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The Live Reef Food Fish Trade in Eastern Indonesia

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The Live Reef Food Fish Trade in Eastern Indonesia SPC Live Reef Fish Information Bulletin #3 – December 1997 41 How fresh is too fresh? The live reef food fish trade in Eastern Indonesia by Mark V. Erdmann 1 & Lida Pet-Soede 2 Although the live reef food fish trade has become an increasingly ÔhotÕ topic in the environmental press in recent months, many of the sources reporting on this practice have tended to focus on issues related to the rampant use of sodium cyanide in the trade rather than the more pressing matter of the looming potential for overexploitation engen- dered by this practice. We present here a brief overview of the live reef food fish trade as it is practised in Eastern IndonesiaÑthe methods used and the economics, geographic extent and numerous deleterious effects of the fisheryÑ in order to demonstrate the rather dire situation facing the countries which allow this extremely unsustainable prac- tice to continue in their waters. The live fish trade will focus increasingly on Papua New Guinea and the Pacific Islands. The live reef food fish trade is fuelled by the heavy demand in Hong Kong, Singapore, Taiwan, main- Capture of the fish by stunning them with cyanide land China, and other Chinese centres for the Ôulti- solution is the most common method. In addition mateÕ in fresh fish: those which are selected live to cyanide fishing, significant numbers of live fish from restaurant aquariums only minutes before are captured using hook and line, fish traps, or eating. Such fish are highly priced not only for nets. In Indonesia, fish are collected by two types of their freshness and flavour, but also for their fishers: individuals working alone or in small reputed virility-enhancing and overall health-pro- groups in locally modified boats, often with loaned moting qualities. The target reef fish species equipment/cyanide, and by well-organised teams include rock cod and groupers (Epinephelus spp.), of divers working from large ÔcatcherÕ ships coral trout (primarily Plectropomus spp., but also equipped with 6Ð10 fiberglass dinghies and live- Cephalopholis and Variola spp.), barramundi cod hold tanks that can accommodate 1Ð2 t of live fish. (Cromileptes altivelis) and the Napoleon wrasse Such vessels can range much further afield than (Cheilinus undulatus). Non-reef species such as the small boats, although both types deposit their sea bass (Lates calcarifer) are also part this trade but catch in the same holding cages at central collec- will not be further considered in this article. tion points. Fish then await collation into volumes large enough to justify pick-up and transfer by The prices paid for these highly prestigious fish large transfer vessel (ÔstorageÕ times can vary from are extraordinary: a single, large 40 kg Napoleon only two weeks in the largest collection centres like wrasse can sell for over US$ 5,000, including up to Ujung Pandang and the Moluccas, to four months US$ 245 for the lips alone! Napoleon wrasse and in smaller areas like the Togian Islands). Hong barramundi cod are the two most sought-after Kong is the primary destination for fish caught in species, followed by the more common coral trout Eastern Indonesia, although increasing volumes and grouper species. R. Johannes and M. Riepen are now transshipped to mainland China as well. report that on average live reef fish fetch prices 400Ð800 per cent higher than identical, but dead, Economics of the trade fish in Hong Kong. The economic rewards of this fishery are alluring to fishers and business per- A mentioned above the prices fetched for live fish sons alike; each year the ranks continue to swell make the trade irresistible to many South-East as more companies are enticed into the business. Asian fishers. Table 1 summarises the price struc- The trade now stretches from the Maldives to the ture for the most commonly targeted live food fish South Pacific Islands, with the Philippines and species, with a comparison to the most expensive Indonesia supplying the vast majority of the fish chilled export species in Sulawesi, Indonesia. The to date. According to industry representatives, figures are illuminating: fishers make 2Ð25 times stocks in these two countries are expected to col- more for live fish than for comparable dead ones, lapse within a few years, after which the trade and the price roughly doubles at each step up in 1. Department of Integrative Biology, University of California, Berkeley, CA 94720, USA. 2. Department of Fishculture and Fisheries, Wageningen Agricultural University, The Netherlands. Both authors are conducting their dissertation research in Indonesia. 