Analysis on Standardization and Individualization of Nation Wear
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The Textiles of the Han Dynasty & Their Relationship with Society
The Textiles of the Han Dynasty & Their Relationship with Society Heather Langford Theses submitted for the degree of Master of Arts Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences Centre of Asian Studies University of Adelaide May 2009 ii Dissertation submitted in partial fulfilment of the research requirements for the degree of Master of Arts Centre of Asian Studies School of Humanities and Social Sciences Adelaide University 2009 iii Table of Contents 1. Introduction.........................................................................................1 1.1. Literature Review..............................................................................13 1.2. Chapter summary ..............................................................................17 1.3. Conclusion ........................................................................................19 2. Background .......................................................................................20 2.1. Pre Han History.................................................................................20 2.2. Qin Dynasty ......................................................................................24 2.3. The Han Dynasty...............................................................................25 2.3.1. Trade with the West............................................................................. 30 2.4. Conclusion ........................................................................................32 3. Textiles and Technology....................................................................33 -
Identification of Asian Garments in Small Museums
AN ABSTRACTOF THE THESIS OF Alison E. Kondo for the degree ofMaster ofScience in Apparel Interiors, Housing and Merchandising presented on June 7, 2000. Title: Identification ofAsian Garments in Small Museums. Redacted for privacy Abstract approved: Elaine Pedersen The frequent misidentification ofAsian garments in small museum collections indicated the need for a garment identification system specifically for use in differentiating the various forms ofAsian clothing. The decision tree system proposed in this thesis is intended to provide an instrument to distinguish the clothing styles ofJapan, China, Korea, Tibet, and northern Nepal which are found most frequently in museum clothing collections. The first step ofthe decision tree uses the shape ofthe neckline to distinguish the garment's country oforigin. The second step ofthe decision tree uses the sleeve shape to determine factors such as the gender and marital status ofthe wearer, and the formality level ofthe garment. The decision tree instrument was tested with a sample population of 10 undergraduates representing volunteer docents and 4 graduate students representing curators ofa small museum. The subjects were asked to determine the country oforigin, the original wearer's gender and marital status, and the garment's formality and function, as appropriate. The test was successful in identifying the country oforigin ofall 12 Asian garments and had less successful results for the remaining variables. Copyright by Alison E. Kondo June 7, 2000 All rights Reserved Identification ofAsian Garments in Small Museums by Alison E. Kondo A THESIS submitted to Oregon State University In partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master ofScience Presented June 7, 2000 Commencement June 2001 Master of Science thesis ofAlison E. -
Chinese Popular Romance in Greater East Asia, 1937-1945 Chun-Yu Lu Washington University in St
