The Silent Production of Cluj-Napoca

CEU eTD Collection W In partial ALKING TOWARDS TOWARDS ALKING Supervisors: Andreas Dafinger and Vlad Naumescu Department ofSociology Social and Anthropology PRODUCTION OF OF PRODUCTION fulfillment of the requirements forfulfillment ofthe Master thedegreeArts of of Central European University Budapest, Hungary Submitted to Anna BalázsAnna 2015 By E

C UROPE

LUJ

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APOCA T

HE SILENT HE SILENT

CEU eTD Collection dynamics between time, I show how conflicting historical narratives intervene in the process, resulting in a specific postsocialist urban restructuring which recreates the city as a center of as Cluj reproduce to position i parts of the historical and spatial legacy of Cluj to create their own version of the city, and their space. that produced which silent of form recreates a that production as tours walking urban regard I practices, everyday of theory Certeau’s of object an as space urban constituting memory, Cluj of city the direction of individual practice. structural forces of consecutive historical periods presentThe n the field of social memory affects their interpretation. I argue that both projects aim work explores the potential of individual agency to act in a space produced by spaceproduced a in act agencyto individual of potential the explores work - aoa wee conflicting where Napoca, discourses of nationalism and multiculturalism. ofnationalism and discourses a place of diversity and cultural significance, realizing the agenda of of agenda the realizing significance, cultural and diversity of place a

urban space in space urban

Focusing on the narratives of the walks, I explore how they use use they how explore I walks, the of narratives the on Focusing

I study the activity of urban walking tours in the Romanian Abstract its own ways own its ethno i -

ainl hi national , and the role opposing

while being determined by the structure the by determined being while tre rsl i a ls o social of clash a in result stories intepretations. intepretations. of social memory in influencing

consumption; consumption; at the same Using Michel de de Michel Using the the

CEU eTD Collection andFerenc obviously, Markó Dávid forherea taking me all my family neverending forK; Ana support,including their BarbaraBenczewritingBerlin; for table her in their homewith meforwhile; a fromgirls Annaand Kupásthe research stories withme; andtheir sharing Bolog,Cristina MariaLoredana Talpos Zapartantheirtomy andRoxana time for dedicating Boglárka Veress,Ujvári,Barazsuly,Zsófia DorottyaViktóriaImecs Eszter Gál, their continuingand inspiringonmy support comments AndreasNaumescu, Vlad Dafinger, Jean the supportgratitude: who ofseveral deserve people words my isaresultThis thesis ofa

long

, exciting Acknowledgements Strada BartokStradaBela forgenerosity their incredible toshare

and sometimes unnervingandcompleted sometimes with process, - Louis Fabiani,Louis AlinaCucu and Buier for Natalia

work; nd ever further.nd ever

- Magdó, CEU eTD Collection References Conclusion Chapter 4.Walking Narratives Chapter 3.Walking Tactics Chapter 2. Case background Chapter 1. Theoretical framework Introduction Acknowledgements Abstract 1.1. 4.4. Three ofCluj versions 4.3. Korzo,PlacesRevolution ofthe 4.2. Korzo,Cinema inCluj Guided Tours,4.1. Cluj General City Tour Guided Tours3.2. Cluj 3.1. Korzo 1.2.

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47 44 41 37 35 31 30 25 18 18 13

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CEU eTD Collection the in saw I what experience: childhood my to unrelated not research, previous by addressed of object an as space Urban meanings. such modify and produce to invested practice social the and meanings symbolic of medium a as environment urban the investigating space, of angle the from Cluj about discussion the enters work present The Péter 2006;PetroviciVer and 2011; Pásztor multi a in memory of working the study to points entry of variety a postsocialist providing that, of before even time and transition the since space urban and history identity, nationalism, on debates int of center the in been has Cluj of city the that showed investigations preliminary My until today, providing an object to discover in a less naive way by the means of social research. w ancient in animals sea Romanian national symbols in the public space that envisaged Hungarians as hiding and sparse differently changed sentimental, preswas it but majorityhistory, courseof the place as a kind of Atlantis to me, where one can find traces of a hidden past that disappeared in the constructed state Hungarian the by behind left Hungarians Transylvanian of puzzle The first time, and I found it almost incomprehensible to be abroad and still in a the for Hungary of borders the outside community Hungarian a of existence the encountered the nostalgia, nationalist Hungarian and dust postsocialist in covered buildings century 19th and Romanian tricolor furniture,street bundles of electric cables openly displayed over the houses, had I research, my of object auto an as starts work present The reason that took me to the city on the occasion of a school trip. My 14 years old self self old years 14 My trip. school a of occasion the on city the to me took that reason - ethnic city ethnic aters. The unsettling experience of multi of experience unsettling The aters. in mind a more than 10 years old memory about a city full of of full city a about memory old years 10 than more a mind in

(Brubaker et al. 2006; Faje 2011; Feischmidt 2002; Kalb 2011; Kalb 2002; Feischmidt 2011; Faje 2006; al. et (Brubaker – -

ethnography: when I decided to take Cluj take to decided I when ethnography: hs eln ws ny nesfe b te overwhelming the by intensified only was feeling this Introduction dery 1996) dery erved in the minority community, or in to be lessbe to minorityin the or in community, erved 1

ethnic space stayed with me me with stayed space ethnic symbolic struggle has been been has struggle symbolic context context so familiar. - Napoca as the the as Napoca ense ense CEU eTD Collection following way: the in questions research main two my constituting practices, everyday organizing in memory multi structure, modifying it theirto own ends while being determined by it. My initial interest in the power local the within operating tactics individual tactics individual of series a production, s of form a as Cluj in tours walking urban study I (1984), Certeau de Michel of work the manifestation of subject position in the complicated matrix of attitudes and identities. Based on r social local of context the in explained power of operations spatial the address approaches these of both aspects, different from Although city. the to right their reclaim to Cluj of suburbs the in class working public space was motivated by the demands of an symbolicfightover the that arguingglobalprocesses, andregional groundingthe of lackin its for approach this criticized (2011) Petrovici Norbert views. essentialist of instead ethnicity of u situational a for advocating people, of interactions everyday the in rhetoric this influenceof practicallyinvisible the anddiscourse, political of thelevelrhetoricon nationalist Ro class: and ethnicity of perspective the from topic the approached Funar of legacy the with dealing Studies period. following the for Cluj postsocialist of image the determined which act an symbols, nationalist reinscri the was measure infamous most whose summer of 2004 were the last moments of the 12 years long rule of Gheorghe Funar, the mayor  

- ethnic heritage of the place is translated into th into translated is place the of heritage ethnic determined structural by order thebroader Cluj? the processesthat developmentof walking do How How does influence social memory agency? individual acts? it which in structure power the formulate to agencyindividual of potential the is What

gers Brubaker and his colleagues (2006) studied the paradox of intense of paradox the studied (2006) colleagues his and Brubaker gers elations; my aim is to shift the focus towards individual action as a as action individual towards focus the shift to is aim my elations; tour projects reinvent urban space while their agendas are being being are agendas their while space urban reinvent projects tour 2

ption of public space with through Romanian Romanian through with space public of ption economically and symbolically dispossessed e realm of theory as the role of social social of role the as theory of realm e

nderstanding ilent

CEU eTD Collection Péter and agenda; however, their missions are embedded in the structural context characterized by Pásztor argue that both projects emerge from the motivation of its creators to realize their own personal o Certeau de Michel of theory the using the emergence and mission of guiding companies in the light of broader structural processes by Clujean urban space, providing a context for the present object of analysis. Chapter 3 discusses t of background historical the introduces 2 Chapter memory. and Chapter 1 delineates the analytical framework of the study, discussing theories of space, agency meaningful space. withi position young, educated middle class women of Romanian and Hungarian origin to articulate their own by deployed tactics converging often but different the about learn will study present of reader Clu of configuration social complex the within experience gender and class generational, particular very a into insight an offers walks their and companies guide tour of description ethnographic My people. local other and them variou in participated and companies, guide tour the of members April, during that I participated in three tours, conducted seven semi Cluj in fieldwork of weeks three importantly, most and research historical base is study my Therefore, (2010). Vanea and Petrovici and (2006) Péter and Pásztor by in the Clujean urban space, and the structural development of the most recent period delineated companies in the context Cluj two of working the explore I questions, above the answer To their tactics it? within develop and structure the interpret subjects individual way the determine generation How do different narratives of dependingsocialization (2006) as the “postmodernization of Cluj”, and can be regarded as partly a a partly as regarded be can and Cluj”, of “postmodernization the as (2006) te icrie adcp o Cu, n rivn te iy o tesle a a as themselves for city the reinvent and Cluj, of landscape discursive the n

of the members’ personal trajectories, the history of symbolic struggle

j, encountered in a particular historical moment: the moment: historical particular a in encountered j, n everyday practices. Based on ethnographic data, I data, ethnographic on Based practices. everyday n 3

on ethnic background, class and s personal conversations with conversations personal s - - structured interviews with based urban walking tour walking urban based he symbolic struggle for for struggle symbolic he - aoai 2015 in Napoca d on on d CEU eTD Collection findings inthe cont backstage narratives or the subtext of official narratives. the in revealed is position biased ethnically their while level, surface the on Cluj of image My analysis will show that both projects implement history.of interpretations conflicting bydefined space a about narratives of formulation the in about the city. I focus on representations of ethnicity in order to reveal the role of social memory own their create to thepast signifying space elementsuse of theyaspect ofhow from the tours walking by constructed narratives the analyses 4 Chapter context. this of consequence ext ofmyext questions. initial

their stated aim to promote a multicultural The Conclusion synthesizes the above

story CEU eTD Collection as defines Certeau de that consumption of process the through precisely the system subvert dominant to way a find subjects realized: fully never are intentions such that proof a is constituting them as passive consumers. The other form of production de self of territory own their of subjects depriving life, everyday of totality the pr of form dual as structure power the and users between dialectics the of conceives Certeau De challengedacts andinterpretations. by individual are operations power by buildings the in inscribed uses and meanings fixed where this spatiality, in possible become appropriation of Tactics 117). 1984, Certeau (de action human real time unrepeatable, by the actualized practicedparole, place, isthe space temporal and dim movement direction, add which place in operations the of result a is space spaceand place: while place locations, configuration ofdistinct elements isastable in situated logifollowingthe model, This 116). 1984, Certeau (de individuals and groups of practices spatializing the and order spatial structure The grid. and passive as subjects individual of view structuralist the transcend to aiming domination, of structures within act society” of element “dominated In space. in pow and individuals between dynamics the understand to practices everyday on (1984) Certeau de Michel of theory the use I relations, power of field broader a within positions personal of articulation the in plays space urban role the on is focus main my As 1.1. oduction: power is represented by open and extensive systems of production which occupy which production of systems extensive and open by represented is power oduction: ension to the static coexistence of objects. Similarly to the relation between langue and langue between relation the to Similarly objects. of coexistence static the to ension

