E ll e fihol utit m of afihion

F LOR E NC E MARY GAR D I NE R

” “ ' Au tizo r o a nd Fittin s o r E ve r Hom e Abo u t Gz szes f g f y , p ,

67 m

S IR R O BE R T B R U CE COT T O N.

3 0 10 0 11 :

HE C OTTON R ES S GR NVI LE OU S E AR U NDE L S T REET T P , A L H , ,

R A C Y F N E S E V E L N ,

NT E S F WARWIC K C OU S O ,

E NTHU S IAS TIC AND KIND LY I NT E R ES T I N ALL M OVE ME NTS

C C T NE F T W M E N IS NS RPAS S E AL U LATED O BE I O U U D ,

L M E THIS VO U ,

Y S PECIAL P RM RE S PE CTF U LLY D ED ICATE D E ISS ION, IS ,

T H E A T O R U H ,

I N T HE Y EAR OF

’ HE R M A ESTY U E E N V ICTOR IA D IAMOND U BILE E J Q S J ,

E P R E F A C .

IN c o m pilin g t h is volu m e o n Costu m e (portions O f which origin ally a p pe a re d a M a z n o f M A L u d a te Il l u s t r t e d a i e . . . i n the g g , u nder the editorship r J

w I t o a w a a v m Bo den) , desire ck no ledge the valu ble assistance I h ve recei ed fro sou rces n o t usu ally a v a ilable t o the public ; also m y indebted ness t o the followi n g

a —M r B M R D M . E . f m w w . . . au thors , ro hose orks I h ve quoted eck , r avey , r

P a é I R M n a n d M . R K . . . m m . i el , r ight , the late r J l nch also tak e this

a M L O . M . a M E R C . . O n . . pportu ity Of th n king essrs iberty and , essrs J y , essrs

M Wa l e r M Bo x a n d wh o a ff d m e a l . O rro u d . Ga , essrs y, r , others , h ve ere speci l

fo r a w n a n & c m a a d . O f cilities consulting r i gs , en gr vi gs , , in their possession , ny f w a a we m e to b a id M hich they h ve cou rteously llo d reproduce , y the Of iss

t He n sm a n a . Julie , and oth er rtists

Th e book lays n o clai m t o bein g a tech n ica l tre a tise o n a subj ect which

w n w Of is p ractically ine x hau stible , bu t has been ritte ith th e intention bringin g be fore the general public in a popul a r m a n n er Circ u m stances which h ave in fluenced

m a w a o f t h e B N n in a rked deg ree the earing p parel ritish atio .

F LOR E N E M ARY G R NE R C A D I .

f ’ e s t Ke m z rz t o n 1 8 . ” g , 97 C O N T E N T S .

P E . CHAPTE R . AG

— D 1 HE D E B . A. . 8 1 T R SS . C . , 5 94 9 7

U IO HEA GEA I I . C R U S D R

GLOVES I I I .

U RIOU S F OOTGEAR IV . C

BRIDAL OSTU M E V . C

VI .

V E CCE NT RIC IT IE S OF MAS C U LI NE I I .

A HAT ABOU T HILD RE N AND THEI R L THI N VI I I . C C C O G

IX FANCY T M E OF ARI P R . C OS U V OU S E IODS

TAGE AND F RAL T M X . S LO C OS U E CHAPTE R I .

D R E S S ,

T HE EVO LU T IO N O F FAS HIO N

C AP E R H T I .

B — 8 D R . C . A. D 1 . T E . H E S S , 5 94 9 7

Fa sh io n s h a a re n o w ca e n e w t t ll d table fibres, while furs and skins are essential Ha ve be e n o rn b m o re h a n o u w y t y o f N articles dress in orthern latitudes . Per E e r i e s h a v e u se th e sa e ld t m d m , ’ o f Th o u h h s n o n e h n a e haps the earliest specimen a modiste s bill g t e e e w s ge t t e m .

’ in existence has recently been found on a ’ “ M iddl t n a or o m zz u b e o s M boro . y f Q g t Th e chalk table at Nippur, in Chaldea . HARD fate has condemned human hieroglyphics record ninety- two robes and tunics : fourteen o f these were perfumed beings to enter this mortal sphere h with myrrh , aloes and cassia . T e date of without any natural covering, like that this curious antique cannot be less than two possessed by the lower animals to protect thousand eight hundred years before the them from the extremes o f heat and cold . Christian era . In ancient times it must be Had this been Otherwise, countless myriads, remembered that the principal seats o f civili for untold ages, would have escaped the E F sation were Assyria and gypt, and upon tyrannical sway of the goddess ashion, and ' these countries Western nations depended F ) 17 et a l so u rzr o u r etre the rench prove b, f f p f Th for many of the luxuries o life . e Jews bel l e . , need never have been written derived their fine fabrics from the latter Th e costume of o u r progenitors was chiefly a rem rkable for its extreme simplicity ; and , ff as far as we can gather , no di erence in design was made between the sexes. A few l eaves entwined by the stalks, the feathers of

k o f o r ro u h l ~ dre sse d birds, the bar trees, g y skins of animals were probably regarded by bea u x and bel l es Of the Adamite period as beautiful and appropriate adornments fo r the n body, and were followed by garme ts made from plaited grass, which was doubtless the origin of weaving, a process which is nothing more than the m echanical plaiting

o f &c . hair, wool , flax, In many remote e districts th se primitive fashions still prevail , as, for example, in Madras, where, at an annual religious ceremony, it is customary for the l o w caste natives to exchange for a short period their usual attire for an apron o f '

. l ee tbzs leaves In the Brazilian forests the y , “ ” f or shirt tree , is to be found, rom which o ff the people roll the bark in short lengths, o u t and, after making it pliable in water, two - o n e fo r slits for the arm holes and the neck , when their dress is complete and ready for Th use. e North American Indian employs

feathers for purposes of the toilet, and many African tribes are noted fo r their deftly-woven E E fabrics composed of grass and other ve ge ARLY GYPTIAN . N OF FAS HI ON THE E VOL UTI O .

was a rtic u place, which p rian costume is shown in l a rl o n e y noted for its linen double rows , pendent , manufactures and for mag while the other stands o u t

n ifice n t o f d . embroideries , in a horizontal irection Th e which the accompanying early Greek dress, o r wa s illustration will give some chiton , a very idea . Medes and Baby simple contrivance, reach

o f C t o . u n lomans , the highest lass, ing the feet If o n partially arrayed themselves girdled, it would trail the in silk , which cost its weight ground ; but generally it was an d o r in gold , about the time drawn through the zone B of Ezekiel ( C . 5 94) it is waistbelt in such a manner known to have been used that it wa s double to the ex f in the dress o f the Persians . tent O about thirty inches It is a remarkable circum over the vital organs o f the ro Th stance that this animal p body. e great distinction du ct was brought to the between male and female We st m a n u fa c tu re din cloth , dress consisted in the length o f Th which was only half silk ; the skirt. e trim wa s o f and it is said the plan mings were embroidery, o f devised unravelling the woven diapers , figure bands f wa s stu f, which rewoven with chariots and horses ;

o f . into cloth entire silk and , in some cases, glass O wing to its high price, the ornaments and thin metal

Romans forbade its being plates were applied. Among used for the entire dress by the working classes the o f E o f men , complete robes silk GR E K , chiton was , course , home

fo r . o r being reserved women spun, of leather. It is numbered among the Th e stola wa s the R oman extravagant luxuries Of equivalent fo r the nine Heliogabalus that he wa s t e e n th century robe o r wh o the first man wore a gown , and in many respects silken garment, and the resembled the Greek chiton . anecdote is well known o f Th e fabrics employed were E wh o the mperor Aurelian , wool and linen up to the o n O o f refused , the ground f end the Republic, though a l its extravagant cost, a silk at a later date, as has wa s dress which his consort ready been stated , silk

. earnestly desired to possess imported . Colour, under u E Mon ments still in ex the mperors , was largely ist e n c e S how that the used, and at least thirteen E gyptians, owing to the shades o f the dye Obtained o f warmth their climate, from the murex, which were partial to garments of passed under the general - n o f a semi transparent charac ame purple, could be ter , while those living on seen in the costume o f both o f T wh o the banks the igris, sexes . were subjected to greater When the Roman E m O extremes f temperature, A. D . pire was dismembered, ( f wore clothing o similar 39 5 ) a style o f dress see ms o f design , but wool , with to have flourished in the im f heavy fringes o the same portant towns o f the Medi

’ . e a n wh ich wa s as a trimming In some terran , similar cases this feature of Assy to that worn in m edi aeval

ROMAN . THE E L U TI N VO O OF F AS HI OIV.

times in Britain, and which may broidered the coronation h e rh u sba n d E be examined in the specimens mantle of , dward o f of statuary adorning tombs the Confessor. the twelfth and thirteenth cen Fo r some years after the h - t u rie s. T e N semi tight under orman Conquest, women dress and sleeves appear to retained the costume Of the

- have been elaborately em Anglo Saxon period, with cer m broidered , and the loose tain additions and o difica f F mantle o plain material was tions . ine coloured cloths edged with a border. and richest furs were used by n e O de scri O f the earliest p both sexes, and sleeves and tions o f the female dress in trains were such a length that

Britain is that Of Boadicea, it was found necessary to knot u n o t the Queen of the Iceni , whom them , so that they sho ld we are told wore a tunic woven trail upon the ground . Th e chequerwise in purple, red, next important change and blue . Over this was a was the surcoat and tight o n shorter garment Open the bodice, which was fastened in bosom , and leaving the arms front to fit the figure . l T bare . Her ye low hair flowed here are evident traces over her shoulders, upon that as civilisation advanced " wh ich re st e d o f an ample cloak , the love dress and the bu l a o f secured by a fi (brooch) . desire the fair sex to appear o r o f A torque , necklet, was beautiful in the eyes all also worn ; a pair o f bronze beholders increased in like pro F breastplates as a protection portion . rom ancient MSS . from the Roman arrows, and B Z E and other sources, we have Y ANTIN . her fingers and arms were ample proof o f this. St . Jerome covered with rings and brace ca lls women o f lets . that is to say, lovers finery, Th e costume o f the Anglo and another writer states : “ Saxon ladies consisted of a On e o f the most difficult ' sl ze rte o r ea m zse o f to , , linen next points manage with women o u t the skin , a kirtle, which is to root their curiosity

’ resembled the modern petti for clothes and ornaments fo r ”

o r w . . coat, and a gunna, go n , the body St Bernard ut with sleeves. O of doors a admonished his sister with mantle covered the upper po r greater candour than polite o f o n tion the body, and with the ness her visiting him , well c l o t h in e rr i . coverchief, or head rail, formed a a e d with riche g , a characteristic feature o f the with perles and precious “

o f . : dress the day Cloth , silk , stones Such pompe and and linen were the favourite pride to adorne a carion as is Th in k fo r . e materials clothing, and youre body ye not f red , blue, yellow, and green o the pore people, that be c o l de the fashionable colours . Very de ye n for hunger and ; little black and white were and that for the sixth parte o f used at this period . Saxon youre gay arraye, forty persons f r women were renowned o might be clothed, refreshed, ” ke t e c o l de ? their skill with the needle, and and p from the used large quantities o f gold Th e increased facilities for thread and jewels in their travelling offered to those work . Among other instances engaged in the Crusades, and E a m quoted, Queen dith e the necessary intercourse with

-S AX N ANGLO Q , AS HI N . 6 THE E VOL U TI ON OF F O l z o o marks were permitted to wear silver c oth , other nations, caused considerable quantities

E n & c . , o f foreign materials t o be imported to g with ribands , girdles, reasonably embel l ish e d e land during the Middle Ages : and this had ; also woollen cloth not costing mor ' a corresponding e fie c t upon the costume o f than six marks the piece. T h e tight forms o f dress n o w in common use among women were an incentive to tight

lacing, an injurious practice, from which their ff 1 5 descendants su er. A lady described

C a In u r e a l d p pl p ll , l a n d i e s a With ge n ty l bo dy m ddl m ll ,

and another damsel , whose splendid girdle of beaten gold wa s embellished with emeralds

and rubies, evidently, from the description , had a waist which was not the size intended

by Nature . During the Wars of the Roses both trade

and costume made little progress , and after the union o f the Houses o f York and La n VII caster by the marriage o f Henry . with E n his Queen, lizabeth , their atte tion was chiefly concerned in filling their impoverished

I Z TH E C NTURY .

fl the period , which was chie y remarkable for its richness and eccentricity o f form . Among the materials in use may be mentioned F diaper cloth from Ypres , a town in landers , fo r a famous its rich dress stuffs ; t rtan , called ' “ ” ‘ F t re t a in e te z m o r by the rench y , meaning , colour o f Tyre (scarlet being indifferently fo r used purple by ancient writers, and including all the gradations o f colour formed o f by a mixture blue and red, from indigo T to crimson) . here was a fine white woollen

cloth called Blanket, named after its inventor,

Sarcenet, also from its Saracenic origin , and a gauze which was m de at Gaza in Palestine . Ermine wa s strictly confined to the use o f F the Royal amily and nobles, and I 4TH CE NTURY.

cloth of gold , and habits embroidered with o r o r f jewellery, lined with minever other cof ers, which left them little opportunity for n w e . expensive fur, could only be worn by knights promoting fashions in dress Henry 0 0 a f and ladies with incomes exceeding 4 marks V III . forded ample facilities for the revival

e r a . T e w o h ad m f h l e p nnum hos h not ore than o t e trade in dress goods, and th e re is ittl THE E VOL U TI ON OF F A

f “ di ficulty in tracing female costume of the She was robed in cloth of gold , with a ‘ ’ o f sixteenth century when we remember that in saya (petticoat) brocade, the sleeves the course of thirty-eight years he married lined with crimson satin and trimmed with

- . wa s six wives , besides having them painted times three piled crimson velvet Her train more than t wo yards long Articles o f I II dress were often bequeathed by will . o n e o n I th o f 1 0 made the 4 August, 5 4 , o f Wa t e rbe c h William Cherington , yeoman, e , “ ’ ” T o m bol a a own e leaves my mother y y y g . N o f Fe ve rsh a m 2 th icholas, Dyer , 9 October, “ 1 0 To Bich e n d ke 5 4 , my sister, Alice y , ' thirteen shillings and ninepence zo bze/z s/ze ’ ” o wea m e o f , and two kerchiefs holland . o f I John Holder, rector Gamlingay , in 5 44 leaves to Jane Greene “ my clothe frock T lined with satin cypress . hese entries El are from wills in the y Registry . A peculiar feature in the costume o f both

sexes was sleeves distinct from the gown , but attached (so as to be changed at plea in e n sure) t o the waistcoat . Among the v

I 6TH E C NTURY .

F rom Po rt ra it o M a r u e n o S ea s f y Q e f t . without number by all the popular artists o f the day. J . R . Planché in his History of British ” “ : Th e Costume, says gowns of the nobility were magnificent, and at this period were open in front to the waist, showing the kirtle, o r w inner garment , as hat we should call the ” was o f petticoat then termed . Anne Cleves , ’ wh o found so little favour in Henry s eyes, is said to have worn at their first interview a rich go wn e o f cloth o f gold made round without any train , after the Dutch fashion ; and in a wardrobe account o f the eighth year ’ o f this Bluebeard s reign a ppears the follow “ in : g item Seven yards of purple cloth o f I 7TH CENTURY . damask gold for a kirtle for Queen Cathe o f o f rine Arragon . Th e dress o f Catherine tories we find three pairs purple satin fo r o f Parr is thus described by Pedro de Gante, sleeves women , one pair linen sleeves u Wi secretary to the Spanish Duke de Najera, paned with gold over the arm , q ilted th d V 1 - 1 : n f who visite Henry III . in 5 4 3 5 44 black silk a d wrought with lowers ; one H N 8 THE E VOL U TI ON OF F AS I O . pair of sleeves of purple gold tissue damask costume o f Britain more picturesque than in o n e o n e o f wire, each tied with aglets of gold ; the middle the seventeenth century, and pair of crimson satin sleeves , four buttons we naturally turn to its great delineators f o n V Va n o gold being set each, and in every elasquez, Dyck , Rembrandt, and button nine pearls . Rubens , who delighted in giving us such fine f We are all familiar with the distended examples o their work . Women had grown fa rdin a l e skirts, jewelled stomachers and enormous tired of the unwieldy g , and changed ruffs which adorned the virgin for m of Good it fo r graceful gowns with flowing skirts and f l o w o . Queen Bess . In the middle her reign bodices, finished with deep vandyked the body was imprisoned in whalebone, and collars of lace or embroidery . ’ ‘ fa rdin a l e O a ésba bzl l e the g , the prototype f the modern A studied negligence, an elegant hoop, was introduced , as it was not to be prevailed in the Stuart Court, particularly s u p p o s e d after the R e st o ra ‘ h rl . a e s II s that a lady tion C . who is said bevy o f beauties to have left are similarly a t three thou tired , and the pic sand dresses tures in Hampton in her ward Court S how us robe would w o m e n wh o s e r e m a i n snowy necks and faithful to the fashions arms are no longer o f her grandmother ; veiled, and whose ’ E Of and lizabeth s love gowns rich satin , o f dress permeated with voluminous all classes of society . trains, are piled up Th e portrait o f in the background . E Mary Queen of Scots, ngravings and who was considered drawings which an authority o n may be seen in ’ rin tse l l e r s matters of the toilet, every p and whose taste for w i n d o w m a k e elegance o f apparel s p e c i a l i l l u s had been cultivated t ra t io n s Of this to a high degree period u n n e ce s during her residence sary . at the French Court Dutch fashions T is given . here is a appear to have subtlety and charm followed in the about it which is wake o f William wanting in the cos and Mary . Sto I TH E I STH E R . 9 C NTURY. C NTU Y tume o f her cousin machers and tight B RES S I 80 WA I S E E ALL D , 9. LK NG CO TUM lizabeth , and it may sleeves were once O o f he considered a fair type f what wa s worn more in favour, and fabrics a rich and o f Th by a gentlewoman that period . e full substantial character were employed in pre o f skirt appears to fall in easy folds , and the ference to the softer makes silk , which f basqued bodice, with tight sleeves , is closely lent itself so well to the so t flowing lines of moulded to the figure and surmounted by an the previous era. “ elaborately- constructed ruff o f muslin and An intelligent writer has remarked that lace. Fashion from the time o f George I . has been T o the great regret of antiquarians, the such a varying goddess that neither history, o f o u r wardrobes ancient kings, formerly tradition , nor painting has been able to pre T kept at the ower, were by the order of serve all her mimic forms ; like Proteus

. d r e . on th e James I ist ibut d At no period was the struggling in the arms of Telemachus,

HI N t o THE E VOL U TI ON OF F AS O .

