 he served on the Box 695, Key West, FL 33041. sixty years I have often seen how Monroe County Commission. He one man can do many things in then served as Monroe County Tax Key West Maritime one lifetime. I was reminded of this Assessor (today Property Appraiser) Historical Society again this week, working with “The until 1972. From 1976 to 1986 he Board of Directors Key Outpost” which the Friends served as State Representative for of the Library gave the Florida Monroe County. He was also on President: Edward J.Little,Jr. Vice President: Winifred Fryzel Room funds to microfilm. This was the board of the First State Bank Secretary: Corey Malcom the weekly paper of the Key West and founder of Holy Innocents Treasurer: Lynda Hambright Naval Base from 1943 to 1973. Episcopal Church, which merged What started me thinking was the with St. Paul’s. He worked to Shauna Cameron photograph of the associate editor preserve the East and West Martello Andrea Comstock Joe B. Allen Jr. on the front page. Tower, was a founder of the Key Tom Hambright Mary Haffenreffer Joe Allen was born in Key West West Art and Historical Society and John Jones and began his career as delivery boy a supporter of this Society. The West Sheri Lohr for “The Key West Citizen.” During Martello was renamed for him. Don Lowe World War II he joined the Navy He and wife Marjorie were the T.J. McDermott and was stationed in his hometown. parents of four sons. After a full life Julie McEnroe After the war he started a weekly Joe died in Key West in February John Viele newspaper and a career in politics. 2006 at the age of 90. New Members Frans H. Botes, Key West; Cricket Mohawk Memorial Museum, Key Desmarais, Key West; USS West.

2 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - SUMMER 2006 Surveying the Keys in the 1850’S

U.S. Schooner Gerdes 50 tons. Photo credit: the Author.

by John Viele a graduate of West Point, grandson leader. Initially, the party consisted Almost thirty years after Florida of Benjamin Franklin, and a top- of nine men in addition to Gerdes. became U.S. territory, there were no notch scientist was appointed There was a rated heliotroper American charts of the Florida Keys Superintendent of the Coast (a surveyor qualified to use a and the . Navigators Survey. An excellent administrator, heliotrope, an instrument used for had to use old Spanish and British he formed good working relations making long distance observations charts which contained many errors with other government agencies and by means of the sun’s rays reflected and omissions. Lack of accurate branches, particularly the Army and from a mirror). Other members charts contributed significantly to the Navy. Many of the surveyors were a sailing master, a mate, four the growing incidence of shipwrecks were military officers assigned to seamen, a cook, and a cook-steward. along the reef. By 1850, ships work with the Coast Survey. On deck, or towed astern, there were piling up on the reef at the In 1848, recognizing the urgent were an 18-foot surf boat, a 19-foot rate of almost one a week. Marine need for accurate charts of the Keys, longboat, and a 12- foot dinghy. insurers and shipping companies Bache appointed a survey party to Surveying equipment included a pleaded with the government to undertake the work. He designated heliotrope, a prismatic azimuth erect lighthouses along the reef and Francis H. Gerdes, Assistant U.S. compass with tripod, a small develop accurate charts of the keys Coast Survey, to take charge of the azimuth compass, four telescopes, and the reef. survey. Gerdes was a hard-working, a theodolite, sextant, chain and The government agency meticulous leader with extensive pins (for measuring distances on responsible for producing charts of experience surveying other sections the ground), spirit levels, plumbs, the American coast was the U.S. of the coast The party embarked drawing instruments, etc. For Coast Survey established in 1807. at Pensacola on a 50-ton schooner In 1843, Alexander Dallas Bache, renamed Gerdes in honor of their (Continued on page 4)