Walking tactics Walking h Patc o Eeya Life Everyday of Practice The - Chapter 1. agency dichotomy is translated into the realm of space by de Certeau as as Certeau de by space of realm the into translated is dichotomy agency

c of Saussurean linguistics, leads to another distinction between distinction another to leadslinguistics, Saussurean of c Theoretical framework Theoretical , de Certeau focuses on the way how users, the the users, how way the on focuses Certeau de , 5

fully determined by rules of the power power the of rules by determined fully scribed scribed by de Certeau

el o dynamic of realm er as they unfold unfold they as er - realization and realization CEU eTD Collection space. of Belonging to the group representations of touristic practices, the totalizing to contrast a present they agenda, that of realizations fragmented and temporal as still, agenda; spatial flexible, if even planned, consciously a and and flexible spontaneous, a wel in relatively a with actions collective are tours Walking emerge way. unconscious that movements individual from different are W abstract ofpower representations depict which panoramic space inits totality. to contrasted space urban with interaction immediate the walking, of act the is tactics these of achieving full control ov ever of perspective the without possibilities momentary to adjustment continuous a demand existence throughout time, as they have no control over the space dominated by power. Tactics of group This structure. existing the encounter and streets the walk who citizens” “average the namely, actors, distinct and visible as them constitute would that entitlements such without subjects to belong tactics hand, other the On argues: he As establishment. powerful a of strategies the against “other” powerless a of operations pract Subversive xxiii). 1984, Certeau, (de order” economic dominant a by imposed products the using of ways its through rather but products, own its through itself manifest not does “it creation: direct of instead is form This xxii). (1984, production of form another alking tours constitute a specific type of this practice: their dynamics with the urban structure

they being without able write toread it.” are walkers, Wandersmänner, whose bodies follow the thicks and thins of an urban ’tex walk They begins. visibility „The an proprietor, (a xix) power and will of subject enterprise, a when possible becomes “[Strategy]

ordinary practitioners of the city live ’down below’, below the thresholds at which

a city, a scientific institution) can be isolated from an ‘environment’.” er er space. In the realm of a city, the most important symbolic realization ices of this kind are defined by de Certeau as tactics, temporal tactics, as Certeau de by defined are kind this of ices –

an elementary form of this experience of the city; they they city; the of experience this of form elementary an 6 ir ir tactical character becomes easily questioned:

subjects has to manipulate their conditions of conditions their manipulate to has subjects (de 1984,93) Certeau

characterized by practices of adaptation adaptation of practices by characterized

l -

defined purpose purpose defined (1984, (1984, t’ CEU eTD Collection the city throughout time, while others pick a topic which connects different locations within the multilayered the of instead perspectives temporal and spatial broader space, of reading a present also tours narrative is being performed by a tour guide in a frontal, however interactive manner. Therefore, the during told stories the by comprised remains unique and momentary in each of the walks. At the same time, every tour has a narrative the rewrite space, as the act of walking guarantees a form of agency, a spatializing practice that space. Walking tours constitute a sort of middle ground between these two t shaping actively of opportunity the presents practice level street while city, the on perspective it, reading to contrast characteriz in space one’s writing as walking of tactics describes Certeau De which they reinforce challenge and ofbroader this parts framework. ref and context, structural local the in embedded agenda altho subversion, represent both scrutiny under companies two The experience. bodily immediate space of consumption passive reinventing users, and structure between tourist bus and merging one’s body in the street flows creates a more personal, direct interaction 1995) tourism mass Fordist of uniformity overwhelming the to response in character, personal decades last the in emerged have subgenres new certain phenomenon, new a not are tours city guided the present work have specific qualities which provide them with a tactical character. Although narratives created to realiz mainstream reproduce traditionally tours guided background; institutional powerful a and clear with phenomenon strategic a undoubtedly is tourism mass contemporary ugh in different ways: Chapter 3 Chapter ways: different in ugh . The . . The main source of attraction at these tours is the sense of uniqueness, locality and and locality uniqueness, of sense the is tours these at attraction of source main The . ing the latter as a strategic process: maps and towers provide a distant and total and distant a provide towers and maps process: strategic a as latter the ing

act of walking itself introduces a subversive quality to the practice: getting off the the off getting practice: the to quality subversive a introduces itself walking of act

but singular view of the walking individual: some tours depict the development of e the objectives of tourism industry. However, the tours discussed in

will show how CGT and Korzo realize their tactical their realize Korzo and CGT how show will ak n te ot te cet i sae ad this and space, in create they route the and walk 7

lect on the duality of the process in in process the of duality the on lect

ypes of engagement: , at least partly, as as partly, least at , - cut objectives objectives cut

(Urry

CEU eTD Collection Space, space: social of concept his namely, Lefebvre, Henri of work related the by elaborated be can product social a as space of understanding Certeauian The public furnitureyearsFunar fromall belong thesuch constitutivelayers. to Austro building residential setting: ideological particular a represents layer each where Iconceptualization, the urban conceive as space ofCluj a product ofsequential power regimes diff are monuments public and structures street schemes, planning urban relations: power of product a is it that sense the in society of representation a is Space level. first the on focusI here tactics, meaning of these practices (1984, xiv). While or “use”, the and subjects, the of behavior society, of representations levels: three comprising analysis of system a outlines Certeau De structures. power and processes historical of result p a as primarily order this interprets perspective Certeauian the formulated: are they which in order spatial the understand to important is it meanings, these of nature city” readable and planned the of text clear practic individual through unfolds: the regular frames of an allegedly rational order. Urban space is but one stage where this process within insinuated are qualities human intangible how of revealing the in theory, Certeau’s de m the lies Here practices. everyday of meaning subjective the on side of the individual the from action social understand to helps that concept a as relevance obtain tactics Everyday 1.2. dealingwith the mutually determined interactionsofthe and individual power structures. place. walking themas Thisdualnature appropriate toursconstitutes of ob

- Lefebvre conceptualizes space as materialized social relations, produced in a dialectic dialectic a in produced relations, social materialized as space conceptualizes Lefebvre Walking narrativesWalking Hungarian monarchy, housing estates from the Ceaușescu the from estates housing monarchy, Hungarian rn tos n hc pltcl r cnmc oe i mnfse. olwn this Following manifested. is power economic or political which in tools erent –

the Certeauian framework opens a new field of investigation by focusing

es, „a migrational, or metaphorical city [...] slips into the into slips [...] city metaphorical or migrational, „a es, (de Certeau 1984, 93) 1984, Certeau (de I discussed the third level in the above section on 8

ost significant momentum of of momentum significant ost . In order to grasp the very very the grasp to order In . - era, or Romanian tricolor Romanian or era,

in jects ofajects case study

The Production of Production The roduct, a material material a roduct, reflecting on reflecting s from the the from s CEU eTD Collection and objectivity by defined discourse power of form a phenomenon, strategic a is history everyone at the same time (Nora 1992, 9). Connecting Nora to de Certeau, it can no to belonging universal, is history individuals, and groups distinct for relevance its representat a eternalbond tying present;“Memory the perpetually usto historyis a isa phenomenon, actual time: present the to relationship different their in lies concepts two the between distinction fun his In memory. and history on here, and how that past is positioned in relation to the present physical environment. question A immediately arising is what kind of past we are dealing with similar basis, building their narratives by attributing fragments of the a on work tours space.inhabitingWalkingof meansbecomesa past the aboutknowledge how T own meanings tothegiven structure,and past of as serves these thefoundation meanings. city “metaphorical that material of kind what understanding for crucial is space social of dimension temporal time” in genesis its of terms in explained and expounded be can space in itself presenting reality “any summarizes, Lefebvre As space. to dimension institution and own production, social space is loaded by several layers of meaning attributed to it by individual its of process the of trace material a As practices.everyday and power of Certeau’s distinction from action social of level all comprises space interaction between the physical structure and social activity he above section describes a key element in the individual experience of the city, revealing city, the of experience individual the in element key a describes section above he plays moving ofthese layers.” a it form that strata fragmented the among effects these and displacements of byseries composed is it that fact, in place, a of definition very the is it visible: the of seen be can What de absences. diverse of presences like are in live people places “The signates what is no longer there […] Demonstratives indicate the invisible identities invisible the indicate Demonstratives […] there longer no is what signates ion of the past” (1992, 8). While memory is a particular phenomenon defined by defined phenomenon particular a is memory While 8). (1992, past” the of ion al actors: these meanings formulate a temporal sequence, adding another another adding sequence, temporal a formulate meanings these actors: al ” is composed of: in the process of silent production, subjects attribute their attribute subjects production, silent of process the in of: composed is ” aetl ok n eoy Per Nr age ta the that argues Nora Pierre memory, on work damental (de Certeau 1984, 108) Certeau(de 1984, 9

institutions to individuals, transcending de de transcending individuals, to institutions (Lefebvre 1991) – 19, 115) (1991,

a problem explored in the debate past past to certain parts of the Ti dtu o the on detour This . . Lefebvrian social be argued that nd that it that nd - one and and one

CEU eTD Collection The memory. public interprets one how in factor determining a be to seems identification ethnic as here, ethnic networks of sense broader the in understood be to are relations Kinship community. the and the split appears in the realm of social memo memory refers to objective elements of the past which serve public as a basis that of present interpretations, Providing events. of sequence same the in of interpretations result opposing completely histories (ethno)national parallel where Cluj, in manner specific a in interact memory of types two These place. or kinship by related already people public and social memory, the latter referring to the commemoration of a common past between active “an resource and onwhichdiscussion action current draws” (CaseyCasey 2004,25). distinguis horizon”, encircling “an as memory public of understanding Casey’s Edward s determining the and in are we moment historical bythe influenced past, the about think we way the shapes 8) 1994, (Samuel past of dialectic a or embedded are history of ideas which different ways established and strict a as history hierarchical form describes of knowledge production which ignores the diversity o Samuel discourse: social ongoing as history of theory Samuel’s Raphael in elaborated is present of element constitutive a as past of relevance The that connectsthe presen to themfurther relevance situational a obtain they space, physical in narratives these actualizing By levels, drawing on mainstream narratives of history and incorporating them in their own agenda. oper tours walking framework, this In quality. multivocal and subjective a as individuals of side the to belonging tactical, is memory while univocality,

levels of transmitting past experience, as an „ensemble of activities and practices in in practices and activities of „ensemble an as experience, past transmitting of levels tructural forces of the given period. Samuel’s conceptualization is reinforced by reinforced is conceptualization Samuel’s period. given the of forces tructural . In this dialectics memory gains importance as a dynamic force that actively actively that force dynamic a as importance gains memory dialectics this In . 19, 5) (1994,

present work engages in this view of the past as a discursive resource resource discursive a as past the of view this in engages work present H fcltts bodr nesadn o te ocp implying concept the of understanding broader a facilitates He . t.