Th e aesthetic movement has also had a fitness, beauty, and the canons of good

s . marked influence on o u r taste in all direction , taste Two but more especially in the costume o f the dominant notes, however, have been f last few years ; and tho u gh the picturesque struck in the harmonies o costume during the — - - five last twenty years the tailor made dress, which may almost be regarded as a national

livery ; and the tea gown , that reposeful gar ment to which we affectionately turn in o u r

hours o f ease . How well each in its way is calculated to serve the purpose fo r which it

is designed, the simple cloth , tweed , or serge

costume moulded to the lines of the figure, o u r adapted to changeful climate, and giving

a to the wearer, not always found in

- E E S S I 8 . TAILOR MAD DR , 9 7 garb of the worshippers o f the sunflower and the lily may not be adapted to the wear and tear of this workaday world , it is beautiful in o f form and design , incapable undue pres sure ; and for children and young girls it would be difli cul t to imagine a more charm ing, artistic, and becoming costume . Once more we are eschewing classical lines fo r grotesque which makes caricatures o f lovely women , and drives plain ones to Th despa ir. e subdued and delicate tints wh ich a few seasons since were regarded with favour have been superseded by garish shades and bright colours , which seem to N quarrel with everything in ature and Art . U E nfortunately, we nglish are prone to

, T EA W 1 8 extremes and possess the imitative rather GO N , 9 7, than the creative faculty. Consequently, our

a ra i n al national costume is seldom distinctive, but a much more costly apparel , t o costume o f o f o f o f combination some the worst styles in the best sense the word, and one which o ur C wh o ontinental neighbours, would scorn women o f all ages may assume with sa t isfa c f r to garb themselves with so little regard o tion to themselves a n d to those with whom THE E VOL U TI ON OF FAS HI ON 1 1

Th . e they come in contact tea gown, on the dress of decrepitude, submit to be placed on other hand , drapes the figure loosely so as to the social shelf without a murmur, and fall in graceful folds , and may be regarded as a calmly allow those slightly their junior, and in a distinct economy, as it so often takes the place some cases their senior, to appropri te the of a more expensive dress . Beauty, which is ’ one of Heaven s best gifts to women , is use less unless appropriately framed , and a well known exponent on the art of d ressing artisti rm cally, has laid down the axiom that ha onies o f colour are more successful than contrasts . If we turn to Nature we have an unfailing Th . e source of inspiration foliage tints , sun ff set e ects, the animal and mineral worlds all ff o er schemes of colour, which can be readily adapted to our persons and surroundings . o u r And to look best and, above all , to grow old gracefully, is a duty which every daughter

E MODERN E VE NING DR S S .

good things of life, and to monopolise the f attention o all and sundry . Mothers in their prime willingly a llow a nyone who ca n be per sua de d to do so, to chaperone their d aughters , and to pilot them through the social eddies and quicksands of their first

season , and through sheer indolence fail to S ES S 1 8 AN ARTI TIC DR , 9 7. exercise the lawful authority and responsibility

A te r a a i n ti n b S i r J arba a R e l d . Th e f p g y y no s . which maternity entails unmarried

woman, conscious that she is no longer in E v w e . Th e ff of o es to humanity manner in her first youth , and indi erent to the charms i wa wh ch so many women give y early in life of maturity, takes to knitting socks in obscure

- . o f is simply appalling While still in the bloom corners, and assumes an air self repression of womanhood they assume the habits an d and middle-agedness which apparently takes I I N THE E VOL U T ON OF FAS H O .

o f ten years from her span existence, and which fall in stately folds, and give her dignity, conveys to the casual onlooker, that she has than if she persists in decking herself in passed the boundary line between youth and muslin, crepon, net, and similar materials, old age . Why should these women sink because in the long since past they suited f s before their time into a slough o dowdyism her particular style . Gos amers belong to o ff s and cut themselves from the enjoyments the young, with their dimpled arms, shoulder ? civilisation has provided for their benefit of snowy whiteness , and necks like columns

E w h o . T i qually to be deprecated are those of ivory heir eyes are br ghter than jewels , cling so desperately to youth that they entirely and their luxuriant locks need no ornament o f c o m e forget the later stages life have their save a rose n stling in its green leaves, a h f n sa t io n s. w o o pe Women in crowded ball fit emblem youth and beauty. rooms display their redundant o r attenuated With the education and art training at s forms to the gaze of all beholders, whose present within the grasp of all cla ses of the ff coi ure owes more to art than nature, and community there is nothing to prevent our wh o comfort themselves with the conviction modifying prevailing fashions to o u r o wn that in a carefully shaded light rouge and requirements ; and common sense ought to pearl powder are hardly distinguishable from teach us (even if we ignore every other senti the bloom o f a youthful and healthy com ment which Is supposed to guide reasoning a plexion . A v riety of circumstances combine creatures) that one particular style cannot be to bring into the world a race o f people who a ppropriate to women wh o are exact opposites cannot strictly lay claim to beauty , but who to each other . If each person would only nevertheless have many g ood points which think out for herself raiment beautiful in might be accentuated, while those that are form , rich in texture, and adapted to the

. o f less pleasing could be concealed A middle daily needs life, we should be spared a aged woman will respect herself and be more large number o f the startling incongruities ff respected by others if she drapes her person which o end the eye in various directions . in velvet, brocade, and other rich fabrics C HAPTE R I I .

R O A D A R C U I U S H E G E .

1 THE E VOL U TI ON OF FAS HI ON. 5

CHAPTE R I I .

C U R I O U S H E A D G E A R .

He re In h e r h air surprising that Artemisia could not console a in e a s th e s i e r a n d h a h w0 \ e n Th e p t r pl y p d , t herself for the loss of such a clever husband , A go ld e n m e sh t o e n tra p th e h e a rts o f m e n b ’ Fa ste r th a n gn a ts in c o bwe s. Tbe M e re /ta u t of Ve n u e OLY Writ simply teems with allusions H to the !luxurious tresses o f the fair o f E daughters the ast , and there is little doubt that at an early period in the world ’s history women awakened to the fact that a well - tired head wa s a very potent attraction , and had a recognised market value Jewish women were particularly famed in this respect, and employed female wh o barbers , , with the aid of crisping pins , horns, and towers, prepared their clients for T conquest. hese jewelled horns were gene f rally made o the precious metals , and the position denoted the condition of the wearer. A married woman had it fixed o n the right f o n side o the head , a widow the left , and

E - E SS she who was still an unappropriated blessing EGYPTIAN H AD DR . o n the crown . Over the horn the veil wa s . thrown coquettishly , as in the illustration and that, not satisfied with drinking his ashes o f Assyrian women delighted in long ringlets, dissolved in wine, she spent some her ’ confined by a band o f lamented lord s ill - gotten a n d meta l , the men were revenue in building such a not above the weakness of monument to his memory plaiting gold wire with their that it was counted one of “ Th e o f . beards . Rimmel, in the wonders the world ” o f Th e E Book Perfumes, relates gyptians were also o f o f a curious anecdote Mau partial to wigs, some solus, King of Caria , who which are still preserved ’ turned his people s fond in the British Museum . ness for flowing locks to Ladies wore a multitude o f account when his e xch e small plaits and jewelled

- quer required replenishing . head pieces resembling pea

Having first had a quan cocks and other animals, tity o f wigs made and which contrasted with their stored in the royal ware dark tresses with brilliant f r houses, he published an ef ect ; o a fillet orna edict compelling all his m e n t e d with a lotus bud . subjects to have their heads Th e c o iflu re o f a princess - E EW S E D D ES S . shaved . A few days after, ANCI NT J I H H A R was remarkable for its size the monarch ’s agents went and the abundance of ani f round, o fering them the perukes destined to mal , vegetable, and mineral treasures with E cover their denuded polls, which they were which it was adorned . In gyptian tombs delighted to buy at any price ” It is not and elsewhere have been discovered small N HI . 1 6 THE E VOLU TI ON OF FAS O wooden combs resembling the modern tooth famous instance o f the consecration o f hair is o f E o f that Of Berenice, the wife Ptolemy ver comb, and metal mirrors precisely the w same shape as those in use at the present ge t e s. It is related that hen the king went t o on his expedition Syria , she, solicitous

E CI E E A R A . ANCI NT GR AN . NCI NT OM N

a l i day, as well as numerous other toilet pp his safety, made a vow to consecrate her a n c e s hair (which was remarkable fo r its fineness i O o rt u V . Grec an sculpture affords us the pp and beauty) to enus, if he returned to her n ity of studying the difle re n t modes in favour When her husband came back she kept her h e r in that country, and it is word , and offered hair astonishing to find what a in the temple o f Cyprus . variety o f methods were This wa s afterwards miss

o f ~ wa s adopted by the belles ing , when a report ancient Greece fo r e n h a n c spread that it had been ing their charms . A loose turned into a constellation knot, fastened by a clasp in in the heavens, which con o f o l d the form a grasshopper, stellation, an writer tells ’

. Co m a B e re rzzees was a favourite fashion us, is called o f o f Cauls network , metal (the hair Berenice) to ' o f difl e re nt mitres designs, the present day . Another and simple bands, and remarkable instance is that C O o f N sometimes haplets, f ero, who , according to o ff flowers , all confined, at Suetonius, cut his first difle re n t periods, the luxu beard, put it in a casket of ’ o f riant locks the Helens , gold set with jewels, and X Penelopes, and antippes consecrated it to Jupiter

o f c n . i l in Ca t o u s. an ie t times - E NGLI S H H EAD DRES S OF T HE p wa s c Th e o f It a common ustom I TH C E hair the head and 3 NTURY . among heathen nations to beard appears t o have been d ff consecrate to their go s the hair when cut o , held in great respect by most nations, and w as well as that growing on the head, and it perhaps e may trace the use of human hair ’

o n a . was either consumed the alt r, deposited in spells and incantations to this fact '

o r . in temples , hung upon the trees A Orientals especially treat the hair which falls

F FAS HI N. 1 8 THE E VOLU TI ON O O

f writers referred to their washing their auburn a variety o shapes , of which the accompany tresses in water boiled with lime to increase ing sketches will give a better idea than any

w . the reddish colour . Boadicea is described ritten description with flowing locks which fell upon her During the sixteenth century matrons shoulders ; but after the Roman Invasion adopted either a pointed hood , composed of velvet or other rich fabric, often edged with

- fittin F fur, a close g coif, or the rench cap to be seen in the portraits o f the unhappy Mary wh o Stuart . Those were unmarried had their hair simply braided and embellished o f o r with knots o f ribbon , strings pearls , Nature’s most beautiful adornment for the

— - maiden sweet scented flowers . Th e auburn tresses o f Her Gracious ’ bt on Majesty Queen Elizabeth , were always z ée eo fi , if we may judge from her various

, portraits . She scorned the hoods, lace caps

and pointed coifs, worn by her contempo o r raries, and adopted a miniature crown

. jaunty hat of velvet, elaborately jewelled Her fair complexion and light hair were f o f thrown into relief by ru fles lace, and this

’ E - E S S W I HORN E D H AD DR OF E D ARD v. s E I R GN .

the hair o f both men and women followed

the fashion o f the conquerors . ’ From Pl a n ch é s History o f British “ ' th e fe m a l e Costume, we learn that head — dress among all classes o f the Anglo Saxons wa s a long piece o f linen o r silk wrapped ” round the head and neck . It appears to

- have been called a head rail, or wimple, but

was dispensed with in the house, as the hair was then as cherished an ornament as at the Adh l m . W e present day A ife described by , o f wh o Bishop Sherborne, wrote in the “ eighth century , is said to have had twisted

locks, delicately curled by the iron and in “ the poem o f Judith the heroine is called “ O , . - the maid f the Creator with twisted locks E LIZ ABE THAN H EAD DR E SS . W N T O long plaits were worn by orman ladies , and were probably adopted by our o wn delicate fabric wa s stretched over fine wire

countrywomen after the Conquest . frames , which met at the back , and remotely

During the Middle Ages feminine head suggested the fragile wings of the butterfly,

. o r o f o f gear underwent many changes Golden nets , the nimbus a saint , neither which and linen bands closely pinned round the ornaments wa s particularly appropriate to the c Th e wa s hair and hin , were followed by steeple lady in question . front hair turned - r ff shaped erections and horned head dresses in over a cushion , o dressed in sti sausage FAS HI N 1 THE E VOL UTI ON OF O . 9

fo r a like curls, pinned close to the head , and was left to the sterner sex some ye rs after the o f o f a adorned with strings and stars of flashing restoration the House Stu rt , and - gems and a pendant resting on the forehead . women were satisfied with well brushed wh o T hat splendid historian , Stubbs , has ringlets escaping from a bandeau of pearls , ( Th e left us such minute particulars of the fashions or be a u tifie d by a single flower. hair

was often arranged in small, flat curls on the o f o f forehead, as in the sketch a Beauty the f Court o Charles II . and this fashion had a ff o n softening e ect the face, and was known ” as the Sevigne style . Dutch fashions naturally prevailed in the o f Court William and Mary, and this queen

is represented with a high muslin cap , i adorned with a series o f upright fr lls, edged o n with lace, and long lappets falling the Fa r u h a r shoulders . q , in his comedy Love “ and the Bottle, alludes to the high top “ knots, and Swift, to the pinners edged ” c o l be rt e e n with , as the lace streamers were

called . About this period the hair was once

again rolled back from the face, and assumed

enormous dimensions , so much so, that in some cases it was found necessary to make BE AUTY OF 'TH E COURT OF CHAR LES I L o f ff o f his time , quaintly describes the coi ure f “ the ladies o the Court. He states : It be o u t must curled , frizzled , crisped, laid in wreaths and borders from o n e ear to the other, and lest it should fall down , must be fo rke s underpropped with and weirs, and ornamented with gold or silver curiously u n wrought. Such gewgaws , which being ’ f t e a rm s skil ul in woman s , I cannot easily recount . Then upon the t o ppe s of their l stately turrets , stand their other capita orna F ments a rench hood , hatte , cappe, kircher and suchlike, whereof some be of velvet, o f some this fashion and some o f that. o f n e t wire Cauls made , that the cloth of gold , o r silver, tinsel , with which their hair was sometimes covered , might be seen through and lattice caps with three horns or corners, ” o f Th e like the forked caps popish priests .

No . 1 6 Harleian MSS . , 77 , written in the ’ o f E d middle lizabeth s reign , refers to an or i ’ nance fo r the reformation o f gentlewomen s “ -d : N END I TH CE T R head ress, and says one shall wear an OF 7 N U Y. ermine or lattice bonnet unless she be a ” T gentlewoman born , having Arms . his doorways broader and higher than they had - latter phrase, we may conclude , refers to hitherto been , to allow fashionably dressed a s W armorial be rings, not to physical develop ladies to pa s through ithout displacing the '

. fl ment elaborate erections they ca rried . S tu e d Th e i o f wear ng false hair and periwigs was with horsehair, clotted with pomade and c 2 FAS HI N 20 THE E VOL U TI ON OF O .

V e a powder, and decked with every conceivable aried , ind ed, h ve been the fashions of - o f- wa r In 1 th o f ornament, from a miniature man the o century , the close which is fast

. O full sail , to a cooing approaching nly dove with outspread a few o f the styles wings, presumably adopted can be o n o r sitting its nest, briefly touched upon , f a a basket o flowers and , n turally, those wreathed with rib will be selected which N bons . aturally, the form the greatest aid o f the barber wa s contrast to each other. Th e o f 1 8 0 called in , as ladies belle 3 were incapable o f wa s distinguished by c o n s t r u ct i n g a n d u p standing bows o f manipulating such a plain or plaited hair, o f o n mass tangled locks . a rran g e d t h e o n o f We may imagine, crown the head , the score o f expense and the front was o r and for other reasons, generally in bands h n o t h the air was s ort ringlets , held dressed so frequently in place by tortoise

si ' c m Th as cleanliness de shell de o bs. e m a n de d , for in a simplicity of this book o n costume a coiffure was c o m pe n hairdresser is de sated for by the FA S H IONABLE COI FFUR E O F AN E LD E RLY LADY scribed as asking o n e enormous size o f the IN THE I STH CENTURY . o f his customers how hats and bonnets long it wa s since her generally worn with T hair had been opened it . hese had wide a n a n d - and rep ired . O curiously shaped “ N her replying, ine brims, over which wa s o r weeks , he mildly stretched suggested that that gathered silk , satin , wa s a o r as long as a head erophane, similar could well go in materials . Garlands “ o f summer, and, there a n d b u n ch e s it wa s fore, proper to flowers and feathers

it n o w ro fu ~ deliver , as it were used in p began to be a little sion , and bows and ’ ” ba z a ra e V . arious strings o f gau ze rib anecdotes o f this bo n floated in the be nature make us feel wind . In this that personal hygiene w it c h i n g c o s t u m e was a matter of w er e o u r gra n d se c o n da ryim po rt a n ce mothers wooed and o u r to ancestors . wo n by suitors wh o

Planché , in his evidently, from the work o n British Co s impassioned love let

tume, informs us ters still in existence, that powder main believed them to be t a in e d e rfe ct o f its ground till " p types love FAS HIONABLE H E AD -DR ES S ES IN T HE TIM ES OI 1 was in s 793, when it l e s. THE G E ORG ES . discarded by Her T o w a r d s t h e ’ o f V Majesty Queen Charlotte, Consort o f George middle Queen ictoria s reign , the hair ” . wa s In III , and the Princesses. dressed a simple knot, and the front THE E VOL U TI OA OF F AS HI ON 2 1

r o n Th e o f a ranged in ringlets, which fell gracefully labours Hercules would be mere E ’ the chest and shoulders . ven youthful child s play compared to giving a faithful o f o f - married ladies , in the privacy their homes record the chameleon like changes which f and for morning dress, were expected, by have a fected that kaleidoscope, public taste,