SUMMER 2006 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 3 (Surveying from page 3) is a very handsome and suitable present-day Marathon) he reported structure and seems to be kept in that there was “a considerable detached parties, there were two excellent order.” settlement of 20 houses in a line tents, cooking utensils, and sky On January 12, Gerdes wrote a on the beach” seven miles from the rockets for signaling. note to be sent to headquarters by west end of the island. This was the The first step was to conduct a the next steamer saying,” If ever I largest settlement in the Keys outside reconnaissance of the Keys and the was in a box, I am here so – nothing of Key West. He also wrote that reef with the aid of a local pilot. for the love of money to eat or there were “settlements of one or a The Collector of Customs in Key drink, hard work every day, wind few families on the second easterly West recommended Captain Philip and storm continually, and wrecks Key of Boca Grande (actually Boca Sawyer saying, “ he knows more of all around.” Chica), on Big Pine Island which the islands than perhaps any other Finally, on January 17, the is now called West Summerlands man on the coast, having cruised schooner got underway and sailed Kay, further on Happy Jack’s point among them for the last twenty out to Sand Key. Gerdes noted that or Kay, and on East Summerlands years.” The Gerdes arrived at Key the lighthouse was gone, destroyed Kay.” These names are confusing. West on January 8, 1849, but the by the hurricane of 1846, and a 60- Part of the confusion stems from party was prevented from beginning foot high beacon erected in its place an original understanding that survey work by bad weather which had also disappeared. A lightship the three small keys immediately continued on and off for the next two was anchored nearby. Two days west of Bahia Honda were the weeks. While waiting for favorable later, with the weather still rough, Summerland Keys. This is why winds, Gerdes toured the island of the Gerdes beat up Hawk Channel the westernmost of the three got Key West. In his journal he wrote: and anchored off the Pine Islands the name West “ The appearance of this island (Sugarloaf to Big Pine Key). even though it is east of today’s town is rather thriving, there being Gerdes wrote to the Assistant to Summerland Key. Based on later considerable shipping, very good the Superintendent of the Coast charts and surveyors’ reports, wharves, long and wide streets, Survey, “Well, I am here among the it appears that the settlements and some handsome buildings. The wreckers and pirates of Key West. referred to were on , new fort protecting the harbor is in If I can join these islands into a Big Pine Key, , and progress and will be an imposing triangulation it will be a fine thing Summerland Key. At Indian Key, work. The number of inhabitants is – so far I have had no difficulties Gerdes observed that there were about 3,500. except bad navigation and constant “six or seven buildings planted The soil is dry and full of lime gales.” The Gerdes returned to Key around with cocoanut trees.” The rock, intermixed with pieces of West to wait for better weather. island was entirely cleared and the coral species, not much sand, Finally on January 26, the survey there was a wharf extending into the earth of a dark blue color. The schooner got underway again and two fathoms (12 feet) of water. This whole island so far as I have seen sailed east along the lower Keys. was the island, Gerdes noted, that is covered, and very thickly too, The purpose of the the Seminole Indians attacked and with brush intermingled with single reconnaissance was to familiarize burned during the Second Seminole trees. I am too unacquainted as yet the survey party with the Keys, War. Continuing up the Keys past to know the different species; some to identify them with the names the Matecumbes, Windley Key, are very peculiar and beautiful. The currently in use, to do preliminary , and Key Largo, bushes are up to 20 feet high, The triangulation to fix their positions, Gerdes did not find any more shore towards the reef is rocky; in and to select a place to establish a settlements, with the exception some places large beds run up to base line for the triangulation. of an abandoned plantation and a the beach; the latter is covered with As the schooner sailed along single empty house on Key Largo conchs, shells of every description, the Keys, Gerdes noted that it was opposite Rodriguez Key. thousands of coral pieces, large no longer possible to obtain fresh On January 30, the schooner sponges and plants (submarine), water by digging a hole in the sand reached . In one of the which have grown on rocks, the foot at Bahia Honda. “. . .the hurricane small boats, Gerdes explored the of the same indicating still the spot of 1846 made the water everywhere River up to the . on which they grew. The lighthouse brackish.” Off Key Vacas (site of He then anchored off Key Biscayne

4 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - SUMMER 2006 Key Vacas in 1849 showing location of settlement at eastern end. Drawn by F. H. Gerdes, Assistant U.S. Coast Survey. Photo credit: the Author. and went ashore to select a location The triangle network from Key raise pineapples – also some land at for the base line. Biscayne to Key West consisted the upper part, on both sides, good The method used to fix the positions of more than sixty triangles. timber such as Dogwood, Madeira of the keys, the coast line, and the reef In November, Gerdes began a wood [mahogany], and Yellow was called triangulation. A base line Second Reconnaissance from the wood.” between 3 and 4 miles in length was Gulf side of the keys. In January, Plantation Key: “Island below established and its length measured he became ill, went to Pascagoula Cayo Largo now called on the chart with precise accuracy. The exact to recover, and returned to the Long Island, is called Plantation latitude and longitude of the base at Keys in April. In the meantime, Island for the fact of there formerly one end of the line was determined three more survey parties had having been a plantation belonging by star sights and lunar observations. been formed and sent to continue to English wreckers from Abaco A marker was erected some distance the work which now included Island.” away at approximately right angles topographic surveys for the Land Tavernier Key and Rodriguez to the base line. The angles between Office. Key: “This island, [Tavernier] as the base line and the line of sight from In his journal, Gerdes listed well as Rodriquez Key affords a each base to the marker were measured the Keys with their then current tolerable harbor and good anchor with the theodolite. Knowing the names, some brief descriptions, ground; they are stations for length of one side and the two angles, and occasionally, the origin of the wreckers.” the length of the other two sides and name. Most of these names are the : “This island, the angle between them could be same today. Here are some of his formerly [a] saltworks, but they computed. Using beacons planted on comments of particular interest: were transferred lately to Key West, the keys and along the reef, a series Key Largo: “ the island owned by Mr. Howe, who is the of triangles were constructed which contains very good land of a black fixed the position of each beacon. and yellowish hue, said to be fit to (Continued on page 6)