ry, influenced by the subject’s relation to the place 10

ate as mediators between the two two the between mediators as ate - present relations is rehearsed” rehearsed” is relations present

f processes outside the different, sometimes sometimes different, hes hes CEU eTD Collection effortthis level, th onthe cognitive therefore,they constitute represent Narratives qualities. different genuinely two these between translate to tacticalattempt the of understanding Certeauian the to appropriation: both concepts describe the interaction between outside world corresponds and individual with narrative of definition This interpretation world: ofthe outside describes Tilley Christopher co a into assembled and history of warehouse infinite the from picked are elements which through process selection a always is remembering words, other In discourse. power ruling the and positions personal on depending reformulated permanently being are conten its phenomenon: flexible a is memory discussion, previous the by suggested is it As the therefore, approached, is memoryformulation as of narratives well. public which from perspective the determining subject’s the influences which category which social memory influences the process.I onethnicity focus as a butconstitutive dynamic in are ways exact the what and legacy, historical and spatial given the from interpretations re that utilize tours walking how show I Certeau, de on Based it. to meanings own their attach to individual every for available resource a memories, public of Using the categories introduced by Casey, I will argue that the urban space of Cluj is a medium meanings. private and memories of container a as space of conceptualization Certeau’s de by supported space, in working its explores and context structural contemporary the in deployed 1994, 32) action.” of meaning emplotment the requiring given whole a are into configuration Events their through [...] phenomena. heterogeneous of synthesis a providing linking of means a is It agency. to relation in world the describing and understanding of means a is „Narrative

artv a a osiuie lmn i hmn ecpin and perception human in element constitutive a as narrative locales, landscapes, actions, events and experiences together together experiences and events actions, landscapes, locales,

oiin n h tasiso o sca memory, social of transmission the in position 1 1

e basis ofCerteauian tactics: source by creating their own own their creating by source eet narrative. herent (Tilley

CEU eTD Collection own way. construction by focusing on the way walking tours utilize elements of space and contents. symbolic associated the and cognitive op by informed space: in narrative a of realization ultimate the is itself walking of practice The 115) trajectories.” spatial are They them. of out itineraries and sentences “Stories […] traverse and organize places; they select and link them together; they make

erations of the walker, walking aactualizes route by connecting physical locations

Chapter 4 explores precisely this process of narrative of process this precisely explores 4 Chapter 12

(de Certeau 1984, Certeau (de

history in their - CEU eTD Collection the of part grandiose most The structure. spatial existing the to monument new a or plaque a Romanian national figures have been erected, and Hungarian spaces were reinscribed by adding statues personalities, historical Romanian after renamed were streets level: symbolic a on Cluj of space urban the appropriate to ongoingproject still the of step beginning presentedthe origin. Romanian of Hungarian, German and Jewish bourgeoisie and middle of classes, while the countryside belonged territory to peasants a traditionally were cities foundations, class strong had cleavages cities” “alien of nationalization the included project This ad strengthening of cultural and economic Romanian institutions in order to engender Romanian dominance. new the population, Romanian weak While the Hungarian regime employed assimilation policies in a relatively large politically but regi the in groups ethnic the the between oppression reversing of dynamics state, Romanian the by Transylvania of annexation the acknowledged that 1920 in Trianon of Treaty the by crystallized eventually was conflict This minority. political that led to the creation of Hungarian nation state and strong autonomy claims b present in the region since the rise of the modern nationalism, starting with the 1848 revolution 56) 2006, al. et empires, and finally a border region between Hungarian and Romanian nation states Ottoman and Habsburg the between line protecting the and Christendom, Western of bastion a borderland of great powers throughout history: a periphery of the Roman Emp ideological battles. The greater region of Transylvania where the city is located has always been bet oppression of dynamics shifting and diversity cultural by defined been has history whose city the time: of centuries for back go Cluj of space physical and symbolic the over struggle of roots The ween different classes and ethnic groups had the fate to be objected to constant constant to objected be to fate the had groups ethnic and classes different ween . Ethnic conflicts and various attempts to achieve national autonomy have been been autonomyachieve have national to attempts various and conflicts Ethnic .

h ntoaiig rjc o te is Rmna pro (1920 period Romanian first the of project nationalizing The Chapter 2.

Case backgroundCase 13

iitain a t fcs n the on focus to had ministration (Brubaker et al. 2006, 70) 2006, al. et (Brubaker on (Brubaker et al. 2006, 68) 2006, al. et (Brubaker

y the Romanian ire, the Eastern ; as ethnic ethnic as ; (Brubaker - 1940) of of . CEU eTD Collection p the in city the of mayor nationalist extreme post The also consequencesregarding hadits space. urban and political restructuring led to framework so the legitimate and mobilization ethnic of form Soviet type system facilitated a relatively progressive minority policy, intending to prevent any the oppression, of atmosphere general the besides 1989: in transition the before significantly conflict ethnic However, locals. for identification of matrix complex a create subject, the of position class by motivated them of all and overlapping sometimes categories, Hu 2011) population Romanian ethnographic Petrovici argues Norbert the cityexperienced data, center of was that Cluj by the on Based center. the in remained has community class middle Hungarian significant a while Romanian working class inhabitants moved in structure: class preserved somewhat a with yet 1970s, the by composition spatial and ethnic system political new the cou the from people Romanian of influx great a drawn Cluj like cities the around industrialization place in the region, with an intended side Roma the of setting final the After al. 2006,100) connotations Hungarian its of deprive to difficult too was that center traditional few a center city Romanian new, a of establishment the was project ngarian/Romanian, center/periphery, “original” resident/newcomer (2006, 114); these these 114); (2006, resident/newcomer “original” center/periphery, ngarian/Romanian, ntryside whoconstituted the basis ofthe new workingclass, theideological legitimation of . Brubaker describes the social world of 1970s Cluj as determined by three dichotomies: threeby determined as Cluj 1970s of world social the describes Brubaker . - transitional history of Cluj is inseparable from the activity of Gheorghe Funar, the the Funar, Gheorghe of activity the from inseparable is Cluj of history transitional (Brubaker et al. 2006, 81) 2006, al. et (Brubaker .

as a “Hungarian space” even in the late years of socialism socialism of years late the in even space” “Hungarian a as (Kideckel 2008) (Kideckel a radical disruption of the existing social system, a process that nian borders in 1945, socialist modernization policies took policies modernization socialist 1945, in borders nian . The collapse of socialism and the following economic economic following the and socialism of collapse The . - effect of ethno . Due to this process, Cluj had a radically changed radically a had Cluj process, this to Due . eriod between 1992 and 2004. Funar was known known was Funar 2004. and 1992 between eriod to the new socialist neighborhoods in the suburbs, 14

cialist project in a more acceptable national national acceptable more a in project cialist - demographic restructuring: large scale corners away from the the from away corners

(Brubaker et (Brubaker i nt rise not did (Petrovici CEU eTD Collection by animated longer no were workers the of city the composed had that elements diverse “The resulted socialism of narrative grand the of disappearance the that arguing it, in position their and city the about conceptualizations workers’ shaped kind this of changes ideological how explores ideologica an in workers leaving profit reorganization of production made workforce in the factories redundant, while individualist and of basis infrastructural down toned consciously been have differentiation of forms other all where system a in distinction et 2011) (Petrovici on legacy he Funar, Mayor of success electoral longstanding the behind reasons the about inquiring development: local of trajectory specific the on based Petrovici Norbert objec an as space urban of role essential walks. of thenarrative in connection to some oflandmarks these city. discusses 4 Chapter affecting the urban landscape, most importantly on the level of public fro developments spatial particular now, by disappeared have them of fences and dustbins, to colors of the Romanian flag most infamous momentum of this last practice being the repainting of street furniture, incl the city, the redecorating and past, (Romanian) rediscovering past, (Hungarian) reinterpreting the be to seems name his to connected development rememberedmost the space: public of realm the except actions, by his strong anti nc iesos of dimensions hnic - oriented logic of market economy feelingsdisplaced of collectivity and social solidarity, Vrey 96 86) 1996, (Verdery

in a collapse of socialist city in the physical space as well as in the minds of workers. of minds the in as well as space physical the in city socialist of collapse a in

pos t - . Talking about the region, Petrovici and Katherine Verdery both emphasize both Verdery Katherine and Petrovici region, the about Talking . transition worker experiences and consequently, their voting behaviors behaviors voting their consequently, and experiences worker transition - Hungarian Hungarian rhetoric that gained, fortunately, less manifestation on the level of

okn class working nationalization of urban space in Cluj by means of renaming streets, streets, renaming of means by Cluj in space urban of nationalization okr olciiis disappeared: collectivities worker . With the collapse of socialism, both the ideological and and ideological the both socialism, of collapse the With . vcu o self of vacuum l networks, networks, t of nationalist political manipulations is explained byexplained is manipulations political nationalist of t 15

run that arguing (Brubaker et al. 2006, 140) - identification (Kideckel 2008). Petrovici Petrovici 2008). (Kideckel identification e conomic restructuring and the the and restructuring conomic tnct sre a a ai of basis a as served ethnicity

discourse discourse concerning the m this period are still still are period this m the effect of socialist socialist of effect the . Although many uding uding The The CEU eTD Collection consumption, of object deploying all of the available and resources to cr simultaneously and space a becomes city the production, of heritage which makes them unique and attractive in the eyes of foreign investors. From a center values abstract on build to have cities resources, material of instead capital. Symbolic values gain a special importance in this competition for transnational capital: e of service sector. In the system of global capitalism, transnational capital becomes the main engine manifestation of the post t In capital. global of space the to process a urbanization, postmodern of case a characterized by changing economic profile of the cities and the imperative of their integration as era new this in Cluj of development Péter and Pásztor region. the in expanding forces market transnational to obstacle an presented protectionism economic since level, strategic the on and subjectivity Funa the conditions, structural workers unemployed of amount significant a absorbed that becamea central of destination transnational capit by the middle of the 2000s, especially after Romania joining the European Union in 2007, Cluj The second decade after transition has been characterized by a different economic environment: ethnic conflict and of terms to dispossession ideological and economic of experience the translated city the of reorganization spatial anddiscourse public nationalist Strong again. citythe in place their find of national symbols,providing and a narrative for Funar’s of success prolonged the nationalist politics lied in his strategy of reassembling this disintegrating space through the use him, to According 9) 2011, (Petrovici space.” social signifiers empty as suspended were but production of project national the conomic development, therefore, the neoliberal city becomes an instrument of attracting of instrument an becomes city neoliberal the therefore, development, conomic national pride. national - Fordist turn that places the emphasis from industrial production to the r type discourse lost its relevance both in the realm of worker worker of realm the in both relevance its lost discourse type r

i faeok psscait etutrn o Cu i a is Cluj of restructuring postsocialist framework, his eate a positive image about itself, a practice usually 16

al, resulting and innew new enterprises jobs working residents class that enabled them to (Petrovici 2011) (Petrovici

of cultural and historical and cultural of (2006) in an undetermined an in . Among the new new the Among .