’ - Bi R D s E S I O 1 8 2 E S E DAY 1 8 . N T CH GN N , 7 . PR NT , 94 o n e of those potent but unwritten laws o f the during the last forty years, and a very limited F fickle goddess ashion , to wear muslin o r net study of this fascinating subject at once con c u aps, with lace borders, embellished with vinces us that, whatever pec liarities may

. e a re i t o be va o r ribbons app ar , they ce rta n revi ls E L TI N F F AS HI THE VO U O O OIV.

o f modifications of styles favoured by our more silver and gold tissue, every shape and o r o f or less remote ancestors . size that fancy could devise, the heart In 1 872 loomed upon us that ghastly the most exacting woman of fashion could Th e horror the chignon , which bore a faint resem desire . hair beneath was dressed like ” c o iflure s o f blance to the exaggerated the the frizzy mop illustrated , in plaited wedges 1 8th U - century . pon this monstrous edifice , flowing like a pendant hump half way down A c u rl o r with its seductive lexandra , were tilted the back , in a cascade of curls reaching f bonnets so minute that they were almost from the crown o the head to the waist . invisible in the mountains of hair that sur These were followed by gigantic rolls at the T o f t be rounded them . hese were replaced by back skull, Grecian knots, varying hats a l a like shallow plates while from the dimensions o f a door handle to o f o r for winter wear , others fur feathers were those of a cottage loaf, and latterly by that ’ “ ” introduced, with an animal s head fixed hideous monstrosity, the bun . Another o f o f o f firmly on the brow the wearer, and resem turn the wheel fashion has given us a fo x o f i bling nothing so much as the foot simple mode dressing the ha r, which is E warmer, with which ladies now keep their well adapted to the average nglish head, pedal extremities at a proper temperature and which is fully explained by the aecom when enjoying an airing. Besides these, panying sketch . It may be taken as a safe l o w there were pinched canoes turned keel upper rule, when the forehead is and face fla e d most, and flexible mushrooms , which pp small , that the hair may be drawn back with wa s and caught the wind till it necessary to advantage, but a long face is generally attach a string to the edge, to keep them improved by arranging the hair in soft curls o n snug and taut ; such hats as Leech has the forehead , and by waving it slightly at T immortalised in his sketches . urbans and the sides , which adds to the apparent width o f facsimiles the delicious but indigestible o f the countenance . But whatever style is - a fo r pork pie, Gainsborough , Rousby, and L ngtry in fashion, it is sure to have its admirers , hats, all named after styles worn by their has not Pope left on record o f ’ respective namesakes and hats made Fa ir e sse s a n s i e ria ra ce e n sn a re tr m mp l , ” o f n d be a u ra u a sin e h a i straw, leghorn , crinoline, lace, satin , and A ty d ws s by gl r . C H A P T E R I I L

G LOV E S

26 THE E L U TI N OF F AS HI IV VO O O .

’ o u r As a n a e d a m o u r h as hands , for to this day persons sworn in glove. g g it for cen t urie s law courts are compelled to remove their been esteemed, and in the days of ” w gloves . In the ancient Consecration Ser chivalry it a s usual for knights to wear ’ vice for the Bishops of the Church , a bless their ladies gloves in their helmets, as a ing was invoked on the gloves they wore . talisman of success in arms. In old records ” T o f hose of William Wykeham preserved we also meet with the term glove money, a sum paid to servants with which they were o f ! LO ! to provide this portion their livery , and V till quite recently it was the custom to pre C06 RY sent those who attended weddings and Q U! ! No r S COTS funerals with gloves as a souvenir .

Shakespeare often mentions gloves, and

some assert that he was the son of a glover . A pair which belonged to the dramatist is T o f still preserved . he y are brown leather ,

ornamented with a stamped pattern , and are

edged with gold fringe . They were presented by the actor Garrick to the Mayor and Cor p o ra tio n of Stratford -o u - Avon at the Shake s e aria n 1 8 p commemoration in 7 9 .

Ne w O at College, xford, are adorned with m the sacred monogra in red silk , and ecclesiastical gloves were often la vishly deco rated with embroidery and jewels , and were bequeathed by will with other valuables . Formerly judges were forbidden to wear ffi gloves when engaged in their o cial duties, n but are no lo ger bound by this restriction , and receive as a memorial o f a maiden assize

(that is, when there are no prisoners to be tried) a pair o f white kid gloves from the ff sheri , and during the time fairs were held their duration was marked by hanging a glove outside the town hall . As long as it remained there all persons in the place were was exempt from arrest, but directly it ! LOV! o e removed it was the signal for closing the Q UCCN e LlZ ABCTH

i wa s . fa r , and the privilege at an end Throwing down a glove was regarded as a Many royal gloves ha ve found a pla ce in ’ o l d . VI . s challenge to combat, and this curious private collections Henry glove has a E o f custom is still retained in the nglish gauntlet, is made tanned leather, and is

- coronation ceremony . Kings were also lined with deer skin, and the hawking glove V i invested with authority by the delivery of a of Henry III . s another interesting relic of TH E I N F HI E VOL U T O O FAS ON.

Th . e a bygone age King kept his hawks at romance, there is every reason to believe " h a th e Charing Cross , and in the inventories taken t t have sometimes been used with ‘ i y ’ o f wa s after this monarch s death we read three sinister motives, as a large trade done at ’ o f o n e payre hawkes gloves , with two lined with time in poisoned gloves , delicately h velvet and again at Hampton Court there perfumed , to conceal t eir deadly purpose . “ ’ ” o f were seven hawkes gloves embroidered . Some gloves which were the property Th e f hawking glove, of which an illustration James I . are o brown leather lined with white, A is given , may be seen in the shmolean and the seams are sewn with silk and gold f a si l Th . e Museum It is o m p e thread . embroidery in character, evidently is in gold and silver thread o n tended for use rather than crimson satin , with a

o f . T ornament . lining red silk hey Gloves were not gene are finished with gold rally worn by women till . fringe, and have three loops o f after the Reformation ; but at the side . A glove during the sixteenth and chaste design, worn by ff seventeenth centuries their Charles I . on the sca old use gradually extended to is made of cream - coloured’ e m bro id the middle classes . Queen kid , the gauntlet Elizabeth ’s glove may be ered with silver and edged seen at the Bodleian with silver fringe . Queen O Library, xford , and is Anne, on the other hand , believed to have been worn wore highly decorated o f V at the visit the irgin gloves of Suede kid , with Queen to the U niversity in raised silken flowers o n the 1 66 5 . It is fringed with gauntlet , and three loops

- gold , and is nearly half a of rose coloured ribbon , to yard in length it is made allow them to be slipped T of white leather worked over the hands . hey are with gold thread , and the further enriched with gold ff cu is lined with drab silk . lace and embroidery . A ’ Mary Queen o f Scots yellow Suede Court glove f IV glove in the Saf ron of George . gives the Walden Museum is of impression that the first ff a o f E light bu leather, wrought gentlem n urope had 6 LOV! o r: with silver wire and silk of fiM S a fist o f tremendous J C I. ff di erent colours . It is proportions. Her Majesty kid lined with crimson satin , edged with gold Queen Victoria generally wears black lace enriched with sequins, and the opening gloves, except for Court functions, when is connected with bands of satin finished white glacé kid gloves are invariably T . with lace insertion his glove was presented used . on the morning of her execution to a member Her Royal Highness the Princess o f Wales o f - the Dayrell family, who was in attendance has a delicately formed hand with tapering

- F a f. at otheringay Castle . In happier days fingers, and her size is six and hal Her Queen Mary gave an exquisitely embroidered Royal Highness adapts her gloves to the ' ’ l bze n pair of g oves, with a design in which angels occasion and toilette, and is always heads and flowers appear—her own work—to her husband, Lord Darnley and the gloves Th e first Napoleon gave an impetus to generally of the Tudor period were more this branch o f industry by insisting o n ’ ornate than those which adorn beauty s hands gentlemen wearing gloves on State occasions o n the eve of the nineteenth century, and and at festive gatherings, and the fashion o f E Wi were , in most cases, wrought with the needle . spread through the countries urope th

Though the history o f gloves savours of astonishing rapidity.

C HAPTE R l V

C R O O O A R U I U S F T G E .

I ! THE E VOL U TI ON OF FAS H OIV. 3

C HAPTE R I V .

- C U R I O U S F O OT G E A R .

’ f i e r is so u s e i h . o f A ta ste u l sl pp my l d l g t wh o had fallen under the sway Cupid), ’ “ ' n : a z za F . this energetic lady engaged the services o f a E - E W LL SHAP D foot has been con neighbouring friar, and cut the gordian knot f side re d from the earliest times one o by marrying her faithful adorer . N ’ k ature s indest gifts, and sober When primitive man first conceived the history and fairy lore have combined to give idea o f producing some contrivance to o r us many interesting particulars respecting defend himself from cold , sharp stones , f Th e f ff o . o this portion the human anatomy the heated sand the desert , his first e ort similarity o f the foot - gear o f both sexes was to fasten to the bottom o f his feet soles f o r makes it impossible to treat the matter o bark , wood , raw hide, which were separately, and as the subject is practically followed , in due course , by more elaborately

o f . T inexhaustible, I propose only to illustrate the made sandals tanned leather hese most curious and notable examples . were fastened in various ways, but g enerally On e o f o n e of the finest collection shoes in the by two leathern straps, round the instep , world is that at the Cluny Museum , Paris , while the other passed between the first and F r E formed by the eminent rench eng aver, the late second toes . gyptian sandals were some T Jules Jacquemart. his was enlarged by the times prolonged to a sharp point, and occa f ch i r f o r a o v tt e . o purch se of the collection Baron S sio n al l y were made papyrus , some Th e Queen o f Italy has also acquired a large flexible material ; but the commoner kinds

o f o f o r . O number historical boots and shoes ; and were, as a rule , wood leather ften f o f to Mr . Joseph Box, another enthusiastic they had painted upon them the e figy the ’ fo r wh o wa s collector, I am indebted some of the wearer s enemy, thus literally trodden drawings used for illustrating this article. underfoot . Owing to their proximity, the a o f E A qu int story is told in a rare book , habits and customs the gyptians and “ Th Th e e . entitled Delightful, Princely, and Jews were in many respects similar E ntertaining History o f the Gentle Craft of same Hebrew word denotes both a sandal C o f o rispin , the Patron Saint Shoe Makers , and a shoe and it has been c ncluded that ” ris ia n u and his Brother C p s. According to shoes were probably confined to the upper t wo o f this authority, they were the sons the classes, while sandals were used by those o f w King Logia (Kent), and lived in the city compelled to work ; and slaves ent bare o f Du ro ve n u m o r , otherwise Canterbury, the foot . o f Court of the Kentish men . Having It will be seen from the sketches e ve n t u embraced Christianity, during the Roman Grecian and Roman shoes that they o f invasion , they were in considerable danger, ally became an elaborate article dress, ’ and at their mother s instigation, to conceal bound to the foot and leg with lacings , and Th e ff . their identity, adopted humble attire, and ornamented in di erent ways senators o f devoted themselves to the modest craft o f had boots of black leather, with a crest f shoemaking, under the auspices o f a shoe gold o r silver o n the top o the foot ; and a t F maker aversham , to whom they bound soldiers wore iron shoes , heavily spiked, in a fo r fo r themselves seven years . This industrious similar manner to those n o w used cricket , citizen appears to have received the appoint so as to give the wearers a better hold when ment o f shoemaker to the Court o f Maxi scaling walls in the attack o f fortified places. minus, whose daughter Ursula fell in love An iron boot was also used for torturing with Crispin . After removing the usual Christians . As an instance of the luxury so obstacles (which , even in those remote times, characteristic of the age, it is stated that seem to have obstructed the paths of those Roman soldiers often had the spikes o n their THE E LU TI N F S VO O O FA HI ON.

f shoes made o f gold . According to the testi for we find the courtiers o the day improved a o f f mony Of Seneca , Julius C esar wore shoes upon the prevailing mode by stu fing their o f the precious metal, a fashion emulated by shoes , and twisting them into the shape a ’ Cardinal Wolsey many centuries after ; and ram s horn the point o f which wa s attached h wa s o f . T e Severus fond covering his with jewels, to the knee by a chain common to attract the attention o f the people as he people were permitted by law to wear the ” Th e E k - a - . e s o n walked through the streets mperor py their shoon half foot, rich

Aurelian forbade citizens a foot , t o men wear red , while nobles and w o r yello , white, princes had theirs re t wo - - a - green shoes , and half feet s er v i n g t h e s e long . colours for wo D u r i n g t h e men ; and diff er Plantagenet period ent shapes were it wa s usual to wear pre c ribe d by legal two shoes o f dif fe re n t enactments to be colours , and worn fo r the easy they were often distinguishment o f slashed o n the various trades and upper surface , to professions . In show the bright the reign of Domi h o s e b e n ea th . T r tian , the stalls of hese were supe se de d shoemakers in the by a large, public streets were p a d d ed s h oe , so numerous as to gored over the n ec es s it ate a n foot with coloured re edict for their material , a fashion moval . i m p o rt e d fr o m u r a n ce s e xa O own Italy, and g tors , the Anglo gerated as much

Saxons, wore shoes as the pointed

- f . o raw cow hide , shoe had been reaching to the Buskins were high o f ankles ; and the boots , made o u t hair turned splendid tissue, T ward. hose used and worn by the b y ecclesiastics nobility and gen were a kind of try during the sandal fastened M i d dle Ag e s , with bands of generally o n occa o f leather round the sions State . Th e No r- T instep . j hey were also man half boots largely adopted by - E O E E E I S . o f had soles of wood, FOOT G AR F DIFF R NT P R OD players tragedy. while the uppers They covered the

o f . T . Th e were a more pliable material hose knee, and were tied just below sock , o f o n worn by the Crusaders were chain , and or low shoe, the other hand , was the V o f later o f plate armour . ery pointed toes emblem comedy . On e o f were in fashion during the Middle Ages, and the greatest follies ever introduced these were carried to such a ridiculous length was the chopine, a sort of stilt which increased T that the dignitaries of the Church considered the height of the wearer . hese were first V it necessary to preach against the practice . used in Persia, but appeared in enice about n o t wa s However , this did result in its abolition , the Sixteenth Century, and their use

34 THE E VOL U TI ON OF F AS HI ON.

those used by the unfortunate Mary Queen below the knee, either in close rolls , like the o f n o w f - o r Scots ( in the possession o Sir James hay bands of the modern ostler , crossing o f - n o w William Drummond), which are kid , em each other sandal wise , as they are worn o f E broidered with coloured silks ; the toes are in some districts urope , particularly in

’

E E Z ES 1 . Q U E N LI ABETH S BOOTS . S HOE OF MARY QU EEN S HOE WORN BY CHARL S OF COTS .

r somewhat squarer, but in other respects e semble those in fashion at the present day .

o f - In speaking curious foot gear, the under covering o f the leg and pedal extremities must be briefly referred to. Ancient works

. CIIOPINE B S I E E S E E THE A ; , BU K N ; C, P AK D HO ; MILITARY BOOTS AND S PURS US D AT

D S E . E S E , TUDOR HO BATTL OF NA BY.

o n a . costume frequently mention hose, socks, Russia and Sp in Cloth stockings, em and stockings , which were made of woollen broidered with gold, are among the

o r III. cloth , leather, linen, and held in place by articles of dress ordered by Henry cross -bands of the material twisted to a little for his sister Isabel ; and of a woman N THE E VOL U TI ON OF FAS HI O .

“ T ” E mentioned in the Canterbury ales, it is stockings, made in ngland ; and from that “ said : Hire hosen weren o f fine scarlet time she wore no others, in the laudable t e e d redde, ful streite y y (tied), and shoon desire to encourage their home manufacture ” ’ o wn . Th e full moist (supple) and newe . by her example Queen s patron 1 VII . a e In the reign of Henry clocks on g , and the invention , in 5 99, of a weaving stockings are dis frame, by William o f c e rn ibl e and the Lee , Master F Poet La ureate of Arts, and ellow ’ de scrib o f St . John s Col this king, ing the dress of lege , Cambridge, the hostess o f an gave a great impe tus to the stocking inn , gives an indi cation o f how trade, which has boots were clean been carried on ed with considerable “ success ever since, Sh e h o bbl e s as sh e e s particularly in the go , With h e r bl an ke t Midland counties h o se f E , o ngland . He r sh o o n e sm e a r ” Spurs can be a l ow e d with t l . traced back to the It is supposed Anglo- Saxon p e rio d that hose or stock , which is ings of silk were quite far enough unknown in this for this purpose. country before the They had no row -1 6th middle of the els , but were made century . A pair with a simple o f a Spanish silk point like goad, hose was present and were fastened ed by Sir Thomas w i t h l e at h e r s . Gresham to Ed Early in the 1 5 th

VI . w ar d , h is century spurs were father never hav screwe d o n to a ing worn any but steel shoe, instead those made o f of being fastened T cloth . In the reign with straps. hey of good Queen were long in the

Bess , nether socks neck, a n d t h e o r stockings were spikes of the row a rnse o f of silk , j y, els formidable o r F worsted crewel , dimensions . rom the finest yarn , a sketch o f a spur o r thread , cloth , worn at the Battle o f N and were all of aseby, in the “ f o I . colours , cunning — reign Charles , l c um E S HOEs A B c D E E F E S y knit and ANCI NT , , , , , GYPTIAN ; , P R IAN ; it will be seen that, o usl G H EE I K L A y indented in , , GR K , J, , , PHRYGIAN ND DACIAN . as progress was m every point, with ade in armour u e rks wa s q , clocks, open seams, and everything and military gear, considerable attention f ’ else accordingly . Planché states, in the paid to this portion o the soldier s outfit o f E third year lizabeth , Mistress Montague, indeed, it was more elaborate in design than is ’ - F the Queen s silk woman , presented Her now considered necessary . rom a very early f Majesty with a pair o black silk knit period spurs have been used by both sexes . D 2 THE E VOL U TI ON OF FAS HI ON.