SUMMER 2006 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 5 (Surveying from page 5) than $1,000. Gerdes decided to boats can not be got through them.” possessor of this Key.” hire day laborers and oversee the Sub Assistant John Rockwell Summerlands Key: “good work himself. He carried fourteen wrote: “ The keys present many land, some timber, settled by two men back to Key Biscayne and in obstacles and few facilities for families.” a month, they had cleared a ten- the prosecution of the survey. The Sally Bunces: “two small islands foot wide path through the woods. shoalness of the water between designated by Blunt as the Saddle A thirty-six foot screw pile with them prevents access with the Bluffs, each 1 1⁄2 miles by 1⁄2 mile, red and white painted barrel at its vessel, oftentimes within 5, 6, rather high land.” [Known as part of top, was sunk in the ground at the or 8 miles from the points where the Saddle Bunch Keys today.] northern end of the line. Surveyors the work may happen to be in : “This island is carefully measured the length of the progress, and an approach with probably the second of all the keys line using the calibrated chains. The boats is dependent on wind and tide in importance on account of the result was 5,800 meters. As it turned and in many cases difficult. The excellent harbor to the W of it. . . . out, this was a preliminary base line, mangrove swamps which abound The harbor is so good that this island and the area along the line had to be on the keys are among the most ought to be reserved from Public re-cleared and re-measured four formidable difficulties. Tall signals sale for Government purposes and years later. become necessary in order to be improvements. Into the harbor, 24 Gerdes described the hardships visible above the trees, and lines to 27 feet can be brought, and an of living and conducting a survey in have not infrequently to be opened excellent anchorage, perfectly safe the Keys in a letter to Bache: “On through swamps. This is a slow, and roomy may be obtained in the 750 islands on the reef there is laborious, and expensive operation. 20 feet. Such a thing is rare in the hardly any spot where it is possible The swamps are overflowed at Keys; and a lighthouse on the W to pitch a tent. . . . there is no water high tide, and the mud, water, point of the island, and this harbor anywhere to be obtained. Provisions and mosquitoes that abound in would be perfect.” (save fish in the Gulf) are out of the them are beyond description, and Summerlands Keys: “The three question, and as before mentioned, these, with the intense heat of the small islands next to W from Bahia hardly any other way of existence climate, render the work of cutting Honda are called Summerlands other than living on board a vessel almost impossible. The labor of Islands or Kays.” – no communication with persons opening lines and dragging boats Boca Chica: “Called by Blunt or even mails, but by Key West and over shoals has proved to be very Samba Island, but not known here a trip there can not be made under severe upon the crew of the vessel. as such. . . . The islands are divided any circumstances under an average The only locality where provisions by the so called Pilot-creek. . . .” of ten days, and is therefore once a and good water can be obtained is at Under his notes on the General month out of question. – Besides Key West, and no small amount of Florida Reef, Gerdes wrote, “The the navigation is [to] say the least time is lost running to that port for Coffins Patches are called Collins very dangerous – for all those and supplies” Patches after the captain of a vessel for numerous other reasons, an As if the natural obstacles in the who was wrecked there (there is Assistant who you order to this Keys were not enough, in 1856, only 5 feet of water on it).” Section must come with the full the outbreak of the Third Seminole In early 1851, Gerdes sailed back knowledge of the great importance War posed new dangers for the to Key Biscayne. He decided to of this survey and must be ready to surveyors. Sub Assistant Dorr wrote move the marker at the north end of sacrifice advantages which he finds Bache, “Sir, In compliance with the baseline a short distance to the in other sections and devote himself your instructions of November 19, northwest. The line would then run with personal interest to the work.” 1856, I proceeded to Key West, over land the whole distance instead Sub Assistant Wainwright wrote: but was unable to engage a pilot to of partly over water. He returned to “ The difficulties presented in its accompany me to , such Key West to find someone who execution [topographical survey] was the general terror of Indians.” would accept a contract to clear are almost insuperable. Operations The Secretary of the Treasury in the baseline of trees and bushes. on foot are in many places February1857 warned Bache, “. . . . Because business was booming, impossible and in others, the water but from the character of the Indians no firm was interested for less is so shallow for miles in coves that and from the fact that they are likely

6 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - SUMMER 2006 Portion of the preliminary triangulation of the Keys 1849 - 1850. Photo credit: the Author. to approach the coast for supplies, above the cylinders were six-foot four or five vessels from going it is considered that the continuance square vanes, free to rotate with the ashore there.” In his journal, Gerdes of the Coast Survey parties near wind with a letter of the alphabet wrote: “It is said openly in Key Cape Sable may be attended with inset to identify the location. West that more than five shipwrecks danger.” And on May 4 1857, Sub The captain of the steamer Isabel were prevented by the timely sight Assistant Wainright reported to who passed the reef four times a of these beacons. My pilot, Captain Bache “. . . .the Indian hostilities month, “has in a very candid and Sawyer, a very respectable citizen of having increased, it was deemed gentlemanly manner acknowledged Key West [and a wrecker himself] imprudent to expose the party [on the aid these signals are to hm.” was informed so personally by Key Largo], which was without any When Gerdes was in Key West in the Captain of the Wreckers, who means of defence.” December 1849, an agent of an mentioned chiefly the signal at Lieutenant James Totten, U.S. insurance company told him that if Sombrero as destructive of their Army and Assistant in the Coast he had erected a beacon on Pelican business.” Survey, was in charge of placing Shoal last year, it would have saved Gerdes took a somewhat dim signals, called screw piles, to mark the large barque from view of the wreckers although the dangerous portions of the reef. becoming a total loss and that, just a he acknowledged that they did The original signals consisted of a few days ago, a captain said he got perform a useful service in saving hollow iron screw sunk in the coral a glimpse of the signal at Sambo lives and property. In his journal, with a 30 to 40 foot high mangrove which caused him to bring his ship he commented: “In the forenoon pole inserted in it. A barrel was fixed about and avoid striking the reef. [shortly after arriving in Key to the top of the pole and painted But not everyone was happy West], a rumor got afloat that a black. In 1853, based on Totten’s with the signals on the reef. Captain ship was wrecked on the reef near recommendation, the mangrove Philip Sawyer, the pilot, told Sand Key and in fifteen minutes poles were replaced with iron poles. Gerdes,” . . . . “the wreckers on afterwards, five or six vessels under The barrels were replaced with Key Vacas Station had grumbled the denomination of wreckers, lattice-work cylinders made of hoop very much about the tripod on the stood under full sail, spite of the iron, six feet in length and two and Sombrero, and positively asserted (Contined on page 8) one-half feet in diameter. Mounted that the beacon alone had prevented

SUMMER 2006 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 7 Proposed site for a baseline on Key Biscayne in 1849. Photo credit: the Author.