ecie the describe CEU eTD Collection in the urban environment. local walking tours of as spatializing practices types which operate by using two the symbolic meanings on focusing city, the of users contemporary by interpreted is struggles of articulation the in object central a been always has space urban how reveals but relations, social local The above historical summary does not only delineate the main conflicts and issues determining European mu city, onits based power side to erase the legacy of Mayor Funar, and substitute it with the the image of on a effortmulticultural deliberate a describe (2006) Péter and Pásztor Cluj: of strategies development place. the about image acceptable easily and coherent a create to try authorities differences, emphasizing of instead branding: city of project the to irrelevant become Cluj, in issue ethnic the of case in as past, the of interpretations Conflicting golden imaginary an on based usually identity, local distinct a of expression an as legacy spatial on is focus the cities, of case in and phenomenon, postmodern the of feature general u of warehouse a as and production distribution of on different types of knowledge. based The past obtains special movement significance in this international context generate they as process, this in actors valu market creating of potential the have all that features values, geographical and heritage architectural diversity, cultural past, historical its on based Cluj of identity an vision documents the developments, infrastructural besides expert discourses. Their findings confirm the idea of recreating Cluj as a spa local in reflected areaspects above the how reveal theycompany) architect an bysquare main (munic city the of documents official analyzing process: rebranding this of part as decade last the in Cluj of restructuring spatial the interpret (2006) Péter and Pásztor branding. city as to referred plt dcmns tuim eeomn srtg ad h rcntuto pas f the of plans reconstruction the and strategy development tourism documents, ipality

these conflicts. The next chapters investigate how the spatial legacy of these these of legacy spatial the how investigate chapters next The conflicts. these nique symbolic meanings: nostalgia and rediscovery of past periods are a are periods past of rediscovery and nostalgia meanings: symbolic nique

lti - ethnic traditions and thehistorical center. city e. The academic and touristic scenes are crucial crucial are scenes touristic and academic The e. 17

hs edny s elce i the in reflected is tendency This ce of consumption:

cont ained ained

age. CEU eTD Collection came from similar initiatives in Budapest and other cities. Thematic tours are organized for the tours walking of idea The studies. humanity various from mainly students, are they guiding; t in volunteersparticipate who with worksassociation neighboring countryside, except Eszter who was born near Brasov, southern Transylvania. The the or Cluj from mainly nationality, Hungarian of all are They art Dóri. and other Viki department, two by joined were they tour, first their After University. their 20s, Bogi, Eszter and Zsófi, all from the Hungarian art history department in Babes in women Hungarian three by 2014 of spring the in established been has Association Korzo 3.1. idea of“postmodernizingdepicted Cluj” and by Péter. Pásztor the to relate they how on based precisely, more environment; structural broader of context the evalua and activity their behind motivations and themes main the identify I guide groups, tour of members the with conversations personal and interviews from coming data de time which operate in the Clujean social space, shaping it towards their own interests but at the same tacticalprojects as companies guiding two Ithe study tactics, and strategies of conceptualpair by authors like Pásztor and Péter companie guide tour these of emergence the what asking development, urban local of result particular a as tours walking of case the investigating by discussion the enters chapter present The place. the of trajectories future of direction possible scholars local of hypotheses on based note, similar a on ended also space urban of concept the phenomenon, Clujean of history the on discussion of my chapter; closing the in appears usually “postmodern” kind any of development historical the about Talking Korzo termined by the ruling structural forces acting in that space. Drawing on ethnographic on Drawing space. that in acting forces structural ruling the by termined

Chapter 3 (2006)

and Petrovici and Vanea .

Walking Tactics 18

he research, the administrative tasks andtasks headministrative research, the s tells about the processes delineated delineated processes the about tells s

(2010)

. Using the Certeauian itras rm the from historians te them in them te about the the about - Bolyai CEU eTD Collection and Hungarian address to goal their emphasize repeatedly members Korzo way, direct a talking when Cluj: in community the determines which cleavage ethnic and Hungarians Romanians or professionals and “average citizens”. they However, the main target of bridging is the be community, local of segments different between bridge a create wa they second, and education, historian art their from coming methodology research strict a on based credibility scientific on focus strong a have they first, Korzo: off mission The above quotes their researchresults withabroader audience: narration, the main intention with the project was to find a form that would allow them to share their to According term. long the on income of source main their it make t to intend members although model, business sustainable financially a to of kind contribute This not ticket). does theatre functioning local a of price the of half adults, for RON 12 and students only organized are tours enterprise: business a than mission cultural a as more regarded be can state present Association its in theirlocalto English primary Korzo population. language the tours, target is as it is proved by the posts on their Facebook pa plans regarding further tours. Walks are generally in Hungarian, but their aim is to be bilingual, tour introduces the important locations of the 1989 revolution in the city, and they have various numerous plans, Korzo girls chose the topic of Cinema in Cluj as the debut walk. The specific parts of thecity, based ona theme thatconnects thedifferent in stop space. From their tourist as well as locals professionals like architects have distorted knowledge about certain parts, as we we as parts, certain the about even and knowledge it, experienced.”(Bogi) distorted know have necessarily not architects do like outskirts professionals the from people local that see “We want to show the local cult professionala comprehensible form.” people(Dóri) and in popular non the with it share to wanted We oblivion. into fall and studies of pages in remain i profession “Our

a few times a month and for a relatively low price (one tour costs 8 RON for for RON 8 costs tour (one price low relatively a for and month a times few a from the members reveal the two factors that I found the most defining in the s: their general appeal lies in the fact that they introduce less known, known, less introduce they that fact the in lies appeal general their s: s full of exciting stories details, and we didn’t want those findings to findings those want didn’t we and details, stories exciting of full s

ural heritage, make it known among people, because we

19 ge. ge. Although they plan to broaden their activity

about their mission in mission their about

ir second nt to to nt he he - CEU eTD Collection the s for tool necessary a as culture constitutes status minority where community Hungarian the to the Romanian Inside. some cases, this supposedly Romanian characteristic is being contrasted a members Korzo by explained 2006) al. et Brubaker 2011; detail in others and Petrovici by described ethnicity, of interpretation a suggests that notion a groups, ethnic two the of background” cultural “different cleavage ofconcerns explanation ethnic the attending grouptarget fromother walks. Their the in cycle vicious a creating problem, this resolve to tool ultimate an as walks see members Korzo end, the In so far: by them to o deployed tacticOne audience. Romanian the amongproject their successfullypromoting from them prevents which networks, personal and institutions of level the on communities ethnic m two in interpret they which mission, this realizing in obstacles experience members Korzo Nevertheless, Transylvania. in model widespread rather a place, the of heritage cultural Hungarian with deals that project to want they suggests narration Their locals. every for significant past the of layers reveal and points common the find equally, audiences Romanian urvival ofan ethno

perfectavailable and aseasily achieve comprehensible to means (Viki this.” each know to It got we Ifpronounce! communication. of lack can the is problem main they The difference! much so that makes name a least At community. local of part Romanian the were got we all i that but volunteers, Romanian isolated so are channels communication The pronouncedly Cristina. girl, one except ones, Hungarian for looking were “We vercome this barrier is to hire Romanian members, an attempt of moderate success t happened like this. Romanian members would be so important in order to reach reach to order in important so be would members Romanian this. like happened t

which walks could decrease the isolation but the same isolation prevents the prevents isolation same the but isolation the decrease could walks which

other, if we got an opportunity to meet, a platform… Walks would be would Walks platform… a meet, to opportunity an got we if other, - national group: . The difficulty of reaching Romanian audiences is repeatedly repeatedly is audiences Romanian reaching of difficulty The . ajor ways: one of them concerns the isolation between the two the between isolation the concerns them of one ways: ajor s resulted by a general lack of need for cultural programs from from programs cultural for need of lack general a by resulted s

avoid the status of an isolated minority isolated an of status the avoid (Petrovici 2011; Faje Faje 2011; (Petrovici class )

- based based CEU eTD Collection group in a particular intersection of generation and class: these people have obtained their basic social a of marker a as interpreted be can discourses two the of presence simultaneous The theelementsrevealing, above: listed all ascontains it following The difference. cultural embrace to openness an and movement of freedom promotes states, questions nation of that validity contemporary discourse “European” progressive a with combined appears narrative this Cluj, interpreted from a Hungarian minority perspective. in discourse nationalist mainstream of influences the reflects conceptualization of kind this that argued be can it nationalism, of dynamics local on above cited literature the Considering classes ofsociety: lower the to attributed latter the consumption, material and cultural between distinction the is opinion this of expression representative most The cultured”. “less generally as Romanians s a from also but cleavage, majority/minority the by solely explained not is community Romanian the in culture of position different the However, o oehn tgte. ht hs id f ainlsi attd mks o sense no makes attitude nationalistic of thiskind!” of kind this anymore… Not Thatin the European Union, that is all about open together. borders, espe something do really small same. group of people the who can do see beyond these limits Romanians and realize of that they could lot a and others; than here be to right more have they therefore and Hungarian are they that claims huge make Hungarians “Many food stations! the around language Romanian only hear could you know, you and there, food some got we so home at eat to time have didn’t we Days, Cultural Hungarian the in “Even can you and sausage] Romanian [traditional mititei is there because course, Of apartments. Manastur [a working class suburb of Cluj with Romanian majority] and never leave their “Cluj Hungarian the together hold backgroundcan Manydon’t have they the use. background.” Romanians this of can that power events only of the amount is surprising a doing been this because also Probably inhabitants. the have within among proportion their to compared Hungarians years, 10 last the “In

it, but if they butif it, are already some program there,theyvisit might too!” - Na poca Days theonly is that event successfullyaddresses eventhose wholivein

” (Bogi)

(Bogi)

21 especially is discussion group our from quote

trong middle class bias which conceives which bias class middle trong But in the narration of Korzo members

community, their cultural cultural their community,

(Viki) cially borders It is a really, really, a is It

(Bogi)

CEU eTD Collection In elaboration ofissue,thequestion obtainsethnic this their undertones: theref local, on research the is practice this of element important an argued, they As object. research the on information authentic most scientifically the obtain to order in sources available the of investigation critical and methodology research of field the in department the of demands strict the emphasize they studies, historian art their about Talking work. their of principles within that, proves to be essential not only in their motivations but also in formulating the main style and institution educational particular a and history, art of discipline the from come all members core five the that fact The tours. the of construction the in precision methodological scienti of display public a as tour walking of conceptualization Their walk. every of foundation the constitutes that research grounded scientifically the is mission Association’s Korzo of pillar other The walking thecontras tours,discussing of level the on negotiated are discourses two the how shows chapter next The generation. and most importantly, their university education and the intellectual influences typical for their class conscious strategy to produce economic output it but arises from the s a not is Association Korzo of case in values these of Adaptation (2006). Cluj postmodern of com intercultural facilitating of mission stated Their integration. European and transnationalism of ideas by inspired Millennium, the around education higher their during challenged was th at socialization of level munication reflects the latter discourse, identified by Pásztor and Péter as a characteristic a as Péter and Pásztor by identified discourse, latter the reflects munication veryyou ifone exciting cannot themes, theend?” what but there, travel research do in avant Japanese masks, Venetian like mainly objects, research local Romani support the At they topics. Transylvanian that department the about lot a tells “It fic research in a comprehensible form explains the importance of of importance the explains form comprehensible a in research fic e time of postsocialist transition, appropriating a value system that that system value a appropriating transition, postsocialist of time e ting dynamics ofwalking dynamics ting and backstage narratives. ore easily available objects of art historic significance. historic art of objects available easily ore - an department, they write dissertations on topics on dissertations write they department, an garde fashion, Inca architecture… These are all are These architecture… Inca fashion, garde 22