Washington University in St. Louis Washington University Open Scholarship Arts & Sciences Electronic Theses and Dissertations Arts & Sciences Spring 5-15-2016 Make Love and War: Chinese Popular Romance in Greater East Asia, 1937-1945 Chun-Yu Lu Washington University in St. Louis Follow this and additional works at: https://openscholarship.wustl.edu/art_sci_etds Part of the Asian Studies Commons, East Asian Languages and Societies Commons, Feminist, Gender, and Sexuality Studies Commons, Film and Media Studies Commons, Gender and Sexuality Commons, and the South and Southeast Asian Languages and Societies Commons Recommended Citation Lu, Chun-Yu, "Make Love and War: Chinese Popular Romance in Greater East Asia, 1937-1945" (2016). Arts & Sciences Electronic Theses and Dissertations. 800. https://openscholarship.wustl.edu/art_sci_etds/800 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Arts & Sciences at Washington University Open Scholarship. It has been accepted for inclusion in Arts & Sciences Electronic Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Washington University Open Scholarship. For more information, please contact [email protected]. WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY IN ST. LOUIS Department of East Asian Languages and Cultures Committee on Comparative Literature Dissertation Examination Committee: Lingchei Letty Chen, Chair Robert E Hegel, Co-Chair Rebecca Copeland Diane Lewis Zhao Ma Marvin Marcus Make Love and War: Chinese Popular Romance in “Greater East Asia,” 1937-1945 by Chun-yu Lu A dissertation presented to the Graduate School of Arts & Sciences of Washington University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy May 2016 St. Louis, Missouri © 2016, Chun-yu Lu Table of Content Acknowledgments ................................................................................................. -
Fit and Appearance of Multi-Layered Cultural Garments
Journal of Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology Research Article Open Access Comparing physical to virtual: fit and appearance of multi-layered cultural garments Abstract Volume 6 Issue 2 - 2020 This study sought to expand the use of virtual technology to include multi-layered non- Bai Li, Kelly Cobb, Huantian Cao western cultural garments and compare these complex garments, physically and virtually. Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies, The University of In addition, 3D simulation of non-western garments could benefit the emerging Chinese Delaware, USA market. The study included five parts: material selection, avatar customization, physical multi-layered garment construction, virtual multi-layered garment construction, and Correspondence: Kelly Cobb, Department of Fashion and evaluation of the physical and virtual garment appearance and fit using an online survey. Apparel Studies, The University of Delaware, USA, Tel 302-831- This study found that multi-layered cultural garments could be relatively effectively 6132, Email simulated in virtual software, such as EFI Optitex. Moreover, number of fabric layers did not significantly affect either appearance or fit similarity between virtual and physical Received: March 06, 2020 | Published: April 07, 2020 garments. Based on these results, it can be concluded that virtual presentation has great potential as a tool to evaluate the appearance of a garment in a relatively simple and quick way. Keywords: fit, appearance, garments, 3D virtual prototyping, culture, fashions, apparel Introduction EFI Fabric Library, developing 2D and 3D patterns via EFI Optitex pattern drafting software, creating physical and virtual garments, and The traditional model of apparel product development requires conducting an on-campus survey. -
The Andaman, Langkawi: the Perfect Island Getaway 兰卡威,完美的度假胜地 Advertising Agency Intermediachina Advertising@Tianjinplus
14 The Andaman, Langkawi: The Perfect Island Getaway 兰卡威,完美的度假胜地 Advertising Agency InterMediaChina advertising@tianjinplus. com Publishing Date July 2015 Tianjin Plus is a Lifestyle Magazine. For Members ONLY www. tianjinplus. com ISSN 2076-3743 Nankai University IST offers your children a welcoming, inclusive international school experience, Study your MBA at Nankai University, Tianjin where skilled and committed teachers deliver an outstanding IB education Nankai University’s MBA is designed to prepare • 100% taught in English in an environment of quality learning resources and world-class facilities. business executives of the future for senior • AMBA accreditation leadership positions both in China and globally. • Only two years work experience required