In a letter to Bache, Gerdes (Surveying from page 7) get on the reef, three-fourths of wrote, “With the most intelligent them are purposely lost afterwards, portion of Key West population for the reason that they never can heavy norther, every one vying to with whom I have become recover their standing after having be the first to reap the profits. How acquainted, I have found great been aground – which they had much more admirable would such sympathy – every honest man is previously. At present there is a promptness appear, did we know convinced that a thorough survey ship on the Tortugas, new and fine; that it was offered more for relief of is the first step to ameliorate the she got aground and everything, the poor sufferers in the wreck than almost daily occurrence of wrecks spars and all, was taken out of her, for gain – gain from the misfortunes and consequently to break up the but the agent of the underwriters of others; still even so, as it is, whole regular wrecking system. in went down himself, it appears to me a blessing, as at You have no idea how these people tried to raise her and succeeded, least the lives of the unfortunate (a certain class called wreckers) but when she hove up, there were mariners are generally safe, and mount at daybreak the lookouts, fourteen augur holes discovered the system, though connected with and if a sail is in the neighborhood in her bottom. She certainly got evils, has some good side. Why is of danger, how the vessels run out in aground by accident, but probably no cutter [revenue cutter] stationed storms and gales – such energy, how it was considered that after she got here? This, I think, would be the admirable it would be were it alone off, she would always be considered place of all places. The coast survey for charity and humanity, but alas! as an injured and damaged vessel, must ameliorate this system; our gain – gain! By the misfortunes of and it was perhaps thought more charts will be better guides than others is the sole impulse and all advantageous to let her be lost and the present ones, and a series of other feelings are strange to them.” receive full insurance for her.” Lighthouses along this reef will In another letter, he wrote, “It The letters and journals of enable the navigator better to avoid is generally understood that even the surveyors also give us an its dangerous proximity. of the vessels which accidentally understanding of how sparsely

8 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - SUMMER 2006 settled the rural Keys were in the in length, tipped with agate at each number by shewing [sic] the rogues 1850s. In 1849-1850, surveyors end to avoid wear. Periodically, just where they should make for the reported settlements of “one or a the tubes were checked against shore.” few families” on Boca Chica (Henry a standard tube kept in a padded The report of the Superintendent Geiger on Geiger Key), Sugarloaf box. When the baseline had been of the Coast Survey for 1857 stated Key (Happy Jack’s plantation), cleared to a width of sixteen feet, “The triangulation of the Florida Summerland Key (two families), the measurement process began. Reefs and Keys has been rendered West Summerland Key, Key Vacas The tubes, mounted on trestles, continuous this season from (twenty houses along the beach at were moved along the baseline Key to the Marquesas. . . . Two more the western end), Indian Key (six by a team of thirteen men. The seasons will close the topography or seven houses), and an abandoned last tube in line would be moved of the Keys. Two or three seasons plantation and empty house on Key forward very carefully and butted of continuous effort will complete Largo. In 1854, a surveyor reported against the leading tube. Surveyors the hydrography of this, the most a single house and small plantation checked the positions of the dangerous part of the coast” on , and another tubes with levels and recorded surveyor wrote “just before I left temperatures at each movement. SOURCES: Spanish Key [Bahia Honda], a man The measurement, completed on Gerdes, Francis H., Assistant, had established himself there and April 18, showed that the baseline U. S. Coast Survey. “Sec. VI, U.S. seemed to be satisfied he could was 3.597 miles in length. Later, Lt. Coast and Geodetic Survey, A.D. obtain a comfortable subsistence Totten re-measured the angles from Bache, Supt.: An Interesting Journal from the soil” Another report in 1855 the new baseline to the marker on by F. H. Gerdes on Florida Reefs, noted a settlement on the eastern the mainland shore. The party then 1848-9, Reconnaissance in Sec. point of Lower Matecumbe “where moved to Cape Sable to clear and VI.” Record Group 23, National good water may be procured.” measure a baseline there. Archives. A rough estimate indicates that Surveyors did not complete Gerdes,”Second Season – Vol. there were less than 100 pioneers their work until just before the III, Third Season, Journal and notes living on the Keys outside of Key start of the Civil War. But as the relative to the Reconnaissance and West in the 1850s. They were work progressed, the Coast Survey Measurement of a base line in Sect growing sweet potatoes, pineapples, issued preliminary charts of the VI of the U.S. Coast Survey.” tamarind trees, lemons, oranges, Keys and the reef. At the same Reports of the Superintendent of and pomegranates. One of the time, contractors erected three new the U.S. Coast Survey,1849, 1850, settlers on Boca Chica was growing lighthouses on the reef: Carysfort 1851, 1852, 1853, 1854, 1855, 1856, Manila hemp, to be used in making Reef (1852), Sand Key (replacing 1857, 1858, 1859. Record Group 23, rope. What they did not need for the lightship, 1853), and Sombrero National Archives. themselves, they sold at the market Key (1858). Despite the new lights Letters from Coast Survey in Key West. and the more accurate charts, Assistants to Superintendent of U.S. For some reason, final the number of wrecks did not Coast Survey relative to survey in measurement of the Key Biscayne significantly decrease. Part of this Sect. VI. Record Group 23, National baseline was not accomplished until was considered due to the increase Archives 1855. A large party assembled there in the number of ships passing in March and work began to clear along the reef. Another reason John Viele has been a member the baseline which was completely was expressed by the commanding of the Board of Directors of the Key overgrown. Superintendent Bache officer of the USS Pensacola, West Maritime Historical Society decided to supervise this vital during a stopover in Key West. In of the Florida Keys for the past 20 measurement personally. With his his opinion, “The recent accurate years. He is the author of three books wife, he arrived by steamer on April surveys of the Florida Reefs by the on the history of the Keys published 2 and went ashore to a camp set up Government of the U. States are not by Pineapple Press of Sarasota: on the island. There were now five thought to diminish the number of “The Florida Keys – A History of vessels, forty men, and one woman wrecks as was apprehended at first, the Pioneers,” “The Florida Keys, assembled at Key Biscayne. Instead and, if the majority of the wrecks Vol. 2 – True Stories of the Perilous of chain, the measuring equipment are intentional, the most accurate Straits,” and “The Florida Keys, consisted of metal tubes, six meters charts would only increase the Vol.3 –The Wreckers.”