, meaning the careful choice careful the meaning , ocialization of ocialization members,

CEU eTD Collection to agenda tactical individual their of part as activity their understand to able was I space, urban and history architecture, of questions about passion our sharing by project: the move formal parts of our interviews were only an aspect of their general interest in the most authentic reading of urban heritage. The less is this that suggested conversations our but accuracy, methodological of awareness members’ of role the about assumption the confirm comments of kind These history.Bogi Asformulated: regional about claim scientific any towards subjects minority ethnic the of attitude suspicious int inevitably are discipline historian art the of concerns professional where Causescu the of strategy characteristic, Romanian exclusively rewriting an being from far Although claims. these validate regimes and ethno permanentl been have parts and some significant moments of this conflict in which Transylvania as a whole and its various roots particular historiographies consideringthepast oftheregion. The previous chapter the delineated origins more has issue the education. higher However, of realm class middle the within happens it although above, described difference class termed ethnically of agenda broader the into fits unprofessional as practice d the interesting: more is distinction ethnic The objects. exotic and distant of case in fulfilled be to likely less is which condition a resources, primary from One part of such considerations reflects a typical demand of art historian methodology to work the reason that some overly nationalistic Romanians tend to make up historical historical up make to tend Romanians nationalistic overly information andtryasreality.” it topresent some that reason the the of credibility scientific the preserve project. pay We at serious to want also but entertaining be to try “We

of history in a way to support a triumphant ethno triumphant a support to way a in history of - national national communities, and historiography was a main in tool the struggle to - regime as well as of Mayor Funar, constituting a discursive space discursive a constituting Funar, Mayor of as well as regime y objected objected y

tention to nottention to tellanything a without real also for foundation, especially revealing in terms of personal motivations which to conflicting ownership conflicting to 23

in the problematic field of national national of field problematic the in - national narrative was a deliberate deliberate a was narrative national epiction of Romanian academic academic Romanian of epiction

claims by different political different by claims distorted histories in Korzo in histories distorted ertwined with the the with ertwined CEU eTD Collection symbolic creating by Cluj of postmodernization the to contribute walks Korzo production, us by movement its determines which structure modifythe agencyto individual of potential the address them of both startingpoints, appears to be parallel with the Certeauian notion of silent production: from different theoretical conc the with grasp Vanea and Petrovici which act the The in process. consumer the involving economy, symbolic the to realm material the from shifted is production words, other In consumption. of space a to production of center the from shift a accountsboth Cluj, of postmodernization the as label (2006) Péter and Pásztor that process same the to refers conceptualization This product. material the to meanings symbolic which the consum in process the on reflect to labor consumption of concept the useThey practices. consumption symbolic through other each from mainly and class, working the from themselves distinguish Vanea Alexandra and Petrovici Norbert targe development, urban markets segmented of creation the through of value economic of source the level becomes difference the at modernity; of strategies uniforming over difference operat Tactical using the urban environment as material evidence that opens up with the help of written sources. place, the about story own their tell to aim creators the Cluj, in revolution 1989 the of events meanin symbolic of container a as space urban investigate to approach comprehensive a provides but tours, the of topic the delimit not does history Art city. the in markers spatial and visual by signified ideas the to relation personal a the symbolic meanings behind them; in case of Korzo tours, scientific interes and regimes aesthetic various of legacy the explore to order in deployed is accuracy scientific appropriat ted to multiple tastes and lifestyles. Studying coffee houses in the city center of Cluj, Cluj, of center city the in houses coffee Studying lifestyles. and tastes multiple to ted e the space in which they were born or live now. In the discipline of art history, history, art of discipline the In now. live or born were they which in space the e ions like this fit into the postmodern agenda that prefers uniqueness and and uniqueness prefers that agenda postmodern the into fit this like ions er er “enacts the very use value of that it is supposed to consume” by attributing ing it according to its own ways. As a case of silent of case a As ways. own its to according it ing (2010) 24 gs. Talking about early 20 early about Talking gs.

describe how fragments of local middle class middle local of fragments how describe p o cnupin labor consumption of ept th

century cinema or or cinema century t is combined with

describing describing CEU eTD Collection sculptures palaces, like themes classical more with tours thematic have also They price. set a custo activityis the introduce their of direction to other The history. of aims periods different throughout place that the of development tour city general a is group the of product main The visitors. wa “free of scheme international the follow Tours basis. voluntarya on work who students namelyhalf,the other the to knowledge Korzo: it consists of skilled professionals who are responsible for leadership and the transfer of muc is goal, second the by influenced strongly probably group, the of structure organizational The guides. tour skilled professionally of generation new the can company educate and tourists, and locals to Cluj of heritage the the introduce to points: two in summarized of mission the organization, the from students two and professor a with conducted I interviews the on Based Geography. of Faculty the in program development ha University, a fact that reveals a lot about the difference between the two Babes projects: the association of department university another in started CGT Korzo. than way different a that clear becomes it project, the of context full the within detail in CGT of characteristics above the describing After tours. of the with affiliation strong projects formulating the urban space tactical of Cluj. The of main reason category behind original my into fit actually they whether research, the of point one at Cluj Guided Tours has a very different story than Korzo, a difference which made me concerned 3.2. spacecultural of consumption. pro cultural a as state, present its in profit economic tangible produce not does association the although value: s been established in the end of 2013 with professors and students from the tourism tourism the from students and professors with 2013 of end the in established been s Cluj ToursGuided m tours, organized according to individual needs of the group that orders it for for ordersit that group the of needs individual accordingorganizedto tours, m ject with a clear style and mission it increases the market value of Cluj as a as Cluj of value market the increases it mission and style clear a with ject

tourist industry in terms of professional background and the content the and background professional of terms industryin tourist

the case is overly relevant for my investigations, although in although investigations, my for relevant overly is case the kn tus, bsns mdl ae o tp fo the from tips on based model business a tours”, lking 25

h more hierarchical than of of than hierarchical more h

this this doubt was the group’s - Bolyai

be be CEU eTD Collection a I members: CGT of vision the in role important their equally play tour the managing in of questions practical and content contrary, significant the On narratives. so not as appear above mentioned those like issues practical visitors, scholarl between translate to way appropriate most the and content the on mainly focus tours Korzo while CGT: of mission the about telling very is statement latter The content itself. the besides context of importance the emphasized guide tour volunteer a Roxana, practice: leisure a of frames the within mediated place the about knowledge level surface a facilitate correspondence I elaborate in the next chapter. The type of Cluj of strategy development tourism 2006 in the tour show an almost perfec Nothing reflects the project’s connection with tourism better than the fact that the sites included the city, contrary to Korzo tours that focus on a particular aspect of this history in greater detail. histor of summary a provide to designed is tour The abroad. from tourism of the tours, and members often emphasize the importance of internal tourism besides incoming Cluj of inhabitants the meanI By locals with. familiar probably are locals that landmarks cultural and tour delimits its audience already with the topic, presenting some of the most important historic constitute these tours as belonging to the field to Korzo tours in detail, but for the present purposes it is important to note some features which developmental stage. The next chapter will discuss the differences of CGT approach compared them of some and frequent less much are they but city, the in families noble of

the guests.” task, she has they have, embed the history of Cluj in the broader world. The tour guide has a complex be relaxed have We and entertained. toconnect ourtopic tothe background knowledge cr to is point “The and its vicinity, as people from other regions of Romania can still be a target audience audience target a be still can Romania of regions other from people as vicinity, its and

to pay attention to timing, conflict management, and personal problems of eate an experience in the two hours of the walk: the visitors have to have visitors the walk: the of hours two the in experience an eate t convergence with the landmarks appointed as defining in the

of tourist industry. To a certain extent, the general 26 2006) Pásztor and (Péter

ttribute this factor to their professional professional their to factor this ttribute stories and the way of narration both , the details of which which of details the , ical development of development ical y research and their their and research y are still in the in still are CEU eTD Collection dep the from students twenty almost with together launched was CGT later, year one guides; tour of teaching, she thought about establishing an association that provides a platform for the training o issues practical about students Bachelor lecture to asked was she where Geography, of Faculty the in studies PhD her during training for her in the field of tourism and guiding. Her experience proved to be a precious skill activ Romania, 2000s early the in enterprise pioneer a agency, travel online own her of founder a and Greece in guide tour a as experience yearsof byadded abroad. Thiswas Romanians to for bus trips agency, organizing Satutravel Mare working a in s she studies, environmental in degree a after Geography; of Faculty the at professor a and motivations leading to the birth of CGT. Cristina is a Romanian woman in her 30s, currently with association the together with the career path of Cristina, the initiator of the project: she describes the history of understood better be can This guides. tour of training the mission, their of part second the at agenda developed in an institutional framework. prescribed The tactical ch a realizes that industry tourist of operation strategic a from project the distinguishes what obvious seem not does it CGT, of activity the of level this only Regarding explicitlyfoundation, is and relation this s direct relation to the strategic phenomenon of tourism industry due to its academic and personal more a has CGT of activity the point, starting different a with project similar a implements Associatio Korzo While education. and history culture, resources, symbolic its using by Péter (2006) identify tourism as a main tool of reproducing the city as an object of consumption postmodern urban rest a flawless user experience. The touristic dimension of CGT can be interpreted in the context of background in tourism, where content is only a part of the bigger machinery deployed to achieve artment and other universities. As it is suggested by the story of Cristina, the main main the Cristina, of story the by suggested is it As universities. other and artment in a narrative of her own professional development, revealing the themes the revealing development, professional own her of narrative a in ructuring: based on the f travel organization and tour guiding. After some years of years some After guiding. tour and organization travel f tated in the compan tated in work work of Sharon Zukin and John Urry, Pásztor 27

aracter becomes more apparent looking y’s mission. ities that provided a practical a provided that ities

tarted

and and n CEU eTD Collection thelocalwithin field ofpower: positioned is CGT how reveals Cristina from comment A members. its of efforts creative the independently operates it institutions, touristic and academic to connection has it although framework: institutional any outside works it that is CGT of feature important and dedication demands which project term long a as CGT imagines Cristina struggle, economic everyday of concerns understanding While reasons. financial for left guides the of some that is CGT experimentation: of feature this exactly bygiven is CGT of character tactical The guides. the for experimenting and learning for space a leaving tours, paid as relations demand and price usual the engender mode tour”“freewalking The learning. this schemefor a provides tour general the and profession, guiding to necessary skills all improve and learn can guides where ground training a as conceived be to have thus CGT by offered tours The knowledge. satisfying provide not does exam guide tour official the that argues Cristina mission: CGT of pra their but English, of command good a and issues present on perspective broader a have they license: guiding and does not suit requirements of the present time. The other type is young people with official s professional quality high have people These state a was tourism when times socialist the in trained those are first the level. Cristina described the state of guiding in Romania by distinguishing two types of guides: education practical of lack the and Romania, in profession guiding tour of motivations behind a training project for young tour guides have been the underdeveloped state

oeie sciie fo te ebr. eie fnnil hrceitc, h other the characteristics, financial Besides members. the from sacrifices sometimes “They have to learn how to do it

ctical skills need to be improved. People of this latter type are the target the are type latter this of People improved. be to need skills ctical not a profit a not

- making enterprise in its present form, proven by the fact the by proven form, present its in enterprise making really 28 well, and this is only possible th kills but their factual knowledge is “outdated” “outdated” is knowledge factual their but kills

l serves well this agenda, as it does notdoes agenda, it this as serveswell l - organized industry. industry. organized

of them, based on based them, of at the university university the at rough practice.”