Through immersive teaching by specialists in the IST is ... fully accredited by the Council of International Schools (CIS) field, thought-provoking discussions with course • Scholarships available for September intake IST is ... fully authorized as an International Baccalaureate World School (IB) colleagues and challenging hands-on business IST is ... fully accredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC) exercises, you will further advance your problem- IST is ... a full member of the following China and Asia wide international school associations: solving capabilities, enhance your strategic business To make an enquiry or apply please email: ACAMIS, ISAC, ISCOT and EARCOS foresight, and nurture your entrepreneurial drive [email protected] to become a truly -
Application and Development of Korean and Vietnamese Traditional Patterns on Necktie Design
Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association Vol. 12 No. 1 (2010) pp.61~76 Application and Development of Korean and Vietnamese Traditional Patterns on Necktie Design Pham Ho Mai AnhㆍYoun-Soon Lee+* Ph.D. Candidate, Dept. of Clothing & Fashion, Yeungnam Univesity Prof., Dept. of Clothing & Fashion, Yeungnam Univesity+* 한국 및 베트남 전통문양을 응용한 넥타이 디자인 개발 팜 호 메이안ㆍ이연순+* 영남대학교 의류학과 대학원 박사과정ㆍ영남대학교 의류학과 교수+* (2009. 11. 17. 접수; 2009. 12. 23. 수정; 2009. 12. 28. 채택) Abstract 세계적으로 넥타이는 착용자의 이미지를 표상하게 됩니다. 따라서 특히 넥타이 디자인에 각국의 문화적 요소를 활용하는 것이 문화적 이미지의 패션 상품 디자인과 함께 매우 중요하다. 본 연구의 목적은 한국 및 베트남의 전통문양을 학습에 적용 및 전통적인 문양에 관심을 더 이해 할 수 있게 도와 연구팀은 이러한 문양을 활용하여 특별하고 양국의 문화를 내표한 고유하고 세련 된 넥타이를 개발하고자 함이다. 우리는 또한 한국 및 베트남 전통문양 사이의 상징성 의미가 특히 유사한 문양을 설계도면 방법차이를 발견했다. 따라서 한국 및 베트남 문양 사이의 조합의 경우, 본 연구뿐만 아니라 국가의 특정 문화에 기여하는 다른 나라에 한국 및 베트남문양에 대한 미학의 측 면을 소개하였다. 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다: 첫째, 한국 및 베트남 전통문양이 미학적, 실용성 및 문화유산의 가치가 있음을 알 수 있었다. 둘 째, 한국 및 베트남 전통문양의 소재로는 식물, 동물(조류, 곤충, 상상의 동물, 길상형상 및 문자, 기 하형태 등이 있다. 셋째, 한국전통 기하문양의 태극문양과 베트남의 전통기하문양의 특별한 기원과 행운, 창조의 조화 등 의미가 있으며, 이들 각각의 문양은 국기에 사용되어 현대에 이르기 까지 양 국가를 상징하는 공통점이 있다. 넷째, 한국 및 베트남의 우호증진을 기원하고 국제경쟁력이 있는 양국의 고유한 문화가 깃든 국제경쟁력이 있는 독특한 넥타이 상품개발을 위해, 양국의 대표적 전통 기하문양인 태극문양과 별문양을 응용하여 넥타이디자인을 행하였다. -
The Cheongsam—The Treasure of Chinese National Apparel
Asian Culture and History January, 2009 The Cheongsam—the Treasure of Chinese National Apparel Hongxia Liu Fashion & Art College Tianjin Polytechnical University No. 66 Chenglin Road, Tianjin 300160, China E-mail: [email protected] Abstract The cheongsam, the typical national apparel of the internal and external harmonious unity, is known as the representative of the Chinese clothing culture. It has expressed the virtuous, elegant, and gentle temperament of the Chinese women through flowing melody, rakish picturesque conception, and strong poetic emotion. The paper studies several aspects of the origin, evolution, techniques and communication to let China and the world know better about cheongsam, the national apparel of China. Keywords: Cheongsam, Nation, Garments Cheongsams, the traditional national apparel, are owned and cherished by all Chinese of all regions. A cheongsam is a special garment favored by people all over the world. Its elegance is known by the Chinese people, and appreciated by the world. The cheongsam, as the Chinese name suggests, refers to the gown that women of Eight Banners wore before Manchu rulers went across Shanhaiguan, the important pass in north part of China. It was actually the daily dress mainly for women of Manchu and Mongolia. Its basic style is loose with standing collar, bottoms on the right chest, long sleeves, and spacious downswing without side vents by linear tailoring. Usually there is decorative embroidery or other colors of lace in the front collar or at the downswing or the mouth of the sleeves. A Chinese Cheongsam, with the oriental artistic aesthetics as the cultural heritage, has displayed various beauties, youthful beauty of young ladies and the maturity of women grow-ups. -
Hanfu Elements in Modern Fashion Design and Innovation