SUMMER 2006 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 9 (Night from page 1)

ran the kitchen at the Caribee Colony, a tourist camp at the west end of Upper Matecumbe. When other work was slow, Eddie helped Mozelle in the kitchen and did maintenance at the tourist camp. As hard as they worked, they were still only able to scrape by. They didn’t have the money to go on trips to the mainland. Once in a while some of their relatives would come down to the Keys and bring oranges and other treats. These were especially enjoyable occasions for the Williams children when their cousins came to visit. The week before Labor Day, Mozelle’s brother, Dan Law, and his wife and two children (a boy 11 years old and a girl age 6) had come down from Tampa. The small cottage perched alongside the railroad track on the narrow marl fill was as full of people as it was good times. Monday, September 2nd was the last day of summer vacation; the public schools were scheduled to open the next day. The morning began much like the previous days with bright sunshine, but by mid morning clouds began to gather. What happened next is described by Mozelle in a narrative written a week later. Eddie Williams holds his first-born daughter, Elizabeth, in 1926. Photo credit: She and the five children had Williams Family Collection. just been evacuated from the that Mozelle put her experiences little the family owned was gone. devastated Florida Keys. Because down on paper. Valiantly, the 30 year-old woman the bridges and fills between some With only a sixth grade education, picked up a pen and, struggling of the islands had been washed writing was difficult for Mozelle to find the right words, began away, they had been stranded for under the best of circumstances, but to write. For five handwritten three days among the wreckage she was still recovering from the pages Mozelle Williams relived and bodies before being reached effects of exposure to rain, wind, the nightmare so that her children by rescue workers and taken by and then a blistering hot sun without would have a record of what the seaplane to Coconut Grove on the adequate shelter, food, and water. family had endured and how mainland. They went to stay with She was also dealing with the grief their father died. Considering the Eddie’s parents in Miami. After a of having her husband die beside situation, it is remarkable that she few days, perhaps with the idea that her, and with the realization that she was able to write as coherently as the exercise would release pent-up and her three children were facing she did. stress, her mother-in-law suggested an uncertain future now that what The handwritten document is

10 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - SUMMER 2006 difficult to read so the following literal transcription was prepared. No changes have been made to spelling, grammar, or punctuation. Each line contains the words that appear on the corresponding line of the original document. Much of the spelling is phonetic with words written as the writer would pronounce them. Consequently, “her” was written as “hir”, “any” appears as “eny”, “being” as “bing”, “either” as “ethir”, “debris” as “dirbs”, and so forth. The daughters of Mozelle Williams have verified the accuracy of the transcription. Words in italics have been added for navigational purposes. Page One Labor day. Night of Harrow. It was on Labor day evening that the typhoon struck Matacumba Key, hiting hardest on upper Matacumba. And no one new that it was going to be so horrorible. every weather report give no warning of how hard it was. if only one report would have gave the truth it would have saved hundred’s of lives. And hart ache’s. & vacant chair’s. Never did my husband and I realize that it was going to be eny weather till about 4. p.m. We had been to get some grocerys and we meet Capt Ed Shearron at Isalamorada station and him bing a real friend of my husband. gave us warning to leave our home whitch We had just compleated on Image of the first page of Mozelle Williams’ narrative. Photo credit: Scanned by Whale harbir fill. and lived only the Author from Williams Family Collection. five months. he said Eddie If I was you I’d get my family away from twalking. then about Seven oclock and when my bro & wife started the the fill. so then We went to a little the wind began to get harder with Wind picked them up and I thought house that was well built and strong rain. And my husband went out and they was gone and I put my arms braced in every way that a brace turn the car back to the wind around them and sit down with could fit, and my Bro Dan Law & When he come back in, he said if them and my 18 month old baby. wife & 2 children was visiting us. the house starts to go, lets get in the And by the time we all got in the car so we made coffee & Sand car. And it seeam only a few seconds the water began to come up, and we over when it seeam like it just collapsed. started to get out and the water was Page Two And we all Made it to the car. he up to my waist as I stept out of the Witches and was Laughing & carried 2 of the childrin at the time. (Contined on page 12)