42 SPC Live Reef Fish Information Bulletin #3 – December 1997 Table 1: Prices of selected live fish for fishers, local exporters and wholesalers/restaurants, 1995. All prices are for Sulawesi, Indonesia, unless otherwise noted. Restaurant prices are scarce in the literature and are therefore grouped with wholesale prices. Species Fishers Local exporters Wholesale/ restaurants (US$/kg) (US$/kg) (US$/kg) Epinephelus spp., Plectropomus spp., 5Ð12; 12 1 25 70Ð100 2 and Cephalopholis spp. Cromileptes altivelis 20 50 90Ð150 2 Cheilinus undulatus 20Ð25 50 90Ð180 2 Scomberomorus commerson 2 3Ð5 Ñ (chilled export) Unspecified grouper 1Ð5 5Ð7 6Ð25 2 (chilled export) Sources: 1 Philippines (Pratt, 1995); 2 Hong Kong (Johannes, 1995) the business. For fishers, these are heady incen- 1995, based on extensive interviews/ personal tives; we calculate that fishers in the live trade observations throughout Eastern Indonesia. This receive US$ 150Ð500/month, which is 3Ð10 times figure is substantially lower than the Johannes and the average monthly salary of artisanal fishers, and Riepen report, and is only 33Ð66 per cent of the fig- 1Ð3 times that of university lecturers! Local fish ures reported for Philippine exports in 1995 (Table 2) exporters can also make enormous gains, although (But see addendum to this article). many new ventures end in bankruptcy in this highly secretive and competitive business. The suc- Similarly, an evaluation of the relative significance cess of local businesses hinges on preventing high of the live grouper trade to the overall grouper fish mortality; a well-managed cage operation with fishery in Indonesia gives conflicting results. In proper antibiotic/antifungal treatment, proper Ujung Pandang (one of the largest collection points feeding, and optimal fish densities can maintain for the live fish trade in Indonesia), the annual mortalities at a modest 10Ð25 per cent. However, export volume of live groupers for 1994/1995 inexperienced operators can suffer up to 100 per approximately equals the annual volume of dead cent mortality due to rough capture/handling of groupers landed in 1993 (Table 2). While these fig- the fish, inadequate shading of the cages, heavy ures are not completely comparable, it should be wave damage, overfeeding, overcrowding and noted that a substantial percentage of the dead exceptionally long storage times. groupers landed is simply dead fish from the live cages. As such, it seems reasonable to suggest that Accurate figures for the volume of live fish trade are for Ujung Pandang, the live grouper trade equals, extremely elusive; many exporting countries such as if not surpasses, the traditional grouper fishery. Indonesia have no official records for the live trade, The situation is different if one examines figures while importing countries such as Hong Kong can for Indonesia as a whole. Official government only provide statistics for gross weights of air/land statistics record 21,757 t of dead grouper landed in shipments. In by far the most comprehensive study 1992, ten times our estimates of the live food trade. of the trade to date, Johannes and Riepen (1995) esti- These figures appear to relegate the live grouper mate that the total annual volume of wild-caught trade to a less significant position within the over- live reef fish food traded in the Asia/Western Pacific all grouper fishery. region is 11,000 to 16,000 t, with Indonesia supply- ing roughly half of that volume in recent years. Deleterious effects of the live fish trade Although we cannot comment on the accuracy of their overall figure, our best estimate of total annual Grouper and other reef fish have traditionally sup- Indonesian live food fish exports is only 2,200 t for ported important fisheries in many countries; the SPC Live Reef Fish Information Bulletin #3 – December 1997 43 Another potential ill effect Table 2: Annual volumes of selected fish exports from Ujung Pandang, South Sulawesi, Indonesia and the Philippines of the live fish trade is the possibility of human health problems caused by con- Area and type of fish Amount exported (t) suming cyanide-tainted fish. To date there do not Dead grouper from Ujung Pandang (1993) 305 1 seem to be any cases of cyanide poisoning from Live grouper from Ujung Pandang (1994/1995) 2 306 eating live fish in the Live grouper from Indonesia (1994/1995) 1,870 2 importing countries; how- ever, these imported live Live reef fish from the Philippines (1995) 3,000 3; 6,000 4 fish did not receive lethal doses. In Indonesia, those Sources: fish which die from 1. Official statistics. cyanide overdose are com- 2. Based on overall estimate of 360 t/year for all live reef fish exports, Ujung Pandang and monly sold on the local 2,200 t/year for Indonesia. Of this, groupers comprise approximately 85% (35% market. These fish would Epinephelus spp., 45% Plectropomus spp., and 5% C. altilevis); C. undulatus is roughly 15%. 3. Based on exports for JanuaryÐOctober 1995 (Pratt, 1995). certainly present a greater 4. Based on exports for JanuaryÐJuly 1995 (Johannes, 1995). health risk than the imported fish, but the gen- eral lack of health care in fishing communities would recent trend towards maintaining them alive can presumably inhibit any epidemiological studies hardly be considered unfavourable in itself.
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