A curious custom wa s in vogue at the Orientals indicate reverence by uncovering o f fo r o n beginning the present century ladies to their feet, and do so all occasions when

o wn T . make their indoor shoes . his fashion Western nations would remove their hats wa s wh o T inaugurated by Queen Charlotte , heir heads, being generally shaven , are wa s u particularly deft in handling a beautif l always covered , and are surmounted by a ’ o f - w set shoemaker s tools , mounted in silver, head dress hich could not be replaced with T fo r with ivory handles . radesmen bitterly com out considerable trouble ; while the feet

plained that worktables in boudoirs were they have loose slippers, with a single sole , strewn with the implements o f their c raft ; made o f coloured morocco o r embroidered f F w o f. e but, like many other feminine fads , it soon silk, which are easily thrown things

passed away. About this period clogs were inspire them with greater disgust than for

. T o f . also used hese were made wood , and anyone to enter their rooms with shoes on served as a protection t o shoes o u t o f They think such conduct an insult to them t o doors . A similar contrivance, with the addi selves and a pollution their apartment ; t o e - o f tion Of an iron ring , leather strap and cap, and it is considered the height irreverence t o o r is still sometimes worn by farm servants, and enter a church , mosque, a temple with E n f o u t . . o is called a patten Another form clog, removing them ven classical heathe Th e consisting o f a laced leather boot with wooden ism affords instances o f this usage .

sole, is extensively used by the working Roman women were obliged to go barefoot N o f E T o f V classes in the orth ngland, and the in the emple esta ; the same rule o f sabot, a wooden shoe, is the ordinary foot existed in that Diana, at Crete and those o f o n wh o T gear peasants the Continent . prayed in the emple of Jupiter also

It is well known that Chinese women o f followed this custom . E high rank deform their feet by compressing In the ast, the public removal of the o r them in such a manner that it is afterwards sandal shoe, and the giving it to another, ’ almost impossible to walk ; and in Davis accompanied by certain words, signifies a interesting description o f the Empire o f transfer o f authority o r relinquishing posses o f China, he relates that whenever a judge of sion . We are told in the case Ruth and

unusual integrity resigns his post, the people Boaz, when her kinsman gave up his right to t o o f accompany him from his home the gates marry her, in favour her second husband , f “ ” o ff ff . the city, where his boots are drawn o he drew o his shoe Among the

with great ceremony , and are afterwards pre Bedouins , when a man permits his cousin to in o f . o r served the Hall Justice marry another, divorces his runaway “ wa s In Japan a peculiar wooden sandal, having spouse, he generally says , She my A fo r o ff . a separate compartment the great toe, is slipper ; I have cast her gain , when o f a in common use . Straw slippers are also shoes are left at the door an ap rtment, o n o r worn , and a traveller starting a journey they denote that the master mistress is o n a n will strap a supply his back , so that he engaged , d even a husband does not ’ o f T may have new shoes in case need . hey venture into a wife s room while he sees h n . T e are lefts and rights , and only cost a halfpenny the slippers o the threshold idea n e o u r the pair. Here o never finds those de fo r is not altogether unknown among m it ie s o f it the feet so common in China, and selves , as is expressed in the homely “ ’ wn o u r o . even in country A graceful carri proverb, to stand in another man s shoes a e r g depends so much upon the shoes worn . o when we speak of coming into a Heavy and stiff ones oblige the wearer to future inheritance as stepping into a dead ’ ” plant the foot solidly at every step . If the man s shoe . Also in flinging the slipper t h e toes are very pointed it is at sacrifice of after a departing bride, signifying that to elasticity, and if the heels are o high the the father transfers his authority to the muscles in the ball of the foot are little used. husband . CHAPTE R V

BR DA CO T I L S U M E .

THE E V L I F O U T ON O F AS HI ON . 39

C HAPTE R V .

BR DA CO T I L S U M E .

I o f ER TA N . curious customs have been dower in case divorce Rich shawls, fine O associated with the rdinance of dresses , personal ornaments, money, and a

Marriage from a very early period , and complete outfit of domestic utensils are w among others may be mentioned the union al ays included in such a gift . Among o f nea r relations in barbaric or semi- barbaric some o f the Arab tribes the dower received o f o n “ tribes the providing husbands and wives such occasions, and called the five ” fo r ( o f a family according to seniority so that articles, consists a carpet, a silver nose the younger members had to possess their ring, a silver neck chain , silver bracelets, and souls in patience till the elder ones were dis a camel bag . Matrimonial overtures are posed o f) the paying o f an equivalent for generally made by the parents of the con ’ the bride s services to her father in money o r kind ; and festivities often lasting over several days to celebrate the Th e nuptials . Rabbins acquaint us with the fact that seven days’ feasting was an indis pensable obligation o n all married men , and that the bride was n o t consigned to her hus band until after the days o f feasting had T expired . hey were generally spent in the ’ house o f the woman s father, after which she was conducted in great state to her husband ’s home. When the bride was a widow, the festi vities only lasted for MARRIAGE PROCES S ION OF A BRIDE IN LEBANON . three days . Customs E n in the ast are perpetuated from o e genera tracting parties in Persia, but after all has we - tion to another, and now find among the been concluded , the bride elect has nomi o f inhabitants the Orient the same mode o f nally the power, though it is seldom exercised, l o f life as was adopted by the patriarchs of o d. expressing her dissent before the connec

Th e description of the wooing o f Isaac and tion receives its final sanction . Among

Rebekah , for example, so graphically told in many Bedouin tribes the woman is not ff ff Genesis, di ers in few respects from that o f su ered to know until the betrothing cere a young couple o f the same rank in the monies announce it to her who is to be her present day. Handsome presents, consisting husband, and then it is too late to negative w o f &c. a jewels, apparel , , are presented to the the contr ct, but she is permitted to withdra

‘ ’ o nd r a n d h r f a e n th e da r w man a h e family, : form part of e rom her husb nd s t t y afte her H F F AS I N . 40 THE E VOL U TI ON O O

n V i marriage, and to return to her father ; i arious materials are employed in the r Is which case she is formally divorced, and manufacture ; gold is necessarily rare , silver n henceforward regarded as a widow. O the less so, while others are composed of amber, - — o f . coral , mother pearl , and beads

We are told, when Rebekah approached her future home and saw a man walking in

the distance, she evinced a curiosity, natural a under the circumst nces, and inquired about o n a him ; and discovering that it was Isa c, “ ” she took a veil and covered herself. It is still almost universal in the East for a

woman , whose face is not concealed on other

occasions, to envelop her head and body in an ample veil before she is conducted to her

in dis e n s o husband , and it is considered an p o f h able part the bridal costume . T e details of the home coming are modified by the local usages and religions of the different

countries . In Syria, Persia, and India, the m : bridegroo , in person , brings home the bride in some other countries this duty devolves o n

a near relative, and he remains at home to n F receive the lady o her arrival . rom various

sources, but particularly from indications in

Scripture, we may gather that the Jews

employed either of these methods , according

. E to circumstances Again , in gypt the bridegroom goes to the Mosque when his ANCI ENT EGYPTIAN BRIDAL COSTUM E bride is expected, and returns home in pro o f E value her ornaments the astern bride cession after she has arrived . In Western bases her claim to consideration and though Asia the procession usually walks, if the the Arab , as a rule, cares little for his own dress, he decks his wife as richly as possible, that honour may be reflected upon himself and his Th circumstances . e leg ornaments and bracelets are often enormously thick , and have no fast e n in s g , but open and compress by their o wn u n elasticity. It is not usual to wear several o n the same arm , reaching T to the elbow. hey form a woman ’s sole n o t wealth , and are treasured up fo r special occasions , as is usual among Western nations, but are used as part o f E V I E E S E I E F S T S R R . of the daily costume. TI I AT AN A T N MAR AG

42 THE E VOL U TI ON OF FAS HI OIV.

Th e m e Romans . infor ation which Gemara the reverse side of the circle b ing formed by T gives on this subject is briefly that the crown two clasped hands. his is a very common o r o f the bridegroom was of gold and silver, shape, and is shown in the illustration of the C E - E a 1 0 6 else a haplet of roses, myrtle, or olives, and nglish wedding ring , d ted 7 , where

A EWI S WED I E I E B DE A c I 1 TH , J H DING R NG, G RMAN , 7TH C NTURY ; , MO RN ITALI N ; , ITAL AN, 4 E D VE E 1 6TH CE E E S 1 0 6 F E B C NTURY ; , N TIAN , NTURY ; , NGLI H , 7 , NGLI S H RONZE E I TH E B TROTHAL RING, 7 C NTURY .

’ that the bride s crown was of the precious white enamel fingers support a rose dia mond .

T Th e - metals . here is also some mention of a modern Italian peasant wedding ring B o f o f crown made salt and sulphur, worn by the is gold in raised bosses, while C is o f F o n bridegroom , the salt transparent as crystal , silver ; , bearing initials vezet, is of the figures being represented bronze . A is a handsome

- thereon in sulphur . Crowns Jewish wedding ring, bearing play an important part in the the ark , and D also has a o f nuptial ceremonies the Hebrew inscription . Greek Church ; they are also Th e gimmal betrothal ring still used by Scandinavian was formerly a favourite pat o f brides . tern , and consisted three Th e ring in former days circlets attached to a spring or did not occupy the prominent pivot, and could be closed so n o w o n e position it does , but was as to appear like solid given , with other presents , to ring . It was customary to mark the completion of the break these asunder at the contract . Its form is a symbol betrothal , the man and woman of eternity, and signifies the taking the upper and lower intention of both parties to ones , and the witness the o f keep the solemn covenant intermediate ring. When the o r which it is a pledge, , as the marriage took place these “ ” Saxons called it , a wed , were joined together and used from which we derive the at the ceremony. During the Th e term wedding . Jews sixteenth and seventeenth cen have a law wh ich proclaims t u rie s it wa s a common prae that the nuptial ring shall be tice to engrave these emblems f ff o certain value, and must not of a ection with some appro

o r . ria t e be obtained by credit gift p motto . It was from

E S E R E . Formerly they were o f large AN A T N BRID Pagan Rome that European size and elaborate workman nations derive the wedding

ship, but now the ordinary plain gold hoop ring, as they were used in their betrothals n is used . long before there is a y trace o f them else f A wedding ring o the Shakespearian era where . a has a portrait of Lucretia holding the dagger, In describing the brid l costumes of F F H THE E VOL U TI ON O AS I OIV. 43

ff a di erent nations, it should be distinctly hold gods of both families are ssembled borne in mind that a large majority of the before an al tar decked with flowers and ff N upper classes wear on such occasions the covered with o erings . ear stands a large a traditional white satin and orange blossoms table, with a dwarf ced r ; it also holds E ve with which we are all familiar . Many, how the Japanese Adam and , and the mystic Th e ever, prefer the picturesque national costume turtle and stork . two special attendants o f a n d al associated with the land their birth , and it of bride bridegroom are c led butterflies, a has been my principal object, in selecting the and in their dress and colouring riv l these r illust ations, to make them as typical as beautiful insects, which in this country are Th e possible . the symbol of conjugal felicity. most Th e Greek marriage service is full of solemn part o f the marriage ceremony is

- o f . symbol , and the sketch gives a good the scene the two mouthed vase At a n f o f . o e i idea the bridal costume signal , butterfly lls the Th e ff bridesmaid is attired in a vase, and the other o ers it to

gold embroidered jacket, a the kneeling couple, the hus o f skirt brilliant colouring, and band drinking first, and after — r T the crimson fez the usual wa ds the wife. his draught

- head gear of a Greek maiden . signifies that henceforward She is depicted scattering they are to partake equally of a n corn , an ancient rite always the bitters d sweets of the

performed at the conclusion coming years . Rice is thrown

of the ceremony. As she from either side, so as to

gracefully sways backwards mingle, and the wicks of two

and forwards, to the aecom candles are placed together, a n im e nt p of the jingling coins, to symbolize the joining of

which do double service as body and soul . Th dowry and trimming, it is a e marriage processions pose and dress at once graceful o f other Oriental nations F and free. ormerly a wedding have already been referred to, garment was often passed and in India it is custom a ry down from mother to da ugh to perform the ceremony

ter, and such an example is under a species o f canopy given in the soft yellow silk richly ornamented and lighted Th e robe , lined with white and by lamps . bride wears , enriched with elaborate em in addition to the native cos

. T E E broidery iny stars in deli GARM NT FORM RLY WORN tume, a curious veil composed o f B E E B DES o f o f cate shades red, blue, and Y GR K RI . strings gold beads and tas re e n b ' g , divided y black lines (From S ou l /z Km sz ngt on M u se u m ) sels. In Hindu marriages the form the design and proclaim sacred fire o r om a n (which is o f T th ro win u o n it the industry and skill the worker . hese c o n sta n tl yre ne we d by g p scented a robes, however, have not been used in oils, sandalwood , incense, and other romatic

Greece since the beginning of the seventeenth perfumes) is a prominent feature, and the

century . union o f a couple is consecrated by sprink f ff In Japan, the beautiful land o the lily and ling a handful o f sa ron , mixed with rice C F n . hrysanthemum , the bride usually takes little flour, o their shoulders inally, the more to her husband ’s home than her trous husband presents his wife with a little golden t a l ee seau , which is ample enough , as a rule, to image called , a substitute for the ’ s a s atisfy even a woman s passion for dress . wedding ring, and worn by Indian women Th e a n d . nuptials take place in the evening, their symbol of matrimony V the bride is garbed in irgin white robes, A missionary thus describes a Buddhist —“ h . T figured with a lozenge design hese gar marriage T e bride, loaded with jewel a ments are the gift of the bridegroom , and in lery, accompanied by women richly ttired,

them she passes from the home of her girl entered the room , and sat down with the

h o f h r a T h e . o f ood to that e husb nd. h e house bridegroom o n t floor A number THE E L U TI H 44 VO ON OF F AS I OIV.

candles were then lighted , and the company member of the family who can contract a saluted and congratulated the happy couple, marriage in the legal sense as we understand and expressed their kind wishes by blowing it, but all his brothers are accepted by the

o f . smoke towards them , while a band string wife as inferior or subordinate husbands Two instruments discoursed sweet music. By this means they are kept well under the o f t cushions were placed before the bridegroom , control the superior husband , whom hey F ” o n which a sword was laid, and food was regard as the Big ather, and , as a matter N also near them . ext the hands of each of form , any children who may be born are were bound together, then the two to each accepted by him . T T other with silken threads . his act was hus the whole family are attached to the performed by the nearest relative present, soil, and seem to work in concord , and the ” and completed the ceremony. Brief, women have the satisfaction of knowing that o f N indeed , are the forms marriage indulged in the average course of ature they can f E f o . o in by the people Borneo ach the never become widows, and that there will contracting parties chews a betel nut ; an always be someone to work for them and ‘ elderly woman mutters some sort o f incanta their o flsprin g. It is the custom for the men

’ E I HINDU BRID EGROOM S PROC SS ON .

o f f tion , and brings the heads bride and and women o a village to assemble when a bridegroom in close contact, after which they bride enters her home with her husbands, o f are declared man and wife, and are no longer and for each them to present her with three n h Th T o e . T e . e regarded as twain , but flesh rupees ibetan wife, far from spending o f o n Cherokee form marriage is perhaps the these gifts personal adornment, looks h . T e most simple two join hands over a ahead, contemplating possible contingencies, o f running stream , emblematic the wish that and immediately hires a field , the produce of m their future lives, hopes, and aspirations, which is her own , and accumulates fro flo w o n should in the same channel . A year to year, so that she may not be portion ” a peculiar custom of the Lasc rs is the putting less should she desire a divorce. o n Th e o f ff of a ring the great toe when they marry . African tribes, course, di er mate h . w o T ria l l Mrs Bishop, has explored ibet and y in their marriage customs, but some o f o f o f studied the habits and customs the people, form exchange for the services the o n informs us that polyandry is favoured by the woman are insisted , and often take the f Th f f ’ women o that country . e heir of the shape o a present o cattle to the bride s a n On t h C d . l and eldest son appears to be the only father e We st oast, in the neigh THE E V L U TI ON OF F A HI O S ON. 45 bo u rh o o d sl a e do m u Of o f F of Gaboon, where v is am sing account the toilet a ernandian “ : recognised , there is an understanding that bridegroom Outside a small hut, belonging o f a wife may be purchased for a slave bundle , to the mother the bride expectant, I soon a 6 E valued at bout £ in nglish money, and discovered the happy bridegroom undergoing ’ his toilet at the hands o f his future wi fe s o f T sh ibbu sister . A profusion strings being

fastened round his body, as well as his legs

and arms , the anointing lady, having a short

black pipe in her mouth , proceeded to rub

him over with Tola pomade . He seemed not altogether joyous at the anti c ipation o f

his approaching happiness, but turned a sulky gaze n o w and then on a piece o f yam which ’ he held in his hand, and which had a parrot s n T red feather fixed o its convex side . his ‘ ’ Nt sh o ba wa s called , and is regarded as a protection against evil influences o n the Th e important day . bride was borne down by the weight of rings and wreaths and f T h i u T o girdles o s bb . ola p matum gave her

the appearance of an exhumed mummy, save

her face, which was all white ; not from VE I DE o f fo r IL OF H NDU BRI . excess modesty, the negro race are

reported to blush blue, but from being there appears to be no sliding scale as to smea red over with a white paste , the emblem ” t . youth , beau y, form , or degree A bundle of purity . What a hideous substitute for o f o f contains specimens every article sold by a the classical wreath orange blossoms, and g e n e ral s to r e k Th e keeper. most importa nt features o f a slave bundle N are a eptune, or brass pan used fo r making salt, which is a current article o f c o m merce, and a piece o f native cloth , manufactured by these people for dress purposes , from a species o f palm which grows o n the river banks in great l uxuri ance . Both sexes anoint themselves with palm o il and su b other greasy HINDU MARRIAGE CERE MONY. stances, and no greater compliment can be paid to an African what a contrast must be offered when the “ ” u belle than to say she looks fat and shining . cosmetic peels o ff and displays the d sky i a Mr. Hutch nson , in his interesting work , skin upon which it is l id “ ” Te n E a l a w Years in thiopi , gives a quaint and According to Russian , no man can H I N OF F AS HI O 46 T E E VOL U T O IV.