SUMMER 2006 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 11 (Night from page 11)

car and my nine year old girl blew out of my reach, and hir dad made a jump and caugh hir drug us all in the car a gain. and, he said here is help come for us, as he saw a light of a distance from us and he got out and tried to make it but he was struck with a heavy timber in the stomach and a heavy lick over the left eye. he just did make it in the car when the watercovered the car. and washed my bro & his 10 year old son out and I just knew Page Three they was gone. but he straped his Son to him with his belt, and was gone for hours it seeams. then the boy call his mother and asked if she was there, and what a realief. Then my husband said to me baby I got a bad pain in my stomach, and ask me to rub it so with my baby in my right arm and my two daughters and niece in my lap I taken my left arm and rubed his stomach. My sisterinLaw, she was rubing him all the time then he reached back with his right hand and caught my left and call me. I sit it seeamed for hours and he begain to turn cold I felt his hart and pulse and I realized what had happen and all I could do was to pray and thank god he heard my prairs. I didn’t want the girls to Mozelle Williams with her son Bob in the spring of 1935. Photo credit: Williams realize what had happen and the one Family Collection. ten years of age, she kept saying Oh Mama I think my dady is dead for for help. and two men come and got got us in the current and we went he is so cold. and she covered him all out but my self and they left and up and kept calling him. And all adrift in the current. if it hadent of this happen early in the night and went for an ax to cut the top of the been for a I sit there all night with him in one car out. and only (god) knows what I Page Five arm and Baby in the other went thro and to haft to leave my dear Negro man that had escaped death (Over) one there. so cold. and it stormed all in the storm I think that we all Page Four day tuesday. late Tuesday evening would have cap sized, but he taken and the children on my lap till day 2 plains tryed to reach us but it was the orr and screamed to the man on began to come and Elizabeth kept still storming. and no aid came till the stearn to shut the motor off and pulling & pushing the dirbs away Wednesday morning. And I had to use the orr, and the Negro worked from the back window of the car leave my brother and his wife to us out of the current and then rowed and she got out but god knows I come first aid and I began to walk us into the mango till another boat don’t see how she did it and she from Matacumba to snake creek picked us up, and taken us across started for help and she was so with those five children. And to and then it was a young cap. help dazed till my bro that was washed Whale harbir we was put in a small me to get the children to a plain at out crawled out of the dirbs and sit boat with some man that was drunk snake creek. hir and his boy down. and he went or ethir couldent handle the boat. he And then the Red Cross taken its

12 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - SUMMER 2006 stepts to provide for us as they put up a perfect job. I haven’t wonted for enything or my three children sence they got to us. and my Bro & his Wife & two children was cared for. they haven’t wonted for eny thing that the red cross could notgive them. And Thank to them for their synpthy & Perfect Sirvice. End of Transcription Mozelle, her sister-in-law, and the five children miraculously came through the storm and evacuation with only scratches and bruises. Her brother, Dan Law, had been trapped outside the car with his son during the most intense part of the storm; they survived by using their belts to strap their bodies to a coconut tree. Dan suffered a scalp wound that became infected, and was taken to a hospital in Miami where he was treated and recovered. When Eddie Williams thought he saw lights off in the distance and left the safety of the car to go get help, he exposed himself to a veritable fusillade of debris including rocks, branches, , and timbers. The thirty-five year old man received hard blows to the forehead and stomach before he returned to the automobile. Medical authorities say it is likely that he had a major blood On the Whale Harbor Fill at the north end of Upper Matecumbe Key, Evelyn (left) vessel ruptured that caused internal and Elizabeth Williams help their brother Bob as they get ready to go to Sunday bleeding. The pressure of blood School. This picture was taken in 1935 several months before the hurricane accumulating in the body cavity struck. Photo credit: Williams Family Collection. could produce the discomfort/aches Eddie complained of before he fell was not aware they were in harm’s mother’s letter. silent and died. By the time burial way of such a powerful hurricane teams reached the site, his body was until it was too late to leave. Thomas Neil Knowles is a retired badly decomposed and had to be college administrator who was born cremated in the wrecked car. The This article is dedicated to and raised in Key West. Some of remains were later removed and the memory of Mozelle and his relatives, Norman Benson and given a proper burial. He was one Eddie Williams, and to their his wife, were victims of the 1935 of over 400 people on the Keys who son, Robert Edward Williams, Labor Day hurricane. He began died as a result of the hurricane. who recently passed away. The researching the hurricane over 10 Mozelle and her children moved author is grateful to the Williams years ago, and has interviewed to Tampa and began their lives anew. family for their willingness to survivors and their families as well Her poignant, first-hand account share their experiences and family as the families of victims. He is reinforces the contention that the photographs, and especially for in the process of documenting this general populace of the Upper Keys allowing the publication of their research in a book.