CEU eTD Collection and entrepreneurship, bothofwhich are constitutiveelementsconsumable city. ofthe education of values the reflects it practice, through learning andvolunteering on based project foundations touristic Besides its tactics. Certeauian of definition the fulfilling it, influence to potential a institutional with but the framework of part integral an not is that actor an as CGT constitutes statement This we have And ca slowlyit here! value the understand community the let and generation, new the educate to want “We

, CGT embodies another feature of postmodern urbanism: as a a as postmodern urbanism: of anotherfeature , CGT embodies n also affectn the legislation.” 29

CEU eTD Collection 1 byCluj” asse being interpreted in the walks, and what kind of narratives do walks create about “multicultural is spaceurban of dimension ethnic the how tours: the approachedby ethnicitywayis the on is abo narratives in element defining a become ethno conflicting memory, social of field the in positions narrator’s the by influenced is process selection the and space, urban to attached meanings present and past of namely, walking tours. As my starting point is that walking narratives are s practices, spatializing actual of level the on realized is mission this how investigates chapter post the by inspired capital, symbolic its for valuable place multicultural a as Cluj of idea the promote the structural environment in which they operate. A part of my argument was that both projects walking tour projects are embedded in the urb two the how described I chapter previous the In surprise. with me took discourse everyday of the multi artwork feels unsettlingly relevant for my research: although I arrived with an in The Romania. of historiography mainstream the for invisible being read, to anything have same state, that contradict each other at every possible point: inhabitants of the same region, citizens of the textbooks video installation by Larisa David that s a is it Europe; Eastern throughout arts visual and theory critical promoting institutions art of networka Tranzit, Clujeanbranchof the in exhibition an mythereis of fieldwork, time the At

See http://ro.tranzit.org/en/exhibition/0/2015 - Ford - 1 ethnic heritage of the place, the accentuated presence of parallel histories on the level . Romanian, Hungarian and Roma people stand besides each other and read stories stories read and other each besides stand people Roma and Hungarian Romanian, .

their textbooks contain entirely except histories, different Roma people who donot mbling parts ofthe parts availablembling legacy historical indifferent ways? ist conception of cities as centers of service sector and consumption. The presentThe consumption. and service sector centersof as cities of conception ist

Chapter 4

. hows citizens of Romania reading out loud from history - Walking 03 - 26/delimitations ut Cluj. Therefore, the main focus of this chapter this of focus main the Therefore, Cluj. ut an context of Cluj, and how their mission reflects 30

Narratives , retrieved on 21 May 2015 May 21 on retrieved ,

elective recollections - national histories histories national

itial itial interest in

CEU eTD Collection been had symbolic nationalist the after long present, the until persists which tension symbolic a creating square, the in installed flag national Romanian numerous the and furniture street 2006) al. findings was a strong means of neutralizing Hungarian connotations of the square o dismantling physical the place: the of origins Roman the show to attempted excavation archaeological reinterpretation of history, the square has been objected to historical rediscovery in the form of presen to army Moldavian the by defeat Matei Corvinul, suggesting the emperor’s Romanian origins, and at the same time recalling his nationalist plaque from the 1930: it changed the neutral Latin name of the king, Mathias Rex to rei a fact in plaque, new a by added been has Mathias King of engendering from severalthe Funar attempts administration to Romanize the space. The statue square”, main “Hungarian a as it constituted sculpture) Mathias and Church Michael Saint symbols Hungariannational2: theoverwhelmingpresenceof Chapter in discussed struggles symbolic of focus the in been has it such, as and Cluj, of center historical the as specificposit is constructed in a particular manner though: knowledgethe choice of stops and their interpretations reflect a “general” This city. the of knowledge general a with them providing while Cluj has been developed throughout the cent city the of how storyabout exciting an but facts historicalheardry to going not guestsare that emphasizes She KingMathias. of equestrianstatue the of Square),front(Union in Unirii Piata guide waitin is baptism ceremony.thetour Roxana, child’s of their newborn ordered by a Romanian couple whose friends are visiting from all over Europe on the occasion tours private the of one join I members CGT of kindness the by afternoon, Saturday a On 4.1. Cluj Tours,Guided General Tour City . This ensemble of neutra of ensemble This . ion in the discourse about the place. Our starting point, Union Square is regardedis Square Union startingpoint, Our place.discoursethe the about in ion f the historical center and the permanent exhibition of the scientifically modest scientifically the of exhibition permanent the and center historical the f lizing/Romanizing measures was completed by the tricolor tricolor the by completed was measures lizing/Romanizing t a double challenge for Hungarian pride. Besides this this Besides pride. Hungarian for challenge double a t uries: uries: the point of the walk is to entertain the guests 31

nstallation of the Romanian the of nstallation g for the group on group on g for the (Brubaker et

(especially CEU eTD Collection econo and cultural of source a as described rather terms, negative in interpreted or denied not absolutely is presence Hungarian time, same the At category. latter the to belonging clearly Transylvania not, those part of this sentence indicates a clear distinction bet last The country”. their in mountains no had Hungarians mountains! And forests. the and salt gold, like resources natural the for area the to came Hungarians Romans, to “Similarly walk: na the in conceptualized and delimited is territory national way the of revealing is answer Her here?” come Anna did Why area? the to come Hungarians did “Why group, the Hungar guestfrom a place.As the in powerregimes of changesequential a of insteadnarrative master Romanian a within element an as mentioned is presence Hungarian story: the to perspective arrival of Hungarians the10 in the then area, the raiding hordes nomadic and records written no almost with age” medieval one the to similar introduced in the work narrative, historical mainstream the follows interpretation Roxana’s moder of ancestors the as Daco and nation, Romanian the of moment founding the as period Roman As it has been argued, they are markers of the Romanian nationalist narratives that consider the Funar of remnants by/for the are square organizedmain the in underground displayed walk settlement Roman the a of ruins Hungarians: in appear never would that kind the is tour the of stop first The meanings. cont a as space of interpretations different investigate to potential rich a of the conflicting symbolic landscape suggests, Union Square as a starting point of the tour has consolidat y, I become a funny learning tool to demonstrate the Hungarian story: Roxana is asking

ed by the Emil Boc administration following Mayor Funar. As this brief description description brief this As Funar. Mayor following administration Boc Emil the by ed - era excavations, most of th of most excavations, era

of Brubaker: Roman settlement is followed by long decades of the “dark mic influence in the place, and the historical foundation of the the of foundation historical the and place, the in influence mic Rmna pol (see people Romanian n th

century. thedetails However, representation of give a specific 32 em buried and a small section covered by glass. by covered section small a and buried em

ween territories assigned to Hungarians and rbkr t l 20, 89) 2006, al. et Brubaker - Roman population Roman ie o historical of ainer . The body of of body The . rrative of the the of rrative CEU eTD Collection the in s again The appears narrative. presence Romanian natural therefore and unmarked an to contrary Austro Museum in Staying of the walk it supports the idea of Cluj as a multicultural and tolerant place for several centuries. Christianity, including Lutheranism,Catholicism, Calvinism and Unitarianism, in the narrative 90) 2006, al. et (Brubaker toleration” religious of regime precocious a and religions’ ‘received four with landscape, u its with Transylvania “the left Brubaker, [reformation] to of waves According successive place. the of diversity religious about learn and structure, gothic a on constructed church baroque the at look we Square, Museum stop, following the In during togive a b trip here arrived mother whose Mathias, King about anecdotes historical of object an being for political regimes. The above connotations all remain in shadow during the tour: the house stands s public in interventions similar numerous the of one Funar, of time the at Cluj about discourse historical mainstream the fit to way a in landscape symbolic Hungarian the of element important an reappropriate to tool a is plaque origins Romanian had who king Hungarian greatest the as Mathias describing regime, Funar duringthe 1996 in installed Romanian in one and Joseph te Hungarian a with one house, the on plaques two are there surface: material its in inscribed narratives national conflicting of object Similarly to the ruins, Roman the building has a strong national symbolic value that made it an The next stop is the house where King Mathias, Hungarian ruler from the of Hungarian minority. multicultural character of Cluj, including the present period with a more or less 15% proportion - Hungarian domination”. The temporal and marked character of Hungarian period period Hungarian of character marked and temporal The domination”. Hungarian ur sil otiig enns f h mdea tw srcue s sd to used is structure town medieval the of remnants containing still quare

Square, we take a leap in time to “the period when the city was under under was city the when period “the to time in leap a take we Square, irth tohim. irth

–

although the religious to religious the although

xt placed there in 1889 after the visit of Emperor Franz Franz Emperor of visit the after 1889 in there placed xt pace by the ruling power throughout different different throughout power ruling the by pace 33

lerance of the age concerns four types of of types four concerns age the of lerance (Brubaker e (Brubaker uuly ope religious complex nusually t al. 2006) al. t

15 th

century was born. . The second The . CEU eTD Collection educational traditional a as status city’s the signify to meant is university the stops: these of conversations with Roxana and other CGT tour guides, I can draw conclusions about the Cluj” of square main “other the square, Iancu Babesincluding stops, more some contains tour usual a group, ofthenational here constraints collective totime ourwalkends Although due memory. and local the in king the characterizing trait personality the righteous”, the “Mathias of image well a tells Roxana Mathias, of personality the about guessing Our last stop turns back to the statue of King Mathias on a horse: after an interactive session of Cluj. to promote the region as a years, suggesting the guests to visit it one day. This moment reflects the broader project of CGT recent the in summer every places takes festival music electronic an where Bontida, city, the city. Besides telling stories connected to the place, Roxana t the of life cultural and financial the influenced who families noble the about hear and square the of side opposite the in Palace Banffy the to go we church the After building. the of details architectura concerns story her majorityof the but KingMathias, of baptism the startingfrom cultural importance of the church, telling that significant events of the city had been hosted here Mat the besides community the Catholicchurch is probably important themost symbolic thelocal landmark Hungarian for At this point we return to the Union Square, and look at the Saint Michael church from outside; region (Brubakeret al.2006,59) the in development economic generate to order in Transylvania in Charles Robert King by settled community Saxon the about learn we Klausen, named pub a by passing tour: du mentioned also is city the in presence German The beginning. the in expressed tour demonstrate a layer from the historical development of the city, confirming the intention of the

. tourist tourist destination besides raising awareness of the urban heritage of

is cltr ad h kn’ brhlc. oaa etos the mentions Roxana birthplace. king’s the and sculpture hias 34