o f l marry before he is eighteen years age, or a handkerchief, and a little appet of linen rests o n woman before she is sixteen nor after he is the forehead , and is considered an o f eighty, and she is sixty. Priests are permitted inevitable symbol marriage. Marriages to marry once . Secret marriages without are performed after banns, and much of the witnesses are regarded as invalid , and both finery used by the lower classes is hired for the occasion ; and the crowns used in the Russian ceremony are generally the property o f F the Church . ormerly they were worn

for a week , but this practice has been discon

fln u e d. There are three distinct periods in the life o f N o n e a orwegian woman, and each has

marked characteristics , particularly as regards

dress . During girlhood, up to the time of

confirmation , a solemn occasion for which u a there is m ch preparatory tr ining, girls do

usually go from home to work,

A RUSS IAN BRIDE. bride and bridegroom must be baptized r persons. If a Russian takes a foreigner fo a wife, she must bind herself in writing to bring up any children she may have in the

- Greco Russian faith . According to an ancient custom the bridegroom presents his bride with the costume and jewellery worn at Th e w the marriage . do ry comes from her family, and consists of a complete wardrobe, f o f silver, linen , and household urniture all Th e a a kinds . h ir of an unm rried woman W E E S E B E NOR GIAN P A ANT BRID AND RID GROOM . of the pea sant class in Russia is dressed w in a single plait hanging loose upon their o n living . Among the poorer classes the shoulders, and tied with ribbon . this ceremony takes place when they are r a T After mar i ge it is arranged in two about fifteen . heir petticoats are short and a a braids coiled round the head, covered with their h ir is arr nged in two long plaits . ca d o r a p tied behin , with a cotton or silk After confirmation they are supposed to TH HI E E VOL U TI ON OF F AS ON.

d regar life from its more serious aspect, and is much feasting and merrymaking among to engage themselves with various duties, the friends of bride and bridegroom. Th e i a re according to their station . th rd stage, Gipsies , as a rule, married at a very

r . of course, is married life, and it should be ea ly age A girl is generally betrothed at

stated that neither men fourteen , and becomes a wife two years Th e nor women can enter later. marriage ceremony is performed upon the holy contract by a priest wearing a ram ’s horn as a sign of f unless they can bring o fice , and , as becomes a nomadic race, the c o n firm a —fire proof of their four elements , air, earth , and water Th e tion, and can show ample take a prominent position horn is the f evidence of su ficient symbol o f authority, and is often made use ’ means to provide for a of in Scripture . So much were rams horns h household . T e marri esteemed by the Israelites that their priests a ge is preceded by a and Levites used them as trumpets in the

betrothal ceremony, when taking o f Jericho ; and modern Jews when the young couple go to they confess their sins announce the cere ’ the church , accompanied mony by blowing a ram s horn . In ancient ORNAM ENT WORN E f by their friends, and ex gypt and other parts of A rica , Jupiter BY S WED S I H change rings o f plain gold Ammon was worshipped under the figure o f P E ASANT BRID E o n e and presents of jewellery a ram , and to this deity of these animals m and apparel , which must be worn on the was sacrificed annually . It see s to have wedding day . At her marriage the peasant been an emblem o f power from the remotest bride wears the crown . It has a rim of ages . It would therefore appear that the brass to fit the head , and the upper portion is of silver and gold, sometimes embellished with precious stones.

Such crowns are generally heirlooms , and it is not uncommon for all the brides of o n e family for centuries to wear the same adornment for the head . A very usual dress on such an occasion is a plain skirt o f some woollen mate a rial , with bodice and frill sleeves o f snowy linen , a corselet of red and green , ornamented with bands and buckles, and a white apron trimmed

- with embroidery . A silver gilt breast ornament is worn by Swedish brides . Th e band is wrought with bosses, and depending from it are small beaten discs, and a medallion bear ing the sacred initials I . H . S . Th e bridegroom ’s hat in the illustra wa s tion probably an heirloom too, from its shape and fashion. He wears a red waistcoat cut short and a fastened with br ss buttons, and a loose cloth coat ornamented with embroidered Th revers . e black small clothes show - l e o n to advantage a well shaped g, and the feet are low shoes . U sually the festivities in connection with a peasant wedding in Norway are kept up for ’ a nd A BR IDE GR OOM s E AT E three days, during the time there TOIL T F RNANDO PO. 48 THE E VOL U TI ON OF FAS HI ON.

’ practice o f the gipsy priest wearing a ram s the earlier portion o f the present century horn suspended from a string round his it wa s a common custom fo r o n e t o a cc o m neck at a marriage is derived from it h e pany the bridal couple o n their honey wa s highest antiquity, and undoubtedly points to moon ; and it also her duty to prepare f “ the Oriental origin o the gipsy race . and present the benediction posset , which ” Various expedients have been resorted to by is referred to by Herrick In He spe ride s z diffe re n t rul e rs Ofsparsely A sh o rt swe e t pra ye r sh a ll be sa i populated kingdoms to d , An d n o w th e po sse t sh a ll be encourage men to enter ma d e the married state . In With cre a m o f lilie s n o t o fkin e ancient Rome the l a w An d m a id e n blu sh fo r spice d ” forbade that a bachelor win e . should inherit a n yl e ga cy Th e fashion o f brides W a hatever, and in Spart , wearing spotless white is under the rule o f Lyc u r a comparatively modern

n o t o n e . F o f gus , they were per rom accounts m it te d to have a part in bridal gowns in bygone the government, nor times, we find rich bro might they occupy any cades, golden tissues, and civil o r military post. coloured silks were em They were excluded ployed for this purpose ; from participation in and at the present day public festivals, except white is considered only o n certain fixed occa appropriate to the virgin , a n d sions, and then the is absolutely dis women had the right to pe n se d with by those wh o lead them to the altars, women have been e where they were b aten married before. with rods to the sound Of modern marriage E o f scornful songs . As customs in ngland late as the reign o f there is no occasion to E E AN NGLI S H BRID . William and Mary, speak , for what woman widowers were taxed in is there among us who E — ngland at the following rates Dukes , has not made an exhaustive and complete 1 2 1 0 s o f ? ; lower peers a smaller sum , and study this vital matter It may, however, o n e commoners shilling each , if they comfort those who are beginning to wonder elected to remain in a state o f single if marriage and giving in marriage is going o u t o f blessedness . Widows also, especially those fashion , to know that during the first o f e o f 1 8 high degree and fortune , were ncouraged quarter 94 , persons were joined o f to dip again in the matrimonial lottery, and together in the British Islands , an increase 1 8 children were betrothed at a very tender per cent . over the first three months of the 1 8 age. previous year , 93, and 9 per cent . over the Bridesmaids in Anglo - Saxon times attended mean rate for the same quarter for the pre

o n . F the bride, and performed specified duties , ceding ten years igures are incontro i particularly in the festivit es which usually vertible facts, so our ears need no longer be E c ry followed o n such occasio ns. ven during assailed by the bitter o f “ E S I E DARK T SP N ST RDOM .

H N THE E VOL U TI ON OF FAS I O .

C PTE R HA V I .

M O U R N I N G

Th e air is fu o f fa re e s to th e in fo r ll w ll dy g men , so common at funerals a few years ” — “ An d m o u nin fo r th e e a Lo n e l l ow . r g d d . gf I n r o f ago . A Histo y Mourning, by ‘ HE o f I signs mourning in ancient times Richard Davey, from which many interesting o n were by no means confined to the facts this subject may be gathered , we f . F o E apparel asting, laceration the learn that the gyptians , over three thousand a o fo r flesh , throwing dust on the head , and shaving years g , selected yellow as the colour

I E E S E E ANC NT J WI H FUN RAL PROC S S ION .

r Th e the hair, were outwa d and visible signs of mourning garments . Greeks chose o f -a grief, accompanied by piercing cries the black as the most appropriate fashion Th e o f most heartrending description . It was also followed by the Romans . women a o f custom ry to abstain from ornaments , to Rome had robes black cloth , with veils rend the cloth o f the same ing, and to put shade ; but by on filthy gar a wise dispe n o f ments sack sation , young T cloth . his children were wa s fabric , and not compelled is still in the t o adopt the

E o f . ast, made of symbols woe A hair, which has year was the an irritating e f usual period for fee t upon the m o u rn inga h u s fa skin , and was band , wife, for this purpose ther, mother, o r bro adopted as a sister, p e n i t e nt i a l ther but rela dress by the tions wh o had early Roman been outlawed ,

. Th e THE E o r Church LAYING OUT AND MOURNING D AD . imprisoned , covering of the bankrupt, were h e a d wa s — N another manifestation o f sorrow a not accorded this mark o f respect . uma o practice Indicated by the hoods worn by published certain laws for the guidance o f e a t - o f m le mourners, and h e flowing hat bands m urners, including one forbidding women E 2 2 HE E L U TI S H 5 T VO ON OF FA I OIV.

o r xc to scratch their faces, to make an e e p sexes were expected to abstain from going to t io n a l o f T h e o f display grief at funerals . public ceremonies and places amusement E A D mperor Justinian ( . . 5 37) also turned his and women were not allowed to marry till a ’ attention to this subject, and regulated the year had elapsed from the husband s death , o f expenses at funeral ceremonies, so as to without the special permission the wh o E r secure those remained from the double mperor . Histo y, however, does not o f calamity losing their friends and, at the record that their lords and masters applied same time, incurring heavy pecuniary lia this rule to their o wn conduct. bil it ie s o n their Th e Greeks Pr account . o b u ri e d th ei r visio n wa s m a de dead before fo r b u ry i n g sunrise, so as e a ch pe rso n fre e to avoid osten o f a t i n cost , and for t o . Mourn protecting the ing wo m e n t o ok survivors from part in the pro HE E r E T HE T D o EA . e xt o r MO NFOLDING D D various cession , and F tions. unds ac c o m p an i e d were appropriated fo r the purpose o f inter the chief female mourner in her visits to the

o n . ments, which were conducted by those grave, the seven days following interment

. T appointed for the purpose All persons were his custom , which was derived from the E wa s to be buried in the same manner ; though ast, a usual feature in Jewish , Roman, wh o E . those desired to do so could , at their and gyptian , as well as in Greek funerals Th e own cost, indulge in certain display, but this funeral feast was a common practice l On wa s additional expense was imited . state among the classical ancients, and kept o n occasions, as, for example, the death of up to a comparatively recent period, in various

T HE CUP OF CON S OLATION .

E Th o f o r E u . e an mperor a great defeat , the whole ropean countries Cup Consola Th nation assumed the mourning garb . e tion consisted of light refreshments prepared o f a o f defeat Cann e, the conspiracy Catalina, and sent in by the friends of mourners, who ae and the death of Julius C sar, were all con were not supposed to busy themselves with i r Th e s de e d of sufficient importance fo r the domestic affairs at such a time . illus f observance o this custom . Private mourn t ra tio n gives a good idea of the mourning ing could be broken among the Romans by habit adopted by the immediate family of the

f s . certain domestic events , as the birth o a o n deceased Caves were used for the disposal o f o f or daughter, the marriage a child, or the the dead, as well as elaborately constructed f i e o wa r. s r turn a prisoner taken in Both sepulchres, of which many remain to th THE E VOL U TI ON OF F AS HI N O . 5 3

h da . E u i wa s In y art b r al favour with some funeral processions were magnificent . When o f wa r nations, but in time o r pestilence a king quitted this mortal sphere the temples — , t o . Th e o f fo r cremation was resorted practice were closed seventy two days , and there o we E o r embalming we to the gyptians, who were no sacrifices, solemnities, feasts . o f o f carried it to a great state perfection . Companies two o r three hundred men and On e o f the earliest embalmments on record o f is that Joseph , whose body accompanied the Israelites on their journey throu gh the

. wa s f Wilderness He placed in a co fin, a distinction in the E ast only accorded to those

of the highest rank , the usual mode being to simply swathe the corpse closely in

wrappers and bandages, thus retaining the o f shape the human form . Th e Jews largely

used spices and perfumes, which were em ployed both fo r anointing and fo r wrapping up

I E S T HE I CE E I PR T OF OTH NTURY, W AR NG A C E E BLA K DALMATIC DG D WITH FUR , E R EADY TO SAY R EQUI M MAS S .

women , in mean attire paraded the streets, singing plaintive songs and reciting the T virtues o f him they had lost . hey ate o r no meat, food dressed by fire, and omitted their customary baths and anoint E o n e ings . very mourned as for the death o f

a favourite child, and spent the day in Th e lamentations . Pyramids, those wonder E ful monuments to gyptian monarchs, are memorials o f the reverence and industry o f - S X W D W AN ANGLO A ON I O . a o f the n tion , whose high state civilization — is attested to by their works . the body a very necessary precaution in hot Burial clubs were common among the

- . Th e E o n climates gyptians, the death of a Anglo Saxons, and heavy fines were inflicted o r fo r o n relative sacred animal (the cat, those who did not attend the funeral of a a h . T e inst nce), attired themselves in yellow gar member corpse was placed on a bier, o ff ments and shaved their eyebrows . Their and on the body was laid the book of the H E V L TI N OF F AS HI 54 T E O U O ON.

o f Gospels , a code belief and a cross as a mourning as a rule, though purple and brown b o f wa s . sym ol hope . A silken linen pall were occasionally substituted Chaucer, in ’ Th e used , according Knight s ” o f T to the rank ale, speaks the dead per of clothes n Th e bl a ck so . cler all drop ” gy bore lighted ped with tears , t ap e r s a n d and , again , of “ ch a n t e d th e w i d d o w c s o f p s al t e r, th e habit samite ” r mass wa s per b o w n . I n o n formed , and a many cases , liberal o ffe rin g the death o f made to the her husband, poon the wife retired From a oth fo r a year to a century MS . in convent , when the National she assumed ’ Library, Paris, the nun s dress , is given a sketch o f which the which clearly widow ’s weeds o f d e fi n e s th e I E E the present H R D MOURN R S . mourning habit day are a sym f Th Th e o . e o f that period . gown is evidently bol mourning adopted by Katherine o f V o f V o f black woollen cloth , trimmed with black and alois , wife Henry . , the hero o f wh o white fur ; and a gauze veil the same Agincourt, F Vin sombre tint envelops the head . rom the died at o f - c e n n e s 1 2 2 same source a drawing an Anglo Saxon in 4 , o n o f priest is given , account his wearing a may be regard s t i black dalmatic , edged with fur, a vestment ed a the yp only adopted when a requiem mass was per ca l wi d o w ’ s

formed . dress o f that

In the Middle Ages black was used for period . It con sisted o f a black brocade

c o t e h ard i , e dg e d w i t h

white fur, and further embel l i s h e d wi t h b l a ck gla s s

beads, which were also used

’ wi o o w s D R E S S O F Q U EEN KATH E RIN E A K L ' ‘ m : VA I S IN T HE E AR 1 2 2 S C C I H. MOURNING IN O LO , Y 4 THE E VOL U TI OzV OF F AS HI ON

fo r ornamenting the winged head dress . Planché tells us dukes and marquises were Her black woollen gown has a deep border allowed sixteen yards for their gowns sl o e s . , pp

W i . i o f o r ! mg of h te fur Some mourn ng habits ( mourning cassocks) and mantles ; an ear ,

S E S W R I I I PAI HIS E A S A T HE E RA CO TUM O N BY KING PHIL P . OF S N AND ATT ND NT T FUN L E PROCES S ION OF HIS FATH R .

i th s period are represented in a splendid fourteen ; a viscount, twelve ; a baron , eight ; i “ i ” i i manuscr pt L ber Regalis , still preserved in a knight, six ; and all nfer or persons , two

We s t m i n s t e r A b b e y . yards only ; but an arch They are composed o f bishop had the same black fabrics in the pre privilege as a duke. vailing fashion , and are Hoods were only per m itt e d fu r r e d w i t h e r m i n e . to those above Fro issart relates that the the degree o f esquire o f E f F ’ o o n . arl oix, hearing the king s household o f o f s n the death his o , Margaret, Countess

Gaston , sent for his o f R i c h m o n d, t h e barber, and was close mother of King Henry

VI I . shaved , and clothed , issued , in the o f himself and his house eighth year his reign , “ fo r hold in black . At the an ordinance the funeral o f the E arl of reformation o f a ppa re l l F f r wo landers, all the nobles o great estates of and others present were men in the tym e o f “ attired in black gowns m o u rn in ge . They and o n the death o f shall have their su rc o t te s F John , King of rance , with a trayne before and o f be h n de the King Cyprus another y , and clothed himself in black th e i r m a n t l es w i t h h . T e mourning traynes . queen is su rc o t te At the end o f the t o wear a , with

fifteenth century, it was the traynes as aforesaid, considered necessary in and playne boode, and E ngland to pass sump a tippet at the boode tua r y mourning laws, lying a good length ’ o f owing to the e xtra va GENTLEMAN S M OU R N INGE T IM E upon the trayne the ! R Y m , gance of the nobility in HEN , mantel being in breadth the superfluous usage o f a n a yl e and an inche . c l o t h a n d u u h 0 0 d t 0 other items at f n erals . Habits After the first q arter of a year, the . _ . i i i i e i and l ver es were l mited to certain quantities . be lined with black sat n, or furr d w th THE E V H 56 OL U TI ON OF FAS I ON.

a ll fo r ermine and ladies down to the degree of lasted three days , by which time the m o u rn in e fo r a baroness, are to wear similar g , arrangements a simple interment were ” h u . T e s rc o t te and to be barbed at the chin , completed , and the body was placed rever Th f . e o with trayne, hood , barbe , and tippet , are ently in the ground obsequies kings o f visible in the sketch a lady of the sixteenth and queens , however, were carried over a ’ Ve rc e l l io s century , taken from Pietro famous protracted period , consequently a waxen h ’ work o n costume . T e gentleman s mourn f ing o black cloth and fur, is reproduced from a contemporary MS .