Asian Social Science; Vol. 10, No. 13; 2014 ISSN 1911-2017 E-ISSN 1911-2025 Published by Canadian Center of Science and Education Hanfu Elements in Modern Fashion Design and Innovation Shaoying Hu1 1 College of Textiles & Garments, Southwest University, Chongqing, China Correspondence: Shaoying Hu, College of Textiles & Garments, Southwest University, Chongqing, China. Tel: 86-138-8347-8114. E-mail: [email protected] Received: March 30, 2014 Accepted: April 25, 2014 Online Published: June 25, 2014 doi:10.5539/ass.v10n13p89 URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.5539/ass.v10n13p89 Abstract Combining with Chinese traditional Han costumes and modern fashion, this paper expounds the relationship from the aspects of fashion styles, garment structure, patterns, fabrics, etc. And with different concrete examples, every aspect was made a detail analysis to discuss how Hanfu elements are used in modern fashion design, and we may come to a conclusion that traditional Chinese costume culture is an important source of modern fashion design. Accordingly, we carried on a research on modern fashion design, with having important cultural inheritance value and design significance for modern dress. Keywords: Han costume, elements, modern fashion design, features 1. Introduction Hanfu, also known as "Hanzhuang" or "Huafu", is namely national costume of Han Chinese people. The concept of Hanfu is distinguished from the broader concept of traditional Chinese clothing. The ancient Chinese called Hanfu as Yiguan. As the ancient Hu people’s traditional costume to be known as "Hufu", the Han Chinese traditional dress is referred to as "Hanfu". The succession of Hanfu elements in fashion is called as the fashion localization with Hanfu elements, also known as modern Han-style fashion. -
Sự Tiếp Biến Trong Nghệ Thuật Thiết Kế Áo Dài Của Phụ Nữ Việt Từ Những Năm 1930 Đến Năm 2017
BỘ GIÁO DỤC VÀ ĐÀO TẠO BỘ VĂN HÓA, THỂ THAO VÀ DU LỊCH VIỆN VĂN HÓA NGHỆ THUẬT QUỐC GIA VIỆT NAM Nguyễn Thị Loan SỰ TIẾP BIẾN TRONG NGHỆ THUẬT THIẾT KẾ ÁO DÀI CỦA PHỤ NỮ VIỆT TỪ NHỮNG NĂM 1930 ĐẾN NĂM 2017 LUẬN ÁN TIẾN SĨ NGHỆ THUẬT Hà Nội – 2020 BỘ GIÁO DỤC VÀ ĐÀO TẠO BỘ VĂN HÓA, THỂ THAO VÀ DU LỊCH VIỆN VĂN HÓA NGHỆ THUẬT QUỐC GIA VIỆT NAM Nguyễn Thị Loan SỰ TIẾP BIẾN TRONG NGHỆ THUẬT THIẾT KẾ ÁO DÀI CỦA PHỤ NỮ VIỆT TỪ NHỮNG NĂM 1930 ĐẾN NĂM 2017 Chuyên ngành: Lý luận và Lịch sử Mỹ thuật Mã số: 9210101 LUẬN ÁN TIẾN SĨ NGHỆ THUẬT Người hướng dẫn khoa học: PGS. TS. Đoàn Thị Tình TS. Trần Thủy Bình Hà Nội – 2020 i LỜI CAM ĐOAN Tôi xin cam đoan bản luận án tiến sĩ với đề tài: Sự tiếp biến trong nghệ thuật thiết kế áo dài của phụ nữ Việt từ những năm 1930 đến năm 2017 là công trình do chính tôi viết. Tôi xin chịu trách nhiệm về lời cam đoan này. Hà Nội, ngày tháng năm 2020 Tác giả luận án Nguyễn Thị Loan ii DANH MỤC CHỮ VIẾT TẮT Chữ viết tắt Chữ viết đầy đủ BST Bộ sưu tập GS Giáo sư H Hình PGS Phó giáo sư PL Phụ lục NCS Nghiên cứu sinh NTK Nhà thiết kế Nxb Nhà xuất bản TK Thế kỷ TS Tiến sĩ tr Trang iii MỤC LỤC Trang LỜI CAM ĐOAN……………………………………………………… i DANH MỤC CHỮ VIẾT TẮT……………………………………….. -
Clothing Terms from Around the World
Clothing terms from around the world A Afghan a blanket or shawl of coloured wool knitted or crocheted in strips or squares. Aglet or aiglet is the little plastic or metal cladding on the end of shoelaces that keeps the twine from unravelling. The word comes from the Latin word acus which means needle. In times past, aglets were usually made of metal though some were glass or stone. aiguillette aglet; specifically, a shoulder cord worn by designated military aides. A-line skirt a skirt with panels fitted at the waist and flaring out into a triangular shape. This skirt suits most body types. amice amice a liturgical vestment made of an oblong piece of cloth usually of white linen and worn about the neck and shoulders and partly under the alb. (By the way, if you do not know what an "alb" is, you can find it in this glossary...) alb a full-length white linen ecclesiastical vestment with long sleeves that is gathered at the waist with a cincture aloha shirt Hawaiian shirt angrakha a long robe with an asymmetrical opening in the chest area reaching down to the knees worn by males in India anklet a short sock reaching slightly above the ankle anorak parka anorak apron apron a garment of cloth, plastic, or leather tied around the waist and used to protect clothing or adorn a costume arctic a rubber overshoe reaching to the ankle or above armband a band usually worn around the upper part of a sleeve for identification or in mourning armlet a band, as of cloth or metal, worn around the upper arm armour defensive covering for the body, generally made of metal, used in combat. -