Buae e a. 2006) al. et (Brubaker - Bolyai Unversity building and Avram andbuilding Unversity Bolyai ells about another castle outside of - known legend supp legend known Fo m personal my From . orting the the orting ring the ringthe content l CEU eTD Collection period. Wehave twoguides, Bogi andEtelka; asthe former th explains, Romanian first the during students Clujean of benefit the for erected 1930s the from building modernist a University, of House the besides waiting are us of few a afternoon, sunny a On 4.2. as square the of elements above architecturalandIancu landmarks,Avramas an important the about talk they guides, the of narratives personal to According War. World First the after institution Romanian a into turned was that Theatre Hu former the Opera, Romanian the 1848 by completed is ensemble spatial This revolution. the following war civil the in forces military Hungarian against fighting for known fro cathedral the 1990s, the In community. Hungarian the with associated Christianity of forms Protestant and Catholic the to contrast in affiliations religious Romanian display to period, 2006) al. balance symbolicofUnion thestrongmain square”Square toHungarian inorder t an represent to of outlook contemporary aimed the walk: the of probably narrative the in most space” “Romanian unambiguously is Square Iancu Avram tour, the of stop last The the of one progress, scientific and production knowledge creativity, on based cities, competitive on discourse broader the into fits narrative of kind This here.” come who those to present to professional skills, culture, dive education, things: of lot a means university “The Cluj: of essence the regarding ones defining most and favorite her as characteristics same the emphasized CGT of founder the Cristina, ethnicitie regions, various from study to there arrive center of the region which promotes diversity and multiculturalism on the level of students who he square is a result of subsequent attempts through the 20 throughthe attempts subsequentof result a squareis he m the 1930s was added by the statue of Avram Iancu, a Romanian national hero who is who hero national Romanian a Iancu, Avram of statue the by added was 1930s the m

constitutive discourses of“postmodernconstitutive discourses intheprevious city” chapter. discussed Korzo, Cinema in Cluj . The measures The .

included the construction of an Orthodox Cathedral in the interwar the in Cathedral Orthodox an of construction the included

rsity, science and development. This is the kind of city we want 35

s and even from different countries. countries. different from even and s

figure ofRo th

century to establish a “Romaniana century establish to manian history.manian eyusually dothetours (Brubaker et (Brubaker et

ngarian CEU eTD Collection narration the in synthesized are layers spatial Several shooting. movie a of story adventurous the hear to Somes, river of side other the on hill a Citadel, of foot the at tour the continue We oflo context broader the in topic the of details locate to help this like stories city: the in installed been had Cinema, the first “electric theatre” of Cluj that opened in 1906, one year after electricity network co A connections. Romanian of presence clear a but space, cultural Hungarian on emphasis stronger a with Bucharest, to Budapest from territory a encircle stories city: the on centeredspace the conceptualizes tour the way the reflectedin is which provides an insight into the subjective geography of the tour. The boundary historical summary of the development of cinema in the region at the beginning of 20 t road the owner’s describes that 1910s the from article an with palpable made opening, its after months nine in bankrupt went which cinema a of story the hear to square main the to arrive we Next, ethno reflecting loss, and of undertone injustice abut with negative river Somes. The event is being told as part of the general spatio near Pavilion Summer the to move to had theatre Hungarian and 1919, in Opera Romanian of ho the became building the how tell they relations ownership changing the of introduction brief a in square: Iancu Avram in theatre Hungarian second the to turns story the building, about talking After former the of place Hungarianwhole the in apparently and Cluj the in first the Theatre, Hungarian in built been had University of House revealed: is stop first our storie personal through Cluj, in cinema of summary walk give athe will thatthe short history introduction they of explain of themselves, short a After them. between responsibilities guiding and administrative the share to pairs in - cultural community. cal development. o insanity in an amusing way. Personal anecdotes are combined with a cultural a with combined are anecdotes Personal way. amusing an in insanity o

the first trouper cinematographers who screened their short movies in the in movies short their screened who cinematographers trouper first the

s and important buildings. Shortly the relevance of of relevance the Shortly buildings. important and s 36

rner away, we see the building of Apollo of building the see we away, rner the perspective of theHung of perspective the - historical development of Cluj, - speaking territory. territory. speaking status status of Cluj th

century, arian use use CEU eTD Collection art historian, and István, volunteer, a student of humanities and political science. Dóri starts the Dóri, are guides Today’s locals. are others the Hungary, from are us of two walk; Korzo other again, guests of handful a is There houses. residential with empty plots, old factory buildings, car tuning workshops, and one or two st I attend the other walk of Korzo a day after the cinema tour; instead of the other walks, this one 4.3. socio Cluj in cinema of history the than more much reveals thus walk, the after Urania of restitution of state property building in the 1990s. The story of the building, the similarly to the whole of the own still they and Argentina in live descendants whose ow same the had Apollo and Urania that tells Bogi years. last the in closed been has that We finish the tour in front of Urania Palace, another cinema from the first half of the 20 place at the standards which set thebyrecognition West, andlocal the talentsin the both herelies pride sourceof The the city. of characteristics positive the emphasizing by age golden deceased long a of image nostalgic Holly Transylvanian the as Cluj depicts narratives of kind industry. This film international the in becamecharactersdefining who Hungarianfilmmakers the starting inthe professional point of career andAlexander MichaelCurtis Korda, twoof the 20 the of of the relatively important role of Cluj as a regional center of film production in the first decades reco international earned and French in made Citadel, was film the the Also, people. Roma under poor by inhabited Row” “Gypsy disreputable the with contrast sharp in time the at area of the guides: the Clujean space stood for the arts in a less central part of the city, although still far from the real outskirts. The street is lined Korzo, Placesof the Revolution - historical processes thataffectedhistoricalcitizens. itsowners processes and the lives of local th

century. Bogi underpins this feature by mentioning that besides Budapest,besides that mentioning featureby this underpinscentury. Bogi gnition, especially in the Paris film circles, a demonstrative case case demonstrative a circles, film Paris the in especially gnition, the period andofnarration. time the period apparently alsothepresent in

Great Hungarian Plain in the movie, a prestigious 37

all Hungarian speakers, similarly to the to similarly speakers, Hungarian all od f h 11s pooig a promoting 1910s, the of wood : it talks about the broader the about talks it : - Hungarian coproduction coproduction Hungarian - storey small town

th Cluj was Cluj

century ner ner

CEU eTD Collection Korean North contemporary with comparison his Poland; or Hungary like countries neighboring the in than stricter was oppression of system the that concludes He C of horrors the depicts István it. against struggle popular of time the in form specific its and walk addresses negative aspects of socialism symbolized by this institution: political oppression evok hardly can Securitate Indeed, ethnicities. between differentiating without population whole the against directed been had terror and oppression which in system political a as light negative unambiguously in walk the pro force bridging the Ironically, walks. other of narratives whole, presents transcending aperspective categorization theethnic thatgenuinely determined a as walk the and stop particular the concerningnarrative, the of rest the conflict, ethnic about themed murals were covered by grey concrete. Although this part of the building’s history Hungarian talks but today, until preserved been have time this from reliefs Floral period. short Hungarian be the in pride national express to reshaped been had façade its manservants, educating institution an as 1939 in period Romanian first the in built regimes: political changing throughout building uneasiness. with mixed respect of feeling a Romania; the majestic building from the 1930s stands in a park behind old pine trees, inducing socialist of agency police secret the Securitate, of headquarters former the is stop first The and way this facilitatethe problematic processing rather polit ofthe different between dialogue generate themselves, events the experienced had who those with people young to connecting generations, is goal main their explain, they As country. the directed against communist leadership and contributed to the collapse of the political sys namely,yearscommemorate Romania the25 thatwas oftheanniversary 1989revolution to in el more a with walk ausescu - regime, including show trials, unlawful arrests, torturing innocent political prisoners. aborated introduction of the association and the aims of the present walk, walk, present the of aims the and association the of introduction aborated ginning of the 1940s when Cluj became Hungarian territory again for a for againbecameHungarianterritory Cluj when 1940s the of ginning e any positive connotations of the socialist system, and the and system, socialist the of connotations positive any e

The guides tell about the transformations of the of transformations the about tell guides The 38

ves to be socialism, represented in represented socialism, be to ves ical past ofRomania. ical past

Republic is aimed to aimed is Republic tem tem in

CEU eTD Collection 16 the from governor Romanian Viteazul Mihai of statue the besides square, the in 1974 in Cluj of name new the announced he when event the from Causescu of photos show they regime: atmosphere the depict to used is location the story, particular the anti an in gathered people 15000 about where area central a Square, Viteazul Mihai to go we Next they were ofSecurit members believed else everyone while act, this with “Hungarians” accused authorities communist that machinations: talking marksmen about hiding inthe windowsof thenearbyguideshouses, tell Ethnic events. the in participated who intellectuals disregarding ethnic distinctions continues with stories of Romanian and Hungarian workers and action collective of narrative The structure. the alter to come to need subjects class working place a as center city the on remains focus the but exceptional, is narration of level the on least at suburbs class working of inclusion system.The socialist annihilated the to of working peo class This way of formulation reflects a clearly middle class position: while it acknowledges the role directions: outskir the from center the to came workers how recalls Dóri 1989.. 21 on riots civil of outbreak the about learn we Astoria, Hotel stop, next the At and instead institutions ofethnic its markers. secondary or altogether invisible: the common re are identifications ethnic where group homogeneous a as constituted is power communist against fighting population the frame, this In terror. of form ultimate an as situation the depict th -

government demonstration on the second day of the revolution. Besides its relevance in relevance its Besides revolution. the of day second the on demonstration government century. The renaming of Cluj to Cluj to Cluj of renaming The century. the revolution.” starting ones the were Causescu by admired so workers that fate, of irony the is “This

ple in the struggle, it distances them by stating that they genuinely belong thestruggle,themby belong they itdistances genuinely ple in that stating

ate.