Among the obsolete funeral customs , may -in be mentioned the Death Crier , the lying e ffi ie s o f state of all classes, and the waxen g those of royal rank . Before newspapers wa s published obituary notices, it customary for the Death Crier , armed with a bell and o r attired in a black livery, painted em - t o broidered with skulls and cross bones, announce to the townspeople, and inhabitants of surrounding villages, that another had gone T wa s over to the majority . his functionary

’ E R Wi D o w s R E SS OF TO- DAY G MAN D .

figure was prepared, which was dressed in

regal robes, and substituted for the body as T soon as decomposition set in . his fashion wa s in vogue till the time of William a n d

Mary, and in Westminster Abbey there is a e ffi ie s collection of waxen g , which may be

viewed by permission of the Dean . As like

nesses they are interesting, and they are also

useful as costume studies . Of late years, in this country, mourning

has been considerably modified, particularly

for the male sex, who often content them FRENCH LADY o r 1 6TH CENTU R Y i N selves with a black hat-band and another on ’ wm o w s WE ED o f - S . the left sleeve dark coloured clothes . By

Scotch law, whether a man dies solvent or i o r n the employ of the Corporation , civil m o f ‘ insolvent, his widow may clai out his i i , o f f author t es and on the death of a member estate, su ficient for mourning suitable to F wa the Royal amily, he s usually accompanied her rank, and the same privilege applies to o f h by the Guild Holy Souls, w o walked in o f wh each her children , o are old enough to be ’ i , g a t process on bearin lighted tapers and other present their father s funeral . This right - - religious emblems. Lying in state usually takes precedence over any debts the dead man

P R CHA TE V I I .

NT R I IT IE C S O F M AS C U L I N E CO S T U M E .

THE E L TI N OF F AS HI 6 VO U O OIV. 1

H C APTE R V I I .

TR T O O T E C C E N I C I I E S F M A S C U L I N E C S U M E .

h Th e fash io n e a rs o ut m o e a a re t h a n t e m a n . w — r pp l fined themselves to small designs drawn at a M u cl z Ado a bou t ot /ri n N . g considerable distance from each other ; but Th o u h a e re c o h e s a vice s do a e a r r g t tt d l t s m ll pp , " — ' the nobles had the privilege of ornamenting Ro be s a n d fu re o n s h i a l l . I af n Le a r r d g w d e g . their persons with large figures, chiefly of ” “ u N T A I Y, thy name is woman , As animals, subsequently transferred to their V a vain as a woman , and simil r shields, after they adopted a less scanty o u r epithets, are hurled at defence costume, and this may be looked upon as ” o f Th e less heads by our teachers and masters ; yet the origin family arms . Picts, who h o w f few of them pause for a moment to con inhabited the north o Britain, were remark sider whether they are altogether free from able for their pictorial decorations , hence t his human weakness or exempt from that their name, derived from an ancient word , ' ' zctz Our l o v e o f d r e s s p , which signifies painted . remote which they so ancestors also added to their other charms strongly condemn (which were doubtless irresistible to the

in others . It does o f belles that period), by deepening the tone o f not require a deep their naturally ruddy locks, by washing study o f the his t h e m i n tory o f costume water boiled

to reveal some w i t h l i m e . curious anomalies Their cloth i th s respect , ing was o f and the sketches skins of ani chosen for the mals killed

purpose of illus in the chase, t ra ting this chapter a n d t h e y will only give a were armed f faint idea o what with im pl e h as b e e n c o n m e n t s o f side re d appropri b o n e a n d Th ate and becoming flint . e to the manly form Tyrian tra a t d i fi e r e n t ders taught e p o c h s . I n t h e m h o w ’ “ Pe l a utie r s His to construct ” toire des Celtes , v a r i o u s N B A i S S . RITON CL D KIN we learn that weapons o f “ the toilet of the war from a re ancient inhabitants of Britain , somewhat composition sembled that o f the North American Indian o f c o p p er o f the present day, and consisted o f a series t m and , and BRITON AT T HE T i M E of elaborate paintings over the whole surface ”I ? ” fl a t V S O o f ROMAN IN A I N . the body, which were no doubt originally w i c k e r intended to protect the skin, from the incle shields were superseded by those o f metal m e n cie s of the weather, but were afterwa rds ornamented with concentric circles . After used as a mode o f embellishment and a o f the Roman Conquest Britain, the skin o f ff means distinguishing the di erent classes, garments were laid aside for dyed tunics and for it was reserved to freemen , and strictly close trousers . Over the tunic was worn a o S Th f rbidden to laves . e lowe r classes c o n o r b th sagum , short cloak, so named y e 62 THE E VOL U TI ON OF FAS HI O

' “ sa t c o f E Romans from , a word Celtic origin , tomb of dmund Ironside, was embroidered o r which signified a skin hide . When the with the likeness of golden apples and orna ” m e n t e d . F head was covered it was with a cap, from the with pearls rom this, we see that ca b British , a hut, which , from its circular the needle played an important part in the o f we shape, it somewhat resembled , for the dwelling ornamentation clothing, and to it also f S places were composed o wattles firmly fixed owe the plendid Bayeux tapestry, worked o f in the ground and fastened together at the by Matilda , wife William the Conqueror . This priceless curiosity is n o t only remark o f able as a magnificent piece workmanship, but aff—ords a good idea o f the dress o f that period the r i t h century. A tunic reaching

to the ankle, leg bandages and shoes , a

flowing mantle and flat cap, were the chief characteristics of the civil dress of this and Th e N succeeding reigns . ormans, however,

- were clean Shaven . During the Middle Ages extravagance pre

vailed in both male and female costume . r Handsome furs were in g eat request, and

several times sumptuary laws were passed . Men wore eight indispensable articles of

dress , the shirt, breeches , stockings, shoes , a coat, surcoat or cotehardie, m ntle, and head Th r - dress . e coat o under dress corre s o n de d p with the tunic of the ancients, and

was entirely hidden , with the exception of

E CANUT .

top . A curious remnant o f this fashion is the horn- like cap o f rushes still made by Welsh Th children . e hair was usually long and o f flowing . Men rank shaved the chin and allowed the moustache to grow to an extra ordinary length . Th e Saxons and Danes are spoken o f as “ ” wearers of scarlet, purple, and fine linen, and the latter combed their hair once a day, bathed once a week , and frequently changed their clothing . By these means they found in o f favour the eyes the women, and de lighted the wives and daughters of the

. MS . nobility In a curious , written in the T HE WILLIAM NORMAN, FROM BAYE UX o f re r reign King Canute, the monarch is p e ES TAP TRY. sented in a tunic and mantle embellished n d a . Th e o f T with cords tassels tops his the sleeves, by the surcoat . here were two o f o n e stockings are embroidered, but he wears kinds mantles, open in the front, the S imple leather shoes . A vestment presented two sides connected by a strap resting o n the o f o n by Canute to Croyland Abbey was silk, chest, the other was open the right side n embroidered with golden eagles, and the rich and had o e end thrown over the left l h e e a pa l which e ord re d to b l id ove r th e Shoulder . Head coverings were of various THE E VOL U TI ON OF F AS HI ON . 63

descriptions ; but many adopted hoods with which were shaped like a bagpipe and were

long points, which were used to attach them worn by all classes . Many writers refer to ’ Th e to the belt when not in use . assembling them as the devil s receptacles, as whatever l o f of Par iament in the reign Richard II . could be stolen was hidden away in their gives the lay, spiritual , and legal peers in folds . Some were wide and reached to the their usual costumes, feet , others to the knee , and they were full o f o f ff and is reproduced from slits . Hose were often di erent colours . ’ “ e o f - Planch s History Parti coloured suits were also in favour, and ” Th e British Costume . these were frequently scalloped at the edges Bishops are in cowls and embroidered with mottoes and other “ wh o near the throne, the devices . Chaucer, wrote the Canter ” judges in coifs and bury . Tales towards ’ E o f furred robes, the arls the end Richard s o f Westmorland and reign, describes in the Northumberland stand most graphic manner o f c o n in front . Th e D uke of the apparel his “ Th e Hereford , in high cap, is t e m p o rar i e s . o f to the left the throne, haberdasher, carpenter, E and xeter, Salisbury, weaver, dyer, and and other peers are t a p es t r y wo r k er, all seated opposite the wealthy burghers o f the o f judges . During the City London , were o f reign Richard II . , clothed in a livery, and which lasted over twenty the handles o f their a 1 ye rs ( 377 to knives, pouches, and there were many curious girdles were ornamented Th fashions in masculine GENTLE MAN OF T HE with silver . e clergy Th e attire . peaked I TH C NTU R Y were not to be dis 4 E . t in u ish e d shoes , chained to the g from the a o n i knee, were not more ridiculous than the l ity , and rode horseback, gl ttering with deep, wide sleeves commonly called pokeys, gold, in gowns of scarlet and green , fine with T cut work . heir m it re s e m be l l ish e d with pearls like the o f head a queen , and staffs of pre cions metals set ” w i t h j e w e l s . Even the parish clerk is said to be “ spruce and fop ” pish in his dress . Th e author of an anonymous work called the “ Eulo ” o f gium , this date, —“ says Th e com monet s were be sotted in excess of

a p p a r el . Some in wide surcoats reaching to their

loins, some in a PA E A S S E E D I T HE E R C AR I I RLIAM NT M BL N R IGN OF I H D . garment reaching TI F F S HI 64 THE E VOL U ON O A OIV.

o f to their heels, closed before and sticking out the produce of their estates, and a con side ra bl e o f at the sides, so that at the back they make number the younger sons of men seem like women, and this they call by good families were the leading traders of the m n e T 1 th 1 6th the ridiculous name go . heir hoods are s and centuries . ” T Th e fro cke little, and tied under the chins . heir lirri frequently mentioned , and of de n pipes (tippets) pass round the neck , and which the modern frock coat is the ge e ” wa s a o f hanging down before, reach to the heels . rate descendant , sort jacket or T o f i t h owards the end the 4 century men jerkin made occasionally with skirts, a style ’ t o began to wear short clothes made fit the associated especially, with Holbein s portraits l V body so close y that it often required the of Henry III . and his contemporaries . o f Th e assistance two people to remove them , uniform worn at the present day by m o f and it is fro this period we can distinctly the Yeomen the Guard stationed at the . T o f trace the difference between ancient and ower London , gives us the military

o u r o f T . modern dress in fact, present fashions costume the udor period It is the — — ’ masculine and feminine resemble to a oldest corps in her Majesty s service, and V certain extent those worn during mediae val was instituted by Henry II. as the body T times . hen, as guard of the

n o w . , men wore sovereign In overcoats with the dress of the t i gh t s l ee v e s , Bluecoat Boys felt hats also with at Christ ’s Hos feathers, worn pital we have S over a kull cap, that of the citi and slung behind zens o f London the back , and during the reign - fi t t i n o f E V I c l o s el y g dward . shoes and boots . and Mary, when T h e T u d o r blue coats were monarchs paid habitually used considerable a t by apprentices tention to the and serving men, adornment o f yellow stockings their persons , also were in re s o n and were p c o m m o n u s e. sible for strin Th e badges o n gent legal enact t h e j a c k e t s ments calculated S E T HE E I E V I of firemen and CO TUM OF R GN OF H NRY I . t o e n c o u rage watermen date F - —o n e home manufacturers . elt hat making from this time ; they were made of metal and f u r — 1 6 o o oldest industries was introduced into placed on the sleeve, in the th century, n r this country from Spain and Holland . A instead of being embroidered o the back o great impetus was given to this branch o f breast of the garment as they had been pre 1 1 vio u sl o f trade by a law passed in 5 7 which enjoined y. Retainers in the households the “ o f every person above the age seven years wealthy, were provided with surcoats and ’ o n o r to wear Sundays holidays a cap of mantles twice a year, of their patron s . wa s wool, knit made, thickened , and dressed in favourite colour, and this called the ' o f Iz z/rée F England by some of the trade cappers , , from a rench word signifying to dis T o f under the forfeiture of three farthings for tribute . rade guilds and members the ’ 1 60 every day s neglect . In 3 the felt learned professions, also adopted a distinct o f wh o . w makers became a Corporation with grants style costume La yers, were origi

. T and many privileges hroughout the nally priests, of course wore the tonsure ; but Middle Ages the upper classes frequently when the clergy ceased to interfere with f . w engaged in commerce Bishops , abbots , and secular af airs the lay la yer continued this ‘ S f T o o flic e . nobles personally superintende d the disposal ign , and also wore a coif heir

66 THE E VOL U TI ON OF F AS HI ON

wa . Th e Th and trunk hose gave y to breeches mistresses . e beard was worn in different o r Roundheads Republican Party went to ways, but the most usual shape was what “ . T F the opposite extreme hey cut their hair Beaumont and letcher, in their Queen o f

C E S i t . AND HIS E E Wi LLi AM 1 1 1 1 E AND OF 1 8TH HARL Q U N . ( 694) G NTLE MAN LADY 1 662 ( ) CENTURY .

” T o t close, avoided lace and jewels, had plain Corinth , call the beard , consisting a

“ o f o r linen or cloth suits a grey brown tint, moustache and imperial His be a with a hat somewhat resembling the m odern rd , ’ Wh i h f o f a T c n o w h e pu t i th e o rm , chimney pot . T R a r is t h e fa sh i o n h e o m a n T yo ur T h e d , - An d f r s th e n a o u re co u r ie . About this period we also hear o f the t wo o ld d o th e xp e s e m d t r w waistcoat, which as cut Shakespeare also tells us, wa s ff high at the neck , and it was often dyed di erent made with sleeves . Neck colours . cloths and cravats o f Everyone tried to rival Brussels and Flanders lace his neighbour in the size be were tied in a knot under of his peruke, till they the chin, and had square came so preposterous that ends . Another peculiar Charles II . showed his dis feature of masculine cos favour by writing a letter tume towards the end o f to the U niversity o f Cam the i 7th century consisted bridge forbidding the o f petticoat breeches with members to wear periwigs , f o r drooping lace ru fles, such smoke tobacco , read a s adorn the nether limbs their sermons . History o f ff Charles II . Patches does not relate what e ect and perukes were also the King’s censure had - o f adopted, and the former upon the head gear s l fa hion, a revival of an o d students attending the col

Roman custom , had politi leges, but it is absolutely W D 1 8 0 ES S . cal significance according ALKING R , 3 proved that they paid no to where they were placed heed to his latter com o n the face, and were bitterly ridiculed by mands . It was the fashion for men to comb

- numerous satirical writers . I know many their perukes in public, and curiously chased ” o n e - young gentlemen , says Middleton , in of combs of bone and tortoise shell , were carried “ wh o Wi ff - his plays, wear longer hair than their in the pocket th the snu box, another H TI N OF F AS HI O V T E E VOL U O I . indispensable appendage o f a fine gentle We h ave only to cast o u r eyes down the o f man . vista ages to find that British costume has 1 8th In the century the broad hat brims been suited to the needs , habits , and customs wa were turned up at the sides, and , in the racy of the people, and periods at which it s

o f . o f vernacular the day, each gallant cocked worn Skins animals were approp riate to ” his hat according to his fancy . Shoe buckles the hardy cave dwellers who inh a b ited this i ’ became general in the reign of Queen Anne , country at an early period n the world s Th and displaced the ribbon rosettes formerly history . e simple dress of the Anglo worn . Planché accurately describes the Saxons fulfilled the requirements of a primi “ f Th e - fashions o that day. square cut coat tive race ; and the furs and rich fabrics i ff was st ened with wires and buckram , and brought home by the Crusaders were adapted the long- fla ppe d waistcoat with pockets almost to the higher state o f civilization which pre

T ff . i 6 h met the stockings . here were hanging cu s vailed in the Middle Ages In the t ru fli e s - with lace , square toed shoes with red century the Renaissance (of art and culture) fo r f o r o . heels , and hats laced with gold silver was specially noted richness attire ” 1 8th f galloon . During the century a mixture o styles At the beginning o f the roth century many which had found favour with previous E important changes took place . xcepting generations was the most marked feature in r fo r for Cou t dress , cloth was substituted the costume of that period, and this equally Th two velvet and other rich fabrics . e coat was applies to the first decades o f the present

- o n e . open , displaying an elaborate shirt front , Masculine attire at the present day, stock and flowered waistcoat ; and the skirt , though simple and practical , has few points f T o . though full , fell in natural folds . rousers beauty to recommend it Briefly, it o f l were very tight, and held in place by a strap resolves itself into a series wool en m beneath the foot, and hats displayed narrow cylinders which changeth not fro genera curved brims . tion to generation .

CHAPTE R V I I I .

A BO U T C D R A D T R C O T H I L E N N H E I L H I N G .

F F HI THE E VOL U TI ON O AS OIV.

E C HAPT R V I I I .

L T T A C H AT A BOU T C H I D R E N A N D H E I R C LO H I N G .