Busana Kasual Gaya Hanbok Kombinasi Motif Sakura Dan Lurik Sebagai Upaya Penyetaraan Status Sosial
BUSANA KASUAL GAYA HANBOK KOMBINASI MOTIF SAKURA DAN LURIK SEBAGAI UPAYA PENYETARAAN STATUS SOSIAL Publikasi Karya Ilmiah Jurnal Karya Seni Tri Hartati NIM 1411787022 PROGRAM STUDI S-1 KRIYA SENI JURUSAN KRIYA FAKULTAS SENI RUPA INSTITUT SENI INDONESIA YOGYAKARTA 2018 UPT Perpustakaan ISI Yogyakarta UPT Perpustakaan ISI Yogyakarta 1 BUSANA KASUAL GAYA HANBOK KOMBINASI MOTIF SAKURA DAN LURIK SEBAGAI UPAYA PENYETARAAN STATUS SOSIAL Tri Hartati 1411787022 INTISARI Pemikiran masyarakat modern saat ini masih memandang orang lain dari penampilan luarnya saja. Sebagian orang mau menerima orang lain masuk dalam kelompoknya jika sesuai dengan standar yang ditetapkan. Busana digunakan untuk membedakan diri, tetapi bukan untuk memisahkan diri. Hanbok dipilih sebagai ide gaya busana yang diciptakan yaitu busana kasual karena memiliki tingkatan yang menunjukkan status sosial pemakainya. Hal tersebut selain sebagai kritik terhadap orang yang hanya memandang sebelah mata pada orang lain, juga sebagai upaya penyetaraan status sosial di masyarakat modern ini. Penciptaan busana ini didasarkan atas pendekatan estetika yang membahas dari sudut pandang seni, dan pendekatan ergonomi yang membahas mengenai keamanan, kenyamanan, dan keluwesan dalam berbusana. Busana yang diciptakan melalui metode penciptaan ‘practiced based research’ ini diciptakan oleh Gray. Metode tersebut menonjolkan penelitian atau riset terlebih dahulu sebelum berkarya, dan proses pengerjaannya secara konvensional. Hasil yang dicapai yaitu terciptanya delapan set busana yang didominasi warna cerah dengan warna berbeda. Setiap set terdiri dari dua bagian, yaitu jaket dan busana, baik celana dan atasan maupun gaun. Perpaduan lurik dan batik tulis motif sakura menjadi pengembangan busana yang ditawarkan, selain model busana yang dapat dipakai pada dua sisi, yaitu sisi dalam dan luar. Kata Kunci: hanbok, busana kasual, lurik, sakura, penyetaraan status sosial UPT Perpustakaan ISI Yogyakarta 2 ABSTRACT Modern people in our society nowadays still judge the books from the covers only. -
The Nineteenth Century (History of Costume and Fashion Volume 7)
A History of Fashion and Costume The Nineteenth Century Philip Steele The Nineteenth Century Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Copyright © 2005 Bailey Publishing Associates Ltd Steele, Philip, 1948– Produced for Facts On File by A history of fashion and costume. Bailey Publishing Associates Ltd The Nineteenth Century/Philip Steele 11a Woodlands p. cm. Hove BN3 6TJ Includes bibliographical references and index. Project Manager: Roberta Bailey ISBN 0-8160-5950-0 Editor:Alex Woolf 1. Clothing and dress—History— Text Designer: Simon Borrough 19th century. 2. Fashion—History— Artwork: Dave Burroughs, Peter Dennis, 19th century. Tony Morris GT595.S74 2005 Picture Research: Glass Onion Pictures 391/.009/034—dc 22 Consultant:Tara Maginnis, Ph.D. 2005049453 Associate Professor of the University of Alaska, Fairbanks, and creator of the website,The The publishers would like to thank Costumer's Manifesto (http://costumes.org/). the following for permission to use their pictures: Printed and bound in Hong Kong. Art Archive: 17 (bottom), 19, 21 (top), All rights reserved. No part of this book may 22, 23 (left), 24 (both), 27 (top), 28 be reproduced or utilized in any form or by (top), 35, 38, 39 (both), 40, 41 (both), any means, electronic or mechanical, including 43, 44, 47, 56 (bottom), 57. photocopying, recording, or by any information Bridgeman Art Library: 6 (left), 7, 9, 12, storage or retrieval systems, without permission 13, 16, 21 (bottom), 26 (top), 29, 30, 36, in writing from the publisher. For information 37, 42, 50, 52, 53, 55, 56 (top), 58. contact: Mary Evans Picture Library: 10, 32, 45.