- Napoca w Napoca

ference point is the Romanian socialist regime

markers appear only at the level of power power of level the at only appear markers as part of the nationalist propaganda of of propaganda nationalist the of part as

of the Romanian communist Romanian the of t factories from four four from factories t of power where where power of st

December, CEU eTD Collection recent the express to intended is tour) CGT on discussion the (see connotations Romanian post and revolution of legacy contemporary the about talk to opportunity an as serves Square Iancu Avram stop, last The betweenethnic communities. thetwo realizes of nation and emphasizing common points in the recent history of the place, this walk of Korzo rarely appears in the discourse about the Transylvanian case. By promoting an inclusive concept This statement reflects the idea of nation unification of Transylvania with Greater Romania. 1 present the than holiday national better a be could 21 that idea the mention they and together, R that out point Guides killed. been had them of many and targets as bodies their offer to soldiers of row the to forward went intellectuals civil when revolution, the of moments dramatic most the of one depict guides square, the of progre to events the for waiting and revolution of days the in gathering been had people where parish Catholic the of front in square, main the at is stop next The history. produc a only is object the by signified narrative historical the that implies answering of way Their guides reply in an ironic tone, suggesting that the memorial is part of the “Romanian universe”. memorial to a burningnext is flame Daco the signify to intended was Cluj of place the in settlement Roman the of name the Napoca, regime: Causescu the t of local Romanian nationalism and does not belong to what they regard as official official as regard they what to belong not does and nationalism Romanian local of t part of Romanian citizens.” (Dóri) a only addresses other the while unity, national of moment real a signifies day “This

the stated mission of the association to facilitate understanding and communication communication and understanding facilitate to association the of mission stated the - - Romanian theory. At the opposite end of the square, an eternal eternal an square, the of end opposite the At theory. Romanian socialist transi socialist plaque written in Romanian; when I ask about its content, its about Iwhenask Romanian; in written plaque

based based on citizenship instead of ethnicity, a view which

tion in general: the choice of a place with strong strong with place a of choice the general: in tion of December, the memorial day of the revolution the of day memorial the December, of 40

omanians and Hungarians had been fighting fighting been had Hungarians and omanians

of December which commemorates the the commemorates which December of ss. At the other corner other the At ss. CEU eTD Collection the place can they which in context intelligible only the probably is state nation Romanian fo genre: touristic the of context the in explained be can tour the of tactic This reality. historical of field the from fairytales, of even and culture, of sphere the into it shifting by neutralized is significance historical its temporary. While Hungarian presence is fully acknowledged and represe and marked as appear histories national other which in context Romanian unmarked mostly constituted as a genuinely Romanian space. This doneis through the creation of an andoverall city the multiculturalism, of narrative master the within attention: of worthy also is groups (Roma) of the place are not mentioned in the general history. The position of represented ethnic although narrative, the ethno constitutive the of touris has the explicit goal to introduce the “multicultural Cluj” as it is conceived in local and regional mission, stated company’s the with accordance in tour, CGT The tour. the of topic particular a the on depending Cluj, of history the on construction. Focusing on the aspect of ethnicity, each of the tours offers a different perspective being used intheir is thepast how andsee walks whichto identifydirect the narrative patterns allow they nevertheless, movement; and time real through unfolding tactics the two limited, a only provide routes walking of transcriptions above The 4.4. political transitionandthe rise ofnationalism. literatur regional the from familiar view a reforms, transitional of implementation actual the over disappointment of feelings by overwritten was revolution the of solidarity promising I Avram of statue the developments of Romanian society, characterized by the rise of nationalist tendencies of which Three ofversions Cluj m strategies (Péter and Pásztor 2006) ancu is just one spatial signifier. Guides conclude by arguing that the the that arguing by conclude Guides signifier. spatial one just is ancu some of the defining communities of the past (Jewish) and present present and (Jewish) past the of communities defining the of some - cultural groups (Romanian, Hungarian and Saxon) are represented in in represented are Saxon) and Hungarian (Romanian, groups cultural

a aeae iio cmn t Rmna contemporary Romania, to coming visitor average an r udience, ethnic affiliation of the tour guides, and the the and guides, tour the of affiliation ethnic udience, . The tour fulfills that goal in a specific manner: most

- dimensional picture of of picture dimensional nted nted in a positive light,

the researcher the e on on e

is CEU eTD Collection long a reconstructs tour the conclusion, In origins. Hungarian of usually therefore, classes, the but viewers the with not deals narrative the of most classes, lower the of form entertainment an been had cinema that tour the in told is althoughit problem: class a reflect also might characters Romanian of lack The story. the in elements inclu to intended they that interviews the in emphasized guides the although community, ethnic Hungarian the to belong tour the in mentioned institutions and people dis of the “Hungarian period” of the city: at this point, my position as a majority Hungarian can be consequence natural a as appear well as might tour the of connotations Hungarian mostly the trac discovering of practice subversive a as tour the constitutes inevitably feature This past. Hungarian the for nostalgia a from separate to difficult is that feeling a nostalgia, of atmosphere an with tour the provide time” “Hungarian imaginary and tour, as it covers the period when Cluj was part of the Hungarian s the of perspective ethnic the determines timeframe The century. the of part first the with deals 20 century, early the from starting period the addresses tour cinema the history: of parts specific more on focus tours Korzo period, long year 2000 a covers CGT of tour general the While a going fairytalehis ethnicity. hero of debates instead into over a means of avoiding any possible conflicts, as in the case of King Mathias who is reinvented as 2006) Pásztor erase conflicting histories and create an attractive and unambiguous product th from to industry tourism of interests general the reflects statement This way.” pleasant a conf local in history they hear. As Roxana formulated in a private discussion: “The visitors are not interested torting in perceiving the significance of ethnic dimension for a local visitor. Most of the of Most visitor. local a for dimension ethnic of significance the perceiving in torting

the beginnings of film production, to the present time, but the major part of the material licts or the personal opinion of the tour guide, but want to learn about the place in placein the about learn to want guide,but tour the of opinion personal the or licts . The transmission of neuralgic points of history into the realm of fantasy is also fantasyis of realm the historyinto of neuralgicpoints of transmission The . es of the Hungarian Cluj in the present Romanian city. However, However, city. Romanian present the in Cluj Hungarian the of es (Péter and Pásztor 2006) Pásztor and (Péter 42

creators who had been of the higher higher the of been had who creators . The period and the topic together topic the and period The .

tate, tate, constituting it as a distant e city de Romanian Romanian de (Péter and and (Péter th

CEU eTD Collection space “acceptable” space andofmulti the challenged on the backstage level by the very clear distinction between a nationalist Romanian society Romanian contemporary of inability the and postsocialism, in conflict nationalist of rise the revolution, the of afterlife the discussing collectivity, this of nature temporary the emphasizes nar history.Theof moment exceptional an in goal common a by together taken collective strong but heterogeneous a as represented are intellectuals and workers Romanians, and Hungarians Cluj. of narrative historical the to unique in its aim to include the outskirts, and therefore the wor the narrative approaches not only ethnicity but class and their spatial manifestations: the tour is of com of becomes ethnicity representatives against solidarity popular and locality of factors besides importance secondary revolution, 1989 of story the In population. local the of conceives and institutional the ideological stat frameworkthis of and Romania, of Republic Socialist the of part was Cluj when time a with dealstour revolution the statehood, Hungarian of time the addresses tour cinema While bu walk, the by discussed period time the from partly The revolution tour offers a completely different perspective: as in the cinema tour, this follows socio c figures, romantic other and actresses Hungarian disappeared, - historical factors behind this scenery.historical this factorsbehind munist munist power. Solidarity as an overarching basis of identification is reflected in the way

o rcs te oils ps. lo te nfig oe o te ufc nraie are narrative surface the of tones unifying the Also, past. socialist the process to - related Cluj populated by insane cinema directors, heartbroken heartbroken directors, cinema insane by populated Cluj related

e prove tobeessential for thetour and topic ofthe theway it reating a nostalgic image of the city while exploring the exploring while city the of image nostalgic a reating rative does not become naively optimistic though, as itas though, optimistic becomenaively not does rative - ethnic cohabitationethnic delineated in

t not as not t king king class part of the population a necessary consequence of it. it. of consequence necessary a the walk.

CEU eTD Collection postsocialist of stronghold nationalist backward, a of instead development economic and of place a as recreated is Cluj of image the which in process the of part ethno of discourse raised that Romania of integration European flows coming from that direction. As Petrovici to fit into the “enlight endeavor the reflects multiculturalism and diversity mobility, international of values promote pr creators’ the from arising enterprise educational background cultural in the field of humanities, Cluj Guided Tours is a deliberately touristic primarily a is Korzo while projects: two entrepreneurshipindividual up initiatives without a direct dependence on power institutions, realizing the neoliberal idea of bottom as Korzo and Tours Guided Cluj pictures Ethnographicdescription context. structural re also level deeper a on projects tour walking exploring Certeau determined asoperations power individual bystructure the aim whichtosubvert: they by imposed regimes t opposed as imaginaries, collective and personal particular to belonging space, new a up open routes walking character: in tactical and subversive as appears ways own their e the sight, spatio complex this by determined positions individual the of some and city’s present acute about the I impression an history, obtained turbulent a in the course of Exploring 2010s. of middle the in Napoca Cluj of city the about story emblematic still but specific, a tells also tours walking urban of operations tactical of form essential an as city the in walking described Certeau De oject resulting from the initiators’ background in tourism industry. Their industry. tourism in background initiators’ the from resulting oject mergence of alternative walking tours as projects intended to reinvent the city in city the reinvent to intended projects as tours walking alternative of mergence - nationalism and xenophobia; the activity of tour guide companies is also is companies guide tour of activity the xenophobia; and nationalism sequential sequential ened” and “European” world, . The mission similar is realizedframeworks different inthe intwo representatives of power. However, tactics are described by de de by aredescribed tactics power.However, representativesof Conclusion

the way individuals act within a structure produced produced structure a within act individuals waythe 44 h edt eradicate to need the (2011)

ultimately, the

argues, this standpoint emerged with the

veals their embeddedness in the local the in embeddedness their veals world world of transnational capital

- the previous mainstream mainstream previous the temporal matrix. At first At matrix. temporal cultural

stated mission to to mission stated

significance o the urban urban the o –

the case case the - -

CEU eTD Collection of moment particular a in group history and urban space, together with the contradictions arising from the experience of a social space. self of level a reflects city the about narrative personal their but society, groupsof different between communication of points entry potential on focusing by city the about message progressive rather a formulate but place, the of narrative touristic perceptible easily and simplified a provide to motivation the from The stops. the between discussion backstage the or subtext narrative of level the on either space, every tour implies a very clear rec the from points reference common on aim to depict a multicultural Cluj, either by idealizing its multi multiculturalism is shows the main organizing power behind each of the narratives: walks tours consciously walking of Investigation memories. of lens social the diverging through filtered are history extent, some to and, space how of study resources objective to opportunity great a provide narratives Walking ties. territorial and kinship in the social memory, kinship or locality; I regard the contradicting ethno sh horizon common wa the within discourses parallel of dynamic a creating practices, spatializing actual influences place the of landscape memory complicated the how reveals narratives walking of analysis detailed A determination. level the on it explicating character, tactical their about assumption the reinforces companies guide tour of interpretation This Europe. Eastern CGT t CGT hs itr sos h complexity the shows picture This our conceives Cluj within the frames of a historical Romanian statehood, mainly statehood, Romanian historical a of frames the within Cluj conceives our sn pnl o te 20 the of panels using ared by a collective whose members are related in a direct way, through through way, direct a in related are members whose collective a by ared

based based on an alleged relation to a given ethnic community defin - distantiation from ethnic Romanian Romanian ethnic from distantiation k. ae’ cnet f oil memory social of concept Casey’s lks. position position regarding the structural change. structural th

etr Rmna ntoait discourse. nationalist Romanian century ent past (Korzo, revolution tour). At the same time, time, same the At tour). revolution (Korzo, past ent of factors which influence individual relation to to relation individual influence which factors of 45

- national historie of individual action and also of structural of also and action individual of particular composi The case of urban walking tours in Cluj in tours walking urban of case The or working class attitudes towards towards attitudes class working or - ethnic history (CGT) or building s of Cluj as a form of clash Csy 2004) (Casey tion tion of that multi ht h dsore of discourse the that

Korzo describes a a describes ed by both - ethnic tours CEU eTD Collection city might not inways thatindividuals while memory, social revealing the process through which it becomes a means of structural of forces which reinvent the aspect determining a as ethnicity of significance the reinforces

even

conceive 46

at the moment oft he walk.he

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