Th e ch i h o o sh o s t h e m a n ld d w , body, passed under the right arm and over ” ’ - M z l t on . h o s t h e da . As m o rn ing s w y r h the left shoulder o forearm . T e girdle ’ F we o f o f children s dress in olden times have sometimes consisted a cord, at others

singularly few details, and , as a rule, metal bands, and by drawing the chiton over o f it may be concluded that their raiment it, a double thickness the fabric covered f was fashioned o n similar lines to that worn the vital organs o the body . Boys wore the a n d at by the men and women of the country in tunic and toga, the l ter is supposed to o r which they lived , and was more less orna have been oblong, with the corners rounded

. o ff ff . m e n t e d, according to their station in life , so as to give a semicircular e ect Hats

On e o r , two biblical references enlighten us were not commonly worn except by the “poor On o f o r o n o f t E . as to astern customs the authority when a journey, a fold the oga or o u r d St . Luke, Saviour in infancy was wrapped mantle serving for a hea covering, and “ ” in swaddling clothes . Samuel , we are sandals protected the feet . Th e E told, being a child , was girded with a linen gyptian labouring _classes allowed ” t o ephod , which appears their children be nude, to have been a close and inf ants were u n robe o r vest reaching familia r with swaddling Th e from the Shoulders to clothes . w orking the loins, and confined man and boy had simply by a girdle . Consider a loin cloth and girdle, ing the climate and the and the girl a loose o f habits the people, it tunic fastened with was probably the only strings at the neck and garment used in sum reaching to her feet . On mer, but in cold weather the other hand , we o f was supplemented, children the upper E presume, by the little classes in gypt were coat his mother bought repetitions of their elders h im . from year to year, on a small scale Girls when she and her hus wore a linen Skirt em band came to offer the broidered in colours

annual sacrifice, at Shi and fastened with a E E I CHILDR N OF CHARL S . l o h El i , where , the High bright sash , or suspended t r a a i ti Va d cl z A e n n b n . o f ( f p g y y ) Priest, lived . A coat from the shoulders, and many colours was also over this a loose trans Th e c o s presented to Joseph in his youth as a mark parent robe with long sleeves . male ’ f f fo r f o Jacob s a fection the child o f his o l d tume consisted o a loin cloth , and a full robe

a e . o r g with short sleeves, a tunic, and both sexes

Greek and Roman children o f the gentler had elaborately curled or plaited wigs, as the o r wa s sex are usually represented in the chiton , natural hair only allowed to grow in

o f . loose classical gown , combined with a shawl times mourning o r Th e o f himation weighted at the four corners , so Roman occupation Britain left its o n o f as to assist the wearer in adjusting it . How impress for a long period the costume

- Th e - S to put o n this garment wa s carefully taught the Anglo Saxon race . long leeved f ’ h o f as part o a girl s education . T e long end banded tunic was the usual habit the wa s Th e first thrown over the left shoulder . industrial classes through the Middle Ages front part was arranged in folds a cross the and l e g bandages a nd cross gartering precede d 2 H 7 T E E VOL U TI ON OF F AS HI ON .

a breeches . Quite young the common materi ls for boys appear in this dress, wearing apparel in this and little girls are seen in country were cotton, linen, ancient MSS . in the kirtle and woollen . u - and gunna, the eq ivalents Among the Anglo Saxons o f the modern petticoat and and their pagan ancestors T o f dress . heir hair, how the desertion children ever, was allowed to fall sometimes occurred , but as o f C naturally, or was dressed the influence hristianity with two pendant plaits , increased, it was regarded and was not concealed , as as a crime, and a law was was so often the case with passed for its repression . Fo r a adult females , by means of fostering foundling

- the head rail . Th e mate the State allowed 65 . the 2 5 rials used in clothing were first year ; 1 . the second ; 0 to a great extent the pro and 3 5 . for the third year ; duce of household industry . and afterward the foster Th e women servants were parent was t o receive a sum employed in spinning, varying according to the f o . weaving, and sewing, and appearance the child ladies o f the highest rank Children bereft of their did not disdain to partici father, remained under the ’ in . pate such labours mother s care, but until the Several articles o f dress eldest child became o f age were derived from the were subject to the guard ’ i a n sh i tanner, who worked up his p of the husband s leather into shoes, ankle relations . Mothers usually o wn leathers , and leathern hose. nursed their children , Th e o f art tanning skins cradles were used, and for wo o l o r o n f w with the hair , the first e months their wa s also practised, and clothing was swathed with co m dyeing was in great a bandage . In this for in a ru de pact form age a l o ve of they were ga u d y c o more easi l l o u r s i s a y carried, natural cha t h o u g h ra c t e rist ic of t h e c o n the people . s t ra i n t t o T h e m o s t which they skilful a rtifi w er e s u b e c t c e rs w ere j e d, pro found in the bably pre r e l i g i o u s vented that houses, but free deve under each l o pm e n t of l a n d o w n e r the limbs, s e r fs w e r e wh i c h w e t rai n e d i n now c o n si the mecha der so essen n c l i a ar t s . tial to health w a s S i l k and beauty . worn by the Ifvery poor, ’ S S E PR ES E D AY e wealthy, but CHILDREN CO TUM , NT , th fath e r

V F 74 THE E VOL U TI O/ OF AS HI OIV.

frocks embellished with lace , the pointed leathern belts, show to greater advantage V u collars, and beaver hats with trailing feathers Queen ictoria inaug rated a new system o f universally worn , and the quaint lace caps, clothing for boys, when she dressed the young ’ a t urn o f f which , by ashion s wheel , have been Princes in Scotch and sailor suits, and the

- remodelled for the children of t o day. wardrobes of all classes have been consider o f - At no period in the history of costume ably extended late, by the open air life and were the styles so offensive to those with a outdoor sports in which every self-respecting

lad indulges . Cricket, tennis, boating, foot

ball, and cycling, all imperatively demand

appropriate apparel , and tailors now give reasonable attention to this important branch o f their business, and provide fabrics and designs suited to the needs of the rising

generation . Habits o f personal cleanliness and the influence o f dress o n the minds of growing

true conception o f colour and than in o f the first half the nineteenth century . We have only to turn t o the sketches o f Leech and contemporary artists to find bare necks S and arms, conspicuous underwear, very hort skirts distended by a stiffened petticoat o r crinoline, white cotton stockings, low shoes fastened by a strap and single button , mush room hats, aprons and pinafores devoid o f elegance and grace, and the hair cut close girls is hardly realized except by those to the head o r arranged in rows o f stiff ring directly concerned in education . Many a ’ No r C . o f E lets did the boys ngland, in sensitive hild s character has been warped o n S o f trousers buttoned high hort jackets, o r by the thoughtless jeers schoolfellows, with tunics worn with frilled linen collars a n d who were quick to perceive that h e r clothing I THE E VOL U TI ON OF F AS H OIV. 75

u —to a t o r o f was not p d e at my disposal, I am enabled such good material as their to put before the reader ’ On own . the other hand, examples of children s u n ch a rit w vanity, envy , and clothing hich are artistic in o f ableness have been engen form , light texture, and

dered by foolish mothers , which in no way impede

wh o . have provided , their the physical development daughters with ina ppro pri Those who have the care f ate and extravagant outfits . o children should remem Though many advocate ber what a sacred charge

uniforms with distinctive is imposed upon them , and ’ fo r trimmings girls colleges , that their future health

there are drawbacks to the mainly depends, upon the

scheme being adopted . manner in which they are Such a course would p ro clothed during the first few T bably destroy the individu years o f life . here must o r ality which we all desire to be no tight bands, belts , see applied to the Choice garters to prevent circula o f clothing , and it would tion and to cause organic le ave no field fo r original troubles ; and where corsets

ideas . Children must be are dispensed with , as hap t ra i n ed to select and wear pily they are in m any cases their clothes to the best where growing girls are o f advantage, and it is folly to concerned, the weight think that they will do so the clothing should be borne n o t by intuition . Some may by the shoulders, the

possess naturally an artistic waist, and this is ensured by sense and a keen eye for cutting undergarments in

colour, but they are cer the princess or combination

t a inl . e o y in the minority, forms Many young p rational dress ple suffer from reformers have be in g c a re l e ssl y S o pushed sensi h d, a n d ble ideas to the hideous mal verge o f absurd formations o f ity, till now the the feet arise name is almost i n c o n s e u e n c e regarded as a q , while term of re o b s c u r e d L f proach . seases o the Ho w much b r a i n c a n we o we to pio sometimes be n e e rs o f chil traced to heavy ’ dren s dress re h e a d - g e a n form , and espe and the strain

- c ia l l o f . yto Messrs . over study wh o Liberty , Hats should be evolved what o f light c o n i s g e n er al l y struction , and ' known as the a flo rd a grate a st h e t ic style ful shade to F in dress . rom the eyes, if sketches cour that far- reach te o u sl y placed in g ailment o f 6 THE E L U TI N OF F AS HI I 7 VO O O V.

a civilisation , short sight, is to be successfully with at le st an ele combatted ; and special attention must be construction and f wh o ? Th e paid to infants, may often be seen in body ignora public thoroughfares with a h o t sun beating maid is appalling ; 3 e down upon them , and the nurse oblivious to education may hav Th e e n o f Fir the fact. sight of a tender infant mysteries the o f o f i trusted to the care a young woman , who rudiments mus has n o t the glimmering o f a notion o f h o w to includes the sim p look after its fragile body , must fill any healthy training

- right minded person with indignation . Is it consequence, the unreasonable to expect those wh o under take mortality in this the charge of children to acquaint themselves disgrace. CHAPTE R

C O T O A R O P R O D S U M E F V I U S E I S .

THE E L U TI N OF F AS HI OI VO O V. 79

C HAPT E R IX .

Y T P F A N C CO S U M E O F V A R I O U S E R I O D S .

Th e o m e , h e re e a sure h o s h e r mi n i h re i n Th e t o d w pl ld d g t g , were reversed . churl was elected He re rich e cke a mi s th e o r e o us ra in ly d d , d t g g t represent the Pope ; the buffoon was made a T u m u uo us ra n e u r cro s th e b a z in s u a re lt g d wd l g q , ” Th e ra n ch a rio s c a sh th e o rch e s a r cardinal ; and the lowest of the mob assumed ttli g t l , t gl e . r fo the time being the garb of the priesthood, U N o f o f . RI G the Roman occupation and took possession churches, where they

, o f Britain many sports and pastimes, parodied every part the sacred service,

with their appropriate costumes, were o f s and sang masses composed obscene song . introduced into this country from Southern Dramatic representations were so tainted E E urope and the ast, and at a very early by the grossness and licentiousness o f the period mummings were popular with the age, that priests were prohibited from attend T people . hese were primitive masquerades , ing them , till the Church introduced religious m a where the actors, if we judge from y plays , founded on scriptural incidents, and

, antique illuminations generally mimicked which were known as miracles and mysteries. ' the brute creation rather than human beings . Fo r these the actors were trained by the They often appeared between the courses at C lergy, and sacred edifices and vestments

, banquets and on important occasions ela were placed at their disposal , to give truth

. borate pageants were arranged Ships filled and lustre t o the representations . w o r ith mariners were sometimes introduced , There were frequent tournaments after the r N towers ga risoned with armed men , while the orman Invasion , and these were patronized o r actors portrayed some allegorical lesson and encouraged by Richard Coeur de Lion . historical incident . From this era they occupied a prominent place A well - known event intimately connected in the national institutions and history, and with masking was the narrow escape from afforded many opportunities for the display V I . o f F o n death by fire of Charles rance , o f picturesque costume . Ladies on these

2 th 1 2 . Th e January 9 , 39 king, with eleven occasions were conspicuous, and sometimes o f f - his knights, for the amusement o the rode in parti coloured tunics with short - fitt in Court, dressed like savages , in tight g hoods and tippets wrapped about their o f T garments linen covered with flax, and heads . heir girdles were decorated with were dancing before the Queen and the gold and silver, and they carried small swords . ’o ’ Duchess de Berri , when the Duc d rleans Th e S pace marked o ut for the combat was with a torch accidentally ignited the in fla m surrounded by raised seats for high - born

mable costume of a masker, who was chained . dames, princes, and the judges of the conflict ’ . Th to four others e Duchess protected the Knights wore their ladies colours o n their o f King by wrapping him in the train her helmets, emblazoned on their clothing, and mantle, but four persons died in great agony. on the trappings of their horses ; and throngs E dward III . issued an ordinance against o f troubadours, heralds, and minstrels dressed vagrants who exhibited scandalous mas in gorgeous attire, were present to discharge u e ra de s l o w - q in ale houses, and directed that their duties, and to give importance to the such persons should be whipped out of Spectacle.

. Th e F o f F o n e Th e E ~ London east ools was of ancient nglish Morris Dance, per the most singular of these exhibitions . It formed with other quaint usages o n the I st

f . somewhat resembled the Roman Saturnalia, of May, is supposed to be o Moorish origin and was enacted at Christmas . In England It is depicted o n an antique stained glass Th f . e the celebration of this festival does not window at Betley, in Staf ordshire appear to have been attended with the same May-pole and the Man with the Hobby excesses as were commonly practised on the Horse (who represents a Moorish King, and , o f Continent but it was nevertheless a season is the consort the May Queen), occupy a o f licence, in which order and discipline Th e c prominent position . other chara ters TI N OF FAS HI 80 THE E VOL U O ON.

F0 0 1 F To m o f are the , the Lesser ool , the vocal parts performed by many the nobility, F r o . Piper, a Spaniard , the ranklin private in fancy dress Here, too, there was a display o r o f gentleman , a Churl peasant, the May fireworks in the garden and from the river . ’ N F Th e Al m a ck s Queen , a obleman , and a riar . new Subscription and Assembly F 1 6 dresses were adorned with bells, intended to Room was opened in ebruary, 7 5 , under T a n d sound the measure of the dancers . hey distinguished patronage ; Gibbon men o f ff were di erent sizes , and were called the tions a masquerade at a rival establishment, fore bell , the second bell , the treble, the the Pantheon , which he states was above par w tenor, and the great bell . in magnificence, and belo par in humour, 0 0 0 Planché , in his valuable work , the Cyclo and cost 5 . ” ’ ae dia o f F o f p Costume, states the earliest illus ive o clock was the dinner hour t u m fration of a ba l cos é is in a MS . of the fashionable people during the eighteenth

fifteenth century, in the Ambrosian Library century, and three for those of lower rank .

f . m . at Milan, and he gives a reproduction rom At eleven p supper was usually served, 6 a w 1 a s a m . an old painting on wood dating from 4 3, and bre kfast from nine to eleven representing a dance by torchlight at the Th e House o f Commons commenced sitting E Court o f Burgundy . ach person holds a at two, and the Opera began at seven . long lighted taper, and this dance, up to the At this period the domino (evolved from wa s fo r sixteenth century, usually reserved the priestly cowl) was in great request, and E i n wedding festivities . In ngland masked was used the boxes of theatres for purposes o f o f balls were rare before the reign William concealment, and by those of questionable T F . III . , and in rance they first took place morals hough the large hoop towards the o f O during the regency Philip , Duke of rleans , close of the eighteenth century was only O o r when the pera House was converted into a worn at Court, in full dress, the pocket

- F ball room . ather Sebastian , a Carmelite hoop for distending the panniers was still in f r o . Fo o f friar, devised a means elevating the floor vogue the abolition the Court hoop , IV o f . o f the pit to the level of the stage, and we are indebted to George , whose taste lowering it at pleasure . in dress was unimpeachable . Powder and V 1 Ranelagh and auxhall Gardens , and patches maintained their ground till 793,

Belsize House , Hampstead, were also places when they were discarded by Queen Charlotte

o f . o f popular resort, and scenes many enter and the Princesses Aprons were regarded t a in m e n t s during the eighteenth century . as a necessary item of a fashionable costu me 1 0 There were pyrotechnic displays, bands of up to 75 , and the watch and etui adorned the u o n m sic, frequent balls, and facilities for dinner waist, necklaces sparkled the bosom , and Th e and supper parties . lawns were dotted bracelets were worn over long gloves . Th e F ff with arbours, lakes, and artificial cascades ; rench Revolution a ected masculine 1 8 the trees were festooned with coloured lamps, costume ; and in 7 9 were introduced into o f wh o and the costumes those frequented this country the muslin cravat, in which the - u these gatherings were elaborate and costly . chin was partially concealed, stand p collars , o f From the writings Horace Walpole and Hessian boots , and round hats of beaver. a 1 8 others, we learn that private open air gal s Scarlet coats were much in vogue about 7 4 , “ were o f common occurrence among the aris and an anecdote in Th e Life o f Sir Astley ” c ra c o f t o y, and he gives a description a Cooper represents him as returning from i f estm o at Northumberland House n honour a dancing academy in a scarlet coat , a three T o f the Marquess of avistock and his bride ; cocked hat, a black glazed stock, nankeen f - o . T when arches and pyramids lights alter knee breeches, and silk stockings his may o f n a te l y surrounded the enclosure, and festoons be regarded as the ordinary costume a

1 6 1 . o f lamps edged the railings . In 7 Her gentleman at that period Majesty Qu een Charlotte surprised her hus Wigs had begun to go out o f fashion as 1 6 w band o n his birthday with a splendid garden early as 7 3, in which year the igmakers

o f . party, followed by fireworks, a cold supper petitioned King George III to support the ”

. . Th e a hundred dishes, and an illuminated dessert . trade by his example hair, says f Th e Duke o Richmond celebrated a similar Malcolm , was dressed high on the head, — l occas ion with a masked ball and music the whitened with powder, and alternately p aited

82 THE L OF F AS HI E VO U TI ON OIV.

' Th e o n Fo r u 1 8 band was fastened to the mantle the second royal ball in J ne, 45 , 1 2 1 60 either side by a massive gold ornament the period of George II . ( 7 7 7 )

wa s 1 2 0 0 . enriched with precious stones . selected , and guests were invited o f Th e Her Majesty the Queen as Phili ppa Queen looked extremely well in powder, E Hainault, wife of dward III . , was attired in and her dress is described as of cloth of - o f a demi trained skirt crimson velvet, edged gold and cloth of silver, with daisies and O wa s with miniver. ver this worn a surcoat poppies worked in silk , and shaded in natural h f o f . T e t of blue and gold brocade , trimmed with fur colours ri—mmings and ru fles to match , and embellished with a stomacher exquisite point lace had belonged to Queen o f jewels valued at Th e other portions of the costume were also studded with Th jewels . e man tle wa s of gold brocade, with a floral design in h . T e silver _ L hair was encased in a gold net , enriched w i t h p r e c i o u s stones, and was surmounted by a crown . Princess Au gusta of Cam bridge personated

Princess Claude , daughter of Anne r a n o f B e t g e ,

Queen of France . Her dress o f sil ver tissue wa s bordered with e r mine, and the tunic was o f light b l u e v e l v e h worked with the fl e u r de lis in Th e l o w silver . bodice was bor dered with dia

E E V RIA AS I A WI E E WAR I . m o n d s T h e Q U N ICTO PH LIPP , F OF D D I I sleeves o f silver C — tissue reached to the wrist, and were harlotte and the stomacher was trimmed Th Th . e trimmed with rows o f pearls . e gloves with lace and jewels sacque was orna

m e n t e d . were jewelled , and a white tulle veil with ribbons, caught with diamonds with silver embroideries depended from a On the powdered coiffure wa s a diamond ’ turquoise and pearl diadem . By Her crown ; Her Majesty s white shoes had red ’ Majesty s command, her own dress, that of rosettes with diamond centres, and she wore O o f Prince Consort, and most o f the costumes the star and ribbon of the rder the o f worn at this ball , were manufactured by the Garter . Prince Albert had a costume — o f S ita l fi l o f silk weavers p e ds. the same period , with the Star the Garter, THE E L U TI N OF F A HI O VO O S IV. 83

o f F o f fich u s and the Order the Golden leece in posed broché silk , with o f white T h e ff S brilliants . Marchioness of Douro, the chi on , and ilk hats trimmed with feathers . ’ o f - in - E Duke Wellington s daughter law, was ach carried a long crook tied with white o f the acknowledged belle this ball, and wore ribbons and bunches of flowers, and the — w . n w Th worth o f diamonds Miss o effect a s charming. e E arl of Warwick F C f the Baroness Burdett Coutts was also wore a rench ourt costume, the coat o

present, her dress trimmed with jewels once ruby velvet profusely trimmed with gold lace ,

o f . ff Th the property Marie Antoinette white cloth cu s , and revers . e long In 1 871 the Princess o f Wales attended white kerseymere waistcoat was braided in ’ - the Waverley Ball at Willis Rooms , with gold , and the white knee breeches and low o f several other members the Royal shoes were ornamented with diamond buckles . ’ ’ F Th e E a l a m o u s u efa zre amily, and was much admired in the arl s wig, q , was tied