SUMMER 2006 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 13 Hackley’s Diary William Hackley practiced law been paying the last year. The wind southwest 1, clouds 5. As I in Key West from 1829 to 1857. He steamer Star of the West got in at returned home near the Lighthouse kept a diary for part of the time he 4 P.M. and got off before 7. Several Pont I saw five teal in a little hole was in Key West. Here is the diary deaths onboard on the passage. of water near the beach and as they for September and October 1855. Wednesday, September 26. Rose did not fly I went hone and got my Saturday, September 22. Rose at at 4:30 and walked on the beach. gun and returned finding them in the 4:35 and walked round by the duck Returned and bathed. At 8:40 A.M. same place and firing killed 4 with ponds and the Army Barracks. Took barometer 29.49, thermometer the first barrel and the remaining a shower bath the well having dead 89, wind east northeast 2, clouds one with the other barrel. Walked mice in it and smells bad. At 9 A.M. 3. A very heavy rain in the night. round by Gomey’s and Lighthouse barometer 29.51, thermometer 85.5, Hatty sold her young guinea pigs Ponds home but saw no other wind east southeast 1, clouds 3. to the Californians for $2.50. John game. The brig Huntress sold by Read papers. P.M. Siesta. P. Smith gave me a barrel of Irish the Marshal yesterday evening for Sunday, September 23. Rose at potatoes, he had a quarter of Mutton about $1,000.00. Had the piles so 4:35 and walked on the beach but tied out which spoiled. The disease bad that I did not go down this the tide was so high that I left the on board the steamer Star of the afternoon. Read papers. beach at the big log and went inside West was cholera. There was three Sunday, September 30. Kept wet and back home by the Lighthouse. deaths and several sick about 150 of clothes to my piles all night and they Returned home and bathed. At 8:30 the passengers stopped here there are better this morning but still very A.M. barometer 29.50, thermometer was 600 in all. At 3 P.M. barometer painful. At 9 A.M. barometer 29.55, 86, wind east by south 1, clouds 3. 29.42.5, thermometer 88.5, wind thermometer 86, wind southwest Dined at Alexander Patterson’s. northeast 6, clouds 8. 2, clouds 3. Went home by 11 and Read papers. Several rain squalls Thursday, September 27. Rose remained all day reading papers. passed over the Island. at 4:10 and walked on the beach. Monday, October 1 To sore to Monday, September 24. Rose Returned and bathed. At 9:45 A.M. walk, bathed. At 9 A.M barometer at 4:30 and walked on the beach. barometer 29.45, thermometer 88, 29.50.5, thermometer 86, wind Returned an bathed. At 8 A.M. wind east by north 2, clouds 3. The northwest 1, clouds 3. The ice gave barometer 29.53, thermometer 86, Vanderbilt got off about sunrise. out today and the weather being hot wind east by south 2, clouds 3. Paid The mail from Charleston got in the water is distasteful without it. John Conde for candles, butter and about 3 P.M.. I got a letter from the Read papers. ham $1.35. Paid Kate’s wages to Solicitor of the Treasury about the Tuesday, October 2. Rose at 4:45 William Randolph $8.00 and house money Wills promised me to pay and went to the market. Returned experiences sundries $1.00. Read without service and which it seems and bathed. At 8:45 A.M. barometer papers and Law magazine. he has not done. Read papers. 29.45, thermometer 86, wind west Tuesday, September 25. Rose Friday, September 28. Rose at 4:30 and walked on the beach. at 4:30 and walked on the beach. EDUCATION PROGRAM Returned and bathed. At 8 A.M. Returned and bathed. At 9 A.M. SPONSORS $100 OR MORE barometer 29.54, thermometer barometer 29.47.5, thermometer 84, CAPT. RICHARD G. BRIGHT 85, wind east by north 2, clouds wind calm, clouds 3. I got papers BETTY L. DESBIENS BUD DRETTMANN 4. It rained nearly all night. The from the post office and read them. JOHN & BEATRICE DUKE SHIRLEE EZMIRLY Vanderbilt came in about 12. She Diner at Alexander Patterson’s MARY HAFFENREFFER TOM & LYNDA HAMBRIGHT started with a quantity of freight but where Matilda and the children DR. & MRS. RICHARD F. HNAT CLYDE W. HENSLEY had to go back and discharged the were spending the day. The steamer JOHN H. JONES EDWARD B. KNIGHT freight. The ship is prohibited by Lavana, one of the Texas Line, TOM KNOWLES ROSS & ANN MCKEE its size from carrying freight and passed through about 3 P.M. with BILL MUIR JOHN & KAY PLIMPTON passengers. I got a Bill of Lading out stopping. DAN & VIRGINIA PROBERT LARRY & GRETCHEN RACHLIN from Moreno Brothers for a barrel Saturday, September 29. Rose JUDITH & JAMES ROBERTS MRS. WILLIAM SHALLOW of flour and a box of star candles. at 4:30 and walked on the beach. ED SWIFT Flour is $8.25. Quite reasonable Returned and bathed. At 8:20 A.M. JAN & TY SYMROSKI after the exorbitant price we have barometer 29.53, thermometer 85,

14 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - SUMMER 2006 southwest 2, clouds 3 cumuli in the Saturday, October 6. Rose at northwest. There was an election 4:30 and went to the Market. At yesterday for local officers at which 8:30 A.M. barometer 29.57.5, I did no vote. The Key Wester had thermometer 86, wind southeast 3, BUSINESS MEMBERS a ticket which was badly beat. The clouds 2. Got 1⁄2 barrel of Graham CAPE AIR Foreign element here is to strong flour up to the house. The Haywood KEY WEST INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT KEY WEST 33040 800-352-0714 for them and always will be as out got in last night and went out about COASTAL SAILING ADVENTURE, INC. of a population of near 2,000 white 10. Read papers and Law magazine. 28555 JOLLY ROGER DRIVE not 200 male and female are native P.M. Siesta and Household Words. , FL 33042-0839 295-8844 CONCH TOUR TRAINS, INC. born Americans. Read papers At 4 Sun very hot and nearly calm. 601 DUVAL ST. P.M. barometer 29.40, thermometer Sunday, October 7. Rose about 5 KEY WEST, FL 33040 294-4142 FRIENDS OF ISLAMORADA AREA STATE PARKS 86, wind southwest 5, clouds 6. and bathed. At 9:15 A.M. barometer P.O. BOX 236 Wednesday, October 3. Rose at 29.57, thermometer 87.5, wind south ISLAMORADA, FL 33036 DR. ELIAS GERTH 4:30 and went to the market got southwest 1, clouds 3. The schooner 3412 DUCK AVENUE some fish. Returned and bathed. Florida got in about 9 A.M. The KEY WEST, FL 33040 305-295-6790 HISTORIC FLORIDA KEYS FOUNDATION At 8:15 A.M. barometer 29.40, steamer Isabel did not make her 510 GREENE STREET thermometer 85, wind northwest appearance last night as expected. KEY WEST, FL 33040 HISTORICAL PRESERVATION 3, clouds 2. The piles will not stay Read a Picayne of the 28th. At SOCIETY OF THE UPPER KEYS, INC. P.O. BOX 2200 up and are very sore. Bathed in the home all day. Babe not very well KEY LARGO, FL 33037 tub yesterday three times and took having had fever last night. This day KEY WEST ENGINE SERVICE, INC. one siting. Kept a piece of cotton I completed my forty ninth year in P.O. BOX 2521 KEY WEST, FL 33045 with ointment on the parts and put good health. THE LANGLEY PRESS, INC. some more Mustang Liniment on it Monday, October 8. Rose at 4:20 821 STREET KEY WEST, FL 33040 294-3156 at night. Read Law magazine. P.M. and went to the market and walked MEL FISHER MARITIME HERITAGE SOCIETY Read Putnam’s magazine. At 4 up to the Army Barracks and found 200 GREENE ST. P.M. barometer 29.37, thermometer so much water fell in the shower KEY WEST, FL 33040 294-2633 MILE ZERO PUBLISHING 85.5, wind north northeast 3, clouds of last night that the road is too 5950 PENINSULAR DR. #629 4. wet to walk further. At 8:40 A.M. KEY WEST, FL 33040 USS MOHAWK MEMORIAL MUSEUM Thursday, October 4. Rose barometer 29.53, thermometer 87.5, P.O. BOX 186 at 5:15 and bathed. At 8 A.M. wind north northeast 1, clouds 4. KEY WEST, FL 33041 OLD TOWN TROLLEY barometer 29.47, thermometer 82, Read Law magazine. The steamer 6631 MALONEY AVENUE wind northeast 1, clouds 2. Quite Isabel got in about 3 having been KEY WEST, FL 33040 296-6688 FOUNDATION cool last night. Thermometer at detained in New York for two days. P.O. BOX 500130 home at 6 A.M. 75 in the bedroom. George Bowne, E. Hour, Matilda MARATHON, FL 33050 A.R. SAVAGE & SONS, INC. The brig War Eagle arrived from Benner and Mary and Captain Welch 1803 EASTPORT DR. New York by 8 A.M. Received of came in her. Welch brought my baby TAMPA, FL 33605 813-247-4550 SEACAMP ASSOC. J.B. Browne my fee in the case carriage. The Isabel did not connect RT. 3, BOX 170 of the bark Rainbow, $36.62, at Savannah and brought but a BIG PINE KEY, FL 33043 872-2331 also my fee in the case of the brig small mail. I got my second quarter SEA STORE 614 GREENE ST. Huntress $48.41 and of Tift $5.00 salary and Intelligence and nothing KEY WEST, FL 33040 294-3438 for survey of Quano. Paid several else. The Congressional Globe and SOUTHERNMOST HOTEL IN THE USA 1319 DUVAL STREET bills. P.M. Siesta and read Putnam’s Appointments came and I took a KEY WEST, FL 33040 296-6577 magazine. copy. SCHOONER WESTERN UNION 202R WILLIAM STREET Friday, October 5. Rose about 5 Tuesday, October 9. Rose at 5 KEY WEST, FL 33040 587-2715 and bathed. At 8:45 A.M. barometer and walked round by the beach ST. LOUIS AUTOMATIC SPRINKLER CO. 3928 CLAYTON AVE. 29.52, thermometer 88, wind south and Simonton Road. Returned and ST. LOUIS, MO 63110 314-533-7710 southeast 1, clouds 4. A heavy rain bathed. At 8:35 A.M. barometer WASHINGTON STREET INN 807 WASHINGTON STREET fell during the night. Read papers 29.52.5, thermometer 85, wind KEY WEST, FL 305-296-0550 and Law magazine. P.M. Siesta. northeast 4, clouds 6. Rain during Dined at Alexander Patterson’s the night. The steamer Northern where Matilda was spending the Light came in during the night and day. coaled and got off about 8.

SUMMER 2006 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 15 The wreck of the train sent in the failed effort to save the veterans on the Keys during the Labor Day Hurricane of 1935. Photo credit: Monroe County Library.

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16 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - SUMMER 2006