- f c . On o haracter of the ill fated Mary Stuart with a bow black ribbon , and he carried 2 2 n d 1 8 July , 74 , a fancy dress ball was given a tricorne hat with white ostrich plumes, and ’ by their Royal Highnesses the Prince and white gauntlet gloves . Lady Warwick s two o f Princess of Wales at Marlborough House, sisters, the Duchess Sutherland and Lady F Le tz inka for which some beautiful costumes were Angela orbes , represented Marie ,

Th o f XV. . e prepared Princess wore a handsome consort Louis , and Lady Mary V Th e enetian dress, and danced in the first quad Campbell. former wore a magnificent

‘ o f Th rille with the present Duke of Devonshire . gown white satin de Lyon . e skirt Th e Prince in a Cavalier costume opened embroidered with a flight o f swallows in o f e the ball with the late Duchess Sutherland . silver and crystals , a deep b rtha of Point de ‘ Th e o n F ru fll e s o f chief costume quadrilles this occasion landre, with the same on the V h V . T e were the enetian , the andyck , Characters short sleeves train of crimson velvet F T f wa s F o . in airy ales , and a Pack Cards embroidered with the rench emblem , Another historic Oa l cost u m e was given and Her Grace had a stomacher o f splendid ’ F 1 8 F in ebruary, 95 , at Warwick Castle, by the diamonds. Lady Angela orbes dress was E f o f o . No arl and Countess Warwick more white muslin , with a blue sash , and o f fitting background for such a function can picturesque hat turquoise silk, trimmed with

. o f be imagined than this stately mansion , which feathers and roses Princess Henry Pless, o f f has been a centre hospitality for countless as la Duchesse de Polignac, had a dress o 1 8in generations, but has never been presided rich white satin , the skirt embroidered .

over by no more gracious and popular deep, with turquoises and brilliants , a pow C a wi h telaine than the present Countess . Lady dered g, and the same jewels in her hair . E va Ea Warwick looked very beautiful as Marie Lady Dugdale, sister to the rl of V - in - Antoinette (the consort of Louis X I . o f Warwick , and lady waiting to Her Royal F x o f rance) in a petticoat and corsage o f e qu i Highness the Duchess York, wore a Louis E a site nglish brocade, with design of S haded Quinze white satin dress, covered with pink e n su ite roses, enriched with gold thread on a pearl roses, corsage fastened with large

Th . coloured ground . e train of royal blue diamond ornaments A silver trellis pattern

velvet, embroidered in gold thread with the was worked round the hem of the skirt, and fle u r- - S de lis, was attached to the houlders by a white silk mittens and shoes completed the o f band diamonds ; and the Warwick jewels , costume . Lady Rosslyn chose a white o n diamond stars, were arranged the corsage embroidered muslin petticoat, the overdress fle cke d fich u veiled with gold gauze, which was of pink and red striped silk , and ruches

ff . also employed for the pu ed Sleeves . Her of black lisse, and a picturesque hat Lady ff Fl elaborate white coi ure was surmounted by o Sturt , as Madame la Marquise de Pom a do u r a white muslin cap edged with blue velvet p , was in rich cream satin , with bodice and adorned with diamond aigrettes and and sleeves of antique lace, and stomacher f o . plumes pink , white, and blue feathers . of diamonds A black satin toque, with o f Lady Marjorie Greville (the only daughter o f aigrette diamonds, contrasted well with

Lord and Lady Warwick) with Miss Hamilton the white wig . Count Deym , the Austrian - T E . acted as train bearers . hey wore the Ambassador, was in nglish Court dress da e e o f c o P o f P inti st whit costumes the period , m rince Henry less, in mousquetaire cos G 2 I F F AS H 84 THE E VOL U T ON O I ON .

V B ra e l o n n e o f E tume, represented the icomte de g . given by members the nglish aristocracy T h e Duke of Manchester was in white satin in honour o f the sixtieth year o f the reign o f V l breeches, waistcoat to match , bordered with Queen ictoria, was a Costume Bal at o f o n 2 n d gold , and coat white and silver brocade Devonshire House, Piccadilly, July , 1 8 u o f with moss roses and foliage . 9 7, when the D ke and Duchess Th e scene inside the Castle wa s o n e o f Devonshire received nearly all the members wh o o f F unparalleled brilliancy, while those the Royal amily, many distinguished u o f glanced from the mullioned windows saw by g ests from the Colonies, and members T bright moonlight the Avon frozen , the ancient the Corps Diplomatique . his historic c o f edars glistening with frost, and the surround mansion was built for the third Duke T h e wa s Ge o ia n a ing country wrapped in a snowy mantle . Devonshire , and it here that g , u o f entire gro nd floor the Castle wa s thrown the beautiful Duchess of Devonshire, held f n o t o . o open , and pains were spared give as her Court It contains a fine suite recep complete a representation as possible of the tion rooms on the first floor ; a gallery o f e o f o l d gorgeous f tes which made the Court pictures, in which the masters are well A Marie ntoinette famous throughout Europe . represented ; and extensive grounds in the Th e c o n finest spe tacle presented itself when rear, which this occasion were decorated the guests assembled at supper in the o a k with thousands o f Chinese lanterns and fairy f f . Th e o lined hall , where the light o a thousand lamps principal feature the ball was wa s o f candles reflected in the bright steel a grand procession the guests , headed by

armour which surrounded the walls . Several the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, the V o f high screens, hung with Beauvais tapestry former personating Charles . Germany, O m a n ifi and shaded by huge palms , filled the angles and the latter attired with riental g o f Z the hall , and the stone walls were partially cence as enobia, Queen of Palmyra, in a o f concealed by yellow and silver embroideries . robe silver tissue wrought with jewels . o n Th e wa s o f o f In the huge fireplace logs crackled , and mantle cloth gold similarly

small round tables were placed silver can treated , and the bodice was also studded e l a bra Th - d with crimson shades and floral deco with precious stones . e head dress con t o f o f rations, consis ing scarlet geraniums and sisted white ostrich plumes and a golden - Th . e wa s maiden hair fern centre table and jewelled crown , from which depended f r o o f H R . H reserved Marie Antoinette and her Court, chains pearls . . . the Princess of o f o f V and here was the choicest display family Wales, as Margaret alois , was surrounded

plate, including, amongst other valuable by the ladies of her Court, their Royal ’ specimens of the goldsmith s art, a golden Highnesses Princess Charles of Denmark, F V o f o f cup modelled by Benvenuto Cellini . rom Princess ictoria Wales , the Duchess

- F . Th e the hall you entered the Red Drawing room , ife, and the Duchess of York o f o f which contains a marble table, inlaid with Princess Wales wore a gown white o f flowers and fruit, and formerly the property satin wrought with silver, and a train cloth o f A N f Marie ntoinette . ext is the Cedar o gold lined with S ilver and superbly

- H R . H o f o n . . . Drawing room , used as the ball room , jewelled the Prince Wales, as whose walls are many family portraits and Grand Master o f the Knights Hospitallers of V o f other paintings by andyck ; the remainder St . John Jerusalem and Chevalier o f o f o f E the suite State apartments were used as Malta , wore a rich lizabethan costume

- with drawing rooms between the dances ; and carried out in black and silver, and bearing o f O S at the opposite end of the Castle is the Library, the white cross the rder on one houlder . ’ - Th f E the Billiard room , and the Countess s lovely e Duke o York represented the arl o f ’ Bo tido ir o n e o f E Louis Seize , in ivory tints, with Cumberland , Queen lizabeth s o f festoons delicately shaded flowers . courtiers . Prince Charles of Denmark was a o n Th e o f Dancing was carried with great Spirit Danish student . Duke Connaught i o f till early morning, and the tardy w nter sun wore the uniform a military commander o f E had risen ere the last carriage drove away during the reign lizabeth , and the from one o f the most successful balls o f the Duchess looked charming as Queen Anne of

nineteenth century . Austria in a picturesque gown with pu fle d

Among the manyimportant e ntertainments sleeves . Th e Eastern Queens were m a gn ifi F F S HI THE E VOL U TI ON O A ON . 85

c c e n tl y arrayed and blazing with jewels . was beautifully dressed in a petticoat of ri h ff E E Lady de Tra ord was Semiramis , mpress white satin and a Court gown of nglish

A o f . of ssyria, in a dress copied from a vase in brocade, with a train Royal blue velvet Th e the British Museum . Princess Henry of hair was powdered, and she was attended o f Pless was Queen Sheba, in a robe and by four pages in white satin suits and three f train o shot purple and gold tissue, elabo cornered hats, bearing over her ladyship a f T ra t e l y embroidered with turquoises and other canopy o blue velvet . his group included o f stones, and wore an Assyrian jewelled head the Duchess Sutherland, as Charlotte ' ' a Co rda in o f cre e Oe CIzzn e dress, decorated with diamond bird and y, a gown red p , a A o f wa s fich u aigrette. nother Queen Sheba Lady muslin and cap, trimmed with point ’ t wo d Al e n o n Cynthia Graham , and there were Cleo lace , and dagger at waist. Lady — c patras Lady de Grey and Mrs . Arthur Westmorland made a lovely Hebe, and Lady Th o f a c c o m F N Paget . e husband the latter Angela orbes, as the Queen of aples, wore E f a n ie d . E o p her as Mark Antony Lady lcho an mpire gown ivory duchesse satin , wa s a Byzantine Queen , Miss Muriel Wilson embroidered with silver and diamonds , and wa s V o f o f Queen ashti , and the Countess a train lilac velvet , edged with jewelled f Th E o . e Dudley, as Queen sther, wore a dress embroidery and lined with satin head e o f white cr pe, embroidered with gold and dress consisted a small jewelled crown and

studded with amethysts, turquoises, and two white feathers . Among many other S pearls . notable costumes hould be mentioned the ’ Th e E a o f Twe e da l e s E liz bethan Court was represented by Marchioness , as the mpress T a s E Lady weedmouth Queen lizabeth , in a Josephine, as she appears in the Coronation N gown copied from a picture in the ational picture at the Louvre, Paris ; the Marchioness wa s o f E Portrait Gallery. Her canopy carried Londonderry, as the mpress Marie T e e by four yeomen in uniforms of crimson , h r se, of Austria, and the Marchioness of ’ ’ m Z black , and gold , copied fro Holbein s etland s , as Queen Henrietta Maria , wife of f Th F ” f E V o e . o picture ield of the Cloth of Gold, Charles I ngland ; iscountess Rain f E in the Hampton Court collection . Lord cli fe, as the mpress Catherine II . of Russia, T E weedmouth was the arl of Leicester, in wore white satin, and her dress was an exact slashed doublet and hose of ruby velvet and copy of the picture in the British Museum by Th e satin , enriched with gold embroidery . Lady Lambi. Court gown of the Duchess of Edm o n dst o n e a o f , as M ry Queen Scots, wore Portland, as Duchesse de Savoia , who headed o f V o f a dress pale blue velvet , and tulle veil the enetian procession , was composed d ff k head ress and ru wor ed with pearls . She white satin veiled, with lisse wrought with o f S S was attended by the Duchess Hamilton, ilver, partially covered by a ilver cloth o f dressed in the character Mary Hamilton , mantle, embroidered with pearls and dia ’ h . T e the Queen s favourite maid of honour monds, and diamonds and emeralds were C o f ff ountess Warwick , as Marie Antoinette , introduced in the coi ure .

CHAPTE R X .

T S AG E A N D F LO RA L C O ST U M E .

0 THE E VOL (I T/ N OF FAS HI 9 O ON .

o f be involved in furthering dramatic interests capable controlling every gesture , and of T h e wh o S - public, have for the last ixty years charming us with their well modulated voices. Ou r been catered for so generously , are some lives are cheered by viewing the comic t difli c u l t ie s S o f o n o u r imes apt to overlook the with ide things, and clothing and which the scenic artist has to contend . household possessions , the stage has also laid

It would be impossible within the circum a refining hand . s cribed limit o f a single volume to minutely d escribe even the most notable theatrical O RA CO T L L M E . c o f F S U S ostumes the last half century, but a few o f the most effective floral costumes will be

A O . a ppended for the benefit o f those wh o desire P PPY t o Th e o f introduce them into various entertain bodice and skirt red accordion , ’ m m o u sse/i n c: a e soie ents . pleated , the petals of the

T h e steady patronage o f Her Majesty the flower and belt in bright red silk . Large Queen and the Royal Family silk poppies appear on the o n e have done much to remove any shoulders and bust, and prejudices which existed against o f extra size is used for a

- the drama, and as a powerful head dress . With this cos a uxiliary to education the tume neat black shoes and silk s tage is rapidly gaining ground. stockings should be worn , and

- Dull , indeed , must the theatre a palm leaf fan covered with goer be if he leaves without poppies and foliage should be having assimilated some valu carried . T a ble lesson . o Shakespeare we o we many ideal types of LILY OF T HE V ALLE Y womanhood , all the more Corsage and skirt o f white u f p recio s now that some o pleated Valenciennes lace t h e in a weaker sex, in an s t i mounted on green silk . A a fo r ble desire progress, some full berthe of the flowers. times neglect those lesser arts White lace hat entirely which in the past proved to covered with these blooms, t hem a shield and buckler. and fan to correspond. T h e classical and historical p ieces allow us to live again E M OSS ROS . in scenes which occurred when t h e wa s o f p world young , and con Gown ink satin , veiled c fl e c ke d vin e us, though the tastes with tulle and with A o f . o f the people were simpler, rose buds ruche moss o f human nature, with its passions A POPPY . roses at the hem the skirt a n d o n . aspirations, has changed and the bodice A Dolly Wh but little . o can deny the moral influence Varden hat trimmed with moss roses and “ ” o f Th e . such plays as Sign o f the Cross, pink ribbon “ ” “ Th e Hypatia, Daughters of Babylon , O E . Vir in iu s r WILD R S g , o those of the Robertson “ ” s o f “ ” o f chool, which Caste and Ours are Dress shot pink and white satin, em e xamples ? A love o f music is not considered broidered o r painted with clusters and trails

o f E o f . a marked trait the nglish nation , yet wild roses and foliage Skirt edged with f have not Italian and comic opera stimulated full ruche o pink tulle studded with roses, z u re a desire fo r a concord of sweet sounds among and corsage trimmed to correspond . Co f ’ all classes o f the community ? Such plays as po u a ré dressed with small basket o f roses and ” “ Patience and the Mikado have de pink ribbon . v e 10 e d o u r p instinct for colour and form , and

TE O E . we are tau ght the value of industry and WHI R S

i we - restra nt when watch well trained actors, Gown with Watteau train of white satin L TI F F HI I 1 THE E VO U ON O AS O V. 9

w o f S c edged ith leaveless roses, chains the tulle strewn with tiny hamro ks , and a

same flowers carried across the front o f the Coronet o f the same in the hair .

- dress, and outlining the square cut bodice , T H E E T T . f HIS L and elbow Sleeves . Ru ffles o lace . A

f o f . Th e wreath o white roses in the p owdered hair, High dress eau de nil satin skirt o f and a crook decorated with flowers and edged with a wreath thistles, which are o n ribbon streamers . also embroidered in a bold design the f front o gown and bodice . Satin hat trimmed

U E O E . S MM R R S S b n ff with thistles and rib o , and black sta tied

- f a n d . Gown o cream coloured brocade, with with thistles ribbon streamers r

design in Shaded roses and foliage , trimmed DANDE LION. with garland o f roses o f different tints em in o f f bedded tulle . Décolleté corsage trimmed Gown yellow accordion , pleated chif on o n o f to correspond , and a damask rose worn in finished the skirt with trails flowers from t o o f the hair. the waist hem the skirt, interspersed with the seed pods com m only known as blow

F E . WILD LOW RS Th e o f f aways . bodice pleated yellow chi fon o f Dress pale blue satin , veiled with green with dandelions across the berthe and clusters

- - T o f o n . tulle . rails forget me nots , poppies, the shoulders A wreath and aigrette to

marguerites, buttercups , and grass depending corresp ond . - o f S from the waist belt to edge kirt , and IRIS. bodice trimmed to correspond . A Leghorn o f m hat garnished with wild flowers , grass , and Dress white satin , veiled with auve k T f f fle c e d . o blue ribbons . chif on , with iris petals rails mauve and white flowers tied with bows o f A E N . GARD I S satin in alternate hades , and carried across

, a t o Greek dress o f white crepe de Chine the S kirt . Squ re cut corsage correspond, A embroidered in classical design with S ilver and elbow sleeves . muslin cap trimmed

In front diagonal trails o f gardenias and their with the same flowers . Powdered hair. dark foliage arranged from the right shoulder

. t o o f Th e LILAC left side dress . hair bound with S t o o f ilver bands . A shower bouquet corre Gown cream satin brocaded with mauve ff spo n d. and white lilac, Marie Antoinette, white chi on fich u o f , and cap trimmed with clusters T HE SH AMROCK . E shaded lilac and foliage . lbow sleeves with f e Th e Gown o emerald green satin appliqu d chiffon ruffles . white satin fan painted h fi t S f . t o c u c e with velvet hamrocks o a darker shade orrespond , and ca ght by a flower Th e Th e stomacher a large trefoil in emeralds, laine . hair dressed with the same S o f and the short leeves cut to resemble the flowers, and a twisted scarf mauve and

ff . Irish emblem . Corsage veiled with green white chi on

E . C . P E . R E VEIR R AY TOKE E E E E RINT D BY G S , G S PLAC , F TT R